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Will do, I really like the idea about the rounded corners with the router bit. I started this yesterday not really expecting it would amount to any significant change. Now that it seems to be a possible solution I will probably rework what I did, but I wanted to get some other ideas before I start. So thank you very much for the tips. I thought closing all cracks and crevices with the tape should help. The varying thickness of the foam board was to come straight down from the sides of the fan opening.4 points
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Yep - After spending several hours making my own shower mat during the first winter I owned my Ollie I finally got the chance to actually take it out to the storage yard and see how it fit in the shower. It looked great, the fit was perfect (including the curve of the shower pan) and I was in total awe of my abilities to actually create such a thing of beauty with only my original cardboard template as a guide. Until ------ I decided to step into the shower and quickly realized I was too tall (I'm right at 6 foot) with the beautiful shower mat in place!😒 So, from that point on I simply use a "shower rug" similar to THIS ONE. Bill3 points
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Spoiler alert: Only one of them was manufactured during this decade. Only one was manufactured during the previous decade. The other eight were all manufactured during the first decade of this millennium. 2006 Dodge Ram 2500/3500 – Reliability Score: 55/100 2001 Toyota Tundra - Reliability Score: 52/100 2008 Chevrolet Colorado/GMC Canyon - Reliability Score: 47/100 2005 Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra - Reliability Score: 40/100 2004 Ford F-150 - Reliability Score: 20/100 2003 Mazda B-Series - Reliability Score: 19/100 2013 Ram 1500 - Reliability Score: 15/100 2020 Jeep Gladiator - Reliability Score: 15/100 2008 Ford F-250/F-350 - Reliability Score: 6/100 2004 Nissan Titan – Reliability Score: 1/5 Customer Satisfaction3 points
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Wonder if you could ride inside it? Wife took the truck into town and you want something from the camp store? No problem! Just drive your trailer down to the store! LOL! I'd do it just for the reactions. Drive it down your row of campsites and watch the look on your neighbors' faces as the random trailer rolls past. Probably best that I don't buy one......3 points
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Rivernerd, you are right. Very sorry about your brother Larry. We have the same set-up that you have. I have always run the fridge on DC while traveling. Like you my SOC hasn't gone down much. Two days of travel with a boondocking stop brought me down to 76%. Not bad. If I ever ran it on propane while traveling, I would turn off the propane while fueling. John2 points
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At 6'2" I hit my head regularly on the fan. Raising the level of the shower pan even a fraction is a no go for us.2 points
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Very cool. FYI moving air doesn’t like squared corners at all. At the downstream side especially you get low pressure and turbulence, which decreases the flow rate and makes extra noise. Try putting nice smooth curves wherever possible, for example use a 1” or larger router bit, followed by hand sanding. Tape all seams and openings. Any reduction in area in a duct will reduce the airflow cfm, so it is important to have the shape be as aerodynamic as possible. John Davies Spokane WA2 points
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Hmmm....I will be looking into this for sure! Thanks for the info. 👍2 points
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We've got one that looks like teak wood but is actually synthetic wood. It's the same height/thickness as the teak wood option - so if you're more than 73 inches your head hits the fan... (had to double check my spelling on that phrase). Its nice to have a clean surface to shower on, but bumping your head is a concern for some... Just say'n.2 points
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Totally concur with Steve's assessment. But it was an interesting article anyway. It would be good to have one written about the 10 best TV's in the past 5 years, IMO.2 points
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We have just returned from our month long trip out West and was beginning to put together a list of what I wanted to order to replace our Dometic Penguin II A/C with the Dometic Freshjet (see following article:) I pulled down the interior plastic air distribution panel to get a picture of the exact model number and verify that mine could be replaced before I put together a list to order. My son-in-law and I were going to do it. What I discovered was some flexible ducting that the jetstream of air was being routed through that had to be vibrating, rattling, creating all sorts of air disturbance. So I decided before ordering maybe it would be worth it to try and see if I could do anything to make a difference. The worst I could do would be to break something, then I would have another excuse to order the Freshjet. Anyway, I left the tubing in place and lined it with styrofoam blocks I cut out on my table saw and band saw (they work so much better than trying to cut with a box knife). My goal was to seal any cracks and make the path for the air to be as straight and clear as possible to prevent air turbulence. I included pictures of before and after below. So the results are not as great as what I expect you would get from the Freshjet, Houghton, or Truma, but I was surprised what a difference it made. Now I am at least going to wait another year and see how this works out. I forgot to get a picture of my phone of the sound before, but it was averaging between 74&75 dB. Afterwards under the same conditions (vent openings the same, phone in same location and orientation, and no background noise) the sound level had dropped to 67 dB which you could easily tell an audible difference. I am not sure how my phone app would compare to a real dB meter, but I suspect the 7 dB drop is not that far off. The other thing that was eliminated was the vibration the A/C seemed to have. If you have questions, feel free to ask, and if you have other suggestions, please do so. I am not a sound engineer and I started this just playing around so I am very open to other suggestions.1 point
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Had the same problem. Seems that tree branch ate my Furrion rear camera antenna. Worth a glance. GJ1 point
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I remember telling someone my sad story about shower mats (see post above) and they suggested that I shower while sitting on the toilet. Somehow that suggestion struck me as being somewhere between taking a bath and being so sick that I could not stand. But, I still tried it out. Yep - somewhere between ......😁 Bill1 point
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We got this one last year, soon after placing the order for our Oliver. I see that Foy now makes a similar version in addition to his previous square opening model. https://www.teakworks4u.com/collections/teak-mats-for-airstream/products/oliver-travel-trailer-mat (photo from web site) You can sometimes find discount coupons. I looked at our cost including shipping, and it was less than the current list price. We actually take ours out while showering. It is easier to squeegee the shower with it not there. Plus, when we put it back in after a shower, the floor is dry instead of standing on wet fiberglass. And, having had a teak deck on the back of a boat, I know how nasty the bottom side can be unless frequently cleaned. With our mat always dry, it never needs maintenance.1 point
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Thanks to all who contributed. I read and learned from each post. I have some minor warranty work to do at the dealer next week. I think I will have them do the spray-in bed liner then. We will wait on the cover until we've had a chance to study a bit more.1 point
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Well, I tend to over-think and over-engineer everything, drives my wife nuts! Not that “serious”, but if I told someone my motto was “I strive for perfection to achieve satisfaction”, maybe they would understand! As for testing, I can only do so much in the driveway; need to travel and camp to see how all performs, or is that just an excuse to pack up and get away? This would be a ‘one trip wonder’ to see if I’m ‘there yet’. More to come, hopefully sooner than later.1 point
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Ditto. There are other threads on tonneau covers. Here's one example. I restricted the cover to one I could unlock and open from the outside. My F250 tailgate does not have a blade key slot, only an electric lock. If that fails while camping and the tailgate has to be open to unlock the tonneau, you could be locked out of your bed.1 point
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Not only are lithiums a perfect match for solar - they're also a perfect match for a DC/DC charger... Your TV's alternator generates a goodly amount of current (probably north of 180Amps) which cannot make it to the lithium bank via the standard 7-pin connection. The DC/DC charger allows the lithiums to charge with that current produced by your TV while traveling in addition to the solar (if you're pulling during sunny times of the day).1 point
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Sounds like a serious plan with a lot of mobile site testing needed.1 point
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I may have some hole plugs that will fit the screw/bolt mounting holes from the original Lagun base plate if you haven’t already done that. Let me know the size you need and I’ll see what I have left. Mossey1 point
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USB-C is the way to go. Apple has finally switched to USB-C for its new iPhone 15 lineup. https://www.cnet.com/videos/how-apples-switch-to-usb-c-will-change-the-iphone/1 point
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Note that there is now a newer display available. I got it in a bundle with six sensors. Key for me is that it charges using USB-C, which is what I'm trying to convert all my stuff to. No more USB-A, micro-USB, mini-USB, Lightning, etc. https://technorv.com/products/tst-770-touch-screen-color-monitor1 point
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I too have the BedRug with bottom, sides and tailgate coverage in my 2012 short bed TV, as well as an A.R.E. cap lined with the same carpet material. As some mentioned, easy on the knees, as well as an insulating factor and sound reduction. 11 years and counting with little signs of wear or staining. I have furniture carpet slides on the bottom of a large frig/freezer that work great in handling it. Although a cap will add significant weight, it provides protection and security, as well as added space, especially for bikes and even a loft. I also installed a 200W solar array atop the cap.1 point
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You do know that your question(s) just might start a "storm" of comments here on the Forum? Yes, I do travel with propane on. In order to amplify the safety measures that are already built into these tanks, I installed "GasStop" propane shutoff valves (like THESE). However, I should note that if I had the battery bank that you do - I have 4 six volt lead acid batteries - I just might run the fridge on d/c while towing. No, I do not turn off my propane while getting fuel. However, my filler port on my F-150 is on the opposite of the rig versus where the fridge is located. Hopefully, I'm smart enough to not drive into a "pool" of fuel that is laying on the ground and/or move if I can smell a strong odor of fuel. Bill1 point
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I have much the same situation - if I attach my Oliver while still in the driveway the nose of the Ollie is way too high. Therefore, a couple of days before departing on a trip I will turn on the fridge (not hooked to the TV of course) and let it get cold. This way I can monitor the fridge and have time to correct a problem should one develop. On the day of departure I will turn the fridge off, hook the Ollie to my TV and depart. As soon as I'm on fairly level ground I'll stop, check the rig over and turn on the fridge. This process only takes a couple of minutes. Bill1 point
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This topic has been discussed, and several owners have made this modification successfully. I did a quick search and came across this link. I suggest you consult with Service to ask if and where the wires are placed on your specific model. Oliver has made changes in their process over time. DIY Solar Install1 point
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When we ordered last August, not getting solar was not an option with lithium. They came as a package. As noted previously, changing to lithium/solar later is a very expensive proposition. Much more than getting it from the get go. Almost all of the wiring needs to be replaced with the heavier wire that lithium needs, along with the different controllers, and other components. I'm probably misremembering, but I thought someone checked with Oliver, and it was going to be about $10k more than having it done when built. For us, the choice to add the Platinum Pro package was the most expensive option, and the easiest to swallow. On some of your other questions, here's my response as first time trailer owners (we had a square-back teardrop prior, so basically dry tent camping.) Auto Drain: We opted not to get this for two reasons. Keeping things simple (it relies on an electrical switch and a motor), but more importantly, it is out of sight, so something you might forget. With the manual handle, when closing up the trailer, I always fold the steps and look inside to make sure the handle is pressed in. Doing those routinely together ensures I'll never forget (yea, right...) And if like me, you didn't pay attention during the walkthrough, simply remember Drive-In, CampOut. Handle is in when driving, and out while camping (or dumping) We opted not to get the electric door lock. Just something else to go wrong. The key is smaller than the fob when carrying in a pocket. The backup camera was the last thing we decided on when ordering. (Actually, much later, because you can change your order up to the point where you pay off the first 50%) I had considered adding my own, but having the wiring and witch already in place saved a lot of headaches. I expected to only use it while backing into a site, but in actuality, I never do. I use it a *lot* on the highway when watching traffic behind me, and especially when changing lanes. Upgraded mattresses: When we ordered was when Oliver was changing from KTT to whoever makes the current mattresses. When visiting other owners with the KTT mattress, we loved the firmness, and had decided to go that route. When we got to the factory for our tour and to order, they'd switched vendors. Some people love them, but we found them much too soft and flimsy, almost like a cheap motel mattress. So we ordered without the upgrade option, and then ordered a pair of Oliver specific mattresses direct from KTT. Shipped to our home, they were almost the same cost as the Oliver upgrade. A few other owners have done the same. Here's what we ordered: - Oliver Legacy Elite II Twin Bed - Standard Mattresses (KTT mattresses after receipt) - Standard Fabric - Midnight - Hypervent - Omnidirectional Antenna (local weather etc. if we don't have cell service) - Street Side Awning - Frosted Cabinet Doors - Convection Microwave - 20 Gallon Propane (to keep tongue weight down) - Front/Rear Propane Quick-Connects - Standard Toilet (with possible AirHead composting replacement) - Full Truma Package AC, Furnace, Water Heater and Antifreeze kit - Lithium Platinum Package - Backup Camera - Rear Bumper Receiver (converted to 2" after receipt) - Anderson Hitch - Aluminum Storage Basket - Basement Door - No Graphics Over six months after our pickup date and 44 nights of use, there's nothing we'd have changed.1 point
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I expect yours is an absorption fridge. The 2023s come with compressor fridges. This is another reason to consider solar and lithium: a compressor fridge requires a fair amount of power, and very few RVers get along without a fridge. Also, many campgrounds limit the hours you can use a generator. If you plan to rely on a generator, I hope we don't end up camping next to you! (with all due respect) Yes, the lithium upgrade is pricey. But, unless used nearly full time, Lithionics LiFePO4 batteries should last at least 10 years, likely more like 15. Wet cell or AGM batteries must be replaced every 3-5 years regardless of use. Over time, the marginal cost differential between lithiums and lead/acids is not that great.1 point
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We didn't get the electric door lock on our 2022 Elite II, because some folks on this forum noted issues with them. One poster got locked in the trailer when it malfunctioned and had to crawl out the rear window! We have not regretted saving $$$$ by going with the standard key lock. We keep the key in the center console of our truck.1 point
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That's what I've found on two occasions with our Platinum Pro package. The first time I ran the AC exactly two hours, and the batteries were at 81% after. This was in May, and using solar only, it took 48 hours to recover. This was using the factory 400W panels without my additional 200W portable panel. In August I ran the AC for about six hours (untimed) and the batteries were at I think 38% after. I was at an electric site a couple days later, so didn't check to see how long the solar would take to recover. So, AC uses about 10% per hour of running time with the Platinum Pro package, and takes about 24 hours per hour of running time to recover using 400W solar only.1 point
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All Olivers come standard with a surge protector. And all Olivers use a 30 amp electrical connection - not 15/20 amp and not 50 amp. Of course, you do know that if you have a 30 amp connection to shore power you can still use a lower amperage connection. However, you can not run all the things in your Oliver (i.e. microwave and air conditioner) at the same time if you are on the lower amperage supply. With regards to how long a bottle of propane will last (particularly running the air) - that depends. How hot is it outside, how cool do you want it inside? what other things are you using propane for - cooking, hot water, fridge? Perhaps what you are really asking is, "in typical usage, how long does a 20 pound tank last?"?. Or, should I really get the 20 lb tanks or the 30 pound tanks? I can run my fridge on one 20 pound tank for about 6 to 7 weeks. But, during this time I'm usually camped at altitude where the average temps are cooler and I usually camp solo, so, there isn't a bunch of opening and closing the fridge. I also use a solar shower for heating shower water except for those times when its cloudy and I use a Mr. Heater propane heater for taking the chill off those frosty mornings (this saves both propane and electricity - don't run the furnace blower). While I agree with the two comments above relative to learning - don't be discouraged! We all had to start this journey someplace and most of us are still learning. Bill edit addition: I forgot to mention the 20 versus 30 lb tanks. Obviously if you get the 30's then you will not have to get them refilled as often and you have 33% more with you. This 33% really matters if you plan to do a bunch of winter camping in cold weather. However, the downside of the 30lb tanks is that they MUST be refilled at a business that does this sort of thing. With the 20lb tanks you can "swap" them for other tanks at most grocery stores, gas stations, hardware stores, Lowes, Home depot OR you can get them refilled just like you do with the 30's. In addition, the 20's are lighter than the 30's. It should be noted that when you "swap" the 20's, they are generally not filled to the same capacity (i.e. they are not really full) and the cost per gallon or pound of propane is generally more expensive than it would be at a refill facility. But, if you are in an area that simply doesn't have a refill facility, there isn't really much you can do with that empty 30 pound tank.1 point
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You still need to do a LOT of research before you start checking options in the order form. This is a good start: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6629-how-to-find-happiness-with-lifepo4-lithium-ion-batteries-solacity-article/ I **** STRONGLY ***** recommend that you delay your order and rent a small travel trailer for a few weeks. You will learn more in a single day than you will thru months of videos. You may even decide that you do not like the whole concept, or that you are uncomfortable with towing. You might prefer a Class B or even a truck camper, neither of which will work with your new truck. The basic rule is to buy the camper first, then the truck that works best for it! Doing it the other way causes lots of heartache. And it is so very common. There have been several excited Oliver newbies that discovered that they just could not adapt to the lifestyle and the many technical challenges, and they sold their trailers shortly afterwards. This is very preventable. Take it very slowly and be sure you know enough to make educated decisions. John Davies Spokane WA1 point
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We’ve been traveling from south Texas to Tennessee and arrived in the Memphis area this afternoon. We’re at a military campground on Midsouth Naval Base just north of Memphis. It’s small, but somehow there’s an Oliver parked right next to us. The spot we are in was occupied by another Oliver last night. Small world. Our neighbors just picked up their trailer yesterday, Mike and Barb - Hull 1428.1 point
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Hello Everyone, When we first brought Ollie home I had a brand new, "standard sized" cover waiting for him. Having been through this before with a Casita I knew the benefits of covering a fiberglass unit in the Southwest. I thought I had it measured properly, but, I guess, I did not and needed to have it altered to fit. I went through three of the less expensive covers quickly when we had the Casita and decided to invest in a more expensive product. We chose a Sunbrella fabric which was advertised as a five year product. Sadly, it has only lasted two years and it's so brittle on top that it tears easily if you're not extremely careful taking it off. I just finished repairing seven tears today. The other issue is it's weight getting it on and off the trailer. I'm curious if anyone has found a cover that fits Ollie straight "out of the box". I have not. The next option is having a custom one made for the unit, which costs over a thousand dollars (using a lighter weight, "more durable (?)" fabric). I did try to return it when I found it too big, but, because of a bit of tire "scuffing" on the cover, they would not accept the return. So, I had it altered to fit by a local shop that does awnings, sails and covers. Those folks did a great job. Tomorrow I begin my "mission" of trying to get this warranty issue resolved with the manufacturer. However, seeing as how I had to alter it's size in order to have it fit the trailer, that could be an issue for them to refute the warranty; even though we're speaking of the fabric only. We'll find out. But, I still need a cover. Yes, I understand, "you get what you pay for" and that's fine. Does anyone have any suggestions about who and what fabric? Back in 2015, when I told the factory that I was going to cover Ollie, they were very interested in what I found out. Sadly, it has not worked out too well. I'm hoping that by now, with more units on the road, that someone knows more than I do; not too hard to do. Maybe with enough people interested in purchasing covers, we could get a pattern made and do a group purchase? Maybe Oliver could have that as an option accessory? If you do not have covered storage, a barn, a structure, etc., what does everyone else use to cover their trailers? Looking to cover up, Bob1 point
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The two of you like to live dangerously! A reminder that absorption fridges use an open flame to heat the refrigerant when in propane mode. The potentially catastrophic consequences of an open flame parked anywhere near a gas pump are enough to persuade me to use DC mode when on the road. John, as I recall you have solar panels and a 390 Ah Lithionics battery bank. For what it 's worth, we always use DC mode when on the road, with the solar turned on. Each time, when we arrive at camp, we switch to propane if boondocking, or to AC if we have hookups. I then check battery State of Charge to determine how much the fridge in DC mode has drawn down our 390 Ah Lithionics battery bank, given the offset from the solar panels. I have yet to find the SOC below 90% when we arrive at camp. That 10% deficit is quickly replenished by the solar panels after a few daylight hours when boondocking. My brother died 6 years ago after he ignited a slash pile doused with gasoline. My son quips that "Uncle Larry went down in flames...."0 points
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Absolutely correct - just giving examples of propane usage. Yes, these are the "averages" that I've read about also. However, my current lead acid batteries are still running strong going into their 8th year! Bill0 points
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