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I will wait and see how this completely new Tundra platform performs in its first year before commenting on performance, handling, mpgs, towing. Having owned 3 previous Tundras I will say the reliability of all three trucks I owned was excellent and second to none. Toyota is out front in terms of reliability and dependability at least in my owner experience. Toyota also provided excellent service when any of my previous Tundras needed it. If I were to ever consider another half ton truck, the Tundra would absolutely be given a first look. I have to have reliability, my Tundras have always been very dependable and very reliable for the long haul. Cheers!

Share and Enjoy !Shares Photography Tips for Mobile Phone Imagine this, the light is perfectly shining onto the rolling hills defined with woodland vegetation spread across the landscape. As the clouds build to a fluffy white peak in the sky, they nestle your bright sided new Oliver Travel Trailer. With the availability of mobile phones with high quality cameras taking great photos of things you love is possible. Here are a few tips and tricks to help you get better photos while on your travels. With a camera accessible at your finger tips and able to be carried with you at all times, there is not a part of your travels you will forget if you can capture it with a picture. Framing Framing a photo is one of the first things to look at when beginning to take a photo. The term framing comes from what the camera will capture when the film is exposed. Modern camera and phone cameras do not rely on film. In fact, there are a lot of helpful tools that can allow framing to be an easier task. Most modern cameras on a smart phone will display a 3x3 grid. This is an essential tool for good framing of a photo. Apple and Android phones: Setting>Camera> activate “Grid Line” The most common display will be a 3x3 grid, to use this tool properly, place your subject at the intersection points of the horizontal and vertical lines. The human eye naturally is directed to that point on a photo. Lighting One of the most important elements to great photo is light. After almost a year of photographing for Oliver Travel Trailer, I have learned that there is a thin line between too much light and not enough light in some circumstances. The Ollies ultra-bright white gel coat in some lighting situations be frustrating. Too much light and it will over expose your photo and you will be left with a bright egg in the photo. With not enough light the trailer can look dull and grey. A solution for this problem is to reducing the amount of light. Place the sun behind an object (ex. a tree, the trailer, cloud cover, etc.) By dampening the sun’s brightness, it can reduce the reflection from the trailer. To increase the light, you can take the photo with the sun behind you. This will reduce shadows and allow available light to fall onto the trailer making it look brighter. In your phone camera, you can also correct some of these issues. Normally, when taking a photo, it will automatically adjust to the available light you are in. But you can control the camera. After framing up your shot, if you touch the screen, it will focus the camera, and a trick many do not know is that by swiping up or down next to the focus icon you will be able to control the level of exposure in the photo. Zoom with your feet Some photos are best to zoom in, or close the distance to your subject. One of the downfalls for a modern smart phone is the zoom feature is not an authentic zoom. By zooming in on your mobile phone camera, it will enlarge and crop available pixels. This will create distortion and you will lose photo quality. My best advice is to zoom with your feet. The closer to the subject you can get will improve the quality of your images. Be cautious with this tip, pay attention to your surroundings. Digitally zoomed in from far away Closer to subject Your own style No one can be you, or have your own style, or appreciate the beauty you imagine. So, embrace your own style, your own travels, and what inspires you. You do not have to copy others work or creations to be good at taking pictures. Finding inspiration to start a creative process can be important, but feeling like you have to produce the same images can be overwhelming. Take the time to be yourself and live in the moments you are in. Just a few quick tips to pack with you on your next adventure. If you are like me, capturing where your travels take you and sharing them for others to see can be a highlight to the trip. Taking a few extra seconds to look, frame, and adjust a photo before taking it can make all the difference, so be patient and soak in the beautiful vistas that are in front of you. Share and Enjoy !Shares The post Capturing Travels appeared first on Oliver Travel Trailers. Read the Full Article

My domestic fridge just stopped cooling, no signs of leakage. Everything testing good on the troubleshooting guides. The opinion of the local RV guy was that I had a failed cooling unit. That left me with two options: buy a new unit or replace the cooling unit. After talking to Jason at Oliver and him telling me that to remove the fridge from the trailer you need to remove the door, I thought I would try to replace the cooling unit myself. I found some places that would ship a unit for $500 to $1000 and I do the install. I watched many videos and researched the work. In this research I found several people talking about burping this kind of unit, it entails flipping the unit on its side, top and allowing the ammonia mixture to reposition and displace any air pockets. Since I had to remove the fridge from its housing I thought I would try it...and it worked! We just took a 10 day trip and it worked fine. Some RV techs said it was a wive's tale. Glad I tried it. Hope this might help somebody.

SPRAY NINE is the best cleaner I have found for the streaks. I spray it on and let it set for a few minutes then use a brush with detergent and then power wash just to rinse. https://www.amazon.com/Spray-Nine-26832-Degreaser-Disinfectant/dp/B0014COKYU/ref=asc_df_B0014COKYU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309748512677&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8740241489339974550&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001872&hvtargid=pla-570918661581&psc=1

Leaving (Burlington area) Vermont this morning, headed to NH. Working our way up to Maine.

A thorough review of the development of the 2022 Tundra with Toyota's chief engineer who managed the process.

Thanks to all who offered advice. Most of you seem to agree that a cheap 12-volt battery, properly connected, would suffice for the short term--getting us home. Mike at Oliver, however, did not agree, saying that we would drain the battery to uselessness within an hour or so. As I wrote earlier, he told me the best temporary solution was to tape up the ends of the cables and secure them until I could get new high-grade batteries. I decided that I wanted to upgrade to the Battle Born lithiums, thinking I might find someone along the route home from whom I could purchase the batteries and who could install them with the needed components. That turned out to be a fruitless search, as those I contacted either could not get the batteries or were scheduled way into the future with other repair jobs. My solution was to order the batteries and needed components-- BBGC2 Battle Born 100Ah GC2, PD4045LICSV Progressive Dynamics Replacements 4000 Series 45 Amp Lithium Converter, and BAM030712000 Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor--from Battle Born. If their shipping promise holds true, I will receive them after we return home. I have contacted my local RV repair shop in Sierra Vista, AZ, and they assured me that they have the ability to install the batteries and components, having done so before with a couple of other rigs. The downside is that they too are swamped, and will not be able to do the work until the beginning of December. In the meantime--since we are committed to staying in Escalante, UT till Tuesday, performing in the festival here--I have made an appointment with a mechanic for Tuesday at what seems to be the only auto repair shop for many a mile, who says he will try to install that cheap battery to help us get home. (I understand that we will have to be very conservative with our power consumption on that trip, hoping that Mike from Oliver might not have had it exactly right.) Despite all of the worry, hassle, and time, I am looking forward to eventually having an upgraded solar/battery system. I received the sale price on the batteries and a reduced price on the components. Folks who said Battle Born had good customer service seem to be correct. Thanks again for everyone's help.

Styling changes don't come readily to Toyota products. I, as most, drive them in spite of their Toyota-signature styling. The more important attraction is the long road ahead with no CELs visible. Rather than concentrating on appearance changes, my hope would be for a payload that is more insync with the tow rating.

i think that a 22 tundra and a 22 ollie would be a good running hardware for the next 10yrs...should make an interesting retirement.?

Right? This seems pretty darn obvious - the point it's puzzling that the chargers being used for Lithium installs don't already just have this as a setting.

Yeah, from backpacking and car camping with tents we long ago just got used to that phenomenon. I've learned to sort of assess their intentions and cope accordingly. If they're not angry then I mostly avoid risking making them angry - waving at them to shoo them a bit seems to not trigger their attack mode. But if they're not right in my food or face then I just leave them be and they leave me be. When we disturb a hive/nest though, it's a code red situation for sure!!

My "swarm" was a bit exaggerated! Usually 3 or 4 bees (Yellow Jackets) - enough to be annoying, especially while eating. I guess I'm just not very tolerant of bugs.

We have never had them truly "swarm" while cooking or eating outside. We may have a different definition for that term though - it's fresh in my mind as we had some swarm while trying to enjoy a viewpoint in the Washington Cascades last week, when my dog was pawing at the hole to their nest that was right in the middle of the trail to the viewpoint. They were starting to rush out of the nest en masse based presumably on some sort of "bee alert system" and were most assuredly starting to "swarm" in big numbers - I yelled "bees" and we all ran up the trail and then checked ourselves and the dog for any that had attached while we were near the nest. The dog got a few stings and my wife and friend each got one but somehow I was spared (thick long legged pants may have helped though my wife's sting was on her arm). We do, however, often have a few annoying but not angry bees stop by when we're cooking and eating - sweet stuff like fruit also seems to attract them. They've never shown any interest in going after *us* though and we just kind of try to wave them away which only partly works. We just live with it though the dog has a slightly harder time just being at peace with their existence. She seems to know enough not to go after them unless they're going after her though. I think she must have had some other hive encounters perhaps when she was a stray before we got her. Biting flies, otoh, she aggressively hunts and when she catches them, she eats them. But we've never had more than maybe 2-3 bees buzzing around while cooking/eating outside while camping - do you often have more than that, and are they aggressive/angry bees?

And, old Oliver owners (I hope).

One additional item to post about the WiFiranger configuration. Remember that if you leave your WiFiranger hardware on at night and are bothered by the status LEDs, there is a configuration option to turn off the LEDs in the Advanced Tab for the configuration. After you change the settings, you will need to reboot the device via the menu or power off/on the device before it takes effect. Warning, never power off the WiFiranger while the configuration is being saved.

Always the optimist - 😂 aren't we?

My 2016 Elite ll is on its third sensor. I tried to get Dometic to warranty the last dead one but after six sets of forms they had me fill out I just gave up (my bad in that these guys should not be allowed to get away with this sort of stuff but I really did have other things to do). Either prepare yourself for a long warranty battle or take JD's advice or place a small fan in front of it that constantly blows fresh air into it or take the risk (not what I'd do) and disconnect it. Note - that reset button only silences the alarm for a few minutes. Bill

That is by far the simplest way to do it. Messy, but only needed the first time.

Sounds like you preformed a refrigerant equivalent of the Canalith Repositioning Procedure. I’m impressed. That was a bold move and I’m really glad it worked for you. Do you have any idea what might have caused the original problem?

If I remember the original post correctly and that’s a 50/50 proposition, the RivNut was installed in the sidewall of the tray mount and a bolt threaded into the RivNut acted as a tray stop to prevent it from sliding. Mossey

Since it’s a propane and CO detector, I don’t think heat would be a factor. It is indeed a strange circumstance. Have you checked the date code on the unit? I know mine started acting erratically before the trailer was 5 years old, but I do think that is the advertised length of service. Mossey

Some of us (sensitive to "age") prefer the term "experienced." I can live with "seasoned," as well. 🤣🤣🤣 Btw, which size rivnuts did you use in your installation? Did you use backer material, or, just the fiberglass sidewall? I ask, because I'm really only familiar with these in furniture/wood. Thank you.

We picked our Ollie up last Thursday 8/5/21. After an excellent walkthrough by Hannah we got u/w for Davey Crockett site 67 where we spent 5 nights. Based on others forum posts i figured to test everything and if a problem arose i would be close to the factory. Well, no problems 861 was in excellent shape, as i expected😊. I have been reading these forms constantly since i first started thinking about buying one. They have been invaluable to me. Too many to name individually, especially for fear I would forget someone, but lots of great advise and suggestion are available for anyone willing to read. Thanks alot to all you who contribute. On our way home in Florida, but looks like TS Fred will change our schedule😂. For info the pickup is a Ram 2500 with the 6.4 Hemi. I started to get the Cummings but after realizing the cargo was equal to a half ton around 1500 lbs where as this one was 3002 lbs. To me that was a game changer as i don’t expect to live long enough to wear out a diesel. Dewey

I really love our pinstriped Ollie 2 but I also love the clean look of your trailer a lot! Have fun and safe travels!

@ Bill: LoL "Back in the Day". Those single latch trays were used on my 2018 Ollie. Hopefully that ancient time, just 3 years ago, does not qualify for us to be "Ole Timers"!!!! On a previous post you are correct about "bolting" the single latch and using a nut and bolt. This topic was addressed a couple of years ago, way back in 2019 I think, and I commented that instead of using a nut, to use a RivNut so that we are not having to fish the nut after we drop it. For those not acoustomed to RivNuts (AKA: Rivet Nuts, Blind Flange Nuts, etc.), below is a sample. If you are not familiar as to how they are installed, send me a PM. Mahalo!

Geez, no need for an apology.. it’s been a great truck, about 150,000 miles and still going..

In a couple of years they might look better too. Just my opinion.

Ralph, you can use any old decent quality lithium based chassis (general purpose) grease, but none of them are what you would call great products. I much prefer Redline CV2, it is FAR superior. You do need to flush out as much of the old black gunk as possible, I don't think there are any problems mixing them, but it is always smart to do that when changing lubrication chemistries. And write down the grease name and type on the frame where you or the next guy will see it, as a reminder. One thing I like is that the oil doesn't separate from the carrier nearly as much, so the suspension stays looking nice a little longer. A petroleum based grease seeps oil constantly, especially in hot temperatures, and that makes a huge mess over time, and I suspect that it is not good for the rubber Ezy Flex equalizer "bumpers". Red Line CV2 You are driving a Lexus, would you put crap grease in your truck?.... Me neither. John Davies Spokane WA

We’ve also stayed at Cedar Creek COE campground. It is only W/E, but has a dump station. It’s open through the end of October. We enjoyed our stay there. It is close to the Opry and an easy drive into down town.

Yes it will, hopefully better than their first go around with electric brake controllers… It’ll be fun watching as things unfold, being longtime Tundra owners and fans.. We will be looking for a new TV in 2022 or 23, and it seems like there are some pretty good choices out there for 1/2 ton trucks. It’s the cargo capacity that is going to be a big factor this time around, and 1940 lbs would be great… but I suspect that applies to the 2x4 models, not the 4x4….probably not the crew cab either. I do look forward to giving one a test drive… maybe giving that new fangled back up system a try in a crowded parking lot full of brand spanking new trucks🙂 We will be looking hard at 3/4 ton trucks this time around…

I'm with WolfDDS on cooking outside. I love to cook on our Weber 2200 and we can cook entire meals on the grill. In the morning: pancakes, eggs, bacon, english muffins all on the grill and then lunch and dinner: grilled vegetables, steaks, burgers, dogs, marinated chicken thighs, etc. My better half will do the veggie prep inside and I'll get everything ready outside. Our outdoor food prep station is a folding table and we have dialed in the utensils, condiments and everything else we need into a container or basket so we're not making too many trips in and out. If the weather is lousy, we'll have chicken salad or tuna salad or something that's easy. Cereal in the morning with fresh fruit. I want to get to a point where I can cook entire meals on the fire like SeaDawg has mentioned in other threads. Recently bought a bunch of cast iron for both our grill and the campfire from Lodge. I really enjoy cooking with cast iron. My wife is an excellent cook and we have a nice kitchen in our home. That said, she has never mentioned to me that the working space inside the trailer is inadequate. We eat very well, but simply, when camping. Love to buy fresh, local produce and good quality meats when traveling and we'll also pack some vacuum sealed foods as well. Good luck with your purchase!

I hear you but after fifteen years with our standard size van (with raised top) we've gotten the utensils and ingredient shuffle down (a few Rubbermaid storage boxes work quite well for this) and frankly just prefer to spend more time outside in the lovely sites we tend to camp at. When we chose how to customize our van we didn't include a counter mounted stove and instead chose to just use a portable (which we can take indoors if really needed) and that worked super well. I think we'll be doing some more very cold and also very rainy camping in the Oliver so will surely be cooking indoors a bit more now that we have that option, but if the weather is good see ya outside!!

LESS STUFF MORE LIFE....adapt life is too short. Hull #848 9k since July this trailer is luxury.... stock . Make room for what is important the answer to your question is all around you. Swamp

As most of the trailers received the pressures are serviced to 80 PSI from the factory, as they were on my 2021 LE II. After 9K on the trailer since July I have notice the ride is pounding. So I contacted Cooper (standard install on Hull #848) for the Cooper Discoverer HT3 LT225/75R16 M+5, Trailer loaded weight is 5700# and I Quote from Cooper Tire "We rounded up to 6000 lbs for total weight for the trailer. 2 axles with 4 tires under the trailer. At 35 psi cold your would have 1500 lbs cold carrying capacity x 4 tires gives you 6000 lbs total carrying capacity. Yes at 80 psi you have 2680 in each tire or 10720 lbs at 40 psi 1650 x4=6600" I will be down pressurizing my tires to 40 PSI and monitored with a TPMS system. Pat

In my last conversation with Oliver Service about a broken hold-down band for the heater tank, they suggested no more than 60psi to reduce vibration issues due to a hard ride. I'm somewhere around 55-60 at this point.

I also think that all the lithium charger companies should allow for a setting for keeping batteries at a different level than 100 per cent, with a soft switch. We have victron on the boat. I haven't looked to see if that's possible,,as we still have lead batteries there. And, the boat is Paul's baby. The trailer is mine. And, we don't have lithium, yet, in either. A limiting soft switch at 50 per cent, or so, for those of us with solar, and (future, maybe, for us) lithium would make so much sense. We go away for months at a time. I'd like to be able to leave critical systems, like propane and smoke alarm and bilge pumps functioning, and let the batteries charge . Not a very difficult thing, imo. Tesla does it in their cars .

Do you have the Bluetooth app for the inverter? If so, by turning the “Charger Ignition Control” switch on (#26), you can disconnect the charger from the batteries… it’ll take care of the inverter noise as it stops it from constantly trying to charge the batteries. There was a thread a while back in which NCEagle brought this strategy to light. I’ve been doing it ever since and it works great.

I’ll start a retirement go fund me to speed that along.

Yay!!! Have fun 🙂 Glad no problems!

Congratulation! Your setup looks great!!

BoB - thanks for the specifics, particularly on how you secure your freezer. John - I do take your warning to heart. Frankly with respect to this thread and on the topic of planning for failures I'd also point back to the warnings I suspect you've seen from the Yakima bike rep about putting the bikes on the rear of the trailer. On top of all the crap that gets on bikes while on a rear rack... Yeah I suppose the resulting damage from failure there may be more to the bikes than to the trailer in case of rack system failure, so at least there's that, but I'd prefer to start with location that has less forces in play - closer to the trailer wheels would in that respect be better than out at the end of the moment arm as the trailer pivots vertically around the axles. Inside our van is another option I'm pondering (the feedback is pretty instant if the attachments there go wrong) but the inconvenience factor while traveling would be a few meaningful steps higher than if they're inside the trailer. Another option is to buy a truck andn put them in the bed under a cap but price is just one of multiple reasons that's also not high on my current list of options to ponder. And yeah I've thought about the inconvenience of having them in the trailer hallway. Locking them to the hitch the same way one might lock them to the rear rack for a night in a sketchy spot is pretty simple. One of my requirements for how we'd position them would be to ensure we could navigate around them if needed during the day (i.e. to get something from a cabinet or to use the bed for a nap -perhaps we'll start wanting to do that but it's never happened yet in 15years of van based road tripping). Any place where I'd put our bikes requires some significant tradeoffs frankly. Life consists of many risks. Thanks for helping me think out the relevant risks here.

Yes, we're thinking along the same lines. Thanks for your great thoughts! So what is it that you use for preventing the fore/aft movement? I know it's not unusual to just anchor the rear rim down to another rail/platform. I could probably get OK with that but I do know that bike wheel rims are meant to handle great radial forces but not so much for lateral forces. This leaves me tempted to guy out the frame (e.g. from near the seat tube/top tube junction) out to anchors on the sides beneath the twin beds (where I was hoping this would reasonably fit). What sort of platform do you use, and do you just count on the weight to keep the whole assembly on the floor and the width of the platform to keep it from shifting sideways? I do worry about bouncing on potholed roads and would like to devise a way to keep the platform(s) down on the floor...

This is a bit of a tangential bike rack thought, but I've been pondering how to transport our bikes inside the trailer. I'm not concerned about getting the inside greasy or such - though when on road trips in our camper van we put our bikes on a hitch mount rack (a nice Yakima one that easily swings out of the way of the rear end doors), when doing day rides near but not from home, we typically just bungie the bikes inside our van, and I've seen zero chain grease end up on anything in the van. We'd just need to be careful (more for the bikes' sake) getting them in and out of the door and down the hall to their mounts. I will wait until we have the van at home to sort this fully out, but one notion I want to ponder once I can get in the van and poke around a bit is perhaps cutting one of these to fit down on the floor in the hall and then find a way to anchor the ends such that we can very easily pull this off and put it back on without having any annoying hardware jutting above the floor surface (yes, one more setup and takedown detail when getting to and leaving camps... we're used to this with bikes anyway): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BT7HWE/?coliid=I282OB1WE7OEOT&colid=17RWTP1C3DA5J&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it I don't love the idea of having the bikes on the trailer's bumper, for reasons a former Yakima rep has described well in other bike rack threads here. Being a fan of finding multiple uses for space in a space-constrained glamping vessel (e.g. that microwave? it's also a small pantry cabinet!), I want to explore harnessing the hallway in this way.