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100% agree with the comfort level and the 6.7 PS diesel 10 speed smooth as butter! 👍🏻

North America! I need a bigger bucket for a complete list. I guess we will keep trying to see something new until I am to old. So many places, not enough years left. See what we can get done over the next 20 years, God willing. 2 more years until retirement, then the adventures start. Until then the Pacific North West is my playground.

As others have mentioned just keeping a good coat of wax on the gelcoat and using warm water and a mild carwash soap keeps our Ollie looking great. And yes plenty of elbow grease. 👍🏻 Patriot

It's Setting #28 on our Xantrex. Set it to the highest amps your source will allow (15 if it's a standard household outlet with nothing else on the circuit). I actually have ours set for 5 when we're at home because our house is old and that outside outlet shares its circuit with several other loads. With everything in the trailer turned off and the solar panels on, 5 amps has been adequate to keep the batteries charged so far, even with the batteries' internal heaters running at night. (If that changes in colder weather, we'll have a dedicated outlet installed.) (And, yes, a bulk charge for lithiums can overload a 15 amp circuit if the Xantrex is left at the factory setting of 25 amps.)

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Some profiles are different, and don't have "account settings" left click on your avatar left click on "Edit Profile" Scroll to "Signature" and make your changes left click on "save"

Are you coming to the rally next May?

left click on your avatar left click on "account settings" on the right side of the next screen - left click on "signature" left click on "save" Bill

Hi all. I’m new to the site and was also having difficulty adding my TV and Oliver trailer info into the signature page, or even finding the signature page for that matter. I was attempting to make changes using my iPhone and simply could not find the screens called out in the instruction for updating the signature page. I finally ended up using my iPad and “SURPRISE” everything appeared on my screen. So, if you’re having difficulty you might consider logging in via a different device. It sure worked for me! Jeff

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Nothing on my end. Tech said they’ had an inquiry from Florida. I was going to ping him and see if that went through.

I have not resolved the issue permanently but I have made enough adjustments that I am not too concerned about temperatures down to about 15 degrees. My LE II is hull 657 and when I am running the furnace I open the round access hatch under the pantry ((for inverter access) and that makes a huge difference. I am not sure your LE II has an access hatch under the pantry like mine. I also modified the hot air supply vent under the sink/microwave by removing the movable baffle that formerly constricted airflow out of the vent. This allows much more warm air to be blown forward in the cabin and mix with other cabin air before returning to the furnace through the vent under the bed. It takes 15 seconds to remove the movable damper in the vent. It made a huge difference. I think OTT put the movable damper in to try to force more air to the bathroom but it doesn't really help in that respect and instead reduces the total supply vents in square inches to less than required by the furnace manufacturer. A recipe for short cycling. You can also open a drawer or two by an inch which will allow air to flow through the back of the drawer cabinet and down into the basement when it drops below freezing (there is a large cutout behind the drawers to allow access to the sink plumbing). Again, your LE II may be different than mine. The only permanent fix is to add return vents forward in the cabin and in the bathroom, and reduce the size of the return vent under the bed. You should read the thread below that is currently active on the forum. It has a lot of information relevant to your issue with good input and advice from many contributors to this forum. Just click on the pic below. Good luck. You have an outstanding trailer. I just wish OTT would acknowledge the issue and develop a recommended fix for customers based on input from a professional HVAC engineer. Most of us are not comfortable winging it and cutting holes in our Oliver without guidance from the factory.

Thanks. I am in Denver waiting to continue on to Oregon as soon as the weather improves. My wife flew back a couple days ago as she has to be back at work on Monday. John

Thank you for sharing all of this info. No question there is a lot more involved then just snatching some one out of a ditch. If one is unsure let the professionals have at it.

Congrats on your new Ollie. Now you can enjoy making it your own! Happy Camping!

Nice!! My in-laws were from New Brunswick. 8 weeks but what an adventure that will be!!

We just finished the North East … including Nova Scotia and New Brunswick and next we hope to do Pacific North West corner by going North on PC1… coming into Oregon, Washington and up into the Canadian Rockies…. But that’s a long ways from Ohio and expect it to take eight weeks!

Empire of the Summer Moon is a phenomenal read (or listen). We now have a "tribe" of about thirty people that have read and shared the book. We enjoy discussing it when we get together. There was talk for a while about a movie being produced on it...but, I haven't heard any more traffic on that. I sure hope it gets released as a movie and it is done properly. Any book by Joseph Marshall III is a good read/listen. He is a Sicangu Lakota from the Rosebud Reservation in South Dakota. His knowledge of history, archery, and the land is remarkable. The wisdom he shares is powerful and good.

I've been charging mine (hull #709, with Xantrex Freedom Pro 3000 inverter/charger/converter unit) by adjusting the inverter setting so that it won't draw more than 14 amps (I have a few light bulbs on the same circuit so want to leave headroom for them). I think it's a different setting than John circled above - as the units are in amps, but if you check the settings on your inverter you should be able to sort out which to adjust for this purpose. Before I did this, I tripped the circuit if I plugged in with SOC low enough that the charger was in "bulk charge" mode, but it's been fine with this setting. It's easy to switch the setting from the Xantrex phone app, e.g. in the rare event I'm plugged in to a 30 amp outlet at a campground as I was back in June.

I don’t think baking soda will do anything for the smell. You are actually supposed to flush the pipes and fixtures every couple of years with a dilute acid (vinegar and water 50/50) to remove calcium deposits. If you fill the tank normally with softened water, obviously this isn’t necessary, I would do a couple of thorough water flushes and follow up with your scent free AF, or just blow the system out very well with regulated compressed air. When you are done, the p traps can be treated with common grey tank deodorant.. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Thetford-Grey-Water-Odor-Control-Rv-Camper-Holding-Tank-Treatment-24-oz-PN-15842/101776576 If that “lemony fresh” smell is also bothersome to your daughter, use a few ounces of mineral oil in each one. That won’t deodorize, but it it will act as a physical barrier to grey tank vapors, and it will also lube your dump and vent valves. John Davies Spokane WA

John, I have winterized and just have the refrigerator on auto with no gas on. The only two draws on the lithium batteries are the refrigerator and the battery heater. I am in Denver where it was 25 and sunny. The batteries are at 100% on the lithium pro package. Yesterday I was just hooked up to an extension cord and a 30>15 amp plug and the only thing it was charging was the battery. As I understand it you're spot on. The 30 amp service lets you have more things on, but you can plug into just a regular outlet and use the 30>15 amp plug. As soon as the snow stops and the roads are good, I will continue on to Oregon.

When it was time to place my order, I didn’t know anything about composting toilets. I watched a 20 minute YouTube video and then checked the block. I’ve had it for a year and love it. I don’t know how I ever lived before without it. It really is a must for living the unplugged life. I’ll never empty another black tank in my life.

It’s actually Grand Teton National Park, named after the tallest mountain in the range, Grand Teton. There is only one Grand Teton. The range of mountains there are called the Tetons. It’s one of our top 3 favorite national parks. The town of Jackson, close by in the valley of Jackson Hole, is also a fun visit. Gros Ventre campground, in the park, is a good place to camp. We haven’t done the NPs in Northern California or anything in Washington or Oregon, they are on the list as is Alaska. Mike

A long-shot but the stats above suggest to me that you may be experiencing a furnace air circulation problem in addition to any thermostat issues. I am guessing that you have the standard bed option and that you are testing your furnace with the bed made up. If this is not the case, please disregard this post as it isn't relevant to you. However, for others with the standard bed option, understanding my experience may be helpful. Your furnace is running about 66% of the time and is off only about 34% of the time. This seems like a lot of furnace on-time when it is 26 degrees outside. Off 4.04 On 9.36 Off 2.59 On 8.53 Off 5.41 On 7.42 Off 5.34 On 9.33 Off 3.49 On 7.55 Off 3.17 On 9 Off 2.23 26.27 51.19 34% 66% I experienced a similar problem with my LE II with the standard bed made up, although the outside temperature was up in the 40s. The problem was the furnace was running hard and short cycling, having trouble raising the temperature at the thermostat to merely 60 degrees. After getting out of bed, I realized that the temperature in the space under the bed was at least 85 degrees. I diagnosed the problem was the location of the single return air vent in my LE II that is located in the rear curbside corner of the trailer way back under the bed. It turns out, all of the hot air coming out of the two supply vents was being immediately sucked under the bed through the singe air return vent and back to the furnace and was not mixing with the remaining air in the cabin. Not only did this result in the rest of the trailer heating up very slowly, but the air from the furnace supply vents became very hot until the temperature over-limit switch in the furnace shut it down. Given the above stats, and assuming you have the standard floor plan and the bed is made up, it would be easy to test if you are experiencing this problem. Just rerun the test above, but remove a cushion on the front dinette and open the hatch wide. (also make sure your supply vents are angled forward so the warm air is not directed under the bed). This test condition will result in most of the return air to the furnace traveling through the open hatch and not under the bed, allowing the warm air from the furnace to mix with the cabin air (and thermostat) before returning the the furnace. If you experience a more balanced operation of the furnace on-off times resulting from this test, you have found at least part of your problem. This could actually be causing the problem with your thermostat as well. The Dometic thermostat anticipates when it needs to come on to maintain a temperature at no less than 2 degrees from the set-point. It actually remembers how fast the trailer cooled off previously and adjusts furnace restart time accordingly. If you have the air circulation problem I describe above, then the temperature around the thermostat is going to fall fast when the furnace turns off, even if the area under the bed is still a balmy 80 degrees. The thermostat "learns" that it needs to run almost constantly to maintain temperature within two degrees of the set-point at the thermostat. The clicking you hear may actually be coming from the furnace and not the air conditioner (mine was). This can happen when the furnace shuts off originally due to overheating of the heat exchanger, and the furnace igniter tries to restart the furnace before the heat exchanger has cooled sufficiently that the safety cutoff switch opens to allow the furnace to actually ignite again. This will generate a continuous, noisy clicking noise.

We've been listening to the following books on our trips: Prey series by John Sanford (gritty crime novels, up to book #6) Crazy Rich Asians by Kevin Kwan Origin by Dan Brown The Chemist by Stephanie Meyer All the Ugly and Wonderful Things by Bryn Greenwood

That is the correct way to do it. But, it’s hard to do while running down the road. 🤣🤣🤣

Standard operating procedure when winching is to place a heavy blanket or similar soft weight across the cable at its midpoint to absorb most of the energy if it should break. Synthetic winch rope is super expensive, but it doesn’t fray, kink and cut your hands, and it does NOT stretch, so it doesn’t store energy like a steel cable or an over stressed nylon snatch strap. I chose not to install a winch in this Land Cruiser, instead I carry shovel, chain saw, heavy truck chains and Maxx Trax recovery boards. And of course I have an air pump and I air down the tires if needed. If all those won’t do the job (assisted by Toyotas incredible CRAWL control), I am calling for professional assistance, by phone or by sat com. … Crawl Control on the 2020 Land Cruiser | Getting Unstuck From Sand | Self Recovery Long ago, I wouldn’t have hesitated to help a stuck motorist. Now I am inclined to just call for professional help - legal ramifications of a botched recovery are too horrible to contemplate. John Davies Spokane WA

This note addresses the ropes or straps used by many “Non-Winch” vehicle recovery systems. Basically, there are two types of vehicle recovery ropes/strap designs: One uses the power of the retrieval vehicle to pull the stuck vehicle. This is a slow steady process some call “Static Pull” or “Low Energy” recovery design. The other has the recovery vehicle moving and stretching the tow rope/strap to multiply the pull-out forces considerably. These are called kinetic energy recovery (K.E.) ropes or straps. The tow related fatality video that I sent out previously (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mb3BkeeXlIo) discussed not using our receiver hitch ball as a vehicle recovery attachment point. But in reality, ANY failure in the recovery system would likely result in flying missile(s) of various destructive energy heading either forward or backward depending where the break occurs in a K.E. based connection. The below video tests a Kinetic Energy strap that has redesigned by the OEM with a “safety strap” in an effort to control the uncontrolled energy during failure. It certainly highlights how safety clearance well away from the recovery operation is warranted. It is worth a watch to see the failure mechanics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7STkTpTjDCU If you are a professionally trained in vehicle recovery, and practice the craft on a regular basis, with all the correct equipment and safety gear…. then you would want to have the proper equipment as indicated in the above two videos. This would include both static pull and K.E. gear. I was strongly biased to purchasing a K.E. style system due to their effectiveness. However, after watching the above two video’s, I changed my mind for many reasons. After many hours of research and soul searching, now I am following Frank C.’s lead in preparing for “minor emergency towing situations”. To that which he posted, I added two soft Shackles to facilitate connection at the stuck vehicle end without creating a heavy missile. I also went with a 30’ tow strap to allow for more options. To be clear, this is a static/low energy set-up and will only be used as such. The Rhino gear I chose is on-sale (Pre Thanksgiving 2022) at the Rhino web site. The sale cost plus free shipping and a Muddy10 (10%) discount is less costly than Amazon Prime at this time. I am interested in your comments and thoughts. Mahalo, GJ Rhino Kit: 30' Tow Strap, Hitch Receiver, Shackle Kit: 7/16" Synthetic Soft Shackles (2 Pack)

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In the down position, It would put the mounting screws in more sheer. With it up, the TV is resting on the mount. That should take off most of the stress of travels. So my pea-brain says it should be up on rough travels. That said Thanks Seph and Dud B for the oops. If my mount looked like the below, I would consider adding an aluminum plate between the TV and the rack to stiffen up the TV side of things.

Congratulations on your new delivery! I look forward to your travels and hope that you enjoy it as much as you'd hoped. 140 days left for us! Safe travels, Steve

All good choices. However, I found that even though it does a good job (when applied correctly), Rejex is harder to deal with as compared to similar products - like the products from DuraGloss. After a couple of years of using the Rejex/DuraGloss formulations I have simply returned to using Meguiars Premium Marine Wax (Like This). Bill

I'd be a bit careful using the "Citrol" product since most degreasers are not all that kind to a good wax job. Bill

Thanks very much for your message. I have always highly regarded your comments as valuable as you are long-time owners. We look forward to getting to know all the systems. So far, it's exceeded my expectations. John and Debbie

Hopefully you meant to say "terrific"?😊

@MattnanThey are really nice trucks, very comfortable inside. You'll love the diesel. Have you picked out a truck camper yet? Some really nice ones out their. I like Northern Lites, and also the Big Foots. The Lances are really nice as well. Here's a Youtube channel I've followed over the years. Many others to choose from of course, both brands and channels to follow. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdhqT4M-3uI

I just ordered a2023 F350 swd Lariat long bed with a 6.7 diesel. It looks like the same color red as yours. My Tundra is 15 years years old and still in great shape. All we have ever done is regular maintenance, tires, brakes, batteries and fluid changes. We purchased an Elite II in October of 2019 with the plan of doing a couple of longer trips over the winter months to get away from Maine cold winter weather. Our plan was to do those trips and sell the Ollie. We completed the 2nd big trip of 4 months last spring. We quickly sold the trailer in the spring. The Ollie was great and trouble free. However we decided we miss our camping adventures so we decided we wanted to try truck camper thus the HD truck order. Hopefully it will arrive by spring. If not for truck camping we would just keep the Tundra. Good luck with your Ollie and enjoy your adventures. It was terrified for us.

My go to gear: Microfiber towels, two buckets, Meguires 54 Gel Wash and an adjustable flow-thru brush. Presoak while washing a side, return, wash side, return, wash back, return to the front and the bugs pretty much hose off. Not a lot of elbow grease needed, except on me the next day as a liniment.

I think using Spray 9 on vehicles is a VERY bad idea. I have no personal experience but I found a thread about it. “It will strip anything he has for protection on the paint. It has a PH of around 13.5 and will melt tree sap. It is a good grease remover that does clean, and sanitize, a lot of surfaces. I use it around the house quite a bit because of it's germ, virus, odor and mold etc. killing effect. It is a very versatile product. He is cleaning his paint for sure but is leaving it with no sacrificial layer and open to attack from the elements.” https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101-a/71894-spray-nine.html There are a lot of products that are effective, but some are really hard on your finish, for example Dawn dishwashing liquid. I will use it to intentionally strip off wax. Most detailing sprays contain carnauba wax, I use Griots Speed Shine which does not have any, so it is safe for use with a clay bar prior to applying Rejex (which must be applied to a WAX FREE base). It isn’t a super effective cleanser by itself, but it is completely harmless to your paint or gelcoat.. Always start with a mild cleaning product, then progress up to the more harsh ones if necessary. Leave the Spray 9 for crime scene cleanup….😬 John Davies Spokane WA

Any idea of what that stuff does to your wax job? Bill

Your first big decision will be your tow vehicle (TV) and it will determine whether you have to make a choice between the Elite and the Elite II. Ideally, the plan should be to choose the trailer model you want and then buy a TV that will serve as the best. There have been literally thousands of words written about this, both here and on other forums. I have gone through five different TV's in the past 15 years towing both an Elite and then an Elite II. Personally, for a comfortable towing experience, I would consider the very minimum TV for the Elite to have a towing capacity of at least 7500 pounds, preferably more. For the Elite II, 10,000 pounds or greater, diesel rather than gas and with any TV the highest payload I could get. If you make the correct TV choice now, on the front end, you will save yourself enough money to fuel anything you buy for the next decade. The cost of a wrong choice now will easily add up to equal another fully optioned Oliver EII over the same time period in TV replacement costs. Choose wisely.

Agree with John - soaked, wet bugs come off a lot easier. I usually give our Ollie a hand wash in the driveway after a trip. I soak the bugs with water/carwash soap solution then wash the whole trailer leaving the bug-covered front for last. While washing and rinsing, I will hit the bugs with a stream of water and more soap from the soft car wash brush I use. Finally, use the soft brush or microfiber cloth and they come off pretty easy after soaking. Keeping the front polished with a good coat of wax twice a year helps too.

A hose, a bucket of water with car wash soap, a soft carwash brush, and microfiber cloths. And, topgun2's brand if elbow grease. Good microfiber cloths actually make pretty quick work of bugs, without a lot of work. (Our trailer is waxed twice a year. Prevention is the best policy, imo.)

The payload is OK, I think it is over well over 800 pounds. I haven’t found that darned payload sticker yet. And the salesman assured me it had the Tow Package, but I can’t find the receiver! I admit that I did have a really hard time understanding him… but Google Translate was really helpful! .😬 I really hope this truck will work, if not can I modify it? Maybe 2000 pound airbags? (Those will increase my payload to 2800, correct?) I already placed an order for a new Ollie LE2 with all the options! BTW, I will be primarily boondocking in the Colorado High country, and I also hope to drive to the Arctic Circle... so I am also looking for an in-bed fuel tank, not too big, maybe 100 gallons. So far I haven’t found one. Please help. Thanks in advance! https://www.hotcars.com/chinas-svh-tundar-blatantly-ripping-off-the-tundra-pickup-may-not-sit-well-with-toyota/ John Davies Spokane WA

Maybe I should have watched this video first before I made my comment, it's a fake Tundra. trainman

No, I’ve read through that one before. The one I saw was just a couple of days ago, but I can’t find it. Thanks anyway Maybe it was over on the Facebook group. I got banned over there yesterday, so I can’t look. 🤷

Hello John, I'm starting in Washington state, going thru Oregon, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, Kansas, Missouri and into Tennessee. Around 5,000miles to get there. Coming back thru Arkansas, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, Oregon and back home to Redmond, Washington. It's a long haul in the winter time.