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I replaced the manual valves with electric ones because I got tired of having to change the valves…twice every time we added water. I flip a switch one way and all the valves move to Aux Fill. Flip it back and they return to normal operation again.

Episode 2:

I'm keeping a video diary of my travels in the Oliver. This first episode is my trip to Hohenwald to pickup the Oliver and the first few days camping in it.

Why couldn’t a group of owners approach Southco with the same idea. It would be more likely to happen in a more timely manner.

How many boxes do you figure you can get in there? 🤣

Latest technology. No ac power required. No generator. 😅😅😅 Sheets should smell like sunshine, tonight.

This article is in the latest edition of Camper Report & was an eye opener for me. Living in muggy Florida my entire life, & fortunately during all our travels, I have never experienced a true dust storm. A few other subtropical friends were also unaware of some of the tips in this article so I thought it worthy of sharing. Many of the tips are common sense but this one surprised me: "The National Weather Service has a protocol for people who are on the road when a dust storm arrives. They advise drivers to, “pull your vehicle off the pavement as far as possible, stop, turn off lights, set the emergency brake, take your foot off of the brake pedal to be sure the tail lights are not illuminated.” It might sound counterintuitive to turn off your lights because usually, you want people to know where you are. But in a low-visibility situation, it’s best to turn off your lights once you pull off the road. This prevents other drivers from seeing your lights and veering off the road to follow you." That led me to research other low/zero visibility situations on the NWS website. They recommend doing the same in zero visibility fog with the exception to leave hazard lights on. "If there is no parking lot or driveway to pull into, pull your vehicle off to the side of the road as far as possible. Once you come to a stop, turn off all lights except your hazard flashing lights, set the emergency brake, and take your foot off of the brake pedal to be sure the tail lights are not illuminated so that other drivers don't mistakenly run into you." My instinct would be, if the locals are getting off the road, I will too; otherwise, I'll keep going--slowly. I'd love to get feedback from you desert creatures who have experienced dust storms. Thanks! Chris

I tracked down an older post and some notes I had made on this when I was shopping for a more secure replacement latch in 2020. I remember trying to order the latch on Southco and the only option was "request a quote" - which I did and never heard back. Just checked again and it's still the same message: https://southco.com/en_us_int/m1-20-91-78. I also had found this site that offered Southco latches that also led to a dead end in 2020: http://www.uglyfishinc.com/southco-m1-deck-hatch-marine-enclosure-latches-p/m1-2x-xx-x8.htm. I just tried it again and ended up with a locking compression latch with part number M1-20-91-78 (as @rich.devcorrectly identified earlier). I was able to place an order for a pair of them so I'll see what happens and update this thread if I hear back or actually get the latches. The price is $64 for the compression latch and $20 extra or the lock/key ($84 total for each latch). Maybe it will work this time because 2020 was challenging for everyone and all businesses to say the least.

This may be worth a try although I suspect it may take a company like Oliver with some large orders to actually get Southco to respond. I actually tried to order one of the "Style 9" locks directly from Southco (off of their website) a few years ago right after we took delivery of our Ollie in 11/20. I placed the order and they never charged my credit card and never sent me the new lock. I tried to contact them a few times without success and just gave up because I had so many other things I was working on with the new trailer. It was probably a case of not enough paying customers to make the style 9 lock profitable. Count me in - I'm still in the market to replace the cheaper locks.

We’ll, that will eliminate your issue of the air conditioner and the microwave not being able to run at the same time on your 2000 watt generator.

Sounds like good sleeping weather.

We're looking at being able to get 10 bottles in the void including a wooden rack.... Will post up the project when we get down to that line item on the "project" checklist, HA!

We had 44 last night outside of Steamboat Springs. Got up to 80 this afternoon. Mike

What is your valve configuration? You need to pump the water in. Imo. Gravity feed doesn't work, at least for us.

This seemed the easy low-cost route. I thought it would gravity feed to the fresh-water inlet. Didn't work, there must be a back-flow preventer or something requiring pressure to fill. I have an extra 12V water pump from the Class-A we used to own. Thinking I can mount that in the truck bed and pump into the fresh inlet, not having to worry about the switches for the winterizing inlet. Longtime customer of TSC! Norwesco 35 gal. SKU# 2137324 Horizontal Leg Tank $169.99

Yeah, @ScubaRx, The neutral ground plug is essential. I think activestart actually includes that, too, with the dogbone, in their kits. That was an unfortunate side conversation with me and max burner, sort of off topic. The neutral ground plug, as we know, fixes the floating ground issue of most portable generators. the activestart that @Patriot initially posted purports to supply the function of a soft start, but for the whole line in, not just at the ac. Allowing easier "ramp up", or adding in power, like a power auto former, but how it works its hoodoo magic, I'm not sure. Activestart markets their device as an alternative to soft start. I guess you or I could drill down a bit more? If the activestart actually works, it could be possibly a good solution for those who don't have a soft start, don't know how to install one, or don't want to void the warranty on a new ac, and/or don't want to get on the roof... $485 is much less expensive than an er visit. (If the thing performs.) But, it's expensive, and, as I said before, I've read it may cause issues with hybrid inverters like the victron multiplus. I'd value your opinion if you have time to look at the activestart.

These are the bomb! Scraping off excess "anything" on gelcoat - a "must have" for anyone owning an Oliver, Casita, CT-22, or a sailboat, IMO.

I love it. Here’s mine

View from rear of our trailer at the Crescent Lake RV Park near Robert’s Arm. It’s a very nice private park with the best showers I’ve seen. The Hazelnut Hill hiking trail goes around the Crescent lake approximately 6 miles for the entire loop. It’s very well maintained with lots of signs, benches and viewing spots.

Update, I don't have Rodney Lomax's direct email so I emailed (see below) support with request to forward it to Rodney. I almost immediately received a response from Jason Essary (I'm impressed)...."I have forwarded this to Rodney. This is something I have brought up in the past and I know it is on engineering's list of items to look at but it hasn't made its way to the top of the list yet" I really appreciate the quick response from Jason, and even if we don't get the keyed version of the Southco lock from Oliver, sounds like at least we are paving the way for future Oliver owners! I will update this thread as I receive info from Rodney. Like I said, I'm pretty new to Oliver, so if someone on this thread has a good connection/relationship with Rodney please feel free to chip in. My email to support....... We have a 2023 LEII with "Lithium Platinum Package". I never realised how easy it would be for someone to break-in and steal these high value batteries, until I read a post on the Oliver forum that the battery and basement door, with Southco latch and stamped key part# M1-545-4 are commonly used in the boat industry (some RVs) and these stamped keys are all the same! As I think about the security and how the 640amp Lithium batteries are probably the most expensive “portable” items of my Oliver, also the easy access to the interior through the basement concerns me. I would be much more comfortable If I could replace these 2 stock/OEM locks with more secure locks. I looked at the Southco website and found that more secure latches are available. Notice the cut-key “lock style 9” (on right), vs the stock/OEM stamped key “lock style 8”. Stock “lock style 8” with stamped key “Lock style 9” with cut key Wondering if a large number of forum members approach Oliver with a collective request to upgrade the battery compartment and basement compression latches, would Oliver be open to sourcing these more secure latches (lock style 9 with cut key) from Southco and offer them to the members? Here’s the spec sheet of the Southco style 8 and 9 locks, from what I could figure out we need part# M1-20-91-78 20 = 2” hole dia. 9 = cut key 1 = 0.25” door thickness 7 = Long cam, offset reversed

Ok... I love these forums! Nothing like great ideas shared by a group of common minded OTT owners. I'm thinking I stole this one from a comment that @SeaDawg mentioned a while back regarding his "LED-lit" Shower Fan. Well, Diane read his post and thought it would be a good upgrade - so, the new MAXXAIR w/LED unit arrived yesterday via Amazon (Happy Wife - Happy Life category). This would be the short story of its installation... First off, the original VANAIR Ventline fan assembly operated perfectly - no leaks, no bearing wobble, smooth actuation, but alas, no LED. It's the exact unit we had in our previous SOBs. BTW: Its up for grabs - a "freebee", I'll cover any CONUS shipping costs for anyone needing a Ventline. There was major brain cramping involved to plot-out a list of instructions for the R&R drill, especially the Removal phase. The first "R" was straight forward - using a plastic "razor" scrapper to remove the butyl tape from the gelcoat. Cleaned gelcoat with a fresh microfiber cloth doused with an ounce of rubbing alcohol. 2. Filled original mounting holes with clear silicone, they will be further sealed with the butyl tape attached to the new fan housing. 3. Cut-to-fit the included plastic sleeve that fits between the top flange and bottom (shower side) trim piece. Applied clear silicone around circumference of plastic sleeve and upper gelcoat. BTW - the OTT factory fan hole was exactly the correct diameter - no additional cutting was needed (WHEW!). 4. Mounted new assembly up top, carefully pre-drilled/chamfered 8 new holes in exterior gelcoat. Lightly torqued-in stainless screws enough to "push" butyl tape out from flange. Trimmed tape and applied clear silicone around perimeter of flange. 5. Rain guard: The new unit included a "rain-guard" which may be helpful if operating the fan in a heavy downpour. Applied butyl tape on the RG flange and carefully pre-drilled/chamfered 6 new holes for the RG. Trimmed tape after torquing screws in and then applied clear silicone around perimeter of RG. Attached fan cap with the provided 2 white screws. 6. Applied clear silicone to the trim piece groove where plastic sleeve seats. Carefully pre-drilled/chamfered 4 new holes for the trim. Connected 12vDC power to fan motor and LED - used solder and heat-shrink for connections. Tucked wires inside trim piece and mounted it with 4 screws. 7. Unlike the Ventline unit, the MAXXAIR has a locking mechanism when depressed allows the fan lid to open/raise. Its raises/lowers smoothly. Fan and LED each have separate switches. And as, I believe, @Patriot has recently said, "Let there be light!" One and done... Happy Wife.

Our first 3 nights were at Grand Codroy campground, 30 minutes north of the Channel-Port aux Basques ferry terminal. The campground overlooks a large meandering river. We found it to be very peaceful and well maintained. A short drive from the campground is the most westerly point on the island. The next 3 nights we are at Sandbanks Provincial Park on the southern shore of Newfoundland. It’s a four hour drive from our previous campsite, where you perfect your pothole avoidance techniques. There are beautiful sandy beaches a fairly short walk from the campground. We are heading north from here, to Blow Me Down Provincial Park.

If you don't have luck with southco, or truly want something immediately, you might try calling one of the bigger marine hardware distributors like jamestown distributors or boat outfitters. We've bought some quality items from jamestown, and their pricing is decent.

On I-10 in AZ and NM they post what to do in a dust storm, same as above.

I've installed these fans too, but don't remember how long the machine screws were. I think you can look at the back of the speakers and can see approximately how thick the fiberglass is in this area. You can get to the speakers when you remover the access panels in the attic. You'll have to do that for the job anyway.

Right On, Brother! Not an issue of running them at the same time with a 2kw GENSET - that's purely electrical engineering/physics, it's more of an issue of not enough wine bottle storage! HA... Cheers!

Thanks! I'm still learning, but it's fun to do!

I'm confused. You do realize that without the neutral-ground bonding plug installed, neither of these can run since there will be NO generator supplied 120V getting past the EMS in your trailer? The plug does not change the amount of current coming in, but allows the EMS to accept the electricity in a configuration that it expects and will accept. The microwave and air conditioner are never going to run at the same time off a 2000 watt generator no matter what you add. I've never tried, but I doubt they would run together with my Yamaha 3000 watt.

This is a great subject. I never thought about how long the AC would run just on lithium. It kind of changed my mind about cost for lithium vs AGM. My wife and I do not have a Oliver yet. We have a Casita and we have been talking about upgrading. We carry a propane 2000 watt generator. It runs 16 hours. Our AC has a soft start so no issues running. We live on the east coast and very rarely need the Generator. We spent one summer on the road in 2020. We plan to head to Alaska and Canada one summer. Would love to have a Oliver by then.

And, in the same flight, lost the "big bopper." We all know this song, too. Happy National Rock n Rolll day.

And, on the same flight was this huge talent. We all know this song. It was his version of a folk song, ticked up to rock n Roll. Rip, Richie.

69F, sunny, no wind - Marina del Ray, CA..... NICE!

Good job.

Ok so from what I could figure out we need part# M1-20-91-78 20 = 2” hole dia. 9 = cut key 1 = 0.25” door thickness 7 = Long cam, offset reversed Can someone check and verify the part#, I’m very new to Oliver and contacts in Hohenwald, but once we have confirmed the part# I don’t mind sending an email to support. Pretty sure Oliver should be able to confirm the part# we need to replace the latch with “1910” stamped suitcase key with the cut key latch.

I'm pretty sure it exists because neither the fiberglass floor nor the vinyl flooring itself are porous materials. The adhesive really has no place to absorb into like it does with the typical concrete or plywood underlayment and some of that adhesive near the outside edge finds its way out before curing. I replaced mine over a year ago and still get a couple of spots now and then.

Thanks for the great DIY write-up Max Burner, this will help immensely! We will be doing the same procedure with the Maxxfan LED model, after our Ventline sucked the flimsy foam gasket into the fan blades. The plastic film backing on that gasket had lost its adhesion, wrapped around the fan spindle, and bound up the motor. Just the excuse I needed to do this upgrade!

Thank you! I've visited an old Viking village in Iceland. This one is definitely on my list!

I'm sure you've noticed the prevalence of car swallowing potholes on the roads when you are off the few main highways on Newfoundland. Be very careful as you make your way down the two lane back roads. Here, in the US, if you see someone weaving down the road ahead of you, you might think the driver was drunk and you'd keep your distance. On the Rock, when you see the car in front of you going back and forth, he is likely avoiding the potholes and it would be good to follow along his path. Should you see a car going perfectly straight, keeping to the center of the lane, beware, he is likely drunk! Two whole months on the Rock! Sounds wonderful . . .

I'd strongly suggest that you look for site 18 - it is a pull through site that is just a short distance from the restroom. I usually pull through the campground, past the restroom, around the "circle", back past the restroom and then into site 18. That way, your door opens to the street side and the next morning you simply pull straight out of the campground. Note that there is water available at the restroom if you need any via a spigot on the water fountain located in front of the restroom. The camp host is a nice lady located in the camper between site 18 and the restroom. Garbage can be dropped off at either your site or outside the restroom. If you have the time - the cabin and the monument to Meriwether are worth the half hour and there is room to park the Oliver over in that area. Enjoy your new baby. Bill

Campground and Pictures from hiking around Blow Me Down Provincial Park

I do mine the old fashion way, I wash it every month and buff if once a years with an auto buffer and the correct fiberglass compounds for buffing. I do admit that a cover would be much easier to deal with, but why change the way I do thing now at my age. trainman

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6629-how-to-find-happiness-with-lifepo4-lithium-ion-batteries-solacity-article/ Always follow the battery manufacturers recommendations, storage requirements do vary wildly. John Davies Spokane WA

A cover would not be sufficient for winter storage in our Idaho mountain location. A robust roof structure over the trailer is required because the weight of accumulated snow in heavy snow years has caused some trailer roofs to collapse. With regard to a list of stuff to take with you when picking up an Oliver, I will PM my current working draft to John Welte. It needs editing before public posting, but it may be useful to John.

"If your battery has the Lithionics Internal Heater, and you are subject to winter conditions, keep the battery ON, solar ON and plugged into shore power." If the trailer is covered with that Calmark cover, is the "solar on", just a setting? Isn't shore power and an extension cord about the same thing? Maybe shore power is the 30 amp plug you see at campgrounds versus an extension cord that plugs into I don't know where on the trailer.

Is there a trick to getting it on or off? If you have the lithium batteries like we're planning to get when we pick up in November, do you have to do battery cycling to keep them healthy? We will be able to plug in at the house if that helps during winter storage in Portland, Oregon. I understand that there's a battery heater for the lithiums that comes on near freezing.

I'm now well into my 7th year with the CalMark cover and it is still going strong. Yes, even though the "new" cover is much lighter weight than what I have I believe that it is a two person job to get the cover on and a one person job to get it off. Having said that - I've always done both jobs solo. In order to keep the cover from wearing and/or ripping on things like the roof solar panels and the rear bumper, get the largest pool noodles you can find, cut them to size and put them on those areas. In the event of a worn spot or tear (like around the steps for me) CalMark includes a repair kit and will even send you more patching material if needed free. I've used this material to patch and/or reinforce a couple of small areas over the years but have not had to ask for more material beyond what came with the cover in the first place. In the Spring every other year I take the cover to a local laundromat where they have these large washing machines and give it a wash. This is easier for me than trying to do the job while it is on the Ollie or laying on the drive or hanging it over the deck rail. Yes, these things are expensive. But, they fit well and keep the dirt and sun off your baby. Bill

Yes, we use the Calmark cover that’s made for the Oliver. Had it through 3 winters so far and it’s worked very well to keep the Ollie clean. The cover itself has held up very well also, no rips. It is a 2 person job to get the cover on the trailer. We bought ours directly from Calmark in 2019 but I understand that now the cover is only available from Oliver.

That has to be a "male" racoon. He has that "what?" look on his face....

Interesting story! Glad it worked out okay... Mike

Woa, sorry about that mess! Hope your hitchhiker likes Kansas. Thanks for the info on the park. looks great!