Leaderboard

Brian, I just replaced two touch lights - the one over the cooktop and the one over the street side bed. They would only come on partially (not very bright at all) and weren't helpful. I ordered enough replacements for all of the touch lights. When I placed this order with Oliver, Jason did tell me that whenever I turn the master switch on, any lights that have been replaced will come on automatically which they now do. The others do not come on automatically. This new behavior is not a big deal to me. Just as a heads up, I think tapping the light "hard" causes them to fail quicker. A very very light touch is the better way to turn these on. As Dave mentions above, there is a small, sensitive spring that activates the light and it doesn't like to be touched too hard.

I got this for my wife for the house, now that we have all hard laminate floors. She says she loves it and plans to take it in the Ollie when we go camping. I have a lot of Craftsman V20 power tools so the batteries are interchangeable if she needs a fresh one in mid cleaning.

I believe that Oliver recommends that the Xantrex LBCO (Low Battery Cutoff) to be set to 12.1V for systems such as mine that have the Lithionics battery system. My system suffers from a significant resistance in the high current DC line between the battery and the Xantrex whereby the voltage that the Xantrex sees at it's input terminals is less than the actual voltage seen at the battery terminals which is a problem. The result being that the Xantrex reaches it's LBCO and shuts down prematurely ( because it sees a lower voltage than what's actually at the battery terminals). In a perfect theoretical world there would be zero resistance between the battery and the Xantrex and the voltage at the Xantrex input would be exactly the same as what's measured at the battery terminals, however in the real world there will be some resistance and voltage drop but the system should be designed such that the resistance is as low as possible. To achieve this all the components have to be selected for the lowest resistance possible which includes selecting the proper gauge cables, low resistance circuit breaker, proper grounding, and properly assembled contact surfaces. Given that the Lithionics battery has an internal battery monitor that sets it's "Never Die" voltage (the voltage at which the battery shuts itself down to prevent destructive discharge) at 12.0 V it makes sense that the Xantrex LBCO is set to 12.1V however by doing so it is extremely important to keep the resistance between the battery and the Xantrex as low as possible. It is possible to lower the Xantrex LBCO setting to something lower than the recommended 12.1V since the Xantrex sees a lower voltage than what actually exists at the battery terminals, doing this will allow the Xantrex to operate at higher loads for a longer time , however I do not recommend doing this because it masks the real problem which is an accumulated resistance in the high current DC supply line from the battery to the Xantrex.

Correct. Oliver installs an automatic transfer switch when the extra 30 amp port is ordered as an option. For any DIYers thinking of adding the extra 30 amp inlet port themselves, there absolutely must be a transfer switch installed to prevent multiple simultaneous external AC power connections.

Here is a fairly straight forward article on the Honda 2200 and some additional info on soft starts. https://www.softstartrv.com/will-a-honda-eu2200-run-with-an-ac-soft-start/ Enjoy the read! Patriot🇺🇸

I have the electronic door keypad with remote fob, the awning remote control, the MaxAir fan remote, and also a TireTraker TPMS system (installed after delivery) and so far no problems that I’ve noted.

I see you have a 2019 LE II. Oliver only offered flooded/AGM batteries and the 45 amp converter/charger in 2019. Do you still have the flooded batteries with the 45 amp converter charger? If so, then anything larger than the little Honda EU1000i would be overkill for battery charging. A 45 amp converter charger will only be able to charge your batteries at a maximum rate of about 650 watts (45 amps charging current * 14.5 volt maximum charging voltage) regardless of how large your generator is. Assuming 10 percent losses in the conversion from 120 volts from the generator to the 14.5 volt charge current, the maximum generator size needed to charge your batteries is about 725 watts (650 watts / 0.9). If you have only two flooded batteries, then they won't even be able to accept a full 45 amp charging current. Even after adding the tri-fuel conversion kit to the EU1000i, it should still put out a continuous 800 watts when running on propane. More than enough to charge your batteries at the fastest rate possible while simultaneously running the furnace and a few lights. Any larger generator will not charge your batteries any faster (unless you convert to Lithium batteries and an inverter/charger with a higher charging current capability). If the above accurately describes the configuration of your Ollie with the original 45 watt converter/charger and flooded/AGM batteries, you may want to consider the little Honda EU1000i with the conversion kit. It is significantly lighter and much quieter than even the Honda EU 2200i. (I know because I own both). It is expensive though.

Seems like we've had our Honda EU2000i forever. Can't even tell you how many years, but a lot. I change the oil and service the air filter and it just goes and goes. Fine for occasional battery charging or even running the microwave. BTW, all the fire departments around here carry Honda portable generators.

Picked up my trailer in July 2020. The tap lights were all good. They only came on when I tapped them, whether or not I had flipped the master switch. Then, one day about a year later, they all mysteriously went dim and stayed on. I opened a ticket and service sent me new ones, including a little rivet gun. I removed the old ones and replaced with the new ones. I discovered the new ones always came on whenever I flipped the master switch. Service told me that they'd changed vendors or something and the lights they sent me were different than the ones installed. They also said that they will go on whenever the master switch is flipped, whether or not I've tapped each individual light. That's just the way the new product works. Hope this helps.

Well wouldn't you know! I get my new tires put on next Wednesday, but my local tire shop initially quoted me $261 for each Michelin Agilis, but nearly everyone online was charging $245 to $255. My local Discount Tire wanted $245. I went up to my local family shop and asked if they would at least meet me half way on the difference. Well, dang, the not only meet it, they beat it. Now only $240 per tire. Woohoo! It's good to be nice and just ask. "Winning!"

Mike Mossey and myself will be holding a demo at the Rally to address this issue.

OTT must have changed something as our touch lights don't act that way. They must be pushed on/off manually.

Makes sense to me. There are millions of vehicles on the road much smaller than both our tow vehicles and our Olivers. 18-inch tires don't work well on small vehicles, like our Subaru Outback. I, for one, am not worried that I won't be able to find good 16" tires for my Elite II in 8-10 years.

Automobile key fob’s also work at 433.92 MHz. Mossey

What’s “overkill”?

None. Mike

2021 LE 2, lithium pkg, 3000w inverter Below are screen shots of the inverter under load of the microwave running. The microwave had no issues for several minutes. The second screen shot is the inverter settings you can use as a comparison to your settings....just to make sure. Battery low cutoff can be a potential issue that will shut down the inverter before you want. Steve

From Michelin Service Site for those owners with Michelin Tires. ———////——-////——-/// A few milestones and tips: 1. Keep five years in mind After five years or more in use, your tires should be thoroughly inspected at least once per year by a professional. 2. Ten years is a maximum If the tires haven't been replaced 10 years after their date of manufacture, as a precaution, Michelin recommends replacing them with new tires. Even if they appear to be in usable condition and have not worn down to the tread wear indicator. This applies to spare tires as well.

I have the flooded lead acid battery setup (4 of the 12volt FLAs in parallel). I considered the Honda EU1000i (MSRP $1099) but it’s still very expensive, almost the same price as the EU2200i (MSRP $1399). I’d rather have the overkill 🙂, so it can be used for additional generator needs around the house, etc.

Do you turn off the Master Light switch when you leave the trailer? When that switch is off, our touch lights all go off too.

Craig, If you want to see 100+ Olivers and if you have some spare time later this month, make the drive to Lake Guntersville State Park near Huntsville AL. May 18-20 there will be a campground full of Olivers. It’s probably about 750 mile drive from Leavenworth, but you’d be able to spend several days looking and talking to owners. There’s a lodge at the park to stay at or lots of options in Huntsville. We regularly have prospective owners come to do some discovery work. Mike

The Blue Sky system works just as effectively as the Victron does. It just doesn’t have all the bells and whistles like Bluetooth and color displays. You’re not taking the whole picture into consideration. In your example your batteries must be somewhat less than fully charged therefore they were accepting a slight charge and you apparently had no appreciable load at the time so you see a small positive value going to your batteries. According to his photos, it appears his batteries are fully charged, therefore no charge going in. The negative difference in the two values is most likely a slight load that is taking away from the power coming down from the panels.

For those who are new to dry camping and wonder why folks camp without hookups let's post some pictures of places we've boondocked to give and idea of what we're talking about. This is Agguire Spring Campground outside of White Sands NP. It's a BLM campground at about 6K'. You can see WSNP about 20 miles in the distance.

The factory replied. They said the closet has a frame cross beam under the closet and putting 165-lbs in the bottom of the closet is ok. They did caution to be mindful of the additional tongue weight.

In 4 more days an early Christmas, Birthday, Anniversary…. 😳😂

10 years, no problems

Could be one - or the other - or both. Easy way to check the cable is to take a look at the end of the cable nearest the valve. Is the cable securely attached where it should be? If there is any sign of looseness, just pull the cable tight and tighten the screw holding the cable to the valve. I assume that you have done a complete and through "flush" of the tank you are having trouble with? If not, do this before you add the valve lube. Bill

Concur, GJ... Our's must be tapped to energize them - independent from the master light switch by the main hatch.

Also after 8 years, Wayfinder gets new shoes next Wednesday. Shiny new Michelins. Party to follow. My current tires would be good for a farm truck or something. They still took new, all surfaces.

Took my Oliver in this morning for new tires after 8 years +, just didn’t want the worry of something going wrong. The only place in my area that supplied the tires I wanted was Les Schwab which tends to be more expensive for what ever reason. They told me 15 & 16 inch tires will always be around for a long time to come. Abundant choices however might be a different issue.

This is an option which we added to our Oliver build sheet. Yes, it’s totally convenient. I have not seen a post where someone has added this mod. Patriot🇺🇸

I'm sure it could be. It's a standard outlet you can buy and wire it in like the street side receptacle. Receptacle Wire - 10/3 30 amp wire

We've added, Main Hatch lock/remote, LGP tank w/remote readout, TPMS, SmartShunt w/BT, and a 100Watt HAM radio - no problems noted, FYI.

Shoot, it would be closer to go to the factory 😉 Going to a rally is a great idea though, thx.

Well, taking some advice from @Geronimo John and/or @SeaDawg and making some extra leveling & clocking pieces along with non-slip material as a ground base. Now that I'm more prepared with 2x6s and X-chocks, I'll never be on a sloping campsite again. 😂 They might be able to help someone else out, someday. Heading out to Petersburg Campground this weekend. What an awesome campground. I'm lucky I got in on a weekend. This is another reason to keep a small 24" camper. Americans are going crazy with all the big rigs so they can't get in the all the sites.

"Maybe" ?????????

Received the Air Tags and removed all four speakers. It’s not difficult to do and all four are mute now.

My 3200i will be hopefully soon, I am on the www.hutchmountain.com LP conversion kit waiting list for the EU3200i. I will post up after I receive the kit and run the gen with the conversion kit. I really like the EU3000is LP conversion kit which was a fairly simple install. This gen weighs in at 130# dry and it’s a now tri fuel conversion. LP, LNG, and gasoline. Patriot🇺🇸

Once again I would like to thank @Hokieman for putting me onto this thread and everyone who participated on this thread. I had missed it when you guys are actively creating it. With my new Michelin Agilis Crossclimates going on the trailer next week, they will still be brand spanking new by the time I make it to the rally, let the inspection begin. 😉 I have doubts that I will be able to tell any difference from my original 2015 Michelin LTs, while driving. It sounds like I will be just fine staying within 45 to 55 PSI, no matter how heavy I load the trailer and maintaining 7000 lbs, unless I load up with too much good Lagar. 🙂 Many of us continue to learn from these forums. Thank you all! It's really appreciated by me.

not yet after over 7 years. Bill

Have you tried adjusting the directional vanes, and the "front vs. rear" slide switch in the bottom middle of the unit? That slide switch can divert air flow either all forward, all aft, or a combination of the two. And, the rotating directional vanes can move air flow side to side.

Honda is expensive. I have owned a lot of Honda products. All were best in class. I just want a small generator to top off the batteries as needed, like @Frank C Two things come into play for me. 1. Weight 2. Dual Fuel This is my #1 contender @ $700

The way I look at it (for both my vehicles and trailer) is that there is a mileage (wear) OR time limit on tires. The BF Goodrich’s on the Oliver had plenty of tread after 5 years and over 60K miles. Some small cracking could be seen if I looked close enough. Same on my Audi S3, the tires had lots of tread left after 5 years (but only 25K miles) but I replaced them too, not cheap. Peace of mind is more important to me than squeezing another year or so out of older tires. That’s just me, YMMV. Exactly. I don’t either. Mike

It will probably be fine as a static load, just don’t hit any potholes or washboard. Check with the factory, I bet they say no. Maybe 10 gallons sitting on an extra piece of 3/4” plywood… John Davies Spokane WaaA

There were probably 8-10 couples that went with Jim and Evon to eat that night. After it was all done, he picked up the entire bill. We all told him that he didn't need to do that, and we were able to pay for our meals, to which he said, "If it weren't for all of you sitting here tonight, I wouldn't be able to pay for your meal." Jim was a true Southern gentleman and I sure do miss him.

Don't wait to retire longer than you have to. Things can change on a dime and take time away from you. That's my best advice. As for RVing, consider renting 1 or 2 and trying the lifestyle before you commit big dollars to a new purchase. Some people find it isn't for them. Don't expect a problem-free idyllic RV lifestyle like you see on RV ads. You'll need to be flexible and handy with basic repairs on the road. Read, read, read RV forums. Good luck.

Well, it took me a bit to reply to my emergency brake pulling exercise. Man, let me tell you what, that pin was in there tight. It took quite a bit muscle to get it to pull out of the box. From the signs of it, the pin has never been pulled before today. I inspected the box, pin, and pin cable for any signs of wear and tear. Everything looks good. I took pictures of my battery voltage/amps before and after pulling the ping. Looks like with the brakes activated they're pulling -10.7 amps. Also, and I'm sure it's in these forums somewhere, can someone, who still has a Blue Sky ProRemote Solar/Charger remind me what the difference is, or the relationship is between the INPUT -vs- CHG OUT is? (also pictures below). I can't find that info anywhere on the Internet or any of the old BlueSky videos. Thanks, Chris

Sure wish I could spell brake and not break. LOL

I check mine a couple times a year, anytime I have the trailer jacked up with the wheels off the ground, for doing bearing maintenance and suspension greasing. And the mechanic checks it as well during the annual Pennsylvania state safety inspection required on trailers here in Pennsylvania. I think the official recommendation is to test it before every trip, but I doubt most owners actually do that. It is an easy test though. Just pull the cable until the black plastic pin comes out of the breakaway switch. That activates the emergency brakes. At that point you should not be able to spin the wheels. After you test them, just make sure you put the plastic pin back in place correctly, otherwise the electric brakes will drain the trailer batteries. Once the pin is reinserted, that shuts off power to the emergency brake circuit and the tires should spin freely.

That’s cold! I had to put another log in my stove after looking at your picture. We winter camp and have been out in 20 deg. with Lite snow with no problems. It’s the wind at those temp that makes it bad. Seems like the older we get the more we like the 3 season camping. Really enjoy being outside. I wouldn’t want to winter camp in any other camper but our Oliver. Stay warm and have some fun.