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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/09/2023 in all areas
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4 points
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That’s right unless you set up and access acct for fuel purchases only. So far we have been very pleased with Open Roads fleet card. No interest charges like a traditional revolving C/C and the fuel is paid for is at point of sale at the pump, not borrowed and billed. With the range on our diesel TV it works out pretty well. Patriot🇺🇸3 points
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@Steph and Dud B Probably, but I didn’t want another credit card and I prefer just loading gift cards into my Amazon account so anything I buy is paid immediately.3 points
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CRM - Thanks for trying to keep it "original" And, thanks for "caring". Bill2 points
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Hey Brian, nice use of your vertical real estate. I was a production supervisor for a few years at Rohn Towers in Frankfort Indiana. We manufactured thousands of masts similar and of course much larger as well. Seems like a fun hobby and community to be a part of .2 points
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Was it broken down into parts and labor? It actually sounds about right for a commercial installation. My private labor hours were literally countless. There is a lot of labor involved in getting the old unit out (door frame removal) plus hazmat disposal fee. I bet Oliver would cut out all the old structure and epoxy in place a new fiberglass frame and face piece. My parts alone (retail prices) were about $2200. It is a really big job. I would not attempt it again, but mine has been stellar. John Davies Spokane WA2 points
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I haven’t found a wiring diagram for 2020 and newer LE2's. Are there any volunteers that would be willing to do some exploratory sleuthing. I would like to see a picture or diagram of the porch light switch wiring so we can determine if the lights are wired in series or parallel. You can gain access to the switch wiring by removing the round inspection hatch cover located is in the upper storage cabinet above the microwave. There are a lot of wires behind that cover and it’s hard to determine what’s what visually. The switches are a friction fit in the switch panel, so if I am going to work on a specific switch I usually just push that switch out so the switch is hanging by the wires in the entryway. The switch wiring is usually 12V positive and are of varying colors. The 12V negative wires are typically yellow. The pictures below or for reference only and are some what specific to my Ollie only. Mossey2 points
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Saw this and thought it may be worthy to pass forward. https://www.foxnews.com/tech/new-malicious-malware-specifically-targeting-iphones Patriot🇺🇸2 points
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I'd actually really like those to make a comeback. Great in rainy weather... I know they're not so aerodynamic, but I love the smell of rain, just don't enjoy getting wet with the window partway down.2 points
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Oh, I missed that it was an insert! I thought you guys were having the inside machined out. Thanks for the clarification. I'd be pushing load limit with the bikes we're looking at: 47 pound 1Up rack 56 pound bike A 53 pound bike B 156 pound total Kent Harriss created a custom mount for his 1Up, but I can't find the photos I saw a while back. I've messaged him on Facebook for some photos.2 points
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1Up USA also sells the optional license plate relocation kit which I also installed. This allows for our license plate to be legally visible when we cover our bikes during travel. The XXL Yard Stash covers work great in keeping our bikes clean and dry. We have driven through some strong rain storms and they get the job done.2 points
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@Ollie-HausThanks Chris, it is a good hobby and I get to take it on the road with me when we go camping. Brian1 point
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Yes, that's our friend, Pete/ aka Bugeyedriver. Scroll to the end:1 point
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After a few situations that forced me to do a deeper dive into our Oliver electrical systems, I'm learning rule #1 is "TRUST your Progressive Industries EMS!" I have on 2 or three occasions, when the inverter just isn't coming on "like usual"... and stumbling around trying to find which of my three Oliver manuals has the list of error codes for the EMS... I've decided to type it up and post it right next to the EMS read out (in my 2022, it's in the rear storage bin on the right). Having those Error Codes, along with their definitions conveniently available... can go a long ways to discovering the root of the problem and fixing it quickly. If you like, I've attached the List of Error Codes and their meaning on a Word file below. It's typed exactly as the Progressive Industries owners manual says it. Maybe someone else will find it handy? Error Codes .docx BUT WAIT! There is more! If you act now... I will include the steps you need to take if you accidentally put your Truma On Demand water heater into "clean mode". These steps are found no where in the Truma owners manual provided by Oliver... and were supplied to me by someone whose name I have lost... but in a remote campground in Vermont... they saved us from taking cold showers for the remainder of our trip! accidently put the Truma into Cleaning Mode.docx1 point
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Update with some help for those in the East that are facing hazardous smoke concentrations for the first time. As Toxic Wildfire Smoke Lingers, Americans Are Turning to DIY Air Purifiers https://www.grainger.com/know-how/equipment-information/kh-what-is-merv-rating-air-filter-rating-chart I use MERV 12 filters in my central HVAC system at home (and also in the Ollie). I run the home fan continuously when air quality is bad and in allergy season and replace the filter bimonthly. Nordic Pure online filters home page at Amazon John Davies Spokane WA1 point
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If anyone builds something similar or adds to what you see, please share your ideas!1 point
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If you use Amazon a lot, would you get a better return if you used an Amazon Visa for your Amazon purchases? They give 5% back on Amazon purchases (including Whole Foods) and 2% back on gas purchases.1 point
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Steve, If this works for you I say go for it. There are many iterations of this mod. I would just insulate the bottom of the steel reducing sleve where it contacts aluminum to try and preempt galvanic corrosion. Naturally being steel it is subject to rust. Not something I wanted to deal with. I opted to have a local fab shop just pop the center out of the stock aluminum sleeve and it was no charge. It took them maybe 5 min with a giant press. Zero issues with many miles on the 1Up bike rack. Patriot🇺🇸1 point
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Brian - three bolts, all with their own washers and nuts. I drilled up through the fiberglass, then through the bottom of the box. I had the box clamped to the tongue. The hardware is stainless steel with neoprene washers on the aluminum. Mike1 point
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The trip that we just returned from last night was a month long road test to make sure that the box was weatherproof before I put the generator in. So as requested, I put the generator in the box this morning. The nylon strap that KSH supplied seems more than sufficient to hold the generator solidly in place. The original strap anchors that were welded inside the box may not have been sufficiently strong enough to hold the generator. I removed them because they were in the way of using the original Oliver supplied basket anchoring u bolts. If I were to buy this box again, I’d ask that the welded in strap anchors not be used. There is enough space for my extension cords and rope lights (pack rat deterrent) as well. I draped a piece of indoor/outdoor carpet over the generator to prevent any damage from the cords, etc. I’m very pleased with the results! The extra plus is that the generator box is about six inches narrower (front to back) and eight inches total narrower (side to side). This gives me a little tighter turning radius and a little less worry while backing up. I’m also saving about 15-18 pounds on the tongue. I would have liked to use a “store bought” triangular shaped aluminum tongue box but I never could find one of reasonable size that my generator could fit into.1 point
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Well, we were able to find a site at Lake Guntersville next May 15-19. Hope that's right...1 point
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Thanks @topgun2! I had just posted a simple video and linked it on the Oliver Owners Facebook page. I'm still getting people saying they didn't know about cleaning both tracks in the windows. There's always something to learn, just gotta come across the right subject at the right time, for sure. Hopefully I did okay with the video and didn't steer anyone too far off course. Chris1 point
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Well - that certainly clears it up!😜1 point
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John, I have not used any other cover except this one. So I have nothing to compare it to. It came highly recommended by a cyclist friend and after checking out the reviews I actually purchased (2). I thought I was going to double cover the bikes and and figured out I could but did not need to. So now I keep one as a spare. The online reviews also are pretty solid. So far this cover really helps keep our bikes clean and dry and protects them from UV and prying eyes. The cargo net works good at keeping the cover from billowing while under way. The down side with the elastic cargo netting is a PIA to untangle when you initially remove it. If you decide to order it you will see what I mean. That said, it serves the purpose intended for. So whenever I cover the bikes with the yard stash cover the cargo netting follows. So far this combination has worked very well. Naturally if you’re only covering one bike an XL Yard Stash cover may work depending on your bike size. Nice Ebike by the way! Patriot🇺🇸1 point
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I found that cover, after using it do you recommend it over another brand? https://www.amazon.com/YardStash-Bicycle-Cover-Bikes-Trikes/dp/B07RV63ZY3?th=1&psc=1 What stretchy net do you use? I normally don’t cover my ebike since we camp in dry climates, but we are headed to the Oregon coast in a month…. I would like to have the ability to cover it when we encounter soaked roads while towing… Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA1 point
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I have a couple of 1-Up Super Duty racks, they are lovely indeed, but like the Kuat racks, the tire braces are all that hold the bikes on. If a tire deflates unexpectedly things might get ugly. I strap down the rims to the trays and also add stout side support straps on longer trips. John Davies Spokane WA1 point
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Several years ago, I visited a fabricator Talmage, NM and he created a strong 2" aluminum receiver for my eBike. Rob designed and created an elegant hitch which allows enough space for the bumper to fold down, with significant structural hardening where it fastens to The Wonder Egg's frame. It holds the 1UP rack close enough to eliminate a large armature and far enough to keep the bike off the trailer. Was it expensive? Yes, and in this instance I got what I paid for and am very pleased. This was a number of years ago. You could contact Rob at 8 0 one, six 3 three, 4 two seven 7 and see if he still offers this service and inquire about current pricing. He is often away from the shop on jobs, so scheduling the job ahead of time is important.1 point
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I am not an engineer, but your comments make perfect sense and it would seem that it's not a good idea. We had a bike rack fail. Lucky for us it was 1/4 mile from home after a 4000+ mile trip. We were going slow so no damage to cars behind us. I want an over engineered rack and want to error on the side of caution. John1 point
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Vic: From an Engineer's perspective, the ultra long moment arm of the assembly loaded with two heavy E-Bikes gives me concern for even good highway use. However, with the G-Forces induced by rough roads, and worse if taken off-road, my concern rises to grave. Under such conditions, be advised that: Due to the moment arm length and heavy load, that it would be prudent to counter balanced (by additional front of trailer loads) to somewhat restore your Ollie's great antisway characteristics somewhat. There is a significant potential for your added hitch, and/or the OTT components supporting it to unexpectently fail. I highly recommend your shortening the moment arm to a minimum and reduce the load if possible. As pictured this design IMHO is an accident looking and waiting for the worst possible opportunity to fail. GJ1 point
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A reducing hitch adapter also reduces the max cargo load for the rack by 50%. This is a very bad idea on the back of a trailer, but OK on a car if it has plenty of reserve tongue weight capacity. Plus an adapter will add even more slop in your connection. Also those Maxx Haul carriers are screwed together, do you really think it has a 500 pound capacity? Look for a fully welded rack like a Pakmule or Northbound. It will cost up to ten times as much, for a reason, it won’t fall apart at 60 mph… John Davies Spokane WA1 point
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While I love GPS for travel day I always pull out the Atlas to plan routes I’ve never been on before. I like to see route on the map and know my options. Funny to hear actual maps are a thing again.1 point
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There a number of owners that use the nocked out receiver (including me) with thousands of miles carrying their bicycles. I have yet to read about any failures of using the knocked out receiver. I took it a step further and called and spoke to Oliver Service and was told they have not had any bike rack failures reported. Based on this information and talking with other owners and having 4000 miles using this hitch mod, I am not overly concerned about a failure. With periodic inspections, I have not observed any wear and tear that would cause me to discontinue using the Oliver 2” receiver. Naturally one has to proceed with what one is comfortable and their risk tolerance level is when it comes to securing your bikes. We cover our bikes when traveling and our rear Ollie lights are still very visible. We have also added the 1Up license plate bracket holder. We really like the 1Up bike rack with is certified for use on a TT. Travel safe and 🚲Bike On! 😊1 point
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Might be. From an engineering standpoint it is a very bad idea…. The factory design has 0.5” wall thickness. 1/4” wall thickness is inadequate, especially if you install a 1-Up rack which uses an internal steel ball as a rocker stopper. That will eventually wreck the aluminum. If an owner insists on using a knocked out receiver, please, always add a stout cable lock around the bikes and crossbar, in case it all departs unexpectedly. It is easy to bolt on a steel receiver so there are no worries. John Davies Spokane WA1 point
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I would like to say here that Oliver will probably not be much help on a 2" receiver as there hitch 1 1/4" was designed for certain amount of weight and going to a 2" receiver is going to let owners overload there designed hitch assembly. Plus I see in many of the pics that many extend there assembly by some two plus feet beyond the hitch assembly, I would think this would put much more stress on the assembly then Oliver designed it for. I see no problem with a 2" receiver, but you still have to control your weight and what you are doing. trainman1 point
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We applied eze rv gutter to the third tail light, as well, recently.1 point
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