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Happy Independence Day y'all!

No smoker here in wnc (yet), but we made some awesome ribeyes on the campfire. Adding hickory log for the last hour before adds a great taste. Happy and safe 4th to all.

Girard does have a couple of special features on some awning motor controllers that are normally utilized when the awning is an installation on a motor home, to prevent driving off with the awning still extended. The Girard manual details both a parking brake off retract, and an ignition on retract option. Maybe Oliver figured out a way (accidentally or intentionally) to utilize one of those features by tying into the 7 pin harness running light connection.

Not fair! I get to wash Twist and then its Dogs and corn on the cob for supper. Ribs would be WAY better. Either way - none of this would matter if we weren't free and living here in the US of A. Happy 4th everyone!. Bill

Just finished 7 cloudy days in Yukon, and out Lithionics Platinum (2 x 325ah) also held up great. 7 days with some sun and using all items including uW for short bursts and tv at night.

Happy and Safe 4th to all! Mossey

Happy 4th of July to all! 🧨💥🎆 🇺🇸

Great to see another Ollie on the hoof! Nice wave and a big welcome smile as I sailed past. Whomever you are - thanks for making a long drive memorable! Bill

Glad to hear you are in the queue! Looking forward to your review! 👍🏻

@Patriot I am still in the queue for getting it installed. They are backed up and I am looking forward to telling everybody more once it is in. I have ordered the unit and I am just waiting to get it put in.

Great report Chris. The super quiet “Truma chiller” as we now call it is a game changer full on! With the Truma being so efficient on low, I don’t think we will ever really need to run ours on med or high. I also really like the use of the original Oliver OEM condensate drain tubing which really makes for a sano install on the retro fit. Happy and cool! 😎

Happy 4th all! @Patriot Those ribs sure look good! 🤤

I believe the Norcold requires 12v DC for the control board, even to run on 120v AC. As @SeaDawg was alluding, this could be a 12v power issue, especially if you have no lights on the display. If your batteries are charged look for a loose wire or 12v fuse.

Ok so from what I could figure out we need part# M1-20-91-78 20 = 2” hole dia. 9 = cut key 1 = 0.25” door thickness 7 = Long cam, offset reversed Can someone check and verify the part#, I’m very new to Oliver and contacts in Hohenwald, but once we have confirmed the part# I don’t mind sending an email to support. Pretty sure Oliver should be able to confirm the part# we need to replace the latch with “1910” stamped suitcase key with the cut key latch.

From my very limited testing, and advice from one of my friends in the marine industry, the "dehumidify" function is really a very low level steady operation of the ac and fan. I'm surprised you dropped to 61, but that could certainly be possible, I'd guess, simce your outdoor temps were so low. Mine worked great in the driveway, in close to 90 outside temp, and little shade. Lot of water coming out, dry inside.

I would open a service ticket! But it seems like a pretty good safety feature. Mossey

Happy 4th to ALL! (We're doing ribs on the Big Green Egg this afternoon, too!) Cheers!

This project is to create an inlet port for Starlink cable into the attic where I put the Starlink router. I decided to repurpose one of those TV/Sat ports. Below are the pictures of the Furrion coax inlets. The left picture is the original and the right one is modified by drilling a big hole using hole saw. This is the waterproof RJ45 inlet port I got from Amazon. Next steps are removing old Furrion and enlarge the cable hole. To my surprise, I found a nice gift from the factory hidden under the seal. No big deal, I can add a little bit of 3M sealant to patch that up. Then install the RJ45 connector, left picture is from the outside, right is from the inside. This is what it looks like after putting back the cover. Next is to fish the cable from attic down to the belly near the furnace and pull it along the back and plug into the RJ45 inside port. You will have to cut the cable and install RJ45 male connectors. There are a few video on YouTube about this. Then plug it in at the RJ45 female at the inside of the inlet. The cable end from the dish will be on the outside. Plug the router in and enjoy fast Internet!

Deb and I were mooch-docking at my brother's rural home Friday through Monday. It was so quiet and pleasant compared to a busy campground! All we heard were birds, wind, and the sleep-inducing patter of rain. Yesterday, I was getting a head start on preparing to leave before the next rain rolled through. I hooked up the trailer to the Land Cruiser, raised the jacks, unplugged from the house, plugged in the 7-pin, etc. Meanwhile, Deb and my sister-in-law were sitting under the street-side awning enjoying a cool drink in the shade. I sent my brother around to the back of the trailer to check the lights, when a strange thing happened! I turned on the ignition of the Cruiser, and turned on the running lights. The lights all worked properly, but the oddity was that the awning started retracting!! I used the remote to stop it, turned off the ignition and lights, and then tried it again in case it was some weird fluke. Nope, lights came on and awning retracted. I've checked the Oliver manual and the Girard manual, and see nothing indicating this feature. Looking at the Girard installation instructions, I don't even see how this could be triggered. I can't imagine the turning on the lights creates some RF interference that causes the awning to think the remote button has been pushed, but I guess it is possible. I didn't think to try it with the curb side awning, but I definitely will the next time I hook up! Ours is a 2023 trailer with both awnings. Could someone with a similar setup give this a try to see if it is a "feature"? If this is intentional, it should minimize those stories of people pulling out of camp and forgetting to retract an awning!

We’ve been camping around Colorado since early June and we’ve passed a couple of Olivers on some back highways. We’re currently near Steamboat with a Scamp on one side and a Casita on the other. There’s an Escape just 50 yards away. Can’t beat this weather! Mike

Safe Travels Bill! Patriot🇺🇸

Thanks for pointing that out! I assume that’s to prevent alternator charging. Mossey

Sir Richards Squires Memorial Provincial Park, the road to the park is long gravel/dirt with a little pavement and lots of pot holes. It is a nice campground once you get here. Good fly fishing location.

Mountain Waters Resort in Portland Creek, good fishing if you have a boat.

Not if you have a factory lithium package. They don't connect that 12v pin to the batteries. We used to carry a 7 pin socket wired that way for use in an emergency. If you had to leave your trailer on the side if the road at night because of a breakdown it would light the running lights while you were gone. (Should have incorporated a flasher unit, now that I think about it...)

@Roadlotus any updates on your Dometic Freshjet install? Are you still considering it? Hoping the retrofit all goes smoothly. I am interested in your thoughts and feedback on the new Freshjet. Patriot🇺🇸

Now I have another test to run in the morning! Never stop learning when it comes to a new Oliver. Thanks for sharing Steve!

In average outside temps and high humidity, our camper get quite chilly in dehumidification mode. It does a great job though. I run it for a while when it feels sticky inside and then switch to night mode. This seems to work pretty well without needing a quilt on the bed.😆 I have noticed that it does seem to reach a humidity set point and the compressor shuts down. Usually comes on and off throughout the night to maintain the arbitrary set point. I'm actually good with it.

Good advice. I'm heading out for a week, but will contact Rodney about repalcements.

Nothing will happen if someone(s) doesn't actually send a letter/email/PM/all of the above making this suggestion to Oliver. I'd do it but I'm on the road for the next two months 😁. If it were me - I'd start with communication to Rodney Lomax. Bill

Cheap yoga mats from Amazon. We cut out templates out of paper grocery bags, then cut mats to fit. we used 3m no-residue duct tape on edges. Items are listed on the Amazon Oliver’s Outfitter Guide here: Amazon Olive Outfitters Guide Cheers, Craig & Rose

And A Happy 4th to y’all as well. Glad the Platinum Package is all you hoped for! Mossey

I finally got around to trying this over the weekend. It wasn't particularly hot. Just typical midwest 75° with 80-plus percent humidity all weekend. Sunday eventing, we were in my brother's house for several hours, so I thought that would be a good time to test out "dehumidify" mode. It worked great, but the negative is that it ignores any temperature setting, apparently only trying to reach an arbitrary humidity level. We we went out to the trailer for the night, it was 61° in there! 🥶 Have those of you who have fiddled with the dehumidify more had similar experiences? Any method to set a minimum temperature? Thanks!

As noted earlier, I had already set my inverter to 15A service. I did this in March, just after taking delivery, since I don’t have 30A at home. Today we tried running the Truma air conditioner on my brother’s outdoor 20A outlet. Surprisingly, it worked just fine! The ambient temperature was 75 degrees, and the thermostat was set at 66 degrees. The air conditioner was set on low mode. I didn’t try it on medium or high. Thanks for the input!

Hey, @Geronimo John, and welcome back to the contiguous 48! I hope your install goes well. Keep us posted. I think a few folks just used ez rv rain gutter to channel the water away. We did nothing on our 11.5. We use it so very seldom, figured we'd jack up the nose a bot and let the condensate run, when necessary.

You nailed it Steve. If you stand outside and listen to the difference between regular low and night mode, the outside unit is much quieter, can hardly hear it when the compressor comes on. Night mode I believe is more of a courtesy for the surrounding campers. And yes the unit draws the lowest amount of current while running on night mode. This greatly reduces the work load for a generator. It also allows the AC to run longer on the Lithium batteries if you are dry camping. Of course the AC also has a much reduced cooling capacity on night mode, but from my experimenting with the system, even on night mode the camper is able to be cooled to a lower temperature than I need. As I am typing this comment, the outside temp is 88 degrees in the shade. The temperature on the inside of the camper in direct sunlight is 64 degree inside, burrrrrrr. I have the thermostat set on 70 so as you can see, the Truma can really chill the camper down. The Truma AC unit gives us spectacular options with ample capacity for our campers. I love the fact that I can run the AC all night without being "that guy" in the campground. 😁

FYI, Just got my camping world flyer, Dometic Fresh jet 3 $1099. For club members and free shipping. That’s for the 13,500 BTU..they say that’s a $200.00 savings.. I,m not in market right now.. Happy& Safe Travels..Manny

I see that, now. Is it really almost 4000 watts to run it? Or is there some iso formula I don't know? They claim an eer of 8.2, so that would be more like 1650 watts running at 95 degrees? Which would be awesome.

When you get to Oliver talk with Jason Essary he was great answering all of our questions about the install. Safe Travels!

Hi @SeaDawg and @Geronimo John The units in the US are either 13500 or 15000 btu If you go to the beginning of this thread, there are spec sheets that I posted which I got from my tech.

That's a very good point. Has anyone seen the USA specs yet? Seems there are differences with the European and Australian units ( no heat in USA unit.)

Mobilejoy: We deferred our delivery date last year, and paid the premium, to get the Truma Aventa AC. It works well. But, I have no basis for comparing the Truma to a Dometic Freshjet. At this point, the Truma Aventa is a known performer. The Freshjet is not. And, it is a "Demonic" product, from a company that has been known to cut corners to improve the bottom line. In your shoes, I would keep my appointment with Oliver and pay the Truma premium. Once the Freshjet has a significant track record, my analysis may be different. That said, in Roadlotus' shoes, I would also keep the appointment for installation of a Freshjet. The travel to Hohenwald for a retrofit would be a "deal breaker" for me as well.

Hi @MobileJoy I won’t have the fresh jet installed for several weeks. So I can’t say either way what would be best. I live in California, so traveling to Tennessee, for the truma is not feasible. That’s why I was looking at the Houghton. The fresh jet is a new option that I hadn’t known about. But it looks good on paper. I guess I’m going to be the test case! Once it is installed, I can do a video on it and run a decibel meter if that would be helpful for folks. But right now it’s all speculation on my part. it sounds like both truma and the fresh jet have strong reviews so either one is probably a good choice. But we will see 🙂

I have been reading your postings, and I have an appointment with Oliver to install an Aventa in two weeks. It's easy to see how the Dometic Freshjet might be priced with installation at around half the price of the Truma. At this time, for me there are reasons to go with the Truma and there are reasons to wait. What makes the Truma Aventa (at a base price of around $2,000 plus $300 for the CP Plus panel plus the fiberglass support frame) worth paying for in light of this new $1K Dometic? I can see paying extra for a device that uses the existing condensate lines and has a supported installation from Oliver (as opposed to the Houghton which has neither). What else makes the Truma worth the extra $$$? The Truma website says it has rethought air conditioning and is not like traditional air conditioners. It provides a balance between coolness and dehumidification so as to achieve an optimum comfort level. Do you feel (disregarding noise level) that your comfort has significantly improved? Having owned and operated an Aventa Eco, are there any reasons in your opinion to prefer the Truma over the Freshjet? It's easy to see that at this price point Oliver could eventually switch their default AC to the new one, and possibly offer an upgrade path as well. If this happens, it doesn't bode well for the Truma unless there is another really good reason to offer it.

The charge voltage value you entered is incorrect. The batteries do not charge at 120 volts. 120 volts is the nominal AC (alternating current) shore power input voltage to the trailer. The battery charger converts that AC voltage to DC voltage (direct current) for charging the batteries. Lithium ion batteries charge at around 14.25 to 14.7 volts DC. Enter that value. Charging current (amps) is equal to the charging wattage divided by the charging voltage. THEORETICALLY 2000 watts available divided by a 14.5 volt DC charging voltage is 138 amps DC, but the batteries and/or the battery charger have a charge current limit setting. So they typically do not allow that high of a charge current. For example, the BattleBorn batteries I’ve been considering for an upgrade have a maximum charge current limit of 50 amps DC. So at a 14.5 volt DC charging voltage that means it’ll only be using 725 watts. A 2000 watt generator is overkill for just charging batteries, but overkill is good, it means the generator won’t be working as hard.

I was using this tool ordered from Amazon. The order of wires is actually on the tool itself, easy to identify. I'd recommend buying extra Cat 5 and RJ45 connectors and practicing on those first before cutting the actual Starlink cable. That what I did and I had no experience with this before. There are lots of videos on YouTube. The difficulty for me was fishing the cable through the attic space due to tight space but it wasn't that bad. Good luck!

I did cut the cable. For the length, I measured the distant from ceiling to the bottom of the trailer plus the width of the trailer and gave it about a few feet of slack. It wasn't too bad fishing the cable down. I basically followed the existing satellite coax cable. I imaging it would be very easy if I used one of those fish tape but I didn't.

The Ollie bracket is structural aluminum, probably 6061T6 or similar, the same stuff used in the frame and steps. You can tell by how very thick the plates are and by the welds, they are big and sloppy looking compared to steel welds. Those particular welds are a little nasty, but they are fine in terms of strength. I suspect your Starlink mount is powder coated aluminum. You could email SL to ask. But since you didn’t have to disturb the coating (drill new holes) it should be fine. The shipping weight is 1.4 pounds, it can’t be a steel part: From your pics it appears that you live in a dry climate. If you lived in a wet one, I would recommend sealing the bracket really well. Corrosion can occur even when the materials are similar. I can’t tell from the images, it appears that the tube is wide open at the bottom. If not you need to drill a drain hole. Nice mod, I quite like it. It is clean and highly professional looking. John Davies Spokane WA

I finished the roof mount over the weekend. Luckily, it was super easy than I thought. The 2 holes of the Starlink short wall mount fit perfectly into the existing awning screws on my Girard. I am not very tall, 5'4", and need a ladder or climb the rear bumper to connect/disconnect the dish. I always take the dish downs when towing. Question: should I be worried about galvanic corrosion. I don't know what kind of metal the mount is but the awning bracket looks like a stainless steel? The installation manual, Short_Wall_Mount_Guide_Rectangular.pdf.pdf, doesn't say much about the mount itself.

Nice writeup, thanks for posting all the pics! Cracked or broken gelcoat is due to an undersized hole or not heavily countersinking it before driving in the screw. Both are due to sloppy work….. Another option for access is to remove either of the two round red reflectors that are just above the ends of the sewer compartment. They aren't very visible anyway. I ran wires for my rear bike rack aux lighting that way. Some of the factory wiring is a little unsightly, isn’t it?😢 John Davies Spokane WA