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UPDATE: The 500-mile torque inspection was actually a 527-mile torque inspection at a QT in Wichita Falls. The process is now taking only a couple minutes longer than it takes to fill up our 30+gallon tank in the Tundra. Still amazed how the new U-bolts stretch - each nut took several quarter turns to reach the target torque value! We'll be check them every 1k miles for a while. Interesting Side Note: Speaking with Mike/Alcan yesterday on a particular boring stretch of HWY 287 somewhere near Electra, TX, we learned how springs are "weight rated." Evidently, there are several algorithms used by spring manufacturers that rate springs once several parameters are uploaded. Keep in mind that ll algorithms are not exactly the same - some are more accurate than others. Values for steel type, width, thickness, alignment pin size, eye-to-eye length, etc., all determine the weight rating. Alcan uses a highly rated program with a reputation in the industry as being very accurate. Turns out that virtually all RV manufacturers, industry-wide, use spring packs that either just barely meet RVIA standards or don't meet them at all (depending on the algorithm program used to rate the springs). When Alcan ran the dimensions of the Chinese-made AXLE TEK spring used on my Oliver, it was "quite a bit less than the rated 1,750# target", according to Mike. IMO, this issue goes back to DEXTER and not necessarily Oliver - because, as I understand - but could be wrong, the axle kit (including the spring packs) are supplied by DEXTER. But even if the AXLE TEK spring packs were tested to and achieved the 1,750# target at manufacturing, after some time (not necessarily road miles, but age) - those springs will flatten (all 4 of our's did) and they will not be able to meet the target rating going forward. This is due largely to the low quality metallurgy of Chinese steel. Labor costs, environmental regulations, and manufacturing standards in China are much less, if exist at all, as compared to the US steel industry. With a suspension travel of barely 2" (just measured it) before the top of the U-bolts smack into the my Oliver's aluminum frame, I want to be sure the springs are doing what they are there to do. So owners that find themselves crawling around underneath their rigs, this is another inspection point - if your suspension ever "bottomed-out" it will leave an imprint on the frame from the top of the U-bolt. That's a good indicator your spring-packs have flattened and need attention. Also IMO, the choice between Chinese-made and US-made leaf springs for travel trailers depends on the specific needs and priorities of the manufacturer or end-user, including considerations of cost, quality, and supply chain reliability. For businesses emphasizing cost control, the Chinese-made springs may be appealing, whereas for those prioritizing quality, safety, and supporting domestic industries, US-made spring packs might be the preferred option. So, mindful owners should think about: (1) having their running gear/suspension inspected, and/or (2) upgrading their suspensions if needed, or (3) never approaching their 7k# OTT max GVWR, or (4) towing slowly only on pristine roads, or (5) not worrying about it and see what happens down the road. Sorry in advance for my rant, it's just my $0.02...

Looks like you have two bolts on each panel, so it would be a tough change up to allow you any way to lift one side of the panel. Our earlier mounts were from am solar. You could send them a pic in an email, and discuss other options. Great folks. Always helpful. We have one bolt (on a threaded knob) on each short side of our panels. If it's any comfort to you, we rarely adjust the panels. Too much ladder work, unless we're in a spot for a very long time. Adding in some portable solar is a much easier, and safer/ground level, alternative. That's our solution, anyway.

I used a number of sika products, building our house. I don't think I'd try 221 on an Oliver, as I "think" it's greatest use is metal to metal. I'm sure sika has an appropriate product in their lineup. It's a great company. 291 would probably work, but it's an adhesive/sealant, possibly close to 3m 4200. Requires extensive mechanical removal. Polyurethane , elastic. So good for movement. But, replacement, if and when necessary, could be a lot of work. We went with a polyether product, loctite marine fast cure, several years ago, for boats and the Ollie. So far, so good. I think we're 4 years in. Stays white. Decent flex. If you buy from Lowe's or Depot, make sure you read the date code. And, use it all up. It doesn't last long. Not cheap, either, but longevity vs initial price is important to us. The Loctite bonds to everything in our usual realm... teak, aluminum, fiberglass, plastic, etc., as it's polyether based. Whatever you choose, I'd choose something that says "marine" or "for use above and below waterline". I know we don't drive our Ollies on the water, but some of the gulley washers we've experienced make me appreciate marine sealant quality. We use synthetic butyl tape as bedding, whenever possible. Old school, tried and true, eternally flexible. Windows, fans, boat ports, etc. Rooftop appertanences take a beating in Florida sun. After a few days of allowing butyl to set up, we (I should say,usually Paul) trim the edge with a fine bead of loctite, to block uv. Maybe unnecessary, but, it looks good, especially when Paul does it,instead of me. I'm not bad, but he's better. (Give credit where due, right?) Butyl is ONLY a sealant, not an adhesive, so requires mechanical fasteners to keep everything in place. As far as removing silicon residue, I'm not your person. I don't think it has a place in the fiberglass world. We don't use silicon. It seeps into the pores, and is very difficult to remove. Sika makes many fine products. If you find one appropriate for the Ollie (fiberglass, plastic, and metal compatible, decent elasticity/flex, uv resistant), I'd love to hear about it. They're not inexpensive, either, but we've had great experience with some of their products in our home.

Here is a photo:

It is really beautiful- the ranger said that it’s the nicest day of the year. The water is starting to run. A small patch right off the campground just appeared. We went into Alamosa a little after going out into the dunes and the truck thermometer said 61F at 1:30. The air is fresh and clear. All of the surrounding mountains have a respectable amount of snow. Clouds in the southwest style started appearing around noon.

First side is swapped. Old Chinese Dexters will go to the recycler and bring scrap value…maybe enough for a soda pop. A few observations: 1) I put a set of calipers to my 3500# Dexter axles and they are 3” dia. Ubolts provided by Alcan are for 3” dia axles fit perfect 2) Alcan ubolts are 9/16” rod vs. the smaller (1/2”?) that were stock on my trailer. No worries installing as the holes in the spring retainer plate are large enough to accommodate the larger bolt diameter 3) Alcan ubolts are longer to accommodate increased spring pack height (5 vs. 4 leafs). About 1-1.5” of thread extend below nuts. I plan to leave but you could cut the excess off if it bothers you 4) Torque specs from Alcan for 9/16 ubolts is 90 foot lbs. See attachment 5) Two of my shocks were blown so I am replacing them A Irwin squeeze clamp works wonders for compressing and installing the shocks after the springs have been bolted in 6)reversed the wet bolts so that the zerks point inward even with a 90 degree lock-n-lube fitting it was a PITA before hoping this will be easier 7) the front springs were still in “ok” shape but starting to flatten. one rear spring had snapped and the other was bent 8)the parts for my trailer were sourced during COVID and at the height of demand for RVs. I cannot help but ponder if the RV frenzy and skilled labor shortage during this time played some role in my broken spring and the quality of the other one that was bending. Oh well, just glad to be safe and be replacing the stock springs before heading out in a month for another Season of seeing this great Country Very straight forward swap. Heck, I did it on a tarp in melting CO permafrost. Cannot imagine doing the swap inside on concrete. 🤪 That would be Lux.

Adding more solar panels either on the roof or the ground is a more expensive solution, but probably the most practical. Mossey

When we visited the Great Sand Dunes there was a really neat 30 minute movie talking all about the natural phenomenon that occurs in this part of CO. I did not commit all the information to memory, but here is the explanation of how Mother Nature created the Dunes which we both thought was pretty cool. 😊 In a snap shot - Wind from the northeast funnels through the Sangre de Christo Mountains and pushes against the opposing southwestern winds, which erodes additional sand from the mountain sides and brings it into the dune system. Wait there is more- https://www.usgs.gov/index.php/geology-and-ecology-of-national-parks/great-sand-dunes-national-park-and-preserve#:~:text=Wind from the northeast funnels,it into the dune system.

We share some of the same surprises of perception

It was a huge sand deposit from the glaciation process in the surrounding mountains. Winds eventually pushed a fraction of the sand into the mountains you see behind. They are always changing on a small scale, but one photo taken in the 1850s (?) looks nearly identical to today.

Hey, John: If you're only talking a couple inches of height - air-down your 4 tires enough to get that clearance. Roll the rig into position in the barn. This shouldn't damage the tires. Air them back up once in position. Problem solved.

The Dunes are about a 90-minute drive northeast of our cabin near Mogote, CO; we go there often... Never get tired of that location - very cool. Thanks for posting @Doug S! Cheers!

Trusting that RVIA has the consumers interest and safety at forefront is akin to expecting that NADA (North American Automotive Dealers Association) has the end consumers interest at heart. Prepping to finally install my Alcan springs today now that the snow has melted. 😀

My bride at the great sand dunes last Oct 23rd. If you think people look really close while visiting the dunes..well they are not. Don’t ask me how I know. 😄

Yes - and until you subscribe to the Reno paper that will keep popping up. Above under my post is basically what the Reno article says. Bill

Jill took this as we arrived - Great Sand Dunes - sorry for the length - sort of IMG_2936.mov

Here is the response I received from Jason in July 2019 regarding faucet model number used in Hull 313. Here’s the cartridge I used. Get a couple of spares. I ordered one from Amazon and Dura sent me one under warranty. I need to replace mine again. https://www.amazon.com/Dura-Faucet-DF-RK601-Cartridge-Replacement/dp/B072BVH7KB Don’t forget the socket wrench. Mine came from a set that I bought at a Menards in Marquette MI. It’ll make the job real easy. You may have to clock the faucet base if it has been twisted out of position. See my write up in this thread.

Dave: Your quote is amazing. It certainly can apply to many other situations as well. Even our forum. GJ

Awesome! Please keep us posted as to what you've learned about your project, specifically, the condition of the old spring packs....

Is this the Loctite product you're using? https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/build/sealants/loctite_pl_marinefastcureadhesivesealant.html Going to try ASI 0240 for caulk removal, too. I'm like some others here and have much to be desired in the artistic application skills. But with Ollie, learning daily. 🙂 Like always, appreciate the knowledge folks share here. Really appreciated the information shared on fiberglass surface preparation for belly band installation, too.

We've considered a tilt modification on our 2022 LE2 but decided it's not worth the hassle for our type of camping. 4 Way Solar has a guide discussing the pros/cons for a RV roof panel tilt system. You might be able to set up a similar system to work on an Oliver. Their design is simple, but you'd still need an easy way to reach the roof brackets to tilt the panels.

The panels on the earlier models were more narrow than the ones they currently use. The newer panels have more watts than the older ones. I’ve not had the opportunity to examine the new mounting brackets, but judging from what I can see in your photos there is no way for those panels to tilt.

Really BIG levelers on one side? 😇

Spent 4 nights there summer before last early in September. Really enjoyed the hiking and the relative quiet once off the main road. Many of the sites are too small for even smaller trailers - we lucked into a great pull through but they were few. Choose your site carefully and well in advance.

I just had to post this, when i seen leaking under bolt.. last year coming back from Banff,AL. It was leaking at the bolt.. stopped using bath sink. It stopped.. when i got home , i removed the bath vanity. To my regard the leak was at the faucet hose. Just needed to tighten the nut.. lesson leraned ..check that first!!! I might do that mod with the hatch , cinch i took it off already.. Very Senior moment..

Sherry: Your post would make a great thread starter! Likely it boils down to your camping style and frequency. GJ

The campground (Piñon Flats) is nice. No hookups and some sites are a little tight. We were on the edge facing the dunes, a really great view out of the back window. We really enjoyed our time there. Mike

Thanks @Townesw I just saw this and I keep a tube of ASI 335 handy especially while traveling. 👍🏻

Spotted an EII in an HEB store lot on south side of San Antonio today. It had a white Ford truck as the tow vehicle. Left our card in the drivers side window to say hi. Craig n Rose

Make sure you read the date code.

Much better on the pic - thanks. Before putting Twist to bed in the late Fall I make sure to clean those tracks well - this includes taking the black tracks out of the channel. Then I use a CalMark cover over the winter and in the Spring those tracks are basically just as I left them in the Fall. A dehumidifier might help a little but I believe that the major help will be in the cleaning. Good luck. Bill

Yup, that’s probably what I’ll end up doing.

Yup I will have to Jerry-rig a contraption, like @topgun2 said, a really big leveller on one side! 😊

Who knows why there are 700 foot sand dunes in South Central Colorado?

I spent a couple hours taping both sides of every seem on a shower floor we did a couple years ago. I'll put myself with @Geronimo John as I fall short on anything that needs the artist touch. Using the blue painters' tape, it came out pretty nice. I can fix anything automotive mechanical, though tried bodywork once in the late 70s, and never again. The one thing I will contract on the Oliver is anything fiberglass gelcoat work. After our next outing, I need to clean off all that "gnarly" crude on every exterior seam. Readers here would likely be interested in your choice of "silicone finishing tools." Thanks again.

Man I hear you! And that is a pretty gnarly sealant job on your rear window!😖 I pretty much have to tape everything off on each side of the joint (sometimes, just one side is necessary). It takes time, but gives me the best result. I'll wet tool the sealant before removing the tape. Then a final very light tooling (my finger usually) to take the tape/sealant edge off after tape is removed. It's important not to get too much sealant in the joint or you'll have a mess removing the tape and too thick an edge for the final tooling. The thinner tapes leave less of an edge to deal with. I'm still trying different things to get the clean look I want. I bought some silicone finishing tools I want to try next time I get in to it. Dave

I've been using SIKAFLEX 291 on my Ollie. It has a very good reputation in the marine world. I have experienced no yellowing or mildewing in the years I have used it. The world of sealants is a tough one. There is a lot of chemistry involved that is far beyond my knowledge for sure. Everyone is going to have their favorite based on their use and experience. Not sure why Oliver went to silicone, I'm sure they had their reasons. Although the ASI 335 seems to be a very good product, inevitable future resealing efforts may be compromised unless a very thorough cleaning protocol is adhered to. Not sure what is happening with the yellowing issues some folks are having. It could be quite a few things, part of the mysterious chemical peculiarities of sealants. THIS article may shed some light on that. Since the ASI 335 is neutral cure, it may be susceptible to yellowing from chemical vapor contamination from the butyl tape (or whatever Oliver is using now) around their windows. Don't know how widespread this issue is, or if this is indeed the issue at all. It's just part of the puzzle. The thing about sealants, and all materials really, is that they are part of an ecosystem where everyone has to get along or bad things happen. One needs to consider how multiple materials will interact with each other, both in the short and long term, for good work to be done. Dave

This topic having a very high probability of my needing to find the answer resulted in my saving the post in my Ollie KEEPER document. Cut and pasted below: OLLIE CAULKS AND SEALANTS: JEssary Oliver Staff 4 MARCH 2022 (EDTS BY GJ) The Oliver service department utilizes ASI 335 white & clear silicone, Red Devil butyl sealant, butyl tape, and Dicor self-leveling sealant to re-caulk/reseal the exterior of your camper. . Due to Oliver’s double fiberglass hull construction, any leaking water is trapped between the hulls until the water can find an escape point. Those points are typically a window cutout or one of the weep holes in the lower outer shell. Windows being a primary entry point often leads to an initial diagnosis that the window is leaking which is not necessarily the case. During the yearly maintenance, use Acetone for cleanup, and seal the exterior with ASI 335 silicone. Once the silicone is cured, bolts and screws located on the roof then have an additional application of self-leveling sealant to provide an additional layer of protection, again, these areas aren’t typically “seen” surfaces. The additional layer also helps protect the silicone from sun exposure as well as sealing the head of screws and/or bolts. Re-caulk any gaps found. Carefully check roof penetrations and the marker lights. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Sadly my skills with a caulk gun are legendary..... BAD. I to love gaskets as a result. Wow you hit the nail on the head with that one. I have been told that the 2018 marker lights don't streak because the black supplier gasket was eliminated and they were caulked. My 2018 trailer has the supplier gaskets and the black streaks continue to this day. About a month after pick up of our hull 342, I reported the black streaks and suggested OTT get a better gasket. The response was caulking. Hopefully one day we'll have a gasket for these exterior lights because if I caulk it, it would be a visual disaster.

HERE'S a nice list of Marine quality sealants. I like Sikaflex products, have used 221 on our Airstream with good results. Has anybody used some of these on their Ollie?

I didn't see an answer to the question of what is the sealant to use on our Olivers? I just inspected the various sealant places on the roof of our Ollie while washing and waxing after we got home. It doesn't look like it needs it yet but I want to be prepared. I have noted and recorded the above recommendations for both the cleaner and sealant. Which brings me to my next point. When we picked up our Oliver in May of 2022... we noticed a poor bead of seal around the rear window and asked them to touch it up. They did, but what they used (there in the pre-delivery bay) dried very yellow and to this day, stands out like a sore thumb on our pristine white Oliver. It is completely different than what was used when building the Oliver. Then a couple of months later we had a service ticket for the bathroom window to be replaced and I agreed to let them send me the parts and materials to replace it. I did so... but evidently got the same "yellow" sealant! When time and UV rays do their damage.... I want to be sure to have a replacement sealant that is "bright white"! For those that have done this, what was your experience?

So @MAX Burner installed all new performance leaf springs last week, likely other maintenance included, and is already 100s of miles from home today. Love you brother! Reminds me of when I first met my wife, was spring of 1992 and I was restoring a 1967 Buick LeSabre, loved that car! She wanted to do Spring Break in Florida to visit her mom and brothers (was 2 years before we got married). I promised her, I would drive her and her kids down (Chicago to Ft Laud) in the Buick! It was a week out from our trip and the LeSabre was up on blocks, finishing a suspension/brake system rebuild, wheels off, new stereo system installed, yet the interior was still laying in the second garage stall... We left on our Florida trip as planned. One of the memories that founded our new family through the years! God Speed Art & D and the pups! Keep us posted! JD

Lots of wonderful glyphs at VOF, but have you found the mysterious Bat Woman glyph? It’s shown on the signs at the Mouse’s Tank trail head.

It appears a lot of you are familiar with Valley of Fire State Park but thought I would upload a few images from that part of our recent trip. First two images are with my Nikon Z7 and the remainder with iPhone 13 Pro in RAW mode for anyone interested in the technicals White Domes Road view to the south White Domes Road view to the north White Domes Loop trail with remnants of old movie set Trudi taking a break on the hike Detail of sandstone geology One of the many petroglyphs found along the Mouses Tank trail. Fire Wave Trail Firewave trail and Pastel Canyon End of White Dome Loop trail

👆🏻is a huge concern for me! Most of the dealerships have a bunch of brands that they have to service, and unless they will have Oliver only “certified” service people their service will never be on par with Oliver. case in point ….. 1) Had an issue with my solar panels not charging, I put a ticket in and within an hour received a call from Hannah, took her maybe 30min to diagnose the problem. Why, because she is familiar with everything a-z related to layout, ie electrical/gas/plumbing etc diagrams, components and component layout. 2) Something as simple as the 3 additional jack fuses under the street side bed, if the dealerships service people (who have to service numerous other rigs) are not familiar with this, could make for a frustrating diagnosis. I would assume (Hopefully) the dealerships will have detailed schematic drawings of all the wiring/plumbing etc.

A bit over a year ago I visited a vacant lot I own on the Deschutes River south of Sunriver, OR. The lot is river front and undeveloped and we have used it occasionally over the years for camping and messing around. Arrived to see a "For Sale" sign stuck in the ground advertising the lot for a local real estate firm. Made a quick visit to the realtors office and was told there was a lot of interest in the lot but, sadly for me, it had sold a couple days previously and the sale was due to close shortly. Jaws dropped when I mentioned I owned the lot and that I had not listed it ... they had taken the listing over the phone and, apparantly, were a bit slack on their due diligence. County sheriff put some effort into identifying the scammer, who by this time had gone underground, but nothing came of it. I avoided being involved in an uncomfortable situation, the buyer got his down payment back, which was being held in escrow and no one was badly hurt (aside from the agent who lost a significant commission). Vacant lots and homes are apparantly considered fair game by the ethically challenged.

https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=20596&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=(ROI) PMax Shopping - Low/No AOV&utm_id=18030280001&utm_content=&utm_term=&gad_source=4 https://www.chemical-concepts.com/product/american-sealants-0240-cleaner-remover-14-oz-net-weight-can/?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cse&srsltid=AfmBOop8hPEz53xgukj9M1jJ5fHGXYcHM-KH_hwxWI5aSBtTGkVdMxnFYds (states on back order)

I realize this post has nothing to do with the direction this thread has taken, but I think this part is what was originally used for the bathroom sink drain. I submitted a service request asking for the correct part but the factory was unable to provide that information. You won’t find this in most hardware stores. https://www.lasallebristol.com/product/metal-c-o-plug-without-overflow/

Did we all survive the holidays? Minimal political or religious discussions with family members of opposing views? Christmas presents we received and don't know just how to say we'd prefer to exchange this item! These are the little things, and there are greater concerns. It was nice Christmas was on a Monday this year, allowing a long weekend! We were home and as much as we enjoy camping, we have a wonderful home we've built over the years. We enjoy being home with family, and for us this year was just our immediate family. I give thanks to ALL we have! The world today is a troubled place, worse we've seen in recent years and perhaps in our lifetimes. Many of us are "baby-boomers" and we worry for our children. It is extremely difficult in our society for those who are younger today. How can the young today be accepted, afford a home, and be secure today? 🙏 God bless you all, God bless our freedoms as outlined in the Constitution of the United States of America! God bless we have the freedom to exist, to travel and camp, enjoy this life, and live the lives we all love! This is what I am thankful for today and in the time to come. Happy New Year! 🤗

This turned out to be the problem. I had a blown 40 amp fuse, and I replaced it with a circuit breaker that I ordered from Amazon. Fixed the problem and everything is working fine now. Kudos to Mike at the Oliver service department for correctly diagnosing this problem and suggesting I replace the fuse.