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Hello to the brand new LEII at Applebees in Union City TN on August 12, 2023. I’m the one that left the note on your TV. Good looking rig. Safe Travels.

Or, fortunately, for those of us who need some white noise to block out loud snorers. 😂

That note was a bright spot after a less than thrilling meal at Applebee's. We were on our way home after picking up our new trailer. The Oliver sure garners attention. We made it home fine after two days at Camp Hohenwald and a night at Piney campground in Dover, TN. It is part of the Land Between the Lakes in Tennessee and Kentucky.

Our youngest daughter is touring the NE States, and sent a text to say she saw Hull #641 in New Hampshire.

Our son in Durango sends pictures of Olivers driving through town…. Training the next generation! Mike

No experience with "X-chocks" but have been told that if you are sensitive to trailer movement these help. like SeaDawg I'm a fan of he Harbor Freight rubber chocks like THESE.

Hi I use a combination of two different kind of wheel chocks. I use Checkers wheel chocks for normal use and X-chocks when using Andersen levelers.

Given where the condensate comes from when its working properly - if you do the garden hose flush thing you risk spraying water into the interior of your Oliver and/or parts of your A/c that possibly you would not want to get wet. Bill

Haha very true and I feel your pain, I have to sleep with earbuds because of “a” loud snorer…..and it’s not me!😜

Heads up 22 and 23 YM Tundra owners… https://finance.yahoo.com/news/toyota-recalls-toyota-tundra-hybrid-185445370.html?soc_src=social-sh&soc_trk=ma Patriot🇺🇸

The truck was in its element. Perfect match. Got about 15 MPG pulling... Get about 19 normally.. I will hollar at you sometime. We are on high alert for trips so let me know if you guys are hitting some cool spots or if you come by my way. We are in Rector (NE) Arkansas.

We have a small group here this weekend, and celebrated a beautiful morning in the mountains with a campfire breakfast. Waffles with Blueberries, link sausages, and fruit.

We did two days at Camp Oliver. I think good documentation and practice are key to overcome info overload. I admit to being nervous risking damage when I don't have confidence in my actions, especially considering the cost of the Ollie. I wish the dump station at Camp Oliver was better. It is right on the street, and it does not have water. Our first dump was at the Piney campground in Tennessee. We found a bug, and a call to Oliver offered a work around. It is something I can repair myself once we get the part from Oliver. Two years from now the unfamiliarity will be nothing but a fond memory. Hanna is great BTW.

Especially when combined with the Level Mate Pro! I used the BAL leveler on our Hiker trailer, but it was a PITA to use. So I got an Anderson leveler, which worked great. If we wanted the trailer crossways on a site, we'd just rotate it by hand, and shove it onto the Anderson leveler until level. So when I ordered the Oliver, a new set was among the first things I ordered. I too have several of the Harbor Freight chocks.

Another option might be a series of trainings combined with a two day stay at the Oliver campground. The first walkthrough would happen at pick up time and take an hour or more. Then they could have smaller trainings at 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. on day one and day two of our campground stay. It would be easy for staff to walk over and easy to get the trailer into service if something needs a technician. I remember that no matter how much I tried to prepare with questions and checklists (and I was there for close to 3 hours with Hanna) it was just too much for my brain. It wasn't until I was at the Davy Crockett campground (and other campgrounds far away in the following days) that I really felt I could test out all the bells and whistles. That's when the questions and confusions really started piling up (and the calls to OTT for help).

The young lady that did our walk-through was very knowledgeable and thorough. It is an impossible task to retain enough to consider yourself informed. The paper manuals they provide are dated. I suggested Oliver use subject index cards and have the Oliver agent use the cards and let the customer do the button pushing. I used to train people on fairly complex tasks and having STEP by STEP instructions are crucial if one expects the user to really learn. Searching a bunch of soft file PDFs is not the answer. Neither is a bunch of short videos. I understand how keeping printed manuals updated would be onerous and expensive. I know the idea of index cards will not gain traction, so I guess I will open a million tickets. The people at Oliver are wonderful. They truly do care, but how training is conducted and measured is a management decision.

I've seen rhe Andersen levelers in action, and honestly, if I were new to towing and leveling, they'd be in the kit. I do think they're pretty awesome

Forgot - As for leveling blocks - it is hard to beat Andersen levelers but if you are looking for stabilizers to use under your 'stabilizers" then a eleven inch length of 6x6 treated lumber is hard to beat. You can use them on their sides or on the end depending on how much distance you are trying to cover. Bill

It would seem that you taught her well, congratulations! Mossey

I got this idea from a social media posting, but here's a quick mod that makes the "secret compartment" below the Pantry easier to access: 1. Pulled off VELCRO from cabinet. 2. Installed a couple 8" drawer slides from Amazon: 3. Replaced the VELCRO onto the drawer slides: 4. One and done, can't even tell the difference; except for the convenience factor - time for a cold one. Cheers! A & D

We just checked out the Craters of the Moon campground while on our motorcycle tour today! WE WILL be coming back soon with the Casablanca! This is a wonderful area...

That would be the snorer option. I just thought it was odd that the fan could not, or would not match the compressor.

There have been at least two Tuareg TDi owners here. @donthompson who moved onto a different trailer, and a fairly active current member, who I can't recall right now. Hopefully, they will chime in. The vast majority of members here use pickup trucks, and recommend 3/4 or 1 ton models. But there are several large SUV owners who have happily towed many thousands of miles with them. A shorter wheelbase makes an SUV easier to maneuver in tight spots, but also makes it less stable on the road. But remember, it isn't just towing weight, but the vehicle's load capacity that comes into play, too. Occupants, tongue weight, and junk all add up quickly. My towing weight is 2000 pounds less than a V8 Tundra, but my load capacity is actually more than some models. Even more so since I took out the rear seats.

The three (one thin, two thick) glossy manuals our closer gave us appeared to be Oliver produced manuals. The manuals were "Standard Equipment", "Optional Equipment" and the "Owner's Manual". They were info rich manuals. The indexing could be improved (there is no index). As time goes by the fact that the walk through was ineffective loses its sting. I do think Oliver should consider some method (kaizen, mission debrief, red team, etc.) of process improvement to improve the effectiveness of the walkthrough.

Open a service ticket. Oliver Service is very helpful with these kinds of issues.

Many of these manuals are not produced by Oliver but are supplied to Oliver along with the equipment that is installed. Certainly to the degree that these manuals are dated doesn't make the learning process any easier. Some of us learn by "doing", others by repetition, others by detailed explanation and others only by visual means, or by some various combinations of the multitude of learning methods. In my experience, the best teachers constantly search for a way of presenting the information to the student in whatever way works for the student. Yes, "how training is conducted and measured is a management decision" and at Oliver you get something other than the one hour "walk through" that seems to be the industry norm. No matter - drinking from a fire hose usually doesn't result in quenching thirst.

The factory shower rod is nice because it (curves around the side) covers two sides, the toilet side and the doorway side. We can leave the door open and no water hits the toilet area or gets out of the shower stall into the cabin. With the door open there is not as much steam moisture in that area.

Understood, I had the same dilemma and concerns with my install. The under-cabinet mount could impede access to the light switch, so care needs to be taken in positioning; although right-handed I find it easier, given the restricted switch access, to now reach in with the left hand, palm up, and turn the switch on with a fingertip. I became accustomed after a few times and this concern is no longer an issue. I was also concerned that a rod passing under the light would adversely affect the lighting, so to negate the issue a ‘clear’ acrylic rod and plastic rings were used; problem solved. It seems a rod installed under the cabinet door, an option you are considering, would further impede the lighting. I like that the curtain hugs the corner walls when tucked away and that it can easily be pulled over to cover the window for more privacy, as needed. In doing so, the bottom of the curtain fits behind the toilet well enough to not be in the way when seated, a concern I had if the rod was positioned further out. I don’t see much difference in the two mounting options you are considering with regards to draping the curtain over the towel rack and toilet when showering. Good luck with your endeavor.

@Steve Morris, I so rarely find the TV series, or movies, measure up to the books. I get it.

@Hull 812,,I would open a service ticket, and ask for advice. What troubleshooting have you done to lead you to the eyebrow board? What actually happens when you try to start your Norcold? Does it run on 110, but not gas? Neither? Battery level? Are you plugged into 110, or boondocking, running on gas? "Not working" doesn't really help us offer advice, though I know it's frustrating. We need a little more info, to offer even a little bit of advice. Have you checked the pigtail, if running on 110, to make sure it has not worked loose,? What shows on your display if anything? Any error code? Photos would definitely help.

Perhaps a better question would be - Will YOU be happy?

It is of interest, we are just trying to decide if we want the under-mount, like yours or the top mount just under the cabinet door. Thank you! Brian

For chocks, I'm a huge fan of the relatively cheap but very effective (and heavy) Harbor Freight rubber chocks, for all our trailers. No experience with x chocks, as we have a single axle 2008 E1. Jack blocks for us have always been lumber cutoffs, salvaged from projects. They're heavier to carry around than plastic, but stackable, biodegradable, and burnable, if necessary, at end of life.

Brian, let me know if my install is of interest.

Gonna add just a few more photos from this recent trip. These from a hike on the Continental Divide Trail, heading north toward Gunsight Pass. Wildflowers were abundant in the area.

Unfortunately you're correct!

I also ordered the Southco locking compression latches, 7L279, from Great Lakes Skipper. Just installed them with no issues. Just had to get new screws etc., as all you get is the locks and keys when you order. Sale price is still on. I'd say the big advantage is the key. No longer afraid that I might snap it off in the lock.

I’d read all of the books remotely related to Justified. Now that there’s a new series, it is apparently very roughly based on City Primeval. Raylan isn’t in the book at all. The FX folks just took another Elmore Leonard book and dropped Raylan in as the main character. It’ll be interesting. I’ve read about a dozen Elmore Leonard books over the years, and every one has been thoroughly enjoyable. @SeaDawgWe have AT&T, but our daughter has Hulu, so we borrow it now and then. 😉

My thoughts- Yes, I would trust but verify in writing that the pressure test was done. Just me. Patriot🇺🇸

Hi everyone, I just got the fresh jet installed at an RV place. Total cost was $1600. It is indeed very quiet and uses the existing ADC and thermostat and they are going to sell the old penguin for me. They take 10% which is totally reasonable and means I don’t have to haul it back home. It was 108 here and I’ve been outside all afternoon so I won’t do a decibel check just yet but I will at some point. But it works fine and it is indeed very quiet.

So, we went with the AirLift Kit. Spent most of yesterday afternoon installing a set of airbags on the Tundra... Researching Firestone, Torque, Rough Country, ReadyAir, and a couple others it came down to performance, stability ratings, guarantee, and price point. Firestone Ride-Rite and Air Lift Load Lifter 5000 were the toss-up. The various limited lifetime guarantees were mind numbing to sift through, but that said, the Air Lift seemed slightly better than most. The internal jounce in the Air Lift was comparable to (if not a bit beefy-er) than Firestone's. Price point - about the same. $450-ish. The Air Lift kit won the decision. We've done business with e-Trailer over the years and decided to stick with a known entity - slightly more $'s but worth it for the customer relations. Safety-chocked front wheels, floor-jacked the Tundra at rear differential, safety-jacked, removed rear wheels and prepped for the install at noon yesterday. 3+ hours later - done. Air Lift install procedures are 5 stars! Custom description and color photos for the 2022 Toyota installation - absolutely 100% correct and detailed in all regard. FYI, we assembled the port/starboard bag assemblies the afternoon before to prep for yesterdays drill. The factory jounce assembly is removed and no longer required when installing any air bag kit. It was interesting to discover that our factory jounce actually hit the top of the axle recently by observing that some of the road debris had been rubbed off by it! Hmmm... Once safety-jacked, (used frame points fore and aft of rear axle on both sides) with 2 jack stands on either side, lowered floor jack positioned under the rear diff to make enough room between frame/axle so air bag assemblies could be correctly positioned. Bolt-on procedures went smoothly without issue. The Air Lift Kit frame brackets were used to relocate hydraulic brake line mounts so as to keep them free yet stabilized which we thought was a brilliant feature. We liked the Schrader valve mounting position that another Forum member used which was the two upper license plate screw holes - but our truck's configuration couldn't accommodate that option. Decided to locate the individual port/stbd valves just above the license plate mount to be somewhat "out-of-sight" but still easily accessible for airbag inflation/deflation. Routed the 5-foot air lines from valves to the bags up and away from exhaust heat areas and cable-tied accordingly. Connected lines with "PEX-like" push-in fittings on top of airbags. We sprayed the air line connection at the bags with soapy water checking for leaks - no bubbles! Inflated each bag to 45psi after completing the installation as part of the leak-test process. Re-checked the system this morning - all good. Will be headed into town later today for a test ride - I'm thinking running the bags at 25psi for the first ride attempt. Will report back regarding ride "feel". Below pic shows truck bed height at 45psi, FYI: We are expecting better stability, less jouncing, and an overall longer lasting suspension. Realizing that air bags DO NOT change cargo capacity in any way, the benefits of airbags, such as eliminating "sag" and possibly better braking, should meet our driving/towing characteristics. Cheers!

My wife and I will be looking to get our degree! We plan to hit the wonderful state parks here in Arkansas first to get our RV legs. My wife loves the beach, and I love my wife, so Florida is on the horizon. From there we will follow the seasons.

Here's an added benefit to towing with my VW Touareg TDI. I drove from Iowa City to Cleveland yesterday to attend the Tri-C Jazz Festival. I averaged just under 70 mph (lots of construction in Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio) and averaged over 32 mpg. Filled with diesel fuel and drove 45 miles the day before on the full tank before leaving yesterday. I've now driven about 600 miles on that tank and still have almost a 1/4 tank of fuel. Of course, towing reduces the mileage but it's nice to have such a fuel efficient tow vehicle for every-day use. Now, if VW hadn't cheated on the emissions testing. . .

Our curbside drain line just stopped and the water is draining down the side of the trailer. As a quick fix onsite, can I simply direct a jet of water from a garden house nozzle up the tube from below to try to clear it?