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Link to Catalog A lot of great ideas and craft have come together to get this catalog update ready. New products, new choices in wood, and new finishes to match Oliver’s décor options. I have used the most common questions about my craft to layout this catalog and help you decide what your style is and fits your needs. I now have a new email address for orders and questions – FoyablesInWood@gmail.com. Lastly – as we all have seen around us my prices have increased. Everything from wood, finishes, supplies, and freight has jumped in the last 4 months. If you have an order place with me, your grandfathered into the old pricing. All orders from October 1st are under this new pricing structure. Onward, Foy 517933762_FoyblesCatalogV3.1f.pdf

We have spent the last two nights in our trailer and it has been very enjoyable. Picked up #905 on the 29th and stayed in the lot for a night and the second night out at the Merriwether Lewis State park to test out no hookups. Good results so far. Jason Lindsey has really helped us out. We have been in contact trying to make the big step since early 2019. We also had a great gal giving us the orientation on the trailer. Hannah was knowledgeable, very thorough,and just a real nice person to talk with. We really enjoyed the walk through with her. Thank you Oliver !!! It feel like just what I thought. A quality product easy to start our adventures in. All the Forum folks contributing info I truly thank you and will use you in the future. Sincerely. Tina and Mike Locker. Dream Girl is what I call our trailer and my Wife Tina !!!!!

As with a bunch of things - "the devil is in the details". A really nice job of connecting all those ground wires to the bus bar spoiled by not connecting one more. I suspect that the Zamp solar port was installed later. Certainly this is no excuse for missing the Zamp connection. If you haven't already done so - please forward an email to Jason Essary with the pictures above. Both Production and Service have quality control checklists that this issue should be added to. Bill

“Though I'm also mostly recalling it from the elevated highway days” In those days that would have been a terrifying route choice. Today it’s just a bold route choice.

We were headed north on 285 between Clines Corners and Santa Fe, NM today and spotted an Elite II heading south. It had a blue butterfly logo on the front. I know I’ve seen that logo before but can’t remember who it is. We also saw several Casitas, 2 Scamps and 15 or 20 Airstreams all heading south. We were getting worried that we were heading north into some kind of trouble! We’re camped outside of Durango and all is well…. Mike

HH Desert Lakes Golf Course in Alamogordo, NM. Nice spot in corner of parking lot overlooking the 18th hole at sunset. We had breakfast at the clubhouse the next morning before heading out.

The mobile unit 2 is headed back to the nest to have the battery/solar/electric upgraded. First stop: Kettletown Campground in CT.

Something else you may want to do is replace the Zamp port screws with pan head #6-1/2" stainless steel screws. Mine rusted and were starting to leave orange rust stains on the hull.

Hi All RE: Boston area travel tips As someone that has lived in downtown Boston and surrounding suburbia since 1985. Here are some travel tips: 1. Peak traffic. Starts 3pm-7pm 2. Avoid Fri. Sat, Sun. 3. What's new? Thu is the new Fri. Often worse Thu 3pm-7pm May-Sep 4. Tech. Use GPS to plot alternate routes. Example Rt 495 5. Example: Take Rt 95 around the city instead Rt 93 thru the city 6. Solution: Travel off peak and you will increase your probability of free passage 7. Tech. Get a free EZ Pass transponder if you are a regular 8. Beaches=density. That's Cranes in Ipswich going north Rt 95 and Duxbury on Rt 3 going south 9. Rain=Add an hour 10. Caveat Emptor: Despite what the bumper stickers say..."There is no Cape Cod Tunnel". Add: 2 hours May-Sep during Fri, Sat, Sun. 11.Local Tip: go off peak 5-6am and 8-9pm and you may sail thru. That's what we do. 12. Consider: White Lake in Tamworth NH. Burlingame in Charlestown RI Ping me if I can help in any way

My Ollie is a 2018 version with Duralast L.A. batteries. We are 50% boondocking and 50% shore power. We are on the road over 90 days a year. Our Duralast batteries have survived and performed well through 4 seasons. Over winter, they are stored in the battery bay in a barn on top of an Oklahoma mountain. Gets plenty cold there, but so far , the bad cold (Below 10 degrees for over a week) has not hurt them. Point is just disconnecting them from Ollie and keeping them on a 2 or 3 watt battery tender seems to have worked very well. If we were in a real cold area, I would consider a 10 watt light bulb set on a thermostat placed in the battery bay. Also, would for sure insulate the door as many of our owners have.

HH Ice Caves & Bandera Volcanos near Grant, NM. Was a great place to dry camp one night. We did a hike the next morning before pulling out.

I made a sheet metal box to fit in the space but not hit or rub on any wires or tubing. It is suspended from the flange so it can not drop down. It is easy to remove and reinstall.

Something like this: Or how about this: As you can tell - I'm not a graphic designer and maybe a nice pen and ink would be better/clearer than a picture. A company called Vistaprint can get you one of these for $4.00 in the bumper sticker size. Bill

Dream Girl - Note that if you are still at Merriwether Lewis, you can get water at the drinking fountain that is in front of the restrooms in the camping area. That fountain has a spigot on it about half way down. Bill

Chris, just go to your local industrial bearing supplier, ask for genuine Timken seals and bearing SETS (bearing and race matched pairs) for a standard Dexter 3500 pound trailer axle, they know exactly what is needed. Buy four extra inner seals to carry as spares. buy some extra cotter pins. Then you are good to go. This is not rocket science, these parts are ubiquitous, but finding high quality parts is the real problem, not Chinese crap with zero quality control, or worse yet, Timken branded counterfeits. The bearing store will have the genuine ones. A bearing or seal with Dexter stamped on it is crap too. Use Redline CV2 and repack every 12K to 15K miles. There is NO need to repack more often if you keep an eye on bearing temperatures. IMHO. Boat trailers need that frequent servicing because they get dunked into deep water while the hubs are warm, and the sudden drop in pressure sucks water in past the seal, contaminating the grease. I don’t think this is an issue with your Ollie. Use high quality parts, and a high quality lubricant, no worries. You do need to recheck your hub bearing play after say 1000 miles, the new races can shift ever so slightly and you may need to tighten one more slot on the adjuster nut. I rechecked mine and three of the four needed a little extra tweak. FYI you can remove and drive in races and seals with a big hammer and an old screwdriver, but proper tools make the job SO much easier, and you will not swear nearly as much. A seal puller, bushing driver set and an axle cap tool are great to have, if you have room to carry them. Buy this for sure, check prices because they vary wildly: … If you also buy a water heater pressure relief valve removal socket, you can nest the two parts, wrap them in movers stretch wrap (U-Haul), and they don’t take up much space at all. John Davies Spokane WA

Our 2 dogs have a combined weight of about 35 pounds, but I did have the pleasure of sharing 7 years of my life with a 150 pound Irish Wolfhound. But that was in the 70's and before Ollie's. I don’t have any real world experience with sharing an Ollie with a large dog, but I think most dog owners would do anything necessary to accommodate their best friends. Our dog is movement and other animal reactive, so we like campsites on the perimeter of campgrounds to reduce his stimulation. Our female is 15 and pretty much blind and mostly deaf and can’t get in or out of the Ollie by herself and we carry her in and out. I’m sure you’ll adjust and make it work just like you do anywhere else. Mossey

Here's my .02 on the subject... Our "giant" black lab (100+ lbs) camps with us quite a bit and he is fine sleeping on the floor in between the two twin beds. This is despite the fact that we set up the dinette bed just for him. 🙂 Once you have one giant dog, I really don't think two would be a huge difference since there's still plenty of room on the floor and dinette bed. Just adjustments as @SeaDawgmentions... for example, getting up to go to the bathroom at night with a giant dog laying in the hallway keeps everyone agile. Having two on the floor would just make the obstacle course to the bathroom longer. 😉 We also don't ever hang out inside during the day, even if it's raining - I think that would be challenging after a while with any animal (including humans).

It seems that Oliver standards are slipping a little bit. When we took delivery our trailer was filthy. If I purchased a $75000 car it would be shining when I drove it off the lot. After I got to Davie Crockett I noticed the bumper on the door was loose. It was attached with a single screw through the thin sheet metal door. The latch to hold the door open was through bolted with an aluminum backer plate. Why the bumper wasn't done in a similar way makes no sense. I rectified it when I got home.

A friend is camping with us tomorrow with a really big lab. We'll see how it goes. I know from history, it's doable. Dogs and humans must adjust. Our dog is tiny.

Our 2008 le, shorty, is set up in bed mode, all the time. I'm really not sure where the pedestal leg is anymore, for the big dinette. As @ADKCamper said, we are totally ok with the smaller crawl-over bed but not everyone is. The tradeoffs for us are great. Again, everyone has different ideas,, and camping styles. I'm the one in the inside against the hull spot, so I can tell you, it's not a big deal for me. If that's not ok for you,, I'd look at the bigger le ii, and twin beds. Towing the smaller LE opens up a range of tow vehicles. Towing the bigger II requires a half ton, and Anderson, or bigger truck . Take your pick. We've camped in vans in Australia and lceland with beds in the 42 to 48 inch width bed, rentals in foreign countries. . Not my cup of tea, for permanent, but doable, for a month or so. In those cases, I took adventure over comfort. My Eite I offers both, imo. With a wider, better bed. Not a queen, more double or full, in the shorty. When I can no longer crawl over my husband on the rare occasion, I will reconsider.

I would’ve done the same…after having a discussion about misleading sales tactics and wasting my time with the manager.

We have a 2018 LE and like quite a few others, we leave the larger rear dinette in its "bed" configuration. So far we have been using the factory cushions for the bed, with a mattress topper over them. We didn't want to setup and tear down the dinette every day when traveling. The bed is 2" narrower than a full/double mattress and you sleep cross-ways, so the person closest to the rear window has to climb over their partner if they need to get up in the middle of the night. For us, a small inconvenience in exchange for the smaller trailer for easier towing and access to tighter campsites. There are several bed configuration options in the LE II, a little more headroom and more available storage space... so quite a few puts 'n takes to trade off against your own camping style, interest and capabilities. We've been camping for decades, working our way through backpacking & canoe camping, tent camping out of the car trunk, pop-up trailers and now the LE for the two of us and an occasional grand-kid. Someone above recommended the factory tour, which is a GREAT experience if you think you might be interested in an Ollie and can get yourself to TN. Also as mentioned, many Ollie owners are more than willing to show off their trailer to potentially interested customers, discuss their own personal post-purchase modifications/add-ons and experiences with towing, maintenance, options selected, etc. If that's something you might be interested in just call the sales office and they can match you up with a near-by owner of the model you're considering. Best of luck with your research!

1 Up USA “Super Duty” bike rack installed. A fine product including fit and finish. Mounted to Oliver bike rack. Rack folded up when not in use.

Sounds like more space for wine, to me.

Been packing all of our trailer bearings with Redline CV-2 Full Synthetic grease for a few years, we have four trailers including Ollie, no bearing issues.

I have for over 45 years of RV Towing experience, plus another 50 years in the "Heavy Duty Truck Industry" severing in both Service/Sales related jobs, in the USA as well as eight years overseas. One thing I've learned is that you never stop learning! Today's RVs and TVs are much different and better in many ways than ever before. However, there is no Substitute for a properly Balanced TV and Trailer combination! All the fancy Air Suspensions and Electronic Brake/Towing Stabilization Systems can't make you Safer by themselves. I assume your question is "centered around Safety" and "Handling" issues! Judging from how you asked the question, I am sure you have heard all kinds of things regarding WDH. IMO, the best WDHs are either the Hensley or the ProPride Hitches. The reason is simple, these are the only WDH that can eliminate Trailer Sway, almost 100%! Unfortunately they cannot be installed on an Oliver without substantial modifications. The bottom line is, the Andersen WDH is the only options, other than no WDH at all. Many RVERs assume that because your TV maybe able to carry the additional Rear Load and their TV is equipped with some type of magical Electronic System, they don't need a WDH. They can help, but they are still only Aids. To answer your question directly, there is no situation that I can think of, that I would be comfortable Towing any RV Trailer, regardless of Type/Size/weight without some type of either a WDH or Sway Control device!

Both of our 1500 5.7’s towed fine in the mountains. One had a 10,400 lbs capacity and the latest was a Rebel with a 9,000 lbs capacity. You have to get used to some higher RPM’s when going uphill, but we never had any issues staying at speed or any overheating issues. That includes up and down highway 550 (million dollar highway) in Colorado. I knew I was always at or near the limit of my cargo capacity, but the 1500 towed fine, was comfortable and reliable. Mike

This is pretty bad for storing just about anything hard, I had been using a bunch of loose foam sheets to pad the wires and plumbing. I made strips from 1" thick Dow Corning R5 rigid foam board from Home Depot. It can be cut with a SHARP knife and dressed smooth with a bench top belt sander. Wear a dust mask! I used 3 mil aluminum HVAC tape to secure it. The frame member got 2" total thickness, the outside got 2.5" to make it level side to side. The black tank rinse plumbing has been bugging me for years, so I removed it completely (Natures Head toilet!) And capped the bottom fitting with a1/2" FPT Cap, so nobody could accidentally flood the interior: I cut out a tray and it just rests there, so access underneath is not an issue. Here is the area stuffed fairly full, it all lies nice and flat. The material is not especially strong, but it weighs absolutely nothing and is easily replaced if it gets damaged. Plus it is fire retardant. If you wanted it to look nicer you could cover the entire top with the aluminum tape. The material is however 100% waterproof. I tested that by submerging a piece in a glass of water for 12 hours. No worries! John Davies Spokane WA

I am sure the Timken grease is really good, and also really expensive. But it is still a regular lithium based product, with all the limitations that come with that kind of chemistry. If you are going to invest in a premium brand of lubricant, you should probably get the most premium one available. I have been using CV2 in just about everything for several years now, and I am not going back. I used to pay $14 for a dinky 3 ounce tube of special Phil Wood bicycle bearing grease, for just $2 more I get 14 ounces, so now I just use the Redline. John Davies Spokane WA

I would be really interested in a set of genuine Timkens for $5.00 .... i am pretty sure that those are counterfeit. Amazon and everywhere else is awash with fake bearings. Can you please post a link to that Amazon page? Thanks, John Davies Spokane WA