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I push down the pedal with my foot but NEVER let it snap back up. I agree with you, that might be asking for trouble!

Lubec Maine, Sunset Point RV Park; Most Easterly Campground in the U.S. Great Campground. In town, there is a short bridge to Campobello Island in New Brunswick where FDR had his 34 room summer cottage. Very Interesting to hear the history of the Roosevelt House and the family. Sunset Point RV Park The Roosevelt 34 Room Summer Cottage

Actually they are called "scupper" holes or drains. These serve a couple of purposes: 1 - they "vent" the area between the inner and outer hulls. Any condensation that might form between the inner and outer hulls will either drain or be evaporated due to increased air movement from these. Actually when you are driving down the road these cause a "venturi" effect which actually draws air/moisture out from the hulls. 2 - they allow for the draining of any "leaks" that might occur. In turn, this reduces the chances of mold or mildew that might be caused by any water collected within the inner and outer hulls. If you ever actually see any liquid draining from these scuppers, it would be advisable to search for the cause of that as soon as possible. Bill

I use the EEZTIRE TPMS. But most of these are very similar. The "recommended interval" for changing the batteries is one year. But, I simply leave mine until I start to get a loss of signal notification. Since I always carry spare batteries with me while on the road it is simple to change them. Note that I also remove the wheel sensors and batteries when I am not planning on using my Ollie for a month or so. Even though the sensors should not be transmitting a signal when there isn't movement in the wheel, I feel better knowing that the contacts are not being subjected to humidity, heat, cold, etc. On another note - I have never needed a booster for the EEZTIRE transmitter. However, these signals that are being sent from these small transmitters can experience some loss of signal during very wet weather, snow, and heavy traffic. In addition, depending on the types of things that are being carried in both the tow vehicle an/or the Oliver, signals can be weakened. Bill

Our batteries last quite a while, much more than a year. I have replaced each of them a couple of times over the years but not more than that. It’s always been while camping! I don’t think there’s any drain on them if we’re not moving or if the display is off. We’ve been traveling around East Tennessee and Kentucky the last few weeks, beautiful time of the year here. Hopefully when we get home to Texas the cooler October weather will be there. Mike

On older Oliver trailers with lead acid batteries (before the lithium battery option availability) the black wire on the trailer 7 pin harness is the charge wire for the batteries and it IS a direct connection to the positive side of the battery bank (through a 20 amp in-line breaker, see wiring diagram). So that wire/pin on the 7 pin trailer plug connector is energized with 12 volts from the trailer batteries, and that connection allows the trailer batteries to be charged from the tow vehicle while driving. And it is per the SAE standard. It worked with the old Olivers like mine with lead acid wet cell batteries because the tow vehicle alternator charging voltage was sufficient for lead acid batteries, but not with lithium batteries, so Oliver now disconnects that wire on newer trailers with lithium batteries.

Yes a zamp port, I checked myself and it’s 20A, although the 2023 owners manual shows it to be a 15A fuse. I checked with Jason and he confirmed they install a 20A fuse, here’s his response…. “Yes, the plant installs a 15a fuse for the solar. The wire for the port is a 10ga wire capable of 30a. The largest portable solar panel option we currently have is a 230w system and the 15a fuse will cover that system. I typically have my team use a 20a fuse because I am looking more toward the future of what system might be available later. Technically as long as the wire is fused below its 30a max it is ok as the fuse is only protecting the wire.”

Thanks @John Welte, @Mike and Carol and @topgun2. There are several reasons why I'm interested in the new Dill product, vs. TST and other like products. The Dill sensor is installed in the tire on an integrated valve stem vs. small plastic valve-stem-cap devices mounted outside in the elements. Dill sensors, like OEM automotive sensors, advertise a 5 to 7-year battery life. So, you replace the batteries when you replace tires every 5-7 years. Another feature is not having to mount and wire a proprietary screen! Just read the tire data from your cell phone. Soon I will be mounting a small screen for gauges integrated to the truck computer (OBD II port), to read EGT on the diesel, trans temp, and much more! I have a good place to mount that, down behind the cup holder and really do not want anything on the dashboard. Full specs are not yet out on this new product, to be released by October end, but you must be setup a cell phone alert when tire pressure or temp is outside of control limits. Having the data view portable will also be handy when filling tires. I'm holding off on my new tire purchase until these are released, price and full specs advertised.

Same here, Brian. We sold our (2nd) AS to a cool couple from Temecula, CA in early 21. We had over 75k miles on that one and heavily modified it to meet our style of "travel trailering". The next major upgrade was to be the replacement of the banana wrap and belly panels - we didn't want to go there. So, we sold it and started learning about Olivers. We had a Casita for a year before we bought Casablanca - although there are a few features of the AS we miss, we are 100% happy with Hull #226.

And - this is why in at least one video by Jason Essary (Service Manager) he recommends that owners disconnect this plug from the tow vehicle when stopped for over a few hours. This is due to the fact that even while the tow vehicle is shut off the Oliver batteries can still draw power from the tow vehicle and, therefore deplete the tow vehicle battery. Bill

Same here. We’ve used TST for 7 years, no booster.

Please post your trailer information, year and model. Also add your electrical systems info (inverter model, batteries, etc.). When on shore power, does your refrigerator work when AC power is selected? The fridge circuit is direct to a breaker (no GFCI), so if it does maybe your GFCI has failed.

The first picture is from the 2017 Oliver LEII manual and the second is from etrailer.com. Both indicate that the black wire is the hot/charge wire. Mossey

Ours sold a year ago in Aug and I was very sad to see it go! I have missed certain aspects of it ever since but we are happy with our '23 LEII. Brian

We've been doing similar for 15 years. Different toilet. I think this is inherent to a particular model.

This also happened to me when I flushed the toilet not realizing the pipes were still frozen. Non replicable part. I first tried to glue it with a special "epoxy plastic glue". Worked for about three days. Did the same as others and ordered a new toilet, scavenged the useful parts I needed and discarded the rest of the toilet (what a waste for such a small part) After discussing the problem with a friend, he suggested searching the web for a 3D printing file of the part. He mentioned a lot of small parts like this get scanned and the files are posted to the web. Then one can have it printed locally (or he offered to do it for me) I know nothing of 3D printing how it works or what it takes to create a file for a small part but if someone had the knowledge and resources to create such a file, they would be making an immense contribution to mankind; or at least to those of us who had to learn the art of hand flushing the toilet.

Be careful if a shutdown happens it can close National Parks Oct 1. We are heading to mighty 5 in Utah soon and the Utah Governor stated yesterday that Utah plans to keep their NP’s open by paying the operating costs from Utahs budget. 90% of Utahs campgrounds are Federal Parks and many communities rely on camping public to survive.

😂

As long as the Dill will alarm even if the app isn’t being displayed on your phone. I have the separate TST monitor but don’t look at it much after we’re under way. If something is wrong it will alarm, otherwise I pretty much ignore it. The Dill sounds pretty nice, will be interested in how you like it. Mike

Sounds interesting. The main thing is to have a tpms with the trailer and you're doing that with this new product. 5-7 year battery life sounds great. John

With regards to see an Oliver - you might want to send a private message to Boudicca908. I know that as of last week that Oliver was in your area. Good Luck! Bill

On my Elite II, the 20 amp breaker is under the street side bed. It’s covered by a red rubber cover. It’s a self resetting breaker, but you can disconnect the black wire that comes from the 7 pin harness. And I get all the electrical/plumbing diagrams from the Oliver university resource on this website. It has manuals by year for the trailers.

We did this mod without knowing it was already posted! Our exception was utilizing 12lb double sided tape and black 10" locking drawer slides. The tape (from local ACE Hardware) was the thinnest we could find in the weight capacity I was looking for. It's installed on both the slide base and the bottom of the countertop. I was concerned about it floating too high above the base but it closes up nicely and is not noticeable. Not concerned about pulling them off as all the force is lateral and not expecting any weight bearing for the tabletop once slid out. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GJMLDPL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

The Airstream sold today. We had a lot of fun with our Desert Tortoise, but it was sad to see it go.

It appears that 12VDC is back-feeding from the battery out to the plug. Getting shocked there would mean you'd also have to be touching the ground wire, the frame or the basket as well. @mossemi Check one of your wiring diagrams and see if the black wire from the 7-pin doesn't run directed to the battery. It probably does not currently, but I think it did in some of the earlier builds.

As a slight aside, because the solar panel connected to the "solar port" has its own controller and is wired directly to the batteries, whatever amperage input they provide will not be included in the total received over any given period of time. This is because their added input is not included in the calculations done in the main controller and displayed on whatever monitor you are using. Some simple rewiring can easily remedy that problem.

We had an electric fireplace in our last fifth wheel. I thought it was silly, but it was a standard feature. Turned out, we really liked it. It was basically an electric space heater, so it was good to take the edge off on a chilly night if we had hookups. And the fake fire glow was actually kind of nice. 🙂 Here's another article from the same source, this one a review of the production Cortes units. Saw a couple of those at our local dealer this summer. https://www.theautopian.com/this-new-fiberglass-camper-has-some-great-ideas-wrapped-in-terrible-marketing/

Doesn't matter if e1 or e2 , I think the zamp port is simply separate,,goes straight to the battery, and "should" have a 10 amp fuse. Wiring"assumes"a suitcase solar, with separate controller, for portables. What's on the roof is pretty much irrelevant. Different circuit. The zamp port goes directly to battety. Solar panels go to controller. The twain don't meet. And, yes, zamp port is wired backwards, from sae standard. once you get the fuse installed, you'll need to rewire your portable , or purchase an an adapter to reverse polarity. Only zam p (that I know of) works this way. Best of luck

OOPS! It has been brought to my attention (thanks Mossemi) that you have an Elite I. Therefore, my "confusion" is somewhat mollified.🤪 Bill

For those not wanting to drill so many holes on your future installs, I strongly suggest using 3M VHB tapes (use only 3M brand tapes). 3M model 4950 is white, just over 1mm thick, and comes in 1/2", 3/4" and 1" widths. The 1/2" should be perfect for this fan. Clean surfaces with rubbing alcohol. Cut several 1" lengths and position them around the perimeter of the fan where it contacts the roof. The rain guard would only need a few pieces of tape. No butyl tape on this install, finish with a bead of white silicone caulk around the fan. I do not suggest caulking the rain guard, in fact I might not install the rain guard, as I believe this part is intended for wall mounting (solid on top and vented below). Amazon.com: 3M - 1/2-5-4950 VHB 4950 Heavy Duty Mounting Tape - 0.5 in. x 15 ft. Permanent Bonding Tape Roll with Acrylic Foam Core. Tapes and Adhesives : Industrial & Scientific VHB tape is way, WAY STRONGER than any kind of screws into fiberglass. I used this tape to connect the solar panel brackets to fiberglass roof on my old Bigfoot Class-C, with no screws at all. These large panels were very heavy, and never failed. I did use double mounting brackets (8/panel vs. the standard 4), given the size of the panels. Overlap Shear Strength of the 4950 tape is 80 lb./in², which is a whole lot of pressure. Your fan and rain guard will hold strong, I promise! Thanks @SeaDawg and @MAX Burner as I used your links and just purchased one for a future install. When I get around to this job, end of a very long list, I'll post the 3M VHB installation version!

@Jav8or Welcome to the forum and thanks for your first post. Maybe introduce your self and let us know what tow vehicle, year Oliver and Hull# you own so we can help you better. I have the 3200i and installed it in the our Oliver cargo basket in a custom lock down security basket crafted specific to the 3200i. Between the the gen security mount and the cargo basket I custom cut and installed 3/4” rubber horse stall mat from Tractor Supply. It really helps isolate the engine vibration from the gen when running on high. You did not say where you place the gen while you are running it? Is it in the cargo basket? If so you will need the rubber isolator that I mentioned at a minimum. The rubber feet on the gen are not substantial enough to isolate the vibs when running the gen in normal mode. We don’t experience excessive vibration that you mention when running the gen on high with the rubber mat installed. We really like our 3200i and how it is custom installed, we don’t leave home without it. We have already used it when we experienced a power outage at a CG last summer. It’s a game changer. See link below. Patriot🇺🇸

Our 311 came with a chintzy light weight lid that just feels "cheep". Know what I'm saying? I'm liking the concept of a HD/slow closing lid - can that part be ordered separately from Dometic?

I passed an Oliver in GTNP on Tuesday 9/26 — they were heading south on the road. No opportunity to catch their state or identification, but it made me smile, to see another Oliver, looking good rambling down the road!

Several have had the flush shaft break. Several posts on that topic. For a 25 cent part we get to replace our entire toilet. Not an impressive Dometic decision not to stock basic repair parts for ALL their toilets. GJ

Just got back from a 2,000 loop around the west (California to Nevada to Idaho to Montana to Washington and then back home). I've had my Ollie for about two years and first ran the tires at 65 psi for the first year. Then in the second year, I ran them at about 60 psi. On this trip I ran them at about 55 psi. I've not noticed a change in mileage or handling or wheel temps (100 to 120 degrees) or anything in this unorganized and unscientific test. So, I think I'll keep them at 55 from now on. Oh, and for those interested I averaged 15-16 mpg on this trip.

In order to clarify this statement - Most (if not all) TPMS systems will alert you to "issues" with a tire - such as sudden loss of pressure, or pressures or temperatures that are outside of a predetermined range that you set. And, the TPMS system that integrates with the Ford system and screen will do this too as I assume that the other truck makers do. However, I've found an unexpected plus to having the stand alone monitor is that I'll watch it keeping an eye on the relative differences between tire temp and tire pressure under varying road and climate conditions. All things being equal - tires running on a concrete road will have a lower temperature and pressure than those running on a black asphalt road on a sunny day. smooth road. Generally, the same statement is true for a rough surfaced road versus a smooth road. So, how does one decide on what tire pressure is correct for their particular trailer? In the pages of this Forum there have been many posts that flat out state that one should NEVER have tire pressures under "X" or above "Y". These statements may or may not be correct for the particular trailer the poster is referring to under the conditions that they normally drive - or even those conditions that may be encountered from time to time. Trailer weight, the roads that are normally driven or even specifically driven, the speeds at which they drive, the weather, etc., etc. all influence the decision as what tire pressures are appropriate for any given situation. Indeed, many of these posters will "admit" to "airing down" for those times when they travel on rough (dirt) roads. This is done for basically two reasons: 1 - for better traction; 2 - softer ride. Interestingly, this is one of the same problems that we are all trying to solve when deciding what our "normal" or "regular" tire pressure will be. We don't want to have such a high pressure in the tires such that they are like (to borrow an oft used statement) rocks. Nor do we want a tire with such low tire pressure as to cause it to heat up too much in "normal" driving. By keeping an eye on my tire pressures while also seeing the tire's temperature I can make a rough judgement as to when or why a tire is reacting to any particular situation. For instance (for my Ollie loaded for a "normal" camping trip), I will set my tire pressures at 60psi. But, the weather changes and/or one of the main roads I'm traveling has been repaved from concrete to fresh black asphalt and I note that my tires are increasing more than about 1 psi for every 10 degrees increase in air temp. Depending on how long or how severe this situation might continue, I might decide to add 3 or 4 psi. This is a bit counter intuitive but note that a harder tire (more psi) will have less rolling resistance and therefore run cooler than a softer tire. Another way of thinking about this is that a softer tire (less psi) will have more surface of the tire on the road and will "squirm" or "flex" more thus causing more friction and thus more heat. Over time I have been able to predict (generally speaking) what tire pressures are about right for me and my Ollie. But, just because I chose to run my tires at a certain pressure does not mean that this is the correct pressure for your Ollie in any given situation. We all want as soft a ride as possible while at the same time we want good traction, high tire mileage and most of all safety. By having the information provided by a TPMS we not only increase our immediate safety but we also obtain information from which we can make informed decisions as to satisfying some of the other conditions present when operating in a constantly changing environment. Bill

I have the TST also and monitor all eight tires. Four on the TV and the four on the trailer. It came with the repeater, but it hasn't been necessary. It does take about five minutes to start registering on the display, but after it does, it cycles through all the tires. It gives great peace of mind. John

TPMS is the first thing we install on every trailer. Learned the hard way with trailer #1.

Well, that was a PITA. So sorry., but really glad for the persistent motorist who alerted you to the flat tire. We have the TST tpms system. Though we haven't needed the repeater, there is one available to boost the signal forward to the display unit if needed. I think a few other brands sell a booster or repeater, as well.

We had almost the exact same encounter with a blowout about 12 years ago in FL traveling on a secondary road at about 45mph. At the time we didn't own a standalone TPMS. We didn't realize the right side rear tire blew until we pulled over at a convenience store for a pee - walking back to the rig we saw what looked like a "ghost tire" (formerly a Goodyear Marathon) with only the radial material left on the rim. With a TPMS (which we've had ever since), at least would have known when it blew and proceeded accordingly rather than driving for an unknown distance on 3 good wheels/tires. Glad no injuries ensued....

I've been banned from shopping at one of out local Walmart's here in town. About 6 months ago I was in Walmart buying a large bag of Purina dog food for my beautiful Doberman, Reacher, which weighed 110 lbs. I was in the check-out line when a woman behind me asked if I had a dog. I wondered what she thought I had. So, because I'm retired and have little to do, on impulse, I told her that no, I didn't have a dog, I was starting the Purina Diet again. I explained to her that it was the Perfect Diet. Dog food is nutritionally complete and contains all the nutrients, protein, vitamins and minerals to adequately sustain a large carnivore for a lifetime. I added that the last time, it had worked really well and that I'd lost 50 pounds. Since I had gained back some weight lately, I had decided to give it another go. I told her the way that it works is, to load your jacket pockets with Purina Nuggets and simply eat one or two every time you feel hungry. Further, I told her that I knew I probably shouldn't do this, because the last time, I ended up in the hospital. I explained that I had awakened in the intensive care unit with tubes coming out of most of my orifices and IV's in both arms. (I need to mention here that practically everyone in the checkout line was now enthralled with my story.) Horrified, she asked if I had ended up in intensive care, because the dog food had poisoned me. I told her no, I had stopped to pee on a Fire Hydrant and a car hit me.

I know many are aware of the LE2 giveaway in support of the Tennessee Wildlife Resource Agency, but I was unaware of their appearance on the cover of the state published hunting guide. Just wanted to share this with anyone interested. https://www.tn.gov/content/dam/tn/twra/documents/guide/TN-Hunting-Guide.pdf

This gave me a chuckle!

What's to not trust? A green 18 years old kid entrusted with a lug wrench - what could go wrong?😆 Bill

Also, a TPMS will let you know right away what your pressures are!

I took my Oliver in for service at the highest recommended local place (I'm so far from Oliver).... and when I got home I found that they had inflated the tires to the max. This is just a reminder to check the pressures, if you've had your Oliver serviced 'elsewhere'.

I thought it may be useful to some viewing the Campground Forum to check out our web page for Hull 505 - Galway Girl. (Our domain name is 4-Ever-Hitched.com) Hull 505 - Galway Girl - 4-Ever-Hitched Website In our website we feature links to pages that include: 1) Trip to Factory - Describes the trip from WA to Hohenwald 2) Picking up our Trailer - Shows Delivery Day and Camping on the way home, includes maps and names of Campgrounds 3) Around the Northwest - Campground maps, pictures of sites, and links to various parks sites we've visited in the Pacific NW. (Updated Each Trip) 4) Blogs - in this we show repairs, updates we've done to our Elite II. (Updated as they happen.) Finally, there are links to the Amazon Oliver Trailer Outfitters List to post of handy items we and other's have purchased for use with their Olivers. Craig & Rose Short Owners: Hull 505 - Galway Girl Everett, WA

I have the Oliver-installed solar panels on the roof. Taped a block of foam to each corner of the panels to avoid a sharp edge against the cover. It’s honestly a little too wide as it’s intended for the more standard 8 foot width but the length is just right. The included straps under the trailer pull it sung

Stepped on our Dometic 311 flush valve and it popped off. Upon inspection the flush mechanism can be worked by hand (eew) but it sheared the center pivot shaft. Dometic said…no part for that…so I have a new toilet on order to be delivered to our RV park while we are in Moab this week. I’ll paste in pix of the repair later on this thread. Anyone else had that flush (step on) mechanism shear off?