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Not sure if this has changed since my 2018 LEII but we do not have a light in our pantry. I have been through a couple of stick on lights and finally found one I like. Sunbeam+ Under Cabinet Light. It comes with adhesive metal tabs the light is magnetic and sticks to the tabs. It needs to be easily removed because it recharges with a USB type C plug. It is motion activated and turns off automatically after 20 second. It has three color options, light blue, amber and white./ $22.00. I will update this post after traveling to update how long it lasts on a charge and if it falls off the magnets during traveling. https://www.acehardware.com/departments/home-and-decor/novelty-items/miscellaneous-novelty-items/6012170 lightvideo.mp4

Another member posted these showing current LE2 prices. If somebody has better quality ones, please PM me and I will replace them. Click Open in new tab (or window) to see full sized versions.) Out of curiosity I specced out a fully loaded model. 2023 Oliver Legacy Elite 2 Build Sheet - MAXXED OUT (most expensive options chosen) Twin bed w/ couch $73,800 TB w/ 2 upgraded foam cushions $1750 TB w/ 2 upgraded mattresses Ultrafabric $450 Hypervent $200 Omni-directioinal and portable satellite antenna $1400 Powered streets side awning $2300 Convection microwave $500 Composting toilet $1350 Truma AquaGo WH, Truma Aventra AC and Electric antifreeze kit $3850 Lithium Platinum Package 640 AH $15,900 Electronics Pro Package $2100 Outdoor Pro Package $2350 2 5/16” Andersen hitch with 2 5/16” Bulldog coupler $1200 Ligun table $500 Shower track $275 TOTAL $107,925 Here is mine: DAVIES Oliver Legacy Elite II “Mouse” Hull 218 FACTORY OPTIONS, delivered 04/26/2017: Note - Oliver was doing custom options at this time, some were done on the production line, some were done by Service at Delivery. EDIT 08/10/22 The base price is wrong in my description, it should be $48,500. Here is the actual build sheet for 2017 for my trailer: It is really hard to compare model years because so much of the optional stuff is now included in the base trailer. But the cost of a brand new one is maybe one reason the used trailers are selling at or near their original purchase prices 😉 For anyone buying used, try to find the original build sheet or ask Oliver Sales to send you one, it will give you a much better idea of how that pre-loved Ollie is equipped. The huge cost increases associated with the pandemic obviously are at work here. My $800 Natures Head option is now $1350. I am sure similar increases affect the cost of gelcoat and resin, structural aluminum, copper wires, wheels and axles, and of course the appliances. John Davies Spokane WA

Yup. Fiberglass products have doubled, nationally. Everything else, not so good, either. Glad I bought mine 15 seasons ago. It is what is is. Since fiberglass is petroleum based....it won't get cheaper, soon.

I wondered if anyone did with trailers this weight. For decades, over a succession of under 2000 pound sailboats and now my squaredrop trailer, I've used a stainless steel ball and a four layer thick square of waxed paper. Never a squeak, no wear, no mess. A boat dealer told me about this method back in the '70s or '80s.

Stick your fingers in the opening on the front and gently press down on the return air filter/grill then remove the two and separate them. Clean the filter and grill. Leave them off if the filter is completely plugged and see if your air is cooler. You will need to get an RV Tech to remove the a/c shroud on top and check for dirty coils.

Nice addition! I purchased a round motion sensor light for the pantry that is battery operated and has worked well and stayed put. I love the light coming on automatically when I open that cupboard! I have one on the ceiling by the entry door as I always have my arms loaded with things to carry in or out. I think these areas should have had lights to begin with..but I'm happy with the mod. The only issue with the entryway is the dog activates it in the middle of the night! Your light bar would work awesome in the fridge too! I have that style in there as well!

We went with strip lighting in both the pantry and the lower part of the closet. They work great! https://a.co/bG98dxe

Is the return air filter clean? It is located under the grill shown in the photos below. Be careful removing the grill. It’s easy to break the tabs off and it’s not available as a separate part. Do you feel air coming out of all four openings on the sides and the sliding grate on the bottom? Your trailer is a 2017 so it has been in storage. Has anyone checked to see if the coils under the shroud on top are clean? (Disregard arrows and text, I used these photos before to explain something else.) What is the voltage shown on your Progressive Industries display?

The CPAP machine isn't very heavy, probably only 2-3 lbs but the shelf could support quite a bit more weight. I do leave the shelf attached and so far it's stayed put. I like the idea of an outside beer shelf! 😃 I chose polycarbonate over acrylic plexiglass because it is much stronger and won't crack. However, using polycarbonate did offer a few unique challenges that I hadn't anticipated... My original design had a curved ledge running all around the shelf which I had planned to heat and bend around the shelf. I've done similar bends with acrylic without much problem. I researched bending polycarbonate and the suggestion for doing so at home was to heat the piece you intend to bend in an oven: https://www.justpolycarbonate.com/post/bending-polycarbonate-everything-you-need-to-know When I went to actually do it, I quickly learned that heating and bending polycarbonate is much trickier then bending acrylic. Polycarbonate has to be heated to a much higher temperature (around 400 F). You have to watch it closely because if you heat it for even 30 seconds after it becomes flexible, it transforms into an almost unrecognizable opaque white material! (see photo). Even when you catch it at the perfect time, you only have a few seconds to bend the material before it hardens up again. After a few failed attempts, I gave up and redesigned the shelf with straight ledges! I bought a 12"x24"x1/4" sheet of polycarbonate on Amazon but if you live close to a plastics dealer such as TAP Plastics, you can often find remnant pieces in their bargain bins. Polycarbonate (and acrylic) are typically solvent welded when attaching pieces together. This was the product I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003HNFLMY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi there! I am the new owner of an Oliver Legacy Elite II. My Ollie was delivered on the 14th. I will be living full-time in my Ollie. I have named her Jasmine. I am a retired English teacher More later . . . . Thanks!

2018 Tundra SR longbed 4X4 with 1430 lb payload. Have towed all over the SouthWest, Midwest and thru TN and KY with no issues. Tow with the Andersen hitch. 12 mpg and plenty of power and braking. Added Firestone airbags and inflate to 25 lbs which eliminates any jouncing. Also tow with a 1 ton Dodge diesel single rear wheel 4X4. Mpg towing with the diesel is 16 mpg and obviously much more cargo capacity. Between the two, honestly I prefer the Tundra. Nicer ride and my 1 ton is huge overkill IMO for the Elite II the way I drive (65-67 mph). I have spoken to owners of the new Tundra who tow a 25' Airstream and they said it tows great. If you can find one, I don't think you can go wrong. I am a displacement guy so the 5.7 V* is high on my list but from what I have heard, the new turbo V6 Tundra does the job too.

When we converted our microwave cavity to a large cupboard, my husband wired in a 12v switched pucklight to the ceiling. We've used battety and magnet lights for years in our shed in nc. Some better than others. I'll look forward to your report in a year.

Today we arrived in Tok, AK after a 3,400 mile journey from San Diego. The last 400 miles on the Alcan were challenging. The only damage was from the microwave popping open and the glass tray shattering in the trailer. The frost heaves create quite a challenge. You can see 95% of them, but the other 5% take a toll. The Dexter axles handled it all well. Now we start 2 months touring AK.

Welcome to Fairbanks! Alcan frost heaves are pesky… Alaska has lots of frost heaves as well!

I became aware of the 2-5/16 ball and Bulldog coupler option by reviewing John Davies' excellent post on his 2-5/16" upgrade on this forum. So, I asked for it, and it is on our 2022 build sheet.

That's exciting, Kirk and Carrie! Best of luck!

Thank you! You were brave, to teach Middle School;

Great info, thanks!

Very useful, John, thank you!

I just traded in a 2012 Toyota Tundra 5.7 L for a 2022 Tundra 3.5 L V6 Twin turbo. It is working great! Big improvement in gas mileage without the Ollie I'm getting 20 mpg in the city, with the Ollie about 13 mpg. I did not have a problem with the old Toyota and the new one is better.

https://gabriel.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Gabriel-HD-Tech-Bulletin-Shock-Installation.pdf I think somebody at Oliver is overdoing it…..BTW the shocks on my trailer are Monroe Gas Magnums. It is interesting, the Oliver warranty is just one year, but if you buy and install them yourself it is lifetime. Something to consider if you have one or more blown ones. https://www.carid.com/monroe/gas-magnum-rv-driver-or-passenger-side-shock-absorber-mpn-555001.html And if you do experience blown seals, it may be due to running way too much air in the tires. Two of mine blew in the first season (60 psi!). I replaced them and since then all have been fine at 42 psi. You are “supposed to” replace both on the same axle, but I suspect that recommendation is more for cars and trucks than for an RV. John Davies Spokane WA

Trainman, In 2019, I was all in at $4,600. That included: - (2) Zamp panels, combiner box and all mounting hardware - (2) Battle Born 100ah batteries - Victron solar controller - Victron battery monitor - New converter/charger - All connectors, wire, circuit breaker and tools for the insulation The detailed list is attached. Andrew Copy of Solar And Battery Purchases.xlsx

I’ve been using this grease from Reese. Seems to work well so far. But any white lithium grease would probably work just as well. Reese Towpower 58117 Hitch Ball Lube https://a.co/d/ijYGGoO

Mike, I am a recent AndrewK graduate that self installed solar panels and lithium batteries on my 2019 LE2. Like Andrew, I too am willing to offer any help. Pm me your contact info if I can help.

Alberta and Randy, In our 2019 Elite II, the condensate tube runs directly back to the back wall of the trailer and down a few inches to the street side of the rear window. to the spot is exits the trailer. As I an idea on how to clear out the tube, I would remove the tube form the tee you are showing and blow compressed air down the tube that runs toward the back of the trailer. Another idea would be to use a turkey baster with hot soapy water and shoot it down the tube. Hope that helps, Andrew

We use the red Andersen jack buckets under each stabilizer jack so the jacks aren’t extended far, so less flexing & stress on the stabilizer jack legs, and less wear & tear on the jack motors lowering and raising the jacks. And I’ve found that the stabilizers have to be run down to the point where you are actually taking significant loading off of the trailer leaf springs to really stabilize things. Not lifting the trailer tires off the ground but definitely making the rear stabilizers carry a good bit of the trailer weight to keep the trailer from rocking. I also use stabilizer chocks between the wheels. And since you have an older trailer, take John’s advice and definitely check all of your jack mounting hardware and bracket welds to make sure nothing is broken that’s causing your rocking.

I have mine in the attic compartment, with the hose coming through the gromet where the TV wires/cable came through. I have removed the TV so the gromet is free of wires. I run my APAP on 12v and have it plugged into the 12v cigarette plug. This has work great for me. Even with the humidifier set at four, it draws very little power. Andrew

I have both my solar charger and my Xantrex inverter / charger set up to charge my lithiums to 13.2V and float them at 13.2V. That keeps them at right around 55% SoC, so pretty much perfect for storage when you want your systems operational and your batteries at a safe SoC (have to keep an eye on the power and make sure it's always on - not a problem for me since my Oliver is stored at home). I do fully charge my batteries about once a month or so as that is recommended by almost all lithium battery manufacturers. If you learn how to properly configure your lithium chargers (configurations change based on use cases), then you can manage your batteries to hopefully get the full potential out of your batteries. For what it's worth, my LifeBlue lithiums have the following SoC at the following voltages (I think all batteries will vary a bit so test your own), and I change the settings regularly based on my use cases: 13.1V = 25% SoC (not used, but nice to know - this is where I would like to recharge if possible) 13.2V = 55% SoC (I use this voltage when I'm storing our trailer at home) 13.3V = 67% SoC (I use this voltage when I'm camping with full power hookups) 13.4V = 98% SoC (I don't use this voltage much) 13.5V = 99% SoC (I use this voltage just before I leave on a trip if I want the most without fully topping off) 13.6V - 13.8V = 100% SoC (achieved with a setting of 14.4V on the charger until the amps drop to zero)

UHMMMM, NO! If you did that, none of your 12 volt devices like lights and water pump would function. You only have to worry about long term storage, when everything else is shut down. While being used for normal camping, the lithiums are fine with full charge coming from solar and the converter. It is just that they are "happier" when stored at a partially discharged state. Maybe, it depends on the battery manufacturer. \What really stresses them is being constantly "topped up", charged those last percent from say 98 to 100%. Such as what happens when you are parked in winter while having them hooked up to shore power or the solar panels. Try to avoid that situation if you can. The solar controller voltage setting can be turned down a little, so it doesn't try charging them that last little bit, but the converter can't do that. That is the reason you should turn off the converter, or unhook the batteries to remove all phantom loads entirely during storage.. Look here: ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6629-how-to-find-happiness-with-lifepo4-lithium-ion-batteries-solacity-article/ John Davies Spokane WA

The correct size metal ring ABS flange is available on Amazon. You will have to glue a short length of 3" diameter black ABS pipe onto the outlet of the flange, using the proper cement for ABS plastic plumbing pipe, to extend it down into the black tank rubber collar seal. You can measure the length of the pipe on your old broken flange to determine the length of pipe to glue to the new flange. Here's the link to the flange and the ABS pipe. Lowe’s also sells the proper primer/cleaner and cement for ABS plastic pipe. CLOSET FLANGE ABS TKO 3" by SIOUX CHIEF MfrPartNo 888-ATM Silver-Line Plastics 3-in x 2-ft Pipe in the ABS DWV Pipe & Fittings department at Lowes.com

As shown in your photo, I did bevel the leading edge of the 3” pipe when I installed my new metal ring flange and pipe. It makes installation easier, along with some dish soap as a lubricant, to get the pipe into the collar seal on top of the black tank. It’s not just a recent problem. Ours is a 2019 trailer so the original all plastic flange lasted a few years before failing completely, but I suspect it was starting to crack well before that. Although it seems new owners are seeing it happen very quickly, most likely due to improper installation at the factory. If you can, you should use a better flange with a metal mounting ring like the one shown in earlier posts. There’s no way I would have gone through all the trouble of removing the toilet just to install yet another one of the cheap all plastic flanges. The all plastic ones seem almost guaranteed to fail over time.

Sorry to hear you have the same issue I had. Oliver really should upgrade to a better flange. I’ll bet a lot of the all plastic flanges are cracked when installed during the manufacturing process if the worker tries to use the flange screws to pull the flange down into place instead of first fully seating the flange and pipe into the seal on the black tank first before installing the screws. It is a tight fit to push the 3” pipe into the rubber collar seal on the top of the black tank, but it just takes a bit of effort and some lubricant like dish soap to push it in. My repair shown in a previous post above was done while on the road, and I wasn’t completely happy with the sloppy glue job I did on the white PVC parts, so I just re-did mine with the proper black 3” ABS flange with stainless steel ring, and a short section of black 3” ABS pipe ordered from Lowe’s. I also installed a new seal between the toilet and flange as well. And 6 screws holding the metal flange ring to the floor now instead of just 4 screws used with the original cheap all plastic flange. The new one is firmly in place now. No more rocking. CLOSET FLANGE ABS TKO 3" by SIOUX CHIEF MfrPartNo 888-ATM https://a.co/d/eZ1WSlw DOMETIC (385311652 Mounting... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BRIDMEA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is a great point, not only is it not a good idea, it is very bad. A used race with a new bearing will probably cause failure in a short time because the used one has some wear, even if it isn’t visible... New Timkens are sold as matched sets, meaning the two parts were machined for a (nearly) perfect fit. Cheap poor quality no-name ones, especially counterfeits, most likely were not, even if they come packed in the same box or blister pack. It is definitely a buyer beware situation. Don’t be a cheapskate if you tow a lot of miles, and never be one if you tow in really remote locations. Also, keep the removed bearings separated, keep track of where they came from so you don’t accidentally install one into the the wrong wheel! That actually means you installed two wrong ones, with two possible failures! I put a blue paper shop towel on the ground at the axle and put the drum and the removed bearings on it, then I take the parts to my bench to clean, lube or replace one set at a time. That greatly reduces the chance that you will have a “senior moment”. But that can still happen, I recently drove in my last inner seal backwards. 😳 I caught my mistake right away but I had to drive to a bearing store for a replacement, and to buy a spare… John Davies Spokane WA

Silicone grease on the rubber seal works, better than spray. I use Dow Corning DC-4 since it comes in a big tube and lasts longer. DC-4 It is military grade and is used for waterproofing electrical connections like your 7 pin lighting connector. Add some onto a spark plug insulator and the rubber boot will slide right off years from now. I haven’t ever used the non-MIL-spec brands, so I can’t comment on their effectiveness. I have used DC-4 for many decades. It should NOT be used on silicone rubber, for example silicone orings, because it wrecks that material. John Davies Spokane WA

Thank you all for the suggestions. We did get to Kennecott and it was beautiful. Hiked out to the glacier and got some great shots of the glacier. I agree that taking the Oliver out to McCarthy wouldn’t be a great idea. We left it at Wrangell View RV Park and went out for the day. Today we came over to Palmer and the drive was up to its Scenic Highway designation. The tip I have so far is to have reservations on the weekends. The locals from Anchorage, Palmer and Wasilla are RVing on weekends. Mid week no problems. we are off to Denali for 5 days before heading down to the Kenai. Plus, you can still use the microwave without the dish! Just do shorter bursts. thanks again.

You will need the Andersen weight distribution hitch and you will need to watch your cargo carrying capacity. Bill

Ours goes upside down on top of that fragile turntable spider thing, resting on an old towel that is folded up around the corners. A plastic Camco dish drainer and a box of Kleenex lie on that to keep it steady, though if the door ever opened of course it all would come out. Check your tire pressures, unless you just forgot to latch the door, something else is probably wrong! 42 to 45 psi for an LE2, NOT 50 60 or 80 especially for nasty pavement or gravel. For ugly low speed and really rough roads drop it by 10 pounds. (You definitely do need a TPMS when running lower AKA correct pressures. Last trip we had around 50 miles of straight flat (small) washboard gravel ranch roads, cruising speed when possible was 35 to 40 mph and nothing shook loose inside the Ollie. But you have to pack your gear so it can’t move around, especially in the overhead cabinets and in drawers, which should be strapped closed. When you get a chance, please try reposting pictures, the first one is lost in space. Enjoy your trip, get to Kennecott copper mine if you are into old ghost towns and equipment. White Horse is worth a couple of days. How are the fuel prices in BC and AK? (Woah, stupid Autocorrect changed fuel to girl!) John Davies Spokane WA

We ordered a new truck in the middle of June. We got it a little over a week ago. I replaced our 2017 Silverado 2500 HD with a Silverado 3500 HD. The reason for my decision was to increase the payload capacity of our tow vehicle. For those of you who know us personally, you've seen all that we carry. For those that we've not had the pleasure to yet meet, suffice it to say that the load is legendary. I'll never be accused of minimalism and when it comes to my stuff, like the American Express advertisements of old, I... "don't leave home without it..." The 2500 HD had a cargo capacity of 2110 pounds, But, upon taking into account the topper, front hitch, two tier bed slide, Dometic fridge, a rather large tool box, two adults, three dogs, hitch, tongue weight and THEN all the assorted accoutrements of camping, we found ourselves about 500-600 pounds overweight. The new truck has taken care of that deficit and them some. As far as the price went, being a 2022, we did not know what it would cost at the time we ordered it. I had gone online and "built" a 2021 to the same specs but in June, there was no provision to spec out a 2022. But, everything I read said not to expect the price to go up too much for the model year change. When the truck arrived it was essentially the same price as the previous year model. The salesman had told me not to expect any rebates and incentives as none of the different manufacturers were offering any. But the owner of the dealership in Memphis is a lifelong friend of my son-in-law and he gave me a good deal. With our trade in we got out the door for about twice what a new Ferrari 275 GTB would have cost you in 1965. Now "all" I've got to do is re-install all the gear that came from the old truck into the new one.

I’m getting better mileage with my 2500 diesel than I did with either of my last two half tons both around town and towing. That will be offset some with maintenance costs of the diesel. It is slightly larger but works fine as a daily driver, comfort is great - it has all the gadgets and gizmos. But, here in Texas 3/4 tons are everywhere…. Mike

I absolutely agree with your last comment about there not being a manufacturer presently making a bad truck. I've now owned two F-150 ecoboost trucks in a row (2011 and presently a 2017). I live in the southern mountains of North Carolina and spend at least two months each summer out West in the mountains chasing trout. I've never had an issue with either truck pulling my Ollie Elite II. Both trucks have been very comfortable even though I have the fixed running boards 😁. Having said this, I'm looking forward to seeing the new Toyota next week while at the beach - it'll give me something to do on that rainy afternoon that always seems to happen. Finally, yes, my 2017 and 2011 both have/had adjustable pedals and steering with memory for at least a couple of drivers. Bill p.s. I see that K-n-J are going to be at the Florida mini-rally. I'll be there too - let's talk!

The F150 is my wife's favorite truck of the the half-ton variety. She likes all of the bells and whistles, especially those slide out running boards. She likes the interior best in the Ford. If the wife's not happy then nobody's happy. My impression is that no manufacturer is making a bad truck. There's a lot of competition.

FWIW, my sister-in-law is a little shorter than your wife, and she loves driving my brother's F150, even towing a trailer. The seats are really comfortable, and plenty of adjustments. His has the slideout running boards, which are really nice for her. I think the new f150s still have the adjustable pedals, which is a really nice feature for shorter people. My daily driver is a 2005 Silverado, and as much as I'd love to have a new truck, it will be very very hard to part with it someday. I really enjoy driving that truck. I love the greater visibility of a big truck windshield, and sitting up higher, so I can see further ahead than in a car or smaller suv. For whatever reason, I don't enjoy my husband's Ram nearly as much. I think it's the way the hood slopes away, and I am, of course, used to a different truck. Plus, I don't find the seats to be as comfortable as Ford or Chevy, for me. I just can't find a seat adjustment that keeps my left leg happy. He loves it, though. Good luck in your search.

Just my opinion, but is is going to be really easy to find any old 3/4 ton with enough payload, but most old half tons are probably going to be marginal in that department, just as are the new ones. And older trucks are down on power, so a bigger truck is more likely to have a stouter engine. Besides, if they drive around in a rough riding older truck, it will make their transition to a new one all the sweeter. John Davies Spokane WA

Let's face it. Inflation is here to stay. Going back to Economics 101; if the government prints more money then prices will rise. Part of the reason I placed an order for an LE II now is because that Ollie will be a lot more expensive in a year or two. I'm hoping that the price of trucks and automobiles will drop a bit in the short term. Over the long term, everything will be much more expensive. I agree with you on the half-ton as a daily driver. My 5' 3" 100 lb bride will be driving it on occasion--our motivation for looking at the Chevy Colorado. She refuses to tackle any vehicle bigger than a F150. We are also waiting for the new Tundra. The V-6 turbo, hybrid and coil spring suspension is worth a look.

My opinion is the car manufacturers will probably offer large incentives down the road again. However, over the next year or two, expect the msrp to increase rapidly to offset some of the “savings”. Oliver has had some pretty large hikes as well recently. A half ton is a lot easier to live with as a daily driver and gets better mileage. The HD models haul like a dream but drink like a fish. They can also feel more “truck like” in the suspension department when cruising empty.

On the 19th. Should be interesting. Bill

We're going to look at the 2022 Tundra to be unveiled later this month. Towed our LE2 many thousand miles with a 2016 Tundra and it did a fine job. Only problem with the 2016 Tundra, always approaching gross vehicle weight ready to camp (we are gear minimalist) with Ollie connected. Hoping the new Tundra will have a larger payload, will see.

Even with a “1/2 ton” pickup, make sure you understand and pay close attention to ALL the relevant ratings. There are specs for towing capacity, tongue weight (different capabilities with and without a weight distribution hitch), payload capacity (also called cargo capacity), GCWR (gross combined weight rating), etc. Even two of the same model trucks like an F-150 can have significantly different towing capabilities depending how it’s equipped. I have an F-250 which is generally classified as a “3/4 ton” truck, but mine as equipped from Ford is rated for up to 3,334 pounds of cargo, and 12,600 pounds of towing. So I can technically put more than a TON of weight in the pickup bed as cargo and still have payload to spare for tongue weight while towing my Ollie.

My experience towing an EII all around the US confirms the 3/4 ton class is as Mike says - towing heaven. Many do tow with less and have a fine time. Now - as we have moved on from Ollie - I am considering downsizing my 2018 GMC duramax 2500 4x4. It is simply more truck than I need right now. And yes - used truck prices are insane - some going for more than a new similar unit. The KBB trade in on my truck is higher than I would have thought, so I may pull the trigger when the "new" truck arrives. There are no trucks I favor within several hundred miles of our home. The new truck price is lower than similar used. Insane. But one is on the lot the other -"in transit" Were I to choose all over again - the 3/4 ton is what I would choose. GM has a new gas engine - I would consider. Below is my former Ollie and the TV. Good luck in your search

The chip shortage is making things tough. I notice dealers around here with half empty lots. It’s kind of depressing. The good news is that the chip shortage isn’t affecting Oliver production! Here are my thoughts on your questions: 1. I’ve towed with a Tacoma, half ton and now 3/4 ton. The smaller vehicle can tow an LEII but has significant limitations. Fuel tank size coupled with low gas mileage (small engine working hard) means you need to stop for gas frequently. Payload will be at the limit if not over when you figure tongue weight, bodies and stuff. A half ton seems to be the sweet spot, if configured with adequate payload and towing specs. A 3/4 ton is towing heaven. 2. See above. Check the smaller truck for payload and gas tank size. 3. How do you intend on camping? 2WD is fine if you stay on the pavement. If you are going to venture off the pavement any, the 4WD. We were recently at a campsite (state park) in Vermont that was grass. It had rained and if I didn’t have 4WD I would have been stuck trying to get up the small hill to the paved road. 4. It might be time to start looking at Carmax. I used them once and it was a good experience. I can provide details if you’re interested. Just my thoughts, good luck! Mike