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Just brought her home, new to us 2017 Elite II. Hull 207. We are so excited to be here and to be the proud new owners of this beauty! We have a Casita independence which we will be selling. We live in NH. We both retired in the past few years and want to explore our amazing United States while we are still in our go go years. We are looking forward to learning about the Ollie and enjoying adventures on the road.

We decided to replace our sewer hose with a Lippert Cam Lock version. They are expensive but have a nice design that includes a smooth interior and that improves flow. I used the honey pot option so I wouldn’t have to modify the interlocking connection on the Oliver. I purchased the primary hose, a coupler, and the honey pot cable for the same functionality. I also received an adapter that can be used to permanently modify the Oliver, but don’t anticipate ever using it. I did purchase the hose adapter to convert the honey pot hose to allow a garden hose connection as we only dump grey water and want to be able to dump to a container for longer stays where we don’t have sewer hookups at the campsite. I have attached a video. IMG_0349.mov

A small amount of hot water can pass through the kitchen faucet valve. Those lever-operated combination valves will do that, even a "dribble" when new, more when the internal O-ring seal wears with some age. The real question is why the cold ran so long without the pump kicking in. The cut-in pressure did not work correctly on your water pump allowing the cold side to drain completely. Given this has happened before, you likely need a new water pump. It kicked in later when at zero pressure and likely water leaking in from the pressurized hot side backfilled the cold allowing the pump to prime. Just my hypothesis. Could also be you run more often on City Water and the pump pressure switch got stuck from lack of use. Either way, I would replace your water pump, knowing this is likely to reoccur. I also suggest replacing with an upgraded model over the OEM pump. You can add 5 PSI with no ill effect on the plumbing and go +1 GPM for much improved performance. Water pumps are relatively cheap and an easy swap.

Don’t take my word for any electrical source in your Ollie, be sure to verify your own voltage source! Mossey

That's cool, Steve! A few times I've tried watercolors and pencil drawing, but I just can't make progress. I spent my entire adult life making drawings for technical documentation, patents, engineering drawings, advertising, etc. But take a compass, straightedge, or CAD away from me and my work looks like a kindergartener! My hands apparently do not connect to the left side of my brain...

Episode 10: and Episode 11:

Our Alcan "before and after" height measurement raised the Casablanca by 1/2"-ish, FYI... However, we've got a 12-foot door so we've got a way to go before height becomes an issue - maybe re-mount the axles in the "sprung over" mode? HA!

@Wayfinder I thought you wanted Oliver to install 5200 LB axles. You should check with Dexter about the availability of 5200 LB axles to replace your OEM axles after you get your as built documents. Mossey

I preferred to stay with the self adjust, only worked the Timken upgrade. No other parts on our Oliver needed replacing, though our hull is likely low mileage. Here’s my take.

To follow up -- they both fit! I still haven't tested my generator, but plan to do it some time this week.

My older brother often said "that many hands, make light work". Mossey

But to the other 1,000+ owners, it may make a difference to a few of them...... 🙂

@jd1923 and @Ronbrink did a great job laying out what they did to tie in the new Beech Lane fans. I just wasn't "getting it" at first what @jd1923 had done, since we seem to have the same fridge setup. Even with pictures in color I was not "seeing it". LOL. Now I get it thanks to Mike adding my own picture back to me. Nice! I've just ordered my Beech Lane and will be attempting the same setup. Thanks again, and again, and again, to everyone participating. We need to get together someday and talk in person. Maybe a non-rally technical gathering. Heck, we could even do a Zoom call or something like that someday. That would be fun too.

I wanted to get more hands-on with the specific parts that will get installed onto my #110 (2016) trailer. This should make me better at supporting the older trailers too. I will also add any parts I use to my Maintenance Log and keep with the Ollie's manuals for future owners, if any. Using JD's older thread for breaks and drums, I see the prices have gone up nearly $30 since 2021, just for the drum kit. 😜 I'd like to try to keep this thread focused on only replacing the OEM parts with either OEM parts or good alternatives, without going off the rails with fancy, expensive "possible" upgrade ideas. I have enough squirrels in my life. 😉 Also thanks to @mossemi for giving me an idea for a local shop from which to order, I might check them out too, but first to get smarter on what I will need. For you experienced owners and do-it-yourselfers, see if I'm mucking up anything please, if you have time to check your own notes. The trailerparts.com site provided by JD in 2021 still lists the part 655D with everything needed for the Brake Drum replacement. (Convenient) Dexter 10" x 2 1/4" Brake Drum - 6 on 5 1/2" with 1 3/8" x 1 1/16" Bearings (68149 x L44649) - 1/2" Studs - $99.24 NOTE: I know all about the better Timken bearings and races from other threads. They're on my radar if needed (it's a dead horse). I'm thinking of going with manually adjustable brake assemblies on my original Dexter Nev-R-Adjust axles. Dexter 10" x 2.25" Electric Trailer Brake Kit - Left & Right Hand Assemblies - 3,500 lbs. Axle Capacity - $136.71 <OR> etrailer Electric Trailer Brakes - 10" - Left/Right Hand Assemblies Manual Adjust - 3,500 lbs - $106.57 ** I don't think there is any issue going to manual brakes, is there? I don't mind adjusting myself. Thoughts? Otherwise, I will go with: Dexter Nev-R-Adjust 10" x 2.25" Electric Brake Kit - Left & Right Hand Assemblies - 3,500 lbs. Axle Capacity - $195.45 ($192 at eTrailer) And of course the all-mighty Alcan Springs I already have plenty of the Red Line CV-2 synthetic grease along with all the tools. I've repacked the bearing at least once. Shock Absorbers: Monroe 555001 (any other better options?) Grease Seals: National Oil Seals Part #473336 Purchased at O'Reilly Auto Parts (Also get at eTrailer, Item # RG06-050) (just where I found parts in 2021) Timken Parts if needed: 4 x L44649 Timken SET4 - Outer Bearings (1 1/16" ID) 4 x L68149 Timken SET17 - Inner Bearings (1 3/8" ID) 4 x L44610 Timken Outer Races 4 x L68111 Timken Inner Races

That would be very convenient if Oliver will order your axles! Please post your axle build sheet when you get it! I can update the list, if needed.

@jd1923 has shown me the trees beyond the forest. I was not "getting it". Now I think I do. So maybe OTT can special order the size of axles for my trailer and install them getting all the upgrades I want at once. Hmmm. I will get my serial numbers off my axles soonest.

I did that already. OTT installed my EZ-Flex parts at the factory, after they realized they could not install the new axles for me. 😞 I had the parts still in the box, so that was a great help.

Thanks! I’m trying to embrace my inner kindergartener! 🤣

Wayfinder, you will need to replace your seals too, so you should had those, qty 4.

I was tired of the Shower door flexing and decided to try little upgrade. Cut out door from 4 x 8 FRP plastic sheeting. Picked up damaged piece from Lowes and cut out. It has made the door more ridgid and solid. Used Cauling on edges and glue on innter. Was afraid to drill anything. Seems very solid for now. Only issues are my skills are lacking on cutting and saw did get away from me on the bottom not quite a perfect line. Love how the new doors are a solid piece on newer models of olivers.

Ty J, It was my Humor, which gets me in trouble every now and then. I really did understand that the Clips, Clamps and Braces, would come off before use. And we will be installing a tether of some sorts on the frame to bath door/latch, as it popped open again while under tow on our last trip, however nothing was damaged this time. B~OUT

AWESOME! Welcome to the OTT Family - we love pix, so get out on the road and start posting your new Oliver adventures! Cheers!

When I do these jobs, I do all I can, prep everything, get to the point where I can grab my son, and he helps with the heavy lifting! This is at times a two-person job.

Is this required? Should not be so in a well engineered A/C. When set temp is several degrees lower than actual temp, the A/C should be full on, no compressor cycling.

Should not matter to you or me. You already purchased a Houghton and I my Oliver sits outdoors!

After you get your axle as built sheet, go to Dexter's website and find the equipment you want or go to a local distributor and let them know what you want to do. FleetPride in Augusta is a Dexter distributor. Mossey

Maybe. What about the taller ALCAN spring height added? Getting closer to that 10 foot number? GJ

I would still prefer the 2400 rated dexter four leaf if it has more steel. One would need to compare the weights though. GJ

Chris, Oliver could still upgrade your Ollie if they ordered axles according to your specific serial numbered axles, probably SC 50" (axle spring center), Dexter's axle lead time of 3 to 3 1/2 weeks for special orders, if Oliver would agree to this. Hope you don't mind me thinking out loud, 🙂

Damn, I just tried to help @Ralph Mawyer with his question, and get piled on left and right! Im 5’7” and Deb is 5’1” She weighs less than me. We’re not average. I spent 45 years doing mechanical engineering, so I know numbers, too. Im out…

Y’all are welcome to come and measure my tire gap, weigh my truck, weigh my wife, etc. But you’re wrong. I measured tire gap before adding Firestone bags without the trailer, after adding bags without the trailer, and after adding bag with the trailer. The fronts are within 1/4” of stock, and the rears are taller than stock with the trailer in trip configuration. No kitchen sink here, and a good thing my wife doesn’t see your saying she weighs more than average! Combined we are 318 pounds. Mostly you’re making assumptions about things you know nothing about…

How do you keep the water inside, with all the Clips, Clamps and Braces on it... Just Kidding, Our latched door evidently tweaked enough to open (under tow) and cracked the mirror or by slamming against the dinette stop... we only have 5 years BAD LUCK remaining. I must admit that the mirror glass only 'spidered', and did not fall from the door. Just applied 'Gorilla Tape" in a nice star pattern, and lived with it the rest of the way home. B~OUT

Correct, Last season, We arrived in Inuvik, NWT where we discovered that one of the rears snapped (same area as most previous pics). We were able to replace it (similar, but not exact) and we continued onto Tuktoyaktuk. On the return to Inuvik and the same mechanics shop, I thanked them for their help, but noticed the other 'rear' had snapped (same area as most previous pics) sometime between Inuvik to Tuk & back to Inuvik. Note: I drove to Inuvik on the way up the Dumpster, and Maggie drove from Inuvik onto Tuk and back to Inuvik. While waiting for the 2nd replacement leaf spring, we found that all four shocks were blown, (this may have been before the trip), we just did not check them before we left for the trip and that probably contributed to LS failure. We had 4 new Monroe 555001 brought in and installed. a couple days later the leaf spring arrived and we were on our way to Whitehorse for 4 new/matching leaf springs. In Whitehorse, they installed 'UNA-212' rated Capacity: 1,830 lbs. each, the 4-leaf measurements were close enough for us... Oliver uses the MPN: UNA-210 rated at 1,750 ea. We made it home no issues, and back up to AK and around this season, no issues. Just not the NWT. So we are running with something a bit different than most of you. We will keep an eye on our shocks. I see some pics of something different than the High Gloss Black 555001 Monroe's on other trailers I am not going to make any changes until I see what OTTO’s comments are after this camping season. B~Out

I remember seeing some folks wondering about a Spring rated somewhere between the original 1750 # and the Alcan 2750#. That was my only point. Some folks think the Alcans might be too stiff, but from what I am hearing this is not the case.

Here is something interesting I found from Lew. You can take their 5 leaf 2750 lb. spring and remove the small bottom leaf and end up with a 4 leaf spring rated around 2050 lb. But, he also said he knows of no one who has done this yet.

The 2 Zamp panels on our 2017 LE2 are 160 watt panels. They are joined together with aluminum angle front and rear. Mossey

This was asked and answered in another thread titled, "AC upgrade conundrum." At that time, I checked and the Atmos is spec'd at 0.9" taller than the OEM Dometic Penguin. Given OTT specs the EII as "Outside Height To Top Of A/C: 9' 8" call it 9' 9" with an Atmos which should not make any real difference, even for a 10' garage door.

Perhaps @rideadeuce captured that information and can provide a measurement. EDIT: @Geronimo John, the Atmos 4.4 unit height measures 11.14” and 12.17” installed, if I’m interpreting the Technical Details correctly.

Thanks, I will update you upon my return. I expect to have a more clearer idea by then of what I want to accomplish.

Tested my head bumper out the first trip out - Oliver campground 1st night... lol I have to say I remember it every time now when exiting.

Correct, but based on the labels, the solar breaker is the red one in the left. @mthom: if there's no reset button on the red breaker on the left, try turning your solar panels off for a few seconds using the red switch above the bed, then turn them back on in an attempt to reset an auto-reset breaker.

Make sure the red lever on the Optifuse resettable breaker is pushed inwards (see arrow on picture). The Optifuse breaker on the left shown in the photo is in the open state when the lever is popped out like that. The Optifuse on the right is closed. The red rubber covers on the outer two items are just contact covers on the other self resetting breakers. The Optifuse breakers can manually opened by pressing the little red button on them (which will make the red lever pop out), and then pushing the red lever back in to reset. And this is my first post in a long while since we sold our Ollie. A sad day when it was towed away, but it went to a good new owner. We’ve moved on to other travel plans now. But I still lurk here on the forums occasionally 🙂

What is your hull#? We also have a 2023 (Hull# 1386) and unless the previous owner made changes there should be a breaker panel under the street side bed. Here's a pic of it, check the 2 breakers and the fuse under the red cap below "SOLAR (50A, TYPE 2"). As you can see our inverter breaker is in the off position.

Nothing better than riding and enjoying nature without the worries of automobile traffic. I compete in 12/24 hour races and recently started chasing records so a minimum of 10k per year is pretty much necessary for me to perform well. Was lucky enough to set a cross Florida record back in May, and still paying a price for it so mileage a little lower since then.. 😂

If you want to run it via inverter, say for testing purposes, you merely have to trip the 20A breaker for the air conditioner. The KISEA will sense no shore power voltage and connect the inverter to the A/C load wiring.

OK... Been thinking of this for a while and with some encouragement from @Geronimo John - it's probably a good a time as ever to post this. So, last month the traveling Knuckleheads and I visited the "first come - first served" Oliver Campground for some maintenance activities. We pull in around mid-afternoon knowing there's likely to be some serious WX coming in our direction. Having never been to the much touted-about showroom and maintenance facility located in an industrial area "across the tracks" in Hohenwald, the puppies and I met all the fantastic people in the showroom and general workshop area. Josh showed us all the new upgrades to the 2024 models and Magnus and Oscar approvingly inspected every square inch of them. We were adorned with swag like one couldn't believe (albeit the coveted "Ravel Cups" were no where to be seen)... Retiring to the Casablanca as the only Oliver in the campground, we threw on some Chris Stapelton and settled in to chill for a bit. A few minutes later, a rap at the main entry hatch... "Sir, since you're still coupled, it would be advisable to bring your rig through the main gate and under the protective metal roof by the shop". Assuming he (I'm thinking it was Mike) knows the WX patterns a ton better than us - I "rogered-up" and by the time I managed to snuggle the Tundra under the awning, the hail went from pea size to "no SH!T" golfball size. Never experience hail balls like that. The noise was louder than sitting behind the JBD waiting to launch with an F-8 in full burner on the CAT! IMG_1665.MOV It lasted about 20 minutes or so... The Oliver folks literally save our Tundra from being destroyed by the storm's hail - our metal panels aren't like the thickness of trucks back in the day - they're very thin. Jason Essary came up during the deluge, explaining that they get this type of storm often and I asked about the 6 or 7 brand new OTTs in the parking lot totally exposed to the hurling ice balls like ours was... He said, "No worries, until those hail balls get to the size of frozen chickens, they'll be good as gold!" WOW! Our's was completely being pelted by the hail as Jason explained this and sure enough - no issues! We'd just like to take this moment to thank ALL of the OTT employees that were there that day, helping us save the mighty TV, our Tundra... Cheers, ALL!

@MAX Burner and @Geronimo John Thank you for putting in the time and effort needed in order to create this suspension spring pack replacement MOP. 👏👏👏 Mossey

GJ, I would put you up against the Terminator, for attention to detail. Thank you for all you do. And @MAX Burner you are my recent favorite installer (after 45 years of me just pluggin' along). Great work in everything you do! I also love the fact that we purchased out OTTs within a few months of each other (you had a head start, not fair). GJ and I already have a plan. We're meeting at your place this summer. And If I get there first, I'm backing my Oliver into your garage first thing, Ah mechanics heaven. Sorry, GJ! God Bless you guys, God Bless America, and God Bless all y'alls on this wonderful Easter weekend. Not afraid to say it, just proud to be a hard-working American, the country that had allowed us to prosper and travel this great country in our little fiberglass traveling homes. 😂

Sounds like you preformed a refrigerant equivalent of the Canalith Repositioning Procedure. I’m impressed. That was a bold move and I’m really glad it worked for you. Do you have any idea what might have caused the original problem?