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I agree that it would be nice to have diagrams for every model year, but that’s not the case. I’m lucky because my 2017 LE2 has a great manual, available in the Oliver University and after downloading it to my iCloud, it’s almost always accessible. I would suggest to anyone that didn’t get one with their Oliver delivery or hasn’t been able to get the information that is available in a model specific format, to go ahead a look at other model years because the information could be the same or similar enough to guide you through the problem or repair you are working on. If you have an original refrigerator that Oliver installed and it runs on propane, the schematic below from 2017 may be of interest. You can probably verify the propane line running from the propane box in front to the rear bumper by looking for the copper tubing below and outside of the trailer on the curb side. And if you have an outside access panel at the bottom of your refrigerator, the penetration of the gas line is probably visible coming through the floor. Mossey

Concur 100%. Don't EVEN mess with Mother Nature... We never leave the awning out if we're not within line of sight.

Doesn't she look pretty! It did not look like this when I pulled the head! It's hard to do this work without getting the wheel bearing grease here and there. So, take advantage of that. I pushed and rubbed the grease in every nook-n-cranny, every piece of plastic and metal and the grease removes the dirt and corrosion. Kept rubbing with clean paper towels and this is the end result. When I started this, there was a full 1/4" up-n-down play in the main shaft. By packing grease under the drive gear, there is now no play at all - hope this lasts! I need to mount the head and clean the main jack post. I'll get back in a day or two to show that. When the head is mounted, I'll spray a little Super Clean on the head, brush it some, and hose it off to remove any remaining grease.

The bushings were not worn, but have an odd loose fit, that you would not see in auto applications, like in a water or oil pump. The only worn part I observed was the motor drive gear. See the pic. The relay gear contacts this drive gear at the top portion. It appears the bottom of this gear has cut into the drive gear some, might be some of the noise and the only way to replace this would be to purchase a new motor. It's good enough for now.

If you have need for a sump pump, a 12V pump can be installed and two 6V batteries can be used in series or two 12V can be used in parallel, maintained with a battery trickle charger for when power is on or off.

We've just returned from a wonderful trip to the cooler climates of northern NM - Eagle Nest Lake State Park to be exact. As expected, the higher elevation of the Rockies produce predictable afternoon T-Storms. We received the typical on-again/off-again 25-30 minute rain every afternoon through mid-evening, FRI - SUN. Laying in the rack Friday night while listening to light and sometimes heavier squalls pass through the area, we hear a rather loud "BANG" - believe me, if I could hear it; it must have been loud! The sound was similar to an RV door slamming shut, but much louder. Grabbing the high-power LED hand-held and self-defense protection, I go out to carefully investigate.... All is cool in and about Casablanca, however, looking to the 5th Wheel nearby, it's clear the couple neglected to either "tip" their awning or retract it all together. Thought that this would go without saying, but leaving a level awning deployed after hours is asking for a Big Problem. The 20-foot canopy collect enough water during the evening to snap the drive-control rod freeing it at the forward edge, destroying the forward/rear support arms, and collapsing the awning. We had an interesting chat with the couple over some coffee in the morning. They're new to RV'ing and mentioned that the awning caper is just another example of "how they roll." Wow. There was no way the awning would be retracted with so much damage to the support arms, not to mention the broken control rod in order to get the rig back to TX. We explained they would need to remove both control arms and slide the awning from its track (about 15' off the ground). So, we offered to help since they had no tools or a ladder. We got them road-worthy after about 45 minutes of effort. But now what to do with the 20-foot awning roller? He decided to cut it into thirds with my hacksaw and drove it to a local landfill. The awning was salvageable, but they mentioned they've found one on Amazon along with a couple new control arms. Oh, well... at least there were no injuries! Pay attention to WX and Awning positioning, right? A & D

Anywhere, is my creed. Just don't be the person who loses the awning, because a sudden, unexpected storm kicks up.

I agree with @Mike and Carol, beware of sudden storms, anywhere. Always prudent to roll in awnings when leaving for the day, and at night. (Unless you really enjoy flashing night clothes in rain and wind.) We've seen dozens of flipped awnings over the years. Many, unrepairable. It's very sad. Don't let it be you. Roll that awning in. @MAX Burner, kind of you to help. They "might" have been able to salvage the fabric, by pulling it out of the slot. Not easy, and you were there, so you know. May have been/probably was stretched beyond limits, anyway. The "weatherman" has great job security, imo. Wrong half the time? No issue. Still broadcasting.

Same here. A manual awning offers simplicity and reliability.

For anyone with a Blackstone Griddle (17" or 22") -- I had an issue the other day: when I went to remove the 1-lb cylinder from the regulator (so I could drive down the road and not have it bouncing around) the brass tip of the regulator came OFF the regulator and stayed IN the cylinder. This meant that all the remaining propane came spewing out. No fun, and wasteful. The odd thing was that when I retrieved the brass tip (using needle-nose pliers, because the nut section was recessed into the well in the can) I didn't find any sort of gasket or see any residue of pipe dope, and I thought it was odd. I placed a ticket online with Blackstone hadn't heard back. My friend and I kept thinking that SURELY there would be a gasket in there; it's brass to some other gray-colored metal on the regulator. I had already searched Blackstone's website and manual for better information and photos or diagrams of that regulator. Then I decided to search online for other websites with photos -- Amazon, the ubiquitous search machine, provided a key photo that showed that end of the device and I could see a black gasket in there. THEN I remembered a black gasket I found near my truck, I pulled it out of my little 'lost and found' container... how about that! I called Blackstone's number to see if I could verify that there wasn't another gasket or pipe dope missing. Their phone service person kept referring to the brass tip as "broken" and saying that "this happens a lot and we just send you a replacement" and I kept trying to explain to her that it didn't "Break Off" it had merely come unscrewed (threaded same direction as the propane cylinder). She asked if I would send her photos, and I obliged and she exclaimed, "OH! I didn't know that piece was threaded because all I could see was that black thing." So for all the bad reviews and complaints on the regulators not working -- I have to wonder what percentage have this happen. I'm going to attach photos in case anyone runs into this. If a person didn't pay attention, the brass tip might be tossed with the spent cylinder. I'm still not certain whether it needs pipe dope or tape, and also not certain how tightly I should screw this down. I don't have a tool that fits OVER the tip and INTO the well (I checked) so needle-nose pliers are all I have to work with... thoughts and suggestions welcome.

Lol…we were also looking to downsize to a 23CB or 23 flying cloud with twin beds, but then we saw an Oliver on YouTube, we loved the “sterile” clean look, and of course when we saw one in person it was a no brainer. Have you looked at one in person? @SeaDawg maybe move this to an existing or new “Oliver wannabe” thread?

We use our manual awning all the time. I'd personally rather have a manual awning than power. It's so small (elite I) it's minutes to roll it up, or out. We also run on agm batteries, 2 x 105, so, we need to conserve power ,and a power awning wouldn't work for us, in that regard, since we rarely camp with hookups .

@rich.dev: 100% concur. After owning a 31- and then a 25-foot AS since 2007, there's no doubt the overall OTT quality is hands-down better.

Over the years, I've had too many USB style outlets fail, and of course USB specs change (now going to USB-C as standard.) So I use the simple 12V cigarette outlet, albeit a good quality one from Blue Sea, and then stick whatever style adapter needed into that. My external 12V outlets will be Andersen Power Pole style.

Hello Eric, welcome to the forum. Although there’s nothing inherently wrong with your idea, I don’t think Oliver would ever make the changes you suggested, but if you thought your idea would make your personal ownership experience better, there’s nothing to stop you from doing it yourself. Good Luck and keep thinking outside the box.

You should notice from the pics (previous post), that I took my rebuild another step and punched out the cross-pin that holds the main drive gear into the housing. The picture shows the punch, the pin, gear and housing. Note the hole, that you would drive a punch through to remove the pin The pin can be punched either direction, as both ends are tapered. I was worried at first, trying to eyeball the thinner side, not! John previously mentioned the black metal powder/shavings in the grease. Top of the gear was old and hard; bottom of the gear was soft, well used and rich of burnt metal.

I added the funky panel. 🤣 It is fed from the 12ga wire that used to go to the 12V cigarette outlet. Then it feeds the outlet, Sirocco fan, Alexa Echo Dot, and Pepwave router. It will later also feed the second fan and Apple TV. I ran the wires through the holes for the most direct route to the panel. Each has an insulation sleeve on it where it passes through the panel, and all are gathered in a bundle and wrapped in a wire wrap behind the panel. It is actually a much cleaner install behind there than any of Oliver’s jumble of wires. 😉

Also, and again, I'd say running max tire pressure, on paved normal roads, doesn't do much, good or harm. Getting off the pavement, especially on cr@p roads, running max tire pressure, at higher speeds, can be shown to be problematic, for ANY trailer. In a motorhome or a van, you feel the "earthquake " of a very rough road. But, the suspension is different. Much kinder ride in passenger/tow vehicles. Your Ollie is tagging along, on one point (the hitch), and you can't "feel" what's going on, inside the trailer. Frequent Rest stops may tell the story.

Sullivan Maine. Acadia seashore campground. Just beautiful

We just got back from a couple of months in Colorado. No matter what the weather forecast is, never leave your site with the awning out or go to bed with the awning out. Wind and storms can pop up any time, even if not forecasted! It’s a general rule for us that the awning is in when we’re gone or in bed. Same thing for west Texas and parts of AZ and NM. Mike

Nice work, John! Too bad that you couldn't find a 12V monitor, but I'm not sure they make such a thing. We've only had our trailer since March, and have used the TV maybe three times, and only for streaming. I added a cellular-embedded router and an Apple TV, so I don't need a "smart TV". A monitor would work except for when we eventually get somewhere without cellular service and I can use the omni-directional antenna for terrestrial TV. At some point I'd like to swap for a 12V TV, and then I'll convert the Apple TV to 12V, too. I've only used the inbuilt audio a couple of times, but it sounds like low-end car audio to me. I've used the TV's speaker when streaming. I did notice that the speaker over the closet booms a lot, using the entire closet as a speaker box. I'd imagine that a foam speaker cover over the back would do wonders for the mediocre sound. I'm using a Sonos Move for streaming audio, inside and out. It has almost too much bass for that big reflective interior. It's probably a good thing that my hearing isn't as discerning as it used to be... One of our better financial moves was subscribing to XM Radio back when they had a lifetime subscription for $485. We got two licenses in 2008, and have transferred them to each new vehicle, plus using the streaming app on the phone. As of now, we are at an average subscription cost of $2.69/month and dropping! (The router is still using the stub antennas, and not permanently mounted. I have an external antenna, but haven't yet convinced myself to drill a big hole in the roof!)

Paging @Katjo George, where in Michigan are you located? That'll help anyone looking to show theirs. Worst case; we are 25 miles west of Cleveland, and you'd be welcome to visit the Buckeye State for a look.

"I was warned before purchasing a trailer that there will always be problems." Yes, however the quality of the trailer's materials, design, and build process does matter in a big way. "Oliver Travel Trailers factory is not exactly easy to get to or even a smart idea as a service center for probably most of us who own one." Access to factory repair and local service centers is an industry-wide problem. So yes, Oliver or Airstream or whatever, ones diy capabilities and attitude also mean a lot.

I am selling my Winnebago Navion 24V and purchasing an Oliver. I have researched travel trailers extensively. I have chosen the Legacy Elite II. I have found the best for my value. I have never seen one I would very much appreciate someone in Michigan allow me to view their Oliver I do not need an extensive review I want to merely look inside and validate that the RV is compatible with my needs I appreciate any assistance I can have Very Respectfully, George Bergh

Nope vents are still in the battery door, the drop down table replaced the bottom vent for the “old” 3 way fridge

And it might be difficult to service them because the slide-out might take the entire width of the 'hall' in the E2. Also, I'd personally prefer to do service on a battery outside rather than inside my trailer.

I tried earlier today and they weren't open for business. So I called Mike and asked him for guidance with the issue. He suggested he'd call Riverwood and figure out what is going on, and get back to me and -- THANKS MIKE! -- Riverwood has a replacement Truma Water Heater being shipped out today or tomorrow. This is EXCELLENT news and I want to credit Mike and Oliver's care. Also, I will be posting a followup in my other thread regarding my solution to the Blackstone Griddle problem (it was easy to fix, but not obvious). Thank you to everyone here for all the help and encouragement. I'm hoping that by next week I'll be able to use my Oliver for boondocking, as I intended.

I agree.

No personal experience, but yours is not the first post on this forum recounting this type of run-around from Truma. That is why I own, and am not afraid to use, a combustible gas detector. If I encounter issues with the Truma tankless water heater in our Elite II that I can't diagnose or repair myself, my plan is to simply replace it with a Fogatti/Rec Pro, available from Amazon.

That's the way to go, IMO. The Anderson Power Pole system is pretty tough to beat - its "bombproof".

Welcome, we went from a 2016 AS 26RBT (twin beds) to a 2023 LEII. I absolutely loved the layout of the 26RBT, but I have to say the quality of the Oliver is much better!

@gbergh Hello, We are in Southeast Michigan and have a 2021 Elite II, twin bed model hull #732. We do participate in the program so if you contact Oliver tell them the Adams are willing and would be happy to show you their Oliver and they will set up a date.

I saw a Oliver going southbound on I-5 just North of Eugene around 3:15 in the afternoon. The TV was a Van. I didn't see a number on the back. I got so excited seeing a Oliver on the road, that wasn't following me in the rear view mirror. I waved as I passed, but I'm sure the guy thought I was another strange Oregonian

On the Oliver Trailer Owners Facebook page today, Edward Stroetz wrote that at this years rally, Jason T from OTT advised all the wheel nut torque should be 100 ft-lbs. I was not at the rally, and don’t know who Jason T is. Can anyone that attended the rally confirm? The 2023 manual online continues to show discrepancies.

@jd1923: We couldn't agree more with @Mike and Carol, FYI. We do a top/bottom, port/stbd, fore/aft cleaning inside and out after (and many times during) our trips. It's a good way to mentally keep track of gelcoat issues, general conditions and anomalies that our OTT's acquire after/during use. Like Mike mentions, such attention keeps our "older" Ollies looking and feeling like new.... You know you're doing it right when random comments by Ollie admirers say stuff like, "We can't believe your trailer isn't brand new!". Just say'n.... "Ravel'n On!" A & D

It’s nice to know that you are getting #113 back in to shape. Regular cleaning and maintenance goes a long way with an Oliver, some 2016’s still look and feel new. Mike

He’s kinda hard to find traditional ways, no dedicated FB page or website, but all over Oliver pages and at the factory. Tried to link to catalog, but old link.

Whew! That was a close one! Glad they stood by their promise...

The water was not as cold as I expected, the mosquitoes are annoying, no bears so far, a couple of moose and lots of icebergs.

@RivernerdThis is great news! We have a similar problem and will try your suggestion. Thanks, much appreciated! ~Tom~

Hokieman is correct in his statement that Oliver updated the 2023 Owners Manual to reflect the lower torque setting for wheel lug nuts. He pasted the new torque values from page 88 of the manual. However, page 89 of the manual states that when using the spare tire to replace a flat, the lug nuts should be torqued to 120 ft/lbs. It appears they haven’t updated ALL text related to the old high torque values. While all who have followed this thread understand this is an oversight, others may not and would be confused. We won’t receive our Ollie until mid-April 2023 so this change doesn’t impact us yet, but I have it on my checklist to verify lug nut torque on delivery day! Thank you all for your posts as this site has been invaluable to me. And thank you ScubaRX for offering to get this obsolete info to Matt. Jeff and Carolyn

This is a great point. Please go thru the manuals and note all the places this incorrect info shows up. Copy all the HTML links to those errors and send them to Matt at Oliver. He will take care of getting the manuals updated. If you need help getting your collected data to Matt, let me know and I will send it for you. Good idea, thanks.

Oooooo.. Just got to be some nice fish in that stream in CMSP, Oregon! Very nice! Bill

I don't think I've ever torqued a wheel on any vehicle that I've owned. Yes, I do own a torque wrench, but I've just get the wheel good and tight and then one more bump for good safety. I do use my torque wrench for torqueing nuts that are of smaller size and ones that I could be twisted off with too much pressure. I feel I have the mechanical knowledge and know when something is tight, it's that feeling you have when all is right, I know many don't have it, so you best use a torque wrench. trainman

This applies to earlier hull numbers, I am not sure when they stopped installing these Blue Sea marine breaker panels up there. This is a related thread: .... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5299-eliminating-phantom-electrical-loads-for-long-term-storage/ This is a VERY easy mod, just remove the screws holding the street side panel and rotate it around to where you can see the back side. At the upper right corner you will see the lighting connection, unplug the wire and secure it out of the way with a nylon tie. Label the unused connection so a future owner will know what it is. An anal owner could make a placard similar to this one (my hull has two extra loads added to the stereo wire): Now you have to turn on the overhead cabinet light if ambient lighting is dim. I am not sure why Oliver felt that it was necessary to connect this wire in the first place. John Davies Spokane WA

Ditto on the hood/fan comments. We do cook inside when the weather doesn’t cooperate and the fan does a fine job. we also drove over to the Casita factory before we ordered our Oliver. It was interesting but we found that Oliver’s have a more open and larger feel than the Casita.

We have had our Oliver for 30 months and it has not been completely smooth as we have had issues with heat in two locations where heat was critical - it was in the low 30's several nights. However the Oliver folks were helpful, you could talk to them and, eventually, the elusive issue was resolved. Or at least we hope so as we leave for Maine in two weeks! Yet we are very happy with the choice made to buy an Oliver over other brands. It is easy to tow, easy to clean, easy to park, easy to live with and in - and we are at 27,000 miles in the little one. Last weekend I went to an RV show here in Raleigh. I went because I thought I might get a portable surge protector on sale, I did not. But I walked in and out of 50/60 RVs and, other than one for $425,000 (anyone find me on gofundme:) there were very few we would even sleep in. And I cannot imagine what they would look like at the end of three years and thousands of miles. Yes, we are very glad we bought the Oliver. www.twolanetouring.com

I have owned stick-built trailers , Forest River popup, Trailmanor foldup, 2 x Casitas, and Oliver 23. I have not loss any sleep after buying the Oliver. It addresses all the deficiencies of the Casitas: larger beds, more storage, no rivets and more counter space. It is the most stable trailer i have owned. It will be the last RV I purchase. I use to vacuum the casita after each trip. Would find sawdust in floors from vibration.Tow with 2017 F250 gas. Definition of RV: always in a perpetual state of repair (thanks Dometic )

We were looking at Airstream for over a year, then found the Oliver web site, drove from Kansas City to the plant for a tour, and placed our order. Now when we look at the inside of any other fiberglass trailer, we know we made the right decision to go with Oliver. Stan

My only regret is that had I made better choices when I was 18, maybe I could afford something like an Earth Cruiser today. Our Ollie had an incredibly difficult birth, partly because we customized it so much, and party because Oliver was undergoing some difficult growing pains at the time. Despite that, having lived with the trailer for almost a year now, I can't imagine anything better matched for the way we travel. Except for that Earth Cruiser. In fact it's hard to believe it hasn't even been a year. Camping with the Ollie is so natural that it feels like we must have had it forever.