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The bathroom sink, black tank and grey tank all share the same vent pipe, part of which is actually used as the drain pipe for the sink and shower drain. Your odor could be due to grey tank fumes coming up thru the shower or sink drains if the back flow preventer slide valve is open. Also check the tightness of the steel bands on the fernco connectors in that area.

Well, we’ve had many great week or weekend trips since getting our Ollie in Sep 2021 but we just returned home from our first two month traveling and fell in love with our Ollie all over again! What a wonderful way to go on adventures! Our first day was Wed April 10th and we arrived back this past Fri June 7th. Way too many photos to upload but will try to insert a few. Our stops included: 1) Keystone State Park, Sand Springs, OK - visiting family and grandkids. 2) Palo Duro Canyon State Park, Texas 3) Chupadero RV Park, San Antonio, NM. 4) Fool Hollow State Park, Show Low, AZ. 5) Lost Dutchman State Park, AZ. 6) White Tank Mountain Regional Park, AZ. 7) Dead Horse Ranch State Park, AZ. 8) Desert View Campground, South rim of Grand Canyon. 9) Mesa Verde RV Resort, CO. 10) Love’s RV Stop, Walsenburg, CO. 11) Historic Lake Scott State Park, KS. 12) Wilson State Park, KS. 13) Milford Lake State Park, KS. 14) Eisenhower State Park, KS. 15) Cracker Barrel, Independence, MO. 16) Dr Edmund A Babler Memorial State Park, Chesterfield, MO We set up camp, relaxed, looked at historical sites, biked, visited friends and relatives, and were wondering why we were ending it so soon. Our Ollie was a trooper through the mountains, we took Rte 60 through New Mexico and Arizona, and put some 3,800 miles on it during the two months. We stopped in Pie Town and of course bought an apple pie. We toured Sedona, Jerome, and rode the Verde Canyon Train. We camped on the edge of the Grand Canyon, toured through Mesa Verde, and even weathered tornado warnings in Kansas. Great trip! Wonderful memories made.

If the shower/bathroom Valterra valve seal has been compromised or worn out, then there might be leak there too. The collar that ScubaRx is referring too is there to facilitate the replacement of the valve or seals in this 1 1/2 inch drain. If you do want to replace the Valterra seals, you will need to eventually slide the collar of the union on the 1 1/2 inch PVC drain pipe to allow the pipe connecting that side of the valve to be backed off enough to do the seal replacement on both sides of the valve. Be careful not to lose the screws and nuts on the valve as you disassemble. The cable can be temporarily removed by using an Allen wrench on the SS piston that moves the valve to open/close. If the valve requires much force to close it, you may have a seal that is being pushed by the blade itself which compromises its integrity.,

Easy peasy Bill, a little pressure washing keeps tires looking great. 👍🏻 My TV 35” Nitto Ridge Graplers clean up nicely.

I cant recommend the mopeka sensors enough, an absolute must have for winter camping and from the things ive heard there is no better product for the job. The issue with the level bouncing around is because they use sonar so when it gets low it has trouble determining where the level is but by then youre already down below 10-15% and its time to refill anyways unless you like waking up freezing in the middle of the night. Getting them setup properly helps but itll still start bouncing around when it gets low enough. calibrate the sensors on a perfectly level surface before attaching then stick onto the tank and use the same surface to adjust it to the right position. the magnets are strong enough that you shouldn't usually need to reposition them unless they really get knocked around hard

No sorry, not at all! We came home from 2 1/2 weeks to Utah and it was reading OK along the way and got down to 16%. Now it reads 51%! What-the! The 16% reading is likely closer, will only know when I fill, since a 30 lb tank fills at 6.8 gallons. During this first trip with Mopeka sensors, it often had a warning, re positioning of center. The Mopeka is a flat sensor disk mounted to the round bottom LP tank, go figure. When I fill the tank, I will carefully cut a 1/4” bead of VHB tape around the perimeter of the Mopeka sensor to mount it securely, while it has a magnet. Next time, I would save the $120, since it is so easy to use one tank at a time with the directional valve. However, if you want all the toys go for it. Taped into position (do this initially) it should perform. 😂

If you're sure it's not sewer or propane, another suspect could be the gray tank vent. Gray tanks can smell as bad as black, believe it or not. Your vent stack could be disconnected somewhere. Maybe someone else can describe the routing of the vent pipe.

So... just returned from engine oil change, rear diff oil change, brake inspection, and (drum roll, please...) engine recall exam. Toyota's position (at the local dealership, that is) is that the engine recall last week was a preliminary "notification" of an impending engine recall after they determine what the scope of the recall will be, this includes service tech training as needed, parts, logistics, recall procedures (for the fix), etc. I ordered an engine oil analysis from a third party vendor as part of my service ticket this morning. Should take a few weeks for the results. Wish I could report more. ...FYI

I have been using this one for over a year. Used on bikes, motorcycles, lawn mower, Oliver, truck, and cars. It has been wonderful. 4 presets, put a quick chuck on it, hit start and done. Accuracy is better than most, especially on auto tires. Very portable and easy to use. Last a long time with extended time battery. https://a.co/d/fnRidVo https://locknlube.com/collections/air-tools/products/tire-inflator-adapter# https://locknlube.com/products/locknflate-locking-air-chuck If using with the Milwaukee you want OPEN option. $150 at Northerntool.com Quick chuck

The Falken Wildpeak line is hard to beat for price and durability. https://www.falkentire.com/wildpeak/ht02 The WILDPEAK H/T02 redefines the Highway Terrain tire, delivering industry-leading performance and durability all year long. Featuring rigid tread blocks and a rugged upper sidewall, the H/T02 is built to meet and exceed the demands of today’s pickup truck drivers, from construction site activities to towing and hauling duties. Advanced 4D Nano Design and 3D Canyon Sipe Technology demonstrate Falken’s commitment to excellence, and provide the H/T02 with enhanced all-season drivability. After rigorous tests using the latest ¾-ton diesel pickups, all LT-size offerings of the WILDPEAK H/T02 earned an “HD” badge on the tire’s sidewall, highlighting the Heavy Duty construction with which these tires were built. For those demanding durability and longevity from their truck tires, the H/T02 is in a class of its own.

We use two Renogy 100W panels, with our single 100AH Battleborn Lithium battery. We're also using a Victron bluetooth Shunt and Renogy MPPT 20A solar controller with a 10A Furrion solar port modified to use a Zamp 20A solar port. Some days with full sun only need one panel for a full charge, if the battery is not greatly discharged at the start of the day.

Nice. I have some Mopeka's coming tomorrow as well for the propane tanks. They also play nice with the Victron system, excited to have most everything going through the Victron VRM. Always switching between apps to monitor things. Still have a separate app for TPMS, LevelMate Pro, EasyTouch RV thermostat, and my Grilla Grill. Ha! A lot of batteries to change but no more gateways to deal with or use up energy. Do you find the Mopeka propane sensors accurate?

Awesome Mike! I don't have Victron Comms or the BMV712, just a few sensors here and there. This is my Control Dashboard. 🤣

Also, check to make sure the drain pipe from the bathroom sink and shower is firmly seated into the top of the gray tank. Ours was not glued, just wedged in and it popped out once after a bumpy ride. Mike

@Geronimo John, based on your experience and advice we ordered and are awaiting our two Renogy 100s! I can’t tell you how grateful I am for all your help!😊 We have 3 Li3 Lithionic batteries. When the panels arrive I’ll be yelling for help. As I mentioned in my original post, we are definitely dummies when it comes to all things electric. So, even when you wrote “measure your battery SOC” I have no clue what your mean. 😅 Oh, and we do have onboard solar, as well as the Zamp external port with two round holes, like your attached photo above.

We have the nightstand that has the lower door going into the basement. While set up camping everything stored in the basement is removed (hoses, etc) and the litter box is put in, cleaned daily from the outside opening. During transit the litter box sits on the floor behind passenger seat. Works great for us. Perhaps a fall foliage trip in NY and NH and then down to friends in NC.

What a trip! Lots of memories for sure. Thanks for sharing.

Happy cats, happy humans, great trip! Nicely done. Now, where to next?

Looks like a great trip. Curious: where do you put the litter box?

Congrats on your successful trip and thanks for sharing the great photos. You both will look back and talk about your adventures and cherished memories together for years to come. Awesome and good on you!

The Z-amp solar port likely was installed by a previous owner. If so, you'll want to follow the leads inside the trailer and see where they lead you. If you have a Victron 712 Smart System installed, you'll have a display (on left) and shunt (on right) that looks like these. Very high quality gear. If the solar port wires go: A. DIRECTLY to the Litho's battery terminals, then you'll need to rewire them. B. To the trailer side of your Battery Shunt, then you are golden in two ways. First, your previous owner was a smart person. And You don't need to rewire anything. Regardless when you get your folding suit cases, you'll want rewire them to both mate up to your solar port. Not hard to do, but there are several ways to do it. GJ

Installed these today game changer. Simple connection to Victron system. Now I can get rid of the gateway for SensorPush in the attic. Seamless integration with VRM for remote monitoring. Have to get a couple more for the MP2 inverter and battery bank bay.

When I think about tire manufacture's recommendation for tire pressure, I always consider tire failure. I know that if I have sufficient air in my remaining tire on the same side to support half of the trailer's weight, then I have n+1 redundancy. I consider that pretty important when towing.

John Davis reported long ago that 45 psi to 50 psi was optimal for our tires in that size range. He had that right!! i use 50 PSI to give a bit of a Head Room for monitoring.

I would consider the MFG recommended pressure chart. For our OE2's at 6,000 pounds less tongue weight divided by 4 OE2 tires the weight is below the chart. That means Michelin is saying use the minimum number listed or 40 PSI. However if you are running TMPS, and you want a bit more warning time and a tad firmer ride, then I would go with 45 PSI as a Max. The same logic line for the Defender tires. Here is the Michelin tire pressure chart for ours: One would deducet using the same logic that 35 psi is their recommended pressure for the Defenders, 40 if you want more TMPS head room. Less off road like going to Tec at Denali AK. GJ

I'll drop it to 40-45 then for the next trip and see how it feels. I know the original ride home when when we picked up New was very bumpy as they had 65 psi in those original Michelin's.

When we purchased our LE2 Ollie used during 2016 the original owner was running 50 PSI, eventually we dropped to 45PSI and right now we're running 40PSI cold. When we tow on the highway we always tow with empty black, grey, and fresh water tanks. The combined LT225/75R/16E dual capacities on the above Michelin chart at 40PSI are well above our actual LE2 ready to camp weight.

All things being equal, when it comes to controlling humidity, higher CFM is not your friend- especially in the small area of an LE2. The air does not stay in contact with the evaporator core as long and less moisture is removed from the air than it is at a lower CFM. To make matters worse, the higher CFM of the 13.5k coupled with the higher BTU's will knock the temp down faster resulting in shorter run times reducing the amount of humidity removed even more.

We did an Oliver trip in March to meet up with Chris' sister. They are snowbirds from Minnesota and often stay at a RV Resort in Casa Grande. We played Pickleball one day at the public courts and met a great couple from Ruidoso NM. They introduced us to the Canadian game called "Crokinole!" (BTW, they invited us to camp on their ranch and hope to do so on the way to the Oct. Texas Rally.) Chris bought a cheap Amazon version for my birthday in April. It fell apart quickly so it went back. So now for her birthday, I had to get the original Tracey Board: Crokinole Boards & Crokinole Accessories Canada | Buy Online (traceyboards.com) Not nearly the Oliver I brought home a year ago! Even though, the whole family had a lot of fun playing this weekend (strong competitors)! Where can I find place to stow this for Oliver travel? It's a beast at 30" round and about 20 lbs. It may have to stay home. Any Crokinole players out there! 😂

We put New tires on our 2019 EII in Jan 2024 after 50K miles of use, and the tires were about to age out. (Still had a lot of tread.) We went to Discount Tire (also called America's Tire) and we put on new Michelin's. Tire Selected: Michelin Agilis Cross Climate - LT225/75 R16 Load Range E1 Black Sidewalls Discount Tire had no issue with these on our trailer. The tires are great so far. We run them at 55PSI and they have plenty of load capacity. \

My cows always peed in the pond while drinking their fill.

I use the same one! Works good for up to 20 amps. But mine has one square pin and one round...... GlacierGirl: Just be very careful to notice the shape of each pin, so that you can match it with the proper plug. Art and I found different pin shapes for some of these. Also, do not assume a color like RED is actually to be hooked up to a positive for a given pin shape or color. You'll want to have a volt meter to make sure your panel out put + and - math the plug and that the plus power side gets all the way to a + battery terminal. GJ

@GlacierGirl also not sure what comes with the Renogy or what wiring it requires. Check this mod to start: SAE solar plug upgrade - Ollie Modifications - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com)

First, Welcome to the OTT Family! I'm not familiar with your solar port, but I do own the 200-watt solar suit case. I like it a lot. When I was buying mine, I sought guidance just as you are. One of the owners indicated that he preferred getting two of the 100's because the 200-watt version is large and a bit heavy. After two years of use, I regret not following his advice. The challenge is storage. The 200-watt set is quit large for storage. It is wide enough that I can't stand it on edge in my truck bed. So flat it must lay, taking up a LOT of space. That makes it much more challenging than two smaller ones stacked would have. Sure it will fit into my F-150 short box bed, but it then demands priority and not much can be stored on top of them - despite their great case. If I were going to re-do, I for sure would not have gotten the bigger one. Now if you are set on the 200's I'll offer you mine at 40% off, and I'll get my two sets of 100's. Both win. Well not quite. I would not accept that offer if I were you though. Unless you have a 8' bed for your TV and not much else in it. 🙂 GJ

We got a similar result when measuring the TUNDRA's curb wt last week at the CAT scales. Our curb weight came in at 5370 giving us a payload weight of: (6990 - 5370) = 1620lbs "useful load". Still, by keeping our payload in the 1150 range (which is all the gear we need) we're conservatively below the placarded 1400lbs payload Toyota printed on the drivers door sticker... Its good piece of mind knowing these weights!

We're in Crested Butte, Co this weekend and have had a wonderful fall-colors tour. Our Tundra took us smoothly over Wolf Creek Pass (10,800') and Buffalo Pass on CO 114 (10,300') with no signs of struggling at all. We travel fairly light - used less than 1150lbs of our 1400lbs useful load. Tongue weight right at 495lbs. Fuel mileage for the 748-mile trek came in at 13.5mpg. Casablanca at Buffalo Pass... The Tundra is a good match for how we travel with our OTT, IMO. Cheers!

Not a Truma problem but the issue did manifest itself as very low HOT water flow at all faucets. Problem of low hot water flow was the same whether on city water or using pump & fresh tank. COLD water flow was good at all faucets. And I’ve done the decalcification/cleaning process annually. Did some troubleshooting and was initially thinking it was a Truma problem because flow to the hot side of all the faucets was good if I bypassed the Truma at the bypass valve on the Truma cold water inlet. Fearing a very expensive Truma repair, I dug a little further. Opening the Truma drain lever and removing the Truma screen filter, and turning the bypass valve back to normal operating position, and I saw very little flow emptying out of the Truma drain. There really isn’t much inside the Truma on the inlet at that point to even get clogged up, it’s just a direct port into the screen filter, so low flow draining out pointed back to a problem at the plumbing going into the Truma. I removed the bypass valve and found the rubber seal inside had degraded and swollen (see photo), restricting the flow in the normal position. Found a CAMCO replacement on Amazon that’ll be here tomorrow. Hopefully the seal on this CAMCO one holds up better than the original one (different valve manufacturer). I really think a lot of these plumbing components aren’t tested with the chemicals using for RV maintenance like the anti-freeze winterizing solution, or vinegar/water or bleach/water sanitizing solutions, leading to issues with degradation of the seals. A pretty easy replacement of the valve but I’m also going to use this opportunity to redo the cold inlet and hot outlet plumbing connections on the back of the Truma to change to stainless braided flexible supply lines. Not a fan of the rigid plastic connections used by Oliver initially in those locations. Some owners have had the plastic hot water PEX fitting break at the brass TEE on the Truma outlet. With all the bouncing down the road, and thermal expansion and contraction when using the Truma, I want flexible connections there like some of those other owners have upgraded to. Camco bypass valve link to Amazon: https://a.co/d/eGqkhrA

If it was stuck in Clean/De-Calcify mode that would be indicated on the control panel inside the trailer with the LED blinking slowly, even if you turned the knob back to the normal mode, and you’d have to do the procedure that Rivernerd mentioned. If the LED on the interior control panel is illuminated solid when in the Normal or ECO mode and not blinking any error code pattern that means the Truma controller thinks everything is ok so the problem may be elsewhere. Double check all your water valves under the bed to make sure they are all in the correct normal position. Does the lack of hot water issue happen both when hooked to city water and when using the fresh tank & pump? You mentioned that you are winterizing also. Did you bypass the Truma as required when you winterized? This is very important! And since you have an older Ollie it may be overdue for a decalcification.

Did you accidentally put the Truma into Cleaning Mode? If so there’s a procedure to follow to get it out of that mode. Here’s what Truma sent me to get the unit out of cleaning mode. And note that propane should be ON when doing this process.

No, the bad bypass valve still felt normal when opening and closing it. The faulty seal inside the bypass valve wasn’t noticeable until I removed the valve. The new CAMCO bypass valve is installed and works well so far. One nice little detail of this CAMCO valve is that the positions are labeled (open or bypass). And I changed all water lines into and out of the Truma to braided flexible supply lines and brass fittings to eliminate the issue of breakage of the rigid plastic connections that some owners have had. Camco 37463 3-Way By-Pass Valve Replacement - Brass https://a.co/d/8qur0uz

My wife and I pickup up our LEII, Hull 990 on 2/17/22. We spent the nearly a week at or near Oliver's operations in Hohenwald shaking down the systems before returning to our home in Dallas. Our Truma water heater worked as expected and we marveled at how it was "just like out tankless water heater at home". I winterized the trailer upon our return home, including installing the antifreeze option for the Truma water heater. Our LEII spent the next 6-7 weeks in our driveway while I made additions to it. On April 23, I moved the trailer to an enclosed storage facility approximately 30 miles north. We have three Lithionics batteries, for which I followed the recommendation to turn OFF the batteries during storage for 30 days or less. On approximatly May 8, I retrieved the trailer from the storage facility to prepare for departure on May 11 to South Carolina. Everything appeared to be in order prior to our departure, although I did NOT test the Truma water heater. After a full day of travel, late on the night of May 11 I discovered the Truma water heater would not operate. We had two full 20 lb. propane tanks, the stove easily lighted verifying the flow of propane. I verified the power switch on the Truma unit was ON, however, the interior control located to the right of the pantry did NOT display an amber light. No hot water. I contacted OTT Service the next day and was advised to check the fuse, which proved to be OK. I was also advised to check for 12 volts DC at the rear of the Truma remote control. Today I removed the access portal from the forward interior wall of the pantry to discover the Truma remote is apparently epoxied to the hull. A black cable with an RJ11 type telephone connector plugs into the rear of the Truma remote, making testing for 12 VDC difficult. I again called OTT Service, and after four hours have still not received a call back. I searched Google for "Truma service near me" (now Paris Mountain State Park, near Greenville, SC) and found the Truma Dealer Partner Locator on Truma.net. The first listing was for Retromodern Campers, in Pickens, SC. I phone them and spoke with Scott Whitmire, who indicate his company had recently become an authorized servicer for Truma and he had been installing Truma units in refurbished trailers, many from the 1940s and 1950s. After describing the symptoms of our Truma unit, Scott indicated he had encountered the same symptoms twice, once as recently as two weeks ago. He said he would call Truma for guidance. In about 10 minutes I received a return call from Scott, saying he had spoken with Truma and received the following directions: Power ON the Truma unit at the main power switch. On the interior mounted remote control, turn the dial to OFF Wait a few seconds, then turn the power to ON at the remote control The remote control unit should now display the amber light on the dial. I was pleasantly surprised the amber light came on. I went outside to the external shower (not wanting to fill the gray tank) and ran the water for less than a minute, when hot water began to flow. I then verified hot water was available at both the bathroom and kitchen faucets. Scott said as long as the power is not shutoff to the Truma unit, it should work just fine on the next trip. I point out that I expect it to be common practice for Oliver owners, many of whose whose trailers are equipped with lithium batteries, to power the batteries OFF between trips. This will necessitate performing the Truma re-boot process described above after each storage period in which the lithium batteries are turned OFF. I can find no reference to this re-boot process In the Truma section of the 2022 Oliver Optional Features Component Manual. I hope others with lithium batteries and Truma water heaters will recall call this procedure after they have turned OFF their lithium batteries during storage.