Leaderboard

Well, not exactly. As you use the water in the tank fresh (cold) water comes into the tank. However, the water begins to heat up as it is being used. I've never actually used the 6 gallons taking a shower (or for anything else), so, I really don't know at what temp the water heater kicks back on nor how cold the water can get before all this happens. Several years ago I did a post showing a mod to the water heater where I use a "meat thermometer" to tell me when the water is at about 104 degrees. Then I simply take a shower using only hot water (i.e. I do not "mix" cold water with the hot in order to get the temp back down to a comfortable level). This saves propane by not heating the water to 140 degrees in the first place, saves water because I don't have to mix the hot with cold (wasting that water until I get the mix right), and saves me from enduring that short burst of "cold" when taking a navy shower and turning the water back on. Bill

Could be a number of different things, but it wouldn’t have anything to do with the circuit breakers or park power. The fault will be at the GFIC outlet, or one of the downstream outlets fed by it. GFIC’s are not overcurrent devices, rather they detect minute circuit imbalances where either the hot wire or neutral wire is leaking current to ground. So one of the most common problems is moisture, usually in the outdoor outlet/box. Make sure the cover seal is good and dry it off as best you can. Another common cause is improperly wired devices, so make sure everything is unplugged. If that doesn't fix it, then disconnect the "load" side of the GFIC outlet and see if it’s still tripping. If so, then replace the GFIC. If it doesn’t trip with the load disconnected, the GFIC is okay and I’d go back to the outdoor outlet and really dry it well. Good luck!

Last night was our 100th night in our 2023 Oliver Legacy Elite II “Curiosity”! While not a big deal for a lot of campers, it is a milestone for us. Thank you Oliver Travel Trailers for building us a wonderful home away from home!

My wife won't let me get a hoe.

Your working too hard 😊. We have been using eley hose quick connects for several years and they have served us well and do not leak. A quick and simple way to hook up our water hose sans pliers. https://www.eleyhosereels.com/products/garden-hose-quick-connectors?srsltid=AfmBOorhl73lbWlG-pTRQ_aHjougxYv88x-aD4DfsGjJACCyuZjoAX0t More info here -

At Spirit of the Suwannee Music Park near Live Oak Florida for the 9th Eggs ‘n S’mores Fiberglass Rally. Then bouncing northern Florida until late February and a short cruise out of Jacksonville. It’s a lot nicer than the snow at home in northern Ohio!

Given this statement, you would save money buying an Oliver with little to no solar or inverter and LA batteries. Would be good to have another DIY sort contributing on our Forum! 😂 Ours had two OEM Zamp solar panels (320W), 2KW Xantrex and newer LA batteries. Since you asked about costs, for $3300 we added 600AH Epoch LiFePO4, Victron 3KVA MP2 inverter, new buses, cooling fan, and mounting hardware. The net cost was $2700 after selling the used batteries and inverter. For another $1,300, I could add the 460AH Epoch Essentials, installed under the pantry, providing 1060AH total (or a third 300AH Epoch in the battery bay). How much is the Platinum Package? You could mount three 200W solar panels if your Oliver comes with none, or add a third if it has two. We went with adding the Renogy 400W suitcase (for 720 total with OEM rooftop panels) and Victron 30A MPPT SC, with cabling and Anderson connectors this came to $800. These prices are for parts only, DIY labor of course. And the Renogy 400W is $100 cheaper today than it was last year. Starting today on my DC-DC charger installation, adding a Victron Orion XS 50A. With 4AWG cabling and SB175 Anderson connectors and lugs it came to $525 total. This would be in addition to upgrading the alternator on your tow vehicle (TV). OTT recently advertised a sale on adding a DC-DC charger. They would supply the older less-efficient Victron 30A charger and install only the Oliver side of the system (tow vehicle cabling and installation not included), all for the sale price of $1,300, WOW! 🤣 You could also spend big bucks for the Truma A/C on a newer hull. Or replace a noisy Dometic Penguin II with an Atmos A/C with SoftStart for $1,650 shipped. The Atmos is the best A/C unit out there to run on inverter, since it runs efficiently on R32 refrigerant (10A continuous vs. 15A+). There are many mods postings on all of this, all of mine and from many other members. Like I said before, check out Modifications section or search for your keyword of interest! Best wishes in your pursuit!

Not sure where cold air is coming in, but since it is the curbside check that basement area and climb under the trailer in that area. There are 3-4 LP lines that exit the hull to the frame below (Furnace and HWH are easily visible in the rear and further up are lines for gas range and a 4th if you have a LP fridge). Not sure of your hull # but in our older hull all caulk around the LP lines had moved and there was an 1/8" to 1/4" opening around the perimeter of the drilled opening. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND you store the electric heater for a while and run the furnace. It will heat up that basement area and you will not have the condensation and cold wall between the bed and window. You must have seen my mod post on this. Now that I've done this work, closing the heating duct under the bed and adding an intake filter the furnace works great now and is much quieter. Electric heaters save money with paid hookups of course but LP is cheaper than the issues you are having and perhaps more. You mentioned Florida, where it is always humid. When we travel somewhere colder, I like to know the furnace is not only keeping us warm but the hulls, the floor, and inside the basement areas to keep the plumbing above freezing. An electric heater will only keep the cabin and upper inner shell warm.

Relying on campground supplied water pressure regulation alone has risk to the care free enjoyment of our wonderful Ollie's. But WHY? It comes down to physics. The CG water system typically are sized to accommodate the anticipated max load when built. Rarely do the owners of the CG plan for much future expansion, pipe scaling, or future site space density of users increase. So over time the site's water pressure delta between high flow and low flow periods increases. But WHY? Increased demands over time, the flow efficiency of the system decreases due to due to flow friction. More friction begets lower flow, and increased static and dynamic pressure differences. The problems start cropping up at those customers at the furthest site from their water main connection. Low flow complaints lead to the owner reducing the pressure modulation on their end to increase pressure to serve the end of line flow requirements during peak times. The Delta Pressure between low and high flows can easily be 25 PSI. So effectively to be conservative with what pressure you want your Ollie to see is your own water pressure regulator. Hence, for all of the above reasons, we do not leave city water pressure "on" to Ollie unless we are filling the fresh water tank or using the dedicated black water flush system. GJ

When we plan a destination, I have found the need to book ahead for good parts of the trip. We will be in Washington, Oregon, and California after Labor Day. State Parks in Washington have a 9 month booking window. Montana just dropped their state park booking window to 3 months. For us we want the main part of our trip booked for State and National Parks. The negatives are forking out the money so far in advance and issues if our tow vehicle has issues. You are really traveling in prime season, so you might find places booked You can always hope someone cancels. We booked State Parks in Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, and North Carolina for after the rally. Florida has a 12 month booking window for residents and 11 months for non-residents. I book as soon as the booking window opens. I spend hours planning our trips. I use Mapquest to set maximum 4-5 hour drives. I use Dyrt Pro to locate one night stops. We use Harvest Host. I enjoy the challenge. Each Oliver Owner is different and many just roll the dice, with little planning. To each his own. Good Luck.

Other than Friday and Saturday, I’ve never had any trouble booking reservations same day or day in advance, anywhere west of the Mississippi River. There are exceptions of course, but I’ve taken 6 week trips out west and paid for camping just 3 nights, between harvest hosts, ultimate c.g., rv Parky, blm etc…. My favorite campgrounds are c.o.e., they’re always on water and with the American the Beautiful pass, they’re half price.

Problem solved! The exterior receptacle is not a GFCI out, but is downstream from the one under the dinette. Unplugging the refrigerator extension cord solved the problem. We’ve had worse rain than this before, but usually plug it into the power pedestal. This campground doesn’t have a 15A outlet in the box. I use two 25’ extension cords, and the juncture was underneath the trailer. But with the rain, it was half buried in wet sand. I took it apart, and cleaned and dried it, but apparently not enough, as it tripped the GFCI outlet immediately when I plugged it back in. So for now, I’m using one Bluetti to power the fry while the other is charging inside the trailer. I’ll swap as needed until I get things dried out. Thank you for all of the help and advice!

We use CG showers to the extent possible, meaning if well maintained and clean. On our first day of camp arrival, we like to drive around for site familiarization and inspect the showers therein. Usually a choice pick is obvious, other times not so much; but a selection is made and we go with it. Oftentimes our selection is in lesser used camp areas where demand is lower and thus, no waiting! Yes. we usually have to drive a bit further, but we fold that late evening excursion into our wildlife viewing hunts.

If you do research on using the black tank for extra fresh water, you will see it isn't a good idea. The plastic for the black tank is not conducive for drinking. The chemical make-up would be unsafe. The chemical make-up will allow those chemicals to leach into the water.

We typically carry both of our bicycles on a 1UP USA Super Duty bike rack. My wife and I are avid cyclist and enjoy rails to trails or just riding around in our CG. The total weight of our rack and bikes is appprox 110#. The bikes are locked down and covered with an XXL Yardstash cover I bought on Amazon.

Our Truma Aquago water heater has worked great since new. I wouldn't go back to a tank water heater. We had that in the previous trailer. I also wouldn't try to repair it as I don't have the tools or knowledge. John

I use a Y valve on the CG shore fresh water source for my extra hose “camp hose”. The rear bumper makes a nice shelf to support my water hose. My Andersen levelers came in handy as the slab had a slight fall to the street side to allow water to run off. This was at Teton Valley Resort in Victor, Idaho last fall, we love the Tetons. And this was a really nice base camp.

The way Oliver plumbs the black tank does not lend itself to use as a spare freshwater tank. It can be used for extra grey water. Adding a freshwater tank to the truck bed has been done by a number of folks. We have a water bladder we can use,,as needed, to be carried in the truck bed.

Thanks Patriot for this reminder. I read your original post over a year ago. Expensive but if truly no leaking in your years of experience, then worth it. They’re 10% off now and I like how you can order x number of male/female fittings. That will take some counting before ordering. On my upgrade list!

Wish I'd known. We skipped the rv supershow this year. Ollie and sailing friends in town, so lots of fun with them, and weather has been less than stellar. Could have made it over today.

A/C is typically a massive draw on power. but as you say, when charged it will start (w/o soft start). How long it can run on battery is another matter. Need a lot of battery (Amp hours) to run more constantly, or a sufficient generator. My hope would be to be able to run off battery for an hour or so off battery (and a day full of sun) before going to sleep. Some A/C units will trip a 3k inverter on fully charged batteries w/o a soft start. Soft start would also allow a smaller (<3k watt) generator to get A/C fired up. Many factors in those equations, thanks for sharing your experience.

Whether the Oliver is a "true 4-season camper" depends on where you camp. For the southern USA, where Olivers are made, it can withstand all four seasons if you monitor temps carefully and take a few precautions (like pulling the outside faucet inside during cold snaps, while running the furnace 24/7). In the northwest USA, where we live and generally camp, the plumbing system is not sufficiently insulated and protected to enable camping in the "dead of winter." When overnight lows drop down to low single digits F (like this week in the central Idaho mountains), some plumbing components in a standard Oliver will freeze and break, even with the furnace running 24/7. If you plan to do that kind of camping, there are other (even more expensive!) trailers on the market designed to withstand such temps. We don't camp in the dead of winter, so our Oliver Elite II meets our needs wonderfully. Like you, I researched extensively before we opted to pay the premium for an Oliver. After 2+ years of ownership, we wouldn't trade it for anything else on the market.

For reference: Our 2022 has 340W of solar and 630Ah of lithium (I mixed that up in the earlier post). We have the 3-way fridge instead of the compressor electric and we have the Dometic A/C with soft start. We run the fridge on 12v while driving. We camp on the east coast, usually without hookups, 3 seasons, up to 3 weeks at a time. We've never come close to depleting our batteries. I don't think we've even gotten down to 50%. The lowest I recall was 63% after a week in full shade with mostly rainy weather. With normal use - coffee maker, toaster oven, lights, fan, water pump, TV, furnace, charging devices, etc. - the solar usually gets us back to 100% SOC every day. The only caveat is air conditioner use. If we wanted to run the A/C for multiple hours we'd need to use our generator. In practice, in the summer we might run it for an hour or so before bed while watching TV. That might consume 10% SOC. If it's sunny the next day the solar tops us off. We carry a 2kW Honda generator but never use it. Probably should stop lugging it around...

For anyone thinking about purchasing one of Hughes Autoformer units, you my want to wait a little longer. I had a conversation with a Hughes representative a couple of days ago and he informed me that a new Autoformer will be released within 1-3 months called the "Watchdog Power Center". It will have Bluetooth and WIFI connectivity and will be slightly larger than the current power boosting units are. If you already have an internally mounted Autoformer you will need to install a new mounting bracket for the Power Center.

First off, thank you to all the contributors here - the passion for OTT is very apparent (even contagious, perhaps), the knowledge, creativity and sound advise here on the forum is tremendous. My wife was actually the one that discovered OTT recently and I've been the researcher since. I've been hauling trailers for more than 30 years - horses, boats, etc and for the past 8 years our enclosed cargo trailer that I converted from bare bones into a toy hauler. I used to spend a lot of time traveling around the country roadracing motorcycles so I added (built out myself) insulation, windows, a toy hauler style bed in the rear that raises to the ceiling (and can convert to a couch), A/C, Maxxfan, shore power, 12v system, solar, cabinets, etc. That current rig has served us well but now being a bit later in life we're looking for a bit more luxury and aesthetics as well as something that's a true 4 season camper. We definitely prefer boondocking and so when my wife found Oliver... We've been able to see 3 now in person and it has only inspired us further. Our wishlist would include more battery, likely more solar for those batteries, a composting toilet (I prefer Ogo, wife says Nature's Head), 2 5/16 coupler (current trailer has, plan to keep that for motos) and the wife prefers Storm interior colors. However, given lead time on a new build (and today's cost), we'd like to enjoy it some still this winter, so we're now in the midst of a Nationwide search for current LEII Twin Platinum inventory. Which gets me to my questions... '24/'25 differences: anything major that's new/changed? As far as I can tell, later '24 and current '25 inventory have fiber-granite molded sinks (which we do not care for). Is that an across the board change? Or are/were stainless sinks an option? Really don't like that aesthetic and I also saw an owner here (don't recall name) who upgraded the kitchen sink and faucet (looks great btw)... assuming I could cut out the sink(s)? Albeit a pretty dusty/messy job, and replace if needed (I have found a couple that have the SS sinks, those appear to be earlier '24 builds). Owners with dogs - how has the PU Leather held up? Did Truma A/C soft start become standard in '24 and later Platinum/Lithium *Pro* builds? Anyone done a cassette toilet? That's what I did in our current trailer, but given layout of OTT, definitely limited on model/capacity going that route. I don't see pricing discussed here much, or at all really... Given this is Oliver's forum, understandable and so feel free to decline to comment, but wife keeps asking me, how much below MSRP is common? Current search is focusing on remaining '24 builds as those are being priced quite a bit lower than the '25's I'm seeing. Since we'd be converting to compost toilet, prefer new as maybe we'll be the first (?) to use blank tank for more fresh water. The DIY upgrade work doesn't give me any pause as I've already got the tools, most of the know-how and a buddy with a large shop. Could live with the Pro electrical/batteries and solar for 6-12 months - figure out exactly what we need there (if any) and I'd welcome the opportunity to become more intimate with all the systems through the process - prefer to do my own maintenance on just about everything anyway. We're excited - hopefully it all works out to bring a new Oliver home soon.

Don't forget about those "scupper holes" that are located in the bottom of our trailers. These are there to allow moisture to be "pulled out" from between the inner and outer shells. Bill

Sorry I don't have a specific answer to your question, but maybe this will help you search to be more productive. I like you find the builtin search to be lacking. I use a Google search and limit it to the forums. For example you search criteria might be as follows: site:olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/ cold air entry The site limits to whatever you want to limit your search, then just enter your search words. Hope this helps.

I really like the idea of having the hose connection "T" before the filter idea. I often need a hose sprayer, but generally have little control over flow when using one of the camp ground taps directly. I have a spare connector in my basement as shown below. Having both the lines out with their own valve would allow use of the hand hose without putting pressure or flow into Ollie. Thanks for waking up the idea! GJ

We are installing the MP 2 as we speak. Here is a photo of the mounting bracket under the streetside bunk made from aluminum and PVC that our tech made. Is is mounted horizontally on the fiberglass wall with epoxy and two s/s screws for safe-keeping through the wall. We live in the Keys so our tech specializes in wiring boats. He said 1) this is fairly simple compared to a lot of installs on sailboats he has done, and 2) that heat that is produced is also not an issue compared with other installs in engine compartments, etc. Nevertheless, we are installing a fan on the bulkhead to the basement to dissipate heat. We considered the Mulitiplus 2 bracket (https://battlebornbatteries.com/product/multiplus-ii-free-standing-mounting-bracket/) but it really won't mount well to the deck. 2018 LE2 Hull 344, LE 2.

Until the banging/thumping - out Truma has been fine too. The original water heater upgrade was largely due to a sales pitch. Though we don’t need “hot water as long as your propane lasts” the attraction to a “demand”/tankless water heater always gets a higher mark on my book. As for the tools or knowledge - if the choice is “no hot water until we can find and schedule a service stop” or fix it myself, I’ll always opt for the fix it myself option. I’m a former mechanic and an avid DIYer who has rehabbed a 150 y/o house. So unless I get into something REALLY intricate or with a lot of circuit boards, I’m on it. I can’t leave home without a cache of tools. Just the required wrenches to properly torque the lug nuts means “toolbox” to me. I even keep a hydraulic floor jack in the truck because the OEM jacks are a joke. V

I’ll look into it!

Thanks Bill. I can always count on you.

100 night - nice! Just starting to feel like home? Be safe out there. Bill

Same here, the Y valve with Eleys for an extra ‘camp hose’ is a very handy addition with many uses. There are times when I prefer not to use the rear bumper as a support for the blue water filter, so I carry a short section of PVC pipe as a ground standoff, works great. Also, the bumper protrusion on either side can be used to hang coiled excess water hose and even propane hose at the rear port, if equipped. Some pics for you and others:

One of my uses is to condition the Lithionics batteries per instructions. They need to be fully discharged and recharged at least once every six months. Using the Dometic Penguin with soft-start that I used to have, I was able to do this, but not with the Truma. Now I have to use the fridge in DC mode, which is inconvenient when the trailer is winterized and garaged. The Truma has a dehumidify mode which maximally runs the compressor, seemingly regardless of the temperature. Other than that, we run the AC at highway rest stops when we're having lunch, and occasionally for short periods when boondocking as you do. We don't necessarily have a full charge in either case.

They can go bad but very seldom. I agree, try unplugging from shore power, then reconnect the shore power and try resetting the GFCI. When this has happened to me, I have had to use a butter knife to reset the breaker as for some reason my finger was not getting the reset button in enough.

Yes spendy for sure JD. It’s one of those buy once, cry once purchases. Ha!

Nice! I think I'd need several sets!

Yep, I get it Dewdev and you live up in the land of the Nor'easter! Last time it rained down here was September? No snow yet either. Several large capacity humidifiers running throughout our home! First, get better quality switches from a marine supply store. Drill the smallest possible hole and just add a thin bead of clear silicone inside the hole. I used these cheap Amazon switches for interior mounting, where being waterproof was not a concern. They've worked reliably for our fresh water motorized ball valves.

@jd1923 Good idea. Although, I would question how waterproof those switches really are. The rubber boot does not do it for me.

Had similar issues with my Legacy1 trailer. Washboarded roads really puts these connections to the test. I had Oliver send me some extra clips which I added in addition to the OEM clips. One or two per shade as I recall. I then used thin nylon washers to shim the clips out so they were all in plane and fully engaged the groove on the back of the frame (use a straightedge). Since then, I have also started towing with all shades in the up position (both sheer and blackout pulled up). This puts the drawbars (?) at the top of the shade frame, placing a little more weight at the top of the frame and not stressing out the clips as much. So far so good. Dave

Caption for above pic? "Three old ugly guys standing in front of a great looking camper" 😂

In addition to @johnwen's comments regarding the spacing of the bracket from the window frame - My first inclination was to tighten the brackets to the frame - loose screws and bolts tend to make me believe that things should be tight - but in the case of these blinds this thinking was wrong. The "spacers" allowed for the bracket screws to be tight but (as @johnwen says) it also allowed for the bracket to be positioned correctly in order to engage the frame of the blinds properly. Another thought is that since you have already "used" the frame clips multiple times and since these clips were apparently not fully seated in the first place, it is possible that they have lost a bit of "spring" and/or have become slightly collapsed such that they no longer hold as they once did. The solution for this is either new clips (my favorite) or to try to bend the original clips back into something near the original position (do not try to do this while the clips are on the window frame). If you are going to be at the 2025 Owner's Rally let me know and I'll bring you a few new clips. Or, contact Oliver Service and they will send you a couple. Bill

Welcome from Hull #1045, Jolli Olli. Oliver doesn't customize individual trailers. Oliver does offer a composting toilet, and installing a different manufacturer is not going to happen through Oliver. I think I would live with the sink. Sleeping is about the only thing we do so the sink tank wouldn't even be on our radar to change. Solar and lithium battery upgrades above the Platinum will be on you. The fresh, gray, and black tanks go in every trailer. Some have shared their mod to pipe their composting toilet urine container to the black tank so they don't have empty multiple times in a day. One owner switched out their composting toilet to another brand and had to drive to that dealer to get things changed Not sure about when the soft start was added as standard with the Truma AC, either '24 or '25. At the Texas Oliver Rally Truma was present and they spent over 2 days adding the soft start to Owners that had the Truma AC added in '23 and '24. Keep asking away. We are all a family.

I'm not really sure of this... I have one without soft-start and Lithium Pro. I've found that when running AC, the batteries reach Low Battery Cut-Off long before the charge level reaches the NeverDie threshold. When I turn the batteries back on, they show much more charge than 10% (I've seen 50%). I suspect the start-up surge current can fool the batteries BMS into believing the charge has dropped to LBCO. At high charge levels, the batteries will start up the Truma. If I run only the Norcold fridge on DC, the batteries don't cut off early.

@Mago I would not limit your search to only 2024 and 2025 trailers, if I were you. I would expand the search to 2022 and 2023. that have been lightly used. Just check to see what options they have on them. In my opinion, @Steph and Dud B are correct regarding the amount of battery power you will need when boondocking. Even a inverter generator will likely not be necessary, but could be an option for you. Try looking at the facebook "Oliver Travel Trailers For Sale" page. There is presently a good selection of newer models for sale there. Good luck in your search.

Units with the factory installed composting toilet come with the black tank installed but not connected to anything but I wouldn't use it for fresh water, even if it was never used. The black tank material is not potable water rated like the fresh tank. OTOH, others with composting toilets have converted the black tank for either additional gray water capacity or even urine disposal. If you get the Platinum Lithium package with 640Ah of batteries I think you'll find you have plenty of power. It's actually been overkill for us.

For those not able to read the NHTSA report here's an excerpt of the timeline of events leading to the recall. All new burner units are shipped from Truma with all 8 burner tube tabs crimped. (Ours literally fell apart on the road at one point so I did a self repair of the assembly.) ******* NHTSA Recorded Chronology : 2/17/22 Truma (Steve Bayne) reported during a OEM Baseline review approximately over the scope of 300 units, 8 units (2.5%) have experienced burner issues. Two warranty units with burners coming apart were| picked up during this onsite visit for return to Germany for evaluation. 2/17/22 - 12/31/22 Additional 4 customers reported burner failures. 7/18/22 Oliver request Truma's investigation reports from two units evaluated in Germany. 11/21/22 Truma (Mark Howlett) notified Oliver Travel Trailers (Paul Cameron) Germany made a design|| change to the burner assembly February 2022. Revision included the burner assembly tabs changed from two to all eight tabs folded. Truma concluded the safety features incorporated into the system, risk and severity is low. Safety factors include a) flame recognition sensor b) burner over temp switch and c) the housing contains a thermal event. 11/28/22 Oliver modified the support for the water heater and installed water heaters with only two of the eight tabs folded. On 4-Apr-24 these two units were reported in warrany for burner bracket assembly failures. 2/8/23 - present Oliver has installed Truma water heaters with modified burner bracket assemblies with eight tabs folded, no failures for the burner assembly has been reported to date. 1/3/24 - 7/17/24 Customers with water heaters containing burner bracket assemblies with two tabs folded replaced under warranty experienced repeat burner bracket failures. 11/13/24 Oliver Travel Trailers determined to replace all Truma water heater burner assemblies with two tabs folded to the confirmed eight tabs folded retention feature. ******

There is now a recall from Oliver on this burner assembly. Effected hull numbers should be getting Oliver issued recall letters. ***** text from letter showing SN range of effective water heaters (full letter below) ***** Dear Valued Customer, This notice is sent to you in accordance with the National Highway Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Oliver Travel Trailers has decided that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in certain 2016 – 2024 Legacy Elite I and Legacy Elite II travel trailers manufactured between April 25, 2016, and February 8, 2023. WHAT IS THE DEFECT? The Truma water heater burner bracket assembly may become loose. **NOTE by Craig - The effected burner assembly tubes were not ALL crimped in place during manufacture, only the ones on each end were crimped. The TRUMA Mfg line has made a mfg line change and now ALL tubes are crimped in place. New burners for the recall will meet this standard.** EVALUATION OF THE RISK TO THE VEHICLE AND OPERATOR(S) RELATED TO THE RECALL. Legacy Elite I and Legacy Elite II equipped with a Truma water heater with a loose burner bracket assembly may allow ignition failures, wire damage, and risk of a brief flame discharge, increasing the risk of a fire. HOW DO I KNOW IF MY TRAVEL TRAILER IS PART OF THE 24V876 RECALL? 1. Find the water heater serial number located on the front cover. (see below) The water heater with serial number less than DLE60C-33096055 is nonconforming. 2. If you are unsure, call 1-888-526-3978 or email us at ottwarranty@olivertraveltrailers.com to confirm that your Truma water heater is one in the population of recalled units for Recall 24V876. WHAT IS THE REMEDY? Your Legacy Elite I or Legacy Elite II was manufactured within the affected period using this component. Your unit must be inspected to ensure the Truma water heater is not within the recall population as identified by the Truma model-serial number. The remedy will be the replacement of the water heater burner assembly, free of charge. The replacement water heater burner assembly will be sent with instructions to complete the installation by a qualified RV technician. The replacement should take approximately one-half hour to complete. Oliver Travel Trailers will cover the cost for the remedy repair. Water heater burner assemblies can be replaced at an authorized service center. WHAT IF YOU HAVE PREVIOUSLY PAID FOR REPAIRS FOR THIS PARTICULAR CONDITION? If you have already paid for a repair that is within the scope of this defect under recall, you still need to have this recall inspected and/or performed to ensure the correct parts and procedures were utilized. Additionally, you may be eligible for a refund of previously paid repairs. Refunds will only be provided for repairs performed within the scope of the defect under recall. Please send the service invoice to the following address: Oliver Travel Trailers Atten: OTT QUALITY MANAGER 609 Swan Ave. Hohenwald, TN 38462 Phone: 1-888-526-3978 Email: OTTWarranty@olivertraveltrailers.com Below is attached it the NhTSA report on the topic. RCLRPT-24V876-7998.PDF Below attached is the generic recall letter from Oliver...when mailed to you it has your VIN # inserted. RCONL-24V876-1556.pdfRCONL-24V876-1556.pdf Hope this is useful info. I'm still waiting on a reply from Oliver on when/how I can get the parts for repair.

I don't know about the noises, mine makes just a little noise. The circulation pump keeps hot water in the small reserve tank, so it's turned off to conserve power and gas in the ECO mode. Good luck, Geoff