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On our way to the rally. 4 stops so far Plymouth Wa COE Wallowa Lake SP OR Farewell Bend Rec Area OR Three Island Crossing SP -Glenns Ferry ID Roses Great Grandpa was a wagon master for 6 crossings here on the Oregon Trail before stopping in Idaho as a settler.

I've always hated the step down wet bolts. After installing a couple of dozen sets of springs using these, I will attest that easier installation is NOT the reason. They are a PIA to get that second shoulder to slip into the far side of the hangers. @Boudicca908 is delivering a complete set of new Alcan hardware to me at the Rally. Anyone who wants to see how this is done is welcome to come and watch (or help) as I plan to install them during the Rally.

Attached article on building a solar add on for the Olivef with specific instructions on the zamp connection polarity. https://4-ever-hitched.com/blog-articles/f/here-comes-the-sun?blogcategory=Electrical+Upgrades

I've been told by VERY reliable sources that a "new" model Ollie (with a lower MSRP) will be introduced at the upcoming Owner's Rally. That's about all of the information I have. Bill

In 2023 (I assume it was the same in 2022) I purchased the optional 230-watt Zamp portable panel from Oliver with the trailer to add to my two 200W panels on the roof. I think 2023 was the last year they offered this panel and I believe Zamp moved toward smaller panels. The 230W suitcase is a bit of a beast to lug around, so I don't use it all the time. Of course, this plugs into the side port that you mention. Interestingly, because you can direct the portable panel toward the sun, it will often supply as many watts as the two roof top panels combined.

You can safely put a maximum of 200 watts into the auxiliary Zamp solar port. It is polarity wired for a Zamp solar controller which is opposite of some controllers, so verify polarity of your panel and controller before plugging it in. Polarity reversing adapters are available for the Zamp port if needed. Your 400 watt panel would need a 30/40 amp controller, larger wiring, and a 30-40 amp fuse. Check panel rating plate and ask google to be sure.

I have a Zamp port on the street side of my 2021 model near the battery box. It’s rated for 20A max, but is equipped with a 10A blade fuse inside the trailer, which is a good match for my 140W portable Zamp panels. I have 340W panels on the roof. I’m not sure what the 2022 models have for side ports.

Our previous Tundra's name was Stan 🙃, photo taken at W. Kerr Scott Dam and Reservoir,

That's just funny "Where is Ollie" I just joined your forum and my real first name is Ollie. haha

Wyoming sunsets are glorious.

I have to work on the road and the dinette is taken over by a piano keyboard. Most of my work on the iPad but I need to use a laptop which is on the bed, but cable and peripheral management is a pain, but I found a small mod, hide the electronics under the bed with a Froli system street side bed Turns out typical power supplies and smaller electronics like SSD’s and a Thunderbolt hub you see here fit perfectly under the Froli springs. Add in the anti-dew matting and there’s plenty of airflow, plus it keeps your bed warm 😅 The Froli’s lift the bed up a good amount, it was so low before as to be somewhat claustrophobic. With the matting it doesn’t add much except oddly makes it a bit firmer, which is good with these overly squishy mattresses IMO. Anyhow in the lower right is a small power strip, so all that emerges is a plug to the nearby socket. Two cables (power and thunderbolt) tuck next to the mattress, add in a lap table and it can instantly be setup to work. I was hiding this stuff in the battery cubby but its was messy with cables snaking out.

I don't *think* the 2022 models had the Victron charge controller yet. Our early 2023 was supposedly the first year they became standard equipment, but some 2022 models had 2023 components early. When I was first investigating upgrades, I considered moving the external solar port wires over to the inbuilt charge controller. Then run the two solar arrays in parallel. The first obstacle, was of course the amperage/voltage limitations of the charge controller. I'd need to swap to a larger model to get what I wanted. But more importantly, and something I was not aware of, is that the 2023 rooftop panels are 400W at a rated 24V DC, not 12V. And when I checked Victron's site for information, I learned that mixing panel voltages causes the charge controller to default to the lower voltage. So the 24V 400W panels would be operating at 12V 400W instead. As have many others here, I elected to temporarily build a portable box with an appropriately sized Victron charge controller, fuse, etc., and plug that into the external solar port. My intention is to eventually replace the SAE type port with an Anderson plug, and run a second internal charge controller, allowing me to use the full output of my 400W 24V DC rooftop panels, and my three 200W 12V DC portable panels.

Our original Furrion solar port was rated for 10 amps. It was OK with one 100W panel, but did not have enough rated capacity to handle two 100W solar suitcases. Decided to modify the original Furrion 10A solar port to handle 20 amps by installing a Zamp 20 amp port in the existing Furrion port. Should have used the Zamp port to start with. Modified Furrion solar port 20 amps:

I saw that mentioned in another post. Seems I will need to schedule time to drive down to see this new Oliver. Lower price - seems counter to today's world. If I were to design a small Ollie, based upon my owner experience, I doubt it would be cheaper.

This is correct in that you will need an additional solar charger. It is not recommended to have one controller for panels of different makes and wattage and adding 400W is just too much for your OEM controller. We run the Renogy 400W suitcase and added a Victron 30A MPPT SC. The new SC should be very close to your batteries, connected with heavy gauge wire. We used 8 AWG 1-2 foot length to the +/- buses. Wire from your suitcase to the SC can be light. 12 AWG is required for 400W. I used 10 AWG since Lowes had a crazy sale on some at the time. Wire costs a lot today, but labor hours are worse when hiring a solar installer. It's not a difficult installation. I made my own cables for cost savings, but you can buy any kind of cable with custom premade terminals here: https://powerwerx.com/wire-cable

You TEASE YOU!.... seriously.. you need to stop that.

From a different forum where I posted an estimation of towing costs, for the Oliver of EV versus Diesel, using today’s prices. The Unit Cost is the averaged national average for both, and of course while fuel costs are highly variable, charging base cost doesn’t change, except there are various discounts. For example GM keeps giving me $50 free charging credits, they run sales (Ionna ran a Labor Day sale of something like 20 cents/kWh), but AFAIK fuel never goes on sale. Also this is just for towing trips, when at home of course you’ll charge off whatever your rate it, basically free for me with lots of solar. Metric Diesel Truck Electric Truck Baseline Efficiency (Unladen) ~18.0 MPG ~2.0 miles / kWh Efficiency with 40% Loss 10.8 MPG 1.2 miles / kWh Total Energy Required 370.4 gallons 3,333.3 kWh Assigned Unit Cost $6.00 / gallon $0.40 / kWh Total 4,000-Mile Cost $2,222.22 $1,333.33

Welcome! Soon we need to find Ollie in an Ollie! 😎

We were asked in another thread or maybe pages back on this one, "What would we do differently?" (re Alcan) My answer is what Bob ended up doing. Instead of buying new EZ Flex separately I would have bought the full installation set including the Dexter shackles and wet bolts, and purchase only leaf springs and U-bolts from Alcan. (Bob answered this in another way.) The 1/2" nut on the 9/16" bolt creates the shoulder. Bob mentioned 40 ft-lbs that held and allowed for greasing. The 40 ft-lbs is torqued against the shoulder, creating a standard spacing for the leaf springs. There is no real force on the 1/2" nuts, they just hold the spacing constant. Oh yes the, 1/4" steel plate hangers on the frame do get pulled in, actually bend some from the torque of the 9/16" bolt. Try 80 ft-lbs on these bolts without the leaf installed between and you will clearly see them bend (but not a good idea to try). The shoulder bolts are the better design and perhaps after another 20K miles on the Oliver, I may purchase a new set. For now, instead of 80 ft-lbs on the end bolts, I went with 64. And instead of 65 on the inner wet bolts on the EZ Flex, I went with 52 ft-lbs. If you divide my numbers by Alcan's, you'll see I'm torquing to 80% of the Alcan recommendation (NOT the U-bolts, keep them at 90). I found the EZ Flex will still appear to hang when lifted but will not when weight loaded. Watch each axle both sides going slowly over some speed bumps in you neighborhood. If all is good, you should see the tires travel smoothly up and down. When I grease there's always one bolt on each side that must be loosened to accept grease, just one bolt but not all. Perhaps my 80% take is helping. I am reporting what I have done on our Oliver based on my feelings. Proceed with caution, make your own decisions in doing your work. I am NOT making recommendations for anybody else. With this warning, I accept no legal liabilities. I also use the stabilizer jacks to lift our hull. The manufacturer OTT does not recommend this practice.

You're welcome, Ron. Ours was too and there are a few reasons... The pull cable is very short and it turns 90 degrees. It's in an awkward place to pull, whether standing outside the bathroom, sitting on the can or wherever, you can't get a straight pull! And a gunked up waste valve blade will make it worse. You can remove the waste valve, clean and lube the blade, lube the cable and it could help. You can't change the 90 degree cable run and the awkward location of the pull handle. We love the new electric one! Without the cable, push the button and I can hear it open or close in just a second! Check my thread linked above if interested.

Make sure that protection starts with a FOUR....

We don't have Oliver's factory solar system and inverter. When away from shore power, use a similar switch mounted in Ollie's battery box with our system. Installed two Epoch 105AH lithium batteries, using up to 2 solar suitcase panels for charging or gen-set on poor solar days. Stole @Snackchaser ideal (Thanks Geoff) converting the TV cable inlet to the Starlink Mini power outlet using a 12V/24V to 48V step up DC to DC converter. Need to install a small interior switch so turning the system on/off can be done from inside Ollie, too.

Box Creek This is one of my favorites! It's a decommissioned Forest Service campground with pit toilet, non-potable water and no dump. Also, it is free. Box Creek is located off Buffalo Valley Road, West of Moran Junction, WY. PM me for GPS. Note that the campground was decommissioned due to bear activity. Even though I've only observed one black bear in camp I never venture outside the Oliver without some type of protection.

Trail Lake Road, East of Dubois, WY Note that this is a free boondocking site with decent pit toilet but no dump or water (other than what is in the lake/stream.

Horse Creek, north of Dubois, WY

The Pines of Kabetogama! The other Oliver! Charlie 1607 2025 LEII 2021 Landcruiser 200

The Pines of Kabetogama, Kabetogama MN. We were surprised to see another Oliver here when we pulled in. Bill 313

I have a two Honda generator setup however in recent years I've just brought one when traveling to save space and weight. I have charged the batteries using the single Honda occasionally but it does obviously take longer (than if two Hondas are paired) and the Honda runs flat out. I do limit the Xantrex charge current. I believe that Honda now offers a single generator higher current solution that isn't too much bigger or too much heavier. If I were to do it these days I'd probably do that.

Press and hold the OK button until it beeps. The display will show the Setting # on the left and its value on the right. Click the Up button until you reach setting 28, then press OK. The value will flash. Use the Up button to change the value (it maxes out at 50, then starts over again). Click OK to confirm the new value. Press and hold ESC to exit settings. (BE CAREFUL NOT TO ACCIDENTLY CHANGE ANY OTHER SETTINGS.)

does your OE2 have the progressive dynamics converter (charger)? if so you can charge it with a single Honda 2000 or 2200 eu inverter charger. No need to parallel two of them. those generators will also run your a/c, but not much else. you need to be sure to turn OFF the electrical switch on your hot water heater and not be on AC or DC for your refer if it is a three way. GJ

IMHO, when in storage pumping tire pressure up to the max limit will help to eliminate flat spots but your PSI numbers are correct for towing. On classic cars I had, I’d put them up on jack stands. For the Oliver, just use your leveler jacks to take most the weight off the tires. If you visit your storage monthly, get your tires off the ground with the leveler jacks and give the tires 1/4 turn.

I can neither agree or disagree with your theory or info. There are a lot of engineering factors that go into making the best ride possible and I am not an Engineer let alone a mechanical engineer with Dynamics and materials theory. If the theory is correct, then their are more questions : 1. According the the tire manufacture info I believe that the pressures should be 45 PSI due to the weight of the trailer. I try to run between 45-50. I use to run around 55psi more of a safety factor in my mind since I do't use TPS system. I would think the stiffer tire would create less heat, but could also cause uneven wear. I just changed the tire this year, due to age and not wear, 25K miles. I old set didn't show any abnormal wear and still looked almost like new My tires also only see the sun 60-80 days of sun shine a year. When in storage my tires are on concrete, I am planing on putting the Oli on Jack stands and getting most of the pressure off of the tire. I was reading that with large vehicles sitting in one spot for long periods it is hard on the tire, causing flat spots in the belts. 2. The Ez-flex probably needs to move as it was designed to move freely. I don't know what is the latest from Alcan for the torque specs for the wet bolts. But the way the Dexter bolts are made to allow Fairly free movement of the Ez-flex coupling. 3. The leafs. We know that the Dexter 4 leaf was under sprung in their design. The next question would be is Alcan 5-leaf the proper leaf spring, or would it be the Alcan 4-leaf or the Dexter 2200 lbs. I personally have the Alcan 5-leaf and like the ride. there is still movement but it minimal. Last Item: I know this is your mod thread, but should this be posted in the mammoth thread on leaf spring that might get more attention? This could end up causing several more pages of posts.