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Partially the answer to your question depends on how long your arms are. I'm six feet tall with average length arms and I've been able to perform this type of maintenance from a ladder by securing the ladder firmly to the Ollie and simply leaning over the roof while my feet are still on the ladder. Is that comfortable - no. Does it get the job done - yes. For more extensive operations (i.e. removing the MaxAir for instance) I'd crawl onto the roof. But for routine maintenance and waxing, I prefer to stay on the ladder. Bill

If you’re a Ford Super Duty owner (F-250 and F-350, 2017 through 2022), keep an eye out for a recall notice from Ford for a potential driveshaft issue. But you can still check for yourself to see if anything (loose thermal or noise shield) is contacting the driveshaft on your vehicle. I’ll be checking mine. https://abcn.ws/3IjZ8Am

Thanks Patriot and FrankC. The heads up you both provided prompted me to check online to see if my truck (2021 F250 gasser) is impacted by this recall and it is so I'm following up with my dealership to have the issue addressed. If there's anything notable about the actual repair work I'll post it.

I failed to mention it in my reply above, but I have a 2020 gasser….with a steel driveshaft. Only the aluminum shaft models were recalled, but the point of my post was that my vehicle had same problem. As the article pointed out, F150’s were recalled for same reason some time back. So if you have an F150, and you were not recalled, I think it’s worth a check.

Auto drain valve? One more thing to break, IMO. I like the KISS principle here. TPMS? We also have the TST system. If you plan to bring it to your delivery, take some time at home to program it for the correct tire pressures before you go down. One less thing to do in Hohenwald.

Many thanks Frank! This is important! After I read your post I crawled under my 2020 F250 and found the insulator had come loose as described in the press release, and was rubbing on the driveshaft. The insulator is held in place with adhesive patches that apparently failed. My driveshaft is steel however, not aluminum as described in the news article. Nevertheless, it’s still a problem. It’s the shaft up forward, behind the transmission. I called my dealer and made a service appointment tomorrow morning. They advised my truck is NOT listed in the recall, aluminum driveshafts only, but it is covered under warranty. I also called Ford Customer Service and confirmed, but I asked them to take note that the problem includes steel driveshafts also. You can see from the pics that the steel heated up enough to cause a slight color change, and I can feel some smooth wear channels that go around the shaft. I followed Franks advice, and I encourage everyone with a Ford Super Duty 2017-2022 to check it out themselves.

Ok Snake, you asked for it. First our rather detailed total travel inventory of EVERYTHING we carry when out for 3 to 5 months up to 4,400 miles from "home". Granted you likely will not be carrying two paraglider kits (Deduct 100 #), or maybe as many tools. But you will find dozens of items you have not yet taken into account I suspect. Our Tow Vehicle ("The Beast") is a 2019 FORD F-150 3.5 EcoBoost, LARIAT, 4X4, FX4, SUPRCREW, 145” Wheelbase, with a 5.5’ Box. Per Ford requirements we MUST use, and do always use the Anderson. The Squat numbers without the Anderson is just for grins to demonstrate the impact on ride height. So, below is how the inventory with my wife and I included and a full tank of fuel, wet tanks half full looks like: UPDATED ANDERSON BALL HEIGHT RANGE: 23.5” to 25” Below from F-150 during the Summer 2021 Truck mostly loaded Ball Height: 24 ¾” Ollie hitched without Anderson: 22 ¼” Ollie hitched WITH Anderson Set 23 ½” Truck squat reduced to 1 ¼” AGRICULTURAL SCALE: Summer 2021 Fuel Full, Truck Fully Loaded, Ollie Tanks 50% (This is our Highway Travel Loading) The BEAST OLLIE Front 3,000 Axles 5,350 Rear 3,550 Truck 6,650 Truck 6,650 Actual CGCW 12,000 Max GCW 16,200 Under GCW 4,200 POUNDS UNDER Below are the Ford max loadings for our vehicle. As you can see, we are well under all of them F-150 Tow Info: Max Payload = 2030 # MAX Tow Rating = 12,700 # (With WDH) Front GAWR = 3,450 # Rear GAWR = 3800 # GVWR = 7,000 # GCWR = 16,200 # So, as you can see, our Beast is not being stressed to the max. I have towed our 2018 OEII 24,000 miles and have no regrets with the capabilities of our TV. However, if I were another thousand pounds heavier, I think it would no longer be suitable for our mountain adventures. So, in summary for mountain boondocking: Based upon 57 years of towing experience in general and having a CDL for moving heavy permitted loads, and having now four safe seasons with an OE2: A. Your list of "Stuff" needs a major overhaul. B. If you are going to use a compact truck to haul an Oliver, it will work well for the smaller 18 foot version in flatland. But not for mountain boondocking. It frankly eventually will put you into a dangerous situation. Geronimo John 2022 Trailer Inventory and Packing List (16 FEB 2022 Version).xlsx

You can use the “crawl space” between the awning and the center bulge of the roof easily, IF you raise up the solar panel to give extra room. A foam “eggcrate” camping pad cut in half lengthwise provides padding and a completely not-slip work surface. Be sure to tie your access ladder to the awning so that you are not stranded up there if it falls over. This will only work if you have a single awning, for obvious reasons: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2791-how-to-solar-panel-extension-arms/ John Davies Spokane WA

Yes. I lean a ladder against my awning on a routine basis, while washing and waxing after each trip. I have the Fiama manual awning. I cut a pool noodle to fit the top two rungs of my ladder so there is no damage to the fiberglass. I’ve removed my maxxfan without getting on the roof, just leaned over the top of the ladder. I would hesitate to get on the roof, not a lot of real estate up there, slanted, slippery, etc. Mike

Hi Grip, there are tons of posts on the forum that cover various aspects of trailering and camping in cold temps with an Ollie. To sum it all up, if you haven't made some modifications to heat/protect some of the more vulnerable plumbing areas (outside shower, check valves on the exterior water inlets and from under the bathroom sink to the toilet) it's generally recommended to leave your plumbing winterized - especially while traveling in freezing temps. While camping, freezing temps won't be as dangerous to the plumbing, especially if you keep your propane heat on as that does help keep the basement warmer. Everything depends on the conditions of course (temperature, wind, duration...). Probably not the answer/advice you were hoping for, but I'd say better safe than sorry. 🙂

That's what I read, too. They, like we, use as little power as possible, while camping. After dark, a single LED light, interior, intermittent. When we actually need it. It's how we camp. Hard sided tent.

I read what they wrote as they rarely ever use the 12V fridge setting and the 110 only if plugged in...

Tire Pressure Monitoring System. I use the TST TPMS. There are other good ones, Tireminder is one. I have a sensor on each trailer wheel. Tells me the pressure and temperature of each tire. If there is a sudden reduction in pressure I get an alarm. Mike

Without the Auto feature, there is a regular pull handle in the bathroom wall down low, You push it IN for travel (closed), OUT for camping (open). It operates a waste valve just like the other two ones in back. It actually opens and closes the grey tank vent, to allow it to work correctly. Is it worth $300 to not do it by hand? Only you can answer that. I would rather buy something actually useful with the money. Like a TPMS system John Davies Spokane WA

I think like a lot of Elite II buyers, we were torn between the twin beds vs the king. We chose the twin, but not so much for the size or comfort of the beds as it was the utility of nightstand and easy access to the overhead compartments. But we liked the idea of having a table and a large lounging area in the back, and so I set my mind on the idea of trying to have both. At first I designed a custom table for the back that would latch into the nightstand in the back with a pole in front, similar to how the dinette table works. I showed it to Oliver and they thought they'd give it a try, but as time went on and things got delayed or forgotten, I sort of gave up on that idea and asked if they would just sell me the standard table top and legs and I would figure it out. They did, and it was a big mistake since I could never figure it out. The table was just too heavy and bulky to put up and take down, and there was absolutely no place to store it. Plus the height with the standard legs was too short for the mattresses we had (another poor decision on my part). So on our first trip it was labeled the Albatross Table and it was just in the way the whole time. It didn't make another trip, just the two mounts screwed to the floor to remind me that not every problem has a solution. But the solution does exist in the Lagun table. I'd seen them before in the king bed model but I had sort of dismissed them as being too small to be of use. But that was before @rideadeuce started this topic about their upgraded table top. Their top was much larger, foldable, and just generally nicer looking than what I'd seen before; and so it clicked with me that with the Lagun mount, we could have a foldable table that could easily be stored or moved out of the way for access to the upper storage. Also the height could be whatever we wanted and unlike the table we had, could be quickly locked for travel. There were just two problems for us - the mount in it's normal location would block the nightstand drawer; and on top of that, we had opted for an access hatch to the basement right in that same spot where the Lagun is usually bolted to the hull. I needed a way to mount the table to the side somehow. So I made one of these - This contraption is made out of 15 Series extrusion from 80/20. I cut, mitered, and erector setted this little block and associated connectors to go beneath the bed overhang. The Lagun mounting plate (the vertical piece) bolts to the mount and then the whole thing gets bolted to the side wall under the bed in four places and to the bed overhang in four places. It looks complicated but if you have a miter saw and can play with Legos, you can build it. Here are some pics of the block in place so you can see how it mounts. The top two bolts on the Lagun plate bolt into the side of the bed extension, then there are two bolts on the block that secure vertically into the base of the extension, then another four bolts that go into the side wall of the base of the bed, opposite the basement. I marked and drilled for the two vertical holes first, then temporarily bolted it in place to mark all the other holes. You need to do this since not all of the surfaces are perpendicular to the trailer or one another. But the flat bottom of the bed extension runs parallel to the floor so if you use that as your starting point then the table top will end up parallel to the floor as well. The end result is extremely solid - The table top I chose is the 35" Nautic Sail top from Marine Teak. Look around on their site and you'll find a number of styles and sizes, any of which would be a great choice. (This is the same company as this one, btw, but they have more choices in table tops on their UK site.) I debated oiling it, but came to my senses and coated it in a couple layers of low gloss poly. Taking it apart to seal is no problem, but you do have to keep track of a number of shims that go under the hinges to make them flush to the wood. So here's the final result. I really like the versatility of the top. Use it folded, unfolded, bar height, table height, sideways, lengthways, stick it over the bed for travel or to get it out of the way, or...however. With the mounting plate where it is, we can raise the table hight enough to clear the nightstand and lower it enough that it sits on the bed locked in place for travel. As you can see, the drawer clears just fine. The table will work best once we have our cushions made to replace the mattresses, but we just did a quick weekend trip with it and it works well even as it is. And best of all, it fits in the closet -

The exterior solar port that Oliver installs does NOT run through the Zamp solar controller. This exterior port connects directly to the batteries and, therefore, any portable panels must have a charge controller of their own.

How difficult is it to access the roof penetrations that need sealant maintenance? On our fifth wheel I can simply climb the ladder and walk/crawl around the roof to do this work. I imagine most of the things along the edges are accessible by ground ladder, but what about the Maxxair vent and other things in the middle of the roof?

Good to know. Thanks for the responses. The big day getting closer...

You are correct 12volt is used by everything. I am fairly new to the Oli and have only been out on a few 4 day boondocking trips. AGM Battery management has been a big deal especially in cooler weather. I do not have a generator at this time, so I am totally dependent on the Solar. Running the fridge off of 12volts really isn't practical with everything else on 12volts. Man, if I had the 630ah solar package and could actually get them recharged daily with cloudy skies, and trees overhead that would be great. Unfortunately I don't have the $$$$ to upgrade to something like 630ah art this time.

This recall does NOT apply to the 6.7 diesel Super Duty Trucks only the gassers. The diesels have steel drive shafts the gassers have aluminum drive shafts. Please see the attached. https://abcnews.go.com/US/wireStory/ford-recalls-heavy-duty-pickups-drive-shafts-fracture-83082755?fbclid=IwAR3DhopMgVVdkJng_mXAOC4ZgmKcz664vyVbiUaN-IbbKLKZGFayqkzccUs

We have been doing the same.

9F is cold. I would winterize for sure. We’ve traveled when the temps were high 20s for a few hours, just left the furnace on set to about 50 and we had no problem. Mike

Here's one recent thread to get you started

You'll know to place the valve in the "other" position when your feet get wet.😁

That's one of my wife's jobs to control that valve, I personally don't know which way is open, or closed. trainman

You need to have your TPMS when you get to Hohenwald. There’s not much to installation…. With the TST you just screw the sensors onto the tires, do some programming (button pushing) on the small monitor and you’re done. Mike

We have the manual drain valve and like many others have forgotten to open it once or twice!! It is on our check list now. The manual is easy to use. Automatic won't solve the problem of forgetting to open or close the valve. I have to agree manual in this instance makes sense. One less thing to fail for whatever reason, and reallocating those funds for tpms is a terrific idea.

I replaced my 4 AGMs last January with 2 BB 100ah batteries. After a year of travel and camping those two BB’s were plenty. I just put in a third BB last month, not because I needed it but in case we swap out fridges sometime in the future. We haven’t been our yet with the additional battery but I’m looking forward to it. One thing I noticed with the Battle Borns is how quick they were back up to 100% once the sun came up. Plus the weight difference is pretty significant. Mike

It’s funny that you mention that. Oliver did away with the flooded cell solar option and made the agm upgrade more expensive. Looking at the two lithium options…the 630, because it is uniquely able to fit that much capacity in the battery compartment, is more appealing than ever. Add that to the fridge always pulling power and I could see myself upgrading to 630 for 2023 units. I’m planning on 3 BB batteries this fall. If I had a two way fridge I’d probably want more…

Hey Steve... Would you still feel the same way with the 630ah Lithium package? I am thinking the extra power would run that fridge for a long time. Granted there would be other draws from the battery bank and the solar would have limited replenishment (thinking 2-300 amps in a sunny day). Would that change your mind? BTW... asking for an "in real life decision" not just wondering... and I would value your opinion. Hope you are well and look forward to seeing you in May. Scotty

I would hate to lose the propane function of the refrigerator. Even with a "more efficient" 12 volt compressor fridge, it's still using battery power. I'm more concerned about battery power than running out of propane.

I totally agree, living in the PNW. Between 8 months of gray skies and our beautiful luscious trees, direct sunlight is a summertime luxury. We rarely ever use 12volts, and only 120v when plugged in. It is pretty cool though camping under the trees canopy.

The need/requirement for use of a weight distribution hitch such as the Andersen system is based on the manufacturers specs for tongue weight limit of the tow vehicle. If you check the towing guides that are published by the manufacturers, you will find that most 1/2 ton pickup trucks have a tongue weight limit of 500 lbs. for a basic weight carrying hitch, and for tongue weights above that you need/ require a weight distribution hitch. And an Elite II will exceed a 500 lbs. tongue weight. And when you get above a 500 lbs. tongue weight you are probably starting to get really close to your payload/cargo limit of your tow vehicle (this is NOT the same thing as towing capacity) when you add in your camping gear, a bed cover or cap, a bed liner, Rock Tamer mud flaps, tools, etc. Here’s an example from Ford’s towing guide showing the tongue load limits for the F-150. And all the limits are based on assuming a 150 lb. driver and passenger. I don’t know about the rest of you but 150 lbs was a long time ago 😂

On the topic of "Do I need the Anderson Hitch with a half ton pick up?" IMO... Nope.. you don't need it. A half ton will pull and Oliver just fine without a WDH... But change the wording of the question a bit to: "Is a WDH required with most half ton pick ups?" or "Is a WDH a good idea for most half ton pick ups?" I would answer with a resounding YES! Thought you all might find this article interesting. https://www.hardworkingtrucks.com/vocational/article/15047718/get-sued-the-easy-way-tow-trailers-with-pickups

Payload will be a limiting factor - just depends on what you take with you in the truck. Yes - It will be more than you think - esp over time. Secondly - as has been mentioned - just drive the TV with something comparable in tow. Give it a good workout in multiple situations - you will find your answer. As for the numbers - you are right near the cusp of not enough - doable - but if you go a lot, too many areas with varied terrain - you may find you're not quite satisfied. As JD said on paper it looks fine - ...."No hurry" across Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, SD, .... No thank you- Warp speed for me......the Ollie tows just fine at 70mph. The cats meow is a 3/4 ton 4wd, diesel - but I digress. Good luck and happy trails. RB

I faced a similar decision as you when I finally pulled the trigger on my 2020 Oliver II. I purchased my current tow vehicle many years ago, choosing the most capable tow vehicle at the time that would fit in my low height urban garage. When it came time to buy an Ollie, I could not find a better tow vehicle that would fit in my garage aside from a few $100,000 plus vehicles like BMW, Toureg, etc. They wouldn't work for me because I need a very capable off-road hunting vehicle on many of my camping excursions. My current vehicle has a GVWR of 5,720 lbs, 7,000 lbs towing capacity, 700 lbs max tongue weight, but only 1,120 lbs cargo capacity. The engine develops 320 lb-ft of torque at 3,200 RPM. It has a towing package and auto-height adjusting rear air springs. From the numbers you give for your current tow vehicle, you should be safe towing an Oliver II and you will likely feel safe when towing, but only if you have the discipline to pay attention to how you load the trailer and how well the Andersen hitch is set up. The sway control built into the Andersen is not really needed in normal towing, but could be invaluable in an emergency maneuver. The real benefit of the Andersen hitch in a marginal tow vehicle is the ability to actually achieve the rated cargo capacity which requires precise weight distribution between the front and rear axles. If you are under the GVWR of the tow vehicle when towing, but the rear axle is 300 lbs over its max axle rating (and the front axle is 300 lbs under its max axle rating), safety will be compromised and you will be out of spec even though you are at or under the vehicle GVWR. I suggest that you load your tow vehicle how you would normally drive without camping gear (i.e., driver, passenger and dog?) with a full gas tank, and then weigh it, recording the weight on each axle. Then put a known wight (say 200 lbs) into the front of the truck bed and re-weigh to determine how much of the additional 200lbs falls on the front axle and how much falls on the rear axle. Now look at the headroom left on each axle (how much below max axle weight rating). Lets say for example that after weighing the vehicle with 200 lbs cargo in the truck bed, you have 800 lbs cargo capacity left (GVWR minus combined weight on both axles) with 300 lbs of headroom on the front axle and 500 lbs headroom on the rear axle. If you expect to run your Ollie II with 600 lbs tongue weight plus 50 lbs for the Andersen hitch (total 650 lbs), you will need to shift at least 150-200 lbs from the rear axle to the front axle. The Andersen can do that. If you need to shift much more weight than that to the front axle, then your tow vehicle probably won't work (can't be set up safely) without running with an empty truck bed. As many have said here, you will have issues associated with the under powered engine as I do. That said, I have never found that to be a trip killer based upon the way I have used my Oliver. I don't mind occasionally dropping to 55 mph on long hills and I have become used to the noise and poor gas mileage associated with the frequent need to operate at the higher RPM of the engine's torque band. I also typically tow almost exclusively at 5,000 ft altitude or lower. If there is a 30 plus mile an hour headwind, I may just put off travel until the wind changes I would never choose my current vehicle to tow the Oliver II and you wouldn't choose your current one either. However, if it comes down to starting with the tow vehicle you have and upgrading later, or not getting the Oliver, my vote is choose the Oliver if the current tow vehicle you have can tow the Oliver safely. Lot's of great new tow vehicles will come on the market in the next few years including SUV's like the 2003 Sequoia and hybrids and electrics. I am very much looking forward to upgrading my tow vehicle, but it is not urgent.

Good Morning and Welcome!! I'm a newbie to the Oliver Travel Trailer thing, but not to towing. Spent most of my life hauling livestock. From your numbers your truck can pull it. You see a lot of posts like this where people worry about their tow vehicle. In my opinion, the real question should be can my tow vehicle stop it in an emergency situation. I believe in overkill. I want much more vehicle than I need, but that is just me. If you are concerned now, you will be concerned on travel days. This concern will add much stress to your vacations or get away. Especially on these fine roads out there that are constantly under construction, no shoulder, tire debris that just pops up in front of you and those drivers that really shouldn't be driving. You know, the ones that stop in lane 2 of a freeway so they can try to get over to exit. So, in my opinion, if this is on your mind now, it wont go away. In my limited miles towing the Oliver, it tracks true, you frequently forget it's back there. I have already scared myself looking in the rear view and seeing someone on my tail, only to realize.... its just the Oliver :-). I haven't weighed mine full yet or I would give you those numbers to help you out for a general ball park.

We take delivery on our Elite II in September. The Elite II we toured had the Twin Bed option. I am 6'0". The twin bed I laid down on was long enough for me, but not wide enough to support both my shoulders. That is because a standard twin bed is 38" wide, while the Oliver twin bed is only 30". I concluded I need that extra 8" to be comfortable. So, we ordered the Standard Floor Plan. Also, absent twin beds that are the full 38" wide, my wife and I prefer a king-sized bed to a double or even a queen. One reason we ordered an Elite II instead of an Elite is that, with the Standard Floor Plan, the Elite II bed is king-sized. We plan to leave that king-sized bed made up and just use the dinette area for meals, etc. I strongly recommend that, if you haven't already, you arrange through your sales rep to tour an Elite II with the Twin Bed configuration. After lying on that twin for a few minutes, then decide for yourself if you will be comfortable sleeping on a 75" x 30" twin long term.

"Certainly I can remember something as simple as THAT!" Which is the reason I now carry 2 rugs for the bath floor so I can still have one to use while the other one is drying. Bill

I won’t ask because I know how you know! I think about everyone has forgotten once or twice to open while setting up camp. It gets back to checklists/routines/flags/double checking/etc. Mike

Now that you know about "open" and "close" all you have to remember is to actually "open" and "close" it. Don't ask me how I know this! Bill

Andrew is correct. Closed when traveling/storing. Open when using. If it is closed when water is going down the drain to the gray tank it will start to back up through the shower floor drain. You can guess how I know.... Mike