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I most certainly will. Waiting to see and touch them first and confirm the measurements and specs are right (should be no issue). Once I have confirmed this I will share the info and contact details.

And the Stick Built Owners that like to boondock off hard surface roads become Ollie Owners as a result of their stick builts falling apart. Love my OE2! GJ

If you are looking to buy a new Oliver Travel Trailer here are some things to consider. With the implementation of the new dealer network you now have several new options available to you that previously did not exist when you could only go to Hohenwald to buy a trailer. There are two ways to approach the first step. If you live a long way from Hohenwald and don’t want to have to drive that far to see the trailers you should check the Link on the Oliver page that will show you where all the current dealers that will be selling Oliver’s are located. There are currently 18 different locations spread across the United States. There are future plans to add new dealers here and in Canada. With the information on the locations of the dealers, if one is close to you and you want to do business with them that is perfectly fine. If one is no closer to you than Hohenwald you may choose to contact the sales team there. When contacting Hohenwald a member of the sales team will take your personal information and work with you to get you the exact trailer you want in the shortest time possible. They can take an order from you and get you into a queue to have the trailer of your dreams built for you. The current wait time after ordering is around four months. If you live in a state that does not have any dealers, they will see if there is a trailer already built and available at one of their dealers. If so, you could have your new trailer in a matter of days rather than months. Even if there is not one that is just like you desire, if a dealer has a trailer on order that is still early in its build, Oliver will work with that dealer to attempt to have the build altered to be what you want. Doing it this way will still get you a trailer much quicker than starting your build from scratch. If you live in a state that has dealers, Oliver’s agreement with those dealers is that you will be referred to them. Another option that was not previously available to you is that if you already own an RV of some sort and want to trade it in, many of the dealers might be able to do that whereas in Hohenwald, that was not and will not ever be an option. You can also buy a trailer through a dealer, do all the paperwork there and still pick it up in Hohenwald if you want to. And, as always, you are free to buy a trailer and take delivery in Hohenwald if you so choose. Both of these options are a good choice if you want to do a plant tour prior to pickup. At some relatively near future point (certainly this year) their plan is to have all sales conducted through the dealer network. The rumor that they will stop working on trailers older than two years or out of warranty is patently false. Service will continue to be done in Hohenwald. The rumor was started by a fired service employee. He and his wife propagated this rumor as well as other false information about the Oliver TT after he was terminated. It was posted both here and on the various FB pages. He has been terminated there as well and the false statements have been removed. As always, the Oliver sales staff will still be available to assist you and the dealers with any questions and issues. If none of this works for you, my suggestion is to take the list of dealers from the website and call each of them and tell them what you are looking for to see if they have one is stock that would suit your needs.

If you don’t mind, please share the information on where you purchased your new USA made springs. Last year I purchased two replacement springs from Dexter along with new U bolts and nuts, wrapped the springs and carry them in the truck just in case.

UPDATE: I was indeed the grounding plug! Got a new one and it charges like a champ now!! So glad it was a simple fix!! Thank ya'll again for all your help!

On the way home from the SW this year, I had the pleasure of experiencing a broken LR leaf spring while underway. It broke in the usual place (see pic). Fortunately the broken spring was noticed quickly and I found a safe place to overnight and perform the repair the next day. Unfortunately, I was not carrying a spare spring. After finding a pair of springs locally and installing them I made it home the next day. What I found when inspecting my broken spring was what appeared to be a defect in the steel (see pic). In no way do I blame Oliver for this failure as the trailer spring market is monopolized by Springs made of Chinese steel and Oliver, like all other manufacturers source from the same pool of components. In fact, after opening a service ticket, Mike was extremely helpful in getting me the specs and info I needed. I decided that once I got the trailer home I would replace all four springs with the best springs I could find. Preferably from a US company, made in the US and with US made 5160 spring steel. What I did not appreciate was that there did not appear to be any trailer parts sources which met this criteria. This was not proving to be a simple task. Everything I could find in the RV aftermarket was sourced from China. No exceptions. The only good news I found was that Chinese springs are cheap ($35-55ea). I remembered a Spring Company from my offroading days and gave them a call. They had a set of four springs which fit the measurements provided by Oliver Service and were made in the US with US 5160 spring steel. Cost is $150/ea spring but since I had already spent a fair amount of $ upgrading to stainless lugnuts and US made Timken bearings this did not prevent me from placing the order for a set of four springs and new ubolts. New springs should be here later this week. I will update with pics once I get the springs and also once I install and of course again after towing a few thousand miles.

I finally got around to purchasing some temperature sensors so I could experiment with different cold air return locations. The original 6x10 grille (45 cu. in. free air flow) was installed right next to the furnace in my front dinette seat (Elite 1). I never understood this decision and wonder if anyone knows why Oliver put it there. It is within inches of the furnace and two supply outlets. This is not desirable for even heating and does nothing to create air flow below between the hulls, which would help keep that area warmer in colder temps. My experiment showed much better results than I anticipated. First I sealed off the OEM return with tape. Then I cut two 6" holes in some cardboard and replaced those with the rear curb and street side fiberglass seat panels. I then placed sensors on the floor of the basement down with the plumbing on each side under those holes. I placed the third sensor under the sink. When I turned on the furnace, there was very positive intake through the 6" holes, which by the way, provide a bit more free air flow than the OEM grille (~56sq.in. for 2, 6" round versus 45 sq.in. for 6x10 OEM grille, which actually has 5x9" free air flow). I brought the interior temps up from 58* to 68* in about 10-15 minutes. You can see the temperature difference in the pic below; and this is with the return air holes cut in at seat level, not at floor level and as far to the rear as I would want them! I also noticed a big improvement in heat distribution throughout the trailer, although in our small elite1, heat was never a problem in the cabin. So, before I start cutting holes in my trailer, I ask if there is something I'm missing here, and why didn't Oliver do this to begin with. It seems like a very simple way to markedly improve the performance of an already stellar trailer. Any comments appreciated! Thanks. Dave

Thank you for the information. You are at least the fourth Oliver owner to have broken springs. Some trailers are newer and some have been older so certain ages of trailers don’t (at least so far) seem to be more or less prone to failure. Also as you stated, this is not an Oliver issue in any way. I believe that all trailers of any make are prone to spring failures.

Interesting too that it appears as though the one that broke was on the street side. Certainly it does appear that the steel simply doesn't look right. Bill

No. We have the Oliver-installed shower curtain, which keeps the toilet area, including the return air vent location, fairly dry during showers. And, like you, we squeegee the shower walls to speed up drying of the wet bath. Given the amount of air flow whenever the furnace is running, we have experienced no moisture issues in the underbelly. I believe the more abundant source of any moisture in that area comes from condensation when outside ambient temps are low and humidity is high. The flow of return air through the underbelly, which is enabled by the return air vent in the shower, actually helps dry out this condensation.

Since they blink off when the furnace cuts in, I suspect the latter. What type of batteries do you have and what's their voltage when the furnace is running?

Makes me think back to my childhood: If I had seen a sign that said "The Thing", no one could have kept me away. I'm always looking for weird cool places like that.

I was joking in my previous post; however, I have used this method in the past. Now I just use my nose. I have a marvelous amount of knowhow that includes electrical and plumbing which covers gas lines. I have never paid anyone to do my own work. While it is true that you can use lighters to find leaks in gas lines, I would suggest that only the most qualified and trained plumbers do this. Everyone else here should either use a gas sniffer, or better yet, hire a qualified professional. You don't get second chances with explosive stuff.

I wonder if they would still feel the same if they pulled a larger stick built trailer several thousand miles, then had the chance to tow an Oliver an equal distance. Also, I was hesitant about a wet bath until I saw how easy it was to keep clean. John

Here are the links for the 3M Thinsulate 600L and 3M 90 Spray adhesive, you might even find it cheaper, just google it. You can buy the 1/2" pipe insulation in 3' or 6' lengths from Home Depot

That's good to know, Steve - thanks for posting!

See photo below, showing both the bottom and top vents I installed. As you can see, they are cut into the wall above and below the closet door, allowing air from the main cabin to flow into and then out of the closet. I am advised that Oliver is now installing such vents in new trailers being manufactured.

🤣I have done this for years! Caveat - NEVER, never try this in an enclosed space where gas can accumulate! The first time I worked with LP, we lived in Northern VA. I installed 80+ feet of threaded black pipe to go from a newly leased propane tank to heat the lower level of a 4K SF home to supply 2 ventless wall-mounted space heaters. When I completed the install, the LP company agent came to fill the tank and test the installation. Now this was western Loudoun County, VA and the good 'ol boy that arrived, with decades of experience, used a long-stem butane lighter to test each and EVERY joint. He found a small flame at one connection, and we corrected that joint. Been doing it ever since. If fact I was under the Oliver with a lighter to test the rear leak we had (mentioned recently in another post). LP is pressurized, while the compressed liquid is released as a gas. The flame can only go out of the system. No way can it go in! You cannot cause the tank to explode. Again, when escaping flammable gas can fill a room or other container, it is in this state explosive. But if you have a minor leak in a line OUTSIDE of your home or TT, it will just light a flame, revealing the leak. Recently, I found the leak in the rear of our Oliver, while lying on the gravel driveway, lighter in hand! Prior to this, I had already smelled the gas. The nose knows! The gas sensors are OK if you trust the Chinese manufacturer. But my nose will now immediately, in seconds, and those sensors only work in closed spaces. Indoors yes, and don't try a flame indoors. If you smell gas indoors open up the entrance door immediately, followed by opening windows. In fact, outside if there is any wind, the sensor will likely not read any gas. I can get a joint to burn in the wind though. I don't believe I have convinced anybody here, but I will continue using my tools, in my way, and haven't blown up anything that I did not intend to! Back to the subject... I have the Mopeka sensors on my wishlist! They look great. Until then, I turn the LP switch one direction, so I know when one tank is empty.

Trust me, they do. Think of it this way: the furnace blower creates positive air pressure in the trailer's main cabin. If you left the closet door open all the time, this positive air pressure would push warmed air into the closet. The two vents work in a similar way: the positive air pressure pushes the cold air near the floor level of the main cabin through the lower vent (i.e., a hole with louvers) into the closet. As the warmed air rises, it exits the top vent (hole), creating a convection current in the closet.

Where's Ollie? Well, the short story is D and her sister are enrolled for a weaving class in Taos today through Sunday. So we came up yesterday afternoon and are staying at Monte Bello park just north of Taos near the base of Wheeler Peak (13,161") NM's highest: Since the 2 "Knuckleheads" and I will be backcountry skiing to Williams Lake at some point, we decided to bring an extra POV for the 2-hour trip here from home which will give the girls flexibility in their to/from commute. We're the only party in the park - imbibing on some random adult beverages at sunset (above) and a Husky "Donut" (below): Yet the same room but different view - Wheeler Pk at sunrise: Morning coffee with 3 humans and 2 canines - cozy, but it doesn't feel crowded: 26F last night the furnace kept OTT occupants at a cozy 66F - screenshot of the Easy Touch App: Cheers, All - from Taos, NM!

I know you are joking. Disclaimer: Just to educate the absolute newbies, soap/soapy water is better. None of us ever use flame to find gas leaks. Including @Jason Foster above, I'm sure. That was a joke, for sure. A propane sniffer is even better.

I use the cheap, tried and true method of lift and shake.

Just an FYI on the subject of replacing a converter/charger in a Progressive Dynamic's Power Control panel or upgrading an existing inverter: the wiring and components of any electrical system, whether AC of DC, has been engineered to the specification’s of the system components. If you choose to upgrade any single component, such as the PD converter/charger from 45 amp to 60 amp, you may overload the other components of the system. Please be careful and consider the bad things that can result from our desire to gain capacity from our upgrades and replacements! Mossey

For many of us, that's plenty cold. Our much older 2008 is good into nighttime temps of high teens, if daytime is warmer. I'm with you. I'll leave intended winter camping to others. If and when we ever get lithium, I'll make sure I have heating for the batteries. I'm good with good blankets.

Yes, @Hokieman and @mountainoliver, that's what I meant, but didn't make clear. With a minimal ip21 rating, I'd want to seal that door to the outside, for both dust and moisture, very carefully, and if I needed venting for temp, I'd want it to be to the cleaner interior of the trailer. Thank you both for helping me out. I appreciate it. You both read my mind.

Of course you can, Bill! HA! 😆

As a safety check as you contact Oliver. There have been a few of those under the dinette transfer switches that failed due to loose wiring connections inside and had thus melted internal wiring. Transfer relay wires can wiggle loose and cause the switch to toggle back and forth when power is applied. To check, you would need to disconnect from shore power and generator, then open the transfer switch box to check if its connections are tight and no smoked wiring.

You should have a breaker for the inverter under the street side bed on the wheel well, looks like this. Some suggestions... 1) Did you check if the ground bonding plug is seated properly in your generator? 2) Are you running your 3500W generator on gas or propane. Because it generates only approx. 2800 continuous running watts on propane, which at 120V is approx. 23A, which should still be enough power to run your trailer without changing the Xantrex settings. Try changing the Xantrex AC input settings from the factory 25A to 20A, that would be #28 setting in the Xantrex "FXC Control" app. This setting is set to 25A at the facory because the breaker size for the inverter is 25A and the main power supply is 30A which is greater than the breaker size. When you connect to a generator or house receptical that supplies a lower amps, you need to adjust setting #28 down to match the current incoming power supply. Your smaller generator could have messed it up. 3) Like @topgun2 suggested, take a rubber mallet and tap the transfer switch box 4) If you trust your generator turn off the EMS and see if it works.

Well, certainly it is almost not possible to fill the Oliver water tank to 100% full if you are not reasonably level. But, my Ollie isn't perfectly level (nor do I spend the time to make it so) when I have it in my driveway preparing for travel. Interestingly, while in my driveway my Ollie is slightly high at the front and slightly tilted to the street side. Being slightly high in the front means that the overflow tube in higher than it would be if things were level and with the tilt being low on the street side it also makes the over flow tube higher than it would be at level. All this results in a fresh water tank that basically gets "overfilled". No problem for me except for that first time I pulled out of the driveway and my wife started yell that I had a leak - due to the "excess" water now coming out of the overflow tube. Having said all this - I normally don't fill my fresh water tank with any more water than necessary. If my plan is to simply be driving for the day and I know that I'll be stopping at a campground that night, I just might not fill that tank at all - why tow around the weight of the water. Note here that I always have a couple of milk jugs with water in them stored by the toilet in order to have water to flush my standard toilet when necessary. Don't forget - one of the main benefits of the tank design in the Oliver is that the weights of the liquids in these tanks is distributed low down and relatively evenly from side to side. This is a major contributing factor in the towing stability of Olivers. Bill p.s. both the fridge and the fresh water do not require that the Oliver be perfectly level in order to fill and/or use them. Specific degrees of "off level" can probably be found in any particular manufacturers owner's manual. I simply use my senses in order to determine what is OK for level - if I can sleep relatively comfortably and if my adult beverage doesn't roll off the dinette then I'm good to go.

Most of the folks went to Bigfoot (space, dry bath) or Casita (price) if they did not go stick built. I guess a lot of stick built people pull to a spot and stay there for a long time.

Hello everyone! I am sharing with everyone how to delete your account if you ever choose to go; we sure hope you stay! But in case you ever move on and would like to delete your account, here is how! Go to Account Settings: Next choose Security and Privacy Tab: From here you can click on the "Request Account Deletion" and it will be reviewed and then deleted. Safe Travels Wanderer!