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This change seems like a step backwards. I prefer the look and functionality of the old-style windows and blinds. We pass things through our windows often and enjoy the airflow and connection with the outdoors when inside and they are fully open. That valance, unfortunately, looks like something from 1995. Thumbs up, though, on the white belly band!

I just setup standby mode and I am sitting here watching youtube with zero buffering. 🤷‍♂️

For us, the advantage of double pane isn't temperature control, it's noise reduction. They really do help when the guy with the huge Bluetooth speaker sets up next to you. But the bigger problem for me is that those Lippert windows really don't move much air. We never really felt a breeze in our old trailer. That said, they're better in the rain. For functionality, I'd like to have just one swing out window for use on rainy days. I know some of the other fiberglass trailers do that with the rear window.

We were in Ouray last fall and were heading to Great sand dunes after that so we had the same decision to make. We had driven down to Silverton without the trailer and that was exciting enough. Woke up the day of departure and it was raining so 550 was a no go for us. Headed north back up through Montrose then 50 towards Gunnison. If there is even the slightest chance of rain I would avoid it.

Glad you are making progress on the brake issue. Also glad you were not injured in doing so. As shown in your picture, you chose not to use your on-board jacks as safety fail safes. Yes they can get in the way, but having them down can save your life. GJ

Sounds right. Just ordered a Starlink Router for the Mini this morning, after placing the Mini on standby mode at home, it works OK but getting too far away from the dish in the house slows down service even more. The Router should help that situation at home and camping.

According to the Lippert sales brochure those windows are "Available with single-glazed and dual-glazed panels." I hope Oliver is choosing double pane. Also, as I recall, there was a hack involving drilling out a rivet that would allow those windows to open further.

John, & @routlaw Rob, My understanding is that its a (Lippert) Bonded 3000 series glass window. David

@BoondockingAirstream it’s a shame that your tech did not show earlier this week, but that’s the state of responsibility since the “Greatest Generation” and us Baby-Boomers! 🤣 If you can drag that brakeless Oliver from Nevada to Prescott, I’d have your rig braking in less than 24 hours, promise! Find somebody who can read a multimeter and understands the 7-blade trailer connection and soon you should be “on the road again.”

I gotta try this! True most of the time for most of us? Then it’s worth twice $5/mo! 🤣 I love Elon when he’s not arguing with the President. When he is, our Tesla stock goes down, but today it's >$100 a share higher than when they were fire-bombing EVs at Tesla dealerships! ‘twas the time to buy! He’s got my $5/mo!!! 🤣

The one axle that has the bent brake backing plate must have really been hit hard! The backing plate on mine is at least 1/8 inch thick steel. With the strengthening ribs and flange it would take a lot to bend it which means the drum must have taken a heavy hit as well. The drum being cast iron could be cracked I wouldn’t use it and if the brake backing plate is tweaked at its mounting flange the shoes will never contact the drum squarely and you’ll always have braking issues with that assembly. You’re doing the right thing to send the entire mess back and get all new assemblies.

This change isn't costing everyone money... Those who are using Starlink for alarm monitoring of second homes are making out on this deal. Instead of paying $50 per month for low level roam they can just pause it and pay $5 instead.

A few Oliver showroom floor photos of the Lippert awning style windows installed on 26 YM Olivers. It’s my understanding from Oliver that these windows will allow for retro fit on existing Olivers. Pricing on the retro fit of all (5) windows has not been announced yet. 3” max opening. Black interior frame and pull down roller shade. Also note the new white belly band.

It appears that Starlink is going to charge a $5.00 monthly fee for roam plans that are paused based on the email that I received today. I’m not certain if it’s possible to opt out of the $5.00 standby mode.

Went to turn on the hot water this evening and the Truma AquaGo is throwing off an error code 26: "Circulation pump current consumption error - The current detector at the circulation pump has measured a current outside the permitted limits." I have seen a couple of posts about this particular error code but no definitive root cause. We are about to hit the road for a 2 week jaunt through the Carolina's so I am hoping we can resolve this one pronto but everything I have read makes it look like I need a Truma dealer. Anyone have any experience with this one? Thanks! Bob

I would prefer an induction stovetop with the lithium power packages...

Haha! Wishful thinking. 😄 typo corrected!

For those members who don’t do FB, here is recent pic of a few 26 YM interior updates from the Oliver FB page. I am seeing the fiber-granite sinks, a vent over the closet door where the pervious speaker use to be mounted. A new Bluetooth speaker, induction cook top, a texture wet bath wall, under cabinet switch lights, a new bath door, and the white belly band. 🇺🇸

@Steve Morris, sorry to hear about your issues. Knock on wood I haven't had any issues to date and just posted my install to this forum. On my Winnie Minnie I purchased the external antenna and attached it on top of the air conditioner shroud. You might try that. But mine works fine on the Ollie without it.

We haven’t needed our router yet. With the dish on the box on the tongue we get a strong signal. I’ve now got it on the truck tonneau cover, we’re under a lot of trees (Lake Tahoe, CA). Even with a narrow view of the sky it’s working well. My sophisticated mount. Sky view. There’s a bunch of satellites racing through that blue patch.

That's why I changed to a POE cable to the Mini, as several others here have done. Here in eastern US, trees are everywhere, and I might need to get the Mini 50-150 feet away to connect. But instead of Starlink's router, I've connected it to my Peplink cellular router, so the cell connection can kick in whenever there's a Starlink dropout.

We just replaced ours, 2 years before its expiration date, because of false alarms. It appears to have become hypersensitive and was alarming because of errant exhaust fumes coming from the Norcold fridge. 2 problems there. I sealed the large gap at the top of the lower fridge access panel with metal tape (discussed in another thread) and then I replaced the detector with a new one. I did the same as @John Dorrer, using Wago connectors to make the next replacement easier.

I already had. Nothing there. Maybe because I’ve never used pause since activating my account.

https://res.cloudinary.com/lci-cloudinary/image/upload/v1734451736/Design Team/Sell Sheets/Lippert_-_Sell_Sheet_-_3000_Series_Windows_OEM_-_2023002334-WEB.pdf Link for somewhat better description of these windows. I have mixed feelings about them myself. Not sure double pane is that big of a deal after years of use. Disappointed they only open 3 inches. The valance thing looks dorky. Always thought the chrome stuff looked tacky so an improvement with the white trim piece. Love the no maintenance of the windows though. The existing windows on the Oliver have always been the bane of ownership to me. Poorly designed and out of date.

Just did a speed test on standby mode. Uploaded this photo with Starlink on Standby mode.

Wow, did not expect that, started the standby mode earlier this week when StarLink set the email. Going to try ours out, too! Thanks,

In regard to this. Here is what I have done when I need to "clear" a Truma code. I have not had your code but in case it helps. 1) Open the panel to the heater outside. Turn switch to the middle or off position. Wait at least 30 seconds. Then turn it back on by flipping the switch up or down. The other option is reset and there are steps here for that. What is the reset function on the CP plus used for?

Bob, I think you’re wise to give Oliver an opportunity to tackle it. I hope they get you fixed up. Please post up what you learn as could really help another member should this issue arise again. Thanks!

@jd1923 Here is a link to what may help you with an answer on the used Super Duty you are looking at. You will likely need to register on the forum if you want to ask questions. Other than that lots of reading. I hope this helps! https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum30/ Open source says - The 2015 Ford Powerstroke is equipped with a 6.7L Powerstroke diesel engine and a 6R140 TorqShift heavy-duty 6-speed automatic transmission. As for the rear pumpkin, you would may want to call the owner and verify specs.

Looking at the side profile, they do not look to be double pane.

Hey Geoff. Great advice. The WH does not appear to run in any way, shape, or form so testing the pump would be my next step. I am about 1 year and a couple weeks since our purchase, but I made a call to Oliver and they actually have a pump in stock. Since I am about 1.5 hours away I am going to make that drive and let them tackle it. I did speak to several other Truma authorized service centers, none of whom have parts and frankly, none of them inspired confidence in their ability to diagnose/fix the issue. I am hoping the Oliver folks will let me watch over their shoulder because I want to be a little more versed in the Aquago. By the way, it looks like the Aquago warranty is 2 years according to this. https://support.olivertraveltrailers.com/portal/en/kb/articles/truma-aquago-water-heater But eventually I will be doing this work on my own so I am book marking your post and hoping I never have to use it. 🙂 Thanks again! Bob

Not the Euro-style I was expecting. We had these on a previous trailer. Not much airflow. I wouldn't replace all my windows with these but might do just the one over the dinette for airflow on rainy days. Are they double pane?

Have not studied about the difference in manufacturer's engine brakes, but where you're located an engine brake would be nice! We used to install Cummins in several different industrial applications, nice engines. From what I understand the Ford 6.7L diesel works great towing an Ollie.

Y'all might find this article interesting. It appears Ford added the Exhaust Brake with the release of the 6.7L Power Stroke starting in 2011, with Dodge and GM +/- close in time. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1490785-2015-exhaust-brake.html Ford guys online admitting the Ram having the better exhaust brake because the Cummins engine builds better back-pressure than the Power Stroke. I found this article because there is a very clean/reasonable 2015 Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.7L Power Stroke listed 4-Sale locally (grandpa passed only 130K miles). It's white with Super Cab... Hmmm? Anybody know what trans (and # gears) would be on the 2015 Power Stroke?

Hey Bob, If you’re pressed for time and it doesn’t re-set, then you might be better off trying to fix it yourself because Truma service could be inconvienient, untimely and expensive. I’d check for a degraded pump, or a debris jam thats causing excessive current draw as the error code indicates. The year warranty is probably expired so it could be worth a try. If the WH operates at all before the error code shuts it down, then listen for unusual pump noise and/or measure the current draw. It normally runs just long enough to fill the reserve tank with hot water, and a DC clamp-on amp probe can be used to measure the current from the front panel. AC/DC amp probes are readily available and you can use the wiring schematic in the Truma Manuel to identify the pump’s wires where they enter the control board in front. Just separate one of the pump wires from the bundle, and clamp the probe over it. The pump is rated to draw less than 2.5 amps when pumping. If the error code is preventing it from running, then you'll have to remove the WH and take the pump out for testing. It takes a little time but it’s not difficult. Drain it through the front flip down drain before disconnecting the plumbing. Disconnect the propane line and unplug the control wire from inside the unit, cut the DC power at the splice in the back by the water connections. Carefully use a heat gun, spray solvent such as Goo Be Gone, and plastic putty knife to break the outside seal, and have some butyl tape and outdoor caulking on hand to reinstall it. Once out, connect a standard 1/2" NPT residential faucet hose to the pump's intake, prime it, and put the other end in a bucket of water. Connect it to a 12V battery with jumper cables and use stiff wire or paper clips to connect to the pumps plug. It should pump with good pressure and <2.5 amps. If the pump is okay, then unfortunately you're back to control board issues and probably going to the Truma dealer for diagnostics. But you will only be out of your own time for trying. The pumps are pricey at around $250 when I last checked. Only buy one from a reputable dealer because I saw a fake site advertising them for $55. I hope this helps! Good luck! Geoff

max of 3 inches? Ouch, that does not seem like a lot of airflow.

Lower Lehman is closed. Lots of work going on there. I think Wheeler Peak is also closed.

I plug the SL into the Jackery for 110 power. Here I have the dish sitting on aluminum box on the tongue and Wi-Fi is plenty strong both inside the trailer and behind the trailer where we’re sitting. I have the mini router but haven’t needed it yet. Heading to Lake Tahoe today.

Ron, you mean Demonic Penguin? 😄 That’s what I use to call that loud jet engine…lol. Sold my old Demonic to a guy with a food truck for $600 after hauling it back from Oliver post Truma install.

That’s terrible. Hopefully they will take extra care with the next shipment. Free shipping for your troubles? Can’t hurt to ask.

Understood, I never had a leak issue with my Dometic either nor too concerned about being “dead level”. Some however, have not been as lucky!

3 years in and zero issues with the Truma Aventa condensate lines clogging here. We just make sure that our trailer is dead level and all is good. 😊 As I recall I never had issues with the “Demonic AC” either. 🤔

This may be of concern to some, but we no longer have to worry about clogged condensate drain lines or drip pans causing leaks inside our units, which both Dometic and Truma owners have experienced. After a year of use, I find no issue with the roof runoff.

Agree, but understand the owner manuals are universal and state that some units may not have all of the features described. For example: “X-FAN function is only available on some models.” Furthermore, typical air conditioning is the Cool Mode setting wherein the compressor will regularly cycle to maintain a desired temperature and the supply fan runs continuously, which causes humidity spikes when the compressor shuts down periodically. In Dry Mode the compressor runs continuously for the sole purpose of condensing moisture-laden air to reduce humidity. Yes, this mode will chill the air much like Cool Mode, but since the compressor is set to run for a prolonged period the temp and humidity will continue to drop to such a point that it exceeds its function and thus, should then be turned off and the unit switched back to Cool Mode. Before Cielo, I had to use the Dry Mode to buffer occasional humidity spikes during the day, but when asleep at night I would often wakeup to extreme humidity levels at morning. The Cileo’s ‘Comfy Mode’ solved these dreaded humidity occurrences, both day and night!

If not damaged beyond repair, ask for a significant price reduction/refund and make do. Just say’n!

Yessir, I did read through that. I do need to better understand what it means to shut the unit down completely. I will give that a try before calling Truma. Can you provide any guidance around achieving a "complete" shutdown? Thanks, Bob

Bob, Here is an older thread that may help. Have you tried shutting the unit down completely? Sometimes this will allow the unit to reset itself. If that does not work I would contact Truma. You may need a new circuit board from what I have read in the thread below.

I don’t mind supporting the infrastructure at that amount, which is likely their intention. They haven’t disclosed at what speed they will limit speed to. Unlimited data at low speed, depending upon the speed, may not be all that useful. AT&T did that to our cellular plan which rendered it virtually useless.

@Galway Girl I think the schematic indicates that the breakaway switch is on the hot side of the of the 20A auto resetting breaker, meaning that the breakaway switch is alway hot and the black 20A breaker services the black charge wire. But according to my wife, I was wrong yesterday, so that may apply to today as well! Mossey

Keep in mind, flat hoses and other compact hoses recommended do not work for filling the fresh tank via the boondocking port. Something we do often, filling from our extra 35-gal fresh tank in the pickup bed. When pulling water by suction you need a rigid hose, one that will NOT shrink or flatten. We go with the standard Camco hose. 35 ft is what's needed to get from our truck to the boondocking inlet when hitched. I had a 25' hose so purchased a 10' hose which is great alone when we have water hookup at a campground. They are firm and many complain about rolling them up. I roll in big loops and it fits in the Oliver Trunk and unwinds nicely. Good reviews on this Amazon item: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-TastePURE-Heavy-Duty-Construction-22843/dp/B004VHXS20/?th=1