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Also received this from Mike at Oliver Service; more quality speedy customer service. ELITE 2 MODELS INLINE FUSES ARE LOCATED UNDER THE DRIVER SIDE BED ACCESS PANEL

The problem you encountered is one of the reasons that some people use one of THESE versus trying to use the SeeLevel system. One of these flow monitors also reduces the need for running back and forth from outside to inside and back again. Glad the "overflow" wasn't too bad for you. Bill

I’m here at the mothership, happily handing my Oliver into the care of the service department. I’ll give an update on the propane leak, once they determine the cause. When I pulled in last night, I noticed that four of us here hailed from all four corners of the US: Oregon, Maine, Florida and one bound for Palm Springs. I also discovered that Paula & Will from Maine are the current owners of the first Oliver I toured in Punta Gorda Florida — previously owned by Robert and Sue. What are the odds?!

Wow that is so much better than what you started with. I like your solutions far better than the previous owner's method. And the extremely clean and proper connections are very well thought out considering the objective and the budget considerations. I think a lot of folks tried to help, but as you stated it truly falls on the owner to make the hard choices. You obviously had a mental picture of where you needed to end up. Often when trouble shooting folks start making assumptions and end up way off course. I think you went about working the problem in a very logical and practical way. Now the question remains, have all your objectives been met? I'm guessing you are much closer. Well done. 👍

It’s in that area where your inverter is under the steet side bed (front).

This post is offered in the hope it will help someone else avoid my dumb mistake. It has been my practice to flush the black tank after dumping using the black tank flush inlet port below the bathroom window. I carry a separate black-colored hose just for this purpose. In the past, I have always left the black tank drain valve open when flushing. At the conclusion of our most recent camping trip, after a first flush with the drain valve open, it occurred to me that I might get a more complete flush if I mostly filled the black tank with clean water through the flush port first (which required that I close the black tank drain valve) then let gravity force the contents of the mostly full tank out the drain. To avoid overflowing the black tank, I carefully watched the Seelevel monitor, then ran outside to turn off the hose bib when the Seelevel black tank monitor hit 90%. I then opened the black tank drain valve to drain the black tank contents. Out of an abundance of caution, I decided to verify that this process had caused no overflow from the black tank. I removed the access cover from the front dinette seat so I could see the aft part of the black tank. Good thing I checked! When I saw a few tablespoons of water in the bottom of the trailer just aft of the black tank, I realized that our Seelevel monitor is not 100% accurate, and that even though I turned off the hose bib when it read 90%, the black tank was actually full of water! Fortunately, the overflow was limited to a few tablespoons, which were quickly mopped up. When I got home, I sprayed that area, twice, with Lysol disinfectant spray, in case that bit of water leakage was contaminated. The moral of the story: when flushing the black tank, always leave the drain valve open. Fortunately, my momentary lapse of judgment (it seemed like a good idea at the time...) occurred after a complete drain, then a first flush with the drain valve open. So, the minimal overflow should have been mostly clean water, which was easily dealt with. I expect it would never occur to most people to leave the black tank drain valve closed to mostly fill the black tank when flushing, just to get a more complete cleaning. But if any of you folks, like me, ever think of trying that method: don't! It's not worth the risk of an overflow.

To start… but being in the same place on the same day, one hailing from Maine and the other from Southwest Florida, seems remarkable.

And - isn't THAT all that matters? Bill

In addition to using the Rhino Extreme hose, I never lay it across the ground, where a gravel rock or some other sharp object could puncture the stinky slinky. instead, I cradle it in one of those gradually descending support structures, such as the Camco Sidewinder 20-Ft Camper/RV Sewer Hose Support which can also be useful for routing around obstacles.

Today I learned that some people have "liked" some of my posts. (OK, I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer, I guess. 🙂 ) So, I went back and mindlessly, belatedly clicked TY for each of the replies I've received. Believe me, every word is very much appreciated as we prepare to take this leap.

Absolutely @topgun2! We dumped this AM at the house after returning from Mexico yesterday PM... We've always released a small amount of grey water before dumping the good stuff. It may also assist in moving the black effluent down what would otherwise be a dry hose. With the OTT wastewater holding tank flushing feature, (we didn't have this in our previous RV) we're now in the habit of running a wastewater holding tank full of freshwater to dump through the hose after the gray water's been eliminated. A final step that seems to work for us - on many levels. HA!

Funny thing is I already have six apps to monitor systems on our Oliver and for the most part they are on the phone just in case. I really don't do very much with them other than take a look once in a while. Having the GX Cerbo sounds nice but the stuff I monkey with the most are already on the Truma control. So like the inverter/charger, it would really just be a replacement. I do love the Victron equipment and also wouldn't be surprised if Oliver continues to move that way in the future.

Same here, was also thinking of switching to the Victron Multiplus, but 5 months in and so far happy with the Xantrex. Like @Ollie-Haus will keep it until it dies. I do like the Victron multiplies power assist feature, ie. If more power is needed to run devices that is available from shore power, the Multiplus can pull the additional power from the battery bank, and add that power to the under performing shore power connection…..like so beautifully explained in the attached video by Nate from Exploristlife! And of course you cannot set up a network with the Xantrex and GX Cerbo

I agree that all pex fittings should be brass from the factory, but shark-bite fittings are 10x the cost. They don't work any better than the crimp-on's, they are just easier for the not-so-handy owners without every tool known to man and the know how to use them.

Lots and lots of RVers do what you did - close the valve to put some water in the tank with the rinser. I do. Many have reported similar, and worse (much worse), results. Glad you didn't create a rooftop fountain or toilet gusher as others have.

Your initial reason for closing the black tank drain valve is a good one. Your down fall was relying on the electronic gauges. My process is to stand on the toilet tank flush valve and to observe the water level in the black tank while flushing. The advantage of my 2018 OE2 is that it has a manual water shut off valve just a few feet from the toilet (Under the front dinette seat). This allows me to slow down the fill rate as the level in the black tank approaches full. Then when nearly full, I turn off the water flow at our valve. Sadly, OTT decided to not install said shut off valve on newer models. GJ

Too long ago now for me to remember lol, sorry!

I like the idea of spot facing the copper bars where needed. I also like the flanged nuts. If you could spot face a large enough area to allow for the flanged nuts on the battery studs that wouldn't be a bad idea. Like your idea and I too would run a test period to find out where you stand now. Knowing your connections are improved, any other issues could be traced to their true source. Electrical troubleshooting can be challenging. Here's an example. We had a relatively new front load washing machine, you know, the kind that have a hundred bells and whistles. The kind the average Joe can't work on. Just out of warranty I got an error code on the screen that indicated a failed main control board. You're talking $300 plus for the part. I was doing a little research and stumbled onto a discussion about failures due to poor connections on the connector plugs on the boards. The solution was to pull all the connections, clean inside the tiny spring sockets, clean all the wire pins on the board side, use a micro screwdriver to bend the inside of the plug socket contacts to increase their "squeeze" on the wire pins when plugged in, and finally smear a thin layer of dielectric grease on the contact surfaces. Sounds like a lot but actually took 20-30 minutes to do to all the plugs. Reassembled and tested. All was well and no more failures for the 5 years following the "repair". The new owners are still using the same washer and dryer. Now when I'm trouble shooting electrical, especially the new stuff with built in diagnostics, I always start by checking all connections and improving as described above to eliminate false error codes.

Dang! I missed that part. Perhaps I'll have to change today's schedule and run out to get one before they are all gone.😇

Let’s not hear complaints, after all… it’s Lippert, and it’s on “sale”. 😳

I haven't purchased any of these waste hoses in awhile - but - they sure seem to be "proud" of this one. Bill

I transitioned from Rhino Extreme with twist-on lug fittings to Waste Master with CAM lock fittings. I didn’t like the way the Rhino would ‘snake’ and expand in length when dumping, and carrying two 10’ sections, just in case extra length was needed, was a tight fit in the rear compartment. The WM 20’ hose is more robust and smoother inside for better flow and ease of cleaning, compresses to ~5’, holds the desired extended length when setup; and has a clear view port, 90° discharge with a handle, control valve and rubber doughnut at its’ terminus.

We’ve been traveling for 2 years now and this is the first time for us…a full size , 2 axle tiny home. Not sure how it fit through the entry gate at the start of the loop. (Height restriction) We’re at Lake Pleasant Regional County Park (Nw of Pheonix) A bigger truck pulled through the campground and dropped off a tiny home…then left. The owners showed up soon after in a car and are setting up. Quite a nice view for them out back.

A couple i knew in college is living in one of those up in either Washington or Oregon. They can be pretty pretty swanky inside.

no problem 🙂

Thank you so much @Ollie-Haus! I also placed ribbed rubber toolbox liner under the batteries for cushion, came up with a better solution to fill the 3/8" extra depth in the box. Looking again at my pics, on next maintenance, I may drill a recess in the copper bars where they mount to the battery posts, so that I can mount the nuts deeper so that all threads are holding strong. First, we may just take an outing to see how this install holds up. Thanks again

I usually have it at 7 or 8 threads

That is what I replaced “old leaky” with.

We have the same stove. Our solution is to carry a 5 lb “gas growler” in a padded case to run the stove. I also use it with the Camp Chef flattop - sometimes it’s just easier than trying to T off the tank prior to the regulator. Of course - that’s likely because I have an LE I with the smaller propane doghouse on the front. 🙂 Not much space to put a splitter before the regulator.

Another vote for Garmin InReach. In addition to being able to send a SOS to the InReach response center in an emergency, the two way communication path works well to let others know where you are, and what your status is. Your contacts can also reach out to you if there is an urgent matter at their end. You can send and receive messages via SMS email, cell phones, and other InReach devices. There are canned messages, as well as the ability to send your own text. When paired with a Bluetooth device, it’s easier to use. We have the older InReach Explorer+, our subscription is $12/month.

Always had good luck with Iridiums. They're a bit spendy but the plans are fairly reasonable. With a clear view to the southern sky, I've had reasonable contacts on the opposite of the globe - easy peasy.

Same story, the waste hose shredded on a cold day last January returning from Oliver. Luckily the Oliver supplied waste hose came in two section and we could utilize the second section. We then replaced the hose with a Rhino and that's been working fine. We have a composting toilet and are very happy with that decision.

I hope you are joking about using that antifreeze tester in your batteries. John Davies Spokane WA

To be on the safe side, check with Oliver. I believe if you have LIthium batteries, yes you need to make the adjustment on #28, and set it to 20 amp in your case.

I have mine plugged into a receptacle in the garage. It has a 20amp breaker. We dont turn anything on except the lights occasionally and the heater pad in the winter. I use the adapter to attach to our 30 amp cable Oliver provided. Should I adjust the setting on #28 to 15 since we have a 20 amp breaker?

I'm remembering a few months back, when we first joined this forum, you remarked that our Olivers were cousins. Old is good, or we're in trouble. I'm married to an old girl, she's wonderful and I can't live a day without her! And we have two old girls in Hulls 113 and 117, ours perhaps a few days older! It seems @SeaDawg understood my question. Her reply was exactly what I was looking for! Nothing wrong with the batteries or connections. There are odd posts for the main cable connections to the TT (see close-up pic). Thinking I should remove these tall bolts. Could this be original?