Leaderboard

You may have already checked this possibility out but if not, you may want to check the wiring on the back of your thermostat. The wire to the furnace fan seems to be working fine but if your thermostat has a separate wire that goes to the furnace igniter, this wire connection could possibly be loose or corroded. In that case, you will get higher resistance across the wire terminal on the back of the thermostat. It could be that 12.7 volts from the battery is insufficient to overcome this higher resistance. When you plug into shore power, the converter (or inverter/charger) will immediately send 13.4 volts or more to the battery and will pass that higher voltage through to all the 12 volt circuits in the trailer including the thermostat. This may be just enough of a voltage increase to overcome the resistance of a bad thermostat connection and would explain why the furnace works on shore power and in warmer weather. It is a long shot, but cleaning and re-tightening the wiring connections on the back of the thermostat might solve your problem. If nothing else, it rules out yet one more possibility.

I think this is fine, but I would prefer to see a new “Vendors” sub forum for threads like this. Mainly so that it is obvious that it is a commercial thread rather than private opinion and knowledge. John Davies Spokane WA

I'd add to JD's post above that it is a fairly easy and relatively inexpensive mod to simply go down to Lowe's, Home Depot, or ACE and grab five or six lengths of 1/2 inch pipe insulation (like THIS) and cover any and all pipes that you can get to. Not only will you reduce noise but you will also get hotter water and get a degree or two additional protection from freezing pipes in cold weather. Bill

We have had a number of "vendors" as members here in the past. Off the top of my head there is/was Andersen, MicroAir, and the fellow that produced the laser cut plastic protection plate for the Dometic fridges (Tractors1). Frankly, I wish that all of the Oliver vendors would be on the Forum so that we had direct access to help via this platform when we need it and/or to get questions answered. I too am looking forward to seeing ScubaRx's #50. Bill

JD... Thanks, I was looking up what was used for our 2020 LE II, a "Pentair Shurflo 4008 RV revolution by-pass pump 4008-101-E65", and before i sorted-out all that popped up on AMAZON, you provided the link. in case i wanted to make another purchase "before" our next outing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010TKMK4O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You will also need a couple of blue butt splices and a crimper/ stripper, and cable ties. I just changed mine a few days ago. John Davies Spokane WA

We did speak with Oliver and were encouraged and given permission to make a post on the forum, there have also been quite a few people that have encouraged us to make a post here as well to reach the audience that isn't on Facebook. I hope I'm not intruding on anyone or breaking any guidelines.

One other thing to check is whether any water lines are touching, or very close to touching, any nearby hard surfaces. Wiggle all lines by hand to see if they can hit. Use cable ties where needed to secure them. I used pieces of water pipe insulation tubing, cut and laid flat, and slipped them into a couple of “tight” spots. They did not even need tape or glue. John Davies Spokane WA

I agree with Bill. with one additional step. 4 - You may want to do again after a couple of water fill-ups, on the road. After (new) pick-up, and after reading about the same topic in a different thread we found plastic bits in the inline filter basket. After a few weeks on the road and some additional fill-ups i checked it again and had fewer plastic bits. After the third check, we were good. I will continue check again every 3-5 fill-ups. B- Out.

Hey everyone! My name is Colin Rafferty. My partner, Gavin Luthringer, and I own a detailing company based out of Murfreesboro, Tennessee called CGI Detailing. Some of you may already be familiar with us or may have already heard of us. We will be sponsoring the rally this may and look forward to meeting some of you. A little back story of what we do. Gavin and I started CGI Detailing as Juniors in high school when we lived in Michigan. After high school we moved to Tennessee to attend Middle Tennessee State University. As we built CGI we always craved something a little more unique than cars, then we got the chance to detail an Oliver. After detailing our first Oliver we were hooked, the Unique design, amazing community, and the excitement it brought to the owners was all it took. The team at CGI Detailing has recently decided to start traveling to other states around the U.S. to ceramic coat Oliver trailers and bring them back to new. With that being said we have had quite a few inquires about ceramic coatings from Texas and have decided to plan a trip down to Texas in June to apply a couple of Ceramic Coatings. I wanted to extend the offer to those who have not yet seen our post in the Oliver Trailer Owners Facebook group or to those who are not in the group. If you live in Texas and are interested in getting your Oliver coated in June let us know! The more the merrier! Just so no one has to look for pricing, here is what we charge to ceramic coat an Oliver. LE1: $2,000 LE2: $2,800 Our website also has some pretty detailed information about ceramic coatings, what they do, the brand we use, and the process we take on each Oliver as well as some frequently asked questions. I am more than happy to answer and questions about ceramic coatings or questions you may have about general detailing as well! https://www.cgidetailing.com/olivertraveltrailers

Duh!☹️ Lets also throw in a plug for Mirna (Foy's wife and all around nice person).🥰

These guys have detailed and coated several Olivers, including scubarx"s #50, so we have a bit of history. We do not allow spam posts, as you all know, and diligently work to remove and prevent them. For me, I'm not sure I'd spend the money for 24 months' protection, but that's up to the individual. I have no idea what mobile detailing charges for twice yearly waxing. This may be very competitive. Idk. There's a lot of work that goes into prep. I know that for sure. My neighbor had his boat ceramic coated, and the prep took far longer than the coating.

We used to have a different color designation for vendors, but I don't know if that's still available. I'll ask. All Oliver employees show up in green. Mods blue. Admins red. Members black, or bold black, if they've been around long enough. Fwiw, Colin clearly identified himself as a vendor, so definitely being careful to not break any rules. I appreciate the pricing info, as I'm sure others do. It's an expensive process, but clearly something many are interested in. An additional subforum is a consideration, but it's so infrequent, I'm not totally sure of the value.

BILL REED I AM NOT THAT FAR FROM YOU (GREENEVILLE TN "THE SOUTH"), BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING THAT THESE KNOWLEDGABLE WELL MEANING FOLKS RECOMMEND, YOU NEED TO LOOK AT THIS AND DO MORE SPECIFIC SEARCHING IF YOU HAVE NOT DONE SO. Having been faced with these tiny black spots first over 40 years ago and 20 years later around a log home, office building, and new home that I mulched around heavily, I suspect instead of mold spores, that these are from Artillary Fungus, but yes are spores. A common culprit is from wood mulch. The fungi shoot their sports toward "shiny" objects like light colored cars, white guttering and siding when the sun shines on them. It is brown or black and tarlike. Look up this fungus and see ways to remove, but my experience was that it usually leaves a lighter, less noticable, but still a spot remains underneath when you dissolve the tar spot. Lots of this info on a search. This doesn't help your specific problem, but in my case, it all stopped when I switched from wood to leaf mulch. I did find some simple, but not easy ways to remove the tar spots, but the longer they're on, the more permanent the spot damage underneath. I found no other way than to work in small segments. You can improve the appearance overall that's acceptable from a "normal" distance. If you find, a more recent, widespread easier and more effective cure, I would love to hear it, as my research is dated. Pardon if you've already discovered this. Ron

I personally think the "drain to 10.5" is a ridiculous and very harmful Idea. Asking for trouble, as the battery is pretty much dead at 10.5. The drop on the seelevel from 12.7 to 12.5 is expected, under load. A good battery will bounce back, not under load in 20 to 30 minutes. The load applied lowers the voltage numbers, and the furnace fan is a big load.

With all due respect, and you didn't have prior knowledge, he has trojan t105 batteries, designed for golf carts and rvs, etc. Dedicated deep cycle, not starter batteries. Thicker plates, longer life, deeper discharge. 7 years isn't a bad run. Might be better, but not bad at all. Could be worse, too. I'm a bit confused, though. 12. 7 is pretty much full, shouldn't cut off the furnace. Mine runs til much lower, maybe 12.2? Can't remember, as we don't normally let batteries run that low. (That's how we depleted the life of first lead acid set, in less than a year. 😒. I had to fly out for a family emergency, my husband didn't have my help in monitoring battery status, and it was cold, furnace running, no solar then, etc. Toast.) But, if batteries are at end of life, they'll show 12.7, then drop rapidly under load, such as the fan running, to the point where the furnace won't light off. Like @mossemi suggested. We routinely get at least 5 years, often more, from batteries. Even with our heavy use.

1 - make sure that the pump is off 2 - make sure that there is no pressure in the water lines 3 - place a rag under the filter "bowl" and take it off This bowl and filter are not very big so that they don't hold a bunch of water. When re-installing the bowl: make sure that it is aligned properly and then screw it back on. It only has to be "finger" tight. Turn the water pump back on and check for leaks. Bill

I'd start with stuff you have in the house, mildest. It depends on what the stains really are, but it could indeed be mildew. Fiberglass gelcoat has "pores" that can collect tiny amounts of organic matter, allowing mold to grow, without really good wax. Even then, it can happen. None of these will hurt your gelcoat. Best done on a cooler day, in the shade. Try a paper towel soaked in vinegar, and plaster it to the hull. Let it sit ten minutes. Rinse it and see. If that doesn't make a difference, try soaking a paper towel in hydrogen peroxide, same procedure, different spot. ( you never want to mix peroxide and vinegar.) There are many marine mildew removers on the market. Someone, I think @dewdev, used Starbrite. I recently tried marine 31 on a few stubborn spots in my bath, with good success, after none of my home remedies worked. All these need to be well washed and rinsed after application. I'd stick with marine products, though, A cleaner wax has a mild polish in it, last resort. Best applied by hand. Any polish or compound is a form of very fine grit, and removes a tiny bit of gel coat. The wrong tools in inexperienced hands will do more harm than good, as John e Davies mentioned. You don't want permanent swirl marks in your beautiful sides. Once you get the trailer clean, wax it well, with a good quality wax, and keep it up. Wax seals those pores. We wax twice each year, exterior. Now we use collinite, since 3m ultra has been (sadly) discontinued. Interior gets waxed once a year. Last year, I skipped it, and got some spots in the kitchen.. What part of the country did your trailer come from?

Not to mention the fine craftsmanship of Oliver owner Foy Sperring and all his fine wood products for Olivers! Mike

I am looking forward to seeing #50 at the rally as well as speaking to the folks from CGI Detailing. It will give me a chance to kick the tires, so to speak. Mossey

If these are artillery spores, which I'd frankly never heard of til your thread, you're in for a lot of work. And, I'm sorry. I've looked at literally a dozen websites, and all of them note that they're really tough to remove, especially if they've been allowed to remain a long time. A few more home remedies to soften or remove the casings mentioned are cheap mouthwash (especially mint), murphys oil soap, Mr clean sponges, cooking oil, or dollar store awesome cleaner. (I think awesome is a bit aggressive, especially if not reduced.) Some people found success with borax, or tsp, solution in hot water, which may actually kill the tiny spores left behind in the pores. (Caustic solutions. ) general conclusion is bleach solutions only remove stain, and don't kill the spores. I'd try any (maybe all) of the methods first, before I buffed out the whole trailer.

This is exactly what I have always thought or been taught too. I will go ahead and post the link to the article keeping in mind I am not promoting this idea or this person just supplying additional information on battery maintenance. https://www.boondoctor.com The above is the general website address where you can find numerous articles or blogs this fellow has posted. https://www.boondoctor.com/knowledgebase/how-far-to-discharge-your-lead-acid-rv-batteries/ He certainly seems to know much more than I do regarding RV boon docking and associated battery information. The article above certainly flies in the face of conventional wisdom.

Is targeted marketing of commercial services allowed on this forum?

Yes, for sure. Compounding, even with super fine "finishing" grit, takes some material off the surface. By design. Not a good way to solve the issue of stuff like mildew that might be creeping down into the micro pores in the gelcoat if you can get them off with some sort of cleaner. And as your first reply to this thread implied, even harsh cleaners will take some toll on the gelcoat so best to work up to that. All this said, having done the relatively small job of rehabbing a neglected fiberglass van top, there's no way I would take on any significant compounding task w/o the benefit of a power buffer (which btw does a GREAT job of buffing paste wax such as the Collinite Fleetwax 😄 ).

As I've said many times, the wrong tools in the hands of inexperienced people can cause more problems than they solve. We have 40+ years in maintaining fiberglass boats and trailers. I always look to practical sailor for guidance and new tested and vetted products. I'm sure you are very careful in reading directions, and proper use, as we are. Not everyone is, which is why, I suspect, @dewdev issued his warning. The article you referenced was for heavily oxidized (read neglected) hulls. Compounds and a power buffer are a strong combo. It needs to be done properly, carefully, and only when necessary, as you said, @Jim_Oker

I hear what you're saying on these numbers and in fact in the past even with less SOC these same batteries would run the furnace. In milder temps at 12.7 volts once the furnace motor started it would immediately drop to 12.5. I was reading earlier today on the boondocks bible website where aging batteries might not have the ability to fulfill a heavy amp draw even though the battery might be charged. Not sure what to make of this, and at least one of the owners stated on his own website (boondoctor.com) lead acid batteries should be drain to 10.5 at least once per year. As you might imagine when asking about this to Trojan and Lifeline results were a bit different. One would think as old as this technology is, there would be no debated about how to maintain them, but this is not the case. I'm inclined to do AGM's but there is not a lot of reputable brands to choose from up here in the Northern Hinterlands other than Interstate Batteries. Shipping on 280 lbs worth of batteries has to be pricey these days.

LOL😂 probably both! Seriously I stand by my initial statement the Suburban furnace is truly a piece of work which only a deeply troubled mind could have designed and invented. Would like to think the Attwood's are at least a modicum better. Good luck getting past 7 years with yours, hope you succeed. Truth be told based upon my testing while the weather was a bit milder I could probably push it and get at least another summer season out of the ones I have. Doubt they would hold up to a fall season though.

So - Is it that furnace that s*cks or is it those 7 year old batteries that s*ck? Or both? 😁 Bill p.s. sorry - but I simply could not resist. My T-105's are also pushing 7 years and I'm hoping to get one more year out of them.

Both of the ones I've had made a bit of sound but by the end the OEM-installed one was making *much* louder noises. And after I installed the new one it was a ton quieter. I think the video doesn't do well to demonstrate the sound level. Before I remove the old one it was chattering enough to make me, as a bit of a motorcycle mechanic, uncomfortable. Visions of the pump internals being shredded. 😉

My dometic dinosaur unot was well over a decade old, but still (loudly) worked. The exterior shroud was mostly tape, cracked in so many places. (Our trailer is outdoors, 24/7/365.) I offered parts here, then took it to recycling, with no takers. The 9.5 works well in our parking spot beside the house, and on house 15 amp. We have a smaller 2008 elite. We don't have lithium, or a way to run the ac from battery. My experience is strictly running it at home. We don't have (nor ever had) an easy start. It's very quiet. It works. In retrospect, since we rarely have power camping, I could have replaced the old dometic with a vent fan, and saved a lot of money. It is nice, though, to have the ability to have ac, if we need it.

12.7 in old weak batteries can drop very rapidly. The shore power test you've done probably tells the story, imo.

This storage container is a perfect fit for the back of the basement. Plano, 68 quart, medium storage trunk.

Thanks for the tip about the Plano storage box. I bought one yesterday to replace the two milk crates that I stored in the inner-most part of the basement. Even with ropes attached to the crates to make it easier to remove them, the furthest crate would always hang up on a bump in the ridged rubber matting, and I would have to go headfirst into the basement to retrieve it. The Plano box slides in and out easily, once you figure out how to angle it just right.

John: I think that SeaDawg installed a Houghton AC last year. Check with them on your questions.

2009 amazing, and there in lies the difference. I have not been that meticulous about the battery maintenance. FWIW I have called both Trojan and Lifeline battery companies and both companies have stated I've done well getting 7 years out of these. To add to that after charging again all day, unplugged battery power started furnace quickly @ 13.0 volts SOC, turned off furnace for a few minutes, SOC @ 12.8 volts and again furnace starts and its freezing cold here with snow now coming down. Did the same thing a few times on Sunday with same results. Looks like time to buy new batteries, because its obvious @ 12.7 volts these batteries do not have enough left to power the fan motor properly. 1st World problems, we should be so luck. Thanks

As I was writing my reply it occurred to me that was your intention, use the Truck with jumper cables to connect. Unfortunately due to where I live this is near impossible without dragging the entire affair to a parking lot of sorts. Live in an older historical neighborhood and the access just doesn't allow for a side by side setup like that. Good idea though. FWIW I have checked the voltage reading with several intervals after a charge. Last two nights I wanted to immolate what it would be like on a boon docking trip using solar in the day by taking camper off shore power at sundown, check voltage first think after sunrise, then try and start furnace. Got 12.7 volts, furnace would not start until I plugged into shore power again then furnaces starts up immediately.

I agree with SeaDawg. Use mildest to start with. When I purchased my used 3 year old Ollie, there were a lot of black water stains on the side walls that came from dirt (I think) from the roof. This Meguiar's 67 is what I used to remove black water stains on my Ollie. It is pretty mild as far as compounds go. Some other products also worked but required a lot of rubbing. This Meguiars 67 One Step Compound took off the spots with very little rubbing. I used a cloth to apply it and another cloth to remove and polish it. DO NOT use a power buffer with any fiberglass compound products. After I cleaned the the fiberglass I used the below Meguiars Professional Marine wax. I use two coats each spring and another coat in the fall. I have owned four older fiberglass boats over the years. I always used to use Star Brite products or West Marine products but I really love the Meguiar's products better. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Funny, I was just out in my trailer this morning, checking some things out, and I was going to ask you what your battery levels were. Now, you've solved the mystery, all on your own. Good on you. I have friends with a 2009 who still have their original Trojan wet cells in service. (They maintain meticulously, and are plugged in through storage, and most of the time, camping as well.) Theyve defied all odds, imo. Me? 99 per cent boondocking, solar charging. On our third set of batteries. Our two Deka/east penn agm group 31s are in their 5th season. Hoping for a few more. Fingers crossed. Batteries are so expensive. I feel your pain.

Well there are some technical differences with the 6 volt Trojan T-105 compared to auto/truck batteries. Its my understanding they really are made to a different level with deep cell technology and are meant to last a longer time… maybe. Just had to replace my truck battery this past summer after 8 years of use. And you are correct colder weather puts far more stress on a battery than 60 or 70 degrees. First time I'v heard of unreliable readings for wet cells though, wonder what might cause this anomaly. Thanks

It probably would, but the logistics and effort of removing 4 Trojan T-105's just to install one single 12 volt batter of known quantity would be a major PITA. And @Rivernerd makes a good point about their age as well. Thanks

Always be sure you double check the main door lock before traveling. I neglected to lock one time and the door came open in the middle of downtown Jacksonville, FL. We had to pull over in fierce traffic and get it closed and locked.

After taking Delivery of Hull 1067 we decided to head to Gulf Shores for a little shake down trip. We where all good on the coast untill all the crazy storms and risk of Tornados. Heading North to Canada we where hit with everything that mother nature could through at us ànf thee Oliver performed like a champ. We are avid RV adventure travellers and I must say this unit is very impressive. We travelled 5500km since our April 1 pick up date and look forward to many more full time living miles over the next few years. He is the one and only parking lot pic I have. Cheers,Perry and Colleen

I asked for $500 when I sold my 2017 Dometic AC unit, settled for offer of $450. Note that RecPro warned that warranty would be voided if easy start was installed. I took the chance.

I have used it in my Oliver storage shed that I heat to only to 55 to 60 degrees, I store my garden produce in the same shed. If I am working on the inside of my Oliver and I want to heat it up that is what I used and it does a very nice job. I have a brother that installed the very same AC when I did mine and he stays in electrical provided spot quite often and he is very happy with the heat pump availability of this AC. So I think if you are going to utilize electric sites it would be a useful feature, It does run quieter and you are saving propane.

I think you mean the Way Way Back Machine. Tell Mr. Peabody I said Hello.

I guess it depends on what you expect and actually do when camping. We have the 4 6v AGMs and over 3 years they have served us well. We can dry camp for 3 nights (we have no solar) and just plug the trailer in when storing. Camping on the East - and mostly mid south to southeast means a lot of trees for us and so the advantages of solar would be minimal. When the AGMs bite the dust I would considers lithium, but honestly I’d rather spend the extra money on a quieter air conditioner.

I just saw the following notice for late model Ford truck and since a fair number of Oliver owners have this truck it might be of interest: Ford is also recalling 391,836 2021-2022 F-150, 2022 Ford Maverick, Expedition, Lincoln avigator, F-250, F-350, F-450 and F-550 vehicles because a towed trailer equipped with an electric or electric-over hydraulic brake system might not brake. Dealers will update the integrated trailer brake control module software. Ford has 67 reports of improper function potentially related to the issue but no reports of crashes or injuries related to the recall.