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Placed a $500 deposit yesterday on a white 2022 SR5 Crewcab 5.5 bed Tundra with 12/24 ETA. After break-in will start towing Ollie and start a thread about the new rig.

My take on it is this - if one thought that they used to be able to go cross-country with a lot of flexibility then in these times they simply will need to have even more flexibility. Yes, perhaps it is a different kind of flexibility but it is now more important than ever. This past summer I was fortunate enough to get a reserved site in a Yellowstone campground for 10 days. Every single day there would be sites open where people with reservations either didn't show up, cancelled at the last minute or left early. And, every single day there would be those people who simply just showed up at the right time and got one of those sites. Definitely not the way I prefer to travel but these people (for the most part) knew that they were taking a "flier" on getting a site and were prepared to move on if they were not successful - they were flexible. During this same trip I spent four days on the road driving to the West and another four days driving to the East all without a single reservation. Knowing that I might run into issues finding a place to park for the night, I had 4 or 5 different places already identified in the event my first choice was taken/full. Not once did I have to resort to even my second choice. Lucky - perhaps, but, I was prepared. We have purchased one of the most flexible campers on the market and if outfitted correctly it is capable of keeping us very comfortable is a very wide range of situations. In these times we just have to be as flexible in our planning to be able to enjoy ourselves no matter what situation we encounter. Bill

Topgun2 is spot on, a 100 w or smaller array will do the trick - pulling out the AGM's is a lot of work. RB

I’m reading two issues here - winterization and batteries. Storing in PA or VA you’ll have to winterize. Storing in CA or AZ it depends. Where in CA or AZ? Both have regions where you would need to winterize. On my trailer when I had AGMs, Blue Sky solar controller and PD 4045 converter I just left the trailer plugged into a 20a outlet for up to 3 months and the batteries stayed charged. I don’t know about the current set up with the Zamp hardware or if it even makes a difference. If it is just in storage a normal 110 outlet should be fine if the trailer is just sitting there without anything being used. I’m sure an electrical guru will chime in on this! Mike

It was a lovely fall evening at new Oliver Campground!

You could always use a small portable solar panel to charge your batteries like several owners on the Forum do (me included). Of course this depends on a number of factors - access to sun (i.e. lack of shade), secure enough place such that someone doesn't walk away with your panel, etc. I use a 25 watt panel which I think is the bare minimum that you could get away given the 4 batteries and I make sure that these batteries are fully charged before putting the Ollie into storage.

Or ---- You could simply ditch the white window molding and get the black. Once and done versus dealing with the funk and grey. Bill

Yes they are. The camping spots are very level with crushed gravel topping.

I hope it arrives on schedule, what a great Christmas present. John Davies Spokane WA

I read a recent analysis of RV production numbers vs. new RV vehicle registrations. At the start of the pandemic new registrations were matching new production: they were selling every unit they made. Then the manufacturers increased production dramatically (including Oliver). In the last several months production has consistently outstripped new registrations: the dealer lots are filling up again. (Fortunately, Oliver has a known buyer for every unit they make.) So, yes, the sales bubble appears to have burst. The big unknown is how long the new buyers will keep their RVs and use them. We're currently on our third stick built. They've all been stored outside in New England. If you get a decent one and do basic maintenance (especially roof caulking), you can expect to get about 10 years out of them. Here's my (totally non-data-based) prediction: 25% of the new buyers will tire of the lifestyle and return to their hotels within the next 3 years. An additional 15% will leave because of vehicle damage (mostly from leaks) in the next 5 years. 50% of the remainder will significantly reduce the number of days they camp per year over the next 4 years as the kids grow up and they mix in more fly/hotel trips. That leaves 30% who remain avid RVers 5 years from now. Still a decent number. If I'm right (or close), I'm hoping to see noticeably less crowded conditions in about 4 years, but there will still be more RVers than there used to be. That might end up with some advantages, too: increased short term revenues might prompt some campground expansions and improvements, some innovation in the design and manufacture of RVs and RV accessories, etc. Fingers crossed.

We tend to camp when and where there are not a lot of others with whom to compete for spots. We are mostly dry campers from Jan-Feb-March in New Mexico and Arizona with some trips in the Spring East and then back West in the Fall. Observations from Jan/Feb 2021 in NM are that we always found a place to set up camp, even though the NM State Park Campgrounds were closed. Even with Arizona park campgrounds open there were few nights where we wanted to stay at a specific State Park campground where we were turned away. At least in NM and AZ State campgrounds usually have some sort of overflow, dry camping spots available and if not, it pays to have a plan B and C in your pocket for other spots nearby. Our best tool for finding great dry camping spots is the iOverlander app. From what we have observed, those with new stickbuilt SOB trailers tend to migrate to campgrounds with full hookups and paved parking spots. In the few trips we have made East and then down to pick up our new Ollie we had no issue finding campsites even without reservations, but this was in late September. Perhaps it is the time of year and location where we travel but being flexible, having a few backup plans in pocket and being dry campers have worked well for us even during the Pandemic where State Parks were closed and tons of new people were out camping. Best wishes

For summer 2020 through 2021, camping was about it for safe travel. Or sailing. That's all changing. Imo. Airports are seeing increased passenger numbers, hotels are once again booking, resorts are filling, and I personally think a lot of campers bought in the last few years will begin to languish in sideyards, or go up for sale, as their amateur owners discover they don't love camping, and return to the more lux travel arrangements they prefer. Saw a lot of Quebec and Ontario cars on i95 yesterday, but only a few campers. 😃 Well, maybe it's just my hope, but that's my vision. We've pretty much stuck to our camping property in NC the last two years, and it's been great, but we're ready to get back on the road, next season. I do have concerns about the many sites turned over to reservations systems. We never used to make reservations, anywhere. But, many places that were all first come, first served are now reservable. I'm still optimistic for the future, however. Someday, they'll have to pry the bulldog collar out of my very cold hands...😅 Btw, there was a billboard on i75 yesterday. "Choose Joy." It was advertising a radio station, but, hey, I'm adopting it as my new personal slogan.

Here is a sampling of 2022 Tundra pricing/specs from a dealer in Tennessee.

*I definitely am a newbie here so, please be patient with my battery questions. I want to ensure we have everything in place before we pick up our Ollie and understand what the maintenance may look like moving forward. We have read the forum answers regarding batteries, but still find we have the questions that follow: Questions: -How long can the 6v AGM batteries stay in the Ollie while covered and in storage before they deplete their charge and should be recharged? - Can we alleviate pulling the batteries out and charging the batteries by having the Ollie plugged in all the time? If so, do we literally just keep it plugged in? I am assuming because we use a 30amp plug the outlet must support that as well and not just plug into a 110 outlet with an extension cord. Is this correct? - Since we have X4 6v AGM batteries I read you can put two in series and charge them as one big 12v. Does that mean we have to have two charges since we have four batteries (a charger per 12v series)? Once their charged to 100% how long are they expected to be good for before needing a new charge if they’re not in the Ollie? - If we chose not to pull the batteries and charge them while our Ollie is in storage can’t we just allow time to pull the batteries and charge them when we pull it out of storage and prior to hitting the road again? What will it do to the batteries? I’m sure they’d be dead after being in storage 6-8 months. Could we just plug into a 2200 generator and let it run while the batteries charge as another option? Thank you for your patience and advice. One day at a time, trying to learn every day. Mahalo, M&K

Since my Elite II didn't come with one of those fancy solar plugin ports, I simply took one of THESE and wired it as seen in the photo above. Then all I have to do is connect my regular wiring pigtail that is normally connected to my tow vehicle to the solar panel. Having said this and since I believe that you are getting an Oliver that has the solar port, I'd simply do what BackofBeyond recommends above. My specific brand of panel is not sold under its same name anymore. However, again as BackofBeyond mentions, there are plenty to chose from. I would not buy one bigger than 100 watts or smaller than 25 watts - the smaller = cheaper (make sure that the panel has a solar charge controller included) and also = less money lost in the event of damage or it growing feet where it walks away. Bill

If you have the solar set up you should have the external two prong port - not sure what the new units use, and any decent smaller array with a controller will do the job. Amazon has many choices. But I'm sure someone will chime in with details.

Hi All, Like the OP, our normal method of planning for a long trip, was to head in the general direction of desire, and wing it. For years (decades?) We have done multi month trips this way and had a great time. From TN to the tips of Alaska, all around the west, and in-between, we just went and had a great time. And this all changed in 2020/2021. Even with decent planning, our travels were just not as enjoyable heading into 2021. Other than some closures and new rules, Covid issues just didn't affect our travels in 2020 - we went everywhere we planned - mostly. However, to be frank, 2021 was not enjoyable - everywhere we went, even in the back areas, was just too busy". Trash everywhere, wilderness areas ripped apart for firewood, loud obnoxious people, and campgrounds - both full service and not - abused. OK - too many people..... The luster had gone - we had enough - Oliver got a new home, as we decided to do other things - which required staying closer to home for a year or so. How long will the glut last - your guess is as good as mine. When our project finishes up, I'll look around - perhaps we will hit the road a little - who knows. Until then - I wish the Oliverites good fortune. Have fun, be safe, RB

Thank you Mike for the quick response! I did some more research (learned way more about batteries then I probably need to know) and we are researching more how to winterize. We will winterize when it's being stored in VA the first year and until we can get the Oliver stored in Southern CA where it won't need to be. We are intending on pulling our 4 6v AGM batteries and charging them since we won't have access to a constant electric source when it is being stored. I don't see any other way around this since we don't want to store it uncovered, allowing the solar to charge the batteries. Mahalo, M&K

Not into off pavement stuff with our 4 wheel vehicles. The Tundra will fill the bill perfectly as a TV for Ollie and a daily driver for our needs. Still ride motorcycle off pavement a little, but mostly paved twisty riding.

On our way out West a couple of weeks ago we stopped to visit friends in Elkhart, IN. For those who don't know, the vast majority of stick built (screw and glue) travel trailers and motorhomes for the U.S. market are built here. My friend works in Quality Control (post-build inspection), covering most of the major local SOB brands (Heartland, Forest River, Thor). From our talks I gathered that the US RV market is unsustainable at Pandemic level and signs point to not only a decline in sales but also many recent Pandemic (NEW) owners exiting the flanks of ownership over the next couple of years. He told me that some of the Mega RV dealer networks he supports are already reporting a return to 2018 sales levels. Many of the new Stick-built units being sold during the Pandemic are being financed for terms of 15-20 yrs, Many of the current Stick-built units are built with a rubber membrane roof, over luan and 2x2 wood framing, held together with lots of glue and staples. Lots of staples. Many of owners of these new stick built RVs are storing their new RVs outdoors in sunny, rainy, windy and hail-prone climates. In Colorado, I see huge RV storage lots popping up along the Front Range to support storage not allowed in the nearby covenant-controlled planned housing developments For the above reasons, I do not see many of these new buyers remaining as campers for more than a few years, or at least until the damage incurred by their trailers from outdoor storage is no longer covered by warranty and outweighs the ding to their credit from walking away from another 13-18 yrs of payments. While sad for these new owners, the indicators observed point also to a decline in occupancy at campgrounds coming soon

Pretty shot! Glad you had a good stay.

Here is my take on this issue. I truly believe a huge percentage of the RV market glut of the last couple of years will be short lived and as SeaDawg mentioned a good many of those campers will be setting in RV parking lots most of the time. Heck this was already the case long before the RV glut and from what I've seen a great deal of these new "camper people" are quite inexperienced at best. Yellowstone: Even this year there were a few of their campgrounds on a FCFS (first come first serve) basis, Indian Creek and about half of Pebble Creek. Regardless the only years I've ever seen empty campgrounds in YNP was during the housing bubble years of '08 and '09. My wife and I went down there on 4th of July weekend for a day hike or two only to be blown away that more than half of the campgrounds were still not full in early afternoon. Never saw that before nor sense. Glacier: Apgar, Avalanche and parts of Two Medicine and Swiftcurent are also FCFS or mixed with RSVP's. We were only able to get out once this summer season due to some family issues, (sister in law with Alzheimers) but on my scouting trips up in this neck of the woods I was able to find open campgrounds all over SW Montana and beyond quite easily. Excellent ones at that and if not the greatest campgrounds at least close to strategic places. Granted late Sunday-Thursdays are the best time to grab one but even on weekends empty campsites existed if you knew where to look. This brings up the next suggestion. Free Roam and the Ultimate Public Campground Apps. Wouldn't be without them. Free Roam specializes in free boon docking sites and while UPC app list free but also pay sites. Most importantly they list whether these public campgrounds are RSVP's or FCFS. Back in April we took off for TX to bring sister in law back to MT and had no problem what so ever traveling through UT and NM obtaining public campsites. It didn't hurt that we had traveled to these places numerous times and knew where to go for our favorites. Keep in mind this was smack dab in the middle of Spring break for many college students. However like others here, I am concerned about the future of easy camping the way most of us have known and loved for decades. The population of the US has at least tripled over the last 30-40 years and even if only a very small portion of this increase wants to camp one doesn't have to be a CPA to figure this will put additional burden on what existing wilderness and public lands we do have. Times have changed.

Jim and Frances: I would love to have a Word version of your delivery checklist. I expect that if you post it on this thread, there will be others who will enjoy having it as well. Thanks for putting it together! Ralph Pond

Last year was a once in a lifetime event for most of Texas. We lived without power and water for 3 days at zero degrees. It rarely gets below freezing in North Central Texas (DFW area) and we might have a day or two with some ice accumulation if everything lines up just right. We camp year round. State parks for the most part are booked for weekends with more availability during the weeks and the colder months. Another option is COE parks and there are a lot of them in TX although some close for the winter months. Most are built around lakes. If you have the America the Beautiful pass camping is 1/2 price for seniors. Also Texas State Parks has an annual pass which gives you 1/2 off your second night's stay and covers your per person entry fee. Almost all of the parks have hiking and or biking trails. And there are many "resort" type campgrounds if you need all the amenities and don't mind paying for them.

As Bill mentioned there are a number of threads on this. I used XPEL paint protection in 10 mil thickness on our Ollie corners and dog house and under the street side and curb side areas. We have used XPEL p/p for over a decade on cars and trucks we have owned. It’s an excellent product. XPEL.com - David

Rex - There are a number of "reviews" of this type of protection here on the Forum. Try the "search" function in the upper right hand corner of this screen to find them. Like THIS or THIS or THIS or THIS or THIS or THIS. And the list goes on ........... Good luck. Bill

Wow -- I had no idea. This appears to show up on the windshield, but it's hard to really say. I could see the speed limit, my current speed, and there were warnings as I approached a school zone. The downside of all of this new technology (imo) is that it's all requiring those pesky little chips that are stuck somewhere 'in transit' or not yet available. I miss the days when I helped my Dad gap the plugs and change the timing belt, when it felt possible to do some of the maintenance on an engine.

Thank you -- I'm glad I find the list useful. I have not updated it, but I see that Jim and Francis provided a link to an updated list (see earlier post in this thread). As I mentioned earlier, Oliver has addressed some of the things that are on the list (still worth checking, though). New items come up on this forum on a fairly regular basis (e.g., battery support bolts), and I expect that Oliver will continue to address these newer issues as well. Again, still worth checking. My general recommendation from our experience is to become very familiar with the electrical system, especially if you opt for the Lithionics batteries. In general, I'm satisfied with the lithium batteries, but it has taken more time and effort to become comfortable with how the trailer's electrical components work as a system. An electrical schematic for the electrical system would be SO helpful.

johnwen - It is amazing how much help we have received from owners in this forum - all I did was try to merge together all the lists others had already done. My wife tells me I am missing good stuff on the Facebooks groups (Oliver Owners of America for one). I am already overloaded with my OCD list LOL and as topgun2 mentioned above - we will be having fun for sure - been having fun during the wait with all the studying and list making 😀 Your wait will be over before you know it!

Thanks to everyone on this post as well as others...Given our long wait is just about over, We took the liberty to build upon Fritz's and others great work and tried to incorporate any new issues/areas of concerns. While we know that Oliver has their own delivery checklist, going through this ourselves was a good way to "think" through all the systems. I am sure lots more can be added! Here is a link to our checklist and thanks again to all the work others did for us with their checklists! Edit: If anyone is interested in a Word version - we would be happy to provide it.

Thanks to all of you for your advice and insight. We are leaving this morning for a trip to a state park about 190 mi. away. I will stop now and then to monitor tire pressure. It is not a long journey, but probably enough to give me an indication one way or the other if 60 psi is enough. As soon as we return from our little excursion I will be shopping for a TPMS based on the advice you folks have shared with me. Thanks again!

Last season our Suburban water heater didn't always light on the first try, or even second. Once from inside I heard it light with a startlingly loud WOOF! Not good. On the second trip this season it quit working altogether. This past week I started troubleshooting and found that they aren't that hard to work on. This is what I found. I checked the gas supply by trying the stove and furnace. Both worked, so it's not a gas supply issue. Watched and listened for the gas valve to open and the igniter to cycle. I could hear at least one of the gas valves clunk open and could see the igniter try to spark. I pulled the orifice and orifice tube expecting to find a spider web or mud dauber nest like I did in a previous camper's refrigerator. All clean, so not the issue. There is a high and low temp cut off switch. Neither was tripped. I don't believe the water heater will cycle the ignition circuit if either are faulty or tripped. Mine was still trying to light, so I didn't think this was the issue. On-line reading said to suspect the coils on the gas valve. There are two side-by-side. Both need to open. They are redundant for safety. A local RV/Propane service shop gave me some used coils out of their junk box to try. Swapped out the coils. Still didn't work, coils were not the issue. Early on I should have tried lighting the gas coming out of the orifice tube with a camp butane lighter as the furnace went through its ignition cycle. Finally did. Lit just fine. This would have eliminated any issues with the gas valve, coils, orifice, and orifice tube from my trouble shooting. Learn from my mistake and don't jump ahead too fast. By now I notice a weak to non-existent spark. Early on I thought it might be weak, but now it's not even present. I now believe the spark got weaker as the ignition board warmed up during testing and cycling. All that was left in the ignition circuit to eliminate was the spark igniter and the igniter circuit board. I ordered a both spark igniter and a Dinosaur Igniter board (Model # UIB S w/spade connector) off of Amazon. Since it was the least expensive and the easiest to get at, I Installed the new spark igniter first. Still no love. Unplugged old board, plugged in the new Dinosaur board, turned on the heater switch, the water heater fired right up. The igniter board was bad. Old board wasn't hot, but was warmer than expected. One of the traces on the old board looked a little warm around one of the transistors. I'll have to look it over under a magnifying glass when I get a chance. Might be good for a spare if I can fix it. The existing cover won't fit over the new Dinosaur board. Dinosaur sells their own cover to fit their own boards. I'll put one on my shopping list for someday. The old board was held in with double stick tape. The new board is now in place with some VHB tape I had on hand. That's it. These aren't too complicated. Though I wasn't interested in scheduling an appointment, the local RV service center was booked 6 weeks out. Minnesota summers are short and I enjoy hot water in the camper. Maybe this will help someone else troubleshoot and save a trip to the service center. Ken (Safety disclaimer - Follow at your own risk. Beware of gas, high voltage from the igniter circuit, sharp edges on the water heater sheet metal, and the pointy end of the screwdriver.)

Shortly after we took delivery of Hull #634 we had 10 mil XPEL paint protection installed on the dog house, both wide front corners and all along the bottom street side and curb side areas. Essentially areas where we felt needed the most protection. Here is a photo of our installer working his magic. The standard paint protection used on most cars and trucks today is 8 mil. The 10 mil material is naturally thicker and it’s really tough material. It’s presently the thickest p/p made by XPEL. So far it’s held up great with no damage to our gelcoat. Its fairly expensive to have installed, but well worth it in our experience. We use a product called Plexus to keep it clean and polished up. Our installers business name is Sun Stoppers located in Concord NC. We have this p/p on our vehicles as well only in 8 mil. https://www.xpel.com

Dometic - we don't try hard, but we buy good companies: and turn them into poor companies. We set set the standard - as we own almost everything - the consumer is screwed - where you gonna go! When electric powered flight becomes mainstream - they will put Dometic AC's on them to simulate jet engine noise, but will only operate - sporadically, instilling unneeded fear in the passengers. Dometic. A company for all. RB Jet engine noise mechanic.

I feel confident that after I park and spend the day away hiking or site seeing my roof top panels will still be there when I return. Unless I’m in deep shade they will provide some charging during the day. I wouldn’t want to leave portable panels out while we were gone. Portables would be a good supplement. As John points out, charging while on the road is a big deal too. Mike

Johnwen, do you boondock much? Travel a lot? Camp normally with power? All these things contribute to the decision. Even if you have rooftop solar, you still need a separate controller for the suitcase solar, as the Oliver port (like those installed by virtually everyone) goes to a fused line to the batteries.

I think a portable unit is a great accessory, but ONLY if you have the rooftop array. As a stand alone charger it is really limited, because while you are towing, obviously there is no solar charging! So you might miss twelve hours of charging at up to 20 amps, until the time you arrive at camp, and THEN you have to hope you can find a clear spot for your portable unit, and the day is ending or the sun has gone behind a mountain. Your tow vehicle, as the trailer is delivered, will not do it. With a roof array, your system will always be operating, even when you fire up the inverter and microwave at a lunch stop, to keep the system as fully charged as possible. There is no shade on a highway to block them. Buy the roof panels, then if you feel they are a little lacking, buy a small portable panel, and put the controller inside the Ollie if you want to tweak that device’s performance. John Davies Spokane WA.

I've heard about this engineering department. Out of curiosity, I googled (ducked?) 'recommended suspension clearance for trailers'. The only relevant result I got was a comment from an eTrailer rep who said that they recommend 3".

Good news QM ! I am happy that you have got to the bottom of this and will soon be getting the issue corrected. I am relieved to know that my Elite will have more than a half inch suspension clearance. I will check this upon delivery to ensure lightning did not strike twice 😉.

Elite I Oliver Owners, Jason confirmed with their QC/Engineering department that the LE1 trailers should have 1.5" of upward travel. Therefore the upward travel on our trailer was not within the design specs. Jason offered to have our trailer inspected by their shop or a local provider to determine what might be our issue. Upon further discussion with Jason and a few more photos sent to him, we quickly determined the source of our issue was the incorrect Dexter Heavy Duty Kit Shackle was used on our single axle setup. The correct shackle kit (K71358) has shackles that are 4 5/8" in length whereas ours was the shackles you would have used on a dual axle trailer with a length of ~ 3 5/8". Ergo, our trailer is sitting ~ 1" lower that it should. I requested he send me the correct kit with new bolts, nuts, bushings, and shackles for me to install sometime next week. My best guess is someone in the factory just picked up the wrong shackles and installed. I am sure Jason will provide them with the feedback required to establish a QC process that inspects this area so it never happens again. I would however, recommend other 2020 LE1 owners out there inspect their shackles to ensure the correct ones were used on their trailers.

I thought I would post these pics to educate folks who don’t fully understand the suspension.... The shackles provide front to rear motion as the springs compress and extend (since their length changes). On a single axle setup there is one at the back, and it points down from its hanger (bracket). On a tandem setup there are two in the middle at the equalizer unit, and they point up. So on a single axle, if you install longer shackles it will lift the trailer frame up further away from the axle, increasing the clearance, but the opposite happens with the tandem, the clearance would actually be reduced. So it is really important to mention which model trailer you have when talking about this stuff. And this shows what a “spring over axle” conversion does.... The SOA mod provides around 5 “ of lift (using the original axles) and also a huge increase in frame clearance, so it is necessary to install rubber bump stops to protect the springs from damage from travelling too far. When you do the mod, if you instead buy new axles with a 2” or 4” offset upwards, you can decrease the lift without actually altering that wonderful gap at the tube. So you could end up with an Ollie that is lifted 1” or 3” over the stock height, with tall progressive bump stops. John Davies Spokane WA

Hull 26 had a spring over axle configuration, correct? I agree that it is a too tall, but if it also had a 2” drop axle (with spindles offset upwards) it would be perfect. That is what the LE2 needs IMHO..... then there would be tons of room for soft stops..... Do you have a good pic of the underside that you can share? Thanks, John Davies Spokane WA

One more thought. Our TST system gives us a temperature readout for each tire. Probably most of them do now, but it's a great feature. You'll normally see a rise in temp as the daytime temp rises, and road friction raises the air temp in the tire, but a very sudden spike could indicate a bearing problem. It's reading the air, not the hub temp, but it at least can make you aware before a major issue.

I had a very detailed response - but never mind - This is not something that should be occurring. Oliver relies on Jason and crew to carry the day for the manufacturing foibles. Glad to see the problem is on the fix. Best in class - well it is a low bar.... RB