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I just noticed that with the exception of the dealer in Canada, all of them are now gone. All sales have officially moved back to Hohenwald. I think this will come as welcome news to many potential new owners. Many were opting to actually come to Tennessee for their pickup and delivery anyway. It has been reported that many dealers were taking payment, handing over the keys and sending people on their way without any kind of walk through. That's just not acceptable. Other dealers were selling the trailer, allowing the new owners to pick up their unit in Tennessee and still charging them $1.2-1.5K for "cleanup and delivery". That's just wrong. I believe this is a wise and good move for Oliver. They gave it a good run. Sometimes things just don't work out as well as predicted. Good job, Guys...

Sometimes Mother Nature has a very kind way of saying "Good morning".

Yes, you are correct. Oliver has had to source another coupler supplier. Bulldog is supposedly in bankruptcy proceedings as of Oct of 2025. Hopefully they will restructure. Pic of new coupler -

BRIEF UPDATE July 14, 2026: I accepted the generous offer by John @jd1923 and Chris to come farther west to Prescott and tackle this 'Check Trailer Wiring' issue. While my Oliver was jacked up, I was able to take care of some other regular maintenance work, and John helped out with that as well, but I will focus here on the trailer wiring. The main job was to replace the brake wires beginning at the left side (below the battery box) where the wiring exits the hull, and connecting new wires to each of the four brakes. John suggested pulling the new wires through the axle by taping them to the end of the old wires, for various reasons, but once the taped joint reached the opposite side and I needed to pull it out through that small hole in the axle, the tape broke apart. I tried pulling the new wire through that hole with some needle-nose pliers but the wire was so soft that small pieces were breaking off. So we reverted to my initial plan (based on several others here on the forum), and ran the new wires along the rear side of the axles, using split loom and zip ties to anchor it. We found that the butt connectors I ordered from Amazon did not hold; John tested one and the wires pulled right out without any effort. He had some older style butt connectors that we used, with much thicker metal inside, and then we added tape on the connections. I will probably come back to those taped joints with some liquid tape to try to weatherproof them better. (I saw that someone had used a clear sealant -- if anyone knows what that is called, I would like to find it. The liquid tape I have is black like tar.) The finished job looks really good. Note that I haven't tested by towing yet. After the rewiring, I measured the amperage at each wheel, after disconnecting the 7-pin connector from the truck and pulling the Emergency Brake pin. Each one measured about 3.0, with the left front measuring slightly higher. This was a good result in so far as the power was flowing from the Emergency Brake battery (I believe on the Oliver, this is the trailer battery; SOB trailers have a separate little battery for this power). After the tires were back on and everything was back in place, I tested again using the power from the truck through the 7pin connector, with John's son Adam helping me by being at the controls in the truck. Measuring the two main wires exiting the hull (below the battery box) the amperage was 1.85 and 1.71 on the left front and rear wires. This measurement is obviously without being in motion, and my understanding is that the truck will not provide the full power to the brakes in this case; I'm not sure what amount should be expected here, but power is flowing to both wires from the truck. Quoting from @Geronimo John in an older forum post, "... modern brake controllers sense when a vehicle is stopped and back off the power flow to the magnetic coils when stopped..." Yesterday, John and I performed another set of tests on the 7pin Cable wires where they enter the hull and exit the cable, inside a double sized junction box behind the small panel below the vanity sink (see earlier photos in this thread.) We tested amperage for each of the wires, and the 7pin cable seems to be working fine -- even jiggling the wire at the connector and below the Oliver -- so we elected not to replace it. Of course, once again, this is not in motion driving down the highway. None of this is definitive until I actually tow the Oliver, tomorrow morning. I will report again in a few days, and try to add some photos here for clarity. I don't think this is resolved yet, but making progress on eliminating things is good. Many heartfelt thanks to John, Chris and Adam -- they have all been extremely gracious hosts and very helpful, and have cheered me up as well. Many thanks as well to all the other forum members who have been helping out with ideas and links and questions. Now we are heading out for some fun!

Same here! My pantry shelf mod involved extending it out to make it even with the adjacent twin bed with heavy duty Velcro for securement. The additional length provides more counter space/staging area. I also extended the dinette table an additional 7” for an equivalent bump out; making its utility for dining much better. I previously installed sliding Lagun tables for each of the twin beds and used the original Lagun tabletop for the pantry extension, likewise the original pantry shelf for the dinette table extension. We’ve been very pleased with these mods. Here’s a pic of the two Lagun tables, a much more challenging mod I must say! For those that have the Lagun option, you know the nightstand drawer is restricted when this table is in use. In my year model the nightstand tabletop can be lifted off, allowing access to the drawer content from atop; which was acceptable, since I preferred the leave the Lagun mounted for daily use and stowing it was a PITA. By design, I can now open the drawer even with both Laguns permanently mounted; and the wifey is now happy to have her own bed table, being I tended to ‘hog’ the original one for self use! There have been a few mods featured in this forum on relocating the Lagun mount to the side of the nightstand to enable front drawer access and my mod, as well.

Hanging out at Glacial Lakes State Park (near) Starbuck Minnesota. Our second time here as the campground hosts. Been here since the first of July and leaving the 29th. I saw a camp host at another campground that put out hummingbird feeders, so I thought I’d give it a try. This isn’t “elegant” by any means. I grabbed an old fishing rod and secured the handle end under the edge of the A/C - twist-tied it to the TV antenna to keep it from coming loose. (Extreme vibration of our love-to-hate Dometic Penguin 2) Hummers showed up less than 24 hours later. I have it rigged just outside of the rear window so we can relax in bed and watch them come and go. IMG_9854.mov

These windows on the 2026 models are the ones that only open 3" at the bottom. The 90 degree windows are only on the 2027 models and should not be affected as the design is completely different from the ones on the 2026 models.

Where's Ollie is my favorite thread and it's 10 years old! Thanks @Mike and Carol for getting it started!

Over the past few days I’ve looked through all 39 pages of this thread. Very pretty pictures of “Where Is Ollie”. I have pictures of a not-so-pretty location. During late September, 2019 our Oliver was here for a few days We were parked near the base of this building A hint as to the location A screenshot from the campground’s website At the next campground after my one-and-only venture into NYC our Oliver was parked here. A much better looking location. September 30, 2019. And then again in June of 2026. Libby’s Oceanside Camp, York, ME. One of our favorite campgrounds. Bill

Association Island campground on the shores of Lake Ontario in upstate NY. This place has an interesting history. The island used to be the General Electric executive retreat. Thomas Edison held court there. Now it's a campground surrounded by water (there's a causeway), but some of the original buildings are still there. The largest, which was a lodge, has been refurbished into hotel rooms and there are dozens of sites and cabins, including many waterfront sites.

The ones on the 2027's are completely different and should not suffer this same fate.

For those owners that want to follow this story, please do so at https://www.facebook.com/groups/OllieOwners/permalink/2252240891847686/ I don't want to see this thread turn into "War and Peace" like the Alcan one did.

We actually tested this in Florida this past April. Outside temps were low 90s with 80%+ RH. With the Chill Cube in Dry Mode, the highest we saw inside was high 70s and 55ish% RH. So it didn’t quite get below 50% humidity, but it made a huge difference. At 77°F/55% RH it was comfortable enough to hang out in. In those conditions I’d say 55-60% RH is probably the realistic best-case without adding a separate dehumidifier. Bear in mind our Brinkley 5th wheel is not as “efficient” as an Oliver. We love the Chill Cube, the variable speed compressor is very efficient, we have seen similar numbers than @jd1923

There are times that I feel exactly the same way with regards to being out in the world! Bill

At one point, we were traveling with 2 cats, male and female siblings. One day the screen door got left unlatched and Callie (the brave one) wandered out, followed by Max (the big coward). Steph saw them and walked toward the trailer. Callie jumped back inside but Max panicked and dove under the fifth wheel. Eventually, by securing Callie inside and leaving the door open, Max made a mad dash back into the camper and hid under the covers. The outside world looked pretty good. Until they were in it. 🙂

Welcome and Congrats and enjoy the delivery day! There is something really special about taking delivery of a brand new Oliver, it was for us. Before you know it your day will be here!

I got this idea from a social media posting, but here's a quick mod that makes the "secret compartment" below the Pantry easier to access: 1. Pulled off VELCRO from cabinet. 2. Installed a couple 8" drawer slides from Amazon: 3. Replaced the VELCRO onto the drawer slides: 4. One and done, can't even tell the difference; except for the convenience factor - time for a cold one. Cheers! A & D

John and I don’t think the wire pulled from the axle looks like the culprit (though only the wire from front axle was pulled, the other is still in there, cut free)… only the small section near the hole with missing grommet was nicked. However, there were no warning messages yesterday. Today will be a longer tow, and I will keep the forum updated.

Time will tell! John and I don’t think the wire pulled from the axle looks like the culprit (though only the wire from front axle was pulled, the other is still in there, cut free)… only the small section near the hole with missing grommet was nicked. However, there were no warning messages yesterday. Today will be a longer tow, and I will keep the forum updated.

Ours too, but we're hoping to go camping for a few days next week! 😎 We just had a guest Ollie here, for a few great days! 😂 But now she's gone. You might know who. Woke up yesterday, looked out our living room window and I got scared! Thought for a moment we still had a Dometic P2, oh NO! 🤣

For those considering installing the Beech Lane fan, the instructions advise to mount it on the upper vent, blowing outwards. There is a small diagram on the side showing fan rotation and airflow direction.

To each his own, but from what I’ve seen from trailer sway videos, I’d rather have more protection than less, so I’m willing to forgo a little wear on the ball in the unlikely event that I would have to take evasive action at highway speed. So I’m stayin’ on the “Don’t lube your balls team” for now. 🤣

Yes you are correct, and that is for the VAST majority of trailers/TV's that use the Anderson. But.... The vast majority of OEII's just don't sway, even under extreme circumstances. Properly loaded they just don't sway. For that reason, many of us have no need for that great feature of the Anderson "system". Starting with John Davies, we lube the ball to reduce the wear. I am not suggesting that all new owners assume the same is for their setup. Get some experience and then decide how your rig handles under extreme conditions. If after a few years you figure it out, then join the "Don't lube your balls" team. LOL GJ

Agree, started participating in this thread almost 10 years ago. At home working on Ollie, it’s raining, so cannot finish everything today. Hopefully will be on the Blue Ridge Parkway camping soon, will take some “Where’s Ollie” photos, too!

Never thought it would last this long! Since we’re not able to travel for a while it’s inspiring to see everyone else contribute with really interesting places to keep it going. I had our Oliver in the driveway last weekend for some maintenance and at one point I just sat at the dinette and thought we’ve got to get on the road soon! Mike

@johnwen be careful of rigid connections to things that move or vibrate like at the water pump.

As JD pointed out natural convection will be low to high. Adding the fan above to move that hot air out is from an engineering perspective logical. Doing so puts the refer cabinet into a slight negative pressure condition. On the flip side, for those of us with the three-way there is another more important reason that I feel needs to be considered. The three-way units may be used on gas. Burning gas can, and does, omit some by-products that can harm. Like CO for example. If you set your fans up as a pusher (Moving air into the refer cabinet, and your seals on the cabin side are not perfect (And NONE of them are), you would be in effect giving the bad stuff a direct powered path into the cabin. You and your traveling partners may not wake up as a result........ This is why mechancal rooms are properly designed to be negative air pressure to occupied spaces. If yours is pushing air into the refer cabinet, I emplore you to change it. GJ

The Obeaming model I installed doesn’t have a physical button, but rather a center touch feature for on/off, as well as dimming and color selection. Wiring in my instance was simple; black to black, white to white. The wires were crimped and taped in my installation. I was pleased to find the overhead cabinets had routed channels to better conceal the wiring. Although the rivet holes matched these new lights, I choose to use screws rather than rivets; a piece of wood skewer was snapped off in each hole as filler for screw securement. I also decided to replace all of the former touch lights to forego any further issues. I’ve throughly enjoyed these lights for the past year and very pleased with the added ambiance of the blue color. They also operate as Tom @Tom and Doreen describes with “memory” when using the master power switch.

Performance update => I was able to run the Chill Cube 24x7, thermostat set at 74F, for 4 days producing this data. Data was recorded each day later afternoon 5PM +/-. The Chill cube did not quite produce the set temp in the heat of the day but did so the rest of the day. The high of 76F was still quite comfortable in the cabin. Off course our Oliver was unplugged, but in addition to battery power, our 320W rooftop solar was adding power consumed by the A/C. The table shows Ah used daily. Keep in mind this is with the A/C running 24x7 which is rarely our use case! Having 900 Ah it appears I can count on running the A/C 24x7 for 3 days, 4-5 days if it’s off during portions of the days. With 600 Ah you could truly count on two full 24 hour days. The picture below shows cabin and outdoor temps one afternoon during the test at 4:30 PM. The cabin temp is read by a Ruuvi sensor mounted above the kitchen sink. The sensor titled Oliver Trunk is positioned in the rear basement, near the incoming water lines down by the 4" drain plumbing. For "Oliver Roof" I placed a sensor rooftop under the solar panels so that it is in the shade. If I took this picture 1-2 hours earlier in the day the roof temp would certainly be above 110F! I had no idea these results would be so positive and being the avid boondocker, it's great to know we can now count on A/C cooling anytime/anywhere! When you have the old-school A/C, with the basic single-speed ON/OFF compressor (Dometic, Truma, Tosot, Houghton, etc.), you will use approx. 100 Ah per hour in the heat of the day (assuming 1400W while the compressor is ON). The inverter or variable-speed A/C will consume in 24 hours what the standard A/C will consume in just 2 hours, OMG! (BTW, the Dometic P2 will produce worse results since it uses 1800W when ON, or 150 Ah/hour). The technology capability today is amazing. Time to stop waiting on the next great product. We’re not getting any younger! 😎

Tractor Supply sells a 2” ball 7,000lb capacity coupler that looks like the hitch on the X23. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tractor-supply-traveller-straight-coupler-2-in-ball-7000-lb-capacity-2526179

Hey, our's was not brand new and it was still really special 😉 Welcome to the clan!

Welcome! I initially towed with at Tacoma as well. It didn’t take long to upgrade to a half ton. Will be interested in how it goes for you. Mike

I originally ordered the ‘Black Samba’ fiber-granite for our 2020 OLEll and also opted for the Lagun table in matching color. The Lagun table was only offered with the twin bed floor plan and was factory-mounted on the front of the nightstand, which blocked the nightstand drawer when in place (see pic). I kept the Lagun table permanently mounted even though it hindered access to the nightstand drawer and overhead attic. After a few years I decided to reconfigure the Lagun mount and add a second bed table for independent use by each of us. However, upon contacting Oliver to purchase another ‘Black Samba’ Lagun tabletop I was told that color was discontinued. I ended up buying two in a contrasting gray color that closely matched the vinyl flooring, ‘Monte Blanc’ fiber-granite. After developing a sliding mount and installing the two new Lagun tables, I decided to make use of the original Lagun tabletop by replacing and extending the pantry countertop. The original pantry countertop was then used to extend the dinette table. I previously stated that heavy duty Velcro was used to secure the extended countertop, but 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener was actually the product used, Velcro on steroids! Original pantry countertop used to extend the dinette table.

Yep and Yep. At least for our older trailers, annual cleaning (or more often in some locations) and gutters are the only fixes that worked in our case. GJ

I suggest using Riv-Nuts and bolt them down if you are having such a problem. GJ

Look at using King StarBoard for a better waterproof mounting board. It can be cut and shaped using regular woodworking tools. I get mine from McMaster Carr but there are less expensive places to get it. A shipment from McMaster Carr usually arrives the next day depending on where you are. I think I have ordered some from TAP Plastics https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/king_starboard/526?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21137328659&gbraid=0AAAAAD_hg_I8XrL-S3Ima0ZSWbIsffsZk&gclid=CjwKCAjwmdLSBhANEiwAkREMN3hswfK8uVUE38-cgCmjAoCwEzeXRTPZLhht1xFJJ1A8-NIIMHzIkhoC2_gQAvD_BwE I don’t know why that link has to have so much gibberish in it. Bill

We actually like the Velcro. I don’t know if others had this small storage area shown to them as a “secret compartment” - but I think the Velcro is more apt to keep it that way. Anyway - we go in that compartment so seldom that there’s not a huge convenience or time saving benefit for us. I’m also fond of leaning on that surface or putting quite a bit of body weight on it while extricating myself from the (king layout) bed. So making it readily movable will make it easy to bend those slides at least, and likely to send me crashing to the floor in the middle of the night at worst.

I don’t think I’ve seen any white plastic (PVC) pipe - only PEX. Where is there PVC?

On my Oli, I removed the rubber track cover and exposed the end of the felt track insert. I used two picks from my small O'ring pick and hook set to loosen the sides of the track and lifted one side of the track and then gently pull the one side up and rotated the track out of the slot. I was able to exposed the track bottom within about 3-4 inch of the center divider. I was then able to enlarge to drain holes and completely clean the inner track bottom. If you can get the Felt track insert up, then you will have a lot more room to get a small tube of chalk in the area and force it through the hole.

Excellent point! As others and self, the best position with the three-way is having fans in the upper vent whereby the fans blow outward and thus, pull air upward and out.

2 ACs, a chill cube in the living area and diesel sounding 1910 style Furrion up front! But the 2027 Brinkley models Zs now include dual Furrion Chill Cubes. The new 15k low-profile up front, and the std 18k in the living room. Maybe, with the gas prices we might end up in Texas this year.

My Tacoma was a 2012 and I had installed the TRD Supercharger, so plenty of power. The limitation was weight and range. Be careful not to overload - tongue weight, your body weight and cargo add up fast. I was stopping every 200 miles or less to fill the gas tank. Also, be aware that the overall weight of the Tacoma makes it easier for the trailer to push around in certain circumstances. I was always cautious on downhills and downhill curves. We’ve always liked the Tacoma’s we’ve owned, they just aren’t optimal for towing a 6,000 pound paperweight! After upgrading to a couple of half tons we’ve now been towing with a 2500 diesel for the past 5 years and the difference is night and day. A Tacoma will do the job, just be wary of its limitations! Mike

Was reinstalling our blinds today after cleaning them, so working inside the Oliver. Set temp was 76F and I lowered it to 68F and turned on the Turbo setting which activates the evaporator fan at the high setting. Outdoor temp was 94F, 110F on the roof, 104F in the basement under the streetside bed where the Victron MP2 is installed (see temp reading on picture). After I heard the compressor ramped up, I took this screen print. About 620W was the highest number I could see. The picture shows wattage inverter out and the A/C was the only 120VAC appliance on. The Chill Cube is rated at 18K BTU which we know is BS since the compressor rating is about half that. The Chill Cube night not be the best choice for those who plug in regularly and live where you need powerful cooling. The Tosot may a better choice for those who plugin at campgrounds, but we rarely plug in even when parked at home. The Chill cube in Turbo mode is not real quiet, but still less than half the noise of others. It's whisper quiet when sleeping at night when cooling needs are lower.

Thanks -- I did that. Glad to have this in the thread as a warning to others.

There are several posts discussing how the signature works... try this one: You could also search for something like "signature" in the search field in the banner at the top of a forum page.

There is some info here:

Anybody notice that they appear to be using a different coupler on the new Apex X23?

That's for sure, Chris! All Dometic units (except a 230V/50 Hz Inverter model in non-US markets) and Truma, the Atmos/Tosot and all others made through the years, the compressor goes ON & Off and you hear it with a bang and a thump! Add a Soft-Start and then they take 3-5 minutes ferbling around to finally start cooling!

That was big of Oliver. In my opinion Truma clearly had an engineering problem but didn't have the capacity to correct all the units in the field. Oliver really stepped up and backed their customers; awesome!

Bob, Any time your weep holes are blocked by felt or debris, water cannot flow and escape/drain. My weep holes are not blocked by felt and are clear. We have never had an issue with water intrusion on our 2020. I am meticulous about keeping the window tracks clean after every trip. I use compressed air from a can on trips or my air compressor at home. On much longer trips I will still periodically check my window tracks for dirt and debris to prevent this exact issue. Along with window gutters which do a good job of redirecting light rain off our windows, I have found it’s really critical to have our Oliver dead level when set up. When level even in a hard rain I have watched my window tracks slowly fill up with water and drain out the weep holes as designed, but the trailer must be level. We have been through some really hard “car wash” side way rain type thunder storms as recently as the last Oliver Rally and have not had any water intrusion. I attribute this to clean windows tracks and a level rig. I am not sure you can replace the felt, I think not. The exterior rubber seal covering your window track should be snug tight against the window glass and seated in the window track. When I reinstall the seal after cleaning the tracks, I install it with a slight angle from the glass to the edge of the frame. You also do not want any gap in this exterior seal along the track. A gap in the seal will allow in more water than the window track can handle and this will result in a trickle or overflow into your interior wall. Not the best window design IMO as it requires regular inspection and cleaning. Hopefully Oliver has addressed the window design with new tilt out windows which hopefully completely eliminate this issue. Others will surely chime in with their thoughts and suggestions. The above process has worked for me since we purchased our Oliver new in 2020. Patriot 🇺🇸