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You have to understand with a dual fiberglass shell the Oliver Elite II is already quite heavy for its size, at 25 or 27 feet that weight would grow considerably. Based upon your description above I suspect the Oliver is not a good fit for your needs or desires, unless you decide to make some serious compromises. Understand too that AS you looked at is at least 8 foot wide and probably 8.5 foot which becomes an entirely different game when towing compared to the 7 foot wide Oliver. Personally I don't care if Oliver ever decides to make a larger one, it would not interest me one iota given how we camp and travel. Another option for you to consider is the Lance Travel Trailers and IMHO they are made to a much different standard than other boxy trailers. I personally feel their quality control is noticeably better than AS though the AS's really look cool especially on the inside. Nice designs! If you go the Lance route, no one will ever ask to see the inside or ask for a tour of the trailer with an Oliver you have to figure on doing this at almost every campground you arrive at. This has been the case for us going on 7 years. Good luck with your decision process and welcome to the group.

UPDATE ON OUR STARLINK: Our package from Elon Musk arrived yesterday, 04-28-22. As I previously stated, I ordered the kit to be shipped to our home in Morton, Illinois with a service address of Sheridan, Wyoming, where we will be camping in a couple of weeks. I was eager to try out the system, since I have learned that most of the Starlink kits that are being shipped are equipped with roaming capabilities. I checked the Starlink map on the website and searching my localities. It is a simple task; there is a small icon in the upper left corner to click, and a world map opens showing light and dark green shading where coverage exists. I found that Morton, IL, had coverage; however, Tremont, IL, where R-Villa is in storage, was just outside the coverage area. I decided to drive the six miles to Tremont, set it up, and take a chance! I had learned from my research on Facebook Starlink groups that the coverage is sometimes better than the map indicates. It took me all of ten minutes to set up the "Dishy." The instructions are super easy. I used a Jackery Explorer 300 Solar Generator as a power source, placed the Dishy on the roof of my truck, and powered up. Even though I was not in my service area and the map said there was no coverage, Dishy immediately started searching and locked onto the satellites immediately. Within minutes, I had a Wi-Fi network set up! (I did turn off the snow melt feature, as it is a power consumer.) I entered the Ollie, turned on the Visio, and set the TV to the new Wi-Fi network I had just set up. Voilá, I'm streaming Netflix! This is a game changer!

I was asked to instruct an informal demonstration on repairing any plumbing issues. I will be bringing some pex tubing and tools used to fix a broken tube or fitting. This will be a hands-on session and anyone who wants to try their hand at it will be welcome to do so. I also plan to demo the proper way to remove and lubricate the cable that controls the black tank sliding gate valve.

GSDK9Dad... I hear you on some of those concerns. I was looking at many different models... in the campgrounds passed thru. I was always looking at the pros/cons of each model... even toy haulers. I KNEW we required a quality unit and I was looking at AS because they are built near my home and many of my friends spent their careers with them. The wet shower is a concern for me (I'm a shower taker). Many went into Olivers with at least some concern on shower size. Most have since decided it now is non-issue. We are travelers... not so much campers. We want mobile comfort but don't need a rolling house. One of the attractions (for me) of Oliver is it's reputation for towing. Virtually no one with experience will dispute that point. I had to reign myself in when looking at RV's. What did I really need to be comfortable in while traveling? There are bigger units... and personally I fell in love with some of the AS floor plans. The very first time I saw a trailer with two twin beds in it was a vintage AS... probably around 1955 model. I never forgot that. The LEII allows me to chill, read a book in bed... watch a bit of tv... go to bed, wake up and have a cup of coffee at at the table while my wife sleeps in later. I can go to bathroom, shower and step out to greet the world when I'm good and ready. It's enough. Cooking for most part is a combination of stove top, microwave and grill outside. I quote someone else that said "Ollie is everything I need and nothing more". Ultimately cost has to be calculated. What is a reasonable long term resale value?? Because $90K and fuel costs will buy a lot of hotel rooms! So then when we toured the factory at Hohenwald and decided to spend this kind of money... I had to give AS one more look while Oliver was fresh in my mind. I still liked the floor plan.... but the quality of an AS was beyond disappointing to me. On many levels... AND it was about $30k MORE... for roughly the same length and one foot wider. This may be a unique point in time... but the re-sale value of Olivers is pretty incredible. Ultimately... the cost of any unit is just the difference between purchase and resale... and whatever maintenance cost in between. That's what you paid to travel around. On after the sale service: I'm in Ohio... so Hohenwald isn't exactly close... but their service has proven to be stellar. I learned the hard way before that the "warrantee and service" that you might think is similar to owning a new Honda... it's NOT that way in the RV world in general. Not even close. I expect to educate myself enough to manage 90% of my own service and maintenance on the Oliver. When I can't... I'm confident the factory will be there for me. In two days we are leaving to pick up our new LEII... and we will be doing a shake down trip and then hanging out with others at the Rally. That was really nice of Oliver to schedule a get together just for us so we could meet everyone! 🙂

We carry a very small bag of tools, a charged drill and bits, a spare set of bearings and seals, a good sams road service card, and several credit cards. And, a tire plug kit. A multimeter. Often, a chain saw. And, two cell phones, one gsm, one CDMA. Last two, probably most important. When we deliver or rent rvs, we take an even smaller kit. Plus good sams and a couple credit cards. And, the phones. Maybe I'm just lucky, but we've rarely needed a lot more that we couldn't get at the next lowes, home depot, Canadian super store, or ace hardware, or rv center. Happy to report, never had to use bearing kit or tire plug kit. Its ok. Still keep them around. Those are trip killers. Carrying a few bits of pex fitting and tubing wouldn't add a lot of weight. We do also have duck tape, and a few scraps of wire, and a few connectors and a fuse kit . I guess we live on the edge. I don't want to drive a huge truck to carry a garage with us. It hasn't been necessary, in all these many years.

The Tundra was bought to tow the Oliver. It will continue to be the primary TV, regardless of how the Ram performs. The Dodge needs its legs stretched so it will get placed into service for this trip. Mostly interested in M.P.G. towing between the two. The ride is rougher than the Tundra but not by much. Dodge has 145,000 mi on it, >80% of this running at 1900 rpm in 6th gear on the interstate. Growing up in MI this truck would have never made it to the age of 19 without rusting apart, but as a CO vehicle from new it still has paper stickers on the axles and zero rust. It runs like new and will remain in service for many years to come. Drives like a new truck, just more than is needed for the Ollie.

Dave, Thank you! You have definitely made me even more exited about my upcoming trip to Tennessee. I really going to enjoy the tour and looking them over. I keep telling myself, even when I tent camp, I don't "hang out" in my tent unless the weather turns bad (then it is pretty miserable lol). I do realize I will be spending a lot more time on the road and camping with a trailer when I retire but, I still will want to sit out and enjoy when possible. I am 6'2" and not a "small individual" it has served me well in my career but, not always fun in tight spaces. At first I was concerned about the "wet bath" idea but, I keep hearing how much room there actually is so, I am looking forward to seeing that in person as well. I do appreciate all the feedback from everyone and I do realize everyone has there own reasons for choosing and ultimately it has to be "right" for each person. I am learning all I can in the meantime! 🙂

By the sounds of it - you have already decided on what you want. If I were in your shoes I'd try attacking the issue from a different perspective - how do you intend to use your camper? What I mean by this is if your main usage will be going to commercial camp grounds and possibly the occasional National Park (even though the 27 foot AS could be a bit of a challenge in some of these parks) you will have your decision. On the other hand - if you want ease of travel, ease of getting into and out of more remote places or if you want to camp in chilly weather then that road will lead you in a different direction. If you spend or plan to spend a fair amount of your camping and on the road time actually in your camper then something a bit on the roomy side would be attractive while if being in the out of doors, hiking, fishing and the like is your style then you will go in a different direction. Let these decisions drive the answer to what size and/or design of camper you should look at. Then you will be in a better position to be comfortable with the brand of camper. Good luck! Bill

The only time we wish we had more room is when we camp during periods of lengthy bad weather and can’t spend time outside. We spend a lot of time outside. If the weather is cold we set up the Clam and fire pit and have a nice outdoor living area. Otherwise, we’re out under the awning enjoying the weather. Mike

I bought a 1–Up roof rack and mounted it on my Ollie’s rear crossbar in place of the cargo basket. I also got a Super Duty Single for the Land Cruiser. That rack has a place to store the ramp, a couple of big studs on the rear support piece. The roof rack (tray) has no provision for attaching the ramp. The ramp is 2” x 4.5” x 48” steel channel. I do not want to drill any extra holes in it, the powder coat will be compromised. I prefer to mount it vertically, on edge, forward of the tray, so as to not hinder access to the sewer area. I wonder if one of these would work? I can fabricate a sort of cradle from aluminum angle and rubber, and just use a ratchet strap, but I was hoping for something premade and a little more elegant. Any ideas? If I had a pickup truck, the ramp could go in the bed. I do have a roof rack, but prefer not to carry the ramp up there. Thanks for any comments. I’ll post a thread about the rack system when I am done. I am still drilling, my shop is a mess ….😳 John Davies Spokane WA

My 2002 1500 is rusting to pieces…however I still use it to bash snow piles during the winter months. I just can’t kill it and prefer to take the abuse out on it vs the 2021 one ton that replaced it. I have to say in your shoes I’d sell the 2018 and let the dodge pull the Oliver full time.

I'm seeing this more often these days, 26-27' travel trailers with 2 ACs. I don't get it. We were in the Badlands and AZ in mid summer with our travel trailer that size with 1 AC and got by. Even our 32' fifth wheel has only 1 AC and it's been fine from the mid-West to the east coast. All this will do is lower the line voltage in campgrounds even more.

What routlaw said. There is a world of difference between an Elite II and a 27’ Airstream, size wise. If the AS seemed right to you, the Oliver will seem small. If you frequent Airforums, you will see that Airstream does have quality control issues. It seems that it takes about a year of fixes and repairs and maybe a trip to the factory in Ohio before things are right. Most AS owners don’t seem to mind because of the “cool” factor, nice interior appointments and size. We also looked at AS and really liked them when sitting in the showroom or on the lot. As far as a bigger Oliver, I bet they are currently at the drawing board looking at how it might be implemented. I don’t think it will happen in the near future, though. A trip to the factory is a good idea. You’ll be able to experience the size and learn about Oliver’s manufacturing process and QC. Mike

I pretty much have most of the same tools. In addition I carry an inch-pound and a foot-pound torque wrenches, a small electrical pump, a 20 volt DeWalt air compressor, impact and drill. Also electrical supplies, and a set of wheel bearing seals and two of my old Dexter bearings in case my Timken's die. I use my F-150 jack when not using the three onboard jacks, and carry a milk crate of 2 X 6 lumber for shims and under jack support. PS: Jumper cables, tow strap, head lamp, TeleSteps ladder, Fortiflex buckets, and work gloves. If I can't fix it, and there is no cell, I have a Garmin InReach tracker that allows satellite transmission of messages to anyone I want anywhere in the world.

This was the biggest PITA that I have had with my Oliver. The 4 screws are 1" long and maybe #12. I did drill new holes with a 13/64” bit. The existing screws were sealed with a white product that was probably silicone. If you have replaced a closet flange at home, just forget what you know, because this is a new experience. My advice is to try a stainless steel, 2 piece repair ring before removing the original closet flange. Now that I have said that, feel free to do what you want, but I’ll tell you about my mistakes and successes. I will say the I did use an ABS flange with a stainless ring by Sioux Chief from Lowes, but it was the 3rd one I tried. The first 2 were ordered from Home Depot as well as the 2 foot section of 3" ABS pipe. It took HD about 6 weeks to complete that order. Make sure the closet flange will fit inside a 3" schedule 40 ABS or PVC pipe. I removed the existing flange by removing the 4 screws and trying to pull the flange up. That didn’t work because of the rubber bushing in the top of the black tank and the flexibility of the tank itself. I could pull the flange up about an inch, so I put a couple of wooden wedges under the flange and then used a flat pry bar on a piece of 1x4" and worked a couple short pieces of 2x4" under the lip of the flange. I was then able to use the pry bar again and when the flange was about 3" up from the floor, it would stay in that position and I was able to remove the wood and pull it out. The rubber bushing came out of the hole in top of the tank and came off of the pipe because it wouldn’t fit through the floor hole and ended up on top of the tank. I noticed that tank hole was about 3/8" closer to the street side wall than the floor hole, they were misaligned. I didn’t think it would be a problem because Oliver was able to install it. Oh Boy, was that a mistake. After receiving the parts from HD, I cut a 4" long piece of the ABS pipe, beveled the bottom end to match the original and glued it to the closet flange. Then I put the rubber gasket in place on the top of the tank then inserted the flange through the floor and into the rubber gasket and pushed it into the gasket and got to within 2" of the floor where it stopped. So I removed it and applied some silicone grease to the shank and tried it again. This attempt got to within an inch of the floor, so I placed a short 2x6 on top of the flange and tried standing on it and it stopped about 3/8" from bottoming out. Throughout all of this effort I’m thinking the flex of the tank is preventing me from it seating completely. And then the stainless ring of the flange popped out of its slot. So I started over with the extra flange I bought and it would not fit flush either and then I bumped my head and the light bulb went on, the flange was bottoming out on the lip of the hole. Upon further examination of the original flange, I realized the that the 1/4" tall bottom ring had a different profile than the original and that was catching on the edge of the floor hole. I found that the Sioux Chief flange had a matching profile by looking at Pinterest pictures and confirmed that through their website. And the new flange had the same result, so I got my jigsaw out and enlarged the hole and it still wouldn’t bottom out. So I made a cup of coffee and tried to think of a way to push the top of the tank up from the inside. The picture below shows the piece of scrap rod that I bent into a J shape and reached into the tank through the Flange and pulled up on the tank while standing on the flange. I moved around the hole at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock and the tank top moved up at each position and the flange was resting on the floor when I finished. I screwed the flange down and reset the toilet. Finally success! And by now you have figured out that I have the ability to make a long story, longer. And I am persistent to the point of stupidity! And I just had a new thought, has the tank moved from its original position and that caused the misalignment? Mossey

Wow! That is an amazing amount of gear to travel around with, for me its been perhaps half or less than that and its never occurred to me to be prepared to change bearings while out. There have been only very few times when I have had to reach for any of my tools at least with the Oliver and then only minor things, previous campers well that's a different story. Maybe I've just been lucky. Also amazed you were able to do all 4 sets of bearings in half a day ±. Heck I once had to rebuild a VW engine in a Nebraska campground in the first week of November no less because the flywheel came loose from the crankshaft. This was not a pleasant experience. Young and stupid years. Amazingly my wife is still with me, not sure what she was thinking. 🤔

I looked online for the Dexter info also, and could not find it. I did find a torque table for the wheel studs in a Dexter Operations & Maintenance Service Manual. Note for 1/2” x 20 studs the Maximum torque is 120 ft-lbs. This table supports JDs assumption that Oliver’s recommendations of 120 ft-lbs is too high. I’ve always thought 120 seemed too high, and have been using 100 ft-lbs. I have not had a lug nut loosen yet, I do check them before or after every trip. Unless new info comes to light, I think I will go to 90, which is 25% below the max value.

As recent as 2021 they still came with printed manuals. Agree that having it in print is handy, especially when off grid with no cell reception.

A big difference between the 5.7L V8 gas engine in the Ram 1500 and the 6.7L I6 Diesel engine in the Ram 2500 is running on the interstate with RPMs below 2,000. Even uphill, when the 5.7 downshifts and RPMs go up to 3,000 or more the Cummins just purrs along at 1,800 or 1,900. Only on steep inclines does the diesel downshift to over 2,000 RPM. Mike

Yes, I did speed tests with both Starlink (see attached screen shot) and Ookla; both similar. The speeds were not blisteringly fast; however, I was in a location where coverage was not even supposed to exist! When I get to Wyoming in a couple of weeks, I will give it a more thorough workout in a robust coverage area and report back.

My RAM has air suspension with 3 height settings (one for Eco mode). Because of the air suspension it rides as smooth as a car. Per a dealer service rep, who had one without the air suspension he said his road real rough.

I towed over 60K miles with two different Ram 1500s. 5.7L, 3.92 rear, 8 speed. Both did a fine job towing my Elite II. Both had a comfortable ride. However, there is a marked difference between them and my Ram 2500, 6.7L diesel. Also, the new Ram heavy duty trucks have a very nice ride, comparable to the 1500s. A 2003 one ton will have a rougher ride for sure, but will pull markedly better than the Tundra (even though the Tundra does a fine job towing!).

2017 LE II, Hull 244. I could not add water to the fresh water tank using the streetside fresh water connection. Upon removing the small screen at the inlet of the connector, these bits were removed. The line remained occluded. A one way valve within the brass right angle fitting to which the pex water line tubing is connected had malfunctioned. I disconnected the water line at the brass fitting and attempted to free the occlusion with compressed air, unsuccessfully. Fresh water pex line disconnected The brass section that contains the one way valve. I was able to free the occlusion once another piece of the one way valve assembly was extracted. The additional plastic piece that, once removed, allowed water to flow. Obviously the check valve doesn’t function now but I can use the streetside fresh water tank connection to fill the tank. It’s important now to keep the outside cap firmly plugged to prevent back flow, particularly when using the boondocking port. Previously that port was the only way to get water to the fresh water tank. Within the confines of the basement I could not get wrenches onto the brass fittings to disassemble it. Equally obvious is the need for a new one way valve within this fitting. Next time I happen by Hohenwald maybe they’ll lend a hand.

I do know that both Jason Essary and Rodney Lomax are scheduled to be at the Rally and that both would be interested in discussing repairs and improvements. Unfortunately, it is probably too late to include a "formal" session such as the one you are suggesting for this year's Rally but a PM to Matt Duncan might get it included for next year's Rally. Bill

I sure would have used this information IF it had been available when I purchased my CalMark. I doubt that they would have recommended anything different at the time even for the older covers such as mine. The original warranty on my cover was for 6 years - I'm now into my seventh year and the cover still shows no signs of wearing out. Bill

Moderator: It appears that we have wandered afar from the topic. I don't mind it tooooo much as it was the original poster that morphed us over into the lug nut torque discussion. 🙂 Any chance we could be moved over to a new post line? Mahalo, GJ

I have sent Dexter, E-trailer and SenDel RFI's for all of us. E-trailer's first response was to quote the OTT Owner's Manual = 120 ft-lbs. I pushed back for THEIR opinion. We'll see Here is the Sendel Web Site: https://recstuff.com/trailer-wheels?_bc_fsnf=1&Style=S20&Color%5B%5D=Silver+Aluminum&Color%5B%5D=Silver+Machined+Aluminum&Size=16%2 Here is the SenDel rim some of us are using: The SenDel product I believe we have is their S20 66655T. S20 = Style of the rim 6 = 16” diameter 6 = 6” wide 6 = Number of lug bolts 55 = 5.5” bolt pattern T = Aluminum They are listed on their web site for $189

It looks like a combination of age and hard water has taken its toll on that check valve. Neoprene seal is probably in the water tank but was there any sign of the spring? While you're in there, strongly suggest replacing the other one.

Blue Seas Single Circuit 6006. Click on higher resolution pic if you’d like to confirm. Note this switch disconnects the positive circuit between the panels and the controller. Zamp Tech Service told me they do not recommend a switch between their Zamp controller and batteries.

Thanks for your suggestion, Frank. I’m familiar with the valve configurations.

I spoke with Diana at Calmark regarding cleaning the Calmark cover and she sent this attached info to me. And yes we have the black streaks aka air pollution on our cover as well. She said not to place the cover in a washing machine as it will remove the chemicals or special additives that help with repelling water. I attached the tips and info which she emailed to me today. I hope this helps. 887450757_TipsandInfomationforyourCalMarkCover.pdf

Hi FrankC, I just semi-finished this project. Hull 996's flange should have lasted longer than 2 months, IMO. The 4 screws are difficult to loosen but they are large diameter, coarse thread screws that merely tap into the fiberglass, as far as I could tell. My problem was attempting to remove the flange. There is, for lack of a better description, a tailpiece molded onto the flange and I had a difficult time loosening/twisting so I could remove and replace. Well, I was able to twist it somewhat and pull up on the flange to remove it part way and I was afraid to completely pull it out as I don't know if I can get a replacement flange to fit back in the hole. Sounds weird but I think it's wedged in so tight that it's pulling the top of the tank up and down as the partially removed flange just bounces up and down like it's on a spring. My problem was that one of those locking bolt cutouts was broken and I just rotated the flange around to use the other 2 cutouts, an idea that came from a fellow Olivarian (:)) at the Bluebonnet rally. Thanks, Phil 🙂. I don't have a replacement flange at this time and I really need to know I'll be able to get the flange's tailpiece back into the black tank, since it's such a tight fit. I plan on drawing on the knowledge from the folks at the upcoming rally. I did call OTT and was told about the tight fit, but I still need to know what going on down there where I can't see anything, not lol. I didn't get the flange to go back in because of the springiness and my remedy for that was to sit on the toilet to compress everything and tighten the bolts down. Everything seems good and tight for 2 weeks now. Best of luck! John

Note that these plug kits are only meant to plug things like nail, screw, holes and the like in the tread area of tires. If you get a puncture in the sidewall of a tire (i.e. you cut the side of the tire on a curb or a rock) or if there is a good sized cut in the tread, these plug kits will not work. While I've used these kits on tires to get me home, I will take the damaged tire to a tire shop to have a proper "mushroom" type repair done. This requires the bead of the tire to be taken off the rim such that a "plug" that is in the shape of a mushroom can be installed from the inside. Also note that you will need to have an air compressor with you in order to reflate the tire once you have installed the plug. If you have never used a plug kit before it would help to have a little practice. A local tire store might let you practice on a junk tire. Some strength is required - you must first get the "reamming" tool into and out of the hole in the tire and then be able to get the tool with the plug on it into and out of the tire. Bill

1 - take the four screws that hold the remote panel off and gently remove the panel. There should be a phone style connector in that back of that panel - unplug it and re-plug it in three of four times - and - do the same thing where the other end of the wire goes into the inverter. 2 - Check to make sure that the wires (both ground and positive) going into the inverter are tight. 3 - now re-try the remote switch. If it works you are done. If it doesn't work - do what they said. New remote panels are not all that expensive on Amazon but, hopefully, you don't have to go that route. Bill

Good luck! The diaphragms on those carbs are generally fragile and since most people use regular ethanol gas it just destroys them. You can always try regular carb cleaner but letting that stuff sit long enough to do its job is probably long enough to destroy what's left inside (if anything). Bill

Purchased white plastic kitchen cutting board from Walmart (UHMH Plastic sheet can also be used) and used a 1 1/8" hole saw to cut out 1" OD plastic plugs to fill the existing ventilation holes in the battery compartment door in our 2015 LE2. Didn't want to mount these plugs permanently, sealed with clear RTV silicone for easy removal.

Flat tires and wheel bearing failures are the things that can leave you stranded. Waiting many hours or even days for Good Sam or some other roadside assistance isn’t something I care to do. Actually met a couple who were stranded and lived in their 5th wheel trailer for 3 days on the side of I-70 waiting for a replacement wheel bearing. I believe in being prepared Probably not the norm for all Ollie owners but I don’t want to be stranded waiting for help for some issue that I can fix myself. So I carry quite a bit of tools, parts and supplies. A Dewalt portable tool set in a carrying case with full ratchet/socket sets in 1/4”, 3/8” and 1/2” drive sizes, open end wrenches, US and metric Allen bit and torx bit drivers, screw drivers, etc. Misc pliers, wire cutters/strippers, large crescent wrench, hammer. An electrical multi-meter for diagnosing electrical issues. Spare fuses, crimp connectors, etc. Torque wrenches for the lug nuts and axle nuts (different torque ranges needed, one wrench won’t cover both). All the special tools needed as described in earlier posts in this thread for a complete bearing replacement and grease repack if needed, such as a seal puller, drift punches, dead blow mallet, bearing driver set, 1-1/2” socket for the axle nut, grease cap driver tool. Brakeleen for cleaning old grease out. Redline CV-2 Bearing grease to repack the bearings. 4 complete sets of bearings (Timken Set4 and Set17), seals and grease caps, enough to service all 4 wheels if needed. A grease gun with Lucas red-n-tacky grease for the suspension zerk fittings. A large military surplus HUMVEE scissor jack that’s perfect for the Ollie. A few 12” & 18” long pieces of 4”x4” lumber to use for cribbing with the jack to make lifting the Ollie much quicker. A small DC air compressor. And a few other things that I’ve probably forgotten to mention. All kept in toolboxes in the bed of the pickup truck. I just did my annual wheel bearing service (which included replacing the original bearings) took about 4 hours total to do all 4 axles plus grease the suspension Zerk fittings. But I was in no rush. Maybe an extreme for what to carry on the road, but I’m much more comfortable traveling/towing the Ollie knowing I am prepared.

We're buying our first RV (a Winnebago Micro Minnie) on Monday, and if we enjoy it as much as we anticipate we'll be upgrading to an Oliver in early 2023. We're going to be living in it for about 5 weeks in June/July (so I hope we enjoy it!) and I'll be using Starlink to work from a state park. I'll post experiences here. I've got a flagpole buddy/pole and pole mount on order, and will be slipping the cable under the gasket of the Winnebago's slide out. Curious to hear about what people end up doing the cable routing in an Oliver. Hopefully they offer some sort of starlink cable routing as an option / preinstalled volcano mount maybe.

Prediction: the diesel will feel like there's no trailer back there at all. You'll have to be careful when you hitch up or you'll be 2 hours away before you realize the trailer isn't behind you. 😁

We replaced our lead/acid batteries with a lithium battery and plugged/sealed Ollie's battery door vents.

This is a picture from the production line when mine was hatched. Looks like 43 is the number for four each Jack Mount Bolts.

As to item #2, I carry business cards with our names, cell phones, and emails to make life easier when exchanging info. You can print them on the computer, or order them very inexpensively online. Next time around, I'm adding hull #.

Great story, and welcome! I hope you have many great adventures in your Ollie. Our #12 has many stories to tell.

I leave my Ollie for 4 to 8 weeks at a time, and always turn off my lithium batteries with the little on/off buttons on top of each battery. The solar panel is always receiving sunshine, but not converting it because the batteries are off. Then when I turn the batteries back on, the panels start putting power into the batteries.

Do you have a red battery disconnect switch in the upper cabinet above street side bunk? That’s the solar cutoff. See pic of the one in my 2021. Not sure if 2020 had that or not. If you don’t have that switch, see pic of 2019 solar electrical diagram. You should disconnect at the batteries. Caution, the circuit will be energized if the solar panels are exposed to light. This could lead to accidental short circuit and fire. You can turn the solar panel current “off” by removing the two blade fuses on the roof, or putting tarps over the panels. See topgun2 post from April 6 above . Depending on the answers to his questions, disconnecting the batteries for just a few months might not be necessary.

Yep - you're right - the EZ lub hub was not stock on my Ollie and I still have the stock hubs There was no MAGIC in choosing the grease caps other than thinking about what would be easy to replace on the road and what just might last a bit longer - the center rubber plugs basically had nothing to do with the decision other than the lack of a "steel" center just might mean that the side walls and/or the outer rim of the caps would be constructed a bit stronger as compared to a "normal" grease cap. In addition, I felt that the non-rounded edges of these grease caps would allow for easier installation with or without a block of wood - it would be easier to gently tap a hammer around that edge versus doing the same on a more rounded edge. Certainly not "rocket science". Bill

It seems that Starlink has enabled roaming... So no more changing your address to get coverage. Here is a link to the availability map. https://www.starlink.com/map Interesting that coverage is almost complete in the places where you would need it the most. The Dakotas, Montana, Wyoming, etc. I am tempted to spend the $99 to waitlist just to get in the queue.

Others may disagree but we have stored our Elite II with 4 lead acid batteries over long Montana winter months with no issues for 7 years now. All I have done is to make sure they are fully charged, then turn off solar, and all parasitic battery drains. Once I bring the camper out of storage they still maintain a charge of 12.8 volts ± a fraction. If you leaved them plugged in and continually charging you will most like boil the water out of them doing more damage in the long run than disconnecting. Note this includes solar charging as well. After over 7 years our 4 batteries are just now starting to diminish a slight amount as of this past winter. Hope this helps.

The settings inside the inverter are dependent on the type of batteries, number of batteries, incoming AC power, and how it is used. Below is a link to the Xantrex Inverter Settings article for best setup. You may find that some settings require a change as not everyone uses their camper in the same way but we have reviewed these settings and set them based on majority rule and least amount of callbacks for issues. You may have to change some of the settings based on your current location, current shore power connection, or if you make a change to your battery bank. https://support.olivertraveltrailers.com/portal/en/kb/articles/xantrex-inverter-settings If you need assistance changing your settings please contact the Oliver service department. If you are able to download the Xantrex App and Bluetooth connect to the inverter remote it is much easier to change the settings. How to connect via Bluetooth is included in the article link above.

I would love to see an 8 inch stretch on the shorty...6 inches added to the bed, two to the door. If that added too much weight, though, to need a tandem axle, I'd say no way. Without any extra length, the original Ollie Elite is a fine boondocking machine. We've got the time and miles to know. (11 years, 100,000 miles). Love my little trailer. Everything we need, and then some. Sherry