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I've been following the number of broken springs for over three years. All were four leaf springs and all have broken in exactly the same place and manner. Being a moderator here on the forum and an admin on the primary FB page, I've heard about or seen probably 30-40 reports of broken leafs. But because only about 10% of the owners are active on either or both platforms, I suspect the number of spring failures that have occurred is actually much greater than has been reported. There are well over 1600 Oliver TT that have be built. Elite I's comprise about 16.5% of them. Since they have always had the heavier 5-leaf spring pack and the 5200 pound axles they are the least likely to fail. I've not heard of any so far. That leaves nearly 1400 trailers that have the weaker springs all of which are subject to failure. As everyone knows, all the Elite II's built since 2022 have come with 5200 pound axles BUT they are still built with the 1750 pound 4-leaf spring packs. The springs are the weakest link in your suspension systems. I can not tell you that you WILL have a spring failure. There are many that have not. But I will promise you that, if you do, it will NEVER be in a convenient, dry, warm or cool, flat, smooth place. It will be on the side of the road or in a parking lot somewhere. Replacing one at home with all the tools you need is a challenge. Replacing one while you are on the road with no help will be daunting, dangerous and all but impossible. You WILL need more tools than you likely brought along. And all that's assuming you have all the proper parts with you in the first place. I've replaced a bunch of springs in the last few years and have some owners coming to Tupelo in the next few weeks so I can help them replace theirs. It is not an easy job but it is easier to be pro-active rather that re-active. If you are so inclined and can afford a set of the Alcan's, I highly recommend them. If not, buy a pair of cheap replacements to take along with you and some extra $$ to pay someone to install them for you. Don't forget to have a full set of new U-Bolts also as they are a one-time use only item.

Thank you to everyone who has shared their thoughts in this thread. I'll admit that I knew very little about leaf springs until one of ours failed last week on our 2019 LEII. What can I say? I'm the wife and am not too interested in discussing the mechanical operation of things but I am also the detail-oriented and "let's make sure we have all the information before making a decision" half of this team. You all educated me on this topic and I appreciate the knowledge as we decide what springs to go with moving forward. For the record, ours broke in the same trouble spot as many of the other Dexter 1750# 4-leaf ones and we have done mostly highway driving. I would venture to say, since there were 5 of us in the span of a few days who reported broken springs, that this is likely more common than some may have thought. I'll be submitting a ticket to Oliver just so they'll have record of the break. Mindy

Not as pretty as those western vistas. We’re in far western New York, just across the boarder from Erie, PA at Lake Erie State Park. Water, wine, a light breeze, clear skies, and comfortable temperatures for a change. And kazoos!

US driver’s licenses are valid for visitors in Canada.

I emailed tech support @ sunforge. Ryan replied next day with a very nice note offering his help. He supplied this link: https://sunforgellc.com/how-to-program-bse-charge-controllers-for-lifepo4-batteries/ This will be a last step after new MP2 inverter/charger and LI batteries are installed. Just good to know the old original Blue Sky SC can be reprogrammed. Thanks Sherry! 🙂

This new freezer/fridge combo by GZ proved to be more efficient and better in every way than my old reliable ARB fridge. Bluetooth connectivity in cab monitoring was perfect every time. Temps in the unit were always within a degree or two even in the heat wave we experienced in D.C. It was nice to have a true partition for refrigerator items vs freezer items. Dual side plugs for power. Ran perfect off DC outlet in bed of truck or via GZ LiFePO4 solar generator. Not always needed on our week longs trips but for longer trips it is perfect for extra meat, milk, OJ, etc. Overloading the Dometic 3-way fridge just makes it not work effectively. LG compressor brought the temperature down quickly on initial startup. The only downside is the size, takes up a good bit of room but for us when needed is worth the trade-off. They do make a smaller version that is a single zone. .

Your passport gets you in, and back out. If you are traveling with pet(s), make sure vaccinations are up to date, and carry a copy of their record(s). Don't carry weapons (or ammo) of any kind, as Canadian border patrol asks a lot of questions, and weapons are very restricted. Easier to leave them home. Check the latest rules on foods you can bring in, and amount of wine/beer/alcohol. (This is also true on re-entry to US.) We've done the crossings many times, and only once been searched (I think the border patrol had never seen a trailer like ours.) But, be prepared to be honest, and stay within published limits. There are still "random" checks at times that can take awhile. Usually, after a few questions, you'll quickly be welcomed to Canada by professional and courteous border agents . The folks around Montreal drive pretty fast, in my experience, but quite safely. Don't miss Quebec City. Camp somewhere nearby, and spend at least a day. It's historic, beautiful, and elegant. Like going to Europe for the day. https://inspection.canada.ca/en/food-safety-consumers/bringing-food-canada-personal-use

Ryan is a gem. Truly responsive. And, patient. Explains in easy to understand terms. He's a credit to his company, for sure.

No, the only spring they make for these axles is the 2750 pound version. I changed out our original 5-leaf springs for the Alcans and I honestly can not tell any difference in the ride or the handling. Tali did most of the towing during our recent 5000 mile trip up to Maine and she said she could not tell any difference either.

The homework on Alcan 5-leaf springs has been done for you😊

I agree and have previously posted that DIY spring changes on the road is NOT something to even consider doing. However, as also previously posted, I woud NEVER suggest replacing the 1750 springs in kind. Not enough steel. For some the ALCON 2700 springs are an option. But also for others who want a more compliant but stronger spring, the logical alternatve is the Dexter 2400 pound PB4 springs. Always be aware that spring sizing can be too little or be "over sprung". Changing from 1750 to 2700 springs is a huge difference. Some at OTT have confidentially stated that they are a bit too "over sprung". But if your trailer is really heavy or your are a near full time boondocker then they likely would fill the bill well. GJ

I would consider an alternate route for exterior runs of wire, the L-shaped aluminum crossbeams. From looking at their positioning in relation to respective axles, it seems more practical to utilize them rather than the axle themselves. Wires further protected with a loom could easily be fastened on the rearward side of these crossbeams at their juncture with the fiberglass hull, and most importantly out of harms ways. Just a thought!

I started to install the ALCAN springs that came while I was on vacation. I was surprised to find the 1/2 U bolts were 2 1/2 in instead of 3 in. I have #3500 lb axles with 3 in tubes. I guess they can be either size diameter. Contacted Lew and he quickly verified pics and said new ones would be in the mail tomorrow. This is just a reminder for everyone that orders to make sure and give them the tube diameter of your axles. If anyone is in need of the 2 1/2 U-bolt set I have just message me.

This mount was easy to make and has been rock solid. I glued down a thin heavy duty rubber mat and once epoxy was applied to HDPE put the assembly in place and pushed down onto the mat with HDPE push against the inner basement wall for a minute or two to try and absorb any vibration and prevent rattling. Seems to have worked. Low hum when charging mostly, no rattles. The mount has to be heavy duty... the MP2 weighs almost 50 lbs. And yes, a temperature actuated exhaust fan would be great. You can program it through a Victron system pretty easily. On my list...

John, if you haven’t already, contact Dexter and request a spec/build sheet of your axle/spring assy. You will have to provide them with your axle serial number. Attached is a copy of my build sheet with all the info on the axles and springs, under “shop order notes and options” you can see my axles are 3” diameter. The axles and springs are supplied from Dexter as an assembly, D52 = 5200lbs capacity and the springs are 1750lbs capacity.

When returning home from the Oregon Coast this April, my wife and I boondocked at a Harvest Host site. That cold evening, we tried to heat water for hot drinks in the microwave using the inverter, but it shut down after just a few seconds. We were surprised and disappointed, because our Lithium Pro Package with Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 watt inverter should enable us to use the microwave on inverted power for at least a few minutes. It had been a cloudy day so we got minimal solar recharge, and with our Nordcold fridge running on DC while on the road, our battery State of Charge was down to about 74%. When we submitted a service ticket, Jason Essary confirmed that we should be able to run the microwave on inverted power at 74% State of Charge (SOC), and much lower, down to 25-30% SOC. With Jason's helpful guidance, I then spent dozens of hours trying to troubleshoot the electrical system, both on the DC and the AC sides. The inverter/charger was charging as designed, and would run 120V appliances that pull up to 1100-1200 watts (including the Truma air conditioner, which pulls 1100 watts with the compressor running), but loads greater than 1400 watts (like the microwave or a space heater on a high setting) caused the inverter to shut down. Nothing we tried solved the problem, including replacement of the Optifuse 300A inverter breaker, which Oliver sent to me under warranty. I also spoke with a Xantrex customer service rep (after45 minutes on eternahold) who assured me the problem could not be with the inverter, so it must be in the trailer wiring. Jason then authorized me to engage an RV service tech at Oliver's expense to try to find a solution. But that was right before I had planned to use the trailer boondocking at the Lochsa River the week of May 15. I decided to engage a tech after I returned home. But while camping (and running the Lochsa river during the day) I happened to mention the inverter issue to another RVer. He asked me if my inverter is a Xantrex. Yup. He then told me he had been advised by an RV service tech to do a "hard reboot" of his Xantrex inverter to resolve a similar issue. He explained that this involves disconnecting both the positive and negative DC cables from the inverter, and leaving it at least overnight, then reconnecting. I determined to give it a try after I returned home, as it would be relatively easy to do. To my surprise, the "hard reboot" solved the problem. My tests have confirmed that we can now run the microwave on full power (1540 watts) for 4 minutes or more at a time, at SOC levels down to 35%. So, the Xantrex customer service guy was wrong--the problem was with the inverter. And, the solution was relatively easy to implement: turn off all batteries, and ensure that shore power is disconnected (so there is no power to the DC cables), then disconnect the DC cables from the inverter and leave at least overnight. I left mine disconnected for 3 days. Then reconnect, and turn the batteries back on. If your Xantrex inverter is not performing up to spec, try a hard reboot.

There I go again, quoting myself! 🤣 By chance I found the individual electrical runs for the 110v outlets and microwave. This may not be true in newer hulls, but on ours there is one breaker for both. Good news is the run to the microwave is separate and can be wired to a separate breaker, given one available in the panel. Since I will soon eliminate the PD converter/charger I could use its breaker or install a thin double in its place. I already wired the panel in this way but need the PD converter while I have no batteries in ours, working on the new inverter/charger installation. I removed the Xantrex 2KW inverter yesterday. Ours is inverter only, no charger and it also has the Xantrex PROwatt SW external ATS. The freed-up space is perfect to add a DC-to-DC charger or other needs. I also plan to move the solar ON/OFF switch from under the streetside bed to rear dinette. I already upgraded to motorized ball valves so no pulling of the curbside bed, and I want absolutely no reason to move either bed when camping. OTT really needs this as a future design goal! I sure hope the MP2 does not have some kind of manual reset button! What hokey wiring OTT did. Though I'm thinking back in 2016 the solar inverter option was a rare add-on. When I built an inverter system in our past Class-C, I created a split bus in the panel, one side served by the inverter and the other side having A/C and converter/charger breakers only to be powered by shore power. PD actually makes panels with a split bus for this reason, but mine was hand-cut! OTT wired the microwave and 110v outlets into a standard electrical junction box using only wire-nuts to connect these runs to both shore and inverter. These only went through the breaker on the panel when on shore power, otherwise are protected by the GFCI outlet on the inverter. I removed everything you see in this picture, and you can see the junction box at the top of the picture. The second picture shows the two cables that were wired into the box. They are the two white cables you see lose above the panel which I wired into the panel afterwards. Also yesterday, I purchased my Victron MP2 and VE.bus for programming and Bluetooth connection from Inverter Supply, at a good OTD price, no additional costs: Victron Energy PMP122305120 - Inverter Supply The second picture also shows the main shore power cable (heavy black 600V 10-3 cable on LHS). This will be removed. A new 10-3 cable will be wired from the EMS as input to the MP2 and another from MP2 output to the panel so that the inverter handles all loads including air conditioning. When on shore power from either input (grid or generator) it will allow pass-through 120VAC and/or Power Assist when needed. No generator on our rig, just 600AH Epoch and 3KVA MP2. If this doesn't do it, though it should, I can always add more batteries in the basement!

Mine will not be as pretty as Ron's. I'm thinking something like this item as a base and other stock brackets you can get at Lowes or the Depot. Two straps to hold it against the wall with a piece of foam behind the inverter to keep noise an vibration muffled. Two bolts just under the bed lip to hold it all tight. 4 x 4 Post Base 2PCS,Inner Size 3.6"x3.6"Deck Post Base,Heavy Duty Metal Black Powder Coated Post Brackets,for Mailbox Post Deck Supports Porch Railing Post Holders - Amazon.com

I ended up buying the Blue Sea Systems 6006-BSS 300 Amp switch since the main fuse in mine is 300 amps:

Great write up Steve. Thanks.

1/2 is 65 ft/lbs 9/16 is 90 ft/lbs Is correct. Make sure to tighten bolts in a cross-pattern and re-torque after 100 miles.

I suspect it was not worth the shipping cost for him because he did not do an exchange just shipped out the correct U-bolts same day. I had talked about my axle tube widths when the order was placed due to the confusion about what U-bolts to order expressed here on the forum (2 1/2 in vs 3 in tube width). Lew did say that most D35 axles he had seen from us were 2 1/2 in tube width. So, I believe, that is why he sent them. Called mine an oddball and that from now on he will make sure that the width of the axle is confirmed. Excellent customer service from Lew and others at ALCAN spring. It doesn’t hurt that over 100 Oliver owners have ordered upgraded springs from them. Again, if anyone can use them on this forum and can do a local pick-up, just PM me. They are our yours, I don’t need them.

When the time comes, I too will remove the stock mounting board and fashion an aluminum footing similar to the one made to support the Hughes Autoformer recently installed. 4”x4”x1/4” L-shaped aluminum should suffice; only difference, weld rather than heat bend this thicker metal.

At about $16 per U-Bolt, Lew would probably like to have those back.

My Oliver storage building door has very limited height clearance for my Oliver L2. If I install new ALCAN springs will it result in raising the height of my Oliver? If so, by how much? If so, is there an alternative solution? Thanks.

My Xantrex 2000 is not BT capable, but find using the remote panel easy to pan through the settings and make changes. I obtained the settings table from Oliver when converting to LFPs; only difference in my specific settings were #9 set to 2.0 (inverter is 2000W [2.0] rather than 3000W [3.0]) and #24 set to 80 (2000W inverter/80A charger rather than 3000W/150A charger).

I've not heard any brake ticking in the many trailers I've owned. It does not sound right. However, I have never owned a newer truck with a built-in brake controller, so have no experience there. I've always installed Tekonsha aftermarket brake controllers in every truck I've owned, except a for Redarc model installed in our GX470.

Everything has been said, great info here from many members. It's a long 17-page read! 🤣

Within 5 minutes of texting Dexter with a screen shot of the axel label, I got a text and an e-mail with the document attached. Wow! Thanks for the suggestion.

Axle weight rating is 5200lbs/axle, spring weight rating is 1750lbs (x 2 = 3500/axle, hence the 7000lbs GVWR), GVWR of 7000lbs is based on the weakest link, ie the springs

@John Dorrer - John; that's correct. You'll need to examine your Dexter D35 axles and determine if you've got 2-1/2" or the 3" diameter units. I believe most Olivers were initially configured with the 3" diameter D35's, but Dexter makes both sizes. Lew or Mike at Alcan will sell you the appropriate U-bolts for your axles with your leaf spring order. Note that U-bolts are a one-time use item, so you shouldn't re-use your current U-bolts/nuts/washers. Also, the new Alcan-made U-bolt kits arrive unpainted, it would be a good time to clean off the machining oil and hit them with a good oil-based product such as Rust-Oleum to slow down the accumulation of oxidation on them. Plus, it will make those nice Alcan 5-packs and running gear look "all new and shiny." Keep us posted on your upgrade efforts! Cheers!

You'll find my full maintenance procedure on page 2.

Zooming in on this thought. The jacks are a standard jack which is modified by Barker for OTT. Their standard jack has a round mounting plate with three bolts. OTT production makes and sends Barker a two bolt tab that Barker welds to the shank of their standard jack. Production ordered out 48 of them in May and according to Service they are out of stock. I find this to be a bit off. More likely the Production Team is holding on to their remaining supply of "Post Assemblies" for..... wait for it... production. In the last week, at least four ownes have needed these assemblies and per Service have called Barker. But Barker does not have any of the mounting tabs so those owners are basically screwed. As of yesterday, Barker has no pending orders from OTT, and none will be made until OTT makes the brackes. OTT Service needs a reserve stock in addition to Production stock. Until this is done, if you drive away with a down jack, you likely will be "Screwed". The three jacks are rated for 9,000 pounds total. The safety factor for a screw jack is generally considered to be 3, but this may need to be adjusted for specific applications. For example, if a screw jack failure could injure people, some recommend multiplying the critical load by an additional factor of 0.6, resulting in a final safety factor of 5, Since the failure of these jacks could kill, the 5X safety factor is in play. Bottom line these jacks are the right jacks for our trailers. JD: Can you please post a link to your excellent DIY guide for jack maintenance? AMEN! Note that the jacks have a clutch that protects them from over extension/retraction. If you damage the jack by driving off with it down, the bent section will prevent the jack from moving when you try to retract it. That's when most blow the 30 amp fuse.

JD: One of the reasons that JD suggested the exterior routing acrosss the axle is that the wires were being damaged at the entry and exit points. I totally agree that the wires should be 14 ga as you suggested.

Yes, for example the Battle Born folks provided the charge parameters for their batteries. Blue Sky Battle Born setup.pages I sent the BB folks a copy of the Blue Sky setup pages and they supplied the parameters that they wanted to see for the 3 BB batteries that I have. You will have to do the programming procedure as per the Blue Sky instruction manual. Very easy process.

Santa came today, Christmas in July! Never received such beautiful batteries 600AH total. They came just before I started teaching my class today, got the FedEx guy to get them in my garage. On a break, I had to open one! Measures 13.12V in the box. Got to buy my new inverter ASAP. Love it!

We're definitely considering the Lynx PD unit as well for when we drop the hammer on upgrading to the MPII - its a very clean option as compared to our Blue Seas bus bar, IMO.

There is no part number. When you call, ask for Lew or Mike and tell them you have a Oliver Elite II(this way they can make sure the centering pin is set up for our spring under axle configuration). According to Alcan, their springs are rated at 2,750 lb/ea. While most of us who have installed them notice very little incremental stiffness, you should be aware of this going into the purchase. If you order your new ubolts and nuts from them, make sure you know your axle diameter when you call so they send the correct ubolt size.

I have already forgotten about using the generator traveling down the road and the usefulness of the power assist probably because I used a Yamaha propane generator that ran the PII without difficulty with a soft start. Since converting to lithium I have forgotten about it already. I was thinking from a lithium powered standpoint. It would be useful for an owner trying to use a smaller generator.

You may want to call Victron or Victron rep and have a chat. They're both great units. Same warranty. Some many discussions on victron forum https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/63741/difference-between-multiplus-and-multiplus-ii.html

Call Ryan at Blue sky/sunforge. Or, send him an email. He's so very helpful. Our Blue Sky gear has been incredibly dependable.

So, two members have purchased the Dexter brand 2400 LB springs and more than 10 of us have purchase the Alcan product, rated at 2750 LBS. When I upgrade, it's Alcan for sure! It's not that everything made in China is bad, just literally millions of MADE IN CHINA products are of extremely poor quality (go ahead and take your chance on your $100K investment). The marketing slogan is Better-Faster-Cheaper though they often forget the first word is BETTER! When give choice, I will NEVER purchase from the CCP and will pay hundreds more for first choice MADE IN USA and second choice ANYTHING BUT CHINA. I need a bumper sticker that SCREAMS this sediment. I believe I also wrote this on page 6, or maybe it was page 9, no 12! I'll bet this thread hits 20 pages... The design of the Alcan has the second leaf fully extended to the full length of the main leaf. @ScubaRx just wrote it clearly in B&W, @MAX Burner mentioned it at least twice and I wrote of it before. No brainer, this is the cause of failure. Good ol' Dexter can make a heavier spring, but not a better one. EOF

Absolutely correct, Steve. We did the same procedure by drilling-out our spring plates for the 9/16" U-bolts. Not only are the U-bolts beefier, but the Alcan-provided nuts are 50% longer than those on the standard Dexter axle made with sub-standard Chinese spring steel leafs. More thread contact between bolt and nut = mo betta. This was one of the main decision points in going with Alcan versus Dexter spring packs for our application. Dexter's 5-pack springs are designed in the same fashion as the 1750# 4-packs - with the 4th longest leaf extending to only about 3.5" from either eyelet. This is the traditional break failure point that Steve's referring to in his description above. With the Alcan design, that 4th spring fills the gap by extending to the point where the 5th leaf starts curving for the eyelet. Another feature of the Alcans, previously discussed but adding here for clarity, is the larger walled bronze bushing - 3/16" versus 1/16" for the Dexters that had bronze bushings. This thicker walled bushing creates an even larger diameter eyelet = mo betta. Please note that the current Dexter 1750# 4-spring packs w/D52 axles are fixed with plastic bushings. I observed this first-hand last week when replacing our D35s for the D52s. Serious NOTE: Owners with the newer Dexters should determine if their axles are equipped with either bronze or plastic/nylon bushings. Why, you ask? If a rig's running gear is fixed with an axle kit using spring packs with plastic bushings and using Dexter EZ-flex wet bolts, the bushings will likely not last a season. The petroleum-based grease used for the wet bolts can decompose plastic bushings. Not good, IMO. The pic below shows Alcan's extended 4th leaf right to the curvature point of the 5th spring's eyelet - a robust design feature not found in either the 4- or 5-pack Dexter Chinese-made spring kits (FYI, the traditional breaking point with the Dexter 4-packs is about where the end of the 3rd spring is located, see below pic): Comment on Shocks: If one assumes that OTTs are "under sprung" - i.e., not heavy enough leaf springs, then the constant expansion/contraction rate that the Monroe's experience is very high. IMO, this wears out the shocks much sooner - and which were never designed for an "under sprung" suspension to begin with. Using heavier-duty shocks on the same running gear may last a bit longer but shock failure will occur sooner than if they were mounted on running gear of heavier design. The Alcan option may just allow our shocks to last their designed lifespan... who knows? Let's get some miles on these babies and find out! 'nuf said.

For anyone desiring the quality and design of the Alcan branded springs, be aware that they do NOT make a spring rated at only 2400 pounds for either a 3500 pound or a 5200 pound axle. Their only spring is a 2750 pound rated pack. Every spring that I have seen broken has been the fifth leaf at the point where the fourth leaf ends. The best design feature of the Alcan's is that the fourth leaf extends out to where the spring eye starts to form at the end of the fifth leaf. This dramatically increases the strength of the fifth leaf and virtually negates the possibility of a break occurring at the tradition failure point. This one attribute convinced me that these are the best designed springs available. I was not interested in a lighter duty 2000 or 2400 pound spring pack, so the 2750 rating was perfect. The spring pictured here has the same potential for breakage as the OEMs and would not be my choice.

Same here for us, Mike. AGMs served us just fine with our previous TT - however, for us at least, the Lithiums have been a game changer. For example, we just returned from a short 3-nighter to Columbus, NM. We started each afternoon with 100% SOC on the BBs (200w portable solar module tucked away in the TV). Standard boon-docking afternoon/evening drill for us is fridge operating in gas mode, inverter OFF, dinner off the gas grill, cocktail lamp - "LIT", furnace OFF, Starlink up and an after-dinner "Shoot 'em Up" movie (neither one of us makes it to the end before crashing-out)... The three nights averaged an 11% drop in SOC by morning. The OTT 340watt solar module roof mount (during MAR sun angles near the US/Mexico border) brought the SOC back up to 100% by 3pm-ish. FYI: DAY-2 was overcast, but we still had 100%SOC before we lit the cocktail lamp - we're love'n this system! Cheers, ALL!

I am just smart enough to understand why a reboot would allow the inverter electronics and capacitors to fully "Stand Down" overnight. Occasionally my fat fingers have typed in some inadvertent key strokes on my computer that put it into a tail spin and the reboot did the fix job. If you have no need to be in the trailer needing lighting or fans, you could just turn off your master DC switch (or pull the 300 amp fuse) and you will accomplish the same thing without the PITA of removing those massive DC input cables at the Inverter. Me: I would gladly sleep the night in the dark with the Master Switch off, and turn it on in the morning and fire off the coffee pot and microwave in the morning and thereby avoiding messing with those difficult to get to cables. GJ

When my Xantrex 2K inverter was acting up a few years ago the Xantrex tech had me do a few things which did not solve the issue. Then he said to do a hard reboot. I left it overnight and when I reconnected the issue was gone. Mike

Something isn’t right. Your batteries should be able to put out full power up until they’re almost dead. My guess is that the low voltage cutoff on your inverter is set too high. Larry and Linda, if you picked up your trailer in May, and if you have not updated firmware for the Lithionics batteries, I'm willing to bet that your State-of-Charge values are incorrect. Here is a thread that might help...

Yeah, if you say retail on 600ah of batteries is $6,000 (high these days), and $3,500 for inverter, cables, etc. (also generous), then that’s $9,500 in materials. I wired my whole trailer in less than a week, and could certainly do it again in 30 hours or less, so with what’s left of the total, that would be over $500/hr in labor. Plus profit on the materials. Maybe I should think seriously about getting into the trailer mod business.