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Today we pulled the trigger on the Starlink “mini”and I also ordered a custom fabricated aluminum protective Striker mount case made by a small family owned company in Florida 🇺🇸 called Strikerfab.com. I will post up thoughts on connectivity, speed and use once we receive it and get some camping and travel time in with it. https://www.starlink.com/us/roam?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAAR3VXVoA8Gb9hdnLaMWqBcXsa1BfRBdqm_l2iKkNW-Va5r6RJiPc2u8PpD0_aem_DeHBx7JMI-i_vIWAYBg03Q https://www.strikerfab.com/

This phrase caught my eye. If the LP line is in the area of the fridge that vents ONLY outside, then this is OK not best. I've read some about this fridge needing an interior vent, then not OK at all. Best installation would be to remove the gas line T-coupling down at the frame below the cabin and replace it with a straight coupling. This way there is absolutely no chance of LP leak into the cabin interior.

I bought a pickup almost 40 years ago, too. But then, I immediately turned it into a station wagon with a capper. I sold that about 25 years ago, and the two times I really needed one since, I rented it at Home Depot for $19.95. I haven't missed it at all, and replaced it with a subcompact turbo wagon. We didn't even have a pickup truck growing up on Grandpa's farm. Surprisingly, the Land Cruiser has a higher cargo capacity than some variations of Toyota's 1/2 ton Tundra. GVWR is 7385, max towing is 8100, max tongue weight is 750, and cargo capacity is 1360 pounds. And I've removed the 40 pound roof basket and 150 pounds of seats, before adding the fridge and drawers. The fridge was needed for the tiny trailer, and still comes in handy with the Oliver. Especially for preparing frozen food at home for extended trips. I get you on the tiny trailer. It's not for everyone, but we enjoyed it for seven years. It sure beat tent camping on the ground! But at 70, a little more comfort in the Oliver is very welcome.

As usual Steve and @mossemi are correct. It is 1" Aluminum angle. mine measured 25", Mossey wrote 26". There is no reason at all (two) 24" pieces would not work. The T-shape I noticed in the above picture was an illusion seeing the mounting bracket. I just climbed up and measured. The mounts are 27" center-to-center and if yours measure the same (and about 59.5" front to back) then your installation was likely the same as mine. Good time to CLEAN the roof! 🤣 With these pics you could rebuild yours to match. The two panels do not have a center support. They are just bolted in 5 places, looks like 1/4" HW. Since you're build from scratch, not sure if angle mounts make real sense, but check out this post: HOW TO: Solar panel extension arms. - Ollie Modifications - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com)

Here is something interesting I found from Lew. You can take their 5 leaf 2750 lb. spring and remove the small bottom leaf and end up with a 4 leaf spring rated around 2050 lb. But, he also said he knows of no one who has done this yet.

Mossey, I only looked at one axle and assumed 🫤 they had two different SN's, never thought two axles would have same serial number. 😐 Will check my axle SN's during the first part of August, making one more modification to the F-150 before towing Ollie during the first part of August. Updated: 2010 LE2 #45 SC 50.5" D52 Original axle capacity 2014 LE2 #50 SC 50.5" D52 Original axle capacity & Alcan spring & Disc Brake upgrades 2015 LE2 #75 SC 50” D52 Original axle capacity 2016 LE2 #110 SC 50” D35 Original axle capacity (Gathered from Wayfinder's posts) 2016 LE2 #113 SC 50 “ D35 Original axle capacity 2017 LE2 #193 SC 50.5" D35 Original axle capacity 2017 LE2 #208 SC 50.5" D35 Original axle capacity 2017 LE2 #226 SC 50.5” D52 Upgraded axle capacity & Alcan springs 2020 LE2 #579 SC 50.5" D35 Original axle capacity 2021 LE2 #898 SC 50.5" D35 Original axle capacity & Alcan springs upgrade 2023 LE2 #1386 SC 50.5" D52 Original axle capacity Please me know if information needs to be added/changed for a hull # and can also add additional campers including LE1's.

It took awhile, but I finally found pictures of my axle label and although I had several pictures I wondered why they all had the same serial number. I went under the Ollie and found that I only had 1 label and it was on the rear axle. I then found the engraved SN for the front axle and it was the same as the rear, which I thought was weird. So I emailed that information to Dexter asking for an as built sheet and if tandem axles should have the same SN. Dexter sent back a single build sheet and never addressed my question about the same SN on both axles. So the question that I now have is if anyone else has the same SN's on both axles and if that is Dexter's standard practice? The attachment is for 2017 LE2 #193 which has the original suspension equipment Mossey ö

I remember seeing some folks wondering about a Spring rated somewhere between the original 1750 # and the Alcan 2750#. That was my only point. Some folks think the Alcans might be too stiff, but from what I am hearing this is not the case.

I had that happen recently and it was caused by calcification in the flow restrictor / check valve assembly. Soaking both assemblies in vinegar for 20 min solved the problem. In my case the low pressure was only when using the city water. Worked perfectly off the fresh tank.

Have you consistently used an inline water filter and water softener? If not, sanitizing the plumbing is overdue.

That is probably the best and safest way to go. I wasn't clear with my comment.🙃

@rideandfly - Steve and Talii's Hull #50 has SC 50.5" D52's w/disc brakes and upgraded Alcan springs --- FYI.

Thanks John-I talked to Mike at Oliver and the fit is not exact-some fiberglass work would be required and a platform built to support it. We are kind of in a pickle because Norcold discontinued the model and does not have any replacement parts. Looking at the same model on ebay, might go with that. Wish us luck!

This was asked and answered in another thread titled, "AC upgrade conundrum." At that time, I checked and the Atmos is spec'd at 0.9" taller than the OEM Dometic Penguin. Given OTT specs the EII as "Outside Height To Top Of A/C: 9' 8" call it 9' 9" with an Atmos which should not make any real difference, even for a 10' garage door.

Maybe you bring too much stuff? 😜 I came to the Oliver from a (square) teardrop, and backpacking before that. So compactness and comfortable camping go hand in hand. We routinely carry six chairs with us, but four of them take up less space than the larger lounger. My outdoor kitchen, which travelled in the tiny trailer, too, folds down about the size of a small Costco folding table. We easily travelled a month from Ohio to Florida last year, taking four seasons of clothes with us. We can easily carry the 12' Clam, our propane fire pit, a third 20# propane can, etc. for comfortable and fun excursions. We have yet had trouble fitting stuff without resorting to packing to the rafters. We even brought home a tree in the bathroom from last year's Oliver rally! I don't want a pickup. This is the vehicle I've aspired to for 40+ years since first test driving an FJ40, and I won't be replacing it with anything else. And it will hold its value and be more reliable than any pickup ever made. Hell, both it and the Oliver will outlast me, and my kids have already argued over who has dibs on both. 🤣

Absolutely! As in any hooking up/unhooking situation, make sure you have chocks in place. Only once have I had any binding where the ball didn't easily drop out of the hitch. Raising it a couple more inches and the truck dropped right out.

BTW, I did get a return authorization on the KISAE and just got refund less shipping yesterday. I have not heard if they tested it to determine the issue. Twice for me it would not recognize shore power, so the A/C would not run and later it ran fine for 2 weeks in bypass mode from shore power before I removed it. The combination of lead-acid batteries, 2KW Xantrex inverter (older model w/o charger) and old Dometic Penguin (according to the EMS draws 15A on shore power), did not add up to a viable solution. I wired the A/C back to the breaker directly. I received 600AH Epoch LiFePO4 batteries, waiting on shipment of a 3KVA Victron MP2 inverter that of course has the built-in ATS (shore or inverter) that will power all Oliver 120VAC needs.

You’ll need to salute each time you exit! 🤣

All fasteners are one of our regular inspection areas on our checklist. Good reminder!

Amazon purchases, as shown below. I choose the clear acrylic rod as to not obstruct light from the under cabinet fixture. There is enough room to flip the light switch with an upward facing open hand. I choose clear plastic shower curtain rings, as well. A change of clothes or other apparel can be staged on the toilet seat underneath the curtain when showering. If one has the composting toilet it would be well protected from moisture. The curtain can either be left draped over or tucked behind the toilet to dry. I find it best to squeegee the wet surfaces, then leave the vent fan on with the door closed during the drying process to reduce humidity in the cabin. I have never had a problem with the door leaking during a shower. ADDED TIP: Hooks are placed to each side of the upper cabinet, one for his and her hand towels, and the other to stage a squeegee for the after shower cleanup.

Honestly, I don't how any of you manage, towing with SUVs! Go back to @John E Davies posts and you will see the custom shelving and everything else he did to store just a few small items. We feel inside storage of the Oliver EII is good with ample room for kitchen, bath, clothes and personal items. Where do you put all the camping items in an SUV? The Oliver has little outside storage. The front bin for generator (we stow a fire ring and cooking grate there). Then you have the awkward trunk. All we keep back there is the shore power cord, hoses, an accessory bag, empty jugs for fuel and radiator emergencies and our campground blanket. Back of the pickup is needed for lawn chairs, grill and stand, a folding table, tools and much more. To allow boondocking for a full week, we bring extra water too (35-gal tank). The only constraint is the black tank (will just last a week), but no, we're not composting poop. 🤣 Get a pickup truck eventually and make it a 2500! Still use the Anderson, unless you purchase a modern beast of a truck. It will make setup and tear-down quick and easy and if you find something you want to buy along the road, you'll have the room to bring it home.

We didn’t get the Oliver shower curtain track with our Elite II. The curtain track is an odd design, seems a bit expensive, and some owners have had issues with the track detaching from the inner hull ceiling because of a poor riveting job. But we wanted a shower curtain though, so I attached the small Command hooks all around on the bathroom ceiling directly above the perimeter of the shower pan in the floor, and then hung a standard shower curtain on those hooks to take our showers, and easy to quickly remove the curtain to let it dry outside the trailer when done. It was a cheap and effective solution to keeping the toilet area dry. And easy to remove it all completely if ever needed. Command strips/hooks are a great accessory for attaching lot of things on the Ollie interior.

If your shower track idea doesn’t pan out, alternatively many have installed a shower rod under the cabinet. My install did require some drilling, but much less conspicuous than in the ceiling. A standard curtain is best cut to length for optimum fitment and functionality. The shower curtain can be stowed in the curved corner, used to shade the window, covers the head and towel rack when in use, and provides more space when showering.

So got the new U-bolts from ALCAN and put the new leaf springs on only to find out the HD 1/2 in. OEM shackles were too short. They are the HD 1/2 in width but 2 in long measured zerk to zerk. The 2nd leaf rides on the suspension arm. Talked with Lew, figured out the problem and he is sending out new 2 1/4in HD shackles to resolve the problem. Confirmed Key points: 3500 lb axles use 4 bolts on the backside of the hub and 1/2 in. U-bolts. They can have tube diameters of 2 1/2 or 3 in. Make sure to measure. 5200 lb axles use 5 bolts on the backside of the hub and 9/16 in U-bolts. They typically have tube diameters of 3 in. Make sure to measure. If you don't upgrade to the shackles Lew sells, make sure even if you have upgraded HD 1/2 in. shackles to measure the length. If it is 2 in they will not work, must be 2 1/4 in. Make sure to measure. Lew was great to deal with as always. @ScubaRx I did confirm that he does not want his 2/12 in U-bolts back. Hopefully, this adds to the conversation since both of these issues came up for me. Cheers, Mike

We have had the same issue on several of our cabinet doors as well. Ditto the advice above about using Blue Loctite (#243) or equivalent on the threads. I also noticed that the machine screws holding the doors to the hinges only engage with a few turns of the threads. I don't know if this is the same on all model years or not. I changed out the machine screws to a slightly longer one that engages more threads (and thus the Loctite thread locker *should* perform better). The jury is still out on this as I've only recently made this change. OEM screw size: M3-0.50 x 6mm long, stainless steel, Phillips truss head Replacement screw size: M3-0.50 x 8mm long, 18-8 stainless steel, Phillips truss head, with an oversized M3 18-8 stainless steel washer under the head. I ordered mine from McMaster-Carr, but you can likely find smaller or per-unit quantities from another supplier. M3-0.50 x 8mm Phillips truss head Screws: https://www.mcmaster.com/92467A119 Oversize M3 washers (9mm OD): https://www.mcmaster.com/91116A120

A thread for your reading pleasure . Many older owners have done the swap, with a few different brands.

Edit: Changed video about 3.4 Engine

Just took our factory delivery (a Great Experience…) & stayed at the Oliver campground to spend a night. The following morning, the CP-Panel had the triangle/! icon lite & the water heater icon/information was missing as well. The error code W255 W was displayed when scrolling/selecting the triangle / Icon… An initializing of ‘reset’ resulted in No change…still no water heater info on display. The only ‘problem’ was the 3-position on/off/on switch on the water heater was in the ‘off’ position, so selecting ‘ON’ & then repeating the reset/initializing process restored the water info on the panel - ‘Problem Solved’

Welcome to the Oliver family and the forum! Steep learning curve those first few days using the Ollie. Just tested mine with the unit switch off and that is the code that popped up on the control panel when I tried to turn the water heater on inside. Not sure why they are saying to turn off the unit switch for travel. I would personally only turn this off for storage.

Make sure your Truma water heater main switch is set to the 'on' position. This switch is located on the water heater itself and can be set to either the up or down position. The center position is off.

I've had them come loose but not fall off as yours did. After tightening those three or four times I re-assembled them with a couple of drops of Locktite (blue) on each bolt. They have not come loose since. Bill p.s. be careful to not overtighten and see if you can find that washer. The plastic can crack if you overtighten.

Looks like Toyota is stepping up to the plate. A massive undertaking no doubt. https://www.motor1.com/news/727930/toyta-replace-100k-engines-tundra-lexus/

"Some sway" can go to fishtailing shockingly fast in the right conditions. Had a similar experience with our first rig, a trailer behind a V8 Ford Explorer. We had a Hensley hitch, but the dealer installed it incorrectly and we suddenly got strong sway while crossing a big bridge. i was able to maintain control but it was scary.