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This article pretty much sums up what everyone here has to say about Oliver. Very hard to find a company that stays on the good side of bad press releases. Nice work OTT! This says volumes about who you all are. RV makers differ in informing owners of dangerous RVs defects

What that saying from the "60's", "If this trailer is a Rock'en, don't come a Knock'en". trainman

For Anyone Who Is Interested, We purchased our 2019 Oliver Elite II without solar. After purchasing and installing LiFePO4 batteries, I decided adding solar made sense and reached out to Jason Essary from Oliver. I wanted to make sure I installed the solar system as close to the way Oliver did from the factory as I could. I also reached out to Battle Born Batteries for advice. After installing solar panels, a solar controller, battery monitor and LiFePO4 batteries I posted the installation here on the forum. Since then, I have received a number of requests for assistance on other Oliver owner's installations. To help others, I produced detailed instructions as to how I completed our installation. I also have a parts and tool list as well as numerous pictures of various parts of the installation. If you are interested in any of the information I have or would like to discuss any part of the installation, please let me know. I am happy to help in any way I can. Andrew P.S. Please keep in mind I am very handy but, I am not professional solar installer or electrician. I am only providing this information as a description as to what I did.

Hi there! I am the new owner of an Oliver Legacy Elite II. My Ollie was delivered on the 14th. I will be living full-time in my Ollie. I have named her Jasmine. I am a retired English teacher More later . . . . Thanks!

Pretty remarkable, right? The only forum member I know of with the affected axle part was repaired already, and other manufacturers haven't even contacted their owners. It did remind me of this post my @MDuncan. It's really important for folks who are the second owners of an Oliver to register their purchase. In the rare issue of a recall, Oliver can't find you, if you don't tell them!

Thank You for taking the time, I really appreciate it. Will check this out tomorrow. Dan

While camping in Arkansas in May of 2019, I found a fair amount of water running off the rear curbside roof while the AC was running. I figured out that if the lowest point of the Ollie was the curbside, then the condensate water rain off the curbside roof. If the low point was the street side, the condensate drained through the internal drain tube and out under the Ollie as it should. That allowed us to manage the condensate water drainage as needed. When I finally got around to troubleshooting the actual problem I found out Oliver had installed a Dometic accessory drain kit which consisted of 2 white plastic cups and vinyl tubing and 4 screws and 3 or 4 hose clamps. There is an accessory cup on both sides off the AC unit that receive the condensate from the steel drain pan built into the the base of the AC. The drain kit tubing connects the accessory drain cups to Oliver’s internal drain tubing. I could see the internal drain pan after pulling the AC shroud and a few other parts off. Without the accessory drain kit the condensate would exit the drain pan and onto the roof through a drain hole on each side. So RV's with the Dometic AC but without the accessory drain kit would experience water running off the roof under normal conditions while running the AC. Some Oliver owners on the forum have replaced their Dometic AC's and report that the condensate runs off the roof and down the low side of the trailer because there wasn’t a option to connect the new AC to the internal Oliver drain system. After an initial inspection of the drain system, I leveled the Ollie side to side and front to back and began adding water to the condensate drain pan. The result was that some water ran off the roof on the curbside and some drained through the Oliver internal drain on the street side. That result caused me to consider that perhaps there was a blockage in the curbside drain tube, so I disconnected the curbside tubing at the tee fitting that separates the accessory cups and used a can of compressed air to verify the tube was clear and it was. Then I lowered the curbside side and plugged that tube and then added water to the main drain which resulted in water leaking onto the roof. The accessory drain cup and tubing connection is not really visible with the AC unit mounted but it did seem to me the water was leaking from that connection. So I ordered this kit and a second AC mounting gasket because the kit comes with one and two are required to raise the AC unit high enough to allow clearance for the drain cups. I then sat on the repair parts for months waiting for an opportunity to obtain access to an air conditioned shop a friend has access to. That happened this month and the repair is complete and the drains work as they should. It did require removing the AC and flipping it onto it’s back to remove and replace the old gaskets and drain cups and that did make the broken cup connector visible. Here are few pictures for everyone that stayed awake during this dissertation. This last picture makes the original break visible by the discoloration on the bottom and sides of the connector. The lighter portion of the break was on top and still connected when we flipped it over and snapped it off completely. Mossey

This Link covers my Dometic A/C Drain Leak Repair. Mossey

Alberta and Randy, In our 2019 Elite II, the condensate tube runs directly back to the back wall of the trailer and down a few inches to the street side of the rear window. to the spot is exits the trailer. As I an idea on how to clear out the tube, I would remove the tube form the tee you are showing and blow compressed air down the tube that runs toward the back of the trailer. Another idea would be to use a turkey baster with hot soapy water and shoot it down the tube. Hope that helps, Andrew

If you want to see an Elite II, then PM me and we can arrange for you to see mine. I am in Falmouth, Maine

Yes. It is normal. We’ve been rocking for over 6 years, Unless you use separate jacks or x-chocks to help the onboard stabilizers you will have some movement. Mike

First Priority/Suggestion: Check the hardware as John Davis suggested Second Suggestion: Use three Anderson buckets like what Frank C suggested or something equivalant so the stabilizing jacks are not traveling so far to support the trailer. I use the Anderson buckets and have had no real rocking problems. Third Suggestion (if you want added insurance against rocking): Use the X-Chocks as suggested by Patriot. I use them when I am staying in one location for more than 1 day and the Oliver is then rock solid. Happy camping and welcome to the Oliver family.

We use the red Andersen jack buckets under each stabilizer jack so the jacks aren’t extended far, so less flexing & stress on the stabilizer jack legs, and less wear & tear on the jack motors lowering and raising the jacks. And I’ve found that the stabilizers have to be run down to the point where you are actually taking significant loading off of the trailer leaf springs to really stabilize things. Not lifting the trailer tires off the ground but definitely making the rear stabilizers carry a good bit of the trailer weight to keep the trailer from rocking. I also use stabilizer chocks between the wheels. And since you have an older trailer, take John’s advice and definitely check all of your jack mounting hardware and bracket welds to make sure nothing is broken that’s causing your rocking.

It depends partly on how far extended the jacks are. If you are not using any blocks under them, then yes, there can be some motion, because the inside parts are not very well supported when far out. The easy way to eliminate it is to stack wood or “Lego” blocks underneath all three so that they only have to extend a few inches. That also conserves electrical power, and reduces wear and tear on the motors and gearboxes. Also, FYI the hardware that holds the jacks to the frame may be LOOSE, check all nuts and bolts for tightness, if any are loose, tightening them to the correct torque will firm things up. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6812-check-your-rear-jack-mount-hardware-bottom-frame-bolts-were-1-turn-loose/ John Davies Spokane WA

Welcome Margaret! You’re bound to have questions as you settle in to your new Oliver. Everyone here likes to help. Mike

Welcome Margaret and congrats on your Ollie and retirement! When you have a moment consider adding your Hull # and year model of your Ollie in your signature block. This will really help members to assist you if of you have any questions about your particular operating Oliver’s systems. Happy Camping! -Patriot 🇺🇸

Welcome from a retired middle school English teacher!

We got a good look at some 2023 Elite 2 demo units while we were at the mothership last week. On the outside you can see that the solar panels aren't as wide (it has been reported that OTT is switching to more powerful panels from a different mfg.), there was the optional Truma A/C unit up top, and there's no lower vent panel for the refrigerator. The latter is because OTT is switching to 12/120v compressor fridges, and the reason for that is that they can't source new 3-way fridges in that size anymore. I did ask Jason what impact that would have on battery life and he said that their tests showed good performance, even with AGM batteries. The lower fridge vent panel has been replaced by a cool flip-up table which we liked a lot. Inside, the compressor fridge itself was deeper, with more fridge storage, but a smaller freezer than our Norcold 3-way, which we didn't like as much. The Zamp solar controller was replaced by a Victron, of which we're jealous, and the furnace was different, too, with smaller registers in the cabin. I think the furnace was a Truma as well - part of the optional Truma package. Otherwise, we didn't notice any other major changes from our 2022.

Inspired by dhaig's use of a Harbor Freight suction cup to make an external towel rack, I decided to use another Harbor Freight suction cup, https://www.harborfreight.com/4-58-in-aluminum-suction-cup-lifter-110-lb-57500.html, to make an interior shelf. I fabricated the shelf out of a 1/4" sheet of polycarbonate. I'm using the shelf to hold a CPAP machine on the back side of the pantry cabinet of our standard bed Elite 2 but the suction cup shelf could be adapted to a number of different applications depending on a person's need. The suction cup is rated for 110 Lbs. Of course this is a straight line pull and not side loaded like it is in this shelf application, but that said, the shelf is quite secure and can support quite a bit of weight.

New video!

Excellent write up. Thank you for sharing Mike. - Patriot

I believe this is the auxiliary drain kit that includes the small pans, one of which is shown in the picture in my previous post. The tee shown in your second picture is the tee in the picture below. The tube that eventually exits at the rear street side corner is attached to this tee. https://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-auxiliary-drain-pan-kit.html

Pretty sure they are stainless steel. I've been considering buying some stainless steel quick connects like these. A bit pricey, but maybe worth it in the long run.

Yes, it is normal to have some rocking. We also use the Andersen buckets under the rear stabilizers. The xchocks work very well for us.

Hi, Live downeast maine and would really like to see an Oliver Elite II. If you are traveling highway 1 this summer and are near MDI or beyond would love to arrange a look see at your trailer. Thanks Dave Kritter

I have them (brass) from Camco and sold on Amazon, they work great. There also on my Black Tank flush hookup, I use a different color hose for that flush, army camo color, get the idea. trainman

There is a slight difference in generator charging your former Casita and your present Oliver. The Oliver has a built in Electrical Management System (EMS) that most likely your Casita did not have. If you don't have a neutral bonding plug in your generator the EMS will prevent the generator from connecting to the electrical system in your trailer, but for the time being it's OK to bypass the EMS.

The generator is a Honda eu2000i. Do you think that is powerful enough?

Yeah, I should have done this in my driveway. I deserved that comment.

The solar system will not effect the operation of the generator. The Ollie should act just like it does when you are plugged into shore power. Mossey

No worries, you won’t hurt your solar charging system, it cooperates nicely with the other charging systems on your Ollie. What generator do you have? If it is a little 1000 watt unit you will have to trip (disconnect) the AC circuit breakers for all the other circuits except the converter (charger) or might not carry the load. John Davies Spokane WA

You might just try opening a service ticket with Oliver. Chances are, they will have clips in stock.

Looks like a good product for the Ollie. Like you said, we all have our opinions and I'm sure open to changing mine, but the issue is the non-stick. Though, I love the cleanup of non-stick, I've never found it to be even close to "permanent". Having cooked a lot for a long time and having listened to many professional chefs, I've never heard any of them say that there is a "permanent " non-stick surface. After going through several expensive well known non-stick products, I finally took the advise of some of these chefs to buy one cheap non-stick pan for the things you absolutely do not want to stick, which are not that many, and plan on replacing it every year or so. The workhorse cookware is a heavy steel. If anyone out there has what they consider a permanent non-stick piece of cookware that they have used almost daily for years, I would love to hear about it and want it. I sure love the way the Magma pans stack together and fit into the cabinet. Great video! Keep them coming

This is why I bought an Oliver. Rough, tough, ready for boondocking. This is off of Highway 395, north of Mono Lake in California. Take Virginia Lakes Road for about six miles (paved) then turn onto Dunderberg Meadows Road (gravel) and look for the spot you want. It's all national forest land so the price was right. We took a spur with big bad rocks, but by crawling along and trying to pick the least bad path, the Ollie performed like a champ. The boondocking inlet port let us fill our fresh water tank again from a couple of 6 gallon water jugs I carry. The sun charged up our batteries and let us use all juice we needed. A hot shower and cold cocktails made cloud watching even better. And the composting toilet makes finding a dump station a non-issue.

Something like this might work for you... Dual Receiver Trailer Hitch Ball.

I would not care to have the superfluous dicor everywhere, as I've seen on so many sob trailers and motorhomes. I think they throw all that crap up there to hide shoddy workmanship. It definitely makes tracing leaks harder, and resealing more difficult, if there are bulges of sealant, everywhere. Unlike others, I've had a couple roof leaks, in 15 seasons. The original dometic ac bolts needed to be retorqued after a year and many miles. Easy fix. Then, about a year or two ago, the bath fan leaked. Gasket failure. Needed reseating. We decided to replace it with a better fan, with a light, and no regrets, rather than reseating an old working fan. We used butyl tape to bed the new fan, and I love the overhead light in the bath. Oliver generally does an amazing job with sealing penetrations, and uses good quality, long life sealants, imo. I'm in my 15th season, and have very few complaints. Two small roof leaks, in over a decade, is pretty good, for me. We have also had a window sealant leak, and, the third tail light is the biggest culprit. Ours, I think is forever fixed, imo. BUT, hey, my trailer is in its 15th season. But, our boat is in its 44th. We're used to resealing, as necessary.