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I'm super excited tonight, because my best camping friend of many decades is here. We started tent camping, (in the 70s), did motorhome camping together, and last 14 years, travel trailer camping together, in separate trailers, on so many amazing trips. We both share other camping friends, and stories. It's a wonderful time swapping stories, and being back together. Tomorrow, newer friends (only a decade or so) will join us. It will be awesome, no matter the weather. We'll miss some other friends who couldn't make the trip this time. I truly treasure the friends I've made camping here, and around the world, and north America. We'll be missing you, @bugeyedriver and @JuniorBirdMan, this trip. We'll photoshop you into the group photo.

Yes, I bought a longer one like linked above and a holder that uses a suction cup to attach to the hull. You have to remove the existing hose and attach the new hose to the back of the valve panel in the basement. Had to use some Teflon tape because the threads were not a good match. This thread has a photo of the connection and other useful information.

Seems like everybody should check. Rare, but if it happens… From Service… “did get a response from engineering that a flange bolt is used on that connection. I would prefer a nylon lock nut, a lock washer & nut, or the double nut method myself. I will be reviewing this with engineering further.”

I am taking delivery of a 2021 Elite 2 (Hull 948) on 11/11/21. I have ordered almost everything in Foy's catalog ordered except for the bed platform. For those of you who haven't worked with Foy yet, he is a class act. He will do a quick call with you if you need to speak with him and he is very responsive. We are lucky to have him in the Ollie community.

James, I'm not Foy, but I'm sure it will be fine for you to come to this mini Rally and see what's what. There will be plenty of folks to talk to and I'm sure you can find out more than you ever wanted to know about Oliver Travel Trailers. We will be in Hull #050 in site #83. Feel free to come by and 'set a'spell'.

I personally think the gladiator is a great off road vehicle. However, I feel it makes a better toad than steed. The payload will probably be under 1k and the max tow will most likely be 4K ish. Carefully look at the numbers before you take the next step.

Thanks to all for the suggestions! Much appreciated. We have hull #747 so we probably have the same pump as #688. We have cleaned out the filter and checked another supply line for debris but that is it so far. No problems at all on city water, and the low pressure problem we have developed slowly during a 2 month trip last summer. The pressure goes down considerably once the accumulator pressure is depleted, at both the kitchen and bathroom sink. Have spoken to the Oliver service folks about this and they asked us to send a video, but by the time we got the request from Oliver the trailer was already empty and in storage. I was thinking that a spare was a good idea in any case, even if we get the current pump back to its original state.

I was having an issue with reduced water flow at the outside shower head. Thinking it might be the usual mineral buildup or plastic shavings issue in the hose or shower head, I decided to disassemble things starting with the shower head and working upstream. No mineral buildup or plastic shavings found, but when I removed the flex hose from the valve assembly, I did discover that the rubber washer that seals the flex hose to the valve assembly was swollen to the point that it was almost completely restricting the flow of water from the anti-siphon check valve inside the valve assembly. I’ve only used the normal chemicals in the water system for cleaning, disinfection, and winterizing (vinegar, bleach, and RV anti-freeze). But the seal obviously didn’t like one or some combination of those chemicals. I replaced the seal with one from my plumbing parts stash and now the flow is back to normal. Just something else to check for anyone noticing reduced water flow. Just be careful when removing the flex hose. There are several small parts to the little check valve inside

We are at 6,800 after 7 months of ownership. Not retired yet so limited on how many/how long trips can be.

We just spent a week in southwest Colorado at Bayfield Riverside RV Park. Our son and family live in Durango and Bayfield is just to the east. We don’t normally do commercial parks but this one was nice, well maintained and convenient to what we needed to do. Our son and family pulled their RV out over the weekend and camped next to us, a new experience! Cowboy parade in Durango. Our site from across the river. Running river water can be very soothing! A very nice park, well maintained. Our site with my son’s NoBo next door.

Steve and a lot of other newer owners: PLEASE PLEASE go to your account and enter you trailer type, hull number, and tow vehicle info. This info is very helpful for assisting others with problems they may have. Steve: Assuming your Anderson was set up properly, needing 8 threads is pretty extreme. What is your Anderson ball drop (Height above ground unhitched less hitched height? GJ

The GFCI outlet is under the dinette in my 2017 LE2. I’m not sure where it is in a 2021, so you may have to look around. Do you know how to turn the inverter on? I believe there is a remote panel or display that should be active, maybe above the dinette. Mossey

Looking forward to learning more about the Tundra!

Is the inverter turned on, and if so, have you checked to make sure the GFCI isn’t tripped at the outlet?

pricing and more product info on 10.12tue...

Bill

I don’t pay too much attention to the temperature or pressure readings while the trailer is parked because I usually turn the monitor off shortly after arriving at a campsite. I really don’t think it matters as long as they were within the target parameters when I turn it off. I do know that the monitor reads each sensor in 5 second intervals and any changes are updated within a short distance of travel. If I drove 5 miles at 60 mph and didn’t see any change in temperature or pressure, I would be concerned. And I really think I need a TPMS when the trailer is moving. Mossey

Mike, Looks nice! We will put Riverside campground/area on our list to visit! Thanks,

I just went out to the truck and brought the monitor in to the trailer. When we arrived here (Taos, NM) tire temperatures were high 60s and TPs were high 50s. I just turned it on and after 45 seconds or so the monitor started showing temps and pressures. Tire pressures are all at 50 psi, where I set them when cold and tire temps are all 55, which is the outside temperature right now, much less than high 60s when we arrived earlier this week. The little batteries have been lasting a couple of years and are not hard to replace. Mike

For the Elite II- Legal - yes Smart - no

If I were attempting subzero in my older 2008 Elite, I'd camp winterized, and use a bucket or portapotty. No ducted furnace, in ours. We've camped with lows in the mid to high teens, in ours, but highs above freezing. No damage if we ran the furnace, and opened hull access, but it did burn through propane. Here's an interesting thread for you cold weather folks. Four seasons is one thing. Camping in cold is another.. Sub zero, is yet another, in my book. Not my cup of tea. We usually carry a gallon of rv antifreeze, just in case, for vulnerable places.

I would not recommend the Gladiator as a TV for the Oliver Legacy Elite ll for all the reasons mentioned above.

We’ve camped in the low 20s and high teens. Never below zero. The furnace can keep the inside of the trailer comfortable, although you will go through propane pretty fast. I’m not sure how the water tanks would do at temperatures below zero. Doesn’t sound like fun to me! I’m sure there are brave owners that camp in extreme temps that will weigh in. Mike

Sure, it will tow the bigger Oliver but you won’t be happy. Payload and fuel tank size are marginal. If you plan on visiting mountains you will be at your limits going uphill and downhill. Mike

And one last thought, it may have been an installation error. So try remounting the pump a 1/2” north, south, east or west of it’s present location with new coarse thread screws. Put a washer on top off the rubber feet to help control the depth of the screw so it doesn’t penetrate the plastic wood entirely. If the screw passes through the board completely and hits the fiberglass, it could strip the hole in the board. Use a screwdriver and not a screw gun so you have a little more feel. Maybe even try some test screws for practice. Kreg pocket hole screws for soft wood might be a solution. My pump is mounted with lathe screws and hasn’t failed yet. Mossey

You could use starboard, which is an upgrade from the PVC boards that they use. A little bit denser, I believe. Or wood, just screw/glue it to the existing board. The epoxy Oliver uses to attach those boards is <STRONG>, so long as they used enough of it and didn't just drizzle it on (it's expensive, I hear, so used sparingly). But you could probably use it to attach a block to the front of the trailer and tow with it (not recommended). I don't know about attaching electrical stuff to aluminum plates. Most of those components will have chassis grounds, which means that when you screw them to the plate, the plate will have a path to ground as well, and if a positive wire comes loose, there's a good chance it's going to land on that plate. Sparks, melted aluminum and all that. If you do it, I'd use some good strain relief on all the wiring (which you should do anyway - I see so many people dismiss that step).

I think it's a good idea to carry a spare pump as well. I found the exact match for the one installed in Hull #688 on Amazon: SHURflo 12v 3.0 GPM Revolution RV Water Pump # 4008-101-A65 In addition to checking the filter mentioned by @mossemi, I'd recommend treating your plumbing with a vinegar solution if you haven't already done so to see if that helps. We had some pressure issues shortly after taking ownership and it shocked me how much Ca/Mg can quickly build up and create pressure problems in the plumbing.

Thanks very much for bring up this issue Ralph. It prompted me to check my support and sure enough, both bolts were in place, but nuts were loose, I could easily undo them by hand. I turned in a service ticket, and also included a link to this thread. I’m going to replace the nuts with nylon locknuts. Ive got just under 5000 miles on my 2021 trailer.

I don't nor have I ever owned an Andersen. The only way I can see that the chains could have "tightened" was for the whale tail to have made a 360 degree 'flip' while it was unhooked, thus drawing the chains tighter.

Our 2016 Tundra was the SR5 trim, Debbie likes the power passenger seat in the 2022 SR5 that our 2016 SR5 did not have. Here's a video on the 2022 SR5 trim:

I made a sheet metal box to fit in the space but not hit or rub on any wires or tubing. It is suspended from the flange so it can not drop down. It is easy to remove and reinstall.

Very interesting to hear the opinions of others on similar equipment. My first response to the title here was - Why on earth.... But as usual - JD has a well reasoned answer to that question. I have no complaints with my brakes - after 17k miles they remain in decent shape - and I'll take another look at them in the fall. But then I tow with a 2500 with a robust breaking system - and the Oliver doesn't have to work that hard on the braking. The Oliver seems to represent a great platform for the "I can make it better" crowd. And conversely - works really well for the rest of us.... Now here is a counter opinion - I have a mind to switch from the E-II down to a E - I, Find a pre-owned - basic - and go from there.... Carry on. RB

The 2022 Tundra hybrid will not be available until spring in higher trim models.