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Hi, I have a hard time getting the pin lined up to the hole when hooking up the whale tail.  Does anyone have a trick to simply get the ring holes lined up with the post hole so the pin slips in easily?  I use a rubber mallet to tap it, but even then, if it’s not lined up, it sometimes gets to be a struggle.

 

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So far, the best solution I've found is to create as much slack as possible in the tension chains. Easiest way for me to do that is to loosen the tension chain nuts. Then retighten once connected. Raising the rear of the TV with the jack when connected to the trailer will also create slack.

Ed and Nancy Burgin


2019 Ford F-150 Lariat, 3.5 EB w/max tow package

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When I was using the Andersen system I also loosened and tightened the chains to hitch and unhitch. I carried a 1/2 inch drive ratchet with a real 1-1/4 inch deep socket on it in the truck. Using the front jack to raise the rear of the tow vehicle puts a lot of wear and tear on that jack. 

Bill and Martha

2018 LEII Hull 313

2019 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax with a custom Turboencabulator modification 

 

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I drew a nice dark line on the socket,just before unhitching, I loosen 4 turns (ie start with line facing me, loosen to see the line return to the same spot 4 times).  After getting the ball back on and whale tale in place, I tighten to see the line return 4 times to the same spot.  I can always verify with threadcount as well.

The Jack should never be used to raise the tow vehicle, but it is fine to raise the trailer until just before the gap on top of the receiver disappears.  That is when the most slack (ie 0 weight on ball) in the chains is.

 

 

 

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2019 LE2 #529.   Standard Floorplan.

2020 GMC Sierra 2500 Duramax

 

 

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I use a "Die Bar" that I keep in my tow vehicle to align the pin holes. A 3/8th in. rod (20-24 inches long) would likely work and make sure you take some of the load off of the ball so the cone clutch slips.

This will work from any angle the TV has to the Trailer's hitch.

 

 

Legacy Elite I

#240

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Yep - all that stuff above.  Plus, I've recently given the whaletail pin a very light coating of grease/lube which always makes insertion easier 😁.

Bill

2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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51 minutes ago, WhatDa said:

The Jack should never be used to raise the tow vehicle, but it is fine to raise the trailer until just before the gap on top of the receiver disappears.  That is when the most slack (ie 0 weight on ball) in the chains is.

Is there a reason for this? The jack is rated for 3500 pounds. My tongue weight is less than 500. I routinely lift the back of my TV up QUITE a way, until I hear the jack start to slow down, to get a little extra chain slack (or ocassionally to level the trailer without having to disconnect it). It has never been a problem, the only thing I can imagine being a danger is if the coupler should somehow disconnect, but the forged Bulldog is extremely robust and quite capable of lifting some serious weight. I would never try this with a $20 stamped steel unit....

The static loads experienced by the coupler and hitch in this situation are really, really low compared to the normal dynamic shock loads of towing down a bumpy road. If you ever tow up a sudden "transition" grade, like onto a very steep driveway, the Andersen chains will actually lift the back of the truck way up. It is not really desirable, but it won't bust anything. For this reason a 4wd tow vehicle provides some security if the back tires break traction. (I was stuck completely on a slick main road for this very reason in a RWD Suburban with an 8500 pound trailer in tow, with an equalizer hitch. How very embarrassing!)

If I am playing Russian roulette, I would like to know the reason.... Thanks.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies
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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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34 minutes ago, John E Davies said:

Is there a reason for this? The jack is rated for 3500 pounds.

If I am playing Russian roulette, I would like to know the reason.... Thanks.

John Davies

Spokane WA

I agree with John on this.  I routinely lift the back of my truck with the trailer jack.  Not far, maybe an inch at most after the truck goes to normal level.  Usually, just until the chains have some slack.  It can’t be much weight.

I’ve found the key to easy hook up is to get the truck and trailer aligned.  Mike

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Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram 2500 Laramie 6.7L Cummins Diesel

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Maybe never wasn't the right word, but I was told to stop at gap closure when I picked up at the factory. I am able to get whaletale and pin aligned fine with the four spins and stopping the jack as the gap closes.

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2019 LE2 #529.   Standard Floorplan.

2020 GMC Sierra 2500 Duramax

 

 

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I think we need to understand that what the factory tells brand new owners is tempered by their extreme caution and liability concerns. Just like the sudden change from saying these three heavy duty jacks could be used to level the trailer, or raise a tire clear off the ground to change a flat, vs the new theory that all they can do is stabilize... Nothing about how the jacks are constructed or how they are mounted to the frame have changed, only the wording in the manuals. 

Use common sense, watch closely what your are doing, stop if something doesn’t look right, and think about consequences. 

John Davies

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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