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We do not bring but a few clothes that need to hang. We felt like we were losing so much storage area. I built shelves to fill the lower area of the closet. That curve is a bugger to work with. Shelves have a 4" lip in the front to help hold the gear. They are not perfect but work well.

Trailer's have been wearing out tires for ages. They can run in an amazingly wide range of tire pressures successfully. However running above or below that "Sweet Range" and the tires will make you quite angry. So bottom line we are talking about where in the Sweet Range we should run our OE2's. I submit that all the recommendations above are less than optimal and should not blindly be used. So before you get out your flame throwers, ponder the below first. I believe that within the "Sweet Range": A. Tires run at a lower pressure likely have a better ride for Ollie, but they also require greater power to run down the highway. B. Tires run at lower pressure when damaged get to flat quicker than ones at a higher pressure. This results in less opportunity to get pulled over before you start trashing the highway with dismembered rubber tire components. C. Tires run at higher pressures are more prone to puncture from pot holes and road hazards. Especially so when off road. QUESTION: So GJ, how do you run most efficiently, at a pressure to be the most flat resistant mode, while giving Ollie the best ride, and provide my family the best safety margin should you have a puncture? Answer: You can't have it all at the same time. QUESTION: OK GJ, what tire pressure do you run your Ollie at? Answer: Depends. If I am on the interstate or good roads running at highways speeds I use 50 PSI. When I go off road, I air down to 30 PSI for most conditions. If I am transiting soft ground and need maximum sink resistance, then down to 20 PSI. QUESTION: But GJ that's a PITA isn't it? Answer: Nope. I use a TPMS and an IR temperature reader to keep a watch on bearings (With hub caps removed as JD suggested), have a quality calibrated air gauge, and have a 20V Dewalt compressor. Takes me less than 12 minutes to air up/down four Ollie tires between highway and off road mode. Point is that each of us have different trailer weights that can vary depending on our loads at the time. We also travel different paths that our trailers must endure. SO, is it "OK" to say I air my trailer tires to XX PSI? Sure if it is in the sweet spot. It may be OK, but it sure is not optimal for all purposes as your trailer weight varies, as do your road surfaces and speed. Hence, my recommended Ollie tire pressure is.... It depends. GJ

I prefer this brand of snap cap. John Davies Spokane WA

That is primarily an illustration of why a Jeep owner “airs down” when going onto loose terrain. Wider footprint, more grip, less spinning and trail damage, at the expense of slightly lower ground clearance... It also shows why the tires’ rolling resistance goes up when you deflate your Ollie from 80 to 40 psi. It’s interesting to see that the footprint doubles in area between 40 and 15, but the change is a whole lot less dramatic above 40 psi.,. My sweet spot is 42, because I do minimal Interstate cruising, but lots of back highways and less that ideal road surfaces, AKA POTHOLES. Hit a 3 or 4 inch deep pothole at 50 mph with rock hard tires and you will think your trailer exploded. This shows a main arterial route here in Spokane, where we get lots of freeze thaw cycles. It also shows why the center stripe paint gets worn off so fast, all those studded tires on cars avoiding the holes BTW one of the local weather reporters calls the arteries “artillery” routes. It’s a hoot. John Davies Spokane WA

Before we picked up our Oliver, I thought we would use a lot more propane, especially during cold weather camping. In reality we use far less propane even during cold weather camping then I thought. We typically leave it on eco mode and then on comfort when we take showers. No problem turning it off when it's not being used but I think it's a good habit to at least put it in eco mode when you don't need hot water. If you forget at night, you will be reminded when it powers up to heat the water. I usually just get up and turn it to eco mode or off in above freezing weather. Sometimes I forget to turn the propane on before turning on the Truma. If you do this and turn the thermostat to eco or comfort mode the amber light on the thermostat will blink. Also the Truma on/off switch green led will blink. Just turn the thermostat off and turn the Truma switch off. Turn the propane on. To be sure the propane is flowing, check it by lighting the stove. If the stove lights then turn the Truma on/off switch to on, then go back inside and turn the thermostat to eco or comfort mode and the amber light should be constant. You will also see the same thing happen if there is not enough fresh water circulating through the pump. I found that out the first time I used the antifreeze kit. I drained the fresh water tank thinking the antifreeze kit would just keep the water in Truma warm. But I soon learned that the pump runs continuously when in antifreeze mode circulating water through the Truma. Fortunately, the Truma has some built in failsafe's allowing the user to make some mistakes without damaging the unit.

I used a heat gun and plastic razor blades to remove mine and it came off fairly easy. Used Goof Off to remove the adhesive residue.

I installed a 32 LG Smart TV and I wrapped the cords in a WHITE cover - like Oliver should have done 😉 Charlie.

12 Volt! That's great. Where did you find it. I was already contemplating eventually replacing the original TV with a 12V, so bigger is even better. Thanks! Nevermind, I found it: https://www.amazon.com/SYLVOX-Powered-Television-Integrated-Speaker/dp/B0BN2WV3TZ?th=1

Hi everyone! I upgraded to a 32 inch. I installed a Sylvox 32" (made in china, but cant find one made in the US.) Its a smart TV with all the bells and whistles. its also a 1080 dpi, so its sharper then the original Vizio. It is also a 12 volt/DC so I don't need to run the inverter to watch tv. I needed a new adapter plate I purchased from Mount-it! (an MI-782), the same people that made the original mount. (an MI-4211). Just bolted the mounting plate to the old stand and then attached the TV to that. It swings up out of the way just fine, and is much nicer to watch then the old 24". I have a 2021 Elite II with the standard floor plan. Got any questions, Id be happy to help out.

EDIT 10/02/22 This thread is for LE2 tandem axle only! Here is a related poll and thread for the smaller single axle trailer …. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/7376-elite-1-tire-pressures-poll-for-current-model-elite-1-only-with-lt-tires/ Everybody seems to be VERY confused about proper tire pressures. This has been an ongoing issue for as long as I have been on the forum, 7 YEARS. and with the proliferation of new hulls, it appears to be getting even worse. I actually started a service ticket long ago asking Oliver to include a Tire Pressure Load Chart, so we can accurately determine what is the right amount of air to carry the load. The sidewall pressure is the maximum the tire can take, not the correct pressure for the Oliver load! This has not yet happened, here is the one I made for the older tires (I run mine at 42 psi, with an approximate 6000 pound trailer weight.): From the 2022 Owners Manual Here is the Tire Placard from Hull 218 IF YOUR PLACARD IS DIFFERENT FROM THIS PLEASE POST A PICTURE. Please consider contacting Oliver with a new service ticket complaining about the continued lack of guidance. VERBAL recommendations given at DELIVERY vary wildly, are unreliable and should be received with a heavy dose of skepticism. 😳 Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

I don’t remember what size the mounting holes were, but I used some small round pads that I found at my local Ace Hardware store. They aren’t plugs, more like the pads you find on the feet of a table top radio or a clock. They aren’t rubber, maybe some space age material with a glue backing, but they are pretty thin and have stayed up almost 4 years. Amazon has a large selection of plastic or nylon hole plugs if you can find the right size. Mossey

Based on my observations from 2.5 months of travel this Winter across NM, AZ and CA, this is already happening. Greater vacancies in campgrounds, BLM land and fewer rigs on the road than the two prior Seasons. It will be interesting to hear the experiences from those who camp and travel during the Summer months and in other States as to whether this trend is greater than just NM, AZ and CA over this past Winter.

I wonder when that will translate into fewer RVs on the road/in campsites?

We use "Snap Caps."

I cut three inches off the bottom of my Andersen mount, I knew it would be an issue but I kept putting it off, until I nailed the pavement hard at a steep driveway, that shook the frame badly and jarred my fillings. That sort of extension is pretty common on HD trucks, but ideally there should be minimal steel hanging down so low. John Davies Spokane WA

Camping season in Michigan is coming soon and so are the mosquitos. Off spray, keeps mosquitos off! Not. 😂 I’ll stick to Thermacell.

It will pull off with the aid of a heat gun, or hair dryer. Do use a heat gun will caution, very low heat as the hot range is too hot to use for this, I would say the hair dryer on hot would be the better choice for those who are new to the process. The process is going to be slow and you have to heat a small area and pull it slowly, a little practice will be needed to get the hang of it. Might look for a YouTube video on this, it's not going to be fast and slow and easy is what works. As far as installing a new one this is another process, I would also mark the corners of the old decal so you have some refences as to where the new one will go for correct alignment. If your not familiar with installing decals of this size you best get some help for someone who know what they are doing, trust me. trainman

Big Cat, I used plastic razor blades to remove the decal and WD 40 to remove the adhesive residue. It takes sometime and elbow grease. Our trailer is almost four years old and is stored outside in San Diego, CA. You could clearly see where the decal was. The area under the decal was still very shiny. We are reapplying a new decal so, it is not a problem for us. I suspect, with a good buffing the outline would disappear. Andrew

This is probably true for the Stick Built Trailers, or Metal Sticks, but for the fiberglass trailers like, Oliver, Casita, Big Foot, Escape, etc., I wouldn't be too worried about the value going down, just how much are they going to go up. The fiberglass community of campers is a total different group compared to other groups. trainman

I bought 25 white 2" hole plugs in 2019 when I relocated my TV. And I have 23 left, so if you can use 1 or 10 let me know. Mossey

It was missing the ROF tail gate step. So I would’ve needed a rope ladder or a step stool. And as you know "it’s better to be safe than sorry".😉 Mossey

My 2023 F-150 Lariet with just about everything on it except the sunroof stickered at about $75,000 and my out the door was just north of $72,000. Bill

We are towing with 2019 F250 6.7 Lariat , short box 4x4 18" wheels / slightly oversize tire 275/75/18. We have a 2" receiver and use the B+W height adjustable two ball option (2 and 2 5/16). This hitch as served us very well because we also tow utility trailers and need the two ball sizes and height adjustability. The B&W has held up very well. No rust. You do need to service the adjustable pins with a bit of grease so they remain easy to slide out/in for adjusting height. This is especially needed if you spend time off paved roads. The very top position is perfect hight for our Oliver... I believe this position has the top of the ball at 24" with the weight of the trailer on the hitch. We used an Anderson with our 1/2 ton but no need for the weight distribution hitch with the f250. We have towed thousands of miles without the Anderson in all conditions on and off paved roads. Our Anderson has been holding down the shop floor since we purchase the F250. (https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/B-and-W/BWTS10037B.html

Did you include the ROF (Retired Ole Fart) tail gate step, mud flaps, FX4 and HD Trailer package? They likely would bring it closer to the $80K number. 🙂 Just having fun. GJ

Thanks gang! So, that's three for three to use as I'd anticipated. I appreciate the affirmation!

I keep ours off when not in use and then in comfort when hot water is needed. We have antifreeze option and as others have said, it circulates constantly and is a bit noisy while sleeping.

We leave it OFF most of the time while camping and only turn it on (COMFORT mode) a bit before we want to take our showers. Keeps the propane usage to a minimum. I also don't like leaving propane on if we are away from the camper for sightseeing/day trips, so when we leave the camper, the Truma is off and I close the propane tank valve. We typically camp at full hookup campgrounds so the fridge is running on AC. If you leave the Truma in COMFORT mode it uses more propane and it gets annoying at night hearing the Truma cycle on and off frequently to keep hot water at the ready. I should add that we rarely camp in cold weather. We are 3 season campers, spring, summer and fall.

Steve, We leave it Off until we need it and then turn it to Comfort. It heats the water in 15 to 20 seconds so, we don’t see any reason to leave it on. As soon as the need is done, we turn it to Off. If the temperature will be below freezing, we put it on Eco and leave it there until the temperature gets above about 36 degrees. Eco keeps the water temperature At 42 degrees or above. Even at 25 degrees overnight, it only comes on once or twice. I hope this helps you. Andrew

We were coming back to the Great Southwest after a month on the road to Key West, and running Goodyear Marathon/Chinabombs we experienced our first and only (knock on wood) right rear tire failure. We run TPMS, which worked perfectly, but a catastrophic failure happens in a couple dozen micro-secs. On a smooth secondary road in good WX, didn't hear anything - but we felt a slight tug and pulled over to inspect. What was left of the tire looked like a "ghost" - only belts and chunks of tread rubber, totally see-through. Fortunately, the relatively slow speed (25-30mph) may have helped to save the wheel well and we didn't experience any significant secondary damage. Limped over to a Discount Tire a few miles away and bought 5 Michelin RIBs. Thanks to having a spare axle!

I checked DuPont website. From the data sheet on their products…… “Cured foam is combustible and will burn if exposed to temperatures above 240°F (116°C). Do not apply GREAT STUFFTM foam around heaters, high heat lamps or recessed lighting fixtures, radiators, furnaces or fireplaces where it could contact heat conducting surfaces. Do not use GREAT STUFFTM foam inside electrical boxes or panels (applications around the outside of the boxes are permitted).” See attached. 0901b8038095d125.pdf

I had a somewhat similar problem with the bypass valve. Turned out to be degradation of the seal inside the valve. Seems that some of the winterizing or disinfecting solutions can attack the seal material in the valve It’s an easy replacement Link to the old thread discussion below.

I wanted to run my furnace to heat the trailer without using any of my onboard propane. I have this valve setup for quick connect for my propane generator so I simply borrowed it for my proof of concept. Worked like a charm as I thought it would.

Anyone in the forum with an Elite II pulled the trigger on one of these? The non-disposable third row seats is a buzz kill for sure.

Congratulations, your pickup date will be here in no time. I'm also towing my LEII with a 2022 F250 6.7L Tremor. I had Oliver upgrade my bulldog coupler to 2-5/16" went with the B&W Tow & Stow 3" shank and 7" drop. You could get away with less drop for an Oliver but I've never had a problem with that being too much drop. Here is a picture a grabbed this morning with both truck and trailer loaded to give you an idea how this combination sits.

Welcome to the forum. I am not a F250 Tremor owner so I’ll let those members speak up at their opportunity. I will say that I do not know for sure but we may have one member with a 3/4 ton truck that uses an Andersen WD hitch. Most of the members using an Andersen do so because they are required to by the manufacturer in order to not exceed their tongue weight limitations. It all depends on your Tow Vehicle’s limitations and each vehicle may be different. And if you haven’t heard, there will be an Oliver Travel Trailer Owners rally at Lake Guntersville State Park in Alabama May 17-21. If you are still in the area and have time to visit, please do so. The campground may or may not be full at this time, but nearby State Parks may have availability. Mossey

The reason I asked is that cushion fabric is often treated, or at least more impervious/tightly woven than mattress fabric. If we went to true mattresses, I'd likely add hypervent, a froli system, or something like it.

Tom and I watched this video last night (we have been following KYD for a few years now) and it was excellent. Bringing Olive home, we were mostly towing 60-65 mph on the highway, but every once in a while we would see that we were close to 70 mph because the Elite II tracked so well, you couldn't feel it back there. Going through the Poconos, I captured a nice sunset in the tow mirror of our Tundra, which also confirmed that Olive was indeed behind us. 😀

Hi there, I actually replaced mine the first week of ownership last month. I replaced with a Samsung QN32Q60AAFXZA 32 inch. It just fits, you may need to tinker with the vesa mount screws a bit, I had to trim two screws from my collection of misc screws in my garage to get it to work, the screws from the Visio TV to the mount will not fit right. From there you will need an hdmi extension cable, I found one on Amazon that was 6inches and it did the trick. You will need to adjust the mount bracket slightly lower and then tighten the screw locks on the bar as the last step so that the tv will not hit the shade but clear the upper cabinet. Took about 45 mins to do just to get the right screw fit.

I finally got a response to my ticket from 10/20/22 yesterday. The request for a replacement decal was denied with a polite note explaining that the tire pressure on the trailer at time of production met the production tire specifications. They recommend I consult OEM tire manufacturers specifications for the loaded trailer weight. Which is exactly what many of us have already done, and the reason I have been running 50 psi since Delivery Day. The ticket was closed.

I was able to get a 34" installed in mine, but had to also install a track system for the mount to make it work. Thought I responded here, but somehow I clicked on the link in bhncb's response and posted on that thread instead... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4188-television/?do=findComment&comment=85831&_rid=6801

I posted about my experience with upgrading to a 28" TV in the thread linked below. Take a look at the pictures and my description of the issues I encountered. Your biggest concern is going to be the overall height dimension of the 32" you're considering. You'll. have to determine if the case will interfere with the overhead cabinet when it's down in the viewing position., and whether there is enough clearance between the window shade when it's folded up. My sense is that any 32" will be too big. There is some adjustment of the mount but it trades one direction for the other. Relocating the mount any appreciable amount would be a major operation. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4188-television/#comment-41664

I will air down to about 35 psi on the trailer if it is really nasty potholed rutted for a long distance. But folks need to be aware you have to air back up immediately when the speeds get back up to normal. Sometimes it may be hard to find a trailer sized pullout when you get back to a highway…. Keep that in mind too. John Davies Spokane WA

Keep in mind that new Land Cruisers are no more in the USA, at least for several years. That isn’t really the same as a brand new model Sequoia and unethical dealer price gouging. If you wait a year for a nice low miles used LC200 it will probably be even more costly. The Sequoia will eventually be “affordable”. I use that term loosely. https://www.motorbiscuit.com/why-toyota-land-cruiser-discontinued/ I bought mine used in 2018 with 90k miles for $42,000 (about half the MSRP). I do not plan to get rid of it unless it burns up, is totalled or is stolen. It no longer looks brand new, but it drives like one, with no squeaks or rattles, even with almost 160,000 miles. John Davies Spokane WA

Looking at used Land Cruiser's right now and most of them that I'm interested in are selling over original sticker.

Yep, but pretty common with Toyotas these days. I got my 2021 Land Cruiser $9000 under sticker. Three months later, they were selling ( not asking) for $30,000 over sticker, until every last one in the US was gone. Crazy time! Which is why used cars are going for more than they cost when new.

We will be dry camping at over 10,000 feet the July 4 weekend. I expect temps in the 30s at night. We’ve camped at 9,000 feet with no issues. Hopefully our furnace will light! If not, I will take off my mittens and update this post! Mike

Looks like a great vehicle as most Toyota products are, I don't see my wife giving up her new Lexus, but it is also a Toyota product. I personally never cared for a large SUV for towing, including Suburban, Tahoe, Excursion, Sequoia, etc., but now the new Waggoner has also interred in the picture. All probably good choices for towing the Oliver, but the Crew Cab pickup will always be my choice, just much more versatile for me.

I was confused in a big way about the rear suspension in the Tundra and the Sequoia. For some reason I thought it was IRS, like the previous model Sequoia. It is NOT, it is a multi-link solid rear axle. Is the ALL NEW 2023 Toyota Sequoia A Worthy Land Cruiser Replacement? It is the same setup as the Tundra, which looks like this. I am really glad about that, but I am not sure why I thought it was independent in back. 😳 Senior brain fart, I guess. John Davies Spokane WA

Oh my. You just turned my head 720 degrees! Have you seen any tech spec's out on it? Glad they went back to the Tundra frame and power train like the 2005 generator was. BTW, after about 260,000 miles, 12 years of crawling up mountains heavily loaded with hang gliders and crew, and then both of my sons for another couples of years each, we sold the family 2005 Sequoia. Driven hard, fast and long, but maintained it was hyper reliable, and my most favorite tow and heavy off road vehicle for hauling. Drats... you got me thinking again!