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So sad to hear Phillip is leaving Oliver. What a great asset he’s been to Oliver and all us customers. He’s helped us many times, always a pleasure to speak with. Phillip, I wish you all the best with your future endeavor. You will be missed! Happy trails and many blessings.

When I was there in August for AC and battery upgrade, they were working on a DC-DC charging solution option. Tried to convince them to prototype it on my rig, but didn’t bite, as expected.

Phil was our main contact during our purchase, a huge help with the whole process, and a great contact during our ownership since then. Best wishes on your next phase of your career.

Rich, I do not - actually, when I had this done it was because I had a leaky black tank valve since I picked up my trailer. No matter what they did to adjust the cable, it wouldn't work. I asked the service department (Jason) if he would be willing to put an electric valve in when they were changing it out. He said they were actually looking into it and they would. Turned out, there was something stuck (plastic) in the valve gate when they took it out. Looked like a manufacturer's defect. I love the electric valve and asked about the gray tank as well. There is actually not enough room where the gray valve is to install the electric version and it is right on the other side of the handle so, there is not much chance of it stretching. So, I have one of each. Only trailer in the fleet configured like this. It has never leaked since. Cheers, Brian

Yes, another kindred spirit to recognize for having a unique, but time consuming talent! I hereby bequeath you with this ceremonially appropriate T-shirt. GJ "The rabbit hole expert"

We modify a Truly can (or other narrow beverage cans, Red Bull works) by cutting off the top half of the can and placing the bottom piece over the hitch ball when not connected. Just pinch the bottom and voila - it stays in place and will aid in keeping one from soiling yourself with ball grease...

I apologize in advance for this thread highjack response. I prefer the option you and I utilized for our DC-DC system; i.e having full #4, or larger in your case) size cables for both + & - cables with the 175 amp Anderson Plug. It gives us an assured ground, and nearly the full 60 amps capability (Breaker Size at Battery) for a stronger battery assist. Otherwise we would surely be limited to 30 amps or less. GJ

I hope they are close to the same size as the touch lights. As our touch lights fail, I would love to replace them with switch-operated lights.

I learned the 2024’s will not have touch lights they will have lights that use an on off switch to operate the light per OTT service. Patriot🇺🇸

Our old dometic had a heat strip. Since the penguin ii can be purchased with a heat strip, I'd be surprised if you couldn't add one, as MAX Burner suggested. I'd open a service ticket, or check with dometic.

I wish Phil all the luck and success, but I hate to see him go. It is a great loss to all of us.

It should be simple to make a turkey out of it.

One of the last ones to post their Oliver's here on the forum never got a hit. A few days ago I spoke to him on the phone about what had transpired and advised him to list it on Facebook. I heard from him yesterday and he said he'd had a half dozen inquiries already with at least three of them very interested. I think you'll do fine selling on FB. Good Luck!

FYI: We added a heat strip in our previous camper's non-ducted Coleman Mach 8 AC unit - easy install and we loved it. Dometic Penguin II has a heat strip kit also (from Amazon) that may work for your unit - best to double check with Dometic or OTT Factory to be sure. Definitely worth examining, IMO. Our Hull #226 has a heat strip installed before we bought it and came in very handy last weekend with morning temps in the Hi 30's - Lo 40F's, FYI. We control the Dometic with a Breeze Air Touch Screen thermostat - it's 100% compatible with the furnace and AC unit, we've got it set to cycle between the two for ease of maintaining internal temps where we like it... Cheers!

Yep. Our Hull #1291 has a full-strip magnet which holds the door closed. We like it a lot.

Very interesting Brian, do you maybe have a post with this mod (quick search but couldn't find anything), and why not the grey tank as well?

I got a kick out of the little witch's hat on the Ollie logo at the top of the page. Made me smile. Guessing thanks should go to @JWalmsley for this.

If ready to move now, there’s an awesome, fully loaded Elite 2 listed on the Olivers for sale Facebook page. 2023 @ $92k, if I temper correctly. At least $10k off retail. TN location.

For our OE2 setup, our old style PD 4060 maximum output to the batteries is 780 watts (60A X 13V). But it consumes 1300 watts of generator power. So the PD 4060 is operating at only 60% efficiency (780/1300 =60%). Our Honda EU2200i is rated for 1800 continuous duty. That leaves 500 watts for anything else in the trailer. Therefore, no A/C, no coffee pot and no microwave use when charging with this set up. Due to low efficiency alone, your thoughts about using the newer PD stand alone converter has merit. Coincidently, I am currently researching a set-up for my brother's SOB trailer. So, I have taken the liberty to dig in a bit further into this new PD line to see if we can use this new inverter at 80 amps output an our 2KW class generators. For consideration, I'll evaluate the PD 80 amp converter (PD9180ALV with PD92201 Charge Wizard). Per PD Technical Services: INPUT POWER: 15 amps of shore power at 120V = 1800W OUTPUT POWER: 80 amps to Lithium's @ 13.6V = 1088W Sadly, the PD 80 amp unit efficiency is only 60.4% (1088W/1800W). But it will require 100% of a Honda EU2200 generator's max continuous output. Basically, it leaves nothing on the table for other purposes when charging. The Honda EU2200i can pull the load, but not the Predator or Yamaha from the 2K class generators. That said, having everything shut off in the OE2 to do so is not realistic. As such, if we really wanted to get that extra 20 amps, it will entail an upgrade to a 3,000W class generator. In the Honda inverter line, that would be an extra $600 to get the Honda 3200i EU generator the EU2200i. Since both I have the smaller Honda's, my path forward is to not try and drive the charge process beyond the realistic realistic output for our existing generators. For our uses, the 60A PD was the cap. And frankly a better choice likely would be the standard OEM PD 4045 unit to reduce the draw to allow power for other uses while charging (I.E. Coffee Pot! But that is covered in a much longer thread. 🙂 I suggest looking into the actual converter efficiency of other manufacturers converters. Likely you'll find some with much better efficiencies, and then it is a matter of cost vs. performance. Ditto with replacement inverters as well! My Renogy 3,000 watt inverter efficiency is also rather poor. Two lesson's I learned post installation that I should have figured out pre-purchase! Hope you find this exercise interesting. GJ

I completed the install of my signal booster. I swapped out my Tireminder TPMSAPP6 for a TST550 b/c I wanted a display that would tell me at a glance what was going on if I had a warning - I didn't want to have to fuss with my cell phone if there was a possible emergency. The signal booster works the same way on both units, and I T-Tap'd it into wires #2 & 3 on the Rear Camera switch, as per @ScubaRx's post above. I threaded the wires through the path used by my microwave plug (had to pull it out to access that path) and placed the booster in the closet above the microwave, so no need to drill new access holes. It now turns off and on with the rear camera, as hoped, and works well!! Thanks to all for your advice! Geoff

That is correct. The Truma Aventa 13.5 BTU AC requires a 3000W gen. Presently per the Truma rep I spoke with a soft start is not available. The rep also said Truma is supposedly looking at a soft start solution.

We've camped in humid 90s a few times. The Dometic A/C on our trailer quickly brings the interior into the 70s and keeps it there, even in full sun. It is loud, though.

Actually the stuff that Oliver has used for insulation has been similar to Reflectix but instead of being basically "bubble wrap" in between the foil it is a foam composite of some sort. Here are a few pictures which show how and where this is applied to the shells prior to them being joined together. Bill

So I've spent a little time researching this evening and there's clearly a product that's perfect for this project if anyone is entertaining a pvc guard to your solar panels. Formufit is an American made furniture grade PVC product line that's UV inhibited and has a much higher strength than standard PVC pluming pipe. It has a nice glossy finish that matches the fiberglass on the camper. You can get it direct from the company, Home Depot or even Amazon. For this project you would need 4 pcs 1-1/4" tube 60" long and 4 pcs 1-1/4" 90 deg. elbows. https://formufit.com/

I wasn’t clear… I was asking if doors on newer Olivers were held shut by magnets. I think @Rivernerd answered that. My old door has a latch to keep it closed. I added a magnet inside the dinette seat to keep it open. Mike

Same here, zero issues. 👍🏻

I don't know if there is any magnet(s) on the new doors or not. But, I'm assuming that the other hardware - the latch - will be similar to the latch that is on the closet door. Yes - mine operates as it should. However, particularly if the camper is a fair degree out of level, the strip of magnet at one corner or the other may not "release" at the same rate as the rest of the door. This can cause the door to vibrate as apparently VBistro is mentioning. The solution(s) to this problem is to either correct the alignment of the door or open the door more slowly or reduce the amount of magnetic attraction that is occurring. Of course, if you reduce the amount of magnetic attraction then you might be in trouble going down the road if you forget to use the latch or some other means to secure the door. Bill p.s. Mike - this only has to do with the bath door being opened and nothing to do with it being held open.

Our Head Door seems like an afterthought. It would be a nicer fit/finish with a similar styled door as the closet door, IMO.

Call NOW! Operators are standing by! 😁

Ah gotcha, was just curious because those options were on my 2023 build sheet. Thanks!

New bathroom door confirmed with Josh White.

First, I have used Michelin Defender and AT's for 90+% of all my tire purchases since 1970. After having problems with them I started researching which of the many tires would work better for us. We accumulate 94% of our miles getting from Texas to the far west to be in the mountains. Where there the roads where we fly our paragliders and hang gliders are all.... wait for it.... in the mountains and where we go I rarely travel roads that is not gravel, mud or worse. Point is, saying from your perspective using an AT for places we find ourselves every summer "is overkill for a tow vehicle period", and we buy our tires because they look pretty... just does not wash with this member's, and likely more than a few other member's reality. GJ

My brother has Ntto Grappler's on his F-150 (Nitto Ridge Grapplers) and his F-350 (Nitto Recon Grapplers). His recommendations were for me to get the Recon's for our F-150 Crew cab FX4 for towing Ollie and off roading each summer. I did and could not be happier with about 8,000 miles on them. My impression is that the Nitto line up is along these lines: Terra Grappler Almost all highway with a bit off road. Recon Grappler Still mostly highway, but insisting on manners and good off road capability Ridge Grappler is an off road tire that can tolerate on road to a point. His and my experience s that the Ridge tires do get rougher and louder as they age, but if you are full time off road that's the tire for your. About 75% of our miles are towing Ollie on and off road. The rest is fast highway and full off road without Ollie As I indicated above, the Nitto I keep a 100% fuel log on pretty much the same track out west each summer. I also found that the Recon Grapplers E-rated tires reduced our fuel economy 1.2 MPG over our previous MPG. Will have to put another few seasons on them to see how they last and age, but so far they are so much safer, durable and perform much better off road than my Michelin Defender's. Yet on road they handle and perform almost as well. All the above are great Pro's. The Cons are: reduced fuel economy, shorter life, and higher purchase cost. But the improvement is on order with that of a Houghton vs. Dometic Penguin.... Huge. GJ

Custer state park SD is a beautiful park with several campgrounds and on the highway loop to Mt Rushmore. see pix of it in our blog here: https://4-ever-hitched.com/epic-adventure-2021

I had no idea this thread was here! We love it. 😃 I was stuck in the Oliver Campers section vs. this Oliver Camping forum. Thank you @Mike and Carol When we first brought home our Oliver, just this June, everybody kept asking, "Have you gone camping yet?" There was and is a lot of work to do, and the heat of the summer was coming, but it was time to try out the Oliver on a short local trip. Since the heat of the summer was coming, I thought let's head north and camp at high elevation. We picked Kendricks Peak Wilderness Area. It's a lesser-known northern AZ mountain, as compared to say Mt Humphries of the San Francisco Peaks north of Flagstaff, or Bill Williams behind Williams AZ, the gate to the Grand Canyon. We can see ALL of these peaks from our deck at home in Prescott, so I've had my eye on Kendricks for years now (distant view, as it is the furthest north peak in this volcanic range). To get there you exit I-40 just west of Flagstaff, head north and very soon you hit washboard dirt roads. We drove another 25+ miles of dirt until we found our spot. Arizona, and I believe other western states have Forest Service (FS) road maps. When you look closely at these maps (see pic), they show dispersed camping (camping allowed, not campsites) where you see the 'dots' left or right along the side of minor roads. You need to get these FS maps and quadrant maps for where you are traveling. If you do not yet have the Avenza Maps app, get it and download every map where you will travel before you leave home. The map picture is from my phone and the GPS blue dot is where we ended up camping for the weekend.

New 17" wheels, time to mount the Dodge Ram 3rd Gen 17" brakes, with my EBC upgrade parts and reman caliper brackets, that have been sitting on my workshop bench for a while now. Had time to get one side done today. All I can say is NICE! A shout-out to the members of the Cummins Forum to make me aware of this possibility! This is a more important upgrade, living in the mountains, than tire brand choice. Looking good so far, more to come after left side and test drive...

One "final" thing to check - though unlikely: The plumbing valve under the kitchen sink area could be stuck thus letting grey tank "fumes" into the cabin. Take the kitchen drawers out and tap on the valve to make sure that it isn't stuck. Bill p.s. let us know the outcome.

If yours in the same spot as ours (under the small dinette), fumes can get trapped and linger. You could try running a fan, on exhaust, under the table before bedtime, not all night.. You could also try vacuuming the face, or cleaning the face with a damp (not wet) corner of a microfiber (not cotton) towel, and thoroughly drying it. (While you're at it, wipe down the area under the table.) Then the fan, on exhaust, for an hour or two. Do run the exhaust fan in the bathroom for night time visits. Your newish propane detector shouldn't be doing this, but, it has happened. Could be defective. If simple measures don't give relief, open a service ticket.

Why not use a "garden" hose? Even a 3/4 inch one would be a bunch easier to handle versus ANY slinky I know of. Bill

If we got ourselves into that crazy situation, I'd "probably " attach our chains to the tow,strap clip. Every situation is different. A number if years ago, we got ourselves into a sticky wicket in New Hampshire. We attached , disengagaged, and reattached several times to get a better angle, with our 4x4 dodge. I'd try that first, vs tow strap, or winch cable, or combo, imo. If you do decide on a tow strap route, please make sure the tow strap is fairly new, and rated for the job. We've broken a few, over the years, that were older. The snap back could be lethal. Got a big hole in the tailgate of our dodge ram from inadequate/aged strap, trying to haul a tree out of the road. Had anyone been in the trajectory, it could have been deadly. Everyone was in the truck. Out of the way. We are very careful about that, tow strap or winch cable. Please do the same.

We use West Marine Dri-Dek cut to fit floor. It is low and easy to lift to spray out underneath when needed. Has saved my bald head.

1/2 ton trucks can be purchased that have more than enough power and brakes to handle virtually anything that North America can throw their way without adding "all sorts of accessories". The main issue that can cause people "problems" with 1/2 ton trucks is relative to how much "stuff" can be carried on or in these trucks. Owners who can be classified as "minimalists" have no problems and owners that generally travel alone should have no problems. But, if you add another person, plus a pet, plus a fire pit, plus bikes, plus, plus, plus, etc. the carrying capacity of a 1/2 ton can soon be reached and/or exceeded. Bill

I take full blame for this. We have some more coming next ^^.

Doesn’t answer your question, but I use the TST 507 TPMS and no need for the booster.

👍

Thanks for all the advice!! Bit the bullet and bought a 2024 gmc 2500 diesel.

Here is the information that I have for for the windows: For the 3 large windows, Pelland Enterprises in Arnold, Ca. phone number: 209-795-9330 - I bought 17'. The Item code is H109-376-19 and the description says 1/2" Glass Vinyl Seal, Black sold by the foot at $5.17 a foot for a total of $87.89. For the escape window: I bought from Steele Rubber Products. Steelerubber.com The PN number is 70-3825-255 I do not remember how much I paid for it, but I think I ordered 10' . I also ordered this in black. I hope this helps someone.

I'm all about overkill, but a combination of two surge protectors (Surge/Only Portable at the pedestal and a Surge/EMS inside of your RV) will not interfere with each other, and will basically double your Joules of surge and spike voltage protection. And the inexpensive (under $100) portable Surge/Only protector on the pedestal becomes the sacrificial element that can be destroyed by a really big lightning hit in the area, or stolen by a thief looking to liberate you from your more expensive Surge/EMS protector.

Bob came to visit a few weeks ago along with his buddy - Brian the bruin.

Well we actually got our Ollie stuck in the mud this weekend. Or I guess technically we got the truck stuck trying to pull the Ollie out of the field we'd camped in. We'd picked a nice open field at Land Between the Lakes and we both knew that it was a bit risky since it was predicted to rain on Sunday morning. And per my earlier post, we also knew well that the soil at LBL is like grease when it's saturated. But the spot was at the top of a little rise and I figured that getting out we'd have the weight of the trailer in our favor. But of course to get the trailer turned around Sunday morning, I had to pull it around and off that little hill a bit, and the moment we got off of it we hit softer soil. Four low, diffs locked, all four wheels just spun. Fortunately we had our Maxtrax and a pair of bridging ladders and those worked like a charm. It was slow going, since we had to re-lay the tracks every 10 or 12 feet, but less than 20 minutes later we were back on gravel and washing off the mud. Moral of the story - you might feel like an idiot buying and carrying that stuff around, but when you need it, you need it. I highly recommend at least a set of Maxtrax in the vehicle, even if your only adventure off road is to pull ten feet off into your camping spot. Since we don't have a winch on the truck yet, had we not had the Maxtrax, our day would have involved a long hike in the rain to find a ranger or hunter to help pull us and the trailer out. Innocuous looking little camp site, isn't it? Maybe 60 feet off the gravel? Takes less than that to ruin your day.