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Hey Ron, Another Oliver owner reached out to me about your issue and provided this post. I apologize that you had this issue. Looking at the pictures it looks like the striker plate is on upside down which was stopping the deadbolt from engaging at all. Do you know if the deadbolt has ever worked since you picked up the camper from delivery day? Looking at the white piece inside the door, it looks like the striker plate has been flipped at some point as the white piece is installed as a background so you don't see the inside of the door frame. .

Here is an interesting video which gives a pretty straight forward way to disable the speaker on an Apple Air Tag. Removal of the speaker eliminates the continuous audible chirp after 72 hrs. Removal of the speaker will not allow a bad actor to hear the chirp, then find and disable the AT by removing the battery after he/she locates it. For example an AT hidden in a car under the seat or in the trunk. Or in a piece expensive camping equipment say a portable generator or even an Oliver TT. The bad actor will eventually figure out there is an AT on the stolen item tracking them if they have an iPhone. Without the speaker chirping it will be more just a bit a lot more difficult to find. A common misconception - the map location is not the location of the air tag, it’s the map location for your truck or campers air tag that would have been the location of the persons phone who parked or walked or drove by close enough for their phone to hear the air tags broadcast. Patriot🇺🇸

Before we took delivery of Hull #1291 last November, I compiled a list of nearly 100 potential manufacturing defects reported by previous Oliver owners. Strike plate misalignment was not one of them. Fortunately for us, our door and latches were installed correctly. Sorry you are the victim of poor door and strike plate installation. Even though your DIY remedy was effective, I recommend you submit a service ticket, so the Oliver Service Department is advised of yet another sorry failure by the folks in the manufacturing department. Kinda sucks when you pay so much for an Oliver, doesn't it? Lest you feel unlucky, I have spent most of the last several days troubleshooting inverter issues, and sealing the external screw heads on the Truma air conditioner (after leakage) in our 6-month-old Elite II (at Truma's recommendation). Jason Essary has provided indispensable help with the electrical troubleshooting, and even initiated the Xantrex warranty case for me. Our 3000 watt Xantrex inverter won't invert more than 1100 watts for more than a few minutes without shutting down, even when the batteries are at 100% State of Charge. Although it is frustrating to experience such issues with a nearly new, and very expensive, trailer, Oliver's Service Department has provided invaluable service helping me isolate the source of the problem, and pursue warranty relief. It appears to me that quality control in Oliver's production facility remains unacceptable for such a premium product. But, Oliver's Service Department, and particularly Jason Essary, continue to effectively counterbalance those oversights with exemplary customer service after you take delivery.

I presently collaborating with a family owned steel fabrication company in developing a “puck lock” security tray for the new Honda EU3200i. The design is very similar to the Honda 2200i. A bit if rough draft work measuring and many photos of the new 3200i. It’s a bit larger than the 2200i with a different bottom where the rubber feet are located. The numbers and design are now in the CAD stage. It will be crafted from 10 gauge metal and powder coated black. This will allow the me to lock the gen down in the Oliver cargo basket during travel covered of course. And the option to actually run it in the cargo basket. I am hoping to have the first copy in a few weeks so I can conduct a fit and finish test on the our 3200i. My measurements have been redacted until final development. I was hoping to have this Rally ready and installed however the timing is not working out. We are headed off to Oliver soon, so it will be after the rally before I can post up a few pics. Patriot🇺🇸 rough draft presented for CAD. IMG_2342.avif

Just some trivia for a discussion topic. I’ve been looking to purchase a small inverter generator to carry on long extended camping road trips, and in comparing specs and reviews, the Honda series consistently comes out as a top choice (but pricey!). One interesting detail is the engine displacement comparison. The Honda has a significantly larger engine for the given wattage compared to the lower cost competitors. Probably explains a lot about the reliability and noise advantages of the Honda. The larger gas engine just doesn’t have to work as hard. Couldn’t find any any info on the engine horsepower ratings of each brand though. Maybe it’s on the data plate on the unit itself (there’s a direct relationship between engine horsepower and potential maximum wattage of the generator). Larger engine displacement typically means more torque, and more torque means lower RPM needed to achieve a particular horsepower. HP= torque in lb-ft x RPM/5252 1 HP=33,000 lb-ft/min=746 watts Comparison: Home Depot Ryobi 2300 watt - 79cc. ——— Harbor Freight Predator 2000 watt - 79cc. ——— Honda EU2200i 2200 watt - 121cc. ——— Champion 2500 watt - 79cc. ——— WEN 2500 watt - 80cc. ——— Craftsman 2500 watt - 98cc. ———

I believe a circuit breaker of type JLE-1-41340-250 or equivalent is listed in the LItionics 12V320A manual. @Rivernerd it sounds like you've jumped out the circuit breaker so this may not be the issue in your case. Some high power systems have separate sense inputs which provide independent high impedance sense wires that are brought back to the battery to monitor the battery voltage directly at the source thereby compensating for any voltage drop across the high current supply lines, I'm not sure why Xantrex doesn't do this, admittedly the systems that we have are less demanding comparatively but as such require close attention to all the accumulated resistances, wire gauge, connection resistance, grounding etc.. When I have more time I'll look further at my system. I'll attach the data from the checks that I've made so far. I'll be checking the grounding next.

I would most likely go with Honda if it was dual fuel.

I won't hijack this post but I just wanted to mention that we have the same issue. The issue being that there is a significant voltage drop across the supply line from the battery to the inverter which includes the Optifuse circuit breaker, the Optifuse being the largest contributor. The Optifuse seems to have a significant 'on' resistance which becomes increasingly significant as the load increases. This causes the voltage that's seen at the inverter input terminals to be less than what's actually measured at the battery terminals by a significant amount. On my system with a 1600W load the voltage seen at my battery terminals is 12.78V whereas the voltage seen at the input to the Xantrex inverter is 12.2, that's a .58V drop! With the Xantrex LBCO setting set to 12.1V any increase in load will cause a LBCO shutdown when in fact the voltage at the battery is well within specification. Curiously Optifuse does not publish an 'on' resistance specification for their part. It could be that the circuit breaker is 'bad' or it could be that the 'on' resistance specification that they manufacture to is too wide, it's hard to know since they don't publish that specification. In contrast the circuit breaker that Lithionics specifies does publish an 'on' resistance specification and it's very good at .000125 ohms; with a 1600w / 126A load that's a drop of only .015V.

Seems like we've had our Honda EU2000i forever. Can't even tell you how many years, but a lot. I change the oil and service the air filter and it just goes and goes. Fine for occasional battery charging or even running the microwave. BTW, all the fire departments around here carry Honda portable generators.

I suppose any of the above will make do. Oliver Service highly recommends a minimum of a 3000 watt inverter gen. And now with those that choose the optional quieter new Truma Aventa a 3000 watt generator is required if you want to run the AC. I am partial to Honda gens as they have always served me very well. My 02 cents worth. 😊 Patriot🇺🇸

Looks like I will be washing our new Truma filter's. Thanks for posting. Patriot🇺🇸

Who am I to dispute what Truma says about its products? That said, attached are three photos showing: (1) one of the two filters removed from our Truma Aventa air conditioner on the countertop above the fridge; (2) a close-up of the filter, so you can see the plastic honeycomb and (3) me washing a filter in our home kitchen sink. Silly me for thinking they could be washed instead of replaced for $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$!

From the Aventa manual: 9.2 Filter change The filters in the air distributor must be changed according to the intensity of use. It is recom- mended this be done at least every 12 months. Never operate the air conditioner without filters. This can reduce power and performance. The filters can not be cleaned. I guess the manual must be incorrect.

This new thread is a spinoff from the Door Lock Problems thread. I mentioned the issue with the Xantrex inverter to commiserate with the poster who had the door lock issue. So, here's the issue with the Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 watt inverter: it inverts as expected with loads up to 1100 watts (like the Truma air conditioner), but loads like the 1500 watt microwave cause a low-voltage shutdown after a few seconds (sometimes) or a few minutes (at other times). This seems to be affected by battery state of charge. Voltage drop when under load is normal; I am advised that a 0.4V to 0.5V drop under large inverter loads is normal. But our 3000 watt inverter shows voltage drops from 0.9V to 1.1V when a 1500 watt load is engaged. If, for example, the voltage reported on the Seelevel monitor is 13.1V, engaging a 1500 watt load will cause an immediate drop down to 12.4V on the Xantrex display, then less than a minute later, down to 12.2, then 12.1 and finally 12.0 in less than 3 minutes. The inverter then does a low-voltage shutdown. This limitation makes the microwave unusable on inverted power at State of Charge levels below 75%. With lots of responsive help from Jason Essary, I have been troubleshooting first the DC side, then the 120V AC side of the trailer wiring. I have found no loose connections which may cause the unexplained DC voltage drop. This included removing the 300A Optifuse breaker from the DC side (by placing both the lug from the battery and the lug to the inverter on the input side of the Optifuse breaker. That produced only a 0.1V improvement in DC voltage drop with a 1500 watt load. A post by Tom and Doreen on the Door Lock Problems thread suggested the source of the voltage drop could be the Optifuse breaker, and that Lithionics specifies a different breaker, which may have a much lower resistance specification. Is anyone else with the 3000 watt inverter having this issue when using the microwave on inverted power? What 300A breaker does Lithionics specify? Could that be the answer?

Ten years for PERFECT looking tires seem very reasonable, but, like so many have said here and else where, we just can't see what's going on under the tread. Dang it! I better not hit something on the road to the OTT rally with my new tires. I could have done that with my old ones and felt okay about it. LOL In regards to rim sizes going away, nothing will happen over night, and I suspect we'll be able to get 15" and 16" in decades to come. I have NO doubt.

Received the Air Tags and removed all four speakers. It’s not difficult to do and all four are mute now.

I have the flooded lead acid battery setup (4 of the 12volt FLAs in parallel). I considered the Honda EU1000i (MSRP $1099) but it’s still very expensive, almost the same price as the EU2200i (MSRP $1399). I’d rather have the overkill 🙂, so it can be used for additional generator needs around the house, etc.

Hi Rivernerd, Thank you for creating this thread. I *may* have a similar issue but I'm currently 2 states away from my Oliver. I will check and respond to this thread when I'm home this weekend.

I see you have a 2019 LE II. Oliver only offered flooded/AGM batteries and the 45 amp converter/charger in 2019. Do you still have the flooded batteries with the 45 amp converter charger? If so, then anything larger than the little Honda EU1000i would be overkill for battery charging. A 45 amp converter charger will only be able to charge your batteries at a maximum rate of about 650 watts (45 amps charging current * 14.5 volt maximum charging voltage) regardless of how large your generator is. Assuming 10 percent losses in the conversion from 120 volts from the generator to the 14.5 volt charge current, the maximum generator size needed to charge your batteries is about 725 watts (650 watts / 0.9). If you have only two flooded batteries, then they won't even be able to accept a full 45 amp charging current. Even after adding the tri-fuel conversion kit to the EU1000i, it should still put out a continuous 800 watts when running on propane. More than enough to charge your batteries at the fastest rate possible while simultaneously running the furnace and a few lights. Any larger generator will not charge your batteries any faster (unless you convert to Lithium batteries and an inverter/charger with a higher charging current capability). If the above accurately describes the configuration of your Ollie with the original 45 watt converter/charger and flooded/AGM batteries, you may want to consider the little Honda EU1000i with the conversion kit. It is significantly lighter and much quieter than even the Honda EU 2200i. (I know because I own both). It is expensive though.

Door Lock problems From the time I took delivery of my 2022 Elite #1209, the door has been difficult to latch. It required too much force, especially for my wife. I always lock it when we travel. On two trips the door popped open. On inspection the latch bolt barely engaged the strike plate. I adjusted the strike plate sideways but could still jerk the door open. To resolve the problem I had to grind out the opening in the aluminum door frame further and the horizontal screw hole openings in the strike plate allowing me to slide the strike plate further. This solved the problem with the latch bolt. It never occurred to me to check the deadbolt as I just assumed it was engaging. One evening I just locked the deadbolt and then easily pushed the door open. When home, I placed a small amount of white paint on the end of the dead bolt latch and locked it. As I expected, the dead bolt latch did not engage the strike place opening. In fact, dead bolt was hitting the metal on the strike plate and not functioning at all. I could not reposition the strike plate because of the position of the opening in the doorframe. I cut a square opening in the bottom of the opening in the strike plate and used the paint a time or two to insure that the dead bolt fully engaged the opening and no longer hit the strike plate. I could immediately tell that the deadbolt latch was in the opening and the door firmly locked. It was obvious that either the wrong strike plate was used at the factory or that they positioned it too high so both the latch bolt and deadbolt could not both go into the same opening. The photos show the paint marker on the end of the deadbolt latch, where it struck the strike plate, the square opening I had to cut into the strike plate to get the deadbolt to work properly. I advise, especially new owners, to take a close look at the position of the door strike plate and insure that both bolts are engaging. Happy travels, Ron Williams

Once again I would like to thank @Hokieman for putting me onto this thread and everyone who participated on this thread. I had missed it when you guys are actively creating it. With my new Michelin Agilis Crossclimates going on the trailer next week, they will still be brand spanking new by the time I make it to the rally, let the inspection begin. 😉 I have doubts that I will be able to tell any difference from my original 2015 Michelin LTs, while driving. It sounds like I will be just fine staying within 45 to 55 PSI, no matter how heavy I load the trailer and maintaining 7000 lbs, unless I load up with too much good Lagar. 🙂 Many of us continue to learn from these forums. Thank you all! It's really appreciated by me.

Have you tried adjusting the directional vanes, and the "front vs. rear" slide switch in the bottom middle of the unit? That slide switch can divert air flow either all forward, all aft, or a combination of the two. And, the rotating directional vanes can move air flow side to side.

@HDRider Correct Honda gens are spendy, but then again so are Olivers. One needs to roll with what suits their budget and puts a smile on their face. 😊 Patriot🇺🇸

Honda is expensive. I have owned a lot of Honda products. All were best in class. I just want a small generator to top off the batteries as needed, like @Frank C Two things come into play for me. 1. Weight 2. Dual Fuel This is my #1 contender @ $700

I’m not looking to run the air conditioner or microwave. Just looking for battery charging for running the DC accessories like the water pump, lights, fans, jacks. And thanks for the Honda recommendation! 👍🏻

I guess you'd be the one with the right answer! Thanks for confirming this! I just tacked this info on to the ticket.

The transfer switch would be located under the forward dinette seat. Brown box two big wires coming in, one going out.

The Additional 30A Convenience Connection is not just for generators. It is truly for the "convenience" of being able to plug a 30A power source, whether regular shore power or a generator, into the curb side of the trailer. That said, the fact that plugging shore power into that 30A curb side inlet did not charge your batteries suggests that your transfer switch is not working. If you had only the primary 30A inlet on the street side, you would not have a transfer switch. But when the additional 30A inlet is added, a transfer switch must also be added. The transfer switch is designed to direct power from whichever inlet is used to the trailer's electrical system. Many Oliver owners have had issues with their transfer switches. That is one reason we don't have an Additional 30A Convenience Connection on Hull #1291. But since you have it, it should be functioning properly for safety. I recommend you ask your "RV doctor" to take a look at your transfer switch, and probably replace it, so your electrical system will work as designed.

Craig, If you want to see 100+ Olivers and if you have some spare time later this month, make the drive to Lake Guntersville State Park near Huntsville AL. May 18-20 there will be a campground full of Olivers. It’s probably about 750 mile drive from Leavenworth, but you’d be able to spend several days looking and talking to owners. There’s a lodge at the park to stay at or lots of options in Huntsville. We regularly have prospective owners come to do some discovery work. Mike

Hi, Craig. We contacted Oliver and they quickly hooked us up with owners about 40 minutes from our house. As others have said, using their "See an Oliver" program is the easiest way to see one in person. (BTW, we were worried about the fridge size, too. Seeing one in person convinced Steph it would be fine, which it is.)

The Truma Aventa filters are washable plastic grids. I have removed them, but have not needed to use the air conditioner enough yet to need to clean them. They are reusable.

OK, it's dark out, freezing rain, wind is howling like a banshee - you're tucked-in all cozy in your Ollie and the furnace quits. You don't have the heart to sent your wife out again to check the LPG tank gauges - so you go out and brave the elements to see what's going on inside the dog house. As those that have one know, you can color that ship, "sailed" by getting a tank monitoring system. Here's how we handled this MOPEKA modification earlier today: 1. Unpacked the Amazon box, downloaded the app and synchronized the two sensors to the remote using the app. 5 minute drill - easy peasy. 1. Halo Rings, Sensors and Remote.pdf 2. Remove tanks, cleaned bottom of tanks. Prepped sonar sensor with dielectric and placed in center of bottom of tanks with attached magnets. Placed halo rings on tanks. 3. Clean bottom of tank, place sensor and halo.pdf 3. Replace tanks, test again... 6. Replace Tanks, Test each again.pdf 4. Fixed VELCRO to back of remote and install inside OTT 8. Mount inside Ollie.pdf One and done - so far, so good. We'll report back after a trip or two... Cheers!

2021 LE 2, lithium pkg, 3000w inverter Below are screen shots of the inverter under load of the microwave running. The microwave had no issues for several minutes. The second screen shot is the inverter settings you can use as a comparison to your settings....just to make sure. Battery low cutoff can be a potential issue that will shut down the inverter before you want. Steve

This thread shows a number of installs:

I agree. We have had a larger number of defects in our trailer than I expected at this price point. More, in fact, than our previous trailers. Also agree, mostly. Service has been excellent at sending me parts that I needed to perform repairs, and at coordinating service with appropriate national/local vendors as needed. However, our trip to Hohenwald for warranty service last month did not go as well as expected. I fear both the manufacturing facility and service department are still having trouble maintaining the higher product output.

Not I, said the little red hen... 😅

We are at site F50. Thanks! Patriot🇺🇸

Galway Girl, Thanks for your outfitter's guide. I've ordered several items from it :) John

I believe that AirTags operate in the low GHZ region and as such fiberglass will offer little attenuation compared to other materials so if the trailer is rolling down the highway the odds are pretty good that someone will be driving by with an Apple device, less so out on the back roads / country. The good news is that a lot of thieves also have Apple products so their own devices may squeal on them! 😁

Thanks for the info. But some of that is either misleading or wrong. Harbor Freight is an American company but the Predator generators are built in China and imported, like almost all HF products. Companies will use wording like “designed in USA” (Apple does this a lot) to give a more positive impression.

Hi J.C. If you haven't started doing this, start subscribing to some of the popular RV channels on YouTube. There's a wealth of knowledge they share, their experiences and many of them are very honest about the typical obstacles and difficulties that can come up that you should be prepared for. Just to name a few, Long Long Honeymoon , Keep Your Daydream, CheapRVliving, Today Is Someday, All About RVs, RV with Tito DIY........ there are many more but these are all good and will give you plenty to watch and learn about. Welcome to the forum and good luck.

I feel for you. This comes easily to me because I was an aircraft A&P…. Please post your location as part of your signature. You need to visit an off grid RV solar installer *specialist*. Here is some reading. https://battlebornbatteries.com/rv-or-boat-lithium-battery-installers/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6629-how-to-find-happiness-with-lifepo4-lithium-ion-batteries-solacity-article/ I would not hesitate to go here (no personal experience). They are in Colorado and can do the installation in a couple of days. Read the reviews near the bottom….. https://www.rvoffgridsolar.com/ I am very happy with my choice of components, scroll through my links page for ideas. If you do not use the microwave a lot and don’t want to run AC, 200 amp hrs is plenty. If you want to run a compressor fridge go with at least 300 AH. Make sure that they add some extra ventilation for dead-end compartments! Oliver does not do this! It all depends on your camping style and where you do it. It will be costly but if your batteries are toast, it makes sense as an upgrade and it adds value to the trailer. High end RV manufacturers are joining in. For example the Cirrus truck camper comes with a standard single 100 AH Battle Born. Here is their (power user) option: John Davies Spokane WA

Well, we do and we love them as they report via BT in percentage of fill. We did not use the metal spacers that came with the Mopeka sensors - we used the edge protectors that we had left from the fiberglass bed edges. Worked well for us. Charlie.

I was not aware of the tank halo or I would have bought them I basically made the same thing but they fall off when I pick the tank up so I need to make sure they stay on when I go to fill the tank. I think I may buy 2 from Mopeke it will eliminate a problem.

Well, these new hoses went on in a snap. No leaks now. I did need to rotate the tanks 90 degrees so the lines fit best. We'll see if they last another six years.

Amen to that! If we get at least 30 of us, can we buy the personal proofreader at wholesale?

Under the rear street side bed, on the trailer frame, right next to the exterior faucet. I wanted to know if those plumbing fixtures were exposed to freezing temps. The lowest reading from my digital thermometer in that location was 38 degrees F, when the outside temp was 9 degrees F.

I recently set up an appointment to have an annual service which takes two days to do. I have done an annual service once before and that is what it took. During the same call I asked them if they could install the Aventa. This call happened the day before I received the email advertising the retrofit availability. I was told they would need an extra day for this. I asked service to add it into the estimate and schedule it (all planned for June). So I was surprised to see the above 2-3 day estimate.

And getting a truck big enough to haul everything will get you admitted to the cool kids club.

Thanks Steve, the tech and I tried it, but didn’t have a lot of room on top. We really put some muscle into and got no movement at all. We were really afraid we’d damage the gel coat or worse. May 2020 delivery.