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We are up here too. had to go to Whitehorse for some repairs. Depending on how things go we either adjust routes or head home. We will know more in a couple of days.

I barely had time to grab my phone. Little guy wandered across the driveway, in the distance. Wnc. Fairly skinny, and young. Likely recently separated from momma.

Can’t help you with your leak, but if you paste “site:olivertraveltrailers.com forum propane leak” without the quotes into Google search you will have better results than searching the Oliver forum.

Made it to Denali NP and Riley Creek CG. Happy surprise at out AT&T connection speed in the campsite B77. Two site sizes here when reserving. A - sites for longer trailers up to 40’ B -sites for <30’ and many double width so truck and trailer are side by side. Really wide site and quite deep beyond rage rear curb stops. Setup the clam on the tent pad.

I hope your recovery goes swiftly, and well.

Visited SV many times while in the USAF and Northrop Grumman working special projects. I like it there but I prefer Tucson (south, near Davis-Monthan AFB). Brian

@John E Davies - We used a black Sharpie to mark the position of the Bull Dog before removing it from the aluminum box beam tongue: The insert sleeves were in good shape. There was slight damage on the edge of the aluminum beam above the rear hole from the Bull Dog rotating up and down, as well as wallowing of the front hole on the Bull Dog itself: We clean-up all the associated parts and re-assembled following John's suggestion using the jack-stand to fix the Bull Dog correctly in position prior to applying torque to the 3/4" locknuts: You can see the Bull Dog is now about 3/16" higher than its position before removing it - due to the wallowing out of the front holes (which may have been caused either by years of towing while under-torqued or from original drilling at the OTT factory): We test-towed the rig on a short 25-mile run after completing the effort and the Bull Dog did not appear to have moved. We're headed to Eagle Nest, NM this Friday to escape the heat for a long weekend away - just under 500 round trip; we'll see if the "fix" holds.... knock on wood! Cheers, A & D

Ditto. I'm always suspect of the sticky trailers with the "slide-out" grills, or cleats to mount a grill, right next to the wall. Not for me. I like a bit of space from the camper. Glad you like the Blackstone. 👍

Is this to protect from rocks and mud? Yes

I also wish they'd add a non-ethanol pump at Costco. I agree, our gas savings pay for our membership. We have their credit card. The bonuses via business membership and card more than double our membership. I really like costco. Great organic products. Terrific, and happy, employees. I see (and know by name) many of the same people working in our store that were working two decades ago when we joined. That doesn't happen in very many stores, anymore.

I’m betting it was the front two leaf springs that were replaced, and those 27” long replacement springs are too long. That’s forcing the forward EZflex link up into the trailer frame, and stretching the rear leaf springs to the point that they are flattened. From the Dexter searches I found, it looks like the spring length should be ~25.25” (confusing because the one site part number has a 27). Maybe someone else can confirm the correct Dexter part.

Elk in a field along the roadside, Oct 2022, Orick CA

@SeaDawg thank you -- I decided on the Blackstone, all things considered, and after all my research, I feel sure I'll be very happy with it. Though I love cooking and do bring my own carbon steel, cast iron, Futura pressure cooker, etc, I can see advantages in simply cooking directly on a griddle much of the time. I can't wait, because it will be moving all that heat and grease splatter out of my Oliver! And part of the beauty of the Blackstone is double-duty during powerless hurricanes and other emergencies.... I also ordered the conversion kit from propanegear.com (hat tip to Oliver Owners Forum for the BEST information and links!) -- those people were very helpful and I'll have it by next week. Campstoves -- I have my favorite backpacking stove (Trangia) that I kept from my cross-country bike-camping days. For Hurricane Ian I bought fuel for it. Regards Hurricane Ian, thanks for the kind words -- I feel pretty darned lucky, actually. Many friends are still homeless, and lost everything. Many households have taken in family and friends. We must be in the same general vicinity. Thanks everyone!

Tonight’s Yard Art

Snow Foxes

Almost got this little guy with the lawn tractor today. Just a baby. Saw him hop at the last second. Was able to relocate him to a safe spot while I finished the lawn.

PS, when you encounter a part that has popped completely free like that, it usually indicates poor prep work, either the parts were not roughed up or not cleaned well enough, or both. Or perhaps a bad lot of epoxy…. So yes, fill out a service ticket so they can keep track of stuff like this and maybe take corrective action at the factory. John Davies Spokane WA

The blocks on my cover never came off, but after seeing a few owners have issues, I secured all three blocks with white pre-painted aluminum trim screws (available at any hardware store like Lowe’s, etc., but I had some in my garage parts stash from a previous house project). Drilled through from the outer surface of the cover and into the aluminum block and then threaded in the screw. With the white painted head on the screw, it’s barely noticeable on the white fiberglass.

I've checked with two marine distributors, neither had any offerings with unsimilar keys Although there are locks with better keys, they are similar, as is Southcos.

I placed my order today. https://blackstoneproducts.com/products/17-griddle-with-carrybag?_pos=1&_sid=8171ca08b&_ss=r

The best bus tour, if camping, required camping in the furthest out campground (teklanika). Limited facilities, but great camping, and great tour. That tour road is a bit scary, in a big bus, but most of our drivers (hop on/hop off) had been doing it for years. But, lots of wildlife viewing. (The drive out to the cg is quite tame, and very slow.) No private vehicles allowed, so it's just the buses. Sidebar: My cousin used to walk to work in Denali from outside Cantwell, as a kid. Her dad owned some additional property "way out there," as did one of his friends . She told me about driving the scary road home, through the upper park, with her dad, at 17. In the dark. Those blind curves! And dropoffs.!

I discovered a leak under my sink last week. Luckily a friend knew to check this area and mine was not tightened down either. I think that resolved my leak, but I need to check it more thoroughly. Right now I can't access due to mobility limitations after hip replacement.

I'm not sure I'd be comfortable lighting a flame right in front of my tanks. My Blackstone was initiated last night when I reached my destination in North Dakota. I'm very pleased with it!

I discovered that some of the Costco locations offer diesel -- yesterday Costco in Bismarck ND sold diesel for $3.29. My Costco membership is paid for in savings easily. I do wish that my local warehouse in Florida carried diesel.

At Denali, I highly recommend the End of the Road bus tour with the guide -- it was one of the highlights of my 3 weeks in Alaska (sans Oliver)...

Received a response from Jason, sounds like the cut keys are also all the same key code...... Hey Rich, I reached out regarding the lock style 9 with key, however they informed me that the keys are not unique. It is just a little nicer heavier duty key but they would all be the same key code. This is something that I have already passed up to engineering to look into as I have been wanting to have a true lock ever since we started using the lithium batteries. I know it is on the engineering list of things to research but I don’t know how quickly it will make it to the top of the list. Regards, Jason D. Essary

My LBCO is set at 12.0V, per Oliver's recommendation. And yet I still get a 1.0 to 1.1 differential between actual and Xantrex reported battery voltage, and inverter shutdown when under a 1500 watt+ load, except right after a hard reboot. After a hard reboot, the reported voltage difference is in the .03 to .06V range.

Good on you for having the parts on hand, do you maybe have links of the parts?

When I leave home for the road I always alert the Neighborhood Watch group who perform random walk-thrus of the yard and sometimes stop and have a bite to eat and rest for a while. Anyone who thinks moose are not good security only need surprise and corner a moose once.

The first photo is a fawn relaxing in the shade at South Higgins Lake State park, Michigan. Second one the squirrel decided “It’s 5 O’Clock somewhere!”

Below is a photo of a Zircon battery-operated water leak alarm under the kitchen sink in Hull # 1291. The second photo shows the drawer closed, with the water leak alarm still in place. So, the Zircon water leak alarm fits behind that bottom drawer. It will provide peace of mind when using the kitchen sink.

Ours is the same. Significantly better. I see they didn't attach the zip tie on yours either. Leaving ours off unless the plug works loose.

Another Oliver improvement. The original poster on this thread, Imelda, has this connection for the pull-down faucet in her 2020: Our Hull #1291 has a more robust connection, which should be much less likely to pull apart. See photo below. Note: If you happen to notice the drip on the side of the ABS p-trap in the photo (like I did, to my alarm), it is not a water leak. I put my finger on it. It is just excess ABS glue from when the fitting was glued together. In sum, I am pleased to find that Oliver continues to tweak, and improve, a number of things that have come to their attention through service tickets.

Oliver has improved its design to place the receptacle for the refrigerator in a dry location. In our Hull #1291, that receptacle is under the "floor" of the cabinet under the sink. See attached photos. The first photo shows the bottom of the cabinet under the sink with the plywood cover plate in place. The second photo shows the receptacle underneath that floor, with the cover plate removed. Note that in Hull #1292, there are two such cover plates: one on the floor and a second on the vertical back wall. The one on the floor allows access to the fridge receptacle. The one on the back wall allows access to the sink plumbing. These are significant design improvements, in my judgment. I applaud Oliver for theses simple, but important, changes in their manufacturing process.

We have battery-operated water leak alarms under our sinks at home. The batteries last a long time. We plan to place one under the galley sink after we pick our Elite II in November.

You could always do an old school faucet like ours, and add an old school aerator/sprayer.

Alternative solution, what about getting rid of the faucet/sprayer and just have a plain faucet. I think I'd rather loose the sprayer feature rather than lose the drawers. Another solution could be to have a "box" behind the drawers for the sprayer hose to slide in...if there's room We pick up our Elite II in a couple of weeks (quite excited) so my input is more hypothetical on this one

JD: Two thoughts back: A lighter and less expensive option would be a simple HVAC drip pan with drain fitting. Would slope it towards the drain a bit. Below is a sample for concept. Due to it's proximity to the fresh water tank, any possibility that the drain could be tied to the water tank overflow line in such a way that a tank overflow could not flow back to the drain pan? GJ

All, latest update. The saga continues. I did get a blue clip that Townesw showed in his pic but now that I have looked at it I am left wondering if the faucet I have didn't come with a blue clip. If you look at Townesw pic on the left and mine on the right they do not look like the same connectors. Mine on the left has push in clips holding it together and now I have a blue clip I am not sure if I can get it on. Also my connector looks longer. I have a neighbor that is pretty handy with plumbing that is going to take a look. Maybe the push in clips in mine were all that was intended to hold it together until they didn't. So far with the water pump the connector is holding but I am wondering if I hook up city water that has higher pressure, will it blue apart again. I have put the drawers back yet. Anyone have any thoughts? I submitted a ticket to Oliver on this issue but I need to follow up with a phone call to them and get this cleared up. Maybe I should just get duct tape and tape it together 😁 Or just not use the sink since it wasn't getting used as I didn't notice it actually had a pull down sprayer and someone pointed that out to me!

Yes. It does have a sprayer. Just shows how much time I spend at my😃Oliver kitchen sink.

I did remove the back panel under the sink and located the refrigerator plug. It does not look like any water got back there but I am pretty sure it is not GFCI plug. Anyway the latest is that I did order up a new faucet but when I pushed the sprayer hose connector back the leak was fixed. This was one of the suggestions in the previous posts that the sprayer hose line had come apart. I cancelled the new faucet and saved myself $150. See the attached pics. I believe what happened was the blue clip needed to hold the connector together was NOT installed at the factory (no blue clip could be found anywhere) and I am pretty sure if it just popped of then it would be laying under the sink area. NO where to be found. So one day the city water pressure blew it apart and started the leak. Now I need to get a blue clip to hold the connector together otherwise it going disconnect again. Anyone have any idea where I could get this blue clip? I am going to call Oliver service and see if they will send out one. I leave in 2 weeks. And I still have to deal with the water rotted panels in that area. I guess the lesson learned here is that the kitchen drawers should be pulled out and this area checked for leaks and water damage as part of routine maintenance. l

I am with John Davies on this one. Yes, travel trailers are subjected to lots of stress, bumps and jolts on the road. But if properly done at the factory, glued joints should not fail, particularly on a relatively new unit. This is not a bargain-brand trailer. Oliver sells a "Legacy" premium trailer for a premium price. Consider this statement on the Oliver website: "Our design and specifications provide superior insulation, durability, strength, and ease of maintenance. Our camping trailers are built to last a lifetime and then some. That is why we call it the LEGACY ELITE. The Oliver is built using only the highest quality materials, making it one of the longest lasting RVs on the market and can be passed down to the next generation." I, for one, am pleased that Oliver is being made aware that glued parts are falling off of relatively new units. I hope they address the underlying QC issue before mine is built for September delivery.

Yes, they do. And there is another QC inspection when the trailer is transferred from Production to Sales. Bill

That Plexus looks really super, but the price is hard to swallow - most epoxies have a relatively short shelf life, so once opened it may not last very long. The JB Weld in the big size is affordable and I have used two year old product without any issues. Plus it works very well on non plastic parts. The fuel access door on my car popped free from the hinge, I glued it back successfully, that saved me having to buy a used door and having it painted by a body shop. I am a JB Weld Fan Boy. John Davies Spokane WA

The first thing I'd do is call Service and see what they recommend. The second thing would be to use epoxy as JD recommends above. Bill

Any good 2 part epoxy, sand both parts with rough paper, clean with alcohol, glue and clamp overnight. I think the factory uses clear epoxy all over the trailer; JB Weld is better IMHO but it is visible (dark grey). I suggest that you buy the big size in case you find any other spots that need repair. https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8281-Professional-Reinforced/dp/B014OVHAOY/ref=asc_df_B014OVHAOY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312344907964&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14474563900679479226&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033787&hvtargid=pla-434928186381&psc=1 John Davies Spokane WA

Bobfirst, if your detector ONLY alarms when the propane is turned on at the bottle, it's really important to determine if you have a leak. Propane is heavier than air. It can sink into the interstitial space between the hulls. Do you own, or have access to a propane sniffer?

The Truma gas line is also accessible from outside. See image below.

Bobfirst - About the only way to shut off the alarm is to remove its fuse. This fuse can usually be found near the back side of the alarm under the dinette seat. However, remember that this alarm is there for your safety and given the symptoms you describe, it would seem imperative that you find the source of the leak. Bill