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Hi all, I spoke with the tech regarding the Dometic Fresh Jet and here is what I know so far: -The quoted price does NOT include the interior duct feature - but you don't need it because you can use your existing one -There is no need to cut the fiberglass because it uses the same footprint. -There is no remote or heat pump on the US option at this time. -He *thinks* the drainage will be the same, but I asked him to confirm this with the company rep. He was supposed to call me back on this Friday but I did not hear back, so I have another call in today. I will update when I know. I am still in their queue for a couple more weeks, but I am planning to go with the Fresh Jet and use the existing thermostat. It will save me a lot of money and be the simplest change. I will continue to keep folks posted. I did tell him there are a number of interested people wanting to see how this goes. Thanks! Mary

We have found the dehumidify mode works really well! And we also have learned that running our Truma on low it gets colder than a meat locker. We prefer cooler sleeping temps. I don’t see us ever running it in high.🥶 With the (IR function) of the remote it does require it to be directly pointed at the sensor for sure. We learned from the Truma tech at the rally that it’s important to touch the send button on the remote when you touch a different setting. Ahhh the learning curves of the new Truma! The more you learn the better it gets! One thing for sure, it keeps the interior very cool at a very quiet sound decibel. Sleep mode is even quieter if that’s possible. Patriot🇺🇸

Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse A/T Tires, in LT225/75R16

OK, so the tech said drainage lines up. I have ordered the unit so it will be ready when they get to me. So excited!!

FWIW, I remember during our orientation with Hannah, she cautioned me against using the switch on the hot water heater. She said that if I switched it to electricity, and ran the tank dry, and didn't remember the tank was on electricity, it would burn it out. So, yes, I'm thinking that OTT wants to minimize the chance of operator error resulting in a call to service or complaints.

If it's fogging (broken seal between panes) you can take your trailer to a service center and have the windows pulled,,resealed, and done. We had three big windows done at Suncoast Desgin in Hudson FL for about $1200. lifetime warranty, and great folks. There are services like this around the country. Google "rv window fogging repair" and your area. The bath window may be cheaper to just replace. It's so small.

I purchased a generator box from the KSH folks while we were in Lake Havasu this past winter. I particularly wanted a box for my Honda 2000 generator. For the past five years I’ve kept the generator in the Oliver basket (the older expanded aluminum version which weighed 35 pounds empty) and covered with truckers tarp material. This has worked great but the tarp has aged and would have had to be replaced in another year or so. The stock KHS box has three openings covered with removable aluminum plates so that the generator can be used inside the box. This setup is not at all water resistant and I’m not interested in using the generator so close to my trailer. I ended up getting them to make a box without the three cutouts. The box came with two hold down brackets welded in place which I removed because they were exactly in my way where I needed to mount the box. I was able to use the existing holes in the fiberglass cowling and the original stainless u bolts. The back part of the box is mounted to a 1/4 inch thick by 6 inch wide aluminum plate. The front is mounted to a 1/8 wall 1 inch by 3 inch rectangle aluminum tube. This allows the box to be level. I made two 1/4 inch aluminum spacers for the u bolts to clamp against for inside of the box. The u bolts can also be used to strap down the generator inside the box. I made two 3/8 thick by 1 1/2 inch wide brackets for under the frame. As you can see in the photos, the front bracket was made so that I can hang the safety chains on it as well.

I took my 2022 EII trailer in to have my loud Dometric exchanged for the Houghton/RecPro. And the tech told me he just finished a training on the new Dometc Fresh Jet and it is supposed to be the quietest AC on the market. it would be an easier retrofit, and when I look it up on Amazon, it says the sound level is 58 dB. That is lower than Houghton, I think. They are backed up for a month so I won’t get it done right away and I’m wondering if anyone else has researched this. I welcome everyone’s feedback.

Anybody else had this happen? They insist on ST tires due to liability. I was pretty steamed but I remained polite. With difficulty!. Comments? Is this happening to other owners? From other stores? Thanks John Davies Spokane WA

Same here!

Assuming you have AGMs now, I would wait until they’re at end of life and then replace with lithiums. That’s what I did. It would be nice to source our own USA lithium and make our batteries here. Mike

@Sofaman I have AGMs. I just inspected them last evening and all looks fine. My plan is to let the AGMs run their course and take a look at what’s available when the time comes to replace them. I hope I have a few more years until that happens. If I was unsure about keeping my Oliver or not using it, I would not be spending another dime on it. All the best in your decision!

I’m just as confused as you seem to be?

After careful adjustment, the next step is to determine the total power going to the four brake magnets. I can think of two ways to do this: 1. IF YOU HAVE SOLAR: Disconnect from TV. Shut off everything in the trailer and note the residual amp draw. Go to the street side bed area and locate the power connection for the emergency activation of the brakes. Using your solar control system, check and record the amp draw causes by parasitic draws (Smoke and propane detectors, stereo, tv etc. Record this amp draw. Should be very low. Pull the break-away and check your solar system control and determine the amp draw. Subtract the two numbers and you will have the power going to your brakes "locked up". It should be right around 12 amps. Reinsert the break away pin to conserve power and avoid overhheating the magnets. If the increased power draw is less than about 12 amps, it likely will be around 3, 6 or 9 amps thereby indicating you have one or more magnets with a problem. If it is near 12 amps, the issue is not with the trailer end of the system. I would then take it to a trailer brake pro, not a RV shop. 2. If you don't have solar, than I would connect Ollie to your TV and having a partner to activate the brakes: Measure the total amperage going to the brakes. Requires a clamp on amp meter. Should read between 11 and 12 amps. This will tell you if one or more of your brakes are not getting the power it needs to fully activate. If low: Test the power going to each side. Should be half of the above (around 6 amps) and equal side to side. If not: Test each of the four lines going into the brake assembly to figure out which one is the problem. If found, determine if it is: Broken/corroded connection, bad ground to that magnet, or a bad magnet. As above, knowing the amp draw at various places allow you to figure out where the problem is. If none of the above works.... get professional help before replacing your controller. Ask prospective shops if they have a plug in testers that connects up to your 7-pin at the TV bumper to diagnose TV brake controller and wiring. Finding a bad connection there would be a lot cheaper than a new controller installation. Hope this helps. GJ

We got home from our 2023 OTTO rally trip yesterday and have a couple of days of Ollie cleanup scheduled. It was a little rainy at the rally, but we had very good time meeting some new owners and reconnecting with old ones. Now on to the business at hand! ScubaRx and I would like to apologize to all of you that responded to the dump valve maintenance discussion we had planned for the rally. As some of you know, Steve was under the weather and cut his rally stay a couple of days short. He is on the mend and getting better. This discussion is something we will try to complete at a future rally. Thank you all, Mossey

It’s all about your interpretation of too many eggs in one place. Great since of humor! 👍🏻😄

I had that problem with the bathroom window on our Oliver. Water actually building up between the panes. The sliding portion was not available separately as a replacement part, so I had to get the entire window from Oliver and replace it. Actually not too hard of a job. Worst part was removing all the old caulk from the fiberglass hull. Here are pics before, during, and after replacement. As another option there are companies that will refurbish the faulty window. At least one other Oliver owner has done that option so hopefully they will reply as well.

The last year I was there they had no room in the main open air shelter for at least half of the attendees while eating the potluck dinner. There were no "regular" camp sites left so they had campers in the "overflow" area (i.e. a field with no facilities). Please do not take my comments in the wrong manner. The campground is very nice as are the people that own it. The attendees are all friendly and as I mentioned above, the couple that organized the rally are really nice folks. The regular camping sites are relatively nice for a commercial campground too. Simply way too many people for my taste. Bill

@topgun2 Too many eggs in the basket Bill? 😄 Or were the sites too close and cozy? Patriot🇺🇸

We've used a bulldog collar, towing or not, plus a ball type lock while camped, for 16 seasons. More locks to defeat, more time needed for the jerk... Some people also deploy locks or chains on wheels. We don't.

When returning home from the Oregon Coast this April, my wife and I boondocked at a Harvest Host site. That cold evening, we tried to heat water for hot drinks in the microwave using the inverter, but it shut down after just a few seconds. We were surprised and disappointed, because our Lithium Pro Package with Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 watt inverter should enable us to use the microwave on inverted power for at least a few minutes. It had been a cloudy day so we got minimal solar recharge, and with our Nordcold fridge running on DC while on the road, our battery State of Charge was down to about 74%. When we submitted a service ticket, Jason Essary confirmed that we should be able to run the microwave on inverted power at 74% State of Charge (SOC), and much lower, down to 25-30% SOC. With Jason's helpful guidance, I then spent dozens of hours trying to troubleshoot the electrical system, both on the DC and the AC sides. The inverter/charger was charging as designed, and would run 120V appliances that pull up to 1100-1200 watts (including the Truma air conditioner, which pulls 1100 watts with the compressor running), but loads greater than 1400 watts (like the microwave or a space heater on a high setting) caused the inverter to shut down. Nothing we tried solved the problem, including replacement of the Optifuse 300A inverter breaker, which Oliver sent to me under warranty. I also spoke with a Xantrex customer service rep (after45 minutes on eternahold) who assured me the problem could not be with the inverter, so it must be in the trailer wiring. Jason then authorized me to engage an RV service tech at Oliver's expense to try to find a solution. But that was right before I had planned to use the trailer boondocking at the Lochsa River the week of May 15. I decided to engage a tech after I returned home. But while camping (and running the Lochsa river during the day) I happened to mention the inverter issue to another RVer. He asked me if my inverter is a Xantrex. Yup. He then told me he had been advised by an RV service tech to do a "hard reboot" of his Xantrex inverter to resolve a similar issue. He explained that this involves disconnecting both the positive and negative DC cables from the inverter, and leaving it at least overnight, then reconnecting. I determined to give it a try after I returned home, as it would be relatively easy to do. To my surprise, the "hard reboot" solved the problem. My tests have confirmed that we can now run the microwave on full power (1540 watts) for 4 minutes or more at a time, at SOC levels down to 35%. So, the Xantrex customer service guy was wrong--the problem was with the inverter. And, the solution was relatively easy to implement: turn off all batteries, and ensure that shore power is disconnected (so there is no power to the DC cables), then disconnect the DC cables from the inverter and leave at least overnight. I left mine disconnected for 3 days. Then reconnect, and turn the batteries back on. If your Xantrex inverter is not performing up to spec, try a hard reboot.

Unfortunately, my ASA Voyager rearview camera developed a leak which cause moisture to collect inside the housing. This, in turn, caused the camera view to be "foggy" and/or virtually non-usable. Via email I contacted ASA's customer relations area and they advised me to send the camera in to be examined. I removed it from the Ollie, boxed it up and put it in the mail 6 days ago. Today, I received a new camera via FedEx. That is what I call great service!. Unfortunately, ASA didn't include a tech in the package to do the re-install! However, that process has got to be a bunch easier than getting the old one off the Oliver in the first place.😊 Like Oliver, these guys take Service to the point it should be and this makes what could have been a very disappointing situation into an almost pleasant one. Bill

Great research and great news! Keep us updated on how the install goes and how you like the Freshjet!! Patriot🇺🇸

What exactly are you asking? Do you want to run the AC off the batteries for long periods? That is physically impossible. You HAVE to carry a large enough generator to run the AC from it if you are not plugged into shore power, there is no way that the solar panels alone can recharge that huge battery bank when it is depleted. Running AC or the microwave, AKA Battery Killer, consumes VAST amounts of electrical power. If you don’t use your Olllie, why keep it, that is very costly. Sell it so someone else can enjoy it. John Davies Spokane WA

Nah. I taught video/film production for 19 years. Feels too much like work to me now. 😁

Interested!

Patriot, Thanks for the info. I've never worked with rivets before. So you need to drill them out with a hand drill? What size bit do you use? I've got a 2021 LE2 and about 3 out of 6 are bad.

FYI about that outside switch, it a poor design in that it is completely unsealed, mine froze in the ON position, locked solid. I have a replacement on order. It too is “backwards” from USA standards, the on position is down. And it is $8 for what should be a $2 component, perhaps because of its unique design. I am going to mount the new switch upside down so ON is up. Any reason I shouldn’t? John Davies Spokane WA

Mountainoliver, I may not be the only member who is curious about your light. It has a Victorian vibe. 😀 Can you elaborate? And I really like that stout cross support. Excellent! John Davies Spokane WA

Ah yes. On our previous 4 trailers with fan (AC or heat) set to auto, it would actually turn off completely when the programmed temperature was reached, a bummer it’s not the same with the truma running all the time, the auto setting is only to switch between heat/cold!

@mountainoliver I like the way you secured the aluminum box to the Oliver frame it appears very robust vs self tapping screws. How do you plan to secure your generator when in use? Can you post up a few photos of your gen inside the box when not in use? Thanks! Patriot🇺🇸

Quite true. All the rvs we've delivered to Alaska had indoor switches, gas and electric, by the door . We have an indoor switch in our 2008, for the 12v dc igniter, only, inconveniently located under the bed. I tape over it, so we don't accidentally hit the switch with one of the storage bins we keep under the bed. The resoning may be that folks will hit the switch on a dry water heater, and burn it out . I don't know. If we camped regularly with hookups , I'd want that switch We don't, so never thought about it til now. Thanks.

A 2" knockout test plug might also work. Idk We have standard toilet. Don't know what the depth I'd beneath the nature's head. If in doubt, there's always duct tape, which we all have

Thanks, Frank. I guess I'll call Parts on Monday and see what it would run for a new.

Truma Aventa owners- a mod! I learned from Oliver Service that the Truma Aventa has a design flaw where the (8) fasteners that hold the AC cowling/shroud in place will hold water when it rains. This could result in a leak if the cowling screws are torqued too tight and the plastic cracks. Oliver has made Truma aware of this concern and has also taken steps to preempt water intrusion issues with the counter sunk screw holes by adding a self leveling sealer to each counter sunk fastener hole in the cowling. (See in pics) All new Olivers with Truma Aventa AC units have this self leveling sealer installed at the plant. Today I opted to take sealing these counter sunk fasteners to the next level with some 8 mil XPEL paint protection. I cut 8 small circles of the XPEL PPF and simply covered each of the 8 fastener holes. It took longer to trace and hand cut the 8 small circles from my PPF than to do the install. This PPF can easily be removed for access to the screws and then removal of AC cowling. The PPF will completely prevent any water intrusion issues even if the self leveling sealer should fail. I also covered the Truma side decals in PPF to prevent weathering or peeling over time. The PPF also has a UV protection which should also help keep the sealer from degrading under normal full sun light. This XPEL PPF is very tough material. We have had it installed on our cars, trucks and even 10 mil sheets installed on the front of our Ollie with excellent protection results. Mod On!!⚡️ Patriot🇺🇸 A few pics - These pieces were cut from scraps of 8 mil XPEL I had in my shop. Once installed they disappear. IMG_8826.mov

Thanks Max, 😊 Indeed this quick and easy mod along with proper torquing of the cowl fasteners will remove the concerns of ever having to think about water intrusion. 👍🏻 Patriot🇺🇸

Great site for a rally and really nice people organizing it. I attended for the first 3 or 4 years but have not been back due to over-crowding. 😒 Bill

I camped all winter DRY, some guy's do hook up black water with PVC piping and flush with anti freeze.

I made two shelves for the brackets where the tables are mounted to the interior wall. Works great for small items and iPhone. Photos below. Only problem is that I needed two 24" long pieces of aluminum z-channel but had to buy 24 feet. Now I have 20 feet left over so if anyone is interested in this mod and wants some of the z-channel you can send me a PM. In addition, I swapped the thumbtab bolts out for knobs. This is my first post so I hope it works correctly - let me know if I need to change anything. I am working on another mod that I intend to post. David

If I recall, JD super insulated the space under the sink as part of his winter hardening of his OE2. That project combined with adding access would open up the space for storage. Could you post some pic's under a net thread on how to do so?

Where there is the will there is a way. 😇

Good idea.

We use a Fort Knox hitch lock. Not as pretty as a Proven Industries but just as tough and a little less expensive. Bulldog Sliding Collar Coupler Lock Includes Cobra-Sidewinder puck lock- BOLT CUTTER PROOF!!! https://a.co/d/gkBIplM I also loop a large padlock through the two safety chains and attach them to the front basket so the trailer can't be dragged by the chains.

Are you looking to secure the hitch while traveling or while parked? The collar style works for both situations. The big heavy Proven Industries lock only works when parked. I have both 🙂. The Proven lock can double as a boat anchor. https://www.provenlocks.com/products/model-2178-b

Adjusting the controller didn’t seem to change much-one side was still braking much more aggressively. However, I am picking up a new controller to see if that helps and, per my friend’s suggestion, am taking the drums in to get turned or at least checked. Everything else seems to be working correctly and all the brakes are getting the same voltage. I will give the Oliver service center a call tomorrow morning.

Yes the current Dometic AC’s are noise makers! Truma and Houghton are so much quieter that now Dometic is forced to step it up! Ya gotta love competition in the free market! 😊 Patriot🇺🇸

Here are all the handouts the tech (appropriately named "Jason") gave me. Some is sales advice, but there are flowcharts for retrofits and good data - you'll see the Penguin II that is in the 2022s listed. 1971602662_ACModelFlowChart2022.pdf 1834042850_acFreshJetSalesTraining2023.pdf acFreshJet_FeaturesANDBenefits_Fall2022_FINAL.pdf

Yep, that looks like what I have. Thin aluminum and lightweight. You can lock it, but I never do since I don’t carry anything of value in it. I’ve had it longer than I thought, just checked my Amazon orders and I got it in October 2017. It still works fine, no dents or damage, does exactly what I got it for. Mike

When troubleshooting your thermostat, you may want to take time to plug the large hole on the wall behind the thermostat that the three conductor wire comes out of. You can see part of the hole in the picture above. I found that in colder weather, cold basement air can exit this hole directly into the thermostat and trick the thermostat into thinking the cabin temperature has fallen causing it to start the furnace when in fact the cabin is still at the preferred temperature. Once the furnace starts, the airflow reverses as warm air comes into and through the thermostat and into the basement through the hole, causing the furnace to shut off in short order and then the short cycle repeats itself. Merely covering the hole with a piece of tape is a quick and easy fix. This hole is not necessarily a design issue with OTT but rather a poorly designed thermostat. Well designed thermostats have sealed backs with the wire terminals located on the back of the thermostat. The Dometic has a hole in the back of the thermostat with the wire terminals located on the inside of the thermostat. Cheap design. I swapped my Dometic thermostat out for a "Easy Touch RV" thermostat from Micro Air, primarily to allow me to monitor cabin temperature and adjust the furnace remotely via wi-fi because I store my LE II outside many miles from my house and unwinterized. The Wi-Fi feature allows me to turn on and/or turn up the thermostat from home when a freeze event is forecast. I am also alerted if the propane runs out. Unlike the Dometic, the Easy Touch has a sealed back with terminals on the outside back of the thermostat. You may want to consider the Easy Touch as a replacement if in fact your Dometic thermostat continues to be balky and ultimately needs to be replaced. Micro Air makes a model that is an exact replacement for the Dometic thermostat in the Oliver.

2021 LE2 Below are pics of the thermostat in my Ollie. The second pic is with the face plate removed....it just pulls straight out. You will see that there are three male terminals (encircled with yellow pads)...these are operating like touch contacts rather than buttons. With the face plate attached you are pushing the face plate to make contact with the terminals. You can touch these terminals with your finger to verify they operate the thermostat. If so, it is working fine. The back of the face place has some material at the thee points that mates with those three male contacts. Check to insure they all appear clean and uniform...no grime build up on one that would interfere with or effect uniform applied force. When reattaching the face plate insure it is pushed flush to the thermostat body. When I reattached mine, at first it was not flush all the way around so that I had to push harder to reach the terminals. (You might want to verify "flushness" to start with....accidentally hitting the face plate could possibly cause a gap). Steve