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Problem Solved: Bad Crimps on New 3 way crimp connectors I had bought new brake and hubs for the trailer and had the installation done at the same place doing our Truma Recall. I looked more closely and used a check light to trace power to the new 3way crimp connectors (for the new brake assemblies.) They didn't look fully seated on the fronts the same as the rear. Squeezed them with a pair of channel locks and voila, now the front brakes on both sides are engaging. Since I was under the trailer I went around and manually adjusted all 4 brakes to the same resistance. Next I'll be burnishing in the brakes as we begin our next trip. Craig - Hull 505 - Galway Girl

Me too, though I'm not sure we could ever make this trip, so far east, and at this time of year when work (and yardwork) is plentiful and when it's spring in the high desert! Loved the 2024 Texas Rally, meeting so many 40+ Oliver owners, and only 1100 miles away. Your rally should certainly be AWESOME! A big shout-out to @Steve Morris for his efforts each year. Even though we cannot be there, I've saved a copy of this special listing of Oliver Owners so I can learn of new members on this forum and in hopes to meet y'all "on the road again." Best wishes to all, and Hello to all from John & Chris of Prescott AZ, yet currently at 7200 ft at the Manzano Mountains NM SP (It's Ok, but certainly not Lake Guntersville AL)! Check out my lunch partner during my lunch break yesterday! PLEASE, please post 100s of great pictures on this thread! We would view and enjoy each and every one on them! Thank you...

This is what I use. I think I bought them at Home Depot or Lowe’s.

It's main purpose as far as I'm concerned. I took mine into a hardware store out in the middle of the mountains in Colorado last year and finally found grommets that work. They aren't exactly the same, but they work. I bought a few of them. I think I have replaced mine 2 times in 3 years. The sun is rough.

Given only FRONT with rear trailer brakes working, I cannot see you'd have open wires inside your hull. I would get under your Oliver and check for any visible damage to the wires. Check for voltage there, with either TV connected and truck brake depressed, or by connecting 12V at the harness, B+ to blue/brake wire) and B- to white/ground (if I'm remembering the colors correctly). If you have voltage there (which you should have given the rears work) then you have confirmed wiring internal to the hull is good. Then check for voltage in-between each brake drum. Could be an open ground to the front brakes too. You could also have a burnt magnet or wire harness internal to one of the front drums, so next step is to get inside and test for voltage and ground inside each front drum. While you're in there set your self-adjusters to get the brake shoes nice and close!

Mike - Not surprisingly since our hull are so close - mine didn't come with grommets either. However, a few years back Bugeyedriver put me onto a set and I've never looked back. After all, what's good for Pete can't be all that bad!🤪 Bill

My wife and I purchased Hull #251 on Sunday. I believe we're the fourth owners. This is our first travel trailer since a tent trailer in the 90's. Really regret we'll miss the owner's rally this weekend. Looking forward to getting out with the trailer but it will be a few weeks. We'll do some local shake down trips to start. We've been lurking on the site for the last couple years and really appreciate all the owner information we've read. Thanks, Tony & Rhonda

Yep, never a neutral in a DC circuit.

It's always best to take pictures of wiring before disconnecting as Rideandfly had. Then connect new wires to the same locations. I would say, given you have the black and white wires connected as shown in the picture, trip the breaker for the converter, plug into shore power and then switch the breaker back on. If you have the AC wiring wrong the breaker will trip and then continue reading... For 120VAC: Residential 120VAC circuits ALWAYS use the same wire color conventions (RVs and TTs too). The HOT is Black, the Neutral is White and the Green is Ground. The Converter needs AC power in from the shore connection. First trip the 30A main breaker, top left of the 120VAC breaker panel, connect the green wire to the ground bus which is easy to identify since there will be many other green or stripped copper wires connected to it. Connect the white to the neutral bus where you see nothing but other white wires. Then remove the circuit breaker for the converter/charger, wire the hot/black wire to it. After you wire the DC side, plug the breaker back in as the last step. Then turn the 30A main on, followed by the 20A converter breaker. This order of wiring these connections is most safe. When you see a red wire in AC Residential wiring it's either for a "switch-leg" to power on a switched light or appliance or used in 240AC as the second leg using 10/3. There are none of these in our Oliver where OTT uses only 12/2 or 14/2 wiring for 120VAC circuits. Class A RVs use a fourth wire (10/3 cable) for 50A shore power connections. For 12VDC: There are common wires used in RV and Automotive DC wiring (e.g. red/black, black/white) but not a single standard as is residential AC wiring. Oliver uses RED for B+ in their 8 AWG wiring and OTT uses both YELLOW (as in the picture above) and GREEN wire connections for B- (see picture). I've read some about neutral wires in DC, but not sure if there is any merit in this discussion. The bottom-line in DC wiring is that batteries have only two connections, B+ or battery positive and B- battery ground.

We are in Fisherville as well. We’ve had 483 for six years. Good to have another Ollie so close!

Welcome to the Oliver Family! Don’t hesitate to reach out with any questions or challenges y’all may be experiencing— there’s ample expertise on the forum to help sort them out. best regards,

Yeah, I left our mounts in place too, for the same reason. Prior owner had broken the hook and replaced it with a wire hook that could not possibly hold the door. 🤣 I purchased ours Feb 2024, thank you again @Ty J, and I got lucky to get one Amazon used for $15 with tax, shipped. Though certainly with $40 or more, since ours has proven itself ever since!

And ordered the hinges but will keep the PITA hook (because I don't want to fill holes in the hull).

You sold me on them. Thanks.

Year+ and A+. We can be be in the SW winds 30+ MPH and the door sits still! Gotta have these and I will never hook a door again, or have the door bang on my @ss, nor will I lean over and hurt myself fighting with the door and its hook! 🤣

I haven't given much thought to winterizing here in Texas. I leave the gas heater on 52 during the winter and the Aquago in Eco. It did fine down to 20 degrees on some nights. This is when it is not in use. I keep it around 68 when we use it.

I think @Rolindkeeps his Oliver stored in his living room. Not a bad idea, come to think of it.

You can put lipstick on a pig! 🤣

Exactly what I found at Lowes. I couldn't find my packaging. Thanks for posting

It's been several years since we replaced our PD controller, but I still have photos where you can see the upper green and lower white wires connected before and after installation. Here's our original PD controller on our 2015 LE2: New controller for installation: Installed new controller:

I installed these and removed the PITA hook. https://a.co/d/iRUPdu4

That’s never happened. I might try to fit some grommets just to see what I might be missing!

Be a bit careful with these in that Oliver has used several different styles of these door retainers over the years. Before you buy - make sure that you are getting the correct grommets for your particular Ollie. Bill

If by "they" you mean Oliver - As far as I know these door holders didn't originally come with the rubber grommets. But, Oliver added them when it was found that the door hook would "rattle" in the that hole that is just a little too big when the wind blew. Assuming that this is true - I'm guessing that Oliver has not been able to locate a supply of anything other than rubber too.😢 Bill

As Patriot implied - winterizing an Oliver is easy and really doesn't take that much time nor cost. Certainly this is true when compared to the time and cost of repairs due to freezing. Glad you did what you did and (I assume) even slept better at night knowing that you had protected your baby. Bill

Thank you for the recommendation of using a 1/4” socket. It made my work much easier.

You can bet on it!

Right now there are numerous Ollie Owners hitting the road towards the 2025 Rally. Please be safe out there and have fun while at the Rally. For the first time, I will not be attending this year but hope to se everyone in 2026. Bill

One of these years…

WOW!

A teaser…this evenings sunset at LGSP. Safe Travels everyone!

I feel the pinch too. Everything has gone up except my pay and I am still paying for two houses waiting for the bigger one to sell. Hopefully, the economy will get better after the election.

We have camped in ambient temps as low as 9 degrees F with the furnace running on propane (nearly full time to keep up). We pulled the outside shower head inside the hull by twisting it off, then putting it back on inside. Our remote thermometers in the belly of Hull #1291 reported temps down to 33 degrees F, but not below. No freeze damage. Whew! That said, I do not recommend camping in an Elite II in temps below 15 degrees F, to be safe. With lows in the 20s F, you should be o.k. with the furnace running. Towing an Elite II in sub-freezing temps is a different issue, as it is potentially dangerous to run the furnace on propane while on the road. And, your water heater is at risk unless you have a Truma with the antifreeze adapter. On the trip mentioned above, we did our travel mid-day, when temps were above 32 F, because we choose not to run the propane furnace unless we are parked.

Depends. Keep the belly warm. In our older ollie, we were good to teens, if it warmed above freezing daytime. 2008 doesn't have your insulation. We open accesses to the belly, and run heat. Me, if i know temps will be freezing/cold, I winterize, to avoid stress.