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Sharing my modification to bring mudflaps closer to protect everything beyond the wheel well.

Went from 4 Trojan 6 Volt AGMs to 4 Battle Born 100Ah GC2s. Mounted a BMV-712 Victron in close proximity to the negative post of battery Mounted main fuse in close proximity to the positive post of battery Mounted main battery disconnect in close proximity to the positive post of battery Added a positive and negative bus bar and moved all cabling to inside the basement except for the 2 main 4/0 cables. (I was able to exchange main fuse with a positive bus bar using the same mounting area, then moved the fuse out to the positive post of the battery) I used bus bars to connect the 4 batteries in parallel A strip of flat PVC was used to insulate between bus bars

Sharing a modification to the receiver hitch that allows access to the spare tire without removing any part of the hitch, up-sized the receiver to 2 in, and heightens security against thief. It may not look like it, but the access to the sewer outlets is still functional.

Hello all, We've been Oliver owners since August 2019 (new to us, Hull #475) and we thought it was finally time to introduce ourselves! We're a couple in Minnesota who have enjoyed a few trips so far within our state and we're excited to bring it out of the state after this winter. I've always enjoyed the creative discussions on the forums and it's helped me make informed decisions for my Oliver. I've spent the winter making some modifications on our Elite II which I'll share in future for those that might find it interesting to see! Happy camping, Paul and Mary

John, Mounted the Renogy 20A waterproof solar controller in the battery compartment directly connected (fused) to the AGM batteries. Renogy does not recommend mounting the controller in an enclosed compartment with standard lead acid batteries. Since the battery compartment is vented and using AGM batteries, mounted the controller in the compartment with good results. This solar panel has been working great for years. Maximum charge rate seen so far with the 100W panel and controller located at the batteries is 6 amps using 35' of charge cord between the panel & controller, have seen battery full charge with this arrangement. This Renogy controller has several charge profiles including lithium & AGM batteries. Plan to use this arrangement with lithium batteries in the future, too. With 35' of cord and controller at battery location: The panel is in the sun in left portion of photo:

Mike, Beautiful installation! Here's the new tray assembly installed with two 12V group 27 AGM batteries and Renogy Solar Controller:

Here’s the final installation. Added a battery cut off switch on a spacer block I made out of PVC board. Used some thin foam to cover the door and some thicker foam that fits inside the weatherstripping. Plugged the vent holes with fiberglass plugs from Scubarx. Thanks to Ken Cvacho for the technical expertise and Steve Landrum for the plugs and advice. It was an Oliver community effort. Before: After:

Yeah I kinda went with the sales-pitchy too, but I can't blame anyone, really, because ... "Ohh! Shiny! Gadgets!" I will let you guys know re: Elec Pro Pkg, yea or nay or meh. D-DAY. Heh. Delivery Day. Jan 26. I am still running around trying to deal with all life has dealt me and thus have STILL not had time to watch very many of the OTT site videos. I HAVE tried to prioritize the time I have, and watch the ones I think I will need to know immediately. Like, that night in the cold campground, backing in, then "hooking up" for the first time with a dog bugging me. Dog (English Lab, speaks with accent) will be all, "WOT's oll LISS then? We're LEVVIN' in 'ere? Ya CON'T be seer-yuss. In this? This OIT-TEEN FOOT FOY-BUH-GLOSS MOO-ving lorry or wot evah? Right. I've got dibs on the BED. You lot, on the rug there." Fear not, good OTT Forumites. I am NOT leaving that OTT parking lot until I feel ok with driving, (you should hear my monologues while driving, even on a good day, heh), turning, backing up, hitching and unhitching. Srsly. They know I am new. I think the take-them-donuts idea will help. I sure hope so. NO one wants a n00b running loose on the highways or in the campgrounds. "Oh, so I plug this big cord into the water hose and flip the switch? Yes, that's what I remember reading." Zzzzt! No. I have common sense, just new to this. I can read. I can follow instructions. I will be ok. And thank you all again.

Ugh! In the beginning... the lead-acid battery *was* the voltage regulator. Now that modern battery technology has become somewhat independent of the traditionally accepted range of the nominal 12VDC we are used to, perhaps its time to suggest a design improvement... to include a "whole house" DC voltage regulator (or maybe just a voltage limiter) which feeds a master 12V "loads busbar", and connect all of the charging sources on the "battery side" of the new DC voltage regulator (i.e. to a "charging busbar"). Not sure where to find an affordable/efficient one with a capacity for maybe 100A (?) that doesn't generate too much heat and can be mounted in the already limited mechanical spaces available.

I have to ask if this isn't a purely theoretical problem. Is anyone aware of electrical equipment actually being damaged by lithium charge settings? I've never heard of it until now. I mean, my truck alternator bulk charges at 14.8, and I assume that's the same across all of Ford's lineup, meaning all those transit van conversions would be subject to this issue. My Maxx Fan has had issues as well, but the common denominator was that it's happened after being open in a light rain or snow (once plugged in, once not). I'm more apt to assume that they just have sketchy quality electronics and that one cause for failure is as good as the next.

Last August my MaxxFan started running at various speeds. It would start out running fine and then slow down after several hours. MaxxFan support help me conduct some testing and one of the things they noticed was the high voltage on the fan circuit. I installed a similar or same voltage regulator when I replaced the motor in September. I placed my voltage regulator in the attic after the fan breaker. And of course this happened after I installed the Battle Born batteries and the PDI lithium charger. It kinda like an 18 year old rebuilding a perfectly good motor to go faster and the rear end or transmission fails under the strain. And I think it reinforces my appreciation for the products Oliver Travel Trailers produce. When I as an owner decides to change any portion of the product they engineered and built, I can expect it to change something I didn’t anticipate. I think the best we can do is to continue to share our experiments, learn from our failures and celebrate our improvements. Mossey

I got the manual for the 9500 (Houghton 2801) today. Looks like it should work very nicely in our limited rooftop real estate. I can't seem to find a way to post the pdf on my phone, but if anyone wants to see the whole Houghton manual, you can send me a pm. The rep added me to a notification list for new inventory of units with the white shroud. 😃 I think it will look great on the roof, if they come back in stock before camping season for us! Thanks again, @Katanapilot. And Overland. Sherry

Clam tents are even easier to take down versus putting them up. I've got the small version of the Clam tent and it fits nicely in the closet of the Elite II, Bill

Shemrica, Just spent a the last few weeks travel NW to East through Texas. State Park system in Texas it terrific and I did purchase the Annual Pass at $70. You have to decided if its right for yourself... I used it not only for the camping discounts but no charge day passes for hiking. Capitol Rock great hiking and buffalo, Copper Breaks good hiking trails west of Dallas but both many not qualify for your distance to civilization. Ray Roberts north of Denton water front sites and Stephen F Austin Park west of Houston nature trails and new bathroom / shower facilities both close to civilization. I am take note of fore mentioned park for my return trip. Harvest Host also has some excellent options for over nights stops... stayed at an Alpaca Farm, Wine/Honey Farm, couple of breweries and museums... Tonight Lone Star Flight Museum for second stop with Tomorrow a Day at Houston Space Center. Availability gets tough on weekends at both Private and Public locations if last minute but there are lots of Cracker Barrel’s which make a better choice than Walmart for an over night. I have enjoyed Texas it is an awesome and diverse state. Enjoy!

Mike, Please forgive me for drifting from thread topic. John, Yes, they are solar MC4 connectors. They work fine for our application, but Anderson couplers looks well suited for rugged environments when you're boondocking.

I doubt it, too. I don't think there's that much difference in the price per amp hour across the range of available vendors. I haven't spoken to anyone at Oliver, so my guess may just be wishful thinking. Since lithionics builds custom batteries for various OEMs, my hope is that they'll build batteries that will fit the smaller Elite tray. There has been an increased interest this year in the smaller Elite, and Lifeblue didn't have a product to fit that tray.

The best choice for a hotspot device is somewhat dependent on the service provider. There's a lot of discussion about Verizon jetpack, but if you have AT&T, Sprint, or T-Mobile for example, the jetpack won't be the best solution. Here's a link that identifies the best wifi hotspot device for a given service provider: https://www.tomsguide.com/best-picks/best-mobile-hotspots

🙂 Your funny.....!

That is very slick. Is the 2” receiver aluminum? If so, can you share a link? It looks like this but with a much heavier wall thickness.....https://www.fayettedistribution.com/Andersen-2-1-2-to-2-Aluminum-Hitch-Reducer-p/3800.htm It is REALLY hard to locate a 2” bolt on receiver that isn’t steel. I would like to see a closeup of how it is attached please. I can’t figure out how you did it.... Do you have a pic of the unaltered Ollie hitch? I haven’t actually seen one. Does the receiver still clear the ground when going over a dip? It looks as if the crossmember underneath would drag first. Thanks, John Davies Spokane WA

Amazon has lots of choices in fixed and adjustable voltage regulators if I remember correctly. Mossey

Here you go . . . . bathroom door opening width 19 1/4" . . . . . back of dinette cushion to edge of table 18 3/4". We did the same, arranged for a tour of an Elite II twin before purchasing, to make sure my 6'2" husband "fit" the twin bed.

I'd buy one if you have any interest in making more!

I’m sorry you used that page as a reference, it is so VERY wrong. I posted a comment about the price down at the Comments section, long ago. The page has still not been corrected. Used Olivers hold their value extremely well, especially in this very strange Covid situation, you won’t find a cheap used one. Maybe after everybody is well again, the economy recovers and people are not so frantic to buy an RV, the used price will drop. But it won’t be by a lot. John Davies Spokane WA

We went behind the fuse panel and started testing wires until we found the fans. Then, we cut it and inserted the voltage regulator. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WFMKMV9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Try THIS ONE. It is the 4 sided model. Bill

We just finished the installation and we won’t be camping until next week. I don’t have a spare right now, so if this one fails while we’re out I‘ll just bypass. It probably wouldn’t hurt to get a spare. Mike

I would be interested to see a wiring diagram, did you just dig around in the big wire bundle below the fuses to find the fan positive wire, and splice into it there? or did you go directly into the fuse panel somehow? Use a fuse tap? Got a link to that regulator or must I start searching?😬 If my furnace board is fried, I think it would make sense to protect the replacement from spikes and over voltage. Is the DC output of this device pretty stable? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

Do you carry a spare or would you bypass in event of a failure? Mike

Are you kidding me? That's one nice clean job! You for hire? Bill

You have indeed had a busy Minnesota winter. And it's only January !

Like @mountainoliver, we installed the same voltage regulator for the two ceiling fans (since he was helping me!). I also installed a battery cutoff switch and have only turned it on/off a few times, mainly for testing, with no issues. It might not be a bad idea to use one for the furnace, too. They aren’t very expensive. Mike

Hi Henry, welcome to the forum. If you intend to use your Oliver in Europe have you considered the differences in electricity, fittings for connecting to both water and electricity and differences in European hitches and North American hitches? Also, an Oliver is significantly heavier than a similar sized European caravan. When we lived in Europe (Belgium, France and Germany) I was amazed at seemingly large trailers being towed by relatively small vehicles! Mike

Note that - the smaller Clam tent is great for one person and comfortable for two. Three can fit but four gets really crowded and five is standing room only! Bill 😃

Like Overland, I’ve got a shade that attaches to the awning. If the weather is bad we use our Clam, sometimes with a fire pit. Here’s what @ScubaRx has - I believe it is made by Fiama to fit our Fiama awnings. This was at Quartzsite a few years ago. It’s time consuming to put up and tear down. Our shade attached to the awning.

Paul & Mary - Welcome and I'm glad that you have decided to "show" yourself. From a quick look at your post about your mud flap mod I'd say that not only are you talented but you do great looking work. Can't wait to see what else you've got up your sleeve. Bill

When I changed out my lead acid batteries with three Battle Born batteries a few months ago, I added a voltage regulator (shown below) to the Maxxfan and bath fan circuit for that very reason. The Maxxfan control board is not known for over voltage reliability. But I have not had any trouble with the other control boards. Actually the only one that is stock is the furnace board. I replaced the water heater board with a Dinosaur board a couple years ago and the compressor fridge can handle 12-24 volts DC or 110-220volts (50-60 HZ) AC. I think that relatively inexpensive voltage regulators are available that could handle the furnace and would be much less expensive than a new control board, but not sure?

Maybe I misunderstood your original post, but are you thinking you can get a Legacy Elite II for between 20K and 40k? Dollars? Even if you’re talking Euros, 40k isn’t enough for an Elite II.

Doubling the space is nice, but I find that without the walls, the space is even bigger. We added this 1.6 million acre outside room just this past fall. Very easy to set up. Seriously, though, I believe that @ScubaRx used to have the Fiamma outdoor room, which seemed pretty nice. Maybe they still do. I suspect that to make one worth the effort of setting up and taking down, you have to be in one spot for a while and in conditions that warrant an enclosure. A simpler solution for windy conditions or for privacy, is just a sun screen across the front. We travel with one, though admittedly have only used it a few times. Again, it's rarely worth the trouble of setting up. Plus it blocks the views.

I swapped out the original fridge board with a Dinosaur, but that was for a Dometic board failure unrelated to higher Li charging voltages (was using 4xAGMs then). I am happy with the Dinosaur board's performance so far (1+ year) with Li (Battleborn) since October. I would imagine that the solar charger outputs are over 14.2v at times as well???

I have not heard any updates from Jason but was going to reach out to see what's up on his end. We are going on a trip to New Hampshire for a few days of skiing. Should be plenty of chance to continue testing my new settings. Will share anything of value that I come up with.

Oliver uses both LifeBlue and Lithionics as a battery supplier now.

Wow, that was a fast switch of Lithium vendors. I'm curious when this change will occur as well although I'm way more concerned now as an owner of LifeBlue batteries. What else has Oliver found in addition to the overheating problem with the cold temp version that has made them switch so fast? Could be cost alone but I doubt it. If I were in the queue for a new Oliver right now and had this new information, I'd be seriously considering what many other owners have done - skip the Lithium from OTT and install your own in a few years when the AGMs die.

. . . . . . and I believe the Jet pack has a better antenna than most cell phones. We have US Cellular . . . . . MiFi. That being said, you might not notice as much increase in signal strength with the cell booster and the jet pack as you will with the cell booster and phone. Our 2021 Elite II came with SureCall Fusion2Go 3.0 Cell phone amplifier. The manual is on page 188 of the Optional Features Component manual.

Very nice! I like that the ground is switched.

This video explains the issue of interference between after market accessories and the TPMS systems. Before I retired, I worked for 40 years in a Test Equiment and Solutions business that provider Radio Frequency monitoring and testing systems to customers doing EMI and RFI emissions tests. (Like the FCC , and almost all radio manufacturers. If the USB device I installed causes issues, I’ll yank it out and take it back to my Local Office and run an RFI test and let you all see the results. CS

This would be an ideal use of a panel mounted fuse holder (probably under the rear dinette seat) visible from the trailer cabin. In particular a fuse holder that lights up when the fuse is blown. Periodic testing would be more important with a fuse installed in the emergency brake power wire.

Oliver is now beginning to use three 130 AH batteries (390 AH total) as part of the lithium package. Listed below are the storage requirements from the Lithionics website (https://lithionicsbattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/Lithionics-Battery-Storage-Procedure.pdf -- my additions are in red text). LifeBlue batteries likely have similar storage requirements. These are storage requirements; the lithionics batteries have a charging range of 32°F to 113°F, and a discharge temperature range of -4°F to 113°F. In other words, when the batteries are in use (e.g., when traveling) they can handle a broader temperature range than when in storage. After much back and forth, I have decided to order the lithium package. Here's why: (1) there is ample charge for several cloudy days at our anticipated daily use (probably between 75 and 100 AH per day) to last for several cloudy days; (2) there is ample battery capacity for occasional, short duration A/C use (perhaps for an hour at 100 AH per hour), although this will likely require supplemental charging from non-solar sources); (3) the lithium package comes with the 3000 W inverter, which allows A/C use at rest stops; (4) I've satisfied myself that I will generally be within the operating and storage temperature ranges; (5) lithium batteries charge more quickly than other battery types from generator or shore power; (6) lithium batteries reduce trailer weight; (7) at least in theory, lithium batteries will last longer; and finally (8) it is done, the system is built, I won't (hopefully) need to upgrade soon, and I can simply use the system. Yes, the lithium batteries do require some attention, especially in exceptionally hot or cold climates (e.g., during extended visits with BackofBeyond's sons). However, here in the arid west where temperatures are typically less than 105°F, and generally greater than 0°F, it should be OK. If it looks like the temperatures will be excessively high or low during times of storage, I can remove the batteries from the trailer and keep them in a conditioned environment: each individual battery weighs about 40 pounds. Another alternative would be to purchase the solar/AGM package and wait for lithium battery prices to fall. However, the solar/AGM packages only comes with the 2000 W inverter. Future upgrades to lithium with the intention of occasional A/C use would require a new, larger inverter. Another reason to perhaps delay going with lithium now is that future lithium battery packages may have greater capacity (e.g., 500 or 600+ AH). However, charging this size of battery (the initial cost of which will likely be expensive) would probably require the use of shore or generator power; there is insufficient charge current available from the existing (340W) rooftop solar system to charge a mostly discharged 600 AH battery pack in a reasonable amount of time. A general rule of thumb might be to have ~1.5 watts of solar panel for every AH of battery capacity (thanks for this, Overland). Thus, 390 AH battery (as is offered in Oliver's current lithium package) is perhaps sufficiently right-sized for the current 340W rooftop solar array (especially if using a 100W or 200W portable panel in conjunction with the 340W rooftop solar). Lacking additional solar, additional charging capacity has to come from the TV, generator, or shore power. If the goal is to reduce or minimize generator use (or shore-power reliance), there's an argument to be made for not oversizing the battery. (Actually, thanks to Overland for helping frame this entire bigger-battery-is-perhaps-not-better perspective.) In summary, I am not in the more tech-savvy group among you (although I feel like I'm confused now at a higher level than when I was before -- that's progress). Nonetheless, I am grateful that Oliver is offering a lithium package, even if the implementation is still evolving. I'm looking forward to giving it a try. quirements

Sher, I sent you a pm.

For grins and giggles here is a Ford dealers explanation of their different trailer tow packages. The regular tow package is what I have and is "ok" for the LEII. Post sale, I installed the max pkg FORD OEM trailer brake controller myself....an easy mod....just had learn how to mod the software. I do not have and I think I will miss having the larger gas capacity. *********************************************************************************************** What is the Ford Max Tow Package? June 12th, 2020 by Evan Riley Many of our customers at Kings Ford in Cincinnati, OH, who are looking at Ford trucks for sale are interested in using their vehicle for towing. Ford trucks are all excellent choices for this sort of work, but determining exactly which configuration and packages are right for you can sometimes be confusing. Perhaps the question we get most often is: what is the Ford Max Tow Package? And how is it different from the standard Trailer Tow Package? If you are one of the people who have this question, this post is for you. We will lay out all the differences so that when you are ready to purchase one of our Ford trucks for sale, you will know exactly which towing package is right for you. The first piece of information that you should know is that the Ford Max Tow Package (or Max Trailer Tow Package as it is officially known) is only an option on the Ford F-150 series trucks. For the Ford Ranger, there is only a basic Trailer Tow Package that adds a hitch and 4/7 pin connector as well as increases the tow rating. With the Ford Super Duty trucks, all models come ready to tow from the factory with a hitch and 4/7 pin connector. However, they do have specialized tow packages for campers and gooseneck trailers. So if a Ford Ranger can handle your towing needs, or if your trailer requires the extra might of a Ford Super Duty truck, then deciding which tow package you need is a straightforward matter. However, most of our customers are interested in the Ford F-150 and will need to decide between the Trailer Tow Package and the Max Tow Package. The differences between these two packages are not obvious, and you will probably not be able to tell which package is present on a Ford truck without referencing the build sheet. However, once you hook a trailer up to your vehicle, those hidden differences will soon become quite apparent. The Trailer Tow Package The basic Ford Trailer Tow Package is actually not that basic. It, of course, comes with the obvious Class IV trailer hitch and standard 4/7-pin wiring harness to connect your trailer. However, the package also includes numerous less obvious features to improve your trailering experience. For instance, on every engine except the base 3.3L V6, the Trailer Tow Package also adds an engine oil cooler to keep the truck from overheating under the heavier strain of towing. Other mechanical upgrades include a heavier front stabilizer bar and, on some models, an auxiliary transmission oil cooler. Finally, the package adds a tailgate LED that makes hitching a trailer in the dark a much easier experience. Altogether, these upgrades mean that an F-150 with the Trailer Tow Package is a far more capable vehicle than one that has simply had a hitch and wiring added later. So if you are looking at Ford trucks for sale with the intention of adding towing capability down the road, be aware that spending the money on a factory tow package will get you far more value for your dollar. However, the Trailer Tow Package does not stop with physical upgrades to the truck and also adds two valuable electronic features. These are Pro Trailer Backup Assist and Smart Trailer Tow Connector. While a good mechanic could replicate the mechanical additions of the Trailer Tow Package, these integrated electronic upgrades are only available from the factory. Pro Trailer Backup Assist is designed to make reversing with a trailer attached a far simpler and more intuitive task. When this feature is activated, and the truck is put in reverse, steering is performed with an auxiliary knob on the dashboard instead of the steering wheel. Simply turn the knob in the direction that you want to go, and the computer will figure out the necessary steering inputs to get you there while monitoring your trailer through the backup camera. This not only makes maneuvering with a trailer a breeze; it means that you will never again need to stop and think about which way to turn the wheel to keep from backing into something. The second electronic system included in the Trailer Tow Package is less evident to the driver but just as valuable. Smart Trailer Tow Connector monitors the electrical systems in any trailer plugged into your truck and displays relevant information right in your instrument cluster. This will let you know if your trailer has any burned out lights or if its batteries are running low, preventing any unpleasant surprises while you are out on the road. Along with Pro Trailer Backup Assist, these advanced electronic features more than justify purchasing a Ford F-150 with the Trailer Tow Package if you have any desire to pull a trailer in the future. The Max Tow Package If you are looking at Ford trucks for sale specifically for something to tow trailers, then even the basic Trailer Tow Package might not be enough for you. In that case, look for an F-150 with the Max Trailer Tow Package. This improved towing package includes all the mechanical and electronic features found in the starting towing package, from the engine oil cooler and upgraded stabilizer bar to Pro Trailer Backup Assist and Smart Trailer Tow Connector. But it also adds some extra features that are particularly valuable for pulling heavier trailers longer distances. The single most significant change included in the Max Tow Package is the upgrade to an electronic-locking rear axle with a 3.55 gear ratio. The addition of an electronic-locking rear axle means that power will be directed evenly to both rear wheels, significantly improving traction on poor surfaces. If you are in mud or snow, this might be the difference between getting your trailer moving or not. While the larger 3.55 gear ratio is not as large an improvement as the electronic-locking rear axle, stepping up from the standard 3.15 or 3.31 will provide more effective torque and help you get a heavy trailer moving more efficiently. If the Max Tow Package is combined with the Heavy-Duty Payload Package, then this will be further upgraded to a 3.73 gear ratio. Two other physical changes included in the Max Tow Package are a larger fuel tank and an upgraded rear bumper. While the base Ford F-150 has either a 23-gallon or 26-gallon fuel tank, trucks equipped with the Max Tow Package have a 36-gallon fuel tank. Increasing fuel capacity by almost 50% is not only important because pulling a large and heavy trailer will result in higher fuel consumption, but because needing to stop for gas with a trailer attached can be a hassle that is better avoided. Finally, the Ford Max Tow Package includes the Integrated Trailer Brake Controller. This electronic system not only connects your trailer’s brakes to the brake pedal in your truck, but it also allows you to adjust just how much brake force your trailer is applying on the fly from a switch on the dashboard. This valuable system makes stopping with a trailer much simpler and safer. And with its adjustability, you can easily get your trailer to behave the same way, no matter if it is empty or fully-loaded. Further improving safety, if the connection to the trailer is lost, your truck will immediately alert you with a warning chime and a message in your instrument cluster. Overall, the Max Tow Package is a valuable upgrade over the already feature-rich Trailer Tow Package. It is a vital addition to any Ford F-150 that will often be used for towing. We hope this post has answered your question of what is the Ford Max Tow Package and given you insight into which of our many Ford trucks for sale is the right choice for your towing needs. If you have any more questions or wish to test out some of these advanced features for yourself, stop by Kings Ford and let our friendly sales team help you out. *******************************************************

If I were looking today, I'd probably look at Renogy. Decent pricing, decent history. Probably half the price of the Zamp, or less. Don't get me wrong. Zamp makes excellent, exceptional panels. Just pricey, imo, for a portable item. We have used a cheap Coleman 100 watt rigid panel for a few years, with a "support" made from leftover pvc. It's not highly efficient, but I'm not out much if someone decides they need it more than I do. I think it was $120 or less, on costco. So cheap, that I bought one for us, and one for my sister. Came with a little, cheap controller (which we don'tuse, but it works.) I have one friend who uses a flexible panel and a portable waterproof controller. They slide it under the mattress for travel. If I were to do that, I'd look for a deal on Sunpower. And build a pvc frame. Not my idea of a great setup, but others have used it with some success, and they're happy. Very light.