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Answers to your questions depend on you use case for mobile data: Some considerations and a quick table I made to show the differences... A key resource for all of us who are going to be mobile, and want to use internet on the road. This site was started by some previous Oliver owners...who were living the life of mobile technical writers. Since then, they've grown their YouTube and Blog on Mobile Internet into their main line of business. They do reviews of various types of BOOSTERS for CELL and WIFI and discuss the differences and why each is needed. They also describe many different use cases for RV's. From full time to part time, mobile workers to occasional travelers. They review and track the various data plans by Carrier, AT&T, Verizon etc...and tell which is the best value, has best coverage. Link below: https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/ C Short Hull 505 -Galway Girl

Good evening from Florida's beautiful Big Bend. We are new to the group our build date is scheduled for tomorrow. Picking up Hull 620 in mid April. Looking forward to beginning our Ollie journey!

Welcome! Exciting news for you! I can say this forum has been an immense help to us as I feel sure it will be to you. Lots of knowledge being passed forward here. Congrats on your build! David & Kathy

Yes, that is what I'm referring to. In talking to someone today I was told they prevent the springs from "walking" and therefore getting out of alignment with each other. Without, if they do get out of alignment you run the risk of breaking a [portion of a] spring.

We use our cell booster. It’s good for an extra bar or two when we’re not near a tower. We didn’t get the WiFi booster, Campground WiFi is usually saturated and we tend to camp where there isn’t wifi. We do have unlimited data plans on our phones and use them as wifi hotspots. The TV antenna is nice to have and we do use it occasionally. I installed a SiriusXM receiver in the trailer so we usually listen to our news and sports without the TV. Mike

I would look for another tech. If it was running before, his statement about "not enough wires running to ever work" is obviously bogus. I'd start looking for a more reputable repair shop.

I'd time how long it takes to open or close and ask others to compare that to their unit. I think you'll get better answers if you've got hard data to work from.

Hold the cover in place and turn counter-clockwise until you feel/hear the threads engage, then turn clockwise until snug.

THIS! Sales droids are hired to sell, they are very often self educated about their latest products, and if they have any previous sales knowledge, it may be for furniture or imported cars or for another brand of truck. Once you start asking towing specifics about gear ratios or payload, you can watch their eyes glaze and their smile becomes even more forced. You need to perform your own education, the sales guy is only there to show you the vehicles and give you directions on your test drive. Period. He does not even make the sales decision, remember that he is just a go between with the manager in the back room. So be polite, but remember his only function is to get you to drive away today in one of their vehicles. John Davies Spokane WA

For me is was easy a 1/2 crew cab pickup will do the job, just remember 1/2 tons will require a WDH and a 3/4 will not. I will say here from what I see at rallies, crew cab pickups are probably 75% of what is used as a tow vehicle. Personally I would not go with a mid-size pickup for towing, plus you will want to carry more then you think you will, and the back seat room is much smaller as well as the bed. 1/2 ton pickups will probably have the best rebates and there price in some cases will be less then a mid-size pickup. Just don't let a sales person talk you into something that is just ok. You might even try a county dealer, that is one that sells vehicles for towing (farming and ranching needs) they will most likely have a better selection of vehicles that can tow and there sales staff should know what works best for your needs. I went to a dealer that was 35 miles north of Ft. Worth and there stock was 75% towing trucks and priced to sell. I did go with a 4x4 as it will have a little heaver towing capacities, but not needs for towing an Oliver. trainman

Good advice above. One other idea to keep in mind, tow rating and payload will vary within models based upon trim level and tow package. You can't always depend upon a sales person to know the differences. Sometimes it can be a big difference. So will need to research yourself. Owners manuals, on-line references, and trailer life has a towing guide are good sources.

Any of the half tons would be fine if properly configured for towing. Things to consider: brake controller, size of gas tank and cargo capacity. If you pick up in April you need to get your TV early enough to have some miles on it before you tow.

I think they are pretty much all the same, the only thing that really matters at the end of the day is how much you payed for it. Pretty much every truck brand out there these days is ultra reliable, up to 250+ thousand miles or more, so the only things that should sway your decision is price, features, and creature comforts. For the money I'd say the Nissan Titan is probably one of the best new trucks that can tow up to 10k lbs. If you need more than that, the big three are pretty much the only options. There are way more options if you crack into the full size SUV game, but with that comes sacrifices to dirt friendly cargo space and added costs. I personally have a super bias, against Ford's, but I recognize that for what it is, rediculous mostly unfounded bias. I'm always one to recommend the extremely used market, but I'm mechanically savvy enough to fix small issues I run into ranging from o2 sensors to blown head gaskets and the like. Even if I didn't fix these things, paying a mechanic to fix a 1-5k dollar issue once every other year is still cheaper than an 80k dollar pickup.

Could that area be repaired, and maybe a larger metal plate be put on? Or course you are near the "mothership" and your insurance will cover it, why not...

Welcome! A good day to start a build. Hopefully you will be able to join us at the Owner's Rally in May and by that time you will be seasoned Ollie owners. Bill

The external Zamp SAE Plug on the side of Oliver directly connects to the Batteries. That means the suitcase (portable) solar panels will need their own controller as it doesn't connect to the Zamp Controller inside the trailer and used for the solar panels on the roof. If you were to use one of the Zamp suitcases the waterproof controller is included with the panel, and they come with the cable for connection with the Zamp SAE connectors and/or battery alligator clips. The Zamp branded Solar Ready sidewall port (SRRV) found on the Oliver are completely compatible with any Zamp portable solar panel. Not all SAE wired ports and portable briefcase solar panels have the same positive and negative connections. The polarity may be reversed when the solar panels connect with another brand of SAE quick connection extension cable or solar charge controller. Shown below is a ZAMP connector. This is this one is used to connect between the wall of the trailer and a Zamp Solar Battery Maintainer panel. (I'm including it so you can see what the SAE connector looks like and see that in a ZAMP connector they have RED wire the rubber covered connector and the black wire going to the exposed lug.) This protects users from contacting a + lug if they plug the connector into the Solar Panel first. The typical SAE plug (below) is reversed, and has the RED wire connected to the Exposed LUG, and Black goes to the rubber covered lug. As others mentioned, it's possible to find adapters from the Zamp SAE sidewall connectors to other brand connectors so it's not a huge issue...just a bit of research. In fact, Zamp sells the polarity reversing plug below for $9.99. (On sale for $4.99 at this time). So ...if and when you select the external panel...just make sure to get one that has it's own waterproof controller, and the proper connector/polarity adapter.

John, In the last photo we were not using a lock, but we use a 10' bicycle type heavy cable with padlock to the suitcase carry handle. The panel can be locked to Ollie or picnic table.