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Good Sam. However, in the very year after the AAA problem mentioned above - I was just north of the Colorado State line in Wyoming and I had another wheel issue where I could have used some help. Unfortunately, there was not cell signal such that I could test my "new" Good Sam coverage. Again this was prior to my purchase of my Oliver. The following year I got my Ollie and have not had a situation where I needed roadside assistance since. Bill

Unfortunately, "par for the course" for most insurance companies. I am a retired litigation attorney. 35 years representing insurance companies taught me to buy insurance for major risks (like home and auto), because such a loss could be devastating. But I avoid insuring minor risks, the consequences of which won't kill the budget (like roadside assistance, car repairs, extended warranties, etc.) Insurance claims managers are repeatedly schooled to "Just Say No" to claims if at all possible. When it comes to small claims (like a roadside assistance tow, for example), their mantra is "JUST SAY NO." They get downgraded or fired for allowing claims. They get promoted for saving $$$ at the expense of wasting your time (like calling a cheaper tow company far away from where you broke down, and letting you wait for hours). If I ever need help while on the road, I find the closest shop or tow service and pay "the freight." In the long run, it is cheaper, and less exasperating, than roadside assistance insurance. Even major loss insurance is highly profitable for the carriers. How do you think insurance companies can afford those expensive TV ads (think Allstate and State Farm)?

For what it's worth, the RV Miles camping news YouTube channel is reporting that Camping World, the owner of Good Sam, might be in the process of selling off the Good Sam brand. That may or may not be a good thing if true. I'm a 54 year member of AAA, getting my original coverage from my grandparents for my 16th birthday. Over time, I added Deb to the account when we got married, bumped up to the second tier when we got the MG (and used it twice...), added, then removed, driving age kids, and a few year ago added the RV/Motorcycle coverage. The latter for my herd of motor scooters more than for my tiny 5X8 Hiker trailer. Somewhere I have a photo of a 90cc Vespa (not mine) on a big rollback tow truck. 😂 Over the years, I've read/heard good and bad reports about AAA's RV coverage. Most frequently, they involved leaving a trailer behind when getting a truck towed, or vise versa. In December I called AAA Central (which includes Ohio) to find the answer, and was told that different regions have different rules and coverage. Some will send two trucks and tow both vehicles, some only the disabled vehicle. At that point, I called CoachNet, which now covers towed RVs as well as motor coaches, and posed the same question. They told me that they would send two trucks if the tow vehicle was disabled, never leaving a trailer behind. Several questions later, and I signed up for CoachNet before leaving for Florida in January. I'll remove RV/motorcycle coverage from AAA at the next renewal, and seriously consider cancelling completely, since CoachNet covers all vehicles driven or owned by the policy holder and/or spouse. They just won't cover my MG or scooters. But it's hard to break a 54 year habit.

Bill, Here are a few very concerning open source reviews of Good Sam RSA coverage. As one Good Sam’s coverage owner said. “It sounds great when you sign up, but in the real world not so much”. Hopefully you will never have this type of experience for the cash laid out for RSA from Good Sam’s. I considered GS RSA until I read several reviews. I realize that GS is relying and at the mercy of contract towing and mobile Rv techs. Sadly it appears GS is falling short of customer expectations in many ways. I hope you never need to use GS RSA and if you do your experience is better than the below reviews. https://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/good-sam-roadside-assistance.html https://www.bbb.org/us/co/englewood/profile/roadside-assistance/good-sam-enterprises-llc-1296-75000910/complaints https://www.irv2.com/forums/f59/good-sam-roadside-assistance-597037.html

Mark, the one major thing that is the most critical with AGM batteries is that you never allow them to go below 12.2. All it takes is one time to damage or ruin them. Solar is a big help, and you should get A battery charging via the truck alternator when driving. It would also be good to have a generator, if you are boondocking. I got 5 years out of my AGM's on my Truck Camper and did things by the book. When I stored the truck camper it was covered and the battery cut-off turned off. There are parasitic draws, so I eliminated that. Every 6 weeks I took a portable solar panel over and plugged it in. 6 weeks later, batteries were at 12.6. If boondocking in cold weather and you let your batteries get too low, your furnace will shut down. AGM's aren't forgiving, so never let them get below 50%. I used 12.3 as my safety bottom line. Hope this helps.

One other item that's easy to implement. Have a local engraver make a VIN plate from stainless or brass with your trailer VIN engraved on it. Install it with a couple pop rivets on the inside of the frame rail under the trailer right below where the VIN sticker is applied by the factory. If a thief peals the VIN sticker off, you still have solid identification you can us on a police report. This was recommended to me when I had my camper inspected by Indiana State Police for title transfer purposes when we brought it home. If you have a set of number stamps, you could stamp the number into the frame in that location yourself. Very inconspicuous to say the least.

Layer 8: ... a well placed 220gr .45ACP round where it belongs

Yep - Notice I never said that they (Good Sam) are any good - I've not had to use them (yet). All I did was change my policy to them when AAA didn't treat me so well. I'm guessing that "horror" stories can be related to just about any of these services. These stories can be magnified due to the stress associated with the events that lead up to having the need for the service in the first place too. My personal bottom line is that I believe that in today's world I'm better off with some kind of coverage versus not having any at all. Basically all of these services (as far as I can tell) are pretty much organized upon the same basic business model. If that is actually the case then the only thing(s) to differentiate them from one another is price and the quality of the folks that answer the phone when there is a problem. Hopefully none of us ever need this insurance. Bill

I was a member of Good Sam, but didn't have the travel coverage. I dropped my membership, because I got tired of having their travel coverage slammed down my throat to the tune of emails to join every 2-3 days. The shopping discounts stopped being worth it. The reviews turned me off. I have been a long time AAA member so we shall see.

When we moved from the Willamette Valley to Northeast Oregon, I stopped watching a lot of television, so to fill in a bit, I found some interesting channels on YouTube. Now I can waste time and learn new old skills in the process. One of those channels is Dave Engel’s Coach Shop, where he restores and builds old coaches and wagons. Here’s the start of a Sheep Herders Wagon restoration , and the completion of some old logging wheels.

I'm on year 7 with our DEKA/east penn AGM 12v batteries. Ryan at Blue Sky gave us the correct setting for our controller. I think the solar panels actually help with the longevity of the batteries. I'm not sure why anyone would advise you to turn off the solar. I try to not run mine below 70 per cent, keeping that last twenty as a safety net. Definitely keep them above 50 per cent. Even our flooded lead acid 6v batteries on the boat have managed over 7 years, with six+ years of solar, even after flattening one battery bank of 6 when we lost our alternator on a 300 mile race. (We added the solar after that incident. We were very lucky to be able to bring them back to life, as they were only a month old then, and not cheap. )

Is this the rebranded FMCA? No, different company. Now owned by Blue Compass. We've had to use them several times and they were good.

I did the AAA "Plus RV" thing for several years - UNTIL... There I was happily driving east on I70 just about 2 miles east of beautiful Hays, KS when I almost lost the passenger side wheel on my RV. No problem - I'll just call AAA he said to himself. After about 5 minutes on the phone with AAA they informed me that they didn't have anyone in Hays that could help me, but, they would reimburse me (up to the limits of my coverage) once I got help. WHAT? Here I am stranded on the side of a major interstate highway basically on top of reasonable sized town and you can't help me? Thankfully just about the time I had to disconnect from the very helpful AAA personnel, a Kansas State Trooper arrived. He had the number of a towing service with him and 15 minutes later they towed me all of 5 miles to their service garage. I still get emails and snail mail from AAA asking me to renew my roadside assistance with them. Can't say that I ever have given THAT another thought. Bill p.s. this was prior to my Oliver days

We carry AAA Hoosier Motor Club "Plus RV". We have been very lucky, knock on wood, and never had to use either USAA (when we had that coverage) or now. I'm sure it will catch up with me down the road.

@MAX Burner Thanks for your reply! 👍🏻👍🏻 I just called USAA about RSA on our car and two trucks and also spoke to Progressive about our RSA coverage for our Oliver. I was informed by both providers that a claim for Roadside Assistance would not cause our premiums to increase for the type of policies we have. USAA also said we would not loose our long standing policy discounts. cheers!

You bet Dave! Just passing it forward. 😊

Thank you for this useful info, Patriot. I think I'll be seeking out a different provider for this coverage.

For what its worth - in order to find the thread - All I did was type the word "stolen" in the search bar. This was one of the first threads to appear. Bill

That would be interesting to know the back story, @topgun2... In the decades we've been camping, the only theft we've experienced was perpetrated by bears and, believe it or not, monkeys - that wasn't a funny story, however!

Additionally, the handle is the same on the outside as the inside. No problems with the “foot slicer” as mentioned…unless you are a member of the Monte Python “Ministry of Silly Walks”

The mirror appears to be attached with an adhesive, no clips, as used for the mirror inside the head. We’ve have had no issues with the handle catching on anything. It does take a firm push to engage the latch. It works best if you press the door rather than the handle. Best Mark

I have also just let the solar panels maintain the Lifelines and on the average they show about 13.8-13.6 Volts. Going strong after 6.5 years now.

We've used Coach-Net with good results as well.

Perhaps consider a separate roadside assistance policy. I believe the Family Motor Coach Association provides coverage to all types of RVs now. Good Sam is another.

Great post, @dewdev! Thanks for sharing - we've got this mod listed on our spreadsheet as a priority... I'll be calling Ryder this morning! Thanks again!

Today I added two 4" vents in the closet (one low and one high) in the same locations that OTT is installing in the newer Olivers. Additionally, I added a 3" return air vent in the bathroom that vents into the underside of the forward dinette seat like OTT is now installing. I also added one 4" return air vent like Rivernerd recommended on the hall side of the forward dinette seat. I will be testing the heating system with these new vents later in the early spring, The real reason that I am adding to the post is becasue I wanted to share where I purchased these vents. I looked on Amazon for 4" vents, like some have suggested, to get a price. I then called OTT and got a price for their vents. The price that OTT is charging is substanitally less than Amazon's price. I purchased from OTT 3-4" vents and 1-3" vent for about the same cost as Amazon was charging for one 4" vent. IMO, for those with older Oliver's, that want to added return air vents, I recommend to purchase them from OTT and save youself some money. Plus my new vents now match what OTT is now installing.

Episode 7:

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I am a very light sleeper and I have another fire extinguisher next to the bed. However, I was in emergency services for over four years, so I'm not too macho to jump out that window screaming like a little girl if needed.

In my circumstance the current version of RV trackers are lacking. My rig is in a dark barn on top of an Oklahoma mountain for 8 or 9 months a year. None of the top trackers have that kind of battery life. As you suggested fixed camera systems are likely the best option in my case. Something simple as a ring camera facing Ollie is the best option I can think of for my circumstances. Regardless, here is a fairly recent summary of the top three RV trackers that may be of interest for those that have access to their RV on a more frequent basis: https://campersandcampfires.com/rv-gps-tracker/ GJ

I really like the idea. But for the topic of this thread, I would consider that the thieves will be all over the front of the trailer, and could see the large handle. I would mount near the back bumper. They would not likely see it an it would be a great safety device for parking on grades as well. GJ

Any theft deterrent that we can employ, short of standing outside our Ollie's with a shot gun, can be defeated. As in the military, the best defense has multiple layers to slow down or degrade the attacker. I also submit that our security devices should minimize storage and weight for travel. Here are my suggested layers of defense: Layer 1. For long term (Not Occupied), I start my security prep by lowering the trailer tongue. Simple. Free. No added weight. Layer 2: For this layer I use two items suggested by John D years ago: Unlike the Proven Ind. cover, they easily fit into a kitchen drawer and weigh a lot less than ten pounds. They are a deterrent that some bad guys will walk away. I cover them with large coffee can or a bucket for both weather protection, and also so that passers by can't see what I have in store for them. Most do not bring the power tools required to defeat these devices. For those really serious thieves that do have the power tools please proceed to Layer 6. For those less prepared thieves that do not have the power tools, please proceed to Layer 3. Layer 3. After they get through chewing their way through Layer 2, they then will likely try to dead lift our 640 pound tongue weight. However their sore backs quickly veto that approach. They have a eureka moment when they see the front jack. They eagerly remove the cover and activate the jack to raise the bulldog onto their hitch. But the jack does not work because I removed the fuse. They cut the wires and splice them around the fuse. But drats that does not work either because my DC Master Switch is in the OFF position. So sorry guys. More time burned. Layer 4: Now they are really getting nervous as their 60 seconds and gone plan is out the window. But determined they are and they fetch their vehicle scissors jack that is buried in their TV. But to use it near the tongue, that you will recall is near the ground, requires them to excavate a small trench. They waste time figuring out that they can move the jack aft and try to raise it from there. But that typically means that the jack will not extend high enough to get the bulldog over their super duty truck hitch. Sorry for your back injuries from trying to power lifting our 640 pound tongue weight. More time wasted. Layer 5: In their haste, they had failed to notice that I also have a security lock on the Bulldog. More time wasted to saw off that lock. At this point the dumb ones give up on my Ollie and go to yours. But the Professional thieves have a different path entirely. Instead of taking the time to attack hardened steel, they bypass them entirely. They back up their truck to the bulldog, grab our safety chains/cables and wrap them tightly around their hitch and run them through two carabiners. Fasten them and hall ass. Truly 60 seconds and gone. Layer 6: But wait, you took a few seconds to bolt and double nut your safety cables/chains to together up under the fiberglass propane tank cover. Now they have to go fetch real tools to unbolt or cut your grade 8 steel bolt. More time wasted. Layer 7: Your last straw of hope in getting your trailer back is that tracker you placed over Ollie. Why here? Because no double bubble and better reception overhead. The above are the best seven of my 12 "Home Alone" fun things to mess with thieves. But if you want to explore others consider: Exploding dye packs, trip wires to screamers, and my all time favorite is an electric fence transformer grounded and attached to the frame of Ollie. 🙂 GJ PS: My favorite fun movie is the Christmas Special "Home Alone". I liked the original one the best.

It is possible to replace your brake assemblies with units that have a mechanical “parking brake feature”. That system is operated by cables and a lever that mounts on the tongue. It is designed to be left on ALL the time you are parked. It also provides extra stability when you are camping by stopping the rocking of the tires. It does not replace chocks! If you mounted the actuating lever out of sight, under the tongue or in the doghouse (propane cover) it would be a fairly effective theft deterrent. If your existing brakes are worn or corroded, this would be a sensible upgrade. Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Assembly with Parking Brake - 12" - Left Hand - 6,000 lbs John Davies Spokane WA

RE your comment above ( ...and perhaps pulling the pin to the brake locks so they are always on...) DO NOT pull the pin to leave the brakes on all the time. Doing that will only work until it depletes your batteries then you will have no battery power, the brakes will release and the trailer can be rolled away... On the other hand, it is recommended to routinely pull the pin to check to make sure the safety mechanism is functioning properly, this amounts to an emergency braking system in the event your trailer breaks loose of your tow vehicle on the road, it will help slow it down, or at least it will cause it to have skid marks into whatever it careens into as it freewheels into something. I too have a Proven Industry lock but I upgraded the puck lock to an Abloy Sentry Cylinder in a Steel Ft. Knox puck lock body which I bought from Ft. Knox Locks. it ended up costing almost $400 for the set (Bulldog lock by Proven and an upgraded Abloy cylinder in a Ft knox Steel puck-lock) but for the nearly $100,000 piece of equipment I'm looking to protect it didn't seem out of line to spend that much. Puck lock with ugraded Abloy key cylinder (which is virtually unpickable) https://ftknoxlocks.com/shop/ols/products/abloy-sentry-cylinder-in-ft-knox-steel-puck-lock-body Proven Industries locks https://www.provenlocks.com/ I didn't like the aluminum puck lock that came with the Proven Industries lock so that's why I opted for the Ft Knox puck lock and use it with the Proven Industries bull dog coupler lock. It's a very nice combination.

So sorry this happened but glad you got your Ollie back. I have hitch lock but have been thinking about throwing an AirTag somewhere in the Ollie. Might help find it faster if it ever goes missing and they are cheap enough to put a couple in the trailer.

Yep - But, you can "bugger up" the nuts on those bolts so that they are very difficult to remove. Buggered bolts or not - if they really want it, they will find a way to get it. For instance - bring a flat bed and drag the Ollie onto it and drive away. 😰😞 Bill

Thank you @John E Davies for posting the download photos. I couldn't open them. @angler, I'd consult with Oliver on paint removal. Looks like they were trying to turn your Ollie into an Airstream, and ran out of time or paint. So glad you were able to recover it. Best of luck!

No, but any generic coupler could be attached. For that matter, I've mostly read of thieves simply looping the safety chains around a tow ball, and be gone!

The Proven Industries Lock does not cover either of the two bolts on the 2" bull dog hitch. I never thought about that being a weak point for protection of the Oliver, but I guess it could be. On the other hand, do thiefs carry a bull dog hitch to install on a trailer after taking off the one that is locked? I hope that they are not that determined or smart.

We have an Amcrest GPS GL300 tracker. Whenever our Elite II is: (1) away from its fully-enclosed storage shed next to our home, and (2) not connected to our tow vehicle, we turn the tracker on. It requires a subscription fee, but we enjoy the peace of mind. I have read anecdotal stores of such trackers being used by police to find stolen trailers. In your shoes, I would leave the tracker on whenever it is parked in front of your home. The tracker is in addition to two different kinds of Bulldog coupler locks, which we install when leaving the trailer at a campground unattended.

My Criminal Law professor in law school, Woody Deem, started each class session with the statement: "Criminals are stupid." He would then delight the class with real stories from his decades as the Ventura County California prosecuting attorney.

I would hope that the Proven Industries lock and a wheel lock with stop most future thiefs. Hopefully the person(s) who stole your trailer were the type of person that comes along once in a lifetime. Asking the repair shop their opinion of what to buy might help.

Hey Forum Pals, I love all your comments. Thanks for the support, and it's great to have my rig back. Hopefully I will be on the road again in a month or so. I have been looking at the Proven Industries lock that Snake River suggests. My rig is about 30 miles away at the repair shop, so I can't easily look at it, but if my fading geriatric memory serves, it seems that the bulldog hitch is held to the frame by a single bolt. Does anyone know if the Proven Industries hitch lock covers this bolt or could the thieves simply unbolt the hitch and quickly attach their own to the rig. It also looks like Proven Industries also makes a killer wheel lock. Any one have experience with it? This theft has turned me a bit paranoid, and I have looked at a few videos of how easy it is to freeze (liquid nitrogen) or pick many of the low to moderately priced wheel locks. I'd love to hear more people's thoughts on security. Obviously the best is indoors and locked up, but I am not in a location where I can manage that. Any one have experience with removable bollards in front of the rig? I suspect that I will go with multiple items. Hitch lock, wheel lock or two, tracker, and perhaps pulling the pin to the brake locks so they are always on. It's getting a bit over the top, but...

@angler Glad that your Ollie has been recovered and you at least you can now work on getting it back ship shape. Naturally you will want to go through ALL your systems and determine the extent of ALL damage done. As for additional security measures you could consider high end security cameras along with your motion sensor lighting. If a thief wants anything bad enough they will likely succeed. Short of removing the wheels during storage there are no 💯 guarantees that it won’t be stolen again. Possibly find a local indoor storage garage? Out of sight out of mind. Again glad to hear your happy ending with your Ollie recovery. I hope that your insurance company does everything in their power to make you whole again.👍🏻 Patriot🇺🇸

So glad your Ollie has been found. Yaaay for MUD! Looks like they wanted to paint her silver and disguise her as an Airstream. Haha. Fiberglass is a remarkably resilient product and with a lot of TLC, she'll be heading out to the fishing holes again, just like new.

Wow! So glad you’ve recovered your Ollie. I’m sure you can correct what they messed up. It’s good to have a happy ending to this. Mike

This seems pretty high risk for a thief. Probably don't realize how rare the LE1 is and that we are a well connected community. It has no scrap value, and using it regularly in public would be very risky. Maybe it will turn up and somehow you will get it back. Unfortunately if it does it will probably be way down the road.

@anglerWow..😔This is the first time I have read about an Oliver being stolen. It’s sad to hear about your news. I hope that you are made whole by your insurance company and that the thieves are caught and swiftly brought to justice. If I see or hear about an Oliver for sale I will PM you with information. If and only when you are comfortable doing so would you consider sharing the details of how this theft occurred?. This information could really help other owners with situational awareness, as well as step up of additional security of their Olivers. If you have not already done so, I suggest you inform Oliver TT of this theft as well. Hang in there, stay positive, surely good will over come evil. Patriot🇺🇸