Leaderboard

Yep, after a couple of close calls with mine trying to run away and become a wild free range cover, it’s now on a short leash. It never unthreaded on its own though. The close calls were due to me leaving it laying on top of the doghouse when getting ready to leave a campground. Stainless tether from Amazon, link below. Problem solved. https://a.co/d/5ipX5mE

⚡️⚡️⚡️Today we gotta a call from our local Northern Tool store and learned that our Honda EU3200i had arrived from the warehouse in SC a week early. Yay! So we brought it home and topped it off with fresh oil, non-ethanol stabil treated gas and it fired right up. A game changer being whisper quiet, light weight, and has all the power we need to run the new 13500 BTU Truma Aventa we are having installed in two weeks by Oliver. I really like the My Honda Bluetooth iPhone app, pretty cool timely tech. Its an easy lift and fits nicely in the Oliver cargo basket and at 60# which is half the weight of our Tri fuel Honda EU3000is. As mentioned in an early post, I plan on retrofitting this with the www.Hutchmountain.com LP conversion kit when it becomes available. ⚡️⚡️⚡️ Onward! Patriot🇺🇸

Yet another example of why one should "tether" that cover to the Ollie. Bill

Do NOT swap them at the BATTERIES! You could safely swap them at the back of the sidewall connector. But either is a bad move IMHO just buy the adapter, and verify that there is a fuse of the correct size in the positive line going to the batteries. If you swap them at the batteries the color coding will now be wrong, and the fuse will be in the negative wire, and that hot one will now be completely unprotected. If it should short out a LOT of current can flow back from the batteries through it. 10 AWG wire is rated at 30 amps continuous, and will melt instantly with maybe two or three times that current. Zzzzzzap! Older Ollies with the Furrion port should have a 10 amp fuse, the max that the port can tolerate, but I don’t know the size for the Zamp one. John Davies Spokane WA

I bought Abus products that are all hardened. I have bought half a dozen of their locks which I have all keyed the same. Very nice having one key for all of my locks. The lock are difficult to pick also, not your standard type of key. https://www.taylorsecurity.com/abus-37-series-granit-padlock-37/55-37hb/55-37/60-37hb/60-37/70-37/80-abus-padlocks/0021163/ https://www.taylorsecurity.com/abus-maximum-security-chain-and-sleeve/0021353/ I use the same lock and chain between wheels on one side of the trailer when parked. Also same keyed lock for storage unit on the back of Oli, on the Bikes on the front of the truck and on the bulldog coupler. I did have to enlarge the hole in the collar for the bulldog to 7/16, a little less than 1/16 for the lock to fit nicely. https://www.amazon.com/Collar-Trailer-Bulldog-style-Couplers-Including/dp/B00HL2NM0K/ref=sr_1_5?hvadid=268000891150&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9033018&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10740392163685381895&hvtargid=kwd-309364386875&hydadcr=7062_9585710&keywords=bulldog+trailer+coupler+lock&qid=1682608079&sr=8-5

Thanks Mossey, I will have to try that technique. I use to be able to do the “Hokey Pokey” so maybe I can just run my left arm through, pick up that cover with my right arm, turn myself around and set that cover down. 😅

Besides - How else are you going to feed the dogs that live in there?😁

Not sure if it’s a need but it’s there and I use it because it facilitates the removal and replacement of the cover for the propane housing. I remove the porthole cover and stick my left arm through the hole and pickup up the cover, using the my right hand for stability. Mossey

The only time I use this port is when I turn on or turn off my LP tanks. Naturally this could also be done by just removing the dog house cover. Patriot🇺🇸

@SeaDawg Ha! Thank you for positive response and we look forward to putting the 3200i through its paces. I hope to post up Ollie interior decibel ratings soon. You are spot on, Honda gear rocks! A little more important info - Patriot🇺🇸

@Patriot, you're the first in our group that I know of with that Honda 3200i model. I look forward to your (always honest and impartial) reviews. Looks like a game changer, weight- wise. Lots of power vs slight weight. But, you know how I love Honda gear.... I'm very happy for you. PS non ethanol and stabili are always used in our small motors. Gensets, ski boat, yard tools, etc. I think that's part of their longevity. Besides the brand badges.

The nubs on ours broke off on the way home from Tennessee to Idaho. I opened a service ticket with Oliver, but was advised that the manufacturer does not warrant them. I could not find an exact replacement for the one Oliver installed in the propane tank cover. So, I ordered this screw-in 6" porthole assembly from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZZWYNVL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Because the one Oliver uses has nubs that fit into the outside ring, to install the screw-in kind, I had to remove the original ring from the porthole cover and replace it with the ring that comes with the screw-in replacement. Not very hard, just remove 6 screws, pull the ring out, and use the same screws to install the ring that comes with the replacement. You should only have to do this once. The screw-in replacement is much more secure than the one Oliver uses, and has no nubs to break off.

In our experience of 15 years with the ollie, using solar as our primary choice of charging, but using a genset when we have a string of crappy days, I'll offer this: We use the generator (in our case, 2008 Elite I with only two agm 105 ah 12v batteries) in the morning hours, when most depleted, so the genset is charging in "boost" or "bulk"mode, most efficient for the gas running the generator. Once the on-board controller throttles back to "absorption", and definitely if we take a walk and its in "float", if weather is halfway decent, we shut down the generator and let the silent and efficient solar panels finish the job. The next modes step down, and solar works fine. Actually, better than a genset, at low amp charging. (Side note: if we have to charge a tool battery or something else, we'll do that while the generator is running.) This has worked extremely well for us. A few notes: we have no microwave. We have no inverter. We camp, not rv. We do have an electric dc fridge. But, the principles would be the same. If you use a lot more amps (microwave, toaster oven, electric coffee pot, etc) you may need to run a generator at night, for a bit, as well, even with lithium. The cool thing about lithium batteries is that they actually "like" the middle charge range. Agms want to be topped off every day. Lithium doesn't need that. You'll find your sweet spots, whichever batteries you have. With agms, I try to not go below +/- 75% charge, as I know that extends the life of my (arguably expensive) batteries. With lithium, I'd be ok going down to ten or 15 per cent , but I'd try to keep them in the mid range (30 to 85)

@Patriot, that looks really awesome. Looking forward to your review, when you've had time to put it through the paces. I'm not as strong as I used to be, but I could still manage that one. I think. Honda price tags suck, but the longevity is there. Honda 1000 genset, 15 years old, going strong. Honda Rancher 350 atv, 25 years old, going strong. So much so, we just bought a Honda pioneer 520, side by side. Guessing the Honda stable will outlive us. Hope so, anyway.

An Airstream concept trailer. No production date projected, and combining Airstream and Porsche means this will be a REALLY expensive little trailer. https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a43234914/airstream-porsche-camping-trailer-concept-sxsw/

Installed the Renogy 20A MPPT solar controller on the existing plastic mounting board with the temperature sensor and 9’ of cable on top of the battery this afternoon. Plan to install a “taller” plastic mounting board relocating the controller higher than it’s current position. Decided to leave the original battery compartment door vents plugged since rain can get in the compartment if left unplugged, but plan to install additional louver style screen vents on the battery compartment door for air circulation. These vents will be the same style that Oliver installs on new Ollies, unless I come up with a better vent system, will see. Additional photos: Furrion solar port with Zamp 20A modification mounted on Ollie. The new 100W Renogy Suitcase panel is smaller than the older panel:

Why aren't you guys posting pics? This started out as a used cheap ($130 street price)) Diana Chaser .22 CO2 pellet rifle/ pistol kit and morphed into something better. It now has a High Pressure Air adapter so I can tether it to a small 3000 psi “buddy bottle” with a paintball coiled hose. 120 shots before I have to refill with air. It will still shoot with the 12 gram CO2 cartridges, but they are actually quite lame and expensive in the long run. The rifle barrel was cut and threaded by the previous owner to a carbine length. The camo paint was factory done, I added rubber grip panels. It all fits into my old (discontinued) Allen Takedown Rifle Case. https://www.pyramydair.com/product/diana-chaser-co2-air-rifle-kit?m=4613 John Davies Spokane WA

Are you guys speaking English? 🤔

Wow that's a beast! I pretty much figured you had a plan. My first thought was "really nice gen and only weighs as much as loaded suitcase and has a nice handle". Some folks just can resist without a deterrent. It will be easy to lift into the back the truck when not in use. The honda will be the envy of the RV park. Sure to keep you cool when you need it.

@Ollie-Haus @MAX Burner Actually this is in the running with fairly solid reviews - https://www.amazon.com/Vulcan-Brands-Premium-Hardened-Security/dp/B06WLNVMNT/ref=sxin_16_sbv_search_btf?content-id=amzn1.sym.b000e0a0-9e93-480f-bf78-a83c8136dfcb%3Aamzn1.sym.b000e0a0-9e93-480f-bf78-a83c8136dfcb&crid=RWZM421FJ0JF&cv_ct_cx=high%2Bsecurity%2Bchain%2Bsquare%2Blink&keywords=high%2Bsecurity%2Bchain%2Bsquare%2Blink&pd_rd_i=B06WLNVMNT&pd_rd_r=a975d1c9-567d-4b64-9903-5caa26e7c8af&pd_rd_w=fQfuq&pd_rd_wg=q8LNv&pf_rd_p=b000e0a0-9e93-480f-bf78-a83c8136dfcb&pf_rd_r=S43ZGPFBVK5D7QQNDEP6&qid=1682590865&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=High%2Bsecurity%2Bchain%2Caps%2C100&sr=1-1-5190daf0-67e3-427c-bea6-c72c1df98776&th=1 Naturally if some thief wants it bad enough, well I suppose they will figure out a way. Patriot🇺🇸

Due to its light weight and portability it won’t be riding in the cargo basket while under way. Yes it will be locked down and secured away from prying eyes during travel.

I switched to the 1/4 turn porthole and lid a year or so back due to the discoloration of the original. I also moved the tether from the old cover to the new one. I still lube the threads, there’s just less to lube! My tether was in the parts bag of some shop lights I installed in the past. Mossey

Likely you have already seen this video. Of interest is that at 14:31, it shows the owner using never seize on the center bolt shank. This was a change that was adopted a few years ago and is not shown in older DYI sources or O&M's. One of the "Good/Bad" elements of the OTT OE2 Dexter Axle setups is the length of our springs. They are not standard for the 3500 pound axles. Here is what mine appear to be: The good is that the tires are closer together and it causes less wear on the tires and makes turnng tight easier. The bad is that the springs are not "common". Here is what my EZ flex Info: EZ-Flex Kit: Oliver uses the K71-653-00 Dexter EZ Flex kit. (8,500 Capacity Version installed) EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO CHECK: If OTT was not using EZ flex devices on the vintage of your trailer, there is a possibility that your "Center Bolt" does not have splines on the nut end. Another possible is that if it did have splines, that they were damaged by tightening the bolt/nut from the bolt side. This will spin out those splines. The splines are absolutely essential for "Fixing" (As in prevention of rotation) of the bolt head. IF this is the case, it is essential that you "FIX" your bolt head. This is a life safety issue that has scared the XXX out of myself twice and two other owners that have been documented. There are a few ways to fix the bolt. Using one of these is one of those solutions. Search the forum for other solutions if you like. I did for the better part of three years, and did not find any alternatives that met my safety and effectiveness concerns. PM if ???. GJ Center Bolt Capture Washer Source: Barnes 4WD (828) 551-7616

Because the generator is only supplying power to run your onboard charger which may be as low as 45 amps output.

I can personally attest that driving the 40 mile washboard gravel road into Chico Culture with 80psi in the Oliver tires is both stupid and detrimental to the Oliver. I'm not completely convinced that it didn't slightly alter the earth's orbit around the sun as well.

I find removing the propane tank cover to be cumbersome, and hard on my aged back. I can do it, but don't like to do it very often. Removing the porthole cover is easy, and enables me to reach in and turn the propane tank valves on and off.

Thanks Max, yes it will surely run the Truma, and keep bats topped off for sure. Right now our solar does a great job with our AGMs. 👍🏻 Patriot🇺🇸

HA!, You just read my mind @Ollie-Haus, and beat me to it! Hondas and other rather light-weight GENSETs have a habit of growing legs and running away (I've been told, but never had 1st hand experience). Been using that cable lock for some time now - piece of mind, right? @Patriot: get 2 of 'em, brother!

That is a beauty and very compact. I'm guessing one of these cable locks is on your radar next. 😁 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TKD94K/?coliid=I1GCLJ36VL6EG8&colid=2V9OUXN4W7UBD&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

Congrats, Patriot! That's looking like a great piece of kit for your Ollie. In particular, the fuel injection feature sure is appealing. More than enough power for running the new Truma and will charge your batteries at the same time, right?

Absolutely awesome antenna! I've got a DX Engineering MBVE-5A multi-section vertical (43 feet) with a tilt mount. I had it set up at our cabin with 60+ radials - the cabin sets at 8,300msl; needless to say I was getting good contacts. Its disassembled it and now it's waiting for a good location at our main residence.

Maybe give the threads a shot of WD-40 Brand Dry Lube with Teflon. That makes them a bit easier to thread on and off. I was thinking about going the other way, to one with tabs...as they may be easier to open ....but will not do that after seeing your post. CS

Go to any marine store having the size of the porthole with you.. West Marine if one is near you. If all that fails contact OTT. Also it would be helpful to people responding to you to include in your signature area or in your profile what year and model trailer you have.

To get a decent discharge I think it's necessary to turn off the solar controller (the switch located in the storage area above the streetside bed). This prevents incidental recharge.

Spot on. In my "real world" experience, a generator recharges our 390 Ah batteries much faster than the solar panels, even when parked in direct sunlight at mid-day.

The first example has an error in the charge time formula. It’s using watts instead of converting that to amps by dividing by the panel output voltage. The second example does that. Compare the two charge time formulas. An example of why AI is not to be trusted. It very confidently gave a wrong answer. And in the real world there are other factors as well. The 390Ah rating of the batteries is a discharge capacity rating. Charging is different in that there are different phases of the charge process cycle with different voltage and current values depending on how deeply the battery is discharged. The battery charger also has a maximum limit on the battery charging current as well. A generator with 2000 watts output will charge the batteries faster than a 400 watt solar panel, but it won’t be 5 times faster.

Because their answer is not "real world?" 🤪 Charlie.

It was several years since I installed this system. Easy to install, believe I bought the kit from Nick’s Truck Supply. Don’ know if they are still in business, but they had the best price at the time.

Maybe I got lucky, but it worked for me the first try while installing new coax and an HDMI cable for an outside TV. I also only have the lizard skin insulation and not the Reflectix type which might have given me some extra space to work with?

Will install the controller this week and post photos. We don’t have an inverter, so can’t use 125V appliances when using only solar. Normally use about 25% of the single BattleBorn 100AH lithium battery daily when dry camping. We can easily camp three days without charging the single lithium battery. We have a three way Dometic refrigerator using LP gas to operate when dry camping. Going to monitor heat in the battery compartment with a Renogy temperature sensor, if needed, plan to add vents that open & close easily on the battery compartment door leaving the original vents plugged since they are fixed vents. Will see how testing goes! 🙂 Thanks, Bill

KE5PRE - I'm not very active. Mostly I mount my rig on a motorcycle to support charity bicycle events around the state. The MS Society has an annual ride this weekend. I'm working the route going from to Austin to College Station with an overnight in LaGrange. The other routes are coming from the Houston area so we use a statewide linked net. I usually take an HT camping with us with some local repeaters stored when we hike. Just incase we have an emergency with no cell service.

DdDd DDdD DdDd DDdD Ddd d DdD ddDDD dDDd dDdd DD DdD ddDDD dDDd dDdd DD Great thread, thanks for starting it! I always envisioned The Wonder Egg being a rolling ham shack. During the build (in the early days) I asked Oliver to wire the trailer for ham radio operations with an so239 connector outside, running the coax between the shells to the dinette area with another so239. But for many years, I was so busy traveling around the country making new friends and seeing new sights that I never sat still long enough to study for the FCC license and get on the air . . . until COVID, that is. It was the best social distancing hobby I could have ever participated in during the dreaded lock down. Now my home shack has an FTdx101D joined to a Palstar HF Auto and Palstar LA1k for my primary tranceiver. HTs abound as well. The antenna farm includes an EFHV stretched across the back yard for 133 ft, a Xeigu VG4 vertical up at 29 ft, and my go-to for DX is a HexBeam on a tower at 35ft. I also have a dual band Comet GP-1 mounted on a flagpole at 25 ft. My F150 is fully bonded together with 15 wide brass straps and my Diamondback aluminum tonneau is a great platform for my HF ATAS-120A and for my dual band CA-2X4SR. I tend to hear a lot of crickets on VHF and UHF, but on HF I communicate all over the world while driving down the highway. Inside the F150 I have an FT857D and FTM 400XDR/DE. Inside The Wonder Egg I'll have an ICOM IC-7300 and a Yaesu FT5D HT. I have too many choices of antennas to bring them all with me as I travel. This year I'll be bringing a portable BuddiHEX from Buddipole, a TW2010 with 40M and 80M options from DX Engineering, and a CHA LEFS Lightweight End Fed Sloper from Chameleon Antennas. There is a dual band VHF/UHF antenna mounted on The Wonder Egg. It will be great to meet fellow enthusiasts at the rally and down the road. 73, Pete, K2PLM P.S. Folks, sorry for the NERDing out thing here . . . it's an unfortunate condition of ham radio operators. Thanks for understanding . . . .

The huge issue with storing opened 5200 is that you can never know for sure if it will work later. Do you want to risk screwing up a critical job to save a little cash? Just because the stuff flows out of the tube a year from now does not mean it will cure correctly. Or at all. 2 part epoxies are a MUCH safer bet! John Davies Spokane WA

The wire chase from the attic to the basement is in the aft port corner. I used a fiberglass rod to work from bottom to top. Once placed I pulled a piece of bulk weed eater cord down to the basement. I left enough cord rolled up at each end to pull from either direction. When finished, leave this pull line in place for future use. Additionally, using this technique, I have successfully placed pull lines from the inside of the closet through the ceiling to the inside of the cabinet over the microwave and side to side behind the pantry.

Oliver offers a yearly maintenance package for our customers. The maintenance items included in this package are things that need to be performed for typical camper use at least once per year. This does not mean that this is the only time of the year that you will need or have to perform some of the these maintenance items. Some customers may be able to go longer than one year for some of the items as maintenance is based on usage & environment. Many of the items have been added to our yearly maintenance list because so many people do not perform them and we felt it was best to perform it once per year rather than never. A/C Filter Cleaning: We perform this in the yearly maintenance but in dry environments it should be done weekly. A/C Condenser Coil: Recommended with Dometic A/C at least once per year however depending on the environment of use it could need to be cleaned as often as 2-4 times per year. Birds can also make nests inside when left unused for a period which would also require cleaning. Exterior Caulking: We recommend doing this at least once per year. Depending on the use and environment it may need to be done sooner or if you keep the camper stored half of the year inside then you may be able to go two years. If you do not caulk every year, we recommend that you at least inspect the caulk. Furnace Cleaning: Basic cleaning should be done once per year however insects can invade and build nests that would require cleaning as needed. Plumbing Decalcification: We recommend at least once per year but depending on hard water use & gallons used you may find that it is necessary to perform this 3-6 times per year. Some areas are known for extremely hard water content and you may have to decalcify once per month or use a water softener. Water Filtration systems do not soften water. Water Heater Decalcification: We recommend at least once per year but again depending on use you may have to perform this 2-4 times per year. The Truma water heater will flash when decalcification is necessary however once the unit needs to be decalcified you must stop use and perform the steps. The Suburban water heater does not provide a warning and you will need to periodically drain & inspect. Blade Valve Lubrication: We would recommend lubricating valves about every 2-3 months to ensure best results. Repack Bearings: Dexter recommends every 12 months or 12,000 Miles, whichever comes first. If you drive more than 12,000 miles per year we would highly recommend having the bearings repacked by the 12,000 mile point. Failure to repack the bearings in time can result in failure & breakdown. Grease EZ Flex: This should be done every 3 months or 3,000 miles whichever comes first. 7-Pin: The 7-Pin should be inspected every time you connect it. Water intrusion can cause corrosion which will lead to issues. A freshly cleaned 7-Pin that has water intrusion can corrode as quickly as just a few days. Coupler: Lubricating the coupler should be done as often as needed. Lubrication on an exposed part does not last. The coupler does not have to be greased but a good lubricant should be used to ensure the spring & lever operation works smoothly. Some rust buildup is normal on a steel coupler. Bulldog recommends greasing the ball pocket however Andersen does not recommend greasing for the ball. Grease will not prevent wear but it will help with rust. Tire Pressure: This should be checked every time you pull the camper. Air, over time, can escape thru the sidewall of the tires. Improper tire pressure can cause the tires to wear sooner. Window Tracks: Depending on where you camp you may need to clean the window tracks out as often as every week. Tree debris & sap can start to buildup in the tracks on day one. Once the white window glazing is left uncleaned for a period of time it will remain stained with mildew. The design of the window track makes it near impossible to completely clean the entire track as part of it is hidden under the stationary window. Air helps to free any debris on that side of the track & running water through it with the glazing removed. You can take a rag and clean as much of the track as you can but don't fret if some staining is left. The primary objective is to remove as much debris as possible that will block the weep holes. If the weep holes get blocked then water will backup and overflow to the interior. Sanitize Fresh Water System: If you leave the camper sitting for a period of time it is a good idea to sanitize before hand. This will keep algae from growing in your tank when water is left sitting for too long. You should also sanitize before using the camper after it has set for a long period of time (2-3 months). Deodorize/Clean Black & Grey Tanks: This should be done with every fill (Complete tank fill, not a single use). When setting up camp & using the tanks it is best practice to add treatment to the tanks. Black tank treatment helps breakdown waste during use but once the tank is flushed the treatment is gone. The black tank should be allowed to fill up with waste during use and a single waste dump once the tank is near full. This allows time for the waste to breakdown and a better waste dump. *Never connect to a dump station with your black tank valve open as to dump while in use. This will cause the water to flow quicker than the solids leaving the solids behind in the tank. As is with all maintenance, the better you maintain your camper the better performance you will receive. Failure to properly maintain will result in more issues. All the listed items above are recommended maintenance for the best camping experience. The yearly maintenance package is to complete required and recommended maintenances at least once per year but should not be considered the only time you maintain your camper. There are other items that should be done regularly that we do not perform in the yearly maintenance. Some of these items are: Fan Cleaning: Dust & grease from cooking inside the camper can accumulate on the fans. You should clean the fans periodically as needed. Failure to clean the fans can cause unwanted noise & performance issues. Wash & Wax: This is NOT performed during our yearly maintenance package but we do recommend that you wash your camper frequently & wax it at least once per year. Again, waxing once per year is the minimum and it is better to wax twice per year. If you really want to keep the exterior looking its best than it is recommended to wash frequently & use a good spray on wax such as Duragloss Aquawax every time you wash. The spray on wax does not however take place of the old fashioned wax that should be done once or twice per year unless you are washing & spray waxing the camper every week. Black Tank Flush: There is a water inlet dedicated just for flushing the black tank. This is something that is best done every time you drain the tank. Water Pump Filter Check: Inspect the water pump filter before or after every camping trip. The filter's purpose is to catch unwanted debris that may be in the tank from entering the fresh water pipes.

The protective tape Oliver uses around the pantry edges would be a good choice - haven't looked for it but I bet it's available on Amazon. Charlie.

Roll-up solar panels work great on the Webb space telescope, so should work on an awning. 😁 Funny that Mossey showed the sliding solar extensions, as I was already going to see if something like that would work on ours. A fellow Hiker trailer owner did something similar. Not extensions to existing panels, but hidden panels that slid out from under his roof top tent. They worked great!

Very interesting. Imagine two of those (curbside and street side), ~2,400 watts with two (under ideal conditions), but that would power a LOT of appliances & accessories. No charging while driving though since the awnings would be retracted, but still a very cool product. Hope it succeeds.

NO, No, No! Think of it as a "dumb waiter" so that the pizza and beer delivery person can simply drop it off and you can access dinner and beverage directly from the interior. No more opening the door, no more running out into the rain for the essentials of life.😁

Another point to remember is that bearing don't have a recommended change interval. Don't just assume because they have 12,000 miles on them they're shot. The number one cause of trailer bearing failures is infrequent use and the subsequent corrosion or pitting that can occur due to grease contaminated by condensation/moisture forming inside the hub. Routine inspection and repacking, or more frequent supplanting of old grease, are the accepted ways to extend bearing life.