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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/18/2024 in all areas

  1. @topgun2 - Found the Cowboy Donut Shop in Rock Springs - it was actually featured on the "Food Network"! Very YUMMY, in deed... Headed north to Jackson on Wednesday, absolutely fantastic - western WY! Cheers!
    6 points
  2. Zip ties allow me to just look up and see that nothing has changed at a glance. 👍🏻
    5 points
  3. This last Boondocking Trip to New Mexico started with taking my Telesteps Ladder and cleaning off the Solar Panels, as usual. I snug up ALL the knob screws securing the panels as I clean. I do this every time we leave home in Boulder City, Nevada. The fourth day of camping in the Gila National Forest New Mexico for agates, Nancy was walking along the road, watching for low hanging pine branches. Our usual routine, when on a narrow Forest Service Road. As we soon found an nice campsite, she noticed the Solar Panel on the Driver's side front... was flopping? I stopped and the Knob to secure the Panel... was missing. I snug them up every trip before we leave, and anytime I suspect I need to clean off dust while camped. 😞 How could that happen? This should never happen. I read about someone else on the Oliver Forum who lost a Knob. Well, we did as well thinking that was rather odd. How it backed out... it is a mystery. I always carry a good selection of bolts, nuts, washers, locking washers and nuts. I found TWO bolts in my carton, that had the fine threads, and managed to make a FIX on the spot. I will keep MY replacement. It worked. This post is to alert anyone with Solar Panels to snug these Knobs up, while wiping down the Solar Panel clean. I am detail orientated and so is Nancy. This surprised Nancy and myself. If it happened ONCE to ME... it could happen to anyone. Of course, I have my camera with me all the time. I add them for your entertainment. The best part of this story, there was NO Solar Panel damage, but without the Telestep Ladder, I would have had to stack milk crates onto the tail gate of my F350 to secure the Panel. Be prepared for anything... and sometimes... anything occurs. If you see any Knob Missing... the panel drops several inches downward. The nut with fine threads was still welded and not damaged. Strange things can happen, but this was so odd... I took some photographs to show it did happen and can happen to you. The End.
    4 points
  4. I carry bailing wire as a temporary fix for anyrhing needing some emergency 'repair'. I have zip ties, of so many colors and lengths, they will decompose from age and also not good with sharp edges. My Mom, forty years ago, bought me a massive amount of Sears' bolts, nuts, washers, screws package and wing nuts for Xmas. I was the fix it guy in the family. Still using them. Carry a little of each in the Oliver, as well. I needed a fine threaded screw, two washers and a wing nut for the Knob that fell off the Solar Panel mounting bracket last week. I had it and did not need the Bailing Wire. A ladder helped, as well. We travel with tools, hardware and his & her shovels... for Off the Grid traveling. You do not need them... until you DO. If you have the tools and hardware, chance are you will never need them. But... when you do... it is too late to reconsider. Carry some odds and ends, some tools, and even a battery operated Tire Pressure unit. We Off the Grid and have no Cell Service and no FM radio stations in the Oliver. You do not need anything... until you do. When you do... you are in doo doo land.
    4 points
  5. I experienced dropouts on my first install. Measured resistance across cheap fuses in system and found they had high resistance causing heat and cutout also. Awesome install! Run my a/c last week on batteries, working well. 85 degrees out and can get through complete day on my 400 ah battleborn batteries and my victron. Great work!
    4 points
  6. I use zip ties and they have worked well for the last 4 years. Absolutely zero issues with loose knobs. I inspect them regularly and so far all good. I think @ScubaRx recommended just using a new bolt and nyloc nut and you never need to worry about loose solar panel knobs again.
    4 points
  7. You're the man Art, great pic! Hard to keep up with you, though we love every episode. 😂
    3 points
  8. @KfSmit - FYI, Patriot is spot on with his description and how you might consider going forward with an acquision, IMO. If you're considering a used OTT, its service records are key. However, they could be meaningless to you unless you "know" the Oliver. Suggestion: Read these forums from old to new. Learn how they're laid out by topical areas. Focus on the "Mechanical and Technical Tips", "Oliver Modifications", and "Towing an Oliver". Take your time, mull over issues, problems, and fixes that others have solved. Go back to the oldest posts you can find. Read them. Study. Understand the common challenges and opportunities many of us have experienced with this rig. You'll be amazed. The knowledge you'll gain from this endeavor will be priceless. After scanning these diatribes, you'll be able to examine service records, owner upgrades, and modifications and be able to make sense of them and determine if they were done correctly or not after surveying that particular rig. Depending on your background and experience with RV's, a certified appraiser would be money well spent. The "bones" of an Oliver are strong, as mentioned earlier, they are not over-complicated -- but they do require an understanding of routine maintenance to remain functional and safe while towing and camping. We've probably put north of 7k miles on ours since the first of the year - Casablanca has behaved remarkably. This is a consistent underpinning of the brand. They're tough. But they need attention - not neglect. Take care of your kit - it will take care of you. Do not hesitate to reach out to the owners on these forums and ask questions, seek advice, and know that you'll receive sound feedback. Good luck in your search and enjoy every moment of it - the right unit will come along at the right time, I'm sure of it because we did the same thing you're doing now 3 years ago, brother! Cheers!
    3 points
  9. @topgun2 - Hey, Bill; 1. OK - kinda cool story here. We checked into the Rally early on Saturday afternoon and were assigned a temporary site for the evening. High winds kept us inside for the evening, but when we took the Knuckleheads out for an early walk yesterday morning, there was another Oliver in the temp area that arrived after us on Sat. They're Robert and Bonny from WA (winter in AZ), their's is a '15 LE2 - wonderful couple. So we were assigned adjacent sites yesterday for the duration of the rally - total coincidence! 2. So far, we're the only Olivers we've seen here. There's likely north of 500 rigs here. 3. The venue is the Sweetwater/Green River County Fair Grounds/Horse racing track. Very well organized, but tight (can you spell, "s-a-r-d-i-n-e-s") 4. Headed to downtown Rock Springs later this AM - will definitely track down the donut shop! HA! I've been working on D and the boys lately to try and find their "CHILL" space - seems to be working some... Cheers, ALL!
    3 points
  10. Yep. if you know this is the unit you want, then no sense waiting.
    2 points
  11. The Spec PDF on this page shows R410 for the Gree Eco-Cool: ECO-COOL White Free Blow (premierproducts.net) I wouldn't wait 'til next year, given a white R32 model can be purchased this year. New year price increases are pretty much industry standard. This one is certainly available in R32 with the WHITE version TBD "stocked within 8 weeks."
    2 points
  12. We have a 2019 27 foot Airstream and a 2019 Oliver Elite II. One has to go. Which? It all depends... The 2019 Airstream has ALL of the Off the Grid Appliances. Bought off the Airstream Dealer's Lot, new. The 2019 Oliver Elite II has ALL of the Off the Grid Appliances. Bought from original owner three years ago who had cancer and wife did not like the Travel Trailer Experience. A common problem as we become older and health may become a factor. Worked out for us as it was listed for sale on the Oliver Forum and we bought the trailer in less than 24 hours at full asking price. It is a wonderful trailer. You have good advice on this Forum. Each has their limitations: The Airstream need Upgrade Expenses TO: Six inch lifted Axles and Upgraded wheels to 16 inch and 16 inch Michelins. It is longer and wider than an Oliver. It has lots of open space in the Aisles. It has a lower Center of Gravity for stability. The Oliver Elite II has the SAME Clearance as the Lift Kit Airstream. The Oliver Elite II has as standard the 16 inch wheels and 16 inch Michelin Tires. The Oliver has a higher center of gravity. The Airstream and Oliver Elite II are similar in... WEIGHT. Tow perfectly 'on the ball' behind our 2016 F350 4x4 Diesel. Our Airstream and Oliver Elite II have ALL of the upgrades... Solar is important. Appliances are Propane and/or Electric plug in. The Storage in the Oliver Elite II and the longer Airstream are... about the SAME. The Oliver storage is FANTASTIC. The Airstream storage is about the same with 8 feet 6 inches wide and the Oliver is 7 feet even, if I check. Nothing wrong with being a Compact Oliver as it is a Go Anywhere Travel Trailer. Airstreams are limited, not from an experienced OTG Travel Owner... but length creates a dragging rear bumper, even with the 6 inch lift and 16 inch tires. Oliver Elite II is a Do All travel trailer. If you are a RV Park traveler, it does not matter. Oliver's and Airstream Trailers are great for Hookups and RV Parks. Oliver owners are eager to assist and give advice. The more options... Solar should be #1... and get everything that catches your attention. We have everything in our Airstream and Oliver Elite II. They cost about the same off the lot.
    2 points
  13. Just a great excuse to extricate ourselves from killer June temps in northern NM - we joined the SKP’s club and are at their rally in Rock Springs, WY. Grilled artichokes, shrimp, and fresh garden salad for chow… Cheers All!
    2 points
  14. The Ollie World is a small one - just like the rig!
    2 points
  15. If you like to dry camp and boondock, I highly recommend the larger lithium package if you can find one with that option. Many have chosen to upgrade to lithium after the purchase and it's much more functional and seamless to get one with that system already installed from the factory. Not having one isn't a deal breaker, but it will save you a lot of work adding lithium later. Good luck. Do check the Facebook Group "Oliver Travel Trailer for sale". There are some good listings there. https://www.facebook.com/groups/OliverforSale
    2 points
  16. A little thread-lock on the bolts. I checked mine last year and they're not movin'.
    2 points
  17. God Bless America and the fact with our meager means we can have so much in life! Vote 2024. 😂
    2 points
  18. Looking forward to someone installing the Atmos 4.4 (Gree, Tosot, Eco cool) unit. Looks great from what I read on the Sprinter van thread. Compared to the Dometic PII it has almost the same footprint and weight. 2 1/2 inches longer in the back. No condensate pump or line connection (drains onto the roof) Remote control and WiFi thermostat available. Should make for easy install. Also, app controlled. Quite a bit more efficient on shore power and batteries. Very quiet! $1350 shipped. Not including soft start if needed. (Single or small battery bank). Or cheaper depending on which brand you get off of Amazon, etc. Definitely interested. @Ronbrink and others let us know how the install goes. Best, M Links for unit introduction and installation:
    2 points
  19. Keep us posted @John Dorrer - we'll plan a link-up somewhere cool -- the aspens start turning in the Telluride area around mid-late SEP... beautiful vistas!
    2 points
  20. .....and here's the post from John Davies
    2 points
  21. I believe that it was John Davies who did a post a few years ago concerning this very subject. As I recall, he encouraged everyone to "safety wire" these such they could not loosen. Bill p.s. pool noodles make for great "bumpers" such that the ladder doesn't scratch the side of the Ollie.
    2 points
  22. Us too and after a short local September trip it will be 3 weeks in October for us in NM and TX with Inks Lake being the focal point for week two. High was in the 90s yesterday, low of 58 at dawn and the forecast is only up to 85 today. Maybe cool is on its way east. It was very hot here last week. Last year we purchased our Oliver on June 7. By early July a dozen friends had asked, "have you gone camping?" Decided to venture out in July just to get out in our new Oliver, and of course just when it was getting hotter. Decided on Kendricks Mountain Wilderness area northwest of Flagstaff, the peak is 10,427 FT and we camped at over 6800 FT. It was just cool enough at this altitude. A cooler June day in Phoenix today at 105 and any direction we drive from home gets hotter before we get high or north enough to be cooler. We get to camp all winter when many of you have your Olivers in winter storage. I'm good with being home summers at 5400 FT and we play pickleball indoors! I'm starting 3 weeks off today with more Oliver repairs and mods to come soon. See many of you at Inks Lake! Four months will be here in a heartbeat...
    2 points
  23. @MAX Burner An excellent idea escaping the heat! The east cost is now under a so called “heat dome” as the media likes to package it. D and the pups look pretty chill and relaxed. Great photos and it sounds like a great time Art! Thanks for sharing the pics especially with old glory flying high! Rally on Brother! 🇺🇸🇺🇸
    2 points
  24. Been looking to replace our 14yo 9.2k Coleman with a new unit, not because it isn't working well, but because of it's age and we don't want to be left without AC or have to have it replaced while traveling. Was thinking about purchasing the Houghton 9.5k since it was also available with a heatpump but was a little apprehensive because of the always on fan issue and the need to mod the unit to shut the fan down when the compressor shuts off to keep humidity down. Thought maybe because of the low 9.5k rating it would run longer and might not have the same humidity issues as the Houghton larger units so I decided to do a test using my Coleman in both the auto mode that it has which shuts down the fan when the compressor is off, as well as the always on low fan setting which I figured should emulate the Houghton 9.5k performance fairly well. Decided to test under the worst conditions to control humidity, conditions that are very common in the areas we camp- temps in the 70's at night with high humidity. The results were pretty shocking to me. As you can see in the pic, even with our smaller 9.2k Coleman the humidity shot up almost instantly when the fan was set to low/always on. Didn't expect this drastic of a rise so quickly and now I'm back to not knowing which direction to go... Not interested in modding a brand new Houghton, and also, not interested in a Truma since I don't want to have to have the custom fiberglass work done to accommodate it, nor do I even know how it performs under these same conditions. Has anyone here installed the Atmos 4.4 yet and used it similar conditions? Looks promising since it has a de-humidification / sleep mode, but it looks like it also operates with the fan always on too. Might just have to replace with a new Coleman Mach 8 Cub Plus since it has an auto fan mode and it can use our existing thermostat though I don't know how quiet that unit is. No heatpump either, though it does have a heat strip option.. The search continues...
    1 point
  25. Welcome to the forum! Ask lots of questions as there is a lot of collective knowledge and know how here. Make sure you take a deep dive into Oliver University for lots of helpful info and videos. Our Oliver Travel Trailer is everything we need and nothing we don’t! Patriot🇺🇸
    1 point
  26. How did you test this? I ask because if the problem you have is a grounding issue, then you may still have power to the receptacle. If you tested by using the hot and neutral wires supplied at the plug, and the neutral is bad, then your meter will show no power. Most all of my electrical issues have been with bad (loose) grounds. Hook up your meter to your supply (hot) wire and use another neutral/ground to see if you get power. If you do, then you know it's a grounding issue and you can start tracing that back to the bad connection. If you still have no power using a different ground, then most likely it is a supply line issue, so work back from there. Also, since your receptacle is out and disconnected, I'd do a continuity check to be sure it is functional. Finally, I have the Dometic 3-way refrigerator and there is a 5amp fuse for the AC heater hidden away in a control box attached to the back of the refir, accessed by removing the lower vent outside. Check your manual to see about yours. Time to buy a multimeter if you don't already have one! These issues can be challenging to trace. Just be methodical and don't ignore the grounding side of the tests. Good luck. Dave I edited this for some better clarity...I hope.
    1 point
  27. But I really like COOL logo! 🤣
    1 point
  28. As of now, SDG is who I would buy from $1350 shipped. https://www.sdgelkhart.com/dreiha-4-4
    1 point
  29. I agree you must be careful buying on Amazon but the current Tosot AC on their website is R-32. Probably the best thing to do is buy direct or from official distributors (Atmos 4.4) like the one in Indiana that I believe @Ronbrink is purchasing from. There are other option though if you do your homework and are willing to take the risk to save a little money. But I do believe they are all the same units manufactured by the same company. I think the 410 use is in older manufactured units. Would be my guess. Anyway, hope to see the R-32 version in a Oliver soon! Best, Mike
    1 point
  30. From what I've been told, ALL new air conditioner and refrigeration units must be R32 starting Jan 1st 2025. Probably going to see some good deals on 410a units before then, but I'm waiting until next year to purchase a new AC unit for our Ollie.
    1 point
  31. You went 2.4" lower with your Houghton. The Atmos is only 0.9" tall than the OEM Dometic Penguin II. I guess if you have a 10 FT garage door another 1" would matter, otherwise not. Ours is parked outdoors. I'll trade the inch for a more battery efficient AC system.
    1 point
  32. Thanks for all the helpful advice. At this point we are still researching and gaining knowledge of something new to us. We are experienced tent campers and backpackers but time has put that in the rear view mirror, now. We will continue monitoring this most knowledgeable database for your insights.
    1 point
  33. Glad you liked it! Jackson "used" to be a great little town. But, now with the traffic jams - not so much. If you head up to the Moran Junction area, let me know. There is a great boondocking spot up in that direction. Bill
    1 point
  34. I would think not, regarding additional platform/fiberglass support. There would be some wiring mods (no wall thermostat) and the condensate drains rooftop; remains to be seen if there will be a mod to adapt the Oliver’s thru-hull drain line.
    1 point
  35. @Ronbrink From what I understand, they all use R-32 due to Gree being the manufacturer for them all and then they are distributed under different labels depending on market. Which is great since R-410A is going to be retired and R-32 is much more efficient. Thanks for making us aware of an exciting new option. @Shawna and Scott From what I have seen it will work perfectly due to having almost the exact same footprint. Curious to see pics of first install on an Oliver. TST-RV-GC15K-User_manual_230707.pdf PPI-SG-GREE-002.pdf Best, Mike
    1 point
  36. What sets the Atmos 4.4 apart from the other similar brands you listed is the type of refrigerant, R32. As I recall reading, requires a lower operating pressure and thus, more energy efficient.
    1 point
  37. Another thing to try: In our previous SOB trailers I could often remove the yellowing on white plastic parts with black steak remover spray. Might be worth a try first.
    1 point
  38. We have not looked behind the drawer but it’s worth a try, thanks for the tip NHBoomers
    1 point
  39. Who is the additional Oliver? Are there only the two of you out of how many in total? Is the Rally at the Fairgrounds? Did you find the donut place? Obviously D and the pups look like they need lessons in how to relax!😁 Thks for the pics. Bill
    1 point
  40. I just installed an Epoch 300 AH battery to replace our original 4-6 volt trojan agms. I have a victron shunt so I can monitor things. I did not disconnect the charge wire. So far I can only get 2.5 amps or so through the 7 pin depending on voltage difference of TV battery and smart alternator and TT. I went to the trouble of installing a normally open relay in the Oliver to isolate the batteries, and can attempt charging by turning on lights (trigger for relay). The black wire on the far right stud between the relay and the circuit breaker is the charge line from the 7 pin. Left studs are for trigger off green lights wire and ground. So, right now not much difference from just disconnecting although I need to make sure the charge and ground wires off the umbilical weren’t spliced to a smaller gage wires and test disconnecting the feedback to the smart alternator and see if it will output a constant high voltage.
    1 point
  41. For anyone interested in integrating Seelevel II sensors into the Victron system. The kit includes a tank sensor that you don’t need to use but I couldn’t find the custom made cable elsewhere. Link: https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/store/seelevel-709-n2k-pm-tank-monitor-kit-for-cerbo-gx/
    1 point
  42. Have you pulled the bottom left kitchen drawers out to inspect for a faucet leak that can wet wood in that area? Sounds like you've done due diligence with the plumbing so I thought it might be worth a look. It took over six months to find out this was the source of an odor in our camper which was detected in various areas over time. All close to the floor. The odor seemed to move around but I didn't detect it around the drawers until I removed them. It was a peculiar odor that eventually took on an ammonia component. Ammonia odors are classic symptoms of a refrigerant leak, but even while checking out the refrigerator I could not tell the source was the wet drawers.
    1 point
  43. I have the Truma Aventa Eco in my LE2. I believe it is a 13.5 btu unit. It seems to drop the temperature down from mid 90s within about 10 minutes or less and that is in full sun. A smaller unit should be able to handle it, but it will run longer. On the flip side, an AC unit that runs for a longer amount of time will remove more humidity, so if you live in northern climates with cooler temps and higher humidity, a smaller unit is the right way to go in my opinion.
    1 point
  44. Very useful for us! I have a quick-connect 12 ft LP line to a quick-connect T. Then we connect our Weber Q grill (maybe buy a proper grill?) and this fire-ring. Removed regulators on both. Don't really need a YouTube if you have a good local hardware store to find the right brass fittings. Very happy not to carry an extra LP tank for outdoor use. Bond Bond Signature 18.5-in W 54000-BTU Bronze Portable Steel Round Propane Gas Fire Pit in the Gas Fire Pits department at Lowes.com
    1 point
  45. I forgot about the 300AH model, and it makes a whole lot of sense! Thanks for the reminder. Go with the two 300s is my take. Bottom line, 460AH is VERY good, 600AH is exceptional, and if you're our friend @rideadeuce who ditched the tray to go for 2x460, OMG 920AH is "priceless." Both options fit in the battery tray. The smaller 300s at 58 LBS are easier to handle in length and weight vs. the 20+" 84 LB monster. At today's prices I calculate the 460 is $3.04/AH and the 300s are $3.66/AV, but you get 600AH! Right now, the is a MEMORIAL10 code, so two 300s are 1,978.20 plus tax and ship! Wow, I want these, but still have to wait for other mods. Last Black Friday they had an extra 15% OFF sale. You could start with just one, but that is barely more usable AH than what you already have. As far as wiring @topgun2 is correct, but I would not pull a fuse in your tow vehicle (TV). You may want it when towing another trailer and forget it's disconnected. It is simple enough to pull the wire at the positive busbar. Here is a picture of mine, though your newer hull may be different. Should be a black wire, easy enough to test. When disconnected from both busbar and TV it should show open/no voltage. When connected to the TV you should read +12VDC. Test OFF and ON until you are certain. In my pic, it's the black wire on the left hanging. Later I taped it up and taped it to another insulated wire, so it sits open.
    1 point
  46. This is a great hack! We do the same here...
    1 point
  47. For your Elite I, you don't need a "big truck". I would highly recommend a Mid Sized Pickup like the GMC Canyon or the Chevy Colorado with the 2.7L I-4 Turbo DOHC VVT DI with Active Fuel Management engine. This engine is standard in the GMC and the high end option the Colorado. https://pickuptrucktalk.com/2023/05/2023-gmc-canyon-vs-chevy-colorado-spec-by-spec-comparison/ There are some owners that use this small truck (or its diesel predecessor) to tow the larger Elite II. All report success towing the 2000+ pound heavier trailer. But, that "success" is dependent on what your expectations are of a good towing experience. To me, it's being able to carry anything I desire and still be able to power up a 12,000 foot pass at the legal speed limit and coast down the other side never having to touch the brakes, using only the exhaust brake and downshifting. This is easy East of the Mississippi River where the highest point you can drive to is 6400 feet. Compare that to the highest paved road in North America, Mount Evans Road in Colorado that rises to a height of 14,130 feet. Since you hail from Montana, I'm sure you're all too familiar with navigating the western highways. We've owned 5 different tow vehicles including a 1500, 2500 and now a 3500. I've towed with all of them - a lot. For me, I could have my choice as we own both a GMC Canyon with the 2.8L diesel and a Silverado 3500HD 6.6L diesel but anything smaller than our 3500 is too small for our Elite II. We get better towing fuel mileage with it than with any of the others.
    1 point
  48. Rule of thumb for towing…. If you cannot maintain a minimum safe highway speed going up steep grades, you need a bigger engine. Otherwise you will just wear out your drivetrain and wear out your patience, and the patience of the people stacked up behind you. It simply is not safe. Have you looked at a newer Ram 1500? They are very carlike, have great interiors and one would be a perfect TV for your LE1. These are small trailers but they are deceptively heavy, like armored battle bots. An alternative would be a body on frame full sized SUV like a Tahoe or Sequoia. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  49. @Wandering Sagebrush, so often, the simple path can be the best. Thanks for sharing.
    1 point
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