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Here’s a post on Facebook showing the new bathroom window, looks like a full tilt out awning window! https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1AfbuQxS34/?mibextid=wwXIfr

On 30 May 2025 at 9:15 AM I spoke with Tim at ALCON. He responded with shipping weights. So I asked him to actually weigh the naked springs we are using. Here is his verified statement: 4 Leaf 2,000 Pound Rated Spring with 19 1/2 pounds of USA made Steel 5 Leaf 2,700 Pound Rated Spring with 23 pounds of USA made Steel As I stated a couple of times above, the ALCON 4 leaf clearly has the Rating (2,000#), weight (19#+), and compliance (4-Leaf) to make it very well suited for use by most OTT owners. As such, it is my recommendation for likely +/- 85% of the fleet to use as replacements. If price point is of concern, then the Dexter PR4 springs fits the bill as well. Also as indicated in a few places in this mile long thread, if you are heavy and/or do a lot of boondocking with questionable roads/paths or hiking trails with your Ollie, you are part of the +/- 15% of the fleet and should consider the USA made Alcon 5 leaf spring. GJ

I've been traversing the southern section of Nebraska this week, following along the Platte River, and parts of the Oregon Trail / California Trail / Mormon Trail and it's .... very different from the Sandhills or the Badlands. I stayed at Pawnee SRA (State Rec Area); Windmill SRA; a freebie (if barren) spot in Bayard City (2 nights free with power and water, additional nights for a fee; one of the power poles wasn't working); and Riverside Campground in Scotts Bluff (which turns out to be part of a fairly large city park with a lot of amenities for locals). The landscape is dramatic. Pawnee SRA (the prettiest of my spots in NE); Buffalo Bill's Ranch NHS; Chimney Rock; Scotts Bluff National Monument

Your guesses make for a good starting point. I'd get up in the attic with a bunch of blue paper towels. Take the panels on both sides of the attic down - you don't have to remove them or disconnect any of the wires. Lay and/or tape the blue paper towels near/on the areas that you suspect (i.e. around the "Oliver" sign, around the hole into the main cabin, in the area of the rear view camera, as far as you can reach towards the a/c, etc.). Go outside and give this area a good soak with the garden hose. Go back inside to look for "dark" spots on the blue paper towels which will give you an indication as to where the leak is coming from. Good luck! Bill

According to the 2022 LE2 manual, the rear view camera is powered by f-2, a15A ATC fuse with a tan 14G wire. Mossey

Here are the silicone AT holders I use. I use a zip tie to hold them in place where I hide them. I also use adhesive backed type holders. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09468VZ5W?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_image

We just returned from 12 days RVing in Alaska, but not in our Oliver. It's a long way from CT to AK and with doctor appointments, etc. it really isn't possible for us to be away from home that long, so we flew out and rented a Class C motorhome. What a great decision! We had a blast and really liked the little Minnie Winnie RV. It was the perfect couples camper, only 24.5 feet long (just like our LE2) with a single slide and a very functional layout. And in great shape, too, being a 2025 model year. Just as easy to drive/park as our dually truck. We did Anchorage, the Kenai Peninsula, Talkeetna, and 3 nights in Denali. If you've never seen AK we'd recommend putting it on your bucket list for sure. FYI, the RV rental agency we used was Great Alaskan Holidays - www.greatalaskanholidays.com. Highly recommend them if you choose the fly/rent route.

With no response yet from OTT, I now suggest that you call Barker Mfg. They have been hyper responsive in the past. I know of no way to adjust the jack plate stop point (When it clicks on the clutch). It is a fixed point based on the assembly length. The stack up height of the jacks is a function of the jack length (Likely variable for different brands, and the OTT bracket thickness. My guess is that you somehow got the wrong length of the Barker Jack. Sending them your great pictures will be very informative. GJ PS: Since the jack leg length is easily confused, I also suspect that the root cause is the same as that for the Bulldog Coupler OOPs....Likely wrong part installed. There is a possibilty that the OE1 and OE2 have different jack leg lengths. Either way getting Barker into this dog tussle is a good idea.

I don’t think it will be full tilt out….only time will tell.

I decided to go with a smart 32” TV and didn’t really care about watching it on the battery. Best Buy had an Insignia 32” Fire TV for $89 & I like the brand. It was a pretty EZ mod to the existing mount. I needed to lower the bracket & add a 1/2” plywood shim. A quick trip to the hardware store for some 2” bolts. Fits like glove!

I always keeps ours connected. Truly dislike that movement, of craning my neck or leaning to get under things! Reaching in there at each dump station, no. Same reason I have 6” extensions on our water hoses, easy to reach. Bought a RhinoEXTREME from a suggestion here on another thread. Returned it immediately when found it would not compress like the RhinoFLEX we use instead. I mounted a 6” clear section for viewing and drain elbow at end. I sawed the elbow part flat so it fits easily into the Oliver bumper. Don’t use an end cap, so no vacuum effect when pulling or compressing the hose. Pull it out and place it in sewer opening, open then later close valves, lift the hose from bumper to end to drain 98% if the water leaving only a few OZs of water on the ground behind, and close the bumper. No fuss, just quick and simple..

Given the distance from your home to Alaska, that was an excellent idea. It appears you had a great time as you experienced some spectacular scenery! I made the trip once so far, from Texas to Alaska with The Wonder Egg. Besides the stunning vistas In Alaska, I vividly recall it was an exceedingly long drive to get up there. Haha . . . maps don't give us the right perspective of distances, due to distortion in their layout. Don't get me wrong, the long trip up was filled with memorable, serendipitous moments and memories were made, but covering the vast distance by air and renting a camper locally was a great idea for you to save time, wear and tear on your rig, and check another one off that bucket list. Well done!

OK - I'd lay those blue paper towels around the hole. This will tell you which direction to look for the water flow. That direction may (or may not) give you a better idea of where the water is coming from. Bill

No vent assembly kit installed. I don’t keep the hose connected because it’s a tight fit when the bumper gate is closed; the bend in the hose is subject to rubbing on the gate, which could eventually cause a hole or tear. I was using the provided cam lock plug to seal the discharge pipe, but had some seepage when removed once; I then tapped a fitting into it to attach the clear silicone tube for previously described purposes. The plug fitted with a threaded hose connection can be bought, but I choose to convert mine. Since the hose is collapsed when stowed, once connected to the discharge pipe the terminal valve has to be cracked to enable air intake to facilitate extension. Stowing is not a problem, since it is disconnected from the discharge pipe and given a final clean water rinse before collapsing.

Eurekaj, To use the camera switch for your TPMS Signal Booster, you will have to tap into the "switched" camera power circuit, not the fuse. Check out the modification titled "Turning on the rear camera automatically." It has instructions and pictures for tapping into the camera circuit inside the attic, which is easier than running a wire to the camera switch. It also shows how to connect directly to the Electronics fuse if you decide against the switch and just run a hot wire. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/10461-turning-on-the-rear-camera-automatically/ Cheers! Geoff

Not sure how applicable smart glass would be for an Oliver trailer but the function is awesome. In the camper below, all the windows and bathroom glass are smart glass which can change from clear to opaque with a push of a button providing instant privacy. No tracks to clean or window treatments to manage. https://www.smartglasstech.us/city/usa-smart-glass-technologies-landing/ Changed the video to one without music. It shows the smart glass function but the longer videos show it’s use better. Also, linked made in USA manufacturer site that explains more about the technology. Best, M

OTT owes you a replacement, but if you need to go without their help, with more pics from you I can help you create some kind of work-around. Best to you Dan!

Thanks for your input and idea @jd1923. My trailer is out at the storage lot so I can't make a quick check....but I'm not sure I'm following you. The unit sits too high, not too low so adding a plate or washers would raise it....or am I missing something? I believe I recall that the bracket is a steel "L" bracket with two vertical and two horizontal bolts. I don't think I can alter it vertically and still have the horizontal bolts allign. I know you're much better with mechanical/engineering than me so if I'm not understanding and there is a "fix" other than replacemnet maybe you could let me know just how I could do it ? In the meantime, I plan to call Oliver next week and discuss my issue live. I think it's fair for a new unit to be sent to me and I will take care of the swap-install....that's what I am asking for......

I did the same. One inside the hull and it works fine. Faraday worries are solely for Airstream owners and anybody else who desires to camp in an archaic tin can! 🤣 I get constant notifications as soon as we drive away. Drive away from home and tells me everything I have left. Must have an iPhone family. Bought the 4-pack, so I also have one hidden in the truck, and in our treasured GX470 and I purchased a key ring holder and this has found my keys, often misplaced! https://a.co/d/29lrREf

Our paths will cross, but at different times. Apple Maps not so good at visualizing the route but this list is what we have in mind, actual route TBD!

We felt the same with all the fuss getting things ready for our longer than usual trip, like your trip starting soon! Stayed 2 nights at our first stop and did absolutely nothing today! We needed this kind of lazy day just looking at the woods and doing little else.

We did our spring trip to the southeast central US this year without reservations more than 1 or 2 days in advance. Mix of Harvest Hosts, state, federal, and a few commercial campgrounds. Worked out fine.

We leave Sunday. We are very excited, and I am a little nervous.

Happy to report I was able to source a new gasket for the connection between the Shower drain and the ABS piping. It is called a "Coupling Washer 1-3/4" OD 1-3/8" ID" and can be purchased at a local hardware store for less than 2 bucks. Upon replacing the coupling washer and reinstalling the p trap with a little bit of pipe dope on the lower connection, I am happy to report it no longer leaks. BTW: I did have to remove the 3" Black Tank connection to provide me with enough room to get the p trap out and back. Also recommend you get a small strap wrench to loosen and tighten the drain p trap as it is really hard to reach and twist. In case anyone else find that they need the adaptor fitting that goes into the poly black tank, I was able to cross reference a partial part number and come up with the name as an ICON Technologies Limited Model # 12511 Holding Tank Fitting 3" Hub Fitting. It is available on Amazon for less than $10 or on camping world's website for around $5. Also note that Oliver service indicated that they have changed this drain design several times since 2017, so your setup might be much different and require other parts.

Rock Solid. Wish I had the same with disk brakes too! GJ

More steel means a spring is likely to be able to handle stress longer for a given design. The weight of the spring design can be found in it's specifications. Under no circumstances would I replace my springs with a lightweight version. (Edit: under 16 pounds) Where made is a different discussion entirely.

How is October 21 - 25 “over Halloween”? And besides, they announced at the Rally this year this year that the rally would be moving to the fall next year. Personally, I think it’s a great idea, by late October the weather should be moderating and there’ll be almost zero chance of a tornado.

A year out is the park policy on reservations for both Alabama residents and out of state folks too. Just a reminder you will have to pay in full for the dates you reserve. The park used to take just a deposit for one day to reserve your site for the rally. Not anymore, now you pay for all the days you have reserved up front.

Glad you got what you wanted. Lew and his team are Great. the springs you bought are just like the top one in the attached pic, minus the bottom most (short) leaf, correct? Please keep us advised as you put more miles on the new suspension

I placed ours inside the inside or interior of the hull and it works fine. The idea is to allow it to be placed where another cell phone will pick up the signal the AT is sending. The inside AC might be good as long as the adhesive on the AT holder does not fail and you loose it. I have one hidden in my Honda generator, TV, car, as well.

Your report sounds familiar re an issue or two we've had. No more service tickets for me. I figure OTT owes me nothing on our 10-year-old hull. When 2 frame crossmembers dropped from bad welds, I got a local welder to repair it. OTT is too far from us for service needs anyway. In 3 days it was done. It doesn't take a month sitting on an engineer's desk to simply ship out 1-2 new jacks! 🤣 Dan, given everything is solid, the weld is good however misaligned, could you reinstall it adding a plate and/or washers underneath, space the jack to sit lower? That's what I would do if it's possible and be up and running the same day. You may have to purchase spacers and bolts an 1" longer to make this idea work. Or escalate with OTT management because all they have to do is admit their mistake, their manufacturing defect, and ship you two news jacks immediately!

Please note that the dates were changed. When scheduling the dates for the rally, the Lodge did not check with the campground to verify availability. The original dates were already booked at the campground due to a yearly Halloween event. Oliver Rally Date: October 21 - 25, 2026

Interesting, though I don't think I could ever get used to the looks of it...

I was going to ask the same thing. I’m pretty comfortable with a 4 leaf full length spring made with US steel and a 2000 lb rating.

I heard the same, and an 8” tilt out would be reduced air flow vs existing the windows with cross ventilation. I really don’t have a dog in the fight and have not had any issues with my current windows which provide great cross ventilation. Just regular maintenance in keeping the tracks and weep holes clean and all is good. It will be interesting to see what supplier of tilt out windows the Oliver engineers roll with.

The only important detail missing is exactly which model/manufacturer tilt out window Oliver will choose as a supplier. 🤔 The window you show appears to be a basic lexan non double pane style? My understanding is the new windows will be insulated, tinted glass, and double pane and hopefully up fitted with no see um screens. Then what sort of privacy shade will the new windows have? Lots of details to be worked out for sure. So for now it’s pretty much a wait and see. Hopefully for future owners they will fully tilt out.

Where's Ollie? She's hitched up and rearing to go! She's usually behind our Tuff Shed getting some shade, but I backed her in further so the Ram can get some shade as I work on a last few details. Mostly all packed, brakes adjusted and tires set, new Bulldog and Anderson parts. Hitched and did a test drive yesterday. Not a big deal for many of you, but we're leaving Thursday for a 5+ week trip, back home on the 4th of July! Our longest trip ever by far. Off to Minnesota to see Chris' sister. We'll take 10-12 days to get there and we'll have 3 weeks for a long return, camping in the northern Minnesota woods, boondocking on the Badlands with a Mt Rushmore night visit. Then we'll make our way across the Western Slope of Colorado. Cool thing about this trip is we have not made a single reservation! We'll find our routes and camps along the way. We have all we need to be off-grid for days! Signed up for Harvest Hosts which may help in the farm country and we'll see... 🤣

It was confirmed on the tour today that 2026 model Olivers will have awning style windows. Full details still being worked out and 2026 model details should available in the coming weeks.

This is an excellent article for newby’s. It has taken me nearly seven decades of working with my hands and buying every tool listed to discover all the tricks mentioned in it. If I could have read it when I was ten I could have avoided a bunch of trial and error (and a good amount of failure) through the years.

Jason, I’m not sure about the Overland brand, but there are brands available with integrated day/night shade screens. Yes I have seen people complain about scratching, but you can polish them out. https://youtu.be/N1vh-ETtRgE?si=-CqN8-Kbm2MV50VI Here’s a good video from The Fit RV on why you want dual pane acrylic windows in your RV.

The windows you pictured are very nice double pane acrylic Overlands. I have them in my Black Series. The only downside is that they don’t come with integrated screens and they are very expensive. I also worry about scratching them. As far as I know, they dont make these in double pane glass. The frameless are nice but only single pane.

I'm just going to purchase the whole shebang. I would like to stay married🤣

Do all you can to take care of your existing windows much as possible. A friend just had Oliver replace one on his LE2 that a neighbors lawnmower shot a rock at. He was all in for $1000 including labor at Oliver😳. Oliver had to special order his replacement. And of course the neighbor denied any liability that his mower did the damage. When we roll in to a CG and if they are mowing we usually wait until they finish and the area is clear of weed eaters and mowers before set up. We have even nicely asked some CG’s to not mow or weed eat around our site until we depart. Surprisingly most owners are pretty cool and understand. Sounds like overkill I know…but beats the alternative of a big ding in the Oliver gelcoat or worse yet replacing a window.

I agree, but if they are going out of business, they simply don't owe us anything.

Sadly, this is typical when it comes to parts made by a third party. Even parts made an RV manufacturer like Oliver can be be discontinued for various reasons. The best we can do, once our trailers are beyond the warranty period, is to "make it work". This means we have to find parts from non-mainstream sources and even make them ourselves. Obviously, this is not ideal, but it is realistic.

MEOW!

Yeah, for the moderators, trying to keep these threads on topic must be like herding cats. 😆

Yes, but, one question so often morphs into another, doesn't it? 😄

If one reads this entire thread, it appears that at least to some degree there is discussion about "apples" and "oranges". The original poster was asking about a storage situation specifically with a small solar panel. A small solar panel should still have its own controller but in the event something would happen to that controller the Oliver batteries would not be damaged (at least in the short run) due to over-charging. In addition, since these panels are small they are also relatively inexpensive. Thus, if stolen, the amount of money at risk is reasonable. A suggestion was then made that instead of purchasing a small panel a larger one would be better in that it could also be used in situations other than simple storage. This is true except that since the larger the panel, the greater financial risk for the possibility of theft and the greater risk of battery damage in the event the controller fails. No matter how big or how small these external solar panels are, the electrical connections should be basically approached in the same manner - proper polarity (positive to positive and negative to negative), proper voltage (panel voltage output and appropriate wire sizes/length) and proper control (via a solar controller and/or size of panel) of what and how much electricity is being sent to the batteries should all be considered. Bill

Tallmandan - I use the CalMark cover with a 25 watt solar panel. See THIS thread for a bit of info in this regard. Yes you can use clips directly to the battery and as long as the wires from the panels are relatively small you can close and lock the battery compartment. However, what I did was to wire up the solar panel to a 7 pin plug and I simply plug that into the 7 pin pig-tail coming off the Oliver - just like you would plug it into your tow vehicle. Bill