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Greetings, All! Well D and I went over to the "dark side" and sold Casa Blanca to a great guy from near Kerrville, TX, David Knight. Please welcome aboard @Kpaladin David into the Oliver family. We're now into our next chapter of RV'ing and starting new adventures with our 2026 Brinkley I 235. It's totally "Victron'ed" out and includes 600A-Hrs of Epoch LiFePO4s and 800W of solar modules. We'll stay in touch! MAX Burner

French Glen / Steens MT petroglyphs and painted rock CG white spar / Prescott Sedona

We wanted to wish everyone here a Safe and Great Thanksgiving! Best Regards, Bill and Debbie

@taylor.coyote This picture is from below the front hatch under the street side bed of my 2017 LE2. The yellow fuse holders are for the 3 Barker jacks, 1 for each jack. There are 2 fuse holders for the front jack, 1 under the bed and 1 outside by the front jack. Good luck, Mossey

Mather campground Gand Canyon NP An amazing week to be in Grand Canyon N P. The main water supply is shut down for repairs and the whole Park is almost empty. That would be Hotels, campgrounds, parking lots and South rim drive. The park is a ghost town. We are among the few dry camping in Mather Campground (only campground open). Might be 20 campers tonight. No traffic, no lines, no people. This might be a once in lifetime event to have the greater Grand Canyon N P uncrowded and as our personal playground. Doesn't get better than this.

Cave Creek Regional Park, our 3rd visit! Site #9 is the best spot in the park! Better yet, @ChristianD will stop by soon to meet. They live only 15 min away. 😂

Over Thanksgiving week, my wife, daughter, dog and I drove out to Yosemite and Sequoia National parks. I let the dog do most of the driving 🙂 Camped at Yosemite Pines RV park, which was very nice, but a bit far from Yosemite. Made for some long morning and evening drives. Spend about 4 days there. My daughter worked from the RV one day via Starlink. That was our first experience with it and it went really good. Sequoia we stayed at Lemon Cove RV park. Decent place and much closer to the NP gates. Saw a bear on Bear Hill one morning, so we decided not to hike that area that morning. Had lunch with some deer then drove up to Kings Canyon, which was better, in our opinion, than Sequoia. All beautiful places though. The Oli towed great the entire trip and was nice to have some of the updates I had done previous to this trip. The new axels and Alcan springs felt great. The new Tosot AC/heater worked well for night time when I ran it for heat since I was plugged in to campsite power. No reason to burn through the propane while hooked to electrical. New Truma water heater worked perfect too. Overall, a great trip and no issues with the Oliver. It was also nice to have our daughter fly in from Denver and spend the week with us.

I will give Casita a little credit. They are certainly taking “little bites” out of the fiber glass travel trailer market for folks who just cannot justify 90-100k for an Oliver. Smart forward thinking with their R&D folks with a larger/longer camper and dry bath to boot. And oh gee, how interesting? Casita must be listening to their customers! 🤔 Might be just me, But I bet they sell quite a few baskets of those eggs! 😄 https://casitatraveltrailers.com/lc/

I spoke with Lew at Alcan about the differences in ride between the 4 and 5 leaf versions of the springs he has sold to Oliver owners. His response was that the 4 and 5 leaf springs have the same ride and spring rate (amount of weight required to be exerted on a spring to deflect it 1”). This makes sense as the 4 leaf versions are merely the 5 leaf with the shortest leaf removed, leaving the identical top 4 leafs in place. Since the shortest leaf doesn’t go to work until the first four leafs reach their limits this makes sense. So, my takeaway from my discussion with him is that both the 4 and 5 leaf versions of his springs have the same ride firmness when towing. The big differences are in lower unsprung weight (4leaf version has one fewer leafs) and higher load capability of the 5 leaf (due to the 5th leaf providing greater load capacity). oh, and over 20,000 miles on my 5 leaf Alcans with no issue of ride harshness or things getting jostled around (tires @50 psi and speeds not in excess of 70mph)

Monument Vally We are camped in the only open campground in Mounment Valley and there are only two other rigs tonight. We are lucking out with amazing weather and empty parks. Tonight's sunset. I generally avoid shooting classic images that have been shot by 10,000 phtotogrphers that are better than me. These are so classic, I wanted the images.,.. enjoy

I (unfortunately) have three Battle Born batteries that are now six years old. At this point considering the possibility of having to cover shipping costs basically from coast to coast and BB charging me a troubleshooting fee, I’d probably just dump these and go with a different brand. At the time I bought my batteries, BB were the gold standard in lithium batteries. Who knew! I did extensive research and chose them. So for now I’m going to watch them closely and so far I haven’t had the slightest issue with them. The other day I performed a load test with no issues with loading them to 122 amps for about 20 minutes and absolutely no heating issues at the posts. We’ll see.

I am grateful for many things but would like to take this opportunity to tell you how grateful I am for the support of all the Oliver Forum users. We were complete rookie boneheads when we purchased our Oliver but certain we had made a good purchase. The Oliver was a great purchase but a big part of the value has come by surprise by way of this forum. When you are Ignorant, you don't know how ignorant you are. With the support of forum users, we have progressed from rookies to competent Oliver users and learning everyday. This forum has provided us with knowlege to safely drag a 6,000LB projectile around the country, make educated decisions for general maintenance and upgrading our trailer. The User Forum has increased our enjoyment of our Oliver by 50%. When ask about our Oliver, I say we love it but a huge part of the value owning an Oliver is generious support from the Oliver user forum. Let us be the first to wish you the best on however you celebrate the Christmast season. Chris and Tracey

I love your math and will be using it as my sales pitch for new Nev-R-Lube axles to my wife. She'll then return the favor by letting me know what she'll be spending that saved money on!

Good for them. Each manufacturer has a different market. I'd decline, just as we declined on the smaller Casita, 17 years ago. To me, a separate shower is a waste of valuable space in a small trailer. But, for others, it isn't. The hard part for me is the cabinetry, and carpeted walls.

Happy Thanksgiving, everyone.

***Long Post*** XPLOR Hull #634 Victron 3000 watt inverter, Victron 12v DC to DC charger and Epoch lithium battery upgrade. Note: To discuss options and pricing, please contact Jordan Hall at Inverter Services, White House, Tenn. Our OEM AGM batteries were getting long in the tooth and it was time to upgrade our batteries to a complete lithium battery system on our 2020 Oliver LE2. Our good friend, and former Oliver owner Jim Posey, highly recommended we speak with Inverter Services in White House, Tennessee. I called and spoke with Service Manager Jordan Hall and discussed our needs and options. Jordan and his team at Inverter Services were excellent to work with and have a lot of experience working on Oliver travel trailers. Our tech/installer, Easton Ford, kept us updated on our install progress with photos and discussions as needed. We found Easton to be extremely detail-oriented and dialed in and focused on our project. We were originally scheduled to have this work done next March. After returning from our 54 day New England and Canada trip, I decided to call Inverter Services and ask if they had any cancellations. They did and we immediately took the cancellation. They are typically booked 6-7 months out. So we hitched op Oliver and headed to White House, Tenn to leave our Oliver with the team for 2 weeks. Important note: Inverter Services supports the RV and Marine industry in ALL things lithium battery and electronics. This is one of the most detailed and thorough, cutting-edge companies we have ever done business with. I chose Inverter Services to do this install because this is not my area of expertise and it absolutely is theirs. These guys are experts in their field and I admittedly am still in the learning process. Based on our excellent experience, we highly recommend Inverter Services in White House, Tenn if you are considering a lithium upgrade. We chose all Epoch & Victron following products for this install. (2) Epoch 300ah lithium batteries (internal heating elements) -https://www.epochbatteries.com/.../12v-300ah-heated... *Victron MultiPlus-II 3000w Inverter/charger *Victron GX 70 Touch Screen *Victron Smart Solar MPPT *Victron Orion XS DC-DC Battery Charger **We also had the RV Soft Start installed on our Truma Aventa AC. Inverter Services provides tech guidance/support/firmware updates as long as we own our Oliver. I cannot stress enough the pride this company takes in their work. As I think most would agree, Victron components are a class all their own and leaders in the Marine and RV industry. Post install, we have on board 600ah of lithium battery power, and with our extra 90W Zamp panel now configured to lithium, we have approx 410 watts of solar. This will certainly give us more options on the roads less traveled and boondocking. Still lots to learn on this new system. Now having the 12v DC -DC charger I don’t think we will see a need to carry a generator any longer. Thanks to all those on the forum who made the Lithium upgrade happen. ⚡️ The information gleaned here helped me decide the direction I wanted to take this install. ⚡️Happy Camping and Safe Travels! ⚡️ A few install pics- The Victron GX 70 touch screen fit the existing opening with no cutting or trimming of the fiberglass. Very happy with the touch screen and the Victron app. We can set the screen to time out at 5 or 10 min or longer and then go dark for sleep mode. Zamp 90W suitcase. 12v DC to DC Andersen connector. On our way home we camped at Cumberland Mountain SP in Tenn and gave our new system a shake down. It’s nice to not have to plug in. 😊

“We previously owned an Overland Trailer (which had a Max Air fan). We experienced a voltage issue so I had the Orion-Tr 12/12-9 installed to stabilize and maintain 12v power to the fan. Now I do not have to be concerned about possible spikes or a malfunctioning control board. Max Air Fans operating above 13.8v can damage the fans control board. This will prevent damage to the sensitive control board.” I also had read about this issue with the Maxxfan control board around the time I changed my batteries to lithium about four years ago. I added the Drok buck/boost circuit to run both the bath fan and the Maxxfan and suggested using the Drok circuit for anyone with lithium batteries as a safety precaution. To my knowledge all other “12 volt” appliances are designed to withstand over the typical lithium battery voltage without any issues.

Look up Moki Dugway.It's a road in UT.. the most amazing road I have driven. It climbs 1,300 feet in 3 miles, hanging off a rock face overlooking Valley of the Gods. Valley of the Gods is spectacular but an afternoon drive to the top of Moki Dugway will make a little vertigo set in. and see if you can find Ollie in the below image..

Staying in the Valley of the Gods tonight. Unlike Monument Valley you are free to camp at any pullout or road spur. We were graced with a freshly graded road and parked the trailer about 5 miles in, just outside of the canyon on the east side of the 17 mile loop. We explored farther up the road. We could have made the loop but decided the sharp dips and rougher road was more than we wanted Ollie to endure. a few images:

A follow up to my previous post. FWIW. This issue is exactly why I choose three separate batteries instead of using only one. If one fails or even two fail during a trip, I can easily switch to the remaining good one(s) in the field and not have to make a faulty quick decision in order to provide heat or to keep my compressor fridge running. Anyway something to think about when in this case choosing batteries.

Monument Valley tonight. Took quick and dirty images from Goulding campground. Will tour the loop tomorrow. Weather is still amazing,. 60 day time 30ish night and clear as a bell.. very nice but no clouds makes for boring photography. Slow / slack season and few people.. good time of year to visit. Dinosaur tracks off AZ Hy 160 on the way to monument valley..

Not minimizing the potential issue here with the BB batteries (and I have three in the Oliver) - but keep in mind the recent Truma AquaGo issue. Oliver said there was an issue (and to their credit have been dealing with it) despite the fact that Truma says there is no issue with the AquaGo except in the Oliver trailers. One "expert" saying there is an issue does not necessarily make it so. Doesn't make it not so, either. Haven't seen a recall on the transfer switches that burn up, but certainly some indication that there is a problem there, too. EDIT: As I contemplate the potential danger here, those of us that have converted to Victron components - it would be pretty easy to add temperature sensors to each battery for monitoring by the Cerbo GX with it's four temperature inputs. Probably easy to do with other brand components as well.

When I saw Will's "Sparking" demo, in my mind's eye it turned from a safety one time feature into a serious "Oh Ship" issue. If an owner has BB's, I highly recommend getting a thermal temperature gun for checking the 4/0 system. It is also very useful for checking Ollie's brakes... especially if in the mountains. GJ

DIY Solar Power by Will Prowse has been around for many years. His take it apart and inspect approach is well received. Basically a common sense approach to looking at problems. He in my opinion is not the definative expert in the detailed design elements. But he is able to communicate well and calls issues as he sees them. I know of no other technician with his experience in taking apart and then making common sense reviews of hundreds of different batteries. So, is he raising the red flat on Battleborns before at least calling Dragon Fly for comment? Yea sort of I think. Was his post raising a flag that all BB owners need and should be aware of? Yep. GJ

Just called BattleBorn and left a message for technical support. Had a BattleBorn battery in Ollie for years without issues. I have had such good performance out of BattleBorn batteries, just purchased two more 100AH batteries during the Black Friday sales event. Will see what they say and post.

Boondocking on FR 401, east of AZ-87 (Beeline Hwy Mesa to Payson), with amazing views of the Four Peaks Wilderness due east! It only took me a week to get ‘er dirty after polishing and ceramic coating, serious washboards getting here! Dirt not sticking like before though. Too much an OHV location, but as the sun sets early they’re already gone for the day! Quiet and truly majestic and should be a great night for star-gazing!

Casita did a pretty good job with this new trailer. Tank sizes, especially black tank, dry bath and large fridge are all good selling points. At about half the price of an Oliver this is going to provide some competition. I hope Oliver is working on their next trailer! Mike

And - what's "wrong" with "rat fur"? Back in the day when I was first looking at molded fiberglass, I took a look at a Casita. I was fairly impressed with the "oak" cabinet doors until I looked a bit more closely and saw that they were actually "press board" with a decal oak cover. Then I looked at the rat fur, then I looked at the frame, then I looked at the "holes" in the shell that were used to secure the "furniture inside, then I took a look at .....

My emergency tire service kit includes the following. The reason I carry these items is they take up little space and stow in an easy access location like under the back seat of the truck or in the front tongue box on the Oliver. The Milwaukee charger is mounted on the side wall of our truck bed for anytime access. With that out of the soft case, the impact socket set fits nicely inside the soft case with the light and impact wrench so everything is together. I like having a tire plug kit along because a screw or nail in the tire is the most common cause and as mentioned earlier is the easiest fix and can be done with wheel still mounted to trailer. All these items fit neatly in a small space and are invaluable for getting you safely back on the road in a tire emergency. The most important thing is to try if possible to do an emergency repair away from traffic on a hard level surface. There are other tools you can have along to do a more thorough repair, but this set of tools will get you back on the road and safely to the closest tire shop if needed. This wrench fully charged has enough charge to remove all four wheels on your truck or trailer. The batteries will stay charged for many months in storage. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-FUEL-12V-Li-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-Stubby-1-2-in-Impact-Wrench-Kit-w-2-5-0Ah-1-2-5-Ah-High-Output-Batteries-2563-22-48-11-2450/337134504 The sockets are extra deep so you won't need an extension even with a torque wrench. If needed you can remove the protective sleeve on the socket to fit the lug nut in the wheel. Three sizes to fit most automotive lug nut sizes. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C98ZHKQX?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_7&th=1 12V Milwaukee work light is indispensable in many ways and uses the same battery as the impact wrench. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRZ31ZFS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Tire plug kits come in many types and sizes. I personally like the mushroom style plugs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FK4SNRBG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Your hull #124 was built before that buss modification was added. All of the early models were fused at the jacks, just like the front jack. You should find an inline fuse in the power wire near the rear jack heads.

A friend sent me a link to a YouTube channel — it’s focused on reviewing RVs and helping RV buyers get refunds or assistance / fixes from the manufacturers when they have purchased faulty RV products. (I think she sells a book.) Apparently the Big Three manufacturers own a huge number of “brands” and she says they don’t stand behind their products. At the end of her video, she notes that there are independent companies that are not affiliated with the Big Three brands. Oliver is at the top of her mentions of good products.

I believe that there are simply way too many factors that should be considered for just about anyone to give you any kind of reasonable answer to your question. Wind, certainty of weather forecast, your own risk tolerance, how much time will you spend in the camper, is it sunny out and will you be camped in the sun, how much access will you really need to those water related items that are located towards the outer hull (i.e. outside shower, black tank flush, city and fresh water tank inputs), etc., etc.. Even though there are a number of posts right here on the Forum from owners that have experienced conditions similar to what you are anticipating, there are virtually never two that are exactly alike. For what its worth, I tend to be a bit more cautious in regards to situations like this. But, I'm from a backpacking background and many time travel alone. It is a bit easier only having to take care of one human versus two (or more). A couple of milk jugs filled with water and another one or two for drinking/cooking/bathing and I'm set. That sure beats virtually any time wasted on worrying about exactly what the temps are going to do and/or repairing damage caused by a frozen pipe. Having said this, I'd guess that you will be OK - particularly if you have the ability to make sure that some "heated" air gets to the rear drivers side and under the forward dinette seat of the Ollie. Obviously this is easy to do with the dinette seat but if someone is sleeping on the driver's side bed, it might take a bit of good positioning of a fan or small heater in order to assuage your worries. Bill

I use spray white lithium grease, then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. Lasts longer than WD-40.

In my eyes, John Davies was a pioneer in DIY efforts. I have often referred back to his wisdom and approach when doing my own. Sadly I have neither the tools, equipment or skills as this great craftsman. But I sure can gain insights on how to do things in our trailers from his efforts. Attached is a list I "Borrowed" from his posts. Saving a copy as a MS Word document lets me easily search his DIY Library. I hope it is useful to you. When you do, say a thanks to John D. It would be good Kama! Geronimo John John Davies Posts Index (April 2023 Version).docx

With all of this good info @jd1923 and the other thread on greasing the head, I decided since the Oli is down for 3 months before we take her back out, I would Pull the jack apart and grease everything in the head, tubes and drive screw. A few thing I learned/did. 1. The helical drive gear on the Curb side motor had a small amount of wear, the other two were not visible. I think that I hit the top more often since it is hard to see across the trailer specially with the mud flaps added. 2. The 3 set screws holding the head to the shaft had red thread lock. Used a heat gun to help loosened them. 3. The 2 carriage bolts holding the Rear jacks to the bracket where Stainless steel with a two way lock nut (two dimples on nut). They used so much force to putting on the nut on that it gulled the thread inside. It took 80-100 ft/pounds to get the nuts completely off and was a rear bear. I got one off by my self, but it was tough holding the carriage hold in while trying to remove the nut. I ended up getting help with the others from my son. The last nut was so hard just to hold it in, when we got the nut far enough off we used a 1/2 open end wrench on the square of the carriage head. 4. The chalk on the outside of the trailer adhered to the jack , but not the trailer. when the carriage bolts were remove, the jacks just dropped down down about 1/4" and then I just lifted it back up through the whole. I luckily didn't find any signs of water inside the trailer. 5. The three 1/4" Socket head cap screws holding the outside tube to inner assembly had Gray thread lock, they were tight to remove but doable without heat. 6. The drive screws came out easily with two 1/2" dowels. 7. The grease between the tubes was clean on the top, and dirty on bottom. All of the grease was getting hard. 8. All of the drive screws had some grease on them, two had bare minimum, and one had slightly more. The front jack had a little more grease than the rears. 9 The rear jacks I remove the motor and left it in the trailer. So I could clean and partially grease the assembly on the work bench. then finished greasing during assembly in the trailer with redline CV2 . 10. I remove the whole front (tongue) jack as a unit and did the cleaning a greasing on the work bench. The front jack was little more time consuming to clean since the power wire run up into the bottom of the case and then wires run up through the top of the case. I removed the switches and light from the plastic case top and got it out of the way so I had more room to clean and grease the case halves. 11. I did re-grease in between the tubes, just because they did at the factory. I know it may make more work for me latter. 12. I really liked butyl tape idea for sealing the tube back in the trailer . I put a little more on the tube than @jd1923 and formed a slope on the bottom side. When the tube was inserted the butyl went all the way through the hole in the trailer. I work the butyl from the top making sure it was pressed tightly to the and in the hole. I did not caulk the bottom, I used butyl added a little more to the bottom to completely seal the bottom with 3/8 per side. I am not sure how well the butyl will continue to seal on the outside, but it couldn't be any worse than the caulking job that was done at the factory. 13. I did replace the original Carriage bolts with steel, Nylock lock nut, and lock washer. 14. I used an enamel pen marker making a mark 1-1/2" from the bottom of the inside tubes for a stopping point. Instead of allowing the foot to come too far up. I started with the Rear curb side jack (12hours), then the Front jack (7hours), lastly the Rear street side jack (5 hours). I also called Baker and receive 3 gaskets for free. before starting the project. I need one for the front. the other came off easily. I also use liberal amounts of redline CV2 grease on everything. Thanks for listening

Your Progressive Dynamics converter is a circuit card located in your fuse box under the dinette seat (PD4045). Yours will not support lithium batteries, mine didn’t either. Your hull is the same year as mine. I ordered a new one, it was about $150. It has a switch for lithium batteries. It’s fairly straightforward to switch them out. If I did it you can too. While you are down there, check to make sure your main breaker didn’t flip off. Also, I would check under the bed with your Bluesky for the red circuit breaker to make sure it isn’t off. You might have another one under the dinette seat, I do. Make sure it is set. If you are hooked up to shore power and not getting 110 in the trailer I would suspect one of those breakers broke and needs to be reset (push the little flag back in to place). Hope this helps. Mike

JD is right, your numbers seem too low. This can be caused by several things. Most frequently it's low gas pressure in the burner caused by a restricted orfice jet clogged with debris. If fan runs without heat then could be the Sail Switch sticking. They can get corrosion on the pivot and need to be cleaned. If the gas sounds like it's pulsing, and you hear clicking, then it could be a failing Limit Switch. Then there is the flame sensor, looks like a thermocouple rod, they can get sooty from a poor flame. Take a look and listen while the furnace running; you should hear the gas roaring with a good steady burn. If it's weak or whistles then check the orfice. Flame should be steady and strong, not yellow. If it cycles about every minute-- with a burn then a click, then it's likely the limit switch. There are videos for all of this. I'd recommend shutting off the gas, opening the unit up from the outside, and just doing a thorough inspection and cleaning of things that you can easily access. Then you can try it again and see how it works. Stay warm and check out the Borrego Springs underground visitor center. I helped build it about a half a century ago. Cheers, Geoff

Spring rating and spring capacity together determine how the road conditions impact the load. For a given load, a higher rated suspension will have less travel than a softer one. To put this at an extreme, if we go with an infinately strong suspension, say a block of wood, an input from the road will imediately be felt in the cab. This is not what we want. On the other end of the extreme, if we have a too soft suspension, the axle will bang the frame with every input. We don't want that either. And for this reason, all the springs and shocks being used by our owners fall between the two stupid extremes above. Hence they work. The root cause of these discussions as admitted by three Dexter Tech's to me that the original OEM springs being contineously loaded were under designed. That's why so many have prematurly failed. The good news is that many of us have upgraded our springs to higher rated ones. I personally recommend this to ALL OE2 owners who still have their OEM 1750 Dexters. So for those of us who have already done so, bascally all we are really fretting about is the personal selection of different options. It is Physics that if you have a stiffer suspension, you will get less spring travel. For some that is greatly needed. But if an owner of several years has zero witness marks on their frame and axle U-bolts, then likely they just need to address the under design issue and go with a compromise spring rate. As Ronbrink mentioned above, your shocks will wear in a bit and may help some. With the upgrades you have your rig is set up for great off road service. There is only one thing I can think of to amelerate your situtation. You may want to check YOUR tire MFG Pressure/Load chart for recommended tire pressure at your actual axle loading. If you don't know that number, please hit the scales. At 55 PSI, I would wager that you are well over your tire MFG recommended pressure. I recommend 40 to 45 tops for 95% of our OE2 owners weights. GJ

Be careful with inexpensive tire repair kits. Over the years I have read several reports of the plastic handles failing, impaling the drill in the operators hand. If you've never done a repair, I would suggest practicing on a junk tire. It is a lot harder than it looks to push the drill through an E-rated tire! A battery drill makes it much easier. I've had this set from ARB for about 10 years, and fortunately have only had to use it once: https://ok4wd.com/arb-speedy-seal-tire-repair-kit-arb10000011/

With approx 11,000 miles logged on our Alcan running gear we have not had any issues with our gear moving around at all. I agree with Mike the trailer seems more planted when towing. I also run 55# tire pressure. I even leave a pair of reading glasses on a small shelf near my bunk and they stay put.

We reconfigured our OTT in the same manner and have logged over 12k miles since. Concur w/ @Mike and Carol, the rig feels solid and tracks true over various terrain conditions. @Geronimo John and I ventured over several dozens of USFS roads in rough and muddy conditions earlier this year while searching around and met @jd1923 w/o any noticeable relocation of contents inside the cabin. Rugged terrain should be transited slowly and surely, IMO. I would not have chose to transit those USFS roads without the suspension upgrades you've done to your Ollie. just my $0.02... Be safe out there...

Other than adding a device to change 120 volts to 12 volts, as far as I know you will have to put the (or at least one 12 volt battery back into the Ollie in order to get 12 volts to the water pump (or anything else that runs off 12 volts for that matter). As long as it is charged up, basically any old 12 volt battery will work for your purpose. I always have one or two 12 volt AGM batteries laying around in order to use with a small trolling motor I have. This would be more than adequate to power that water pump. Unfortunately, you are in Pittsburgh and I'm in the mountains of western North Carolina. Good luck! Bill

I carry pretty much the same roadside kit. I also carry a Dewalt 20V air compressor. GJ

Happy Turkey Day. Happy Camping. Hull #1045, Jolli Olli

No, a voltage regulator is not advised for the Starlink mini because it already operates from 12 to 48 volts DC. As was the jest of this thread, it's actually necessary to boost the voltage if using the supplied long cord in a 12 volt system due to the voltage drop. When I started this thread, I had one of the first Minis and there were no accessories or aftermarket options to allow it to work on 12 volts without either boosting the voltage, or shortening the cord. So I utilized a robust Vctron voltage booster that's wired to turn-on whenever the Mini is plugged in. I still use that system and, IMHO, it's still the best and simplist way to go. Of course, you can always use the supplied AC adapter that puts out 48 volts DC if you have an inverter, but that will suck down your battery a lot faster. These days there are more options and shorter cords if your mini is going to be mounted close by. However, it's often necessary to move the Mini further away for it to have a clear sky view, and in such case you need to boost the voltage to account for voltage drop from the longer cord. Some people use a POE injector (Power Over Ethernet) that can supply power through an ethernet cable that is plugged into the auxiliary ethernet port. Others use portable battery packs. I make snap-in re-chargeable battery packs for taking my mini to other campsites and such, but they have limited battery life. Because the Mini has a built in Router, it looses WiFi signal, and thus internet speed, the farther away it is. Mine is hopelessly slow if I use the entire cord length. So a great accessory is the Starlink Mini Router. They are inexpensive, and you won't often need it. But when you have a situation where your Mini is placed farther away for a clear sky view, then the router will save your day! See my post "The New Starlink Mii Router, for what ails you." So you will need to decide how you want to power your Mini based on how you plan to mount it and use it. Then you can make an informed decision on how to power it. Hope that helps! Geoff

I’m late to the party, but having a truck with similar abilities, I definitely have an opinion. I would never tow my Ollie with my Ranger. The F350 does a fine job. In addition to being able to tow, the ability to stop should be considered.

I'm not familiar with factory solar/lithium systems installed from Oliver and like David, still learning about electrical/electronics. We installed Battleborn Lithium battery with Renogy Solar controller that we use with up to two solar suitcases, and an onboard progressive Lithium charger. We had issues with our MaxxAir fan. It started beeping and a green light on the unit started flashing. Checked internet and found Lithium batteries can cause high voltage issues with MaxxAir fans, when we had the issues we were on shore power, the Progressive lithium charger had our 12V system at 14.4V DC. Also gave MaxxAir/Airxcel technical support a call and they confirmed lithium battery higher voltage can cause the problem we were having with the MaxxAir fan. This had me wondering if the higher lithium voltage would cause issues with other 12V components, checked with Jensen and they said our TV was tested to 16 to 17V without issues. I don't know about other 12V components on Ollie, yet. We installed a DC to DC converter (12.3V output) from Amazon, secured with Velcro. Also replaced the fan's circuit board with one from Amazon, probably unnecessary. It's working OK now. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081RG8XP5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 Found this on YouTube:

On our Hull #1291 the sprayer on the outside faucet is threaded onto the supply hose. I screw the sprayer head off the hose, then push the hose through the access hole to the inside of the hull. I then take the sprayer inside, open the driver's side rear hatch, locate the hose and thread the sprayer back onto the hose for cold weather storage.

Here are my thoughts: edited- We previously owned an Overland Trailer (which had a Max Air fan). We experienced a voltage issue so I had the Orion-Tr 12/12-9 installed to stabilize and maintain 12v power to the fan. Now I do not have to be concerned about possible spikes or a malfunctioning control board. Max Air Fans operating above 13.8v can damage the fans control board. This will prevent damage to the sensitive control board. The black plastic board material used to secure all components is called Starboard or Black HDPE and I can tell you it’s super tough and used in Marine grade applications. Inverter Services uses lots of this material during their installs. Here - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08M6DJNH4/?_ Open Source info on Max Air Fans- *** MaxxAir fans are designed for a 12 Volt DC system, operating within a voltage range of approximately 10.6–13.6V, with an optimal test voltage of 12.8V. Operating above 13.8V can damage the fan's control board and void the warranty, especially if the system is charging. To prevent issues from voltage spikes, a DC/DC voltage regulator is recommended for stable power, especially when the vehicle's charging system is active.