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Visiting Scott and John Oliver in Tampa,FL. They are in town for Oliver TT demo days at Lazydays RV. Lazydays has 3 locations in Florida with Ollie's in stock for your viewing pleasure. Mossey

@Mago I would not limit your search to only 2024 and 2025 trailers, if I were you. I would expand the search to 2022 and 2023. that have been lightly used. Just check to see what options they have on them. In my opinion, @Steph and Dud B are correct regarding the amount of battery power you will need when boondocking. Even a inverter generator will likely not be necessary, but could be an option for you. Try looking at the facebook "Oliver Travel Trailers For Sale" page. There is presently a good selection of newer models for sale there. Good luck in your search.

When doing hook-ups or departures from camp, I regularly find myself in need of water pump pliers to tighten and loosen water lines. . . which means digging out the tool box to find them. So I decided to mount a dedicated pair in the outdoor garage where they will be close at hand when needed. After looking at various options for storing the pliers, I settled on a small leather tool pouch from Amazon. It was low profile, could be easily mounted on the wall, and it didn’t take up precious garage floor space. The pouch also had pockets for a small flashlight and pen, which also can also be elusive items when signing in after dark. The tool pouch had a belt clip that was removed, and I stretched one of the pockets to fit my LED penlight. The leather is easily stretched by soaking it in water for about 60 seconds and using a dowel or other cylindrical object to expand the pocket. The leather is quickly dried in an oven at 130 degrees to hold the new shape. I chose a 7” Knipex Plier Wrench for my kit because of its high quality. They aren’t cheap, but the Oliver is deserving, and they are a pleasure to use. There are many excellent choices available for pliers, flashlights and pens. I just used what I already had on hand. Some folks might also be interested in my handy tool for stashing and retrieving things from the unreachable depths of the garage. This is simply a sanded length of 1/2” x 3/4” moulding with an aluminum angle screwed onto one end as a hook to pull things out. Oh, and notice the spring to pull the garage door suspension cable out of the way so it doesn’t get pinched in the seal like mine does. Hope you find this useful! Cheers! Geoff

Your working too hard 😊. We have been using eley hose quick connects for several years and they have served us well and do not leak. A quick and simple way to hook up our water hose sans pliers. https://www.eleyhosereels.com/products/garden-hose-quick-connectors?srsltid=AfmBOorhl73lbWlG-pTRQ_aHjougxYv88x-aD4DfsGjJACCyuZjoAX0t More info here -

Welcome from Hull #1045, Jolli Olli. Oliver doesn't customize individual trailers. Oliver does offer a composting toilet, and installing a different manufacturer is not going to happen through Oliver. I think I would live with the sink. Sleeping is about the only thing we do so the sink tank wouldn't even be on our radar to change. Solar and lithium battery upgrades above the Platinum will be on you. The fresh, gray, and black tanks go in every trailer. Some have shared their mod to pipe their composting toilet urine container to the black tank so they don't have empty multiple times in a day. One owner switched out their composting toilet to another brand and had to drive to that dealer to get things changed Not sure about when the soft start was added as standard with the Truma AC, either '24 or '25. At the Texas Oliver Rally Truma was present and they spent over 2 days adding the soft start to Owners that had the Truma AC added in '23 and '24. Keep asking away. We are all a family.

Caption for above pic? "Three old ugly guys standing in front of a great looking camper" 😂

For reference: Our 2022 has 340W of solar and 630Ah of lithium (I mixed that up in the earlier post). We have the 3-way fridge instead of the compressor electric and we have the Dometic A/C with soft start. We run the fridge on 12v while driving. We camp on the east coast, usually without hookups, 3 seasons, up to 3 weeks at a time. We've never come close to depleting our batteries. I don't think we've even gotten down to 50%. The lowest I recall was 63% after a week in full shade with mostly rainy weather. With normal use - coffee maker, toaster oven, lights, fan, water pump, TV, furnace, charging devices, etc. - the solar usually gets us back to 100% SOC every day. The only caveat is air conditioner use. If we wanted to run the A/C for multiple hours we'd need to use our generator. In practice, in the summer we might run it for an hour or so before bed while watching TV. That might consume 10% SOC. If it's sunny the next day the solar tops us off. We carry a 2kW Honda generator but never use it. Probably should stop lugging it around...

Units with the factory installed composting toilet come with the black tank installed but not connected to anything but I wouldn't use it for fresh water, even if it was never used. The black tank material is not potable water rated like the fresh tank. OTOH, others with composting toilets have converted the black tank for either additional gray water capacity or even urine disposal. If you get the Platinum Lithium package with 640Ah of batteries I think you'll find you have plenty of power. It's actually been overkill for us.

Whether the Oliver is a "true 4-season camper" depends on where you camp. For the southern USA, where Olivers are made, it can withstand all four seasons if you monitor temps carefully and take a few precautions (like pulling the outside faucet inside during cold snaps, while running the furnace 24/7). In the northwest USA, where we live and generally camp, the plumbing system is not sufficiently insulated and protected to enable camping in the "dead of winter." When overnight lows drop down to low single digits F (like this week in the central Idaho mountains), some plumbing components in a standard Oliver will freeze and break, even with the furnace running 24/7. If you plan to do that kind of camping, there are other (even more expensive!) trailers on the market designed to withstand such temps. We don't camp in the dead of winter, so our Oliver Elite II meets our needs wonderfully. Like you, I researched extensively before we opted to pay the premium for an Oliver. After 2+ years of ownership, we wouldn't trade it for anything else on the market.

In addition to @johnwen's comments regarding the spacing of the bracket from the window frame - My first inclination was to tighten the brackets to the frame - loose screws and bolts tend to make me believe that things should be tight - but in the case of these blinds this thinking was wrong. The "spacers" allowed for the bracket screws to be tight but (as @johnwen says) it also allowed for the bracket to be positioned correctly in order to engage the frame of the blinds properly. Another thought is that since you have already "used" the frame clips multiple times and since these clips were apparently not fully seated in the first place, it is possible that they have lost a bit of "spring" and/or have become slightly collapsed such that they no longer hold as they once did. The solution for this is either new clips (my favorite) or to try to bend the original clips back into something near the original position (do not try to do this while the clips are on the window frame). If you are going to be at the 2025 Owner's Rally let me know and I'll bring you a few new clips. Or, contact Oliver Service and they will send you a couple. Bill

I'm not really sure of this... I have one without soft-start and Lithium Pro. I've found that when running AC, the batteries reach Low Battery Cut-Off long before the charge level reaches the NeverDie threshold. When I turn the batteries back on, they show much more charge than 10% (I've seen 50%). I suspect the start-up surge current can fool the batteries BMS into believing the charge has dropped to LBCO. At high charge levels, the batteries will start up the Truma. If I run only the Norcold fridge on DC, the batteries don't cut off early.

First - Welcome and glad that you are here. Thanks for the kind words! Second - Obviously, if you purchase a used Oliver, the price will be based on what you and the owner negotiate. The price as posted by Oliver might have a little bit of "wiggle" room in it but not much - here I'm talking about 1 to 2 thousand dollars - and even this is generally found by getting a discount on an option or a "floor" model type of thing. I've not dealt with any of the dealers but I'd guess that the bottom line price from them will be very much in line with the price from the factory. Speaking of the factory - don't be reluctant to give them a call. They will NOT harass you, sell your info, etc. However, they are a great source for information relative to options on models and what just might be available at various dealers (to include anything that might be at the factory). Good luck! Bill

At Spirit of the Suwannee Music Park near Live Oak Florida for the 9th Eggs ‘n S’mores Fiberglass Rally. Then bouncing northern Florida until late February and a short cruise out of Jacksonville. It’s a lot nicer than the snow at home in northern Ohio!

You mean that you simply can't craw in there to get what you want?😁

pix may help clarify Burner unit shown below only has end 2 tabs bent to crimp unit to frame. This is the old design being recalled. Newer units (being replaced in recall service) have all tabs crimped.

@Ronbrink All the units with the effected s/n are determined to be nonconforming since only the end burners have the tabs crimpted. The new corrected units will have all the burner end tabs crimpted.

Older hulls are equal to the newer and every used dollar saved allows you to add mods that are important and special to you. Check the Modifications forum. Who needs more water? We do! 🤣 Olivers have a boondocking port where the onboard water pump will fill the FWT from an external source. Many members have 1-2 small 5-gal tanks for this reason. Not good enough for boondocking in Arizona (or Colorado)! We always have an extra 35 gallons, don't leave home without it! https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/horizontal-leg-tank-35-gal

Re my late model specific questions, spoke with Sales at Oliver and their SS sink manufacturer stopped making them, they make their own counters and so, the molded sink. Also per Oliver, On Truma A/C soft start, with the 3k inverter, the Truma doesn't need a soft start. Good to know. Between Oliver staff and this forum - very helpful, great community.

Nice! I think I'd need several sets!

Things have a bad habit of sliding to the front of our truck bed, under the hard tonneau cover and out of reach. This hook works great. scottchen PRO RV Awning Rod Opener Easy Reach Telescopic Puller 13-3/4" to 44-3/4" Stainless Steel Silver & Black - 1pack https://a.co/d/aQmHp1H

Thanks Patriot for this reminder. I read your original post over a year ago. Expensive but if truly no leaking in your years of experience, then worth it. They’re 10% off now and I like how you can order x number of male/female fittings. That will take some counting before ordering. On my upgrade list!

@jd1923 Good idea. Although, I would question how waterproof those switches really are. The rubber boot does not do it for me.

Yes, yes and yes... precisely my thinking, but also saving myself quite a bit of time with a 2023+ model that has a lot of this already plumbed/wired is also a consideration, i.e. get a solid base and spend my time making better for our needs rather than getting it to where it needs to be just for a base case. Definitely weighing all that now though. I've read through the Mod's section (maybe first 7-8 pages so far) and searched as well... saw a lot of your work and other's - great stuff and much appreciated. Kept thinking/wanted to reply (but old thread and hadn't joined here yet)... I installed the Redarc BMS 30 on my current moto/toy trailer. The BMS 30 (Amp) is an AC, DC and MPPT charger all in one unit, selectable for all battery types. I've been very happy with it. And nice on hauling water... Unfortunately I don't have the luxury/capacity of my Ram Cummins(es) any more - I've had 4 HD Rams, a '97 2500 gasser, '04 3500 Cummins, '10 3500 Cummins, then went backward (for pre ULSD/DEF/Emission stuff, and much better mpg) to an early '06 2500 Cummins. Unfortunately my wife gets car sick in them, even after a top of the line Carli suspension upgrade on the '06. But I shouldn't have an issue hauling an extra 15 gallons now where needed.

Had similar issues with my Legacy1 trailer. Washboarded roads really puts these connections to the test. I had Oliver send me some extra clips which I added in addition to the OEM clips. One or two per shade as I recall. I then used thin nylon washers to shim the clips out so they were all in plane and fully engaged the groove on the back of the frame (use a straightedge). Since then, I have also started towing with all shades in the up position (both sheer and blackout pulled up). This puts the drawbars (?) at the top of the shade frame, placing a little more weight at the top of the frame and not stressing out the clips as much. So far so good. Dave

All pretty much inline with my current understanding and thank you. So it has been added, perhaps on late 2024+ builds - and also kinda wondering for the minimum size gen needed should we need in the SW desert. But I'm also familiar with DIY soft start addition on Dometic units - but had read here that Truma wouldn't honor warranty on DIY soft start installs.

@Olive2Roam What tire pressure are you running?

Given this statement, you would save money buying an Oliver with little to no solar or inverter and LA batteries. Would be good to have another DIY sort contributing on our Forum! 😂 Ours had two OEM Zamp solar panels (320W), 2KW Xantrex and newer LA batteries. Since you asked about costs, for $3300 we added 600AH Epoch LiFePO4, Victron 3KVA MP2 inverter, new buses, cooling fan, and mounting hardware. The net cost was $2700 after selling the used batteries and inverter. For another $1,300, I could add the 460AH Epoch Essentials, installed under the pantry, providing 1060AH total (or a third 300AH Epoch in the battery bay). How much is the Platinum Package? You could mount three 200W solar panels if your Oliver comes with none, or add a third if it has two. We went with adding the Renogy 400W suitcase (for 720 total with OEM rooftop panels) and Victron 30A MPPT SC, with cabling and Anderson connectors this came to $800. These prices are for parts only, DIY labor of course. And the Renogy 400W is $100 cheaper today than it was last year. Starting today on my DC-DC charger installation, adding a Victron Orion XS 50A. With 4AWG cabling and SB175 Anderson connectors and lugs it came to $525 total. This would be in addition to upgrading the alternator on your tow vehicle (TV). OTT recently advertised a sale on adding a DC-DC charger. They would supply the older less-efficient Victron 30A charger and install only the Oliver side of the system (tow vehicle cabling and installation not included), all for the sale price of $1,300, WOW! 🤣 You could also spend big bucks for the Truma A/C on a newer hull. Or replace a noisy Dometic Penguin II with an Atmos A/C with SoftStart for $1,650 shipped. The Atmos is the best A/C unit out there to run on inverter, since it runs efficiently on R32 refrigerant (10A continuous vs. 15A+). There are many mods postings on all of this, all of mine and from many other members. Like I said before, check out Modifications section or search for your keyword of interest! Best wishes in your pursuit!

Good idea on the Barker valve “helper, but I already jumped on the Valterra electric valve. That said: @rich.dev “has the best idea, I think. Put the switches where the current handles are located. I would scrap the supplied wire harness (likely not long enough) and the supplied (awkward) switch and plate and buy 3 marine grade (waterproof) simple toggle switches, up for open and down means closed! They will fit in the holes left by the pull handles once removed.” Yep - the supplied cable is only about 7 feet long - and needs to be twice that. As for the switch, it’s DPDT -with- a pilot light - so a bit special - though I can likely just do a separate pilot light. Pretty sure those two would fit into the existing T-handle hole and an extra one for the pilot light. The connectors are another issue as the disconnect between the valve and the harness is fairly special - looks like a Molex knock-off to me. I’ll likely have to replace that connector with a more standard one. Finally, I think I’ll piggyback the 12v power for the valve onto the curb side leveling jack. It’s right there in the same area, has a capable enough circuit, and is highly unlikely to be used at the same time. So - though it’s not a drop-in solution, it’s still gonna be less expensive than paying Oliver to install it, and can be done on my own schedule. Until then - I have a “manual” valve that I have to go under the forward dinette seat to actuate. V

I checked my s/n yesterday and it falls within the ‘nonconforming’ group. But I remain confused, are ALL of the units installed and deemed ‘nonconforming’ (according to the serial number) in need of the recall replacement or just SOME identified upon inspection to have a loose burner bracket assembly? Maybe someone can clarify.

Could be....also wiggle the corners slightly. If it's not secure you'll know. Best of luck :)

Just my 2 cents...we have an LE2 and had the same problem with one of our shades. I also thought they were securely fastened until I realized how the metal clips actually held the window casing on. The backs of the window casings have a recessed channel that accept the metal clips and some were loose or did not protrude far enough into the channels. Some clips have fiberglass strips beneath them and some don't. I guess that was a mod Oliver did to get all clips to hold. The trick for us, after ensuring the screws holding the clips were tight, was to add a strip of fiberglass to a clip, if necessary, to make sure the clip would protrude into the channel far enough to lock in. So if one doesn't seem to grab then it probably need a spacer. And if it already has one it's possible it needs a thicker spacer (I've not seen this however). We don't have the problem anymore but we still occasionally check if the screws are tight. And it doesn't take much to strip those screw holes, so don't overtighten. We found that if we lined up all clips on either the top or bottom channel and popped it in then the other side is very easy to pop in. Hope this helps :) John

I just found something that may be better for those of us who have waste drain valves in good condition but with a hard pull or merely wanting to go electric. You do not have to remove the valves to install this motorized helper: https://www.barkermfg.com/auto-drains.html

And that's the hard part! Running wire and mounting switches NP! Yes, of course more expensive with much greater functionality! Thank you, I just added this to my Wishlist! If you are going to all the work of replacing the valve, I would certainly go this path. I like the short pull (backup) handle that would be more reliable than a 12 FT cable and simple electric motors are generally reliable. I replaced ALL my manual water valves to electric already. This is a no-brainer for our hull! This valve is rated 4.5 on Amazon with 200 reviews. @rich.dev has the best idea, I think. Put the switches where the current handles are located. I would scrap the supplied wire harness (likely not long enough) and the supplied (awkward) switch and plate and buy 3 marine grade (waterproof) simple toggle switches, up for open and down means closed! They will fit in the holes left by the pull handles once removed. Run stranded 14 AWG wire which should be fine since they use a 5A fuse in the switch. I would also relocate all fuses to my 12VDC positive bus. Handy since I relocated it to under the rear dinette seat. Better to have all fuses centrally located than at the switch or the motor (for all appliances). I would replace all three (3) valves, sooner or later. Really dislike the one by the toilet that keeps the gray from backing up. How many times have we forgot that and have to climb back up in the trailer. All switches together, in the same outside location makes sense to me. We always have that rear hatch open when leaving a campsite anyway. Added a couple pics, food for thought, and thanks again for this idea! 😂

Just in case, before you install an electric valve: If you disconnect the cable from the existing valve does the cable pull out of its sheath easily? If so, the resistance might be in the valve itself. That happened to us. Valve lubricant worked for a while but the valve eventually leaked and had to be replaced. Still cheaper than an electric valve and less to go wrong in the future. (Electric gate valves add a motor and wiring to a previously simple system.)

Could be handy for the three-way units especially. It would need to include a means for terminating the propane flow. The 120 and 12 volt power sources would eventually ground and blow fuses so I would not be overly concerned about their contributing as reignition sources. GJ

The sound of the circulating pump and the sound of the flame coming on are normal. If you’re outside and listening very carefully, you’ll likely hear the “ticking” of the igniter and a fan noise that keeps the combustion going in the right direction. Those are normal sounds. The Truma manual says that “boiling water” sounds means you need to descale. Popping, whooshing, thumping, or banging are abnormal sounds associated with improper combustion from gas burning in the wrong places. That was my tip-off to the problem. “Galway Girl’s” documentation of the loose burner tube problem is what prompted me to pull out the burner yo check the tubes. I was initially “disappointed” to see the times were all in place. “Nuts! Now what’s the problem!?” I thought. Flipping the burner over and seeing that big plume of soot on the bottom of the tubes and around the nut attaching the gas line to the manifold prompted me to check the nut. Loose. Could move it freely with my fingers. Though I didn’t see much in the way of “crimps” on any of the burner tubes. (They’re smaller than I was expecting - my experience being with 2 foot long tubes on household gas boilers.) Mine were all in place and tight. Still, disappointing that a premium gas appliance in a premium trailer apparently didn’t get designed or assembled too carefully. Gas burning where it shouldn’t be goes beyond “inconvenient” and well into “dangerous” and “liability” territory. We put a couple of thousand miles on our LEII every year, and I’ve had several things vibrate or shake loose causing failures. It just reminds me that a good, thorough “preflight” inspection is called for and know trouble areas need to be checked frequently. Ironically, the stuff they tell you to check - like wheel lug torque - never seem to have issues. Go figure.

For those not able to read the NHTSA report here's an excerpt of the timeline of events leading to the recall. All new burner units are shipped from Truma with all 8 burner tube tabs crimped. (Ours literally fell apart on the road at one point so I did a self repair of the assembly.) ******* NHTSA Recorded Chronology : 2/17/22 Truma (Steve Bayne) reported during a OEM Baseline review approximately over the scope of 300 units, 8 units (2.5%) have experienced burner issues. Two warranty units with burners coming apart were| picked up during this onsite visit for return to Germany for evaluation. 2/17/22 - 12/31/22 Additional 4 customers reported burner failures. 7/18/22 Oliver request Truma's investigation reports from two units evaluated in Germany. 11/21/22 Truma (Mark Howlett) notified Oliver Travel Trailers (Paul Cameron) Germany made a design|| change to the burner assembly February 2022. Revision included the burner assembly tabs changed from two to all eight tabs folded. Truma concluded the safety features incorporated into the system, risk and severity is low. Safety factors include a) flame recognition sensor b) burner over temp switch and c) the housing contains a thermal event. 11/28/22 Oliver modified the support for the water heater and installed water heaters with only two of the eight tabs folded. On 4-Apr-24 these two units were reported in warrany for burner bracket assembly failures. 2/8/23 - present Oliver has installed Truma water heaters with modified burner bracket assemblies with eight tabs folded, no failures for the burner assembly has been reported to date. 1/3/24 - 7/17/24 Customers with water heaters containing burner bracket assemblies with two tabs folded replaced under warranty experienced repeat burner bracket failures. 11/13/24 Oliver Travel Trailers determined to replace all Truma water heater burner assemblies with two tabs folded to the confirmed eight tabs folded retention feature. ******

There is now a recall from Oliver on this burner assembly. Effected hull numbers should be getting Oliver issued recall letters. ***** text from letter showing SN range of effective water heaters (full letter below) ***** Dear Valued Customer, This notice is sent to you in accordance with the National Highway Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Oliver Travel Trailers has decided that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in certain 2016 – 2024 Legacy Elite I and Legacy Elite II travel trailers manufactured between April 25, 2016, and February 8, 2023. WHAT IS THE DEFECT? The Truma water heater burner bracket assembly may become loose. **NOTE by Craig - The effected burner assembly tubes were not ALL crimped in place during manufacture, only the ones on each end were crimped. The TRUMA Mfg line has made a mfg line change and now ALL tubes are crimped in place. New burners for the recall will meet this standard.** EVALUATION OF THE RISK TO THE VEHICLE AND OPERATOR(S) RELATED TO THE RECALL. Legacy Elite I and Legacy Elite II equipped with a Truma water heater with a loose burner bracket assembly may allow ignition failures, wire damage, and risk of a brief flame discharge, increasing the risk of a fire. HOW DO I KNOW IF MY TRAVEL TRAILER IS PART OF THE 24V876 RECALL? 1. Find the water heater serial number located on the front cover. (see below) The water heater with serial number less than DLE60C-33096055 is nonconforming. 2. If you are unsure, call 1-888-526-3978 or email us at ottwarranty@olivertraveltrailers.com to confirm that your Truma water heater is one in the population of recalled units for Recall 24V876. WHAT IS THE REMEDY? Your Legacy Elite I or Legacy Elite II was manufactured within the affected period using this component. Your unit must be inspected to ensure the Truma water heater is not within the recall population as identified by the Truma model-serial number. The remedy will be the replacement of the water heater burner assembly, free of charge. The replacement water heater burner assembly will be sent with instructions to complete the installation by a qualified RV technician. The replacement should take approximately one-half hour to complete. Oliver Travel Trailers will cover the cost for the remedy repair. Water heater burner assemblies can be replaced at an authorized service center. WHAT IF YOU HAVE PREVIOUSLY PAID FOR REPAIRS FOR THIS PARTICULAR CONDITION? If you have already paid for a repair that is within the scope of this defect under recall, you still need to have this recall inspected and/or performed to ensure the correct parts and procedures were utilized. Additionally, you may be eligible for a refund of previously paid repairs. Refunds will only be provided for repairs performed within the scope of the defect under recall. Please send the service invoice to the following address: Oliver Travel Trailers Atten: OTT QUALITY MANAGER 609 Swan Ave. Hohenwald, TN 38462 Phone: 1-888-526-3978 Email: OTTWarranty@olivertraveltrailers.com Below is attached it the NhTSA report on the topic. RCLRPT-24V876-7998.PDF Below attached is the generic recall letter from Oliver...when mailed to you it has your VIN # inserted. RCONL-24V876-1556.pdfRCONL-24V876-1556.pdf Hope this is useful info. I'm still waiting on a reply from Oliver on when/how I can get the parts for repair.

Yes, thanks for the inspiration! I purchased some magnetic catches (set of four) for $7, and asked my Son to design and 3D print a couple of mounting blocks. I decided to use the magnetic halves from two paired sets for a stronger, single catch. Here is what I did: Mounting blocks with recess for flush fitment of magnetic catch components, shown here as a pair. View of optional mounting holes and longer screws for vertical attachment. Catch components screw-mounted into block recess, shown as a pair. Center interior door attachment, horizontal mount using screws. Center interior freezer attachment, vertical mount using Alien Tape rather than screws as a preliminary precaution. Completed install. I’m very pleased with the holding power of the dual magnet approach, now for some field testing!

First thing I would do is to open the dinette seat and give a push on the silver cylinder on top of the valve. Can you push it down (this is after closing with the cable)? If you can, then a simple cable adjustment may be all that is needed. There’s a set screw on top that holds the cable in, it may have slipped over time (mine did). I’ve adjusted it a couple of times over the years. Also, you could have some black water debris that is stuck in the bottom of the slot where the blade rests when closed. I also had that happen and after taking it out and cleaning it all was well. Mike

Fix for falling shade frames. I tried replacing the clips and applied silicone to help hold. Nope. The large shade frame fell off again on the last trip so I was determined to do something different. The shade frames will never fall off again. I removed all of the clips and their spacers. Cut and installed 4" long sections of aluminum c-channel purchased from Home Depot using original screws along with blue Loctite. Then placed the frames back on, drilled and attached the shade frames with #6 stainless steel screws. Fitment is perfect. Hope this helps others. Photos attached.

Yes, the last issue was from Truma factory, improper torque on the regulated gas line into the burner. Nova Scotia was fantastic. view from site 54 at The Islands PP.

2022 LEII #1029 here. been using our Oliver pretty steadily - on our 4th multi-month outing. Currently in Manatee Springs (Chiefland) Florida. Starting having an issue with our Truma AquaGo Comfort water heater. It heated fine, but was noisy with a “thumping” or banging noise when the burner lit. Searching the forums, we found Galway Girl’s post about burner tubes shaking loose, and her description of “popping” sounded pretty close to our symptoms. Luckily, I travel with a lot of tools, so I investigated looking for the loose burner tubes. Nope, all tight and in place. What I did find was a little scary. (See the attached photo.) the nut holding the main gas line to the burner manifold was quite loose. You can see by the soot on the bottom of the burner assembly and nut that a lot of gas was escaping and burning in the wrong place. I tightened the nut up as much as I dared - not wanting to twist the fitting out of the manifold and put the whole thing back together. It now works fine. That said, I’m sure this nut will vibrate loose again, so between now and then I’ll have to think of a fix. Pipe dope suitable for LP is a possibility. Between this and the problem Galway Girl posted - and more than one incident of fires - it seems Truma had (has?) a QC or design problem that could lead to so serious consequences.

Previous owner took the 2019 Oliver Elite II into a 'Truma Service Provider'. The Truma was not operationally. The previous owner showed me the last service ticket that the Truma was Fixed, before I purchased the Oliver. It did not work. I took it apart... obviously... the Service Provider was tired of hearing from the Precious Owner, after THREE Service calls. The Fourthm maybe third was the copy given to me. When I called the Truma Service that did the 'service under warranty', they became tired of me, as well. I have wondered if Truma Inc. was charged for these Service Calls. I was notified in the U S Mail recently, that Truma would replace the... PART... that was faulty. A RECALL. Of what kind? I sent photographs of MY Truma to Oliver...My Repairs... when I discovered the Truma leaked water into the Oliver... see photograph. I was disappointed that Oliver Inc. would not do anything to make it right. The original owner obviously had no fix and did not intentionally damage the copper tank heater. Obviously the local Service Provider... DID FIX IT... permanently. When I received the Recall Notice... I was not approved by Oliver Inc.... as I tried to FIX IT, myself. Once removing parts... no wonder it was not going to work. I will find a much simpler system to install, like a 6 gallon simple Dometic Hot Water system, like the one that has operated perfectly in my 2019 Airstream, since new. Am I happy? Guess. My Truma was within the numbers of the so called recall. My Truma never worked for me, nor the original owner. I have owned the Oliver Elite II since February 2022. My Problem... says Truma and Oliver. Otherwise our perfect Off the Grid Boondocking travel trailer. I have had three Airstreams, new since 2006. Kept the 2019 27 foot Airstream and the 2019 Oliver Elite II. I like a Travel Trailer that is simple to operate, works, and some appliances that can be worked on if in remote locations. The 6 gallon Dometics worked perfectly since 2006. When I began to FIX the Truma myself... This is WHAT I FOUND. Photographs are October 2022. Purchased Oliver February 2022 from original owner. The Truma was an UPGRADE for an Oliver. ...for what? For... Selling spare parts... I guess. I also noted Truma is pushing their hot water tanks. Customer satisfaction is interesting. I know, I was an owner operated business for decades. Happy customers and friends return... I had to retire. I understand that a customer and referrals, keeps one busy. (I edited this after reading.)