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This video is of the B52, B1 and B2 bombers that flew over RayJay before the Buccaneers Super Bowl 55 victory. And if you add all of B's up you get 55. Somebody had their thinking caps on when they put the fly over together. Watch the left side of the picture for the B1 and B2. They were blocked by the trees. The B52 flew right over the house. Mossey 20210207_182926.mp4

I rotate all five, every 5000 miles approximately. Spare to LF, LF to LR, LR to RF, RF to RR, RR to Spare....Because I can - it is what I do with all my vehicles, unless they have directional tread snow tires. I pull them off, pressure wash and inspect the back (inside) for tire cuts or rim damage, look for and remove any metal objects from the tread, clean and wax the wheels, on both sides. My trailer is normally indoors out of the sun, so weather damage is absolutely minimal, I doubt if I will have to replace them due to that reason. Tandem trailers do indeed wear the tread fast, whenever you do tight turns on pavement. My driveway gets full of rubber stripes by the end of summer. I probably would not bother with an LE1 because that wear does not happen, but you still need to look at the hidden areas for problems. Go to a boat launch sometime, watch for a guy with a heavily loaded triple axle trailer doing tight turns before putting the boat into the water. The front and rear axles slide almost sideways! It is more than a little scary to see. .John Davies Spokane WA

For anyone interested here are some pictures of my new diamondback SE cover and crossbin 13 installed on a GMC Sierra 2500.

I ran across this stunning one owner, garage kept F550 with a factory installed 11 foot flatbed. I think it would probably tow three Ollies without sweating, but OTH you could remove your LE1 hull and bolt it down to the truck bed. If you also removed the headache rack, it would stick out the back perhaps 2 feet, but it would be pretty cool IMHO. Put a big horizontal propane bottle underneath the bed, along with a lot of extra water tanks and storage. No more worries about hitching up.... I recall seeing an Elite 1 that was added to a longer commercial Mitsubishi FUSO bed. It looked bizarre, but this truck would definitely work for me. 2017 Ford F-550 Lariat Powerstroke Diesel Flatbed 4WD - $65,000 John Davies Spokane WA

Dan, Cover locking mechanism:

Tandems do indeed wear tires. They do not simply roll along... the further the distance between axles, the worse the effect. Semi trucks really have issues, and they can literal pop a tire off the rim if they encounter a low curb. Here is a double axle RV turning hard. Trailer axle and tire flex while turning John Davies Spokane WA

I have never been a supporter or trailer tire rotation, as we usually do on a motor vehicle. Tire balance is necessary I believe for several reasons. The primary reason to rotate is to maintain equal tire wear, so they all wear the same. The big contributors to tire wear are driving force (the power transferred to the wheels to push the vehicle), turning and cornering (front wheels where wear is caused by turning right or left), and tire load (weight distribution). Most tires on a trailer will “age” out of use long before they ever wear out the tire tread. Since a trailer tire see’s little of these main contributors, there is really little need to rotate on a scheduled basis. I do rotate when the wheels are removed for maintenance, but never rotate just for the sake of rotating. Tire pressure and tire balance are most critical for tire longevity. I do believe the correct pressure is most critical as heat is the biggest cause of tire failure. I have also found that tires with higher pressure are more resistant to picking up nails, screws etc. I have owned many motorcycles over the past 55 years, and driven them many thousands of miles. Over all those miles I experienced tire punctures most from tires that were at lower pressures (but still within spec’s). This has been confirmed with fellow riders. Heat is the big problem in tire failure. The greater your load the more heat you generate....tire pressure can compensate for that. I have found that a small handheld infrared heat thermometer to be extremely handy for quick side of the road checks...a big plus being you can quickly and easily check not only the tire, but the wheel bearing. Picking up a higher temp reading on one bearing quickly tells you of a potential problem waiting to occur. Steve R.

I spoke with Jason Essary about the tire/wheel combo during my late 2018 LEII pre delivery inspection. He commented that they obtain the assemblies balanced, nitrogen filled, and inflated to 80 psi from their vendor. Further, that RVIA required them to specify 80 psi on the loading label. I suspect OTT mfg doesn't ever put a tire gauge on them.

A fairly good article on whether to balance or not. The article does point out the challenges to keep trailer wheels balanced. It also talks about tires aging out before the benefit of balancing tires might ever be realized. Before hooking up your Ollie and running out to your local tire shop it might be worth a call to see if they can perform a balance on your particular wheel. There are adapters needed for trailer wheels, some shops carry and some don’t. I did check with my local Discount Tire Store and yes, they will balance a trailer tire @$10 per tire. Likely $40 well spent. An interesting read. https://www.natm.com/blog/trailer-tires-to-balance-or-not-to-balance

Tire pressure, and other stuff- I think that Oliver delivers the trailer at 80 psi because that is industry recommendation, assuming that the trailer might have a maximum load, which might need the maximum psi. It is up to us to make an educated decision as to how to operate our equipment, and to listen to industry and user experts. How many of us follow the manufacturer's recomendations on anything without evaluating the purpose if the manual makes confusing or misleading statements? Other delivery issues do not have such a justification. While my main job was being a firefighter, I have always had a second job/business/career. Customer service, with the fire department and for my self-employed businesses was critical for repeat business and customer satisfaction. I had a two-way radio business. I tested every radio prior to delivery. I stayed up all night, literally, for a delivery of more than 300 radios I had to make. I could not claim that it was the radio manufacturer that was the cause of a problem. It was my reputation and responsiblity for the radio to work. When I took in a radio for repair, I would replace small broken items, do a thorough cleaning, and even repaint dial markings as part of my regular service. I retired from the fire department 6 years ago, but have continued to work doing fire origin and cause investigations and other failure analyses. I perform the duties of a forensic engineer. My written reports are what the client, and subsequent lawyers and others, use to evaulate me and the quality of my work. I cannot have misspellings, typos, grammatical errors, formating errors, poor photographs, etc. I pay people to review my work, to make sure that everything is right, then I review it again. And this is not safety stuff. So not only do I have issues from a legal viewpoint, as a person who conducts failure analyses, but to allow a trailer to leave the dealership with potential life safety issues is poor customer service and potential legal trouble. There is no excuse for allowing a trailer to have no brakes for 200 miles assuming that the brakes will self adjust, and nothing will happen within the first 200 miles when driven by a person who possibly has towed nothing in their life. Or brake wires that are not connected. Or a door that comes open while driving. Or a door that cannot be opened, with people inside or outside. Or a power cord plug that falls out, or worse, only comes out of the receptacle part way, creating a high resistive connection that results in a fire. Or glue on gel coat that is nearly impossible to remove. Or improperly finished gel coat. Or other issues. It's customer service. It's quality control. It's public relations. It is reputation. Through my research, I have bought a decent trailer. It has a layout that I like. Through the forum and other sites, I have learned about potential issues at delivery, and other problems that may occur during the first few months of ownership. Design and construction seem to be quality. However, if it were my company, which it isn't, I would take a few hours prior to delivery to operate all appliances and equipment, tow it for at least four or five miles to make sure that the brakes work, and other aspects of the axle work. I also have a very small ham radio business. Industry standard, for the highest quality electronic equipment, is to operate, or at least power up, each piece of equipment prior to delivery. I'm still looking forward to delivery on St. Patrick's Day. I plan to stay two nights at Crockett for an extended shake down. I don't expect to have any problems, but I need to verify that everything works. And it was a good day for old guys. John

If you want to visit an Oliver, the NOT a rally (covid) is happening at Lake Guntersville SP in Guntersville, Alabama, May 13-16. The details are here in the forum under Camping, 2021 NOT a rally. There are about 20 people registered. It will be my first time with my new trailer I will pick up in March. Everyone will be showing off their trailer. John

Obligatory...

Just why is it that at my age the words, "age for replacement", make me nervous? Anyway, point well taken but given how difficult it is to "search" for things, keeping even related issues separated can make it easier to find them again in the future. Sure would be nice to lump all things related together - TIRES for instance to include the things you mention plus brand, size, etc. but if anyone is searching for any one of these it just might be buried. Bill

This is a LOCKED thread. I wanted to put all my links in one spot so that they are easy for folks to find. Search remains a real problem with this forum! This thread does not allow comments. If you have questions, find a dead link or just want to talk, you can comment on the appropriate thread, or start a new thread or just Message me. I will add to this page as I start new threads, so hopefully it will continue to be a good up-to-date reference. NEWEST POSTS ARE AT THE TOP. I am not going to bother to alphabetize them, LOL. I put a link to this page in my signature, so you can get here directly from any of my comments. 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I have noticed a little confusion here and there, I wanted to post this for reference. One thing to note is this: The solar PV system is new or being used for the first time. The credit can only be claimed on the “original installation” of the solar equipment. So you can't claim it when you swap out failed AGMs, or add a new panel onto the roof, or change the controller. NEW Ollie customers only. Darn it.... IRS Solar Tax Credit FAQ John Davies Spokane WA

I can only comment on my personal experiences. I have the keyless entry - never had an issue - the faceplate cracked, and was replaced. Later the thing had locked itself - I was like - What!!!!. So I key in code - no problem. Same thing happened on anther day - What the heck. A few months later - I was fussing about in the truck - in the glove box - where the Oliver keyless pendant is stored - along with other keys - and I hear the Oliver keyless lock engage - from 150' away... What??? So indeed - the door was locked. Now the remote is stored appropriately. I get the comments that Oliver positioning may affect the door frame positioning. And perhaps makes the latch a little sticky - but not to the point it won't open - at least from what I've seen, but then- I wasn't there. And if it initially opened and latched smoothly - and then it won't open - every time - a visual of the latch will quickly tell you the problem - but if it is itinerant - call Ghostbusters. But only after you have done your homework - or followed a few of the suggestions of the previous posters. Another Crusty Old guy in training. RB

Sometimes I can close my door with little to no effort. Sometimes I have to lean in to it get it shut. So, what is the difference? Is it a production or safety issue when I have to lean into the door and not a production or safety issue when I don’t? Or, maybe it is an issue of leveling and the natural twist and flex depending on how the wheels are adapting to unlevel ground or if I have one side up on legos to get level? If you don’t hear the click when you shut the door and you don’t engage the deadbolt don’t jump on the freeway. Checklists are your friend. Door shut? Deadbolt engaged? Maybe I spent way to long in the Army but that is how we minimize potential safety issues. Mike

Bill, that looks like the same site we were in last week, B03. Glad your pickup and trip home went well. We’re in Lake Livingston State Park north of Houston but should be home Wednesday or Thursday. Looks like some cold weather coming in. Mike

I just replaced my tires after 5 years and 60K miles. They had plenty of tread on all of them. Had some small cracks appearing so went ahead and put on new tires. As long as the tread wear appears pretty even on the tires I won’t be rotating. Mike

It is possible that a tire and wheel can be in balance without adding any weights. If the tire is match-mounted to the rim, whereby the lightest spot of the tire is aligned with the heaviest spot of the rim (usually the valve stem), a modern quality tire could very well be within a 1/2 ounce of being out of balance. In this situation, no added weight would be necessary to achieve an acceptable static (ie: single plane) balance. A dynamic, two plane, balance is rarely necessary for tires with an aspect ratio of 75 or greater especially on trailer applications. Any quality installer will as a matter of course perform match mounting in order to minimize added weight. These same quality installers with also always use a pin plate balancer adapter no matter the wheel type and/or application. This is the only way to insure a wheel assembly is mounted true on the balancer shaft. Before calling out Oliver, another point worth mentioning is that the wheel style currently (2020-up) being used on the LEs may not allow for clip-on weights. For these, stick-on strip weights would be necessary and may not be as visible to the untrained eye. If present, they would be positioned on the rim, near the centerline, and should be visible looking through the spoke openings.

All good advice - I have more experience with the right side of the road hazard than I wish. Spot on comments. I purchased a clone tire wheel - at Oliver purchase. I rotate front to back, back to spare and spare spare, Spare to front - and spare spare to front. 6 tire rotation. Can't recall - but I believe I kept rt on rt, Left on left, marked the tires appropriately. I believe I researched rotation, and got mixed information. Rotated at approx 8k. Would have to go look in the log to verify. Tires look very good. If I don't get busy - they will age out before they wear out.

I knew they would be flying for the SB and I also knew they were practicing the stadium flyover on Friday evening. I was feeding the dogs Friday when I heard them coming. So I ran out to the back yard just as they cleared the roof line and I didn’t ave my phone. They were all in clear view and at a lower altitude on the Friday pass. I hoped they would be coming by after the National Anthem before the SB, so I was waiting when they came by. I believe they were flying home last night. One was from Missouri, one from Utah and the other was from Minot, ND. Mossey

Hull number 208, 2017. Wheels were not balanced but I requested that they be balanced during my pickup inspection. I guess technically they were balanced when the trailer actually left the factory!

The way this poll is constructed makes our answers a little ambiguous. Oliver has not always balanced the tires on their trailers. The tires that are currently being installed arrive at the factory already balanced, but the poll provides us with no way for one to tell if the trailer was delivered prior to or after Oliver started providing this needed task. I would suggest adding the hull number or, at least, the year of production. Out of curiosity, what year/hull number do you own?

Bill - That 13% you cite is very indicative of your front not being raised when dumping. Unless there is a long line at the dump station, I always raise the front during this process. Not only does this help in achieving a "full" dump but it also helps increase the velocity of the liquid during the dump which helps move "things" along. Great to hear that your towing experience is going well. Olivers are certainly easy to tow. Strange that the center cap on the wheel should crack. Do you recall hitting it? A quick call to Service will have a new one on its way in no time. Bill

Welcome to the Oliver family! I too am playing the delivery waiting game. Our delivery is in late October. The suggestions made in this thread are all excellent. May I also endorse both the Oliver University and studying the content of this forum. The people and expertise here are excellent! Enjoy the journey! Carl

Bill, by design the tanks are very low and long, and the openings are toward the back, so having the tongue raised a few inches helps with getting all the fluid out. John Davies Spokane WA

My (2021 Elite 1) tires appear to be balanced. They have the weights on the inside of the rim. It appears that Oliver does recommend balancing our tires. From the Owners Manual: 1.5.6. TIRE BALANCE AND WHEEL ALIGNMENT: To avoid vibration or shaking of the vehicle when a tire rotates, the tire must be properly balanced. This balance is achieved by positioning weights on the wheel to counterbalance heavy spots on the wheel-and-tire assembly.

That is excellent advice. Those are the tires that tend to drag on concrete curbs if you are parallel parking on a city street, and they often get hit harder by potholes or by taking turns too tight, since it is harder for the driver to see them. And nasty debris tends to get tossed toward the right side of any road and accumulate there; whenever I experience a flat it often happens on that side. The front tire will flip up a nail or screw, and it stabs into the next tire behind. This is why carefully inspecting the entire tread is important. If you find it soon enough, a short screw can be pried out before the head wears off and it gets driven through the plies by road forces. At that point you have a leak and the tire will have to get patched inside, and hopefully it will be repairable. If it is too close to the sidewall, the shop may refuse to do it. I have extracted many little screws or nails over the years, those usually are picked up around areas where lots of new houses are being built. The contractors let them spill out of their trucks🙄 and I try hard to not drive on those streets. They are deadly for bike tires too. A contractor usually won’t bother to pick stuff up if he drops it in the dirt in the street! When my house was completed, I bought a shop floor bar magnet and pushed it around the foundation many times. I collected several pounds of screws, nails and steel clips John Davies Spokane WA

Whether or not anyone decides on rotating tires of either Oliver they should keep an eye particularly on those passenger side tires. And this is particularly so if you tend to drive on a lot of roads that have a high "crown" or tend to overload the passenger side/curbside of the trailer. Both these situations tend to put added weight on those curbside tires. In addition, many roads have "issues" with that curbside lane or track which causes more wear on these tires. Bill p.s. of course the same thing applies to your TV too.

I'll check around to see who can balance a trailer wheel. I agree on the $40 well spent. I'm definitely doing it to reduce vibrations and help everything around them (like hubs, bearings, nuts coming loose). Harmonics and resonance are for music, not travel trailers! 😉 Oh well, I wish Oliver had gone a step above the rest and done it (or offered to do it for $) - what a pain and additional expense having to do this after the fact.

Thank you for your service! Mossey

I can't vote because I'm in a bit of shock. I ASSUMED the tires would be balanced - why wouldn't they? I just ran out into the freezing cold and checked and unless they are magically balanced rims, there's no lead anywhere on any of them. So this is now on the top of my list. I really do find this hard to believe. My answer to the poll is "They were not balanced and I'm shocked. I'm going to have them balanced ASAP" 😞

I had this question myself. Before we signed the final contract, that was one of the things we asked Anita, our rep. The shower track INCLUDES a custom shower curtain.

Lithium in the LEI must be a new for 2022 model year. I don't recall the option available. Will the solar controller in the LEI charge lithium? Thanks, Bill. I had planned on the Texarkana campground stop on my return from picking up the trailer, probably there March 19, after visiting my dad's gravesite in Stamps, AR. John

The one statistic of this super bowl that amazes me is that this is the 55th super bowl and Tom Brady has now been in 10 of them! As a Steelers fan, I might finally have to admit that Brady actually has some skills. 🙂

I assembled my own trailer and have been using it the past two Winters to 1)see how I like the lifestyle and 2)figure out what I wanted in a trailer. Nothing like experience(s) to cement-in a decision. My Legacy Elite II will be ready later this year. This Winter is being spent finalizing decisions on options through experience(s) and finding new places across the SW to park my new Ollie in Jan and Feb022. Best wishes to you on your journey.

@SeaDawgis really a great resource for us "shorties". I have found his advice to be very valuable. I contacted OTT and they told me that I can order the Lithium package upgrade for my Ollie even though it is a 2021 which I plan on doing. My only concern about lithium is the cold weather. We love to ski and here in the Pacific Northwest most ski resorts have a dedicated portion of their parking lot for RVs. I have two adult children who bring their trailers up to the resorts. It is really nice to have our "home" right there in the parking lots. However, I have heard that lithium doesn't do well below freezing. OTT indicated their lithium package does include heating pads for the batteries. That should help. Enjoy your every day! Carl

Alternate viewpoint - If the delivered pressure is set to the max spec as a design requirement- fine - perhaps Oliver should cover this during delivery. Full disclosure would help alleviate the concerns of new Oliver owners - many often new to the RV trailer world. Tire pressures are clearly posted on the GVWR/Tire load ratings label pasted to the Outside of the Oliver shell. Perhaps - we as Owners- new or otherwise - have a responsibility to be better self -informed on our purchase The central point of my comment - was directed towards the roles of service as it pertains to Manufacturing roles and responsibilities. I have and will continue to point out where the two cross - in error - in the Oliver world. This forum - to its credit- is very open to the feedback of customers, past, current, and future. A reoccurring theme - and real-time in many instances- are customers with real concerns - some minor, some not, and some abhorrent. A brake system not complete and disconnected is a major miss where as tire pressure - within the design range- not so. An emergency brake disconnect cable - to short to accomplish the original design intent- knowingly delivered to the customer, is somewhere in the middle - it will work, but it was not correct. I fully realize - it is possible- an issue of concern, may not have been accurately portrayed here to the forum readers. Part and parcel of participation. As good as Oliver may be in "quality" clearly there is room for improvement. One could make a case that Oliver has "historically" experienced lapses in the production process, and relied upon Jason and crew to make the repair. Still, Oliver ranks well in the RV universe. We all hope they continue to earn the status. For my part - tire pressure is an objective design spec - that is subjectively applied to the situation at hand. I made no recommendation as to appropriate settings - only to the issue of responsibility. I would guess- an experienced guess - the supplier has their specs for delivery, Oliver may or may not verify, and the tires/wheels are installed, and the unit goes on its merry way. Does Oliver have a second level verification, not my concern. In any case - add the subject to the delivery process - and the new informed owner can tell the well meaning crusty 60 year young observer - perhaps 80 psi seems high, but its in the design range - I'll need to adjust as I get more acquainted with my new unit. A confident and informed Oliver owner is a satisfied Oliver owner. Off my soapbox - moderate away. 😉 Respectfully, A certified, well meaning, almost Old guy. Edit - I target 55psi in my EII- run tire pressure/temp monitors. And visually inspect tires/wheels/ chassis most every stop.

TESTING SO FAR (the past two days) - 1. I have connected water and tested pressure from kitchen faucet and bath. I have installed a basic Camco blue water filter and a Valterra brass pressure regulator (with the adjustable dial). I have found no leaks, but not sure I would since the leaks would likely be between the inner and outer shells. I also installed the Oliver-supplied quick connects on the white supply hose and the city water and fresh tank inlets. QUESTION - for those of you that use the quick connects, do you have a cap that covers the inlets while you are travelling? Road debris could enter the quick connects, I assume? 2. I have filled and discharged my fresh tanks multiple times. I have tested the Seelevel tank monitor with the trailer at different angles. FACT - An unlevel trailer will yield inaccurate tank level readings. I still have not experienced the loss of pressure caused by the plastic shavings caught in the pump filter, but I'll clean out the filter when I get home. 3. I have run lights and used outlets on shore power and battery. I am still ignorant about how the batteries work and how much I can discharge them with damaging them. I also have no good understanding about how long I could go without recharging the batteries and what types of power loads I could support and for how long. Lots of reading and testing still to come. 4. I have run the Norcold fridge on AC only and only when hooked up. I have tested on propane and appears to work fine, but I turned the fridge off when travelling today. I have not run the fridge off of batteries yet. No issues with fridge, but it is an RV (non-compressor) fridge, so it is small and doesn't get cold quickly. 5. Furnace heats up fast! The first night at Davey Crockett, it got cold (mid-20s). The furnace kept the coach warm enough. I set the temp to 64F. The thermostat seems imprecise, but when the furnace did flip on, it got the coach warm quickly. The second night, I used a small electric space heater (750W) and it kept the coach warm all night long. The furnace never came on. Outside temps were low 30s. One negative in the Elite 1 - the rear duct gets very little airflow and heat through it. 6. The propane stove works well. I made coffee and, yes, it definitely tastes better at camp. The front propane quick connect works well. I have not used the rear propane quick connect yet. I have torked the lug nuts once after about 50 miles. Only one lug was was a tiny bit loose, but all others were still fine. I'll tork the lugs again before I leave in the morning. 7. I have tried the shower and it works, though it is small. Really only good for a quick rinse, but it does the job. I got the Truma instant hot water heater and it works well. I had to reset it after travelling with the propane off. 8. I still need to test the microwave and the compost toilet. Not sure I am ready to grow a garden the bathroom yet😀. I hope this helps. I really believe these trailers are high quality - exactly AS ADVERTISED. Bill

Making my way back to Central TX after 2 nights at David Crockett. I am currently camped at the Clear Springs campground on Wright Patman lake near Texarkana. Thanks @Mike and Carol for the recommendation. All is good in Ollie-land.

We are counting down the days to pick up #750. We have been reading and watching videos to try to prepare ourselfes.This will be a new adventure for us. To be honest, this is our first post on the forum. We both have gained so much useful information from you all. Thank you to each one of you. Andria

Congratulations and yippeo-kiyay! I remember that feeling back in early September. Just today we put our signatures on the final-final contract and emailed a .pdf off to our sales rep Anita down in Hohenwald. Next week we send our $½ down by check, and on March 24 "R-Villa" goes into production with a delivery date of May 17, 2021. The time has flown, what with COVID-19 and spending oodles on Amazon stocking up on stuff for the Ollie. You won't believe how much you will learn from this Forum! Don't buy anything until you've spent a month reading all the posts and searching through all the suggestions. There is a WEALTH of knowledge here! Enjoy!

The only down side with the concealing running boards, is when they conceal you loose the parking lot “door ding” protection. The standard running boards in my experience reeeally help prevent door dings from really careless people swinging their doors open. Our running boards protrude out far enough that the only ding will be on the door slung open by someone who is just careless. Just another view point. 😊

Congratulations! Lots to read and learn on the forums. Ask questions, I have found folks here are happy to share their wealth of knowledge. The videos in Oliver University are great to get you familiar with the trailer and components. Your pick up date will be here before you know it as the time will pass quickly while you are researching and buying stuff for your new trailer. We pick up in 10 more days. Cannot wait to get back to camping after being trailer-less for the last 5 months. Cindy

I've been lurking around these boards for a few months, and am thrilled to announce that we have put our deposit down on a Elite II Twin model. It'll be a model year 2022, with a delivery date of 11/29/21. Can't wait...now to pick out a truck color! MaryBeth

http://www.zarcor.com/rv_products/rv-door-window-kit/ Bill, Just a quick note to say thank you for the info and the link. We ordered our Zarcor tinted window in the white frame and now they offer a white handle to slide the blinds open and closed. My experience with the Zarcor rep on the phone was excellent. He answered all of my questions and just made the purchase very seamless. Based on my purchase experience I would not hesitate to do business again with Zarcor. The price is $129 shipped. David

We live on a Coastal River in SE GA & have traveled the US Birding since 2008 having seen almost 700 species! Since 2014 we have photographed over 460 species of butterflies in the US! We've just made a big leap changing from Airplanes, Rental cars & Hotels to an Ollie! Waiting 3 months will be the hard part.

Today my Zarcor tinted window arrived and I really looked forward to the install. I used the 16 clips to remove the interior frame which was pretty straight forward. I looked at the interior window and it was really well glued in with a bead all the way around naturally to keep water out. I quickly learned that there was absolutely no way to remove the opaque window as the super strong silicone adhesive would NOT release the glass. There was no way to get the silicone to release from the inner frame and using a razor blade on the exterior of the frame was not and option. It would surely leave tool marks as the frame was really tight against the glass as it should be. I called Zarcor and they suggested maybe using a little mineral spirits to loosen the adhesive. I was not comfortable trying mineral spirits not knowing what kind of effect it could have on the plastic frame and honesty just did not want to take the risk. I finally concluded that it was best to return the window and not take a chance on damaging the existing frame or door.