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The Oliver Porch Lights are bright for a dark campsite, so we rarely use them. But if you need to light up the area they work great. I've often wondered, why isn't there lighting on the front and rear of the Oliver? I asked a year ago about replacement lights for our OEM Porch Lights and just purchased some recently. OTT should install these lights in all four directions. I would have done one up front too, but running wire would be difficult. I got something else for up front, more on that later. https://itcshopnow.com/products/assurance-exterior-flood-light?variant=50392962007319 I carefully measured the four Porch Lights OTT installed, as the distance from hull belly line, which btw holds a tape measure nicely, up to centerline of the Porch Light at the mounting screws. Turns out they were all installed at different heights +/- 3/4". As a special bonus, this light is 1/4" off from front to the rear mounting screws. My new Rear Porch Light, I promise is the straightest of the bunch! 🤣 It's not easy to choose the best spot to drill into the exterior of your hull, this one especially. I cut away some of the white insulation in the back of the attic. I used a 2-ft piece of metal fish-tape with the ends curled back, running it down the inside of the back exterior hull. Repeatedly, it measured 12" form the bottom of the OLIVER taillight to where the fish-tape hit the top of the rear window frame. It measured 12" so I figured I should go 10" max. Looking from the outside, there is a flat fiberglass frame around the rear window. Above that, the top rear is convex. I had to find the best spot so that the approx. 8" x 1 1/2" light would sit flat in both directions. If not water would get behind it. I drilled a 1/4" hole centered to the window, so the light is just above the flat frame area of the rear window. I soldered and heat shrink extra length of wire to the light. If they only attached 18" of wire! Offset the splices so that they would fit nicely into the drilled hole. It wasn't an easy pull but a few ins and outs and the light pulled flush (would be easier with 2 people, one in one out). I eyeballed the light level to the window frame. I wanted to VHB the light housing vs. drilling two mounting holes but the design of the light would not allow for it. They do not include hardware. Found the stoutest 1" course thread screws that would fit the openings and I drilled 6/94" holes after marking the centers. Wiring? I wanted to add the new rear light to the Side Porch Lights (streetside). However, I could not find the switch leg in the back corner of the attic and I did not want to remove all the stuff out of the kitchen cabinets. But that would be the right way to do it. Cabinets empty, you can easily run wiring up to the main switch panel. Our hull had a rear camera and a separate switch to power it. I removed the camera a year ago, so I'm using this separate switch with existing wiring. I copied something Geoff did, where he used a Sharpie to black out the word "Awning." Mine has a thin cut piece of black tape over the word "Camera" so it just reads "Rear" now! 🤣 I had to wait patiently for dusk and dark tonight! The hull looks great with the new Rear Porch Light to compliment the side lights. And finally, it alone lights up the yard! 😎

6 or 7 consecutive for Wyoming. This will be number 21 for consecutive years in either Wyoming, Montana, Idaho or Colorado. Ya just don't know where the "stupid" fish are located! 😉 Bill

USFS Campground Columbine Creek , near Questa New Mexico and Red River. Bighorn sheep hangout along the highway nearby, cool visitor center in Questa New Mexico. Hiking trails in the campground to the Honda Wilderness Restored Catholic Church in Questa where is everyone else 🧐

My 2023 has the same outlet, and I think Tom is correct in that it is for AC power to the fridge. I used that outlet with a 12 ga extension cord to supply power to my exterior AC outlet under the folding table. I tapped into the fridge's 12V DC power for the cigarette outlet.

This morning while doing a full systems ‘go’ inspection on Hull #634 XPLOR, I discovered when I configured the Truma water heater valve to the ON position, an impressive stream of water shot directly out of the Truma filter exterior housing. After a little troubleshooting, I removed the filter and discovered that inside the filter housing, a small black round piece of plastic had blown out of the filter housing. This rendered the filter useless. We have had 5.5 years of trouble-free service from our tankless Truma and this was a first. We like our Aqua Go. I am posting this in the event anyone should have the same issue with their Truma filter. I have the optional antifreeze filter which works in a pinch as a back up. If you do not have the optional antifreeze filter as a back up, you will be stuck like Chuck with no hot water. In order for the Aqua Go to work, it has to have the filter element. I contacted Oliver Service and ordered a OEM replacement and an extra back filter up of the exact one you see in the below pics. “Two is one and one is none.” 🫡🇺🇸 Replacement filters are $95.00 plus shipping. Thank you Mike Sharpe for getting my new filters shipped out. The tiny piece of plastic that broke loose. Here is the filter that failed. You should not be able to look through your filter. The arrow points to where this tiny piece blew out. There is no way to repair it. I pass this on, so that if you have this issue you can just replace the filter with a new one.

Got this working yesterday, using the screws supplied with the light on top and hardware I had in the shop to attach the bottoms. It looked hodgepodge today. I really should fab a proper bracket, but for now I just wanted to fix its appearance. Went to the local HW store and got four short 4mm countersink screws and two Nylok nuts and washers. I had to countersink the brackets further to get the screws flush. The assembly is much better, but now that the light is taller, I noticed two things. The base bracket looks cheap now that you can fully see it. And the height is right at the belly line where the hulls meet, so visually it's not good. It looked better shorter, but now the light is where you need it. If I was to do this again, first I would use the great idea @Steph and Dud B made above; to grab power and use the light switch on the jack. Second I would fab a proper bracket a bit shorter than this one and push it forward a couple inches to get the required angle. Then it's not up against the hull belly line and will look better. It's too late for me re the first idea, but I'll do the latter when I source the right stainless steel stock. Looks like one of those Star Wars robots! It's all the light we'll need to hitch-up and load or unload the truck in the dark when necessary. We now have proper exterior lighting on all four sides! 😎

Please read my detailed report that I sent in on this topic attached....I've had truma's replace 3 times. First potential cause - Truma didn't properly tighten the brass fittings internally that feed the burner assembly. Second potential cause - Truma didn't crimp the burner tube assembly correctly, and with travel they rattle out (the burner tubes are like in a bar-b-q and can fall off which causes raw gas to be injected into the burner area for explosive ignition instead of gentle start.) This blog post has 3 goals and was SENT to NHTSA for evidence of why Truma needs to do something to fix their defective mfg process. 1) List symptoms we experienced with our Truma and use photos to illustrate the 3 firebox events. 2) Describe 2 different Truma reported manufacturing defects and show photos illustrating those issues. 3) Describe the in field solutions for each of the 2 manufacturing issues. 4) Show a pictures of the current Truma Burner Unit with all Manufacturing updates in place. The attached PDF is in full detail with picture of what is likely the issue or issues causing explosive ignition. Truma Issues.pdf Hope that helps...remember...you need to report this to both Oliver and Truma in order to get any warranty coverage. Craig Short

I took a trip to Oliver on Tuesday with a prospective buyer. While we were looking at the 2027 model the salesman started the Dometic Freshjet, It was almost as quiet as the Truma AC in my Elite ll. We could easily converse with it running.

It had lost prime. I connected city water to boondock connection. Turned on water for 20 seconds or so. Connected my boondock hose to boondock port. Turned on pump. Sucked up a gallon of water lickety split.

Eagle Nest State Park , New Mexico park has been remodeled and is very nice, sites are electric only water fill available, no dump station cloudy and rainy and cold weather has us a little wet super nice Vietnam War Memorial Park nearby Remembering all of the men that served and the young men that never came home 🙏

Oliver's response has been outstanding. We are working together to address the issue. More to follow when I have a chance to provide a detailed update. Bob

I apologize for not posting a resolution sooner. I changed the inverter circuit breaker for new. Hard to find. Home Depot website only. Charging issue resolved. My theory is a washboard road in and out of 11 Mile Reservoir State Park CO. Who knows?! Thank you for all your knowledge. Mark

Getting ready to leave at near the end of the month (June) for the rest of the summer. Got to get all of those "honey do's" done first!🥰

TECHNICAL SUPPORT TEAM answered my question -- I will leave it here, for others who might be asking the same. When you plan to decalcify the Truma AquaGo Water Heater AND Sanitize the plumbing system, there is a specific order that this should be done. It's logical, but I wasn't sure about any potential chemical reactions between the one (Truma Decalcification Tablets) and the other (a diluted water & bleach solution). FIRST -- complete the Decalcification process. Then flush the system with clean water. SECOND -- Sanitize the system. REMEMBER to put the system into BYPASS CONFIGURATION for the Water Heater during the Sanitization process. After Sanitization, flush the system TWICE with clean water. THIRD -- Fill the tank with fresh water Shout-out to Chris with Oliver's Technical Department for helping me out with this question this morning.

Assuming the valve set up is correct, and the pump screen is not plugged, them many have found that the boondock hose seal was worn or the boondock hose fitting was not FULLY and FIRMLY tightened. As a result, that connection sucks air and little or no water moves on board. Suggest double checking that connection and raising the boondock container as high as you can so reduce the hydrostatic head to the pump. This will assist in getting the pump to self prime. Ours takes about a minute a gallon to boondock onboard. Hope this helps GJ

I wonder what the "deck/wall" starts to look like after years of people walking on it. Can you screen that wall area at all when that is down? If not, I don't see myself keeping my wall open while camping.

With the inside work complete I went back to the roof area, trimmed the oozed butyl, wiped with isopropyl alcohol again, and taped the area to be caulked off leaving about a quarter inch gap from the edge of the flange in the front and rear and about an 1/8 inch gap on the sides where the caulk would be the shortest. I applied the caulk 3 times, wiping it off the first two times, reapplying the tape and recaulking each time because I didn’t like the way it looked. I finally left it alone because I decided that if I kept messing with it I would keep screwing it up and I was starting to get hungry and it was close to supper time. This picture shows the fan after the oozed butyl was trimmed back. It shows the built-up butyl in front of and behind the fan to keep the flange straight. This next picture is after the ASI 335 was applied. Notice that the black seal is straight, not bowed down at the front and rear due to having the flange pulled down to touch the roof. The black seal must remain straight so that the cover will seal properly when closed. I applied the ASI 335 to the screws but didn’t like the way they looked so I wiped it off. I had applied ASI 335 to the screw holes and the screws were twisted in through up to 3 layers of butyl so I figured they were sealed well enough. The caulk job wasn’t perfect but it looks good from the ground. The ripples are from my hand shaking after going through the process 3 times before finally accepting that it wasn’t going to be perfect. I actually like the stepped edge of the caulk versus a feathered edge because I think the feathered edge of caulk doesn’t hold up well after repeated washing, drying, and waxing. We’ve pulled the trailer through wind and rain for 1350 miles and it has remained closed and hasn’t leaked. I can’t completely say that it is quieter than the original Ventline fan but it does not have the rattle that it did. ASI 0240 https://meridianadhesives.com/products/asi-0240/ ASI 335 https://meridianadhesives.com/products/?product_search=335 It looks like ASI has two versions of the 335. The stuff I used looked like this Good luck on your installation. Bill

Picture below shows old Ventline fan removed and the roof area cleaned up. I used ASI 0240 adhesive remover and plastic scrapers. I cleaned up the edges of the original holes with a chamfer bit in a drill motor. The factory didn’t align the old vent with the hole very well and didn’t drill and chamfer the holes which resulted in chipped gelcoat. In this picture the pilot holes (1/16”) for MaxxFan Dome are located and drilled. I wanted the screws to be perpendicular to the MaxxFan mounting flange not the roof line so I tried to drill them at the correct angle to the surface of the roof. I did a lot of test fitting inside and out. The outside fan, the middle sleeve, and the interior trim ring must fit together well for this retrofit to work out right. I used a carpenter’s pencil and 2 rubber bands from of a bunch of broccoli to hold the sleeve in place while I got the pieces located just right. I did this before I marked the holes for the flange. New pilot holes are enlarged to 1/8 inch and chamfered Test fit the screws to make sure they are not too tight. If they are too tight you risk twisting the screw in two in the hole. If the test fit is too tight go up to 9/64 inch bit. I used a 1/16 inch drill for a pilot then enlarged with a 1/8 inch drill and finished with a 1/2 inch chamfer bit. Be sure to use sharp bits and drill SLOW. I wanted the flange to be straight, not pulled down to fit the curved roof. I applied one layer of butyl all the way around the bottom of the flange. I then applied 2 short strips between about 10:00-2:00 and 4:00- 8:00. I again applied 2 even shorter strips between 10:30-1:30 and 4:30-7:30. I tried to build the butyl up in the places where the widest gaps would occur, that is the front and back of the fan. I wiped the mounting location with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry and filled the old and new screw holes with ASI 335 and set the fan in place using a couple of screws inserted through the flange and butyl for alignment. The black button on the handle goes toward the front of the trailer. Work the wires and splice connectors into the space between the hulls while inserting the fan assembly into the hole in the roof. Tighten each screw down a little at a time and try to keep from distorting the flange. I would tighten the screws and leave them for a while to let the butyl push out then I would tighten them a little more until I got the flange sitting like I wanted it to sit and then left the butyl to do what it wanted to for a while. While the butyl was oozing I went inside the trailer and placed the sleeve back in the hole and made sure the upper edge was against the bottom of the fan and the notch in the sleeve for the wire retainer was in place and using a pencil I marked a line around the sleeve where it exits the curved ceiling. I drew another line 0.35” below this line to account for the interior trim ring and cut the sleeve to this line using a pair of heavy shears and a razor knife and finished to fit with a sanding block. I attached the trim ring and tightened the screws enough to pull the ring up to conform to the curvature of the ceiling.

Finally got around to fixing the problems that I identified in my original post almost 2 years ago. I used a small drum sander on a cordless drill motor to make a cutout for the part of the accumulator that was rubbing. This also quieted a vibration heard during pump operation While I had the drum sander out I enlarged the cutouts above both rear jack manual operation studs so that I can now get the manual crank on them if needed I placed a couple of spare bolt protectors on some 1/2 inch nuts and threaded them on the exposed bolt ends where they contacted the heater duct I know that these are really simple fixes but they might help someone that doesn’t know that the problems even exist. Bill

San Isabel National Forest , Cascade Campground near Buena Vista Colorado Gonna hit the nearby hiking trails, Ghost Town of Saint Elmo, Hot Springs Got the hang of the Ford 10 speed on mountain passes tow haul mode only , select M , 2nd gear off the top

It’s just a normal roller shade, nothing unique to Oliver, so doing a general web search on roller shades might help. Mine are working fine but I think (remembering to when I’ve used them before) if it’s kinda stuck just pull down to the bottom of the window to reset the mechanism. Regarding “the others retract to at least 3/4 of the way up” - I think you mean they leave 1/4 hanging when fully retracted? That’s not right, all of mine only leave an inch or two of the shade hanging. Anyhow so far been trouble free for me. The design has been around forever, seems like an early 20th century invention, anyhow should be easy to work with. No, interesting it has an even longer history

Thanks for all the replies. Sorry I haven’t updated sooner. We have been boondocking for several days. I have been in communication with support at Oliver. At first they didn’t understand why it wasn’t working. As they investigated they reported that it appears that the stovetop does pull 1800 w and overloads the 2000 w inverter. The only other major draw is the refrigerator. Even when I turn that off, the stovetop does not come on. I stopped at a Bass Pro the first day to pick up a small 2 burner propane stove so we could at least have coffee in the morning. Not what I was planning when camping. If I had known I would have asked for the propane stove instead of the induction stove. We have the Platinum pkg and I did ask sales at the dealer if people liked the induction stove and if I could use it boondocking. Answer was that it works. I noticed that the induction cooktop comes standard on the Legacy 2026. This isn’t working for us as designed. I have asked for this to be resolved…proper inverter set up or a propane stove retro fit. If you do much camping at Harvest Hosts, BLM, National Forrest, National Parks, etc. w/o hookups, it is a problem unless you run a generator. When we return from our travels we will see where Oliver lands on this. They are considering possible “upgrades” to our camper. I wouldn't see a resolution as upgrades, but will find out. When hooked up to shore power, the cooktop works great. But so far for us, most of our trip, was making coffee or cooking outside on a portable propane stove.

I carry a backup pump and have had to use it to fill through the normal fill port (not the rear suction port.) If you ever want to build a backup pump system...here's our article on that topic. Backup Water Pump Hope some of the comments like the one above about checking for air leaks have helped. Let us know your outcome.

Alternatively, I bought three solar motion lights for camp security and general outdoor lighting. Once camp is setup, they are staged forward facing on the propane tank housing, rearward facing on the spare tire cover, and usually on a picnic table or other strategic location. I instantly have light when and where I need it, and a deterrent to unwanted visitors!

I've considered adding a forward facing light to the front jack housing using the existing light switch.

Interesting, but not interested. Oliver is simple, well designed for the space available. It is not full of gadgetry. KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid). I think I'm showing my age. SkyDream is just the opposite. The only thing they have in Common is they are made out of Fiberglass. Probably half the places I camp the deck would useless due to thing being in the way. Also in the Pacific North West (PNW) I would worry about leaks. Although when I saw the newest walk through video on the new LEII, I had reservations over the awning with the solar panels on top. It is great having that much extra charging power. I don't think the longevity of these flexible panels would come near the useful life span of the solid mounted roof top panels. Replacing the awning I'm sure would be very expensive. I have trouble getting the regular awning clean and dry in the PNW due to the 7-8 months of rain. When I do have the opportunity to roll out awning and clean and let it dry completely the Oliver and Awning ends up blocking the whole driveway. So it has to be a planned project. I do pack a small Stihl blower and a ladder so I try to blow off the pine needle/leaves/twigs off of the top before finally rolling it up for travel.

Wired and tested the iRV62 today. Very easy to wire to Oliver wiring with AM/FM, DVD, and CD player working great with original Jensen TV and Jensen speakers! Great choice!

Not powering up is NOT the same thing as it taking too many watts overloading an inverter! Given it "does not come on" (at all), it's simply not wired to a circuit supplied by the inverter. If an appliance wired to the inverter pulls too much amperage, your inverter will start making noise and will shut down when overloaded, but it certainly will "come on." What were they thinking at OTT! And BTW, a 2000W inverter by definition will run an 1800W appliance! Given the True Induction cooktop is rated at 1800W, and it's a 2-burner cooktop, then each burner is rated at 900W. If OTT had wired the cooktop properly, you could certainly heat up water for coffee on one (1) burner and run the fridge at the same time! You will be well under 2000W! 🤣 Get OTT to wire this properly! I would just DIY, as I suggested in an earlier post, but you have to be concerned of warranty issues. We have the LP cooktop of course, but like Bill mentioned also have an induction cooktop that we plug in indoors or out. We also do not use our LP stove stove to heat coffee water (unless battery SOC is LOW). We love these products! 😎 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSNTSVR/?th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Aigostar-Eve-Electric-Cordless-Boiling/dp/B07D3R7RZT/ https://www.amazon.com/Melitta-Pour-Over-Coffee-Stainless-Filters/dp/B0CSQLHFW9/

The propane cook top has been very reliable and works well for us.

https://res.cloudinary.com/lci-cloudinary/image/upload/v1734451736/Design Team/Sell Sheets/Lippert_-_Sell_Sheet_-_3000_Series_Windows_OEM_-_2023002334-WEB.pdf https://corporate.lippert.com/products/rv/windows For all the people interested in these other windows, link above. Not easy to fine.

Thank you Galway Girl for input from your actual experience! Very helpful!

It you look in the closet, there is a horizontal section of vent pipe about three feet long. If the trailer was parked with the nose up, that section of horizontal pipe would fill with water if the vent cap was off, or water was sprayed up under the cap. That's the only reasonable scenario that would cause blockage of the vent and result in slow drainage. Seems like dropping the nose back down would drain that standing water better than going on the roof with a vacuum. 😁 Us retired folks got to be carful on ladders! Cheers! Geoff

Our original Furrion DV1200 failed a few years ago, I found an old stock Furrion DV1100 that was the same size and plug/play unit that only lasted a few more years. Our Original Furrion unit was much larger than Snackchaser's original Furrion unit. Like JD indicated the old Furrion cutout is large enough for an addition cabinet. Decided to use a iRV62 stereo/DVD/CD player from Amazon like Snackchaser. Cut out a large 11"X7"X1/8" black plastic sheet from Amazon to cover the old Furrion cutout. Also cut out a 11"X7"X1/16" aluminum 6061 sheet from Amazon to add strength to the plastic mounting plate. Sandwiched the aluminum sheet between the plastic sheet and fiberglass hull with the iRV62 bolted directly through the plastic sheet & aluminum sheets. Furrion unit: iRV62 with plastic & aluminum sheets: iRV unit with backing plate on right next to old Furrion unit: iRV62 installed today: Plan to wire & test on Monday.

@dkeen, you're correct about using the tester. With the black probe on the ground bus, check for voltage with red probe on both sides of the fuse - with the fuse in place. There should be power on both sides of fuse. But that is probably not the problem if you already confirmed continuity through the fuse. If the fuse LED does not light with the switch on, it means that there is an open somewhere in the pump circuit. Probably a spade off one of the switches, or bad connection somewhere. Here are some easy checks: There should be a wire connected at the back of the panel directly behind the pump fuse. Count fuses from the top down to the pump fuse, and count same number of spade terminals from top down in the back — that will be the pump circuit and the easiest connection to check first. Just verify that the wire hasn’t pulled off the spade. Look at the pump wire connections next, pull on the wires to make sure they are properly spliced together. Least probable- You can slip your test probe into the pump butt-splices and check for volts to ground. Check all the pump wires with switch in both positions. !2 volts on any of these wires means you're getting voltage to the pump. If you have voltage, then the pressure switch is suspect. It should be normally closed. If it failed in the open position, then the pump and fuse indicator won’t work. If you haven’t found it at this point, then it gets more complicated and probably beyond typical DIY skills. The switches are 3-way, wired with the power going to one switch and the switch leg going to the other, with travelers in-between. The bath switch requires removal of the shelf which is a project on its own. This is further complicated by an in-line relay that handles full pump current so that the switches don’t have to. Sounds like your going to Oliver anyway, so its probably best to have them fix it. Even a seasoned RV repair guy would spend a good amount of time finding the problem. Good luck, Geoff

Home for the Summer! 🤣 Come see us if your heading one state further West! 😎 Got electric and water for you, free dump station down the street, and lots of great camping around town and in the Prescott NF! (no bighorn sheep though, how cool!)

Rally Early Registration is open and saves you $ as price will go up later. Rally link: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/events/oliver-owners-rally/ See Jason on the Morning Coffee Youtube just released...he also discusses the Rally Registration and Fee's in the video.

Just had our Alcan Springs installed today, along with Bulldog Shocks on our 2022. The Dexter Springs had started to flatten anywhere from 1/2" to 3/4". I had a spare Dexter 4-Leaf spring that the arch measured at 3-3/4".

I assume you are trying to fill your fresh tank from a "container" using your rear boondocking port to suck in water through the on board pump. Q) Was the pump able to pump any water out of your tank before you started? It may have lost prime. If you lose prime you can often get it to reprime by either removing and checking the water filter (near the pump) or by opening and closing each of the valves and ending back on the boon docking configuration. Our 2019 Has this Valve Configuration...not sure if it's the same for you but just as a cross check for sucking in thru our rear port.

I don't take the room to carry a ladder. With an old metal milk crate, I can reach up to our awning safety strap. Not going on the roof for anything! And for your dipstick and anything in the engine bay or an open truck bed, ya gotta get on of these! Somebody linked this in another post and I bought one. We always put it on our curbside rear truck wheel which allows Chris to climb up and reach in for cooking equipment. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Q8TWI/

This is great, there's more than enough light! Notice there's a shadow on the close section of the truck bed. It's from the deck plate hatch. Those with newer hulls would not have this issue since the hatch is now placed below. The light just needs to be an inch taller. The bracket that comes with the light is so short, it only lifts the light 1/4". I have some ideas for this...

It actually looks very good in your pictures, so must look perfect from the ground. Job well done and an excellent detailed write-up! 😎 Too bad OTT doesn't make a small flat area for the bathroom fan in their fiberglass molds (inner and outer hulls). It would make for a better fit and make this job easier on all of us!

I realized I did not take a picture of the installed Rear Porch Light in the daylight so I did that today. I kept the black rubber seal that OTT was removing since they were causing streaks with age. The rubber looks to be good quality, not like the rubber surround on the Furrion 30A receptacles that really streaked badly. If it streaks later I'll simply remove it then, but at this time I didn't want to mess with sealant. If I do add a rear camera, it would be for security purposes while camping vs. having eyes when backing up. I would not mount it rooftop where OTT did, but surface mount something below the OLIVER taillight and above the new Rear Porch Light. We usually have the TV down and the rear window shade closed, so it's not easy to look to the rear. Either way, it will be nice to have light back there when needed. Got my front light done today. Pictures coming soon! 😎

We use 200w Renogy panels when dry camping or boon docking for more than 3 days in one place. See our article. External Solar Kit Details - Hull 505 We've found that it's helpful when the trailer is shaded by tree's and we want to keep things topped off for longer stays. CS

Just replaced the Blum slide on our nightstand drawer. This item is the OEM part replacement. Maybe I should have bought the 6-pack, LOL! The nightstand drawer and 5 kitchen drawers all use the 18" length, the short drawer uses the 12" Blum slide. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0G7LQ3PQ4/?th=1 Lately, the drawer would open during travel so I suspected something was wrong. After removing the drawer (squeeze two orange levers underneath), I found the old slide was truly worn out. When fully extended the end would drop a couple inches. Not good! The new slide is in and now again it works great. But per the subject of this thread, OTT installed these slides with only three screws per slide! 😒 The slides are rated to carry 100 LBS, but three short #6 screws are certainly NOT! A couple year backs, working on a kitchen sink leak, I doubled all the screws on the kitchen drawers and went up one size. At the time, I forgot to do the nightstand drawer. The slides all wobbled a bit when unloaded with only 3 screws and I now contend it was the lazy installation that allowed this drawer to shake and eventually wear out the slides. These slides are substantial but need to be installed properly! BTW, Blum supplies 20 wood screws in these kits! 20 screws for 2 slides and 2 brackets not used for our application. I installed 8 screws on each slide! Why not? Blum certainly intends more than 3 should be used! I put 3 in the same holes to hold each slide in place and then drilled small pilot holes and screwed in 5 more (see pic)! Now this should last my lifetime. 😎 I suggest removing all your Oliver drawers, having at least 6 mounting screws per slide, 12 per drawer minimum.

I had this happen and found that one of the spade connections at the pump had come loose. I crimped the spade connection for a tighter fit, reinstalled, all good. A few others have experienced this, as well; simple fix!

I was thinking the same thing. You walk all over the “deck” then fold it up and it becomes an interior wall? I’ll pass.

Finished my install on a front light, but won't be able to see how effective it is until it gets dark tonight (more pics after). My hope is that when the TV is attached, I can unhitch when getting to a campground after dark and see what's stored in the truck bed. I got this Docking Light on the same order as the Porch Lights. https://itcshopnow.com/products/exterior-led-flood-boat-docking-light I used 3M 4950 VHB tape to mount it the the top of the doghouse. There is of course a wire harness, so I drilled into the doghouse but not on top, just behind it where there is room and it's out of sight. I used a 13/64" drill bit which is a hair over the diameter of the wire loom. The picture shows the SAE disconnect wrapped up, only so it could be seen in the photo. Got to have a disconnect to fill the LP tanks. I tapped into the power for the emergency brake which is unfused 12VDC (the brake switch still has a direct connection). Added an inline 2A fuse and a switch in front of the doghouse. Added wire loom and tied up everything. Chose this location for an easy reach from either side, somewhere out of the way, and with a straight line for drilling the hole. The light draws 0.3A and provides 290 LM at 5000 K. Can't wait to see it at night! 😎

When Twist was in production I asked that the trailer be wired for a rear camera but I would supply and install my own camera. I decided that I would mount it in the spare tire cover. For security purposes this is a good place. However, for traveling down the road - not so much. The spray from wet roads makes this camera location virtually useless and even when its not raining it is difficult to use the camera in order to see beyond the vehicle that is directly behind me. Therefore, for driving, I now have another camera mounted in the usual high position (up near the marker lights) but still retain the lower camera too. If you decide to do as I did and mount a camera in the spare tire cover - PM me. The spare tire cover is NOT "in line" with the body nor the rear bumper. Because of this I needed to put a spacer in so as to compensate for the different angles. Bill

Welcome Brian, looking forward to hearing more re your project(s)! Is it worth it? An extra 100W is a drop in the bucket, although aimed at the sun it is more efficient compared to each 100W on the roof. We added a Victron MPPT 30A SC and the 30-LB Renogy 400W suitcase. I've found almost 2 years later that we rarely use it and should have saved the upgrade $$$. Wish somebody told me this 2 years ago! We move around a bit. I now believe extra solar is for those who want to boondock in one place for a week or longer. And you have to chase the sun all day in moving panels. There is an Oliver owner who sells a machine that rotates the panel, but it's another thing to carry and it only holds one panel. The only guys I see running much solar are the ones that live in their campers, staying the 14-day limit on BLM lands. Since we move around a bit, sometimes just one overnight, most often we stay 3 nights and then "on the road again." In this use case the DC-2-DC charger is a much greater value. We can charge 200 Ah while towing a half day drive. 😎 Our 400W suitcase will not add 200Ah babysitting them all day on the sunniest of days! Here are my two related upgrade links:

Wild Bills RV and trailer park Boise Oklahoma overnight stop fantastic museum next door do not pass up the museum !!!