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Ours has done this and we can recreate the issue, which is the door pressed into the black back stop puck. Even when using the door hook, constant wind pressure against that back stop has caused ours to crack on the inside, where the inset is hard and susceptible to cracking when under flex/pressure. Stand and push your door into the puck and you can see it flex. Thus when opening the door, if the wind grabs it causing good whack against the back stop, then the cracking begins. We bought our trailer used, and the door never closed smoothly or easily. There was a dent on the inside of the door, but we didn’t think that affected function. Turns out, that dent was probably something hard enough to bend the door frame and then, even when latched, there was play in the door allowing flex on the back stop, so here we are. We are ordering a new door from Oliver and having it installed. 2019 E2 hull #550

I am old as well and we both have memories of our roadster days. I once wore a new set of tires bald in 12,000 miles with my 68 Datsun 1600. Anyway, I live in the inner city (Portland OR.) and have a low height garage so a truck is just not practical for me and on street parking in my neighborhood is a challenge. My plan when I first purchased #657 was to limp along with the 4Runner just long enough until a tow capable EV SUV became available. The Rivian would work but according to my wife I can't afford one. And actually, the 4Runner is working out much better than I could have hoped. Of course, having driven nothing but manual transmission cars most of my life (like you probably), I am very comfortable manually shifting the automatic when towing to enhance performance and the transmission in my 4Runner is designed for maximum engine braking when descending. I am comfortable driving in the mountains and rarely have to use the brakes much to control speed, even on 6% downhill grades. I have found that the vehicle struggles with an OEM air filter but performance excels with a K&N air filter. I do have to be careful in loading my TV and have become accustomed to traveling light. If I travel with both my wife and dog, I have used up my cargo capacity and most everything else goes in the Ollie. I always keep the Ollie below 6,000 lbs. My 4Runner is a rare version called the V8 Limited that was factory set up for towing and was made in a Lexus factory in Japan. I am the original owner. I think it is almost identical to your GX470 but mine has the x-reas schocks and a self-leveling rear end which yours may not have. It is also factory rated to tow 7,000 lbs which I believe is a bit more than the GX470. Anyway, right before I drove 2,400 miles to pick up my new Ollie, I replaced the x-reas shocks and air springs at a cost of $5,600 and had a complete brake replacement with all OEM parts at a cost of $2,600. I now have over 20,00 miles of towing my Ollie and quite a bit of it has been on interstates in the mountains of Oregon, Washington and Utah. The car does struggle somewhat at high altitudes going uphill on windy two lane roads, but downhill is never a problem and I have never experienced any sway. That said I sure hope to upgrade to a more capable TV soon. Then we can start bringing a few toys along with us🤪

Bulldog HD Shock Absorber Replaces 555001 For Trailer Leaf Spring Retro Kit 19-050000007 These are the shocks that I ordered based on other folks recommendations. They are pretty substantial shocks and I haven't installed yet as they didn't come until November, 2024. The guidance I received from this forum suggested that the top rubber cushions might need to be compressed a bit more than you would be inclined to do because of they are a bit larger than the originals. I paid $128.00 for 4 for our LEII.

We try to never have our AGM batteries discharged beyond 12.6V. This can be very challenging in cold weather as our Dometic Furnace squirrel cage can use a lot of Ah overnight. If you can keep your SOC over 80 percent at all times, we never go below 90 percent, you will double the life of your batteries otherwise you can expect only so many cycles. The advantage of Lithium is that they can be discharged more deeply and cycled many more times. The usual expectation for LiFePO batteries is about 3000 cycles. The best you can hope for AGMs are 750 cycles if you keep SOC above 90 percent.

Just a quick note on the use of twist drills - while they will cut through mild steel and do an adequate job, the use of an annular cutter is likely to yield better results. As these cut only the outer "annulus" of the hole versus a twist bit that removes all of the material in the hole - they cut quicker and cleaner. At least that has been my experience with them on several steel and aluminum projects. The smaller sizes are not terribly expensive and have been a valuable part of my shop's tool collection for several years now. One project I used them on was the replacement of the stock Bulldog coupler with the 2 5/16" size when we updated our Andersen hitch. https://www.hougen.com/cutters/annular-cutter-kits/annular-cutter-kits.html

The Oliver EII tongue weight is already too light. Mine measures just under 9% and 9-15% is recommend. I will get mine 10-12% with some work. Or I could remount the OEM bike rack and hang my dirt bike off the back. 🤣 Matters less for me since if the trailer sways descending on a curve road, with a rebuilt HD 3/4 ton suspension and well over 1000 LBS in available TV cargo weight. When we first purchased our Oliver, I pulled it around town behind our ‘08 GX470. Got home and started looking for a good used truck, just as a TV. Be very careful with that rig if/when driving in the mountains. I wouldn’t, but I’m old and boring, I used to drive my ‘75 Alfa Romeo Spyder fast enough to get air! 🤣

My choice of propane tanks goes to (minimizing) weight being the highest priority. My tow vehicle (TV) has very little cargo capacity so minimizing tongue weight is very important to me. I am an outlier in that regard on this forum. To minimize weight I switched to composite propane tanks shortly after I acquired my LEII. When empty, they weigh about 1/2 of what a common steel tank weighs although the capacities are reduced somewhat. The 20 lb equivalent holds 17 lbs and the 30 lb equivalent holds 22 lbs of propane. Most people couldn't justify the cost because they are much more expensive than steel tanks. However, if lowering tongue weight is important for you as it is for me, you might want to check them out. They are way less expensive then a new TV🤑 I am pretty sure there are a few of you out there that would really appreciate the light weight and don't do extensive cold weather camping. Even if I get a new tow vehicle, I will probably continue to use the composite tanks because they are so much nicer for everyday use. In addition to being much lighter when full, they have a wide base and are extremely stable in the back of the vehicle without tie-downs. Also, they have no sharp edges whatsoever so it is much easier to carry around and pack in the Ollie when carrying a spare tank as I do for cold weather camping. I have never had any problems getting them refilled. They are made in Europe and imported by Viking Cylinders. https://www.vikingcylinders.com/online-shop/ Since they have a much larger diameter base, if you switch to them you will need to switch out your 2 tank mounting tray inside of the doghouse. Viking Cylinders sells a custom fit replacement tray for $40 and the old tray is easy to swap out for the new one and back again if necessary.

Very nice! We have similar tastes. 😂 Your tech did a fine job too. Wondering why the 3-pin connector? Maybe one lead is just a blank. It looks solid though, easy to connect and a clean install. The Victron suggested vertical installation is not possible in the Oliver. Yours is horizontal like the rest of ours and the fan is a necessity in the South or SW. Do you have the 13.5 or 11K BTU Penguin? You may want to get the 15K BTU Atmos A/C with heat pump, which at 10A uses about 60% AH of the 13.5K P2. I plan to install one this spring to run the air longer and not hear that loud noise anymore. The problem with consuming for example 50% SOC (300AH) running the A/C is the recharging takes much longer. Two hours towing at 30A DC-DC will only increase SOC by 10%. A long day on the road, a sunny Florida day with solar and the charge rate would increase. Did your hull have solar already? @gatorewc your name reads like you live in Florida too, where small solar companies are everywhere. The price should certainly be lower, much lower without travel, and you cannot get the preferred Victron products and less expensive, greater capacity Epoch batteries from OTT (Xantrex with Lithionics). I also purchased the Orion XS 50A DC-DC charger, 4 AWG cable with Anderson connectors. Mine is still on the workbench, to be installed this month! @KeysConchs I know you will enjoy your new Victron inverter/charger system. Bravo! https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/10420-off-grid-upgrade-minimal-design-–-victron-multiplus-ii-and-600ah-epoch-lifepo4/#comment-112871

Joe & Janet - A few more quick thoughts since you are "first timers" - 1 - bring a camera. You will not remember all of the things you see. A picture will help several months down the road to jog your memory of that mod you thought was interesting. 2 - bring a notebook for many of the same reasons you bring a camera. 3 - bring good walking shoes. I think that you will find that one of the better benefits of attending the Rally is meeting and talking to other owners. This is best done by simply grabbing that camera and notebook and going for a walk. 4 - bring a bike. For many of the same reasons as #3 above. Also, depending on where you are camped, a bike can make quick work of getting down to the vendor area, the Beach Pavilion, camp store/check-in or simply to another campsite. A bike certainly isn't necessary but it can save some walking/driving. Unless you are an exceptional biker - don't even think about biking up to the Lodge for presentations and seminars. The hill is fairly steep. 5 - be mindful of wildlife. Early in the morning and at dusk the deer really do come out and they are not afraid of humans and vehicles. Also, particularly if you are camped up near the road note that there have been reports of snakes seeking the warmth of the asphalt. I've never noticed a poisonous snake but a bite is a bite - just keep an eye out if you tend to walk around after sunset. There really aren't many but --- 6 - be sure to save some time to relax. Usually I get back home from the Rally really tired. The State Park is really pretty - be sure to schedule watching the sunset from up at the Lodge deck or from down by the water. If you see a group around a campfire or even someone simply relaxing outside their Ollie, grab a chair and ask to join them. 7 - never leave your Ollie with the awning deployed. A few years ago a sudden storm came up and at least four Ollies had the awning destroyed. Even last year a sudden storm nearly claimed an awning or two. 8 - with reference to #3 above - Do not be afraid to approach people or simply knock on a door. Most of us love to talk about these trailers and are more than happy to show you what we mods have done. 9 - if you have (business) cards bring them. This will save you a bunch of time giving out this information if you chose to do so. 10 - don't worry about what to bring. We are all camping! Attire for the opening meeting will range from shorts and t-shirts to business slacks and collared shirt. Most will have nice jeans and a golf type polo or shirt. Always bring a sweater or light jacket when going up to the Lodge - there ae times when the air conditioning can be a bit cool. In this same vein a hat and sun glasses are always a good idea when going down near the lake. For supplies - there are a couple of grocery stores in Guntersville to include a nice Publix. There are also hardware stores and the like. There are a number of nice casual restaurants in town too. 11 - finally, as with virtually all things, don't be afraid to ask for recommendations, to borrow just about anything, advice on how to fix just about all things related to your Oliver, etc.. There will be plenty of owners in attendance that will be more than willing to help with just about anything you might need. Bill

Usually only one of the HDMI inputs on a TV are labeled "ARC". You might want to check that the HDMI cable coming from your stereo is plugged into it.

I'm the only one I know of who has removed the door to reseal it. Super easy job. My door frame on my older 2016, #110 did have Olivers name on the Lippert factory sticker, so that might mean they're custom for Oliver's, or used to be. Would be an easy job to put on new door frame. Just have good quality butyl tape and double up the thickness of the butyl tape near the center areas of the door frame on both left and right sides. I have posted pictures on this thread .

We don't have Alcans, but as information, replaced original Monroe shocks with Bulldog 1213-0656 shocks on our Dexter 5200lb axles with 5 leaf Dexter springs.

Made it! Took it slow and it was all good. The spring is flat like a pancake, but it held. The Nissan Titan pulls it well and I'm pretty sure will be a great towing platform. Although I am puzzled as to exactly why you need to keep the speed 50mph or below for the first 500 towing miles for break in. Thanks everyone for the advice. Sure do appreciate it. Also... The place I took it to, RV Services in Asheville looks like a good shop. They have two Oliver owners that store their trailers with them. Will give a better review after the work is done. Thanks again, Scotty

FWIW.. Completed the last recommended torquing of my new Alcan 5 leaf pack 9/16 Ubolts at 596 miles. All 16 nuts were in spec and good to go except on which required a 1/4 turn. I will recheck again whenever we decide to head back home to NC. Off to Yellowstone tomorrow. Happy and Safe Travels!

The door on our 2019 cracked and we had it replaced at Oliver. Our crack was on the outside but started under the original clip-style window. We had a days-long period of snow, ice and single digit temperatures and noticed it after the trailer thawed out.

We first experienced cracks in the fiberglass interior of the door about four years ago. Initially, there were only a few. Over time, the cracks spread spider-web like over most of the door, widening as they spread. When the cracks first appeared, I had contacted the Oliver Service Dept. for guidance. Service did not know what would cause the cracks. The only option was to replace the door (Mike Sharpe also checked with a tech who had tried to replace the cracked fiberglass in another door, but had determined that was not feasible.). I also contacted Lippert, the door's manufacturer, for its take on the possible cause, but Lippert had nothing to offer on what might have caused it. We lived with the spreading and widening cracks for four years, but bit the bullet earlier this year and replaced the door while in Hohenwald for other work on the Ollie. The new door is still manufactured by Lippert, and still features the same pebbled fiberglass on its interior. A major difference, however, is that the door closes much more easily. Now, a nudge will close it whereas the old door had to be firmly closed (a light slam?.). I have to wonder if that continuous hard closing caused the cracking? The other feature that I don't remember from the first door is the new door appears to have first installed within a frame, which would have then been attached to the Ollie's frame. I never noticed if the first door was built into its own frame, or not.

Your profile shows a 2017. Even so, I'd open a service ticket. Those cracks look like the door was let go in wind, and stressed, to me. White duct tape will seal it for now. I'd guess a new door is in order. Imo.

I completely understand where you are coming from. However, coming from a rock crawling and jeeping background I can understand the warranty period for their products as their main business is building custom suspensions for people who will take their 4x4 rigs to places like Moab and do things to them that a teenager wouldn't do to a stolen rental car. Over time and as ALCAN gets more into the RV suspension business, perhaps their RV spring warranty will split from their off-roading line and fall more in line with that which we are used to seeing in our world. Until then and knowing what their rock crawling customers do to their products and that the springs I purchased for my trailer are built with the same raw materials and using the same process as their offroad springs I am confident of my purchase.

I agree but it means a lot of maintenance.

“Agree with @Ronbrink and @jd1923: "Old" is not necessarily a bad thing (sometimes).” I agree as well.

OBTW: Our new USA-made steel 5-pack springs should arrive from ALCAN Springs (Grand Junction, CO) around MAR26-ish. $671 (incl. new U-bolts), no tax, plus shipping to NM from CO. FYI: Owners interested in this mod should note that according to Mike from ALCAN, U-bolts are a one-time use item. Once they're mounted and torqued to specification and re-torqued after 50 miles, they form a "stretch fit" and cannot be reused once originally fixed to an axle.

Agree with @Ronbrink and @jd1923: "Old" is not necessarily a bad thing (sometimes). Here's my '84 R90, just north of 35k miles (my son and I literally took it to bare metal and brought it back to life in '06):

I tend to agree, the key word is ‘classic’! This is my ‘82 CJ-8 Scrambler, less than 70,000 made in the 1980-1985 model years.

Hey Scuba, your Olivers (yes, plural case) are so, soooooo old! Weren't they just made better, back in the day! (you have always had a special connection to OTT to make yours one of the BEST). Most of us who have endured a long hard lifetime, working hard every day. That has made us better! I have found that our older Hull #113 has very few of the problems cited at length in this forum. Older is better IMHO, reason why I have an older OTT and an older TV too! I can see why @SeaDawg has relished hers, for what now 16 years? My street bike is a 1984 GL1200, just hit it's 40th anniversary! I know y'all are biased, thinking nothing prettier than a kept Oliver, right? This old classic looks pretty good for 40, right! I'd say older, mo' better! The main thing I enjoy (relish) re this forum, is us like-minded individuals. Those of us wanting to work hard to make this very important OTT investment, better and better!

@ 1,500 trailers X 4 springs = 6,000 springs. I don't drive through snow/road chemicals and camp on the Texas coast 12-15 days each spring. I picked up an extra spring at the Mothership, service included inspection of the suspension, springs, and brakes. They found failed shock bushings and replaced under warranty. I take the trailer to a truck place every 3,000 miles to grease the zerks and will have them check the springs each visit. At some point I intend on going with Alcan and USA 5-leaf.

Mountainman198, Just to reinforce what you said above, I also spoke to Mike this morning on the subject of center bolt concern and he advised that his own production department had brought this to his attention after I sent him a picture of my axle and springs late last week. They in fact noted that our trailers had an underspring set up which would require a change in the bolt application. (Apparently, most TTs have oversprung setups.) They had already changed the product production protocols for our trailers before anyone on our side contacted them on the issue. Any YES, anyone ordering springs should specifically mention that they are being put on an Oliver TT. He also provided that "yes, they use a much thicker brass sleeve in their springs than the industry standard. This in no way affects the reuse of our existing bolts. It's just beefier, stronger, and longer lasting than what most use in their products. Relative to "other sources" for springs, he stated that there are no other manufactures of springs in the US that use the quality of metal that they use. (Take that comment for whatever it's worth). I will say this however, If you want the "best" of something, then it is by definition is a "sole source" acquisition (Oliver trailers are a good example of that. ) Finally, Mike commented several times about how impressed he is with the Oliver TT owner community. Thus far, I am very impressed with ALCAN's attention to detail and their customer service. My springs should be installed by the first of next week [18th(ish)] so I'll report back. Paul (2 HOBOS), hull 414 ON A SIDE NOTE: The reason I sent him a picture of our axle assembly last week was that he suggested that perhaps I wanted to consider upgrading the equalizer (point where front and rear springs attach just between the tires) to a MorRyde equalizer which considerably improves the ride. At that juncture I informed him that I had already been in contact with MorRyde and after much back-and-forth data swapping with them, MorRyde determined that their product was not applicable to our trailers since we have an undersprung leaf setup which doesn't allow enough clearance between the top of the axle and the trailer frame for their product use. Mike was confused by that until I sent him a picture of our assembly so he could see what I was talking about. This is the pic that their production folks looked at and immediately realized our trailers were an "underslung" design which caused them to change the bolt setup. Hope this was enlightening.

We're departing in less than two weeks for a six week, 5300+ mile trip around the US which is what is driving us to make the spring change NOW. I noted when I was doing my spring maintenance that the leading spring on the street side seemed to be flattening out slightly which, I am told, is the first sign of imminent leaf failure. Knowing my time constraints, Mike (at ALCAN) is expediting the production of a spring set for me to have them shipped in time for me to have my RV tech install them prior to our departure. (Yes, I could install them myself but I have a thousand other things I'm doing to prepare for this trip). As an aside: I'll be talking to Mike today (Monday the 11th) about the center bolt on his springs and ensure that they are appropriately applied for the Oliver "underslung" setup. (I'll report back on this). Cost of springs (4 sets), 4 new U bolts, and shipping is somewhere in the $750 - $800 range. He initially suggested 4 new HD shackles and 8 new shackle bolts but when I informed him the existing shackles on the Olivers have 1/2" thick side plates (which are already HD) he was pleasantly surprised and waived off the need for new ones which is a $200(ish) savings. Expecting (hoping) no surprises and I'll keep everyone informed of results. 2 HOBOS (hull 414) 2018 LEII

One needs to ask, why would a spring set rated for 2,000 pounds fail with just a 1,350 pound load? In light of the heat treatment photo, this clearly is a defective product and we have almost a dozen instances where the Dexter provided axles have failed. This is a life safety issue that OTT would be in the best position to pursue with their supplier. Not to mention, as I suggested above, OTT should be warning their customers of this known issue. Keep in mind that not all OTT owners read every thread. We all would feel terrible if one of our beloved trailers went off a cliff and took out a family due to this defect. MODERATORS: I am asking that you: Make OTT aware of this issue and the frequency for which it appears to have occurred. Strongly suggest that they provide all owners with a Safety Bulletin. And to specially ask owners that have had failed springs to notify them for documentation and further actions with their supplier. Once they have the facts from owners with defective axles, to formally advise Dexter of this issue. GJ

Larry: This really is significant. It appears that the heat treatment was not consistant across the cross section of the spring. This would set up the spring to have force concetrations and/or embrittlement fractures. I have been contemplating various ideas to stiffen up our OE2 suspension, and the higher rating for the spring rate with a small air bag may be a step in that right direction I think. Once you have a chance to install, if they work out as hoped, I am thinking that there will be a significant number of us that will want to replace ours. With commitment for a lot of sets, it becomes possible to negotiate a group purchase at discount. Paid in advance of the production run with an option to pick up at the factory or shipped to owners desires address with additional cost. I know more than a few of us could be in their fine city later this summer. Do they have a facility suitable for installation on our trailers? The would be helpful for those of us on the road. Your thoughts? GJ PS: I OFTEN take posts of significance and turn them into a condensed word document. Hope you don't mind, but my version is attached. I find it handy having an electronic copy for down the road, and having the info you posted is GOLDEN! Made in USA leaf springs (6 FEB 2024).docx

How about an individually adjustable pneumatic airbag type suspension for Ollie? No axles - lighter, smoother ride - less damage to OTT and components, no more broken leaf springs, more ground clearance by adjusting air pressure, enhanced braking, and "drum roll" please.... no more zerks! ...screenshot taken from an earlier thread on "Aussie Quality RVs": ....just say'n

Suggest starting a list of hull numbers, Month & Year MFG, trailer miles, and predominant use type (RV Parks, Boondocking, Off Road). GJ

Do all y'all use a buffer? I had a "detailer" tell me today that I shouldn't buff our trailer. But I went back over it with the Meguiar's Marine and hand rubbed it because I don't have a buffer. Even my meager hand rubbing job took a lot of the streaks off that he left behind as well as some scuff marks that he said he scrubbed and scrubbed. But I feel like buffing would really help "seal" the wax onto the surface. I'm not really strong enough to do that good of a job on it. I can't complain about his work too much because for the time he put in, I feel it was inexpensive and it set the stage for me to then go along behind him and get the REAL wax on and clean up the streaks that his spray on wax left behind. I just hate when I stand there and have to listen to stuff I'm being told that is flat out wrong. Sorry, that kind of turned into a rant, didn't it?

Depends. On a new trailer I don’t think there’s a need. On one that has some oxidation, maybe depending on how much. I have a couple of times, probably every 2 to 3 years for me. I’m considering the ceramic thing, those trailers look great. Mike