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The only person I every knew was my sister when she was young, but today I think she doesn't have them anymore. trainman

Here's my two cents...I've owned 4 diesel P/u over the years. All have been good trucks. Currently, have a Ford F-350 diesel. My last was a 2005 duramax with over 300,000 miles. I've hauled hvy farm equiupment with them in the past. However, will only be hauling a jet boat and an Oliver now. I wouldn't be without a 4X4 P/u and if your just hauling an Oliver a diesel might be over kill. However, I enjoy pulling my boat out of steep and rough ramps with my current diesel TV. I tow the boat to various lakes in my area that have grades, you can't beat the breaking with a diesel. Mine has a 10 speed transmission and turns under 1500rpm at 55. Mileage is fine if you can keep it under 60mph. And, a 47 gal. fuel tank makes finding a pump, not an issue. With that said, most would do fine with a 4X4 2500 gas, IMH0. Get what suits your needs.

There is NO substitute for having the proper tools to do the job. Get the 4WD, even though you "plan" to stay on pavement. You'll thank us someday.

I wanted my 2019 Ram 1500 crew cab to have the 4x4 option which I did purchase. There are very few things that you get with it over the standard 2 wheel drive option, one was the truck did set an inch or so higher and probably some other upgraded options in the suspension, etc. One of my biggest things was the resale value of a 4x4 over the 2 wheel drive models which makes them more in demand in the used market. Talking with others that have the 2 wheel models of the same pickup model the fuel mileage is pretty much the same which for me was something I didn't feel was a deal breaker. trainman

This is impressive……. https://pressroom.toyota.com/standing-tall-all-new-2023-sequoia-full-size-suv-is-ready-to-make-its-mark/, There are still a few things I don't care for, and they haven’t published the payload specs, but if my LC 200 died, I would look very hard at a Sequoia TRD Pro. Remove the heavy third row seats and put drawers underneath the adjustable platform: Add the taller springs from a Tundra TRD Pro. Go have fun….. It should be a great match for the big Ollie. John Davies Spokane WA

I have the 4 x 12volt wet cell option. I’ve been very happy with them. We typically stay at full hookup campgrounds for our long stays, so the batteries only get used for our quick overnight Harvest Host stops on our way to our destinations. No solar or inverter, just using the batteries for lights, water pump, and exhaust fans when stopped at a HH with no hookups. And my battery tray slides out far enough to get the caps off the batteries to check water level. They’ve only needed very minor top off of water on a few cells over the last 3 years.

Here's something to consider when changing from lead or AGM batteries to Battleborn lithium batteries. When more than one battery is connected, the efficiency of the battery management systems require them to be hooked up like in this picture. Charlie.

The little springs that trigger the lights on/off are problematic and can be causing current loss. When they work, they are nice, but even Service isn’t a fan of them. I have two spares. 😉

Thanks for the info! Its reassuring to hear this from someone who has experienced this. This forum is such a great tool! Thanks again!

Short answer: Even 390 Ah of LiFePO4 battery capacity, recharged with 340 watts of solar power, should be far more than adequate for two CPAP machines, even with humidifiers, IF you don't burn up your battery capacity with other use, like running the air conditioner or the microwave for extended periods. But, I recommend you consider investing in 12-volt CPAP machines, to limit inversion power loss. We take delivery on our Elite II in September. We plan to purchase the Lithium Pro Package. But, I have been using a 12-volt CPAP on extended wilderness river trips for the past 20 years. I, too, am dependent on it for a decent night's sleep. 20 years ago I installed an 11-watt solar panel on top of a Pelican 1600 (waterproof) case and connected it to a small PWM charge controller and, in turn, a 34Ah AGM battery inside the case. Carried on my raft, the solar panel provides some recharge during the day. I have used 3 different travel CPAP machines over those 20 years. They draw from .9 amps to 1.1 amps per hour of use. With an average of 8 hours' use, my 3 machines have drawn down between 7.2 and 8.8 Ah per night. I monitor the voltage level daily with a voltmeter. Although the 11-watt panel has never been sufficient to restore all of the power drawn on any night during the following day, even if fully sunny, it extends the available battery life with a 34Ah battery from about 3 to 5 nights. On 21-day Grand Canyon trips, I used a second 34 Ah AGM battery connected to a second, 20-watt solar panel, so I could get 2 days' charge for every night of use. With a total of 68 Ah of battery capacity recharged by 31 watts of solar panel space daily, I never ran out of battery capacity. 2 years ago, I switched to (4) 10Ah Dakota Lithium LiFePO4 batteries, which are less than 1/2 the weight of a 34Ah AGM. On river trips, that means I am lugging much less weight from my boat to my tent each night. That 40Ah of capacity, with some daily recharge via the 11W solar panel, has provided sufficient power for my CPAP (with no humidifier) on 5-night extended river trips. Given that 68Ah of AGM battery, recharged by 31 watts of solar panel capacity on my Grand Canyon trips, was sufficient to keep my CPAP machine powered for 21 days (and likely longer), I am satisfied that the 390 Ah of LiFePO4 battery capacity included with Oliver's Lithium Pro Package, when recharged daily with 340 watts of solar panel capacity, will provide many times the amps needed to run my CPAP machine over night. I believe the Lithium Pro Package will also enable significant other power use, even with extended boondocking. MarkC, with 630Ah in the Lithium Platinum Package, I expect you could even operate 2 machines, with humidifiers, on 120VAC through the inverter and still be fine. But, it makes sense to me to check out 12-volt CPAP machines, if you don't already have them, so you can plug directly into the built-in 12-volt outlets.

As an OTR driver, I learned the mantra, "Didn't hit anything, nobody died. Good day!" Enjoy your travels

John - Years prior to owning an Oliver I started carrying small compact air compressors in all my vehicles. For the most part, these have been cheap, relatively small compressors that are really only good enough to top off the air pressure in my tires. None of them have ever been of a size or quality such that they could be used for winterizing the Oliver. Besides, I have two shop air compressors at the house that I could use if I wanted to winterize in that manner - which I don't as I use the anti-freeze method which I believe to be just about as easy and more reliable. On a related note - using an air compressor for purposes of blowing dirt/dust out of areas near and around propane igniters can present problems if you blow that air into things like the propane burner jets. It is safer and easier to simply carry a small can of compressed air (you can get them at the Dollar Store for $1.25 😁). If you are still interested in a Viair, you might want to contact the people at technorv.com and/or take a look at as many YouTube videos about Viair as you can. Bill

If it is wired correctly the system will "see" any external panels.

I use my 4X4 multiple to get to most of our camping and almost all of our Hang Gliding and Paragliding launch sites. I would not even consider a 2X4 for an Ollie Hauler out west or anywhere there was snow/ice conditions.

This guide may help. You also said: Install Zamp solar port in battery compartment door and to battery bank (some say to the busses, whatever they are) Below is a picture of a busbar. It is used to allow multiple connections on either the positive or negative side of the battery bank, just like your fuse box at home. The difference is that in the fuse box each wire or circuit is attached to a breaker and the breaker connects to the busbar. When your rv tech installed the BMV-712, it included a shunt that is connected to the negative side of the battery bank. The shunt has 2 posts with one post connected to the battery negative post and that should be the only wire or cable connected to the negative side of the battery bank. All other negative wires should connect to the other post on the shunt. There usually isn’t enough room on that post for all of the wires to connect to, so a busbar is added to increase the connection points. The BMV display is connected between the 2 shunt posts and measures the amount of energy going into or out of the battery bank. Mossey

There are cons for 4x4. Reduced gas mileage. More parts to fail. I haven't used 4x4 very often while towing. We don't tow in the snow and we're not (currently) frequent boondockers, so we could probably live without it. However, the few times I used it, I was glad to have it. Most often, it has simply been wet grass in our back yard, where the trailer is stored. A few times, we wouldn't have gotten the trailer back into the yard without 4x4. Needed it once or twice on wet grass in a campground, too. If your trailering is going to be limited strictly to snow-free paved roads, commercial campgrounds, and driveways you might not need it. I would be uncomfortable without it.

“Of all places, in the camp area of the Abenteuer Allrad fair, which is more or less the European equivalent of the Overland Expo. It had been raining a lot, and we needed to turn the truck around. I backed the rear wheels onto a wet, muddy piece of grass, and that was that. The front wheels were still on the pavement. The ground was as even as can be, but the truck would not move. There were plenty of four-wheel drive vehicles at the camp area to pull us out, but it was a bit embarrassing.” – Joerg Walzenbach, 2008 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD, two-wheel drive truck, 2011 Outfitter Apex 8 LB https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/question-of-the-week/four-wheel-drive-while-truck-camping-part-1/ https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/question-of-the-week/the-four-wheel-drive-low-down-part-2/ That is a whole lot of feedback. Mostly positive. One guy said he brought home his new Ford pickup and was disappointed to find out when he got there that it was NOT 4WD. I think most folks would check that before signing. 😳 John Davies Spokane WA

There are times when 4wd will save your @ss, pardon my language, the alternative being getting a tow. Would you rather engage 4 Low and drive out, or have your day ruined by having to wait for a recovery? (Assuming you even have a cell signal to call for help.) And obviously, if you get caught in inclement weather, it means being able to drive over a mountain pass without having to chain up. John Davies Spokane WA

The only photo that might help in the least would be that of my Battle Born batteries (see mention of their installation below). Here are the components that I had my RV tech install: 1. 4 BBGC2 Battle Born batteries, 100Ah GC2 2. 1 BAM030712000 Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor 3. 1 PD4045LICSV Progressive Dynamics Replacements 4000 Series 45 Amp Lithium (converter/charger) 4. 1 Micro-Air EasyStart™ 364 Soft Starter with install kit (inside of the Dometic air conditioner) After this installation, I discovered that—since my AC was wired to function only when connected to shore power—the AC would not run off of the new batteries. With the Battle Born lithiums, I’m hoping to eventually be able to run an AC without shore power, and with great advice from a few smart folks on the forum (check out discussions of the Houghton by RecPro), I think that I have come up with a way to do just that. It involves switching out my Dometic AC for a Houghton, which is much quieter and uses less power. I have purchased the following components which my RV tech has agreed to install in early February: From RecPro (9.5K AC): https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-low-profile-9-5k-quiet-ac-with-remote-control-non-ducted/ From Amazon (Transfer Switch): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IKVHA9K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 From Amazon (Heat-Only Thermostat): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00204WWGE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 Here is part of the instructions I will be giving to my tech: 1. Install Houghton using best foam for noise reduction. 2. Reinstall soft start from Dometic to Houghton. 3. Install Zamp solar port in battery compartment door and to battery bank (some say to the busses, whatever they are) 4. Install transfer switch to allow AC to run off of inverter. 5. Wire system so new thermostat controls furnace. 6. Test to make sure batteries and inverter can now run AC I have also recently purchased a 180-watt portable solar system from Zamp. I wanted this because now that I have a larger battery bank, I want to be able to fill it more quickly. I'm testing it now (connected to the battery bank with alligator clips) while I type. Note: My tech called me—when trying to replace the 4 6-volt AGM batteries with the 4 Battle Born lithiums—to tell me that the Battle Borns would not fit in the battery compartment. After some consultation with the Battle Born (Dragonfly Energy) representative, he got them to fit by placing them on their ends. Thus far, all seems to be working, with the exception of the Victron monitor which has been giving me some quirky readings that I am still attempting to understand. I hope this helps. I will try to post a report on the forum after my tech has completed the work. P.S. Since our hull is #222, I like it that yours is #333.

Most half ton trucks should have the Andersen Hitch. We have it on our 5.7 litter gas Tundra.

I bet every owner has had this happen, one time, and then you learn and it probably won’t reoccur... For me it was in the middle of the night in my socks, I discovered the isolation “travel” valve was still closed when I ran water in the bath sink and it backed up out of the floor drain and soaked my feet. Many bad words!!! Get a black Sharpie and write “Push in for travel” right beside the handle. John Davies Spokane WA

Just because your tank monitor read zero doesn't actually mean that the tanks were empty - as strange as that may sound. Depending on how level your Ollie was when dumping there can still be a few gallons of liquid in the tank even though the monitor reads zero. When looking to REALLY make sure I'm as empty as possible I really raise the front and curb side of my Ollie. Or, what AndrewK said. Bill

Hi Donna and Scott, unless you have made some modifications to your heating capabilities in the basement (specifically, getting some ducted heat to the areas at risk of freezing) and are willing to run your furnace while driving (at least while driving in below freezing temps), I'd suggest just winterizing your water lines with antifreeze. I did a little bit of successful towing in freezing temps this winter with water in the lines and my heat running, but nothing below 25F, so I really can't say for certain what the limits are even for my modified trailer. I also have a self-regulating heat strip on the city and fresh water check valves as many owners find those valves are prone to freezing and cracking and getting ducted warm air to those valves is not easy. Btw, I don't consider myself an expert in this area yet as I don't have any experience towing / camping in extreme cold - what I did have was lots of posts about what other owners have done to help get it ready for a 5th season - and I made modifications based on those posts. So far so good. Let us know if / what you try and your results - I know there are several owners who ski and are very interested in camping/skiing with an Ollie - including me! Best, John