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We just returned home from an amazing 8 days at Huntington Beach SP only 247 miles away from our home. Located right on the Atlantic Ocean with 3 miles of beach front and no high rises hotels or homes ever yay! Our weather the entire time was stellar! We took our bicycles and rode every path on the park. There are plenty of alligators 🐊 and we spotted a few while out riding in the lake and swampy areas. We are mountain campers, but we need a beach fix this will be our go to SP. The staff at this park really worked hard to get it back up and running after Ian blew through at high tide. It’s amazing what the park staff and volunteers got accomplished cleaning up in a very short turnaround . Our site was less than a 5 min walk to the beach. I even cheffed up some fresh blackened shrimp. 🍤 A very memorable stay! 😊

Since you apparently have an external heating pad, I infer that you have the Lithium Pro Package in your Elite II with three Lithionics 130Ah G31 batteries. If you had the Platinum package (with internal battery heaters), you could leave the batteries on if connected to shore power. See the Lithionics Storage Procedure document attached below: But, according to that Storage Procedure, the only "safe harbor" for Lithionics batteries without the internal heater is to remove the batteries from the trailer so you can place them in a temperature-controlled environment, and follow the protocols for charge/discharge cycles, per the Storage Procedure. Edit added on November 25, 2022: But, Oliver is installing external battery heaters with the Lithium Pro package; it was included with ours. And, Mike Sharpe from Oliver service has advised that "per Lithionics", where the external battery heater is installed, and turned on, you can leave the batteries in the trailer, connected to shore power, just like the batteries with internal heaters covered by the Rev. 7 storage procedure attached below. Lithionics Storage Procedure Rev.7.pdf

When I first got my Ollie I slept with my head at the nightstand (I'm 6', 165 pounds). But after a couple of night of my elbows hitting either the nightstand or the curved wall, I did a 180 and now sleep with feet at the nightstand. Much more room for the elbows. If you are not convinced by the posts above or feel you need more information then you might want to PM (private message) Patriot since he is reasonably tall. At 6' I can stand up straight in the shower - barely. Shortly after buying my Ollie I spend hours building a shower mat - similar to Foy's mat but not as nice as his. Unfortunately, I never thought about the reduction of vertical room and sure enough the day I finished and proudly took it out to the Ollie I realized that either I would now have to shower while bending over or give it away. Needless to say - it belongs to someone else now.😥 Bill

I'm just 6'3 an now only 220 pounds. The "twin beds" work fine. I keep the nose of Ollie a bit high to keep the refrigerator from swinging too far towards the entrance door and to better drain the shower. I sleep feet aft. Like JD, I usually keep the feet in the nightstand corner of the aft end of the mattress. We cut and tailored with a butcher knife a queen six inch foam pad to place over the stock OTT mattress. It was a ton less expensive than mattress upgrade and we really like them. When they wear out, I'll get the 4" version for reasons hinted below. For special events, 🙂 we take the dinette area fiberglass storage covers, wrap each of them in a towel and place them upside down on the two bed rails between the two twin sleeping areas. Then use some of the cushions for padding and elevation leveling. Results in a suitable larger area for "fun".

6’6”. 250 lbs. I make it work. At 6’2” he should fit just right.

It seems that in the modern world, with our modern lingo, "opening a ticket" is the equivalent of saying, "Hey, just want to give you guys a heads up on something." I've opened tickets on minor little things that were really questions more than complaints about the trailer. I think it's how they keep track of customer feedback. Of course, they could just read all the forums (which I know they do sometimes) but that would take a while!

I am retired USAF and know the expression well, "click-click" (radio thing for Airmen) - we are taking delivery of our LE II in March of '23 (seems like forever) but will be back camping before we know it. I am actually planning to leave the full-time workforce at the end of April and then head to the Rally in May. Hope to see you there! Brian

Understood. But, Lithionics advises in its Rev. 7 Storage Procedure that their batteries with internal heaters will be fine (with no State-of-Charge concerns) if left connected to shore power during winter storage. The Rev. 7 Storage Procedure document states: "If your battery has the Lithionics Internal Heater, and you are subject to winter conditions, keep the battery ON, solar ON and plugged into shore power...This will keep the heater running and protect your battery. Doing this will eliminate the procedures below." The "procedures below" include the discharge/recharge protocol, which is required when the batteries with internal heaters are removed for storage, but not when left connected to shore power.

That's and easy one - it depends.😁 Seriously, there are those that like to take some of the weight off the suspension and/or tires during storage and others that simply leave things alone. I'm in the leave it alone camp. Any "flat spots" in good tires will work themselves out once the tires are warm and rolling down the road. I'm not convinced that either the shocks or the leaf springs will "set" in a certain spot due to not flexing over the winter. But, I do store my Ollie in a fairly protected - from wind - and the winters we have here in western North Carolina are really not very bad. Bill

Thanks for the replies & just confirming my perspective. My O is 2.5 weeks old and I am very pleased overall & very impressed with the quality & the O staff (good people!). However, I (as a boat & furniture woodworker) can not in anyway understand the O use of too long of bolts that are just wrong is wrong. No woodworker would do this. I checked the door in the showroom and the same incorrect bolts/construction is on the show O2. I hope O is listening and will correct this error going forward. Disappointing. Easy for me to fix, but...

I carry two hydraulic jack stands with me. They serve two purposes; 1) to jack the trailer for wheel service and : 2) to place under the front corners of my trailer when camping to eliminate wobble or rocking when walking inside the trailer. Have found them to be extremely useful. Wouldn't leave home without them. Here's a link: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwb-620471?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIitDm9vrh-gIVwuDICh0wdAmXEAQYAiABEgI0F_D_BwE

Yes - Connect coax cable to campground pedestal and then to "cable" input on the exterior of the Ollie. Then set TV control for "cable" versus "over the air". Then "scan" for channels. Once the scan is done you should be all set and the TV should show you on the screen whatever program is currently on the first channel found. Bill

The first part is debatable, unless you like the look of an aircraft fuselage with oxidized aluminum, hail dents and popped rivets.... I think a clean and polished Ollie is simply stunning outside. And in my experience most casual passerby seem to think so too. Anyway, this is an Ollie forum, you are not supposed to say nice things about other brands 😉 John Davies Spokane WA

If the batteries (Lithionics) are turned off during long-term storage can they be left out in the cold (freezing) or should they be kept warm? Obviously the heating pad won’t work with the batteries off. Sounds like they don’t tolerate charging in cold weather. Also what do people do with solar panels? Is it possible to disable/disconnect them? Is that what the Blue Seas switch is for?

I am interested in purchasing an Oliver trailer but first would like feedback on the bed options. My husband is a large guy...6'2", 245 lbs. He thinks the twin option is doable, but I am skeptical. I would appreciate hearing from folks who own the twin option. Do you have a problem with hitting the nightstand and is it roomy enough?

We only store ours for a month or two at a time and I never put down the stabilizer jacks. Mike

Welcome to the forum! FYI these are actually bunk sized mattresses, 8 inches narrower than an actual twin. If you can find a kids bunk mattress to try out, that would give you both an idea of how little room there is…. this is a pet peeve of mine, I ordered all new Twin linens before delivery and they were WAY to big. I think it is highly deceptive that Oliver does not mention this. I am 5’10” and 165, I fit fine but I was always waking up when my feet or elbow bumped the unyielding walls or the nightstand. I now use high density foam (camping pad) there. It is much nicer to bump into that than into a rock hard chilly sidewall. I also sleep better without the cold infiltration in the shoulder camping season, and the foam keeps the covers tucked in and you don’t lose your phone or glasses down in the crack. I do put my feet into the inside corner rather than into the shorter curved part. I once showed my Ollie to a couple, the man was large and 6’4”. He found the low bath ceiling to be unacceptable, they decided to not buy one. You both need to see an Ollie in person to check the dimensions. If I were 6’2” I would have the big mattress! Who can identify the little tray on the nightstand?😬 John Davies Spokane WA

I’m 6’3”, was 245lbs. Depending on your pillow his feet will likely touch the rear wall periodically. Nightstand not issue if feet at that end. Width isn’t too bad, but there is a wall on one side. 🙂 Works for me and I tend to rotate a lot at night. In photo, head propped up reading at the moment. About 6” to rear wall

@Dorrie Hall They are small twins at 30 X 75 but we find them still quite adequate and comfortable and I share my 30” with my dog! Many people sleep with their head towards the door with feet next to the nightstand to avoid hitting the nightstand as well as to be facing the TV for watching. We sleep with our head next to the nightstand with no issues.

Oliver staff doesn't routinely watch the forum. Please, do open a ticket with any safety or repair item, even if you fix it yourself. Production can't fix a problem they're not aware of. Exactly, @Cameron, give them a heads up. And, thank you for doing that.

Ugly! I'd consider myself lucky at this point because the situation could have been MUCH worse. Glad you caught it in time before something really bad happened. Bill

My feeling is that ANY problem that causes injury should be reported, I opened a ticket on the bathroom door handle because I laid open my forehead while learning over to wipe down the wall below the mirror. The handle has very sharp corners, a silly, minor error on their part. But it should be corrected! Or a service bulletin should be issued, alerting owners. (I ground the corners off.) John Davies Spokane WA

I assume that you are talking about the exterior fittings - city water, fresh water, winterization and black tank cleaning ports. At the temps you are talking about I would not worry about these. Yes if you have something to wrap around them it would not hurt but, again, I would not worry. As a note - these exterior fittings are one of the vulnerable places that many people forget about when winterizing. These take a couple of "pumps" of anti-freeze when doing the regular winterization process with a pump like THIS. Bill

I understand completely but don't worry about it. I do know (within reason) that the Oliver staff sincerely appreciates the input of owners - both good and bad. Bill

TG2. Did not. New to the process. Will do. I must stress I am very pleased with all the O staff I have met and do not want to be an unnecessary pain in... Thanks.

I will be keenly interested in the results of your test. My wife and I take delivery of our Elite II with the Lithium Pro Package on November 10. We plan to winterize and store it in an outbuilding when we get back to Idaho in late November. Like you, we have shore power available in the storage shed. I would love to be able to do what the Lithionics Rev. 7 Storage Procedure instructs for their batteries with internal heaters: leave the trailer connected to shore power and walk away for the winter. I do not yet know if that is recommended for Lithionics batteries with external battery heaters. If so, why does Lithionics limit their Rev. 7 winterizing instructions to batteries with internal heaters? For what it's worth, this is what Oliver says about the external battery heater in the Knowledge Base under the topic Electrical Systems: "The heating pad is powered by the on board battery bank in the camper. It is controlled by the lighted switch and an ambient temperature sensor which measures the internal temperature of the battery box, not the batteries. When the switch is turned on and the internal ambient temperature falls to 35 degrees the heating pad will come on and heat up to 135 degrees until the ambient temperature reaches 45 degrees and then the pad will shut off. Once the switch is turned on the light should come on to let you know the system is on. The power passes through the switch and into the temperature sensor that then controls when the heating pad turns on and off." I infer from this language that the external battery heater is 12V, since it is powered by the "on board battery bank." It is my understanding (and someone please correct me if I am wrong), that the Xantrex inverter/charger transforms incoming 120V shore power (or solar power) to the proper voltage to charge the batteries, depending on what the battery "needs" at the time--something in the 13-14+V range. It seems intuitive to me that in cold weather, the shore power connection should keep the batteries charged if they are left on, so the batteries, in turn, can power the external battery heater, which should keep the Lithionics G31 batteries above freezing, enabling them to receive a charge. Logically, that should be how the Lithionics 315 Ah batteries with internal heaters are kept safe, per the Lithionics Rev.7 Storage Procedure. But, I know just enough about electrical systems, particularly the combined 120V/12V systems in an RV, to be dangerous. So, I hope one or more of the electrically-savvy Oliver owners out there will weigh in, and correct what I have said here if I am wrong. I offer one other significant datum. I emailed Lithionics yesterday asking if the external battery heater Oliver installs with the Lithium Pro Package will enable me to safely leave the three G31 batteries in the Elite II battery box connected to shore power over the winter. Reuben, the helpful gentleman from Lithionics who called me in response to my email message, was not sure. But he did advise that one of the KF series chargers Lithionics sells would keep the G31 batteries safe over the winter, in conjunction with the external battery heater installed by Oliver. He recommended the KF12V20DL, which is a 20A, 12V Lithium battery charger. I would really like to avoid removing the batteries from the trailer every year, storing them in a temperature-controlled building and running periodic charge/discharge cycles while the trailer is in winter storage. If just connecting the trailer to shore power is not recommended, then I may buy a KF series charger from Lithionics so I can avoid having to follow the protocol detailed in the Lithionics Rev. 7 Storage Procedure.

I am not sure when they stopped offering the mirrored doors. I quite like them because they make the inside seem way bigger than it actually is. Does anyone know at what Hull number this option was ended? I spent three nights at Heyburn State Park, ID, Hawley’s Landing CG, $92 with power and water, with a senior midweek discount taken away and a $10 res fee added. It is about 30 miles south of Coeur d’Alene, next to the wonderful Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes bike trail. I am glad I had power because the trees are packed in there, I rarely even saw a piece of sun. One night I woke up at 2:00 am and could not get back to sleep, so I started playing around with my iPhone 13 Mini, which has amazing night mode. Here are a bunch of shots with various interior lighting on or off. No flash, unedited. The first one is no cabin lights, just various LEDS from the appliances and my box heater (under the table) and HEPA air cleaner (in the bathroom). No lights: Cabinet lights only: Cabinet and puddle lights: The green LED is the cell booster: This is my favorite Hall of Mirrors shot: All lights on - Ouch!: John Davies Spokane WA

Did you mean $32? $92 seems steep for a SP, esp in Idaho. I just caught up...I see, 3 nights. The other replies were not there when I first read the post. Makes sense now. Brian

Welcome! Hope you are enjoying your new Ollie!

It’s even prettier in person!😍

I just replaced mine, you’ll need four for an Elite II. Monroe Shocks & Struts Magnum RV 555001 Shock AbsorberMonroe Shocks & Struts Magnum RV 555001 Shock Absorber https://www.amazon.com/Monroe-555001-Gas-Magnum-Shock-Absorber/dp/B000C53RR6/ref=sxts_rp_s_a_1_0?content-id=amzn1.sym.fcbf2b35-b342-496e-87b6-d95b51fd1abd%3Aamzn1.sym.fcbf2b35-b342-496e-87b6-d95b51fd1abd&crid=2RJE8U8YPP2GL&cv_ct_cx=555001+monroe&keywords=555001+monroe&pd_rd_i=B000C53RR6&pd_rd_r=90e48016-e3ee-4551-8ce8-0e8b1fed491a&pd_rd_w=2UL1u&pd_rd_wg=OtqDu&pf_rd_p=fcbf2b35-b342-496e-87b6-d95b51fd1abd&pf_rd_r=R6AR2HNZZ3W4CKAD4NZ9&psc=1&qid=1665797842&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIwLjU5IiwicXNhIjoiMC4zMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=555001%2Caps%2C353&sr=1-1-ea136695-3596-4534-80e7-1570345d02b9

Yep - off with their heads! A dab of white paint or fingernail polish will help with looks and sealing (even though mine have never budged since new). Bill

Very cool photos!! Thank you for sharing.

Ok, Airstream may be the coolest exterior, but Oliver has the coolest interior, by far, as proven by your pix!

Very TRON! Love the effect of the mirrors

Looks like Halloween came early

Now all you need is a Blue Man Group outfit! All of this at 2am? Did you hit that bike trail too hard or not hard enough? Bill

Welcome! That's a great looking combination you have. As you've already found, there's a wealth of information here, and wonderful people more than willing to share. Numbers are going up fast! I don't think we'll be 1313 come March 28th, since they're building the trailers os quickly. If we were 1313, I was going to name the trailer Mockingbird. 🤪

Recommend The Collar and a ABUS Diskus lock for when connected. A lot of us use this and it prevents the simple override of the hitch latch noted above

Top of the ball should be about 24” +/- 1/2” from the ground to calculate your hitch drop needed. And for locking the Bulldog coupler while towing, most of us use this collar with a padlock. "The Collar" Trailer Hitch Lock... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HL2NM0K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Unless you have previously replaced the AGM batteries in your 2018 Elite, it is no surprise they are dead. 4+ years is within the expected life of batteries with lead-acid chemistry, including Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries. Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries cost quite a bit more, but have a much longer life, particularly if they are not used daily. Unlike AGM batteries, LiFePO4 battery life depends much more on usage than just the passage of time. So, unless you are full timing in your Oliver, you will likely get 10 years or more from LiFePO4 batteries. Worth the additional investment, in my judgment. There are some very useful threads on this Forum describing upgrades in Olivers from AGM to LiFePO4 batteries, including replacement of the converter. In your shoes, I would invest in a lithium upgrade. Otherwise you will likely be once again replacing your new AGMs 4-6 years from now.

I never camp without Thermacell! Mosquitos love me (feeling is not mutual) I have 2 of these Thermacells, a rechargeable and a patio version. They work so well that I use them at home too. What do you use to keep mosquitos away? Thermacell Mosquito Repellent E-Series Rechargeable Repeller with 20’ Mosquito Protection Zone; Includes 12-Hr Repellent Refill; No Spray, Flame or Scent; DEET-Free Bug Spray Alternative https://a.co/d/1UtLtSi

We have the Luminoodle string lights, and I added the optional dimmer. I hate bright lights around camp, and especially the folks in campgrounds that leave them on all night. Might as well camp at Walmart. 😁 With the squaredrop, we hang a string inside the outhouse tent for those middle of the night excursions. We won’t need to do that once our Oliver is ready!! inside our Clam, we use either Luci inflatable lights at the lowest setting, or, more likely, citronella candles. @Katjo that’s not my bag holder. I was just noting that we use one of my old tube socks. 😉 Steve

As an OTR driver, I learned the mantra, "Didn't hit anything, nobody died. Good day!" Enjoy your travels

John - Years prior to owning an Oliver I started carrying small compact air compressors in all my vehicles. For the most part, these have been cheap, relatively small compressors that are really only good enough to top off the air pressure in my tires. None of them have ever been of a size or quality such that they could be used for winterizing the Oliver. Besides, I have two shop air compressors at the house that I could use if I wanted to winterize in that manner - which I don't as I use the anti-freeze method which I believe to be just about as easy and more reliable. On a related note - using an air compressor for purposes of blowing dirt/dust out of areas near and around propane igniters can present problems if you blow that air into things like the propane burner jets. It is safer and easier to simply carry a small can of compressed air (you can get them at the Dollar Store for $1.25 😁). If you are still interested in a Viair, you might want to contact the people at technorv.com and/or take a look at as many YouTube videos about Viair as you can. Bill

Glad to see all is well. Enjoy the Florida weather if it warms up. 52dgs today in Ocala that’s sub zero weather for us locals. Enjoy the keys. safe travels

For the less bearing experienced, the "Cup" is the running surface of the bearing housing. Some refer to this replacement surface as the "Bearing Race". They are the same part, and should always be replaced when replacing the bearings. The reason for buying eight seals is that you need to replace the seals at each surface. The Timken bearings will last many many years with good grease and service. The seals generally get damaged in their removal process. They are cheap and saving a few $$ is nothing compared to a seal failure allowing grease into the brakes! I disassemble, clean with brake cleaner, dry and re-grease at the start of each season. But then I am also covering at least 8,000 miles a season. The cheap Dexter bearings IMHO should be trashed at your first or second service depending on your use. For the bearings and seal face, this is the synthetic grease that John Davies recommended, and many of us are using. I also highly recommend it: Red Line 80401 CV-2 Synthetic Grease with Moly (14 Oz Jars) . It is available via Amazon. Some owners use a "bearing grease press" to fill the bearings with grease before installation. I have tried some, and found that I waste a lot of grease with them. So, like many older salts, we just use the palm of our hand and a dollop of grease, kneading the bearing into the grease from both sides. This works very well, saves grease, and gives you the satisfaction of KNOWING that your new bearings are well lubricated. From Dexter, here is the Bearing Adjustment and Hub Replacement process: Finally, having a pile of rags and a trash bag handy is really helpful. Good luck and safe travels, Geronimo John

I am glad to learn this, as we haven't covered ours yet (we took it home this past June) and are happy how the solar takes care of everything, excepting the AC. At 5,000 feet in SE Arizona, we get intense sun but not unbearable heat. I like parking it on our property. I visit inside everyday to adjust the lights (keep the interior courtesy lights on at night) and the fan (I've been keeping it up high during the day to ventilate). I am happy to read that keeping it waxed can let the gelcoat hold up well in the sun. We might consider other options later, but are satisfied with just using the wheel covers for now.

I feel very fortunate to have the situation I do. I built my house, with attached garage, long before I thought about getting an Oliver, but it turns out it fits in! How nice it is to have it there ready to go, or convenient to work on and out of the sun. I keep it plugged in and we even go out there for movie nights sometimes. When getting ready for a trip, the fridge can be on for days as needed, or left on for days after we get back. No winterizing is needed because the garage has a solar heated radiant floor. One of my neighbors has a motorhome they keep inside a metal building built just for that purpose and open where they drive it in. Dirt floor. Very effective cover that is much easier to build than a conventional garage and allows their unit to be at home. If you have room, this is a good alternative to outside storage off your property. I remember when I first went to look at our future Ollie. It was parked in a storage yard, outside in full sun in the summer. Had been for three months or so and was all closed up tight. It didn't seem hot inside and I was impressed. I was also impressed at how it stood out amongst all the other trailers there.

Our trailer has been stored outside, without a cover, in Florida sun, for almost ten years. It spends six months a year on the road, or in North Carolina... No cover. The Marine gelcoat cleans up well. We wax it twice a year with 3m Marine wax, as we do for our boats. I think it helps with uv protection. Sherry