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We have a Clearsource Ultra water filter and Blu Tech water softener mounted in our TV. We rarely connect the trailer directly to city water and instead fill its fresh tank with filtered and softened water. We've been wanting to add a UV water filter for drinking water, but until recently haven't found one that uses 12v power that we liked. Blu Tech recently introduced their UVC Purification Faucet and it's just what we were looking for. UV water filters haven't been discussed very much on this forum, and since this is a new product there's not much information about it on the internet. We decided to go for it anyway. This YouTube video review was posted earlier today, about a week after we bought one. You may ask, why do we want a UV filter? It makes sense for us because we don't want to carry around disposable bottles of drinking water. We want to be confident that our filtered and softened tap water is safe for drinking. Since our "pure" water sits in a reservoir for a week or longer, even if unlikely, microbial contamination is still possible. The UV filter is our final defense against pathogens. The install in our Oliver was very easy. It does require drilling a hole in the countertop, but the Blu Tech UVC faucet looks like it belongs there. The kit came with a 120 volt AC adapter that supplies the UVC faucet with 12 volts DC at 2 amps. We don't always run the inverter and we're not always on shore power. For our install we ditched the AC adapter and purchased a DC5521 connector so we could wire directly to a 12 volt circuit. The Norcold refrigerator is on a 20 amp fuse, so we tapped into its power supply and added a 3 amp fuse at the splice. Blu Tech doesn't supply a separate DC5521 connector for direct wiring, and we didn't want to cut it off from the supplied ac adapter in case we need to send it back. Besides the DC connector, we also had to purchase the parts to tie it into our freshwater line. The faucet requires 1/4 inch PEX. We inserted a threaded t-connector with a 1/4 inch PEX fitting in-between the existing cold water PEX to braided stainless faucet fitting under the sink. After installation I saw that the counterweight for the kitchen faucet hose bumped against the new t-connector. We used zip ties to hold the water lines away from the counterweight when it goes up/down. So far so good. A blue light glows at the faucet base when the water is running. The style of the faucet is a close match to the original.

Wood blocks and legos… my jacks rarely extend more than 6” or so. Less is better. If I do drive off while they are down chances are they will just slide off the block.

The below is in response to the bent jack. Nothing to do with the rubbing issue. These jacks are really strong, but they do bend. Especially when they are fully extended and moved with the foot loaded. I have seen a lot worse tilt and they continue to be just fine. Sadly, this likely is not an OTT issue, but an owner / operator caused OOPs.

Very wise! Absolutely possible. Barker has built thousands of jacks using the OTT bracket. They would have a jig fixture to weld the OTT provided bracket to the jack. So this could be a new guy mistake. Frankly it is time for you to just remove BOTH rear jacks from the trailer and bench inspect them side to side. Photo what you find. Doing so gives you the facts. It also puts you in a position to say it is "Obvious" and also if It is a Barker or OTT issue. Then you can politely share your results. It would also be a great opportunity to figure out how//if you have a bent jack leg. Once again JD is on point.... With an intact and relatively straight jack leg, I think you would either dig a deep hole below the jack to remove the leg down. Or likely easier, remove the jack foot and pull the jack leg up and out. Also, as JD mentioned, use Lock-Tite Blue on the jack foot bolt when reassembling. I have found that with facts, both OTT and Barker are stand up and make it right teams. Get them the facts and I'll wager you get a new jack and bracket free even though it is out of warranty. Why? That would be the stand up make it right answer. GJ

The Girard awnings on our 2022 are not supposed to be left open in the rain. Girard explicitly states not to have them partially open in the rain, either. I would prefer swing out acrylic windows for sure.

It sure would be a price point game changer. Cha Ching!! 😎 💸🤑

I've been traversing the southern section of Nebraska this week, following along the Platte River, and parts of the Oregon Trail / California Trail / Mormon Trail and it's .... very different from the Sandhills or the Badlands. I stayed at Pawnee SRA (State Rec Area); Windmill SRA; a freebie (if barren) spot in Bayard City (2 nights free with power and water, additional nights for a fee; one of the power poles wasn't working); and Riverside Campground in Scotts Bluff (which turns out to be part of a fairly large city park with a lot of amenities for locals). The landscape is dramatic. Pawnee SRA (the prettiest of my spots in NE); Buffalo Bill's Ranch NHS; Chimney Rock; Scotts Bluff National Monument

Eurekaj, To use the camera switch for your TPMS Signal Booster, you will have to tap into the "switched" camera power circuit, not the fuse. Check out the modification titled "Turning on the rear camera automatically." It has instructions and pictures for tapping into the camera circuit inside the attic, which is easier than running a wire to the camera switch. It also shows how to connect directly to the Electronics fuse if you decide against the switch and just run a hot wire. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/10461-turning-on-the-rear-camera-automatically/ Cheers! Geoff

The only huge issue I would have with acrylic windows is how easy they scratch. Polishing scratches out of acrylic windows is a non starter for me. Let’s hope for future owners that the windows will be tilt out and glass and insulated.

With no response yet from OTT, I now suggest that you call Barker Mfg. They have been hyper responsive in the past. I know of no way to adjust the jack plate stop point (When it clicks on the clutch). It is a fixed point based on the assembly length. The stack up height of the jacks is a function of the jack length (Likely variable for different brands, and the OTT bracket thickness. My guess is that you somehow got the wrong length of the Barker Jack. Sending them your great pictures will be very informative. GJ PS: Since the jack leg length is easily confused, I also suspect that the root cause is the same as that for the Bulldog Coupler OOPs....Likely wrong part installed. There is a possibilty that the OE1 and OE2 have different jack leg lengths. Either way getting Barker into this dog tussle is a good idea.

I don’t think it will be full tilt out….only time will tell.

Given the distance from your home to Alaska, that was an excellent idea. It appears you had a great time as you experienced some spectacular scenery! I made the trip once so far, from Texas to Alaska with The Wonder Egg. Besides the stunning vistas In Alaska, I vividly recall it was an exceedingly long drive to get up there. Haha . . . maps don't give us the right perspective of distances, due to distortion in their layout. Don't get me wrong, the long trip up was filled with memorable, serendipitous moments and memories were made, but covering the vast distance by air and renting a camper locally was a great idea for you to save time, wear and tear on your rig, and check another one off that bucket list. Well done!

Your guesses make for a good starting point. I'd get up in the attic with a bunch of blue paper towels. Take the panels on both sides of the attic down - you don't have to remove them or disconnect any of the wires. Lay and/or tape the blue paper towels near/on the areas that you suspect (i.e. around the "Oliver" sign, around the hole into the main cabin, in the area of the rear view camera, as far as you can reach towards the a/c, etc.). Go outside and give this area a good soak with the garden hose. Go back inside to look for "dark" spots on the blue paper towels which will give you an indication as to where the leak is coming from. Good luck! Bill

Here’s a post on Facebook showing the new bathroom window, looks like a full tilt out awning window! https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1AfbuQxS34/?mibextid=wwXIfr

We felt the same with all the fuss getting things ready for our longer than usual trip, like your trip starting soon! Stayed 2 nights at our first stop and did absolutely nothing today! We needed this kind of lazy day just looking at the woods and doing little else.

How is October 21 - 25 “over Halloween”? And besides, they announced at the Rally this year this year that the rally would be moving to the fall next year. Personally, I think it’s a great idea, by late October the weather should be moderating and there’ll be almost zero chance of a tornado.

My trip to the 2025 Owner's Rally:

Ah yes, a bummer for the new owners if it’s the partial tilt out windows, I just assumed it would be the fully tilt out windows! A good reminder what someone once told me, assumption is the mother of all screw ups!

I heard the same, and an 8” tilt out would be reduced air flow vs existing the windows with cross ventilation. I really don’t have a dog in the fight and have not had any issues with my current windows which provide great cross ventilation. Just regular maintenance in keeping the tracks and weep holes clean and all is good. It will be interesting to see what supplier of tilt out windows the Oliver engineers roll with.

This is certainly true when there is a good breeze outside. When it’s still out, you can turn the fan on exhaust, just barely crack the window(s) where you want the airflow to get good ventilation. The fact that the bedside windows open on the rear side and the fan is front of beds it pulls air across the bed. A better breeze is felt if you sleep heads towards the kitchen/pantry.

The only important detail missing is exactly which model/manufacturer tilt out window Oliver will choose as a supplier. 🤔 The window you show appears to be a basic lexan non double pane style? My understanding is the new windows will be insulated, tinted glass, and double pane and hopefully up fitted with no see um screens. Then what sort of privacy shade will the new windows have? Lots of details to be worked out for sure. So for now it’s pretty much a wait and see. Hopefully for future owners they will fully tilt out.

Am I missing something, I believe with a fully tilt out window you will actually have much better cross ventilation vs the stock sliding windows, it boils down to size matters! The opening with my side windows fully open is approx. 15"x18" (only approx. half of it widthwise is open), wherass with a same frame size as current Olivers but fully tilt out window you will have the entire window opening of approx. 15"x46". VS

In my discussion with Scott Oliver while at the rally, the possible “retro fit” of the new double pane/insulated awning tilt out windows is something they are considering. (This will be expensive to retrofit if it can be done). Scott said that the engineering dept is working on it. The only concern I have is sacrificing the great cross ventilation of the existing windows which we really like. The tilt out windows have their pros and cons, but will also really limit cross ventilation. It will be interesting to see how this unfolds.

Good point rich.dev - your wish is my command.😃 Thanks for the suggestion. Bill

@topgun2, I can see this topic (Oliver switching to awning style windows in 2026) getting a lot of interest, maybe move these window posts to a new thread?

Nice, I will definitely be interested in switching if the window openings of the 2026 are the same as my 2023!

It was confirmed on the tour today that 2026 model Olivers will have awning style windows. Full details still being worked out and 2026 model details should available in the coming weeks.

I'm just going to purchase the whole shebang. I would like to stay married🤣

We found a great area up in the White Mountains of Arizona with the help of a couple retired cops. They were out turkey hunting and happened by us when we were deep in the woods and came to a crossroads. In both directions the signs read, "Not Suitable for RVs or Trailers." They said the road to the right was a bit rocky and the warnings are for when it rains or snows. We liked that the signs would keep most RVers away. Then they said, "Follow us and we'll take you to our marked campsite." Check the Campendium Map and compare our blue dot to the known campsites! Miles and hours of dirt between and dozens of campsites along the way. We'll keep our high country spot a secret for now and should be meeting some Oliver friends up there in July when the weather is perfect. However, when we left on Monday it was snowing and the daytime high was to be 42F. The campsite was at 8,920 ft and on the drive home we climbed a bit more and I snapped this compass shot at exactly 9,400 on AZ Hwy 273. It's amazing you can drive down a highway at this elevation in Arizona (common in CO of course) and see mountains above and lush meadows everywhere with streams and lakes.

We enjoyed the beautiful drive up from Albuquerque, and had a great hike the next day to the edge of the park and then some into the Cibola NF. You can only see edges of the mountain range from the campground. Most of the campsites are difficult. We backed in first and found our entrance would be on the wrong side and steep downhill. Then I drove in head first, unhitched and lifted the tongue a foot high to get level. We didn’t want to drive the truck anyway. Tonight we’re at Hannagan Meadows south of Alpine AZ at 9130 ft. it’s cold up here, will be high if 42F by Monday! Stopped to visit with these bull elks on the way. Wow!

Haven't heard of that. Here's a page showing how to "service" the rear jack that may help. In it there is mention of 3 allen set screws that hold the power head on the jack . Maybe those have backed off an the head has popped up? CS

And now with the same shower mixer as Mountainoliver... Mountainoliver, the check's in the mail! But... I don't know how to get anything delivered by the post office these days. 😉 So glad I didn't have to rip the caddy out again - sure made this addition easy!

Just lift the trailer with the jack and put a couple of jack stands under the frame near the wheels. Do your maintenance and then remove them.

I think it is unacceptable that OTT can not provide us with simple guidance for jack placement/use for 1) changing or rotating tires. 2) changing out flat tires. 3) doing routine wheel bearing maintenance. I am taking the trailer to a local shop next week to have the wheel bearings checked/repacked. I have owned my trailer #140 May 2016 and I am baffled that this issue has not been put to rest. I would hope that Jason would take 5 min and update the University regarding this issue. If I don't get some guidance from him, I am going to use some large rubber air bladders filled with helium. Putting them inside the trailer. Lastly. I love my Oliver trailer and consider it to be the best dang trailer I have owned. And I have owned a bunch and this is my last one.

I've reposted my question under the Thread Question for the Oliver Travel Trailer Factory???. I'm a big supporter of OTT and I'm not trying to be difficult, but I feel that this is an important question that needs a clear and concise answer. When I drop my trailer at an RV service center, I'd like to have a paper that I've printed off of the manual to hand to that center explaining how to lift the trailer for things like repacking the bearings, etc. I have included this and other questions on that thread, so hopefully, I will understand how to handle these situations soon. kountrykamper thanks for asking the question to start this thread. Hap

At this rate, by the end of the year Oliver will start denying that there are any jacks at all on the trailer.

@kountrykamper @hap I reached out to Jason Essary and here is what he said: First part is that on the Elite II we don’t have to worry about jack failure for the flat tire as you should not use the jack to raise the trailer. You would want to run the good tire up onto a block or special tire ramp to lift the other tire off the ground for easy changing. Jack spots. There aren’t any built in jack spots per se like you might find on a car or van with a special reinforced area for the jack. The best place would be to place the jack on the steel section of the subframe as close to the tire that needs to be lifted. DO NOT put the jack under the axle or leaf springs. Thanks, Jason

Use a hydraulic jack directly under the spring mount pad on the axle, with a large block or rubber pad on the road surface. If the ground is really soft, then you have to get creative. I carry a hilift jack habitually as well as the OEM mechanical jack in my TV. Plus one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-ORB-Off-Road-Base/dp/B00042KJQ4 I don’t expect to be able to use the hilift on the Ollie, though it would work quite well on the back bumper, it is more for extracting the truck. No matter how well you think things through and prepare by buying “stuff”, like pads, jacks, spare suspension parts, or an air compressor, one day you may get into a situation you can’t handle by yourself.... the idea is the reduce the odds of that happening as much as you can. John Davies Spokane WA

Today's update. After getting a mild runaround at Lippert, I was connected to a "CS" rep in Direct Sales Customer Service, from whom I learned the following: The Hehr manufacturing plant in Chesaning, MI, where at least some of the RV windows are made, is closing in the immediate future. Whether the windows used in our LE2 were made at this plant isn't 100% clear, but I think they were based on the discussion. Per the Lippert "CS" representative, that plant cannot provide spare parts, or any information on the parts used in the window, the window model number, or whether the plastic bits of interest are manufactured on-site or by an outside supplier. They don't give that information out - obviously it is top secret - but were unable to provide any rational explanation why. The Lippert "CS" representative was unwilling to provide a contact at the plant. The explicit suggestion was that I replace the window (!!!), which oh by the way might require modification before it would fit. The Lippert "CS" representative's position, on which they have been coached, was that window obsolescence in the RV industry was common practice and, implicitly, that I deal with it. I made clear that there were approximately 2000 Oliver travel trailer customers who were being stranded by Lippert. I'm not quite done on this path but the situation isn't looking promising right now. Oliver, if you are reading this, a phone call to Lippert might be in order. Tim

Bill, yes there are. The farm manager said that there’s so many that you hardly need bait!