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To all those that served in our military. Post up a photo or (2) of the good ole days! 🇺🇸 Thank you for serving our country. Pattiot 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸 Desert Shield, Desert Storm, Desert Calm. 90-91

Thanks to all who answered the call to serve! Our Country owes a debt of gratitude to all of you! Mike USN 1983-2007

Everyone knows someone or is related to someone who has sacrificed for our country. God bless them all. We wouldn't have the freedom and prosperity we enjoy without them. My son, dad and his brothers all served in combat. Dad's oldest brother in the Battle of the Bulge. He was never normal after coming home. Dad talked little about his experiences in the Korean war. But I've seen the pictures he brought home. You would never know such a balanced man lived through hell on earth right out of high school. Thank you Veterans!

My dad, right after joining the Marines in 1942. He served the remainder of the war in the South Pacific.

Nov 10, 2022 Update: I had provided Jason E. the manufacturers info and also our concern about using their MAX number for lugs. He sent it up the chain at OTT. Below is Jason's response to the lug not torque question. Glad to hear that OTT has recognized the reality of torque tool accuracy and not having owners exceeding the MFG maximum recommended lug nut torque. Especially when the MFG's provide a torque range. So basically, a small victory for the owner peanut gallery I guess. Personally I am going to use 100 ft lbs on my aluminum rim lugs. Gives me ten pounds over or under for my torque wrench accuracy. GJ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From: Jason Essary <Oliver@olivertraveltrailersservice.zohodesk.com> Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2022 4:25 AM To: John P. Russell, Jr. <jprredhorse@gmail.com> Subject: Re:[## 12307 ##] Tire Pressure Overstatement for many OTT units using aluminum 16" Rims Hey John, I have been informed that after speaking with the wheel vendor that they have stated that the wheel torque should be between 90 - 120ft lbs. With this being said Oliver has decided to drop our torque from the 120ft lbs down to 110ft lbs. Regards, Jason D. Essary Customer Service Director ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Finished off the basement floor with some leftover vinyl flooring and installed a couple of light bars... On to the next project!

Thanks for all that served!!🇺🇸 Manny, US Army 1971-1973. 3rd Armored Cav.

Thank you, ADK, Scuba and John. Disconnect, insurance…. Got it now. Easy enough to leave them in.

thanks guys. I edited my post. Speed reading... BAD 🙂

That sucker will come down????? We've always just both lay with our heads under it and look up at the screen. I'll be a.....

My dad served with the Army in the Pacific in WW2. My oldest brother was an Army rifleman in Vietnam. Many thanks to all who served in the past and those who serve now.

Thank you to all that are active, those who have served and those who have died for our freedom. My Dad served 4 years in the United States Air Force during the Korean War. Forever my Hero.🇺🇸

Granted this post is not about our "Wonder Egg's". However more than a few of us are towing our OTT's with late model Fords with the very capable 3.5L EcoBoost engines. This post BRIEFLY addresses those engines and their faults. ENGINE GENERATIONS: · Gen 1: 2011 – 2016: (Have problems with: Phaser Rattle, Turbo’s, Timing Set, Others) · Gen 2: 2016 – 2017: (Fixed about all the Gen 1 issues except the Phaser Rattle issue) · Gen 2: 2021+ (No new problems Identified that I am aware of, but they now have an again redesigned phasers. UPDATED PHASERS: Old part numbers start with a HC3S. The new phaser stock numbers start with ML3Z. New ones have a semi-enclosed face (Can’t see sprocket). This semi-enclosed face I suspect captures oil to lube the cam sprocket while system oil pressure builds and stabilizes. With oil, the phaser rattle is reported to be solved. Stock numbers for the new design are: · ML3Z – 6256A Cam Intake Phaser · ML3Z – 6C525A Cam Exhaust Phaser Any owner of Ecoboost engines model year 2020 and older: Make sure you get the new Phasers for your engine, not old stock as Ford is currently (as of this date) still selling and using. For more info about this topic, kindly review this video:

I also have a bit over 40K miles on our 2019. Guessing that 75% of those miles have been pulling hard with our OE2 in tow. Vast majority at interstate speed (plus) from TX to mountain sites out west. Because of the phaser rattle history on these engines, I purchased the FORD extended warranty. Like you, we have had no issues at all and also are consistently amazed with this engine. 🙂 For every dry start (Not having been run for a few days or longer), I use what I call the F-150 EcoBoost Forum "Full Throttle No Start" procedure to pressurize the oil system without the engine getting fuel. I believe that using this process has and will greatly extend the life of the old style phasers: Hold the gas pedal to the floor. This action tells the computer to not allow the fuel injectors to send fuel into the combustion chambers. No fuel and your motor will not start. Crank your engine for 10 to 15 secs at a time. Wait a bit in-between spins so the starter can cool a bit. While spinning the engine, watch your oil pressure gauge. It will climb as the oil pump pressurizes the oil galleries, turbos, timing chains and most importantly your phasers. When the oil pressure reaches "normal", take your foot off the gas peddle and your engine will fire off and run. I won a beer off my brother who said the above would not work. It does on all the Ford EcoBoost engines we have tried it on. GJ

This would be correct.

Under "normal" circumstances, the trailer brakes and tail lights/directional signals are powered by the tow vehicle. HOWEVER... in the case of a tow vehicle / trailer disconnect, the trailer battery is required to power the trailer brakes when the emergency disconnect cable/switch is engaged. Without research, I suspect it is likely illegal in most states to pull a trailer with electric brakes and no on-board battery in case of a disconnect...

Certainly there are a number of automotive suppliers that have 12 volt LED lights - think marker lights, grill lights and the such. There are even LED lights that come in a strip that can be cut to length and I assume that the amber color would be available. Like THESE perhaps? Let the search begin! Good Luck! Bill

My apologies for confusing courtesy and porch lights! Mossey

I've been guilty of the same. No worries.

I think JED said, if registering a trailer in Canada Still and all, after many trips to Alaska, through Canada, of course, I'd want mudflaps. We installed them in 2008.

Hi y'all. We left Hohenwald today and drove to David Crockett State Park. It towed great behind our 2017 Ford Expedition EL with heavy duty tow package. There were some steep (to my surprise) sections and it pulled OK. We will be going over the Rockies so that will be a good test. So far, I am very pleased with Oliver.

Well, you’re way ahead of me. This is the current state of disrepair in my basement. About to start rerouting plumbing. o

"As I said before, few people ever get them calibrated. Or you could buy one of these: https://www.protorquetools.com/torque-calibration-systems/cdi-calibration-systems/" Mine looks like the one in this thread with the nut on the end of the handle and the spin dial. It's supposed to be accurate to +/- 4%. That's good enough for me. When you buy that torque wrench calibration machine for $107k let us all know so we can calibrate our wrenches. If it's not too much problem you could bring it to a rally. TIA John

My 2021 model brackets are the same. Before I picked it up from factory, I read a post on this forum, or perhaps Facebook, from an owner that had a panel come off due to the fastener knob working loose, did some expensive damage. Then I read about JDs mod. This was the first mod I did, first afternoon after picking up at the campground. It’s quick, easy & cheap insurance. Thanks JD!

A man after my own heart…

In a pinch I've also used a bolt with a hex head on it that's the right size before. I clamped the bolt on the threads with a pair of vice grips or something and then you can use the bolt head as a hex wrench. 🙂

We have found the coolest new tow vehicle. A restored 1968 Oliver 1250 tractor. We can also use it to clear an area to camp in.

I have struggled with that, too. Our mpg drops, with the trailer in tow. Offsets? At home, our ac and/or heat in our larger home runs less than when we're home. Though we are very careful with water and power at home, we're even more conscious of our use, with the trailer. We run our trailer primarily on solar. (But that's also true of our home, and our sail boat .) We do some long runs, driving, and typically stay a bit. Sometimes days. Sometimes weeks, or longer. During that time, we rarely "go to town," so those short runs eliminate some of the daily drives we would do at home. Both our current tow vehicles are over 14 years old, and our trailer is now in its 15th season. Boat is 45 years old. Durability/longevity is also part of eco economy. We try very hard to leave a small footprint. We all have to live within our conscience confines. I'm pretty much ok with ours, though I'm sure we could also do better.

Speaking of batteries, this may just be the one to first answer the majority of remaining objections to evs. ONE (Our Next Energy) just released a video of their new battery technology, retrofitted into a Tesla S. It drove (in cold December Michigan) a real world 752 mile trip without recharging. The car averaged 55 mph. The battery used the same physical space as original Tesla battery. No, it wasn't towing anything, but it didn't have to stop for charging. At all. Backed by BMW, Gates, and Bezos. You can scroll down to see their video on the website main page: https://one.ai/range/

I like these outside courtesy lights. They allow one to see what might be on the ground at night on both sides of the trailer, whether it be a puddle or a snake. One upgrade I would have liked to have is two more courtesy lights--one at the back and one at the front of the trailer, enabling one to see the ground all around the Ollie.

I call those puddle lights, like the ones in some cars that illuminate the ground as you exit the door. They are exactly the same lights as those inside the cabin down low, and they are LED with two dinky wires coming out the back. If you have a dead one it most likely has failed internally and you just need to replace the assembly. OTH maybe a spliced connection has failed, you could remove the light and test the power wire with a voltmeter, and check the ground wire with an ohmmeter. Use a flat screwdriver to CAREFULLY pry the steel cover off the light, don’t damage the gelcoat. (Put some duct tape or a few layers of masking tape on the gelcoat if you want some protection.) Take out the two screws and the light and wires will slide out of the hole. Good luck.. John Davies Spokane WA

I doubt it, flaps are required for registering a trailer there. If you moved and took your Ollie you would have to fit a set. I think. This is heresay for me. John Davies Spokane WA

Sure does beat rolling the Oliver over on its roof so you could lay on your stomach!😇

I found the reference, it was on Facebook Oliver Trailer Owners. Apologies are needed however, my memory failed me. The Oliver owners panels did not come off, they said they were just “flopping like fish”. My assumption when I read that in May 2021 was that major damage was imminent, so the knobs needed to be secured. I’ve attached the screenshot from Facebook here, and also on your other thread.